Avoid Roller Marks When Painting A Ceiling

You can spruce up a plain ceiling with colorful paint.

Ceiling color can draw the eye up to interesting home architecture or lighting fixtures. Ceiling colorization is a nice aesthetic touch, but the painting process is strenuous. Painting a ceiling requires a lot of repeated ladder movement and uncomfortable overhead arm extension. It can be tempting to just roll paint on in the quickest manner possible, but this invariably leads to roller marks. If you want to avoid roller marks on a ceiling, you need to apply your paint in a specific fashion.

Instructions

1. Lay dropcloths on the floor to protect against accidental drips.

2. Place your A-frame ladder in a central location for parallel rolling. You'll likely need to reposition the ladder so it remains centered on whatever area of the ceiling you're painting. Resist the temptation to lean haphazardly off the ladder to save time; repositioning a ladder to a central location only takes a few minutes, and it provides a safer work environment. If your ceiling is low enough, you may be able to reach the ceiling with a simple roller extension pole, making the entire job easier.

3. Dip the roller into a roller pan or a bucket equipped with a roller screen.

Make Ceiling Fan Pulls

Handmade beaded ceiling fan pull

Ceiling fan pulls can be created from many different types of materials including beads, small toys, tassels, ceramic balls and decorative hardware. They all start with ceiling fan chain extensions that range from 6 to 12 inches and sometimes longer, depending on the height of the ceiling. Simple or detailed, these pulls are useful and functional.

Instructions

1. Purchase chain pull extensions in the length you need at a hardware or craft shop. These usually come in gold or silver (see Resources below).

2. Choose beads for this project based on theme, color and materials. Lay them side by side to measure up to 5 inches. If you incorporate children's charms or beads, mix and match colors and place the largest of the beads at the beginning to act as an anchor.

3. Fold the heavy gauge wire in half and slip one bead onto the bent end.

4. Use pliers to bend the two wires extending from either side of the bead together so they come together just above the first bead. Slip the remaining beads through the two wires together into the design desired. When finished, take the pliers and slip the exposed heavy gauge wires through the loop of the chain pull extension and wrap them around tightly to secure.

5. Create a smooth finish by cutting the tips off any wires that need to be removed.

6. Hook the latch end of the extension onto the bottom of the existing chain pull on the ceiling fan. It should snap into place to secure both chains.

Tags: chain pull, heavy gauge

Pier Mount Lighting Fixtures

About Pier Mount Lighting Fixtures

Pier mounted lighting is the latest thing in outdoor lighting fixtures. They come in styles that will fit any type of house - Victorian, Craftsman, Modern or Rustic Log Cabin. They make your outdoor space more pleasant and easier to use on a warm summer's night when you do not want to be driven indoors because your outdoor lighting is inadequate.

Types

Pier mounted lighting is usually made from materials such as wrought iron or cast aluminum. You can buy a complete unit - light, pole and base - or buy the parts separately, but it is advisable to purchase everything from the same manufacturer since parts from one may not fit into parts from another. You can also buy adapters for use with other types of outdoor lighting.

Features

One of the best features of pier mounted lights is that they are low voltage lights. They can be attached to a deck or patio directly instead of being attached to the side of the house. Pier mounted lighting fixtures are specially made to be out in the unprotected areas and are extremely durable and weather resistant. They will look like new for many years into the future.

Function

These fixtures are only for outdoor use. They are made for a patio or deck and made to cover a larger area. They can be installed at the same time as your deck is constructed, or can be added on later. If they are installed at the same time, the cords are able to be hidden in the posts and they look like a part of the deck, but if you have to add them later, it is perfectly OK. You just need to get creative about hiding the power source.

Significance

Pier mount lighting fixtures will not only save you money on your electric bill, but they will also improve the security around your home. Take a look at a light that is attached to the house. It doesn't cover nearly as much area as a pier mounted light would.

Identification

Make sure that the unit you purchase is certified to be able to be in a wet location. If you do not see the certification, pass it up. The width of the pole will be different than in regular outdoor lighting, so you need an adaptor if you want to use a regular light as a pier mount. But it is recommended that you use a complete pier light set.

Tags: outdoor lighting, mounted lighting, Pier mounted lighting, installed same, installed same time, lighting fixtures, look like

Wire A Westinghouse R10q Ballast

Always seal wire connections with electrical tape to prevent house fires.

As fluorescent lights are found in nearly every business, office and home, it makes sense to understand repair them when they break down. If your fluorescent light stops working, the first thing to do is check the bulbs. If, after replacing them, the light still doesn't work,or if the bulbs are dim and/or flickering, then the issue is probably with the ballast. The ballast is the small black box located inside the fixture that regulates the flow of electricity to the fixture's bulbs.The Westinghouse R10 ballast is a common model and is fairly easy to wire and install.

Instructions

1. Cut the power to the fixture. This can be done either by unplugging the fixture from an outlet, or switching off the circuit breaker found in the basement or utility closet.

2. Remove all accessories and light tubes from the fixture. The exact process depends the style fixture you are working on but it should not require anything more than the removal of some screws.

3. Open the fixtures casing. Most fixtures have a heat shield of casing covering the ballast and wiring. Undo the clips or screws to gain entry to the fixture's inner workings.

4. Locate and disconnect the Westinghouse R10 ballast. You will see a black box with four wires connecting it to the fixture. Use your wire cutters and cut the wires close to the ballast. Then remove the mounting screws holding the ballast in the fixture. Remove and discard the old ballast.

5. Strip the wires hanging from the fixture of one inch of their insulation. Use your wire strippers for this task. Then mount the new ballast in the fixtures using the mounting screws.

6. Twist the wires from the new ballast with the wires from the fixture, matching color to color. Red affixes to red, black to black, etc. Then cover each connection with some electrical tape. Finally, reassemble the fixture.

Tags: from fixture, electrical tape, mounting screws, Westinghouse ballast, wires from

Metal Ceilings

Metal ceilings add to your home or business because they stand out from traditional drywall ceilings, adding a decorative touch to your building. They also are long lasting. Hanging a metal ceiling typically requires about 8 to 10 hours of labor. The effort easily transforms a dull white ceiling into a colorful masterpiece.

Background

Metal ceilings were a common product between the late 1800s and the early 1900s because they were attractive, inexpensive and relatively simple to manufacture over and over again. Use of this type of ceiling was particularly widespread during the Victorian era between 1837 and 1901. Although metal ceilings usually were called tin ceilings, they really were made of steel that simply bore a coat of tin.

Cost and Options

Expect to pay anywhere from about $3 a square foot to $8 a square foot for a metal ceiling as of September 2011. These types of ceilings offer the advantage of being resistant to fire. Both powder-coated and bare metal ceilings are available for purchase.

The powder-coated metal ceiling version is intended to remain the color it comes in. Meanwhile, the bare version of a metal ceiling is created to receive paint. Also, a metal ceiling that has a small pattern that is repeated is more appropriate for a small-size room while larger patterns repeated in a metal ceiling go well with a larger room.

Putting the Ceiling in Place

When installing a metal ceiling, measuring the size of your existing ceiling is an important step to determine how many metal ceiling panels you need to install. Putting a substrate made of plywood on the existing ceiling is then necessary because a metal ceiling will not attach soundly to a drywall or plaster surface. For this reason, the dimensions of your plywood substrate also should match those of your ceiling.

Other Installation Information

Priming your metal ceiling panels is important if you wish to paint them in a red oxide, white or gray hue that matches those of historical metal ceilings. Otherwise, painting over the metal ceiling with a clear lacquer makes the ceiling shiny and outstanding while retaining its natural metal color.

An oil-based lacquer or paint is necessary to coat a metal ceiling effectively. Acid washing or faux finishing also adds to the decoration of a metal ceiling. Caulk additionally is helpful for covering over imperfections in the metal ceiling that occur during the installation process, and metal touch-up paint helps address blemishes in unpainted metal ceilings as well. In addition, a cornice serves as a decorative border around your metal ceiling and is the last part to be installed.

Tags: metal ceiling, metal ceilings, because they, ceiling panels, ceiling that

Install Recessed Spotlights On A Joist

Installing recessed spotlights can be a simple process with the right tools and the proper knowledge

Recessed spotlights can brighten up the room. They also add value to the house. Recessed spotlights give good lighting and an uncluttered look. Recessed spotlights are inexpensive to install because you are doing them yourself. There are a variety of recessed spotlights available from low voltage to line voltage. Installing recessed spotlights to a joist can be a simple process as long as you have the right tools and the proper know-how.

Instructions

1. Figure out where you are putting the lights. Use the stud finder to find the studs.

2. Turn the power off. Take the 110 wire and run it from the breaker box for the first light. Drill a hole through the ceiling by the main breaker box. Run the wire that you just put up through the hole in the ceiling from the main breaker box to the recessed spotlight. Use the drywall saw and cut a hole in the ceiling where you are putting the light.

3. Mount the junction box to the joist. Use the hammer and flat-head screwdriver to punch out one of the knockout holes. Run the wire from main breaker box to the light switch and run the same wire to the junction box. Cut and clean the wires with the wire cutters. Attach the black wire to the black wire, which is the positive wire. The white wire goes on the white wire, which is the negative wire.

4. Cover the wires with the wire nuts and tighten them down by turning them clockwise. Use the electrical tape to cover the wire nuts for safety reasons. Place the cover on the junction box. Turn the power back on.

5. Repeat all steps for any additional lights.

Tags: main breaker, black wire, from main, from main breaker, hole ceiling

Attach Lights To Ceilings

Attaching lights to a ceiling is something that, with care and instruction, even a beginning do-it-yourself homeowner can accomplish. Ceiling lights can attach flush-mount directly to the ceiling or hang from the ceiling as a chandelier.

Instructions

1. Turn off electricity in the room you plan to work. Test the line with a voltage tester to ensure no current remains in the line.

Turn off electricity from the fuse box. Your fuse box will be in the basement or fixed to the outside of the home. Open the box, and find the switch for the appropriate room. Depending on the fuse box, disable power by pulling the switch down or to the "Off" position. If the switches are not marked, you may need to experiment by flipping switches until you find the right one. Enlist the aid of a helper to make this task easier.

To test for a dead circuit, go inside, remove the screws holding the switch plate in place, and pull the switch box out from the wall. Place one probe from the tester on the ground wire and at the same time place the probe on the red or black hot wire. An indicator light will alert you to current remaining in the line. If current remains, turn off the main breaker switch on the fuse box, and disable all power to the house.

2. Bring wiring through and out of the electrical box. Use the wire stripper to peel 3/4 inch of insulated plastic covering from the ends of the wires.

3. Attach the mounting bracket, or mounting strap, by screwing it into the electrical box. A mounting strap attaches at both ends of the electrical box, and a threaded nipple runs through the middle.

4. Connect and secure wires. Attach the grounding wire (copper or green colored) to the mounting strap, wrap it around the green grounding screw on the mounting strap and tighten to secure. Connect remaining wires by matching wire color. To secure, twist them together, and secure with a wire nut. Wrap wires with electrical tape, and tuck them up into the electrical box.

5. Attach ceiling fixture. Place the fixture cover over the mounting strap nipple, and twist to tighten. Add a light bulb, turn electricity back on from the fuse box and test from the room light switch. For light bulb selection, check the manual on your light. If the manual is not available, a general rule is that the majority of ceiling fixtures can accept up to a 60-watt bulb. A higher wattage bulb could cause the insulation surrounding the wires to burn.

Tags: mounting strap, current remains, disable power, from fuse, fuse disable

Painting Ideas For A Harley Davidson Bedroom

Even those who are born to ride need a place to hang a helmet. Decorating with Harley Davidson accessories is easy, but deciding what to do with the walls can be difficult; there are so many options. Paint a mural, or use the Harley Davidson logo as inspiration.

Lime Green Walls

The Harley Davidson logo is orange, black and white. On the color wheel (used by decorators), high contrast is created by using opposite colors. Since black and white are already opposite, orange needs its contrast color: lime green. Combine a lime green faux brick wall with thick, solid black lines. The color scheme is energetic and clean, and can make a bedroom feel fresh and vibrant.

Logo Mural

Use a projector to enlarge an image of the Harley Davidson logo and shine it onto the wall. Trace the entire logo and then paint it in, using orange, black and white paint. If you're having a hard time keeping the lines straight, consider using painter's tape or touching up the lines up with a permanent marker. You can project several small logos to use as border or corner accents or one large logo for a centerpiece mural.

Harley Davidson Color Blocks

Use orange, black and white to create blocked patterns in the room. For example, a 6-8 inch solid black line can divide a wall that's painted orange on the bottom and white on top.

Another color-blocking paint scheme involves painting black and white stripes on the bottom half of the wall and orange on the top half. A shade of orange that's a bit more red than the logo color will look better than the bright orange in the logo.

Miles of Blacktop

If you know a muralist, or if you have the artistic skill to paint a mural, consider creating a wall filled with endless rolling green hills and a two-lane highway that disappears in the distance. Puffy white clouds and miles of blacktop make for a perfect day to hit the road.

Tags: Harley Davidson, black white, Davidson logo, Harley Davidson logo, orange black, orange black white, lime green

Diy Star Ceiling

DIY Star Ceiling

To create a star enhanced ceiling, first decide whether you desire just the sparkling visual effect or if you would like the stars to be laid out according to correct astronomy patterns that allow you to pick out actual constellations. Both results are possible; however the latter will limit your creative options.

Creating Constellations

To create constellations on your ceiling, first research the placement of actual constellations. Once you have determined a few constellation systems you would like to recreate, you can begin construction.

Since you will need complete creative control over each individual star, work with either glow-in-the-dark star ceiling stickers or glow-in-the-dark star paint.

To use stickers, first mark out the constellations on the ceiling in pencil. Firmly press the stickers into the desired formation. In lieu of sticking the stickers, connect the stickers to a piece of thread or fine string. Tack the strings into the ceiling. Now not only will your ceiling glow with starlight, the stars will have depth and be able to turn and spin.

Instead of the sticker stars, use glow-in-the-dark craft paint. Mark the ceiling in the formation of your selected constellations. Paint the stars in the special paint over your pencil marks.

A Sparkling Ceiling

If you are more concerned about having a twinkling ceiling than accuracy, consider using Christmas lights to gain this effect. String strands of the lights back and forth across the ceiling, securing to the ceiling carefully with a staple gun. Once the ceiling is covered, hang a large, dark blue sheer fabric over the ceiling and the lights. Secure the fabric to the ceiling at the corners and edges, but loosely so the fabric falls away from the lights and only touches the ceiling at the edges. The fabric should create a billowing effect. The lights viewed through this sheer fabric will give the impression of stars twinkling amidst the dark night sky.

If you are not concerned with having the stars sparkle with light, consider purchasing a blue or black fabric already decorated with sewn or embroidered stars. Tack the fabric across the ceiling to create the star-scape effect.

Tags: across ceiling, actual constellations, ceiling first, glow-in-the-dark star, sheer fabric, Star Ceiling, would like

Planked Ceiling Treatments

Planked Ceiling Treatments

Planked, or beadboard, ceilings can enhance any decor. They add visual interest to an area of the room that is, sadly, often neglected. They also accentuate country or seaside cottage design themes and lend casual elegance to any room. Whatever your design aesthetic, planked ceiling treatments can turn your simple ceilings into design features of any room.

About Planked Ceilings

Planks, or beadboard, are available in thin or wide styles. The usual measurements, regardless of plank style, are 5 to 6 inches wide and 48 to 84 inches long. Decor possibilities are endless, including painting or staining the planks. You can laminate the planks, and they are an environmentally conscious choice, because they are sometimes culled from architectural salvage.

Using Planked Ceilings to Complement Your Decor

Planked ceilings are usually found in post-and-beam homes, which lend themselves to country or cottage decor. Nothing says understated country like wide-planked ceilings in a creamy shade of white paint flanked by beams. Planked ceilings can work in any room, but they especially enhance the cozy aspects of a bedroom or family room. You can add extra country appeal by installing planks to the ceiling of a front porch.

Planked Ceilings as a Design Alternative

Planked ceilings can also amplify the beauty of a vaulted ceiling or any ceiling with interesting architectural details. Planked ceilings are a nice alternative to both normal drop ceilings (comprised of fiberglass panels) and traditional popcorn ceilings. Both make your home look dated and downright ordinary, whereas planked ceilings can enhance a room's beauty. However, do not allow the ceiling to conflict with the wall and floor treatments. The key is to enhance the room's beauty, not to have different design elements competing for attention.

Installing Planked Ceilings

Installing and maintaining your planked ceiling is easy for the average do-it-yourself enthusiast. It involves measuring and nailing the beadboard and requires a steady hand. Enhance the ceiling's beauty with either a flat or crown molding.

Tags: Planked ceilings, ceilings enhance, enhance room, enhance room beauty, planked ceiling, Planked Ceiling Treatments

Installing A Ceiling Fan In A Vaulted Ceiling

Electrical Box Installation

The circuit breaker is shut off before installing the wiring for the fan. Access to an attic is necessary for installing the fan's electrical box in most cases (otherwise, you will need to cut an additional hole into the drywall ceiling to access the backside of the electrical box). A section of the drywall/ ceiling is traced with a pencil to match the dimensions of the box brace where the fan's electrical box will be installed. A portion of the drywall/ ceiling is cut out with a utility knife (cutting along the lines of the penciled area of the ceiling). The excess ceiling is pushed or punched out, and then thrown away. A piece of sandpaper or utility knife is used to smooth out the rough edges of the hole in the ceiling. The fan's electric box is secured to the wood joists (located on the sides of the box brace) in the drywall/ceiling. On sloping ceilings, the part of the ceiling that is highest from the ground is cut out for the fan's electric box (to reduce the possibility of injury).

Fan Mount

A downrod fan mount is used for vaulted ceilings. Also, a reversible fan is required. The fan needs to be hung vertically, and at least two 2 feet above the head of a tall person (8 feet above the ground level is safest). A long pull chain will be implemented for higher ceiling fans. A short downrod is attached to a flush mount, and an extension rod is inserted into the downrod. The rods are secured together with a screwdriver.

Wiring the Fan

Wiring from the fan (the leads) are inserted up through the downrod. The downrod is mated directly to the fan. A canopy is slid down over the rod toward the fan. A sphere is suspended in the socket to simplify the wiring job. The home wiring is connected to the fan wire via wire nuts (see manual that comes with the ceiling fan for wiring plan specifications). The canopy is secured to the ceiling, and the fan blades attached to the fan. The power is then turned on and the fan is ready to work.

Tags: drywall ceiling, feet above, utility knife

Make A Star Ceiling

Many kids and adults enjoy the twinkling night sky, making a star ceiling a popular option for interior design. There are many different ways to create an indoor planetarium, which means you can find one to fit your personal taste and your talent as a do-it-yourself designer. From glow-in-the-dark stars to LED lights to metallic paint, you can use the medium that best matches your ability and your goal.

Instructions

1. Work with glow-in-the-dark stars to create your ceiling. Use a removable adhesive to hold stars in place on the ceiling. For a realistic look, consult a constellation map and consider placing stars in the correct formation to create your favorite section of the night sky. Use one constellation like the big dipper or Orion as the focal point of the ceiling and scattered the remaining stars around it.

2. Paint a star ceiling. Mixing clear paint with glow powder creates paint with a glow-in-the-dark effect, which you can use to outline your stars. Metallic paint works well as a base. You can paint five pointed stars and place them according to a star chart, or you can use a variety of round paint brushes to scattered dots across the ceiling. If you use dots, place a glow-in-the-dark dot so it overlaps the metallic dot.

3. Install LED lights to make a star ceiling. Suppliers sell kits that come with 150 LED fiber optic lights and the tools needed for installation. If you own the home and can access the ceiling from above, you can make the holes for the lights using a 1-mm drill bit. Insert the lights through the holes and spread the wiring out so it's flat. Connect the kit to your power source.

4. Make a panel to use as the base for your star ceiling. When you can't access your ceiling or you're renting, make a plywood panel to hang from the ceiling. The panel will require less drilling into the ceiling and will hide the wiring from view. Paint the panel the same color as the rest of the ceiling to create a seamless look. Use a drill and 1-mm drill bit to drill the holes in the plywood and then insert the lights into the holes. You can attach the panel to the ceiling using screws or nails.

5. Hang a star cloth from your ceiling. A star cloth is a section of black fabric with fiber optic lighting installed across its surface. The lights don't heat during use like other lighting sources, making it a safe option to use. You can secure the star cloth to your ceiling using a staple gun and staples or nails. To cover a larger area, you may need to purchase more than one star cloth.

Tags: star ceiling, star cloth, your ceiling, 1-mm drill, ceiling using

Minimize Streaking When Painting A Ceiling

If you've ever had to paint a ceiling, you know it can be a difficult and tedious process. Streaking can be a problem. However, with a few simple steps, you can have a ceiling that looks like it was done by a professional.

Instructions

Prep the Room

1. Remove all furniture and anything hanging on the walls. Furniture can be pulled away from the walls and covered with drop cloths, but be sure it's completely covered. A single splatter of paint can ruin your upholstery.

2. Wash the ceiling. Using a sponge or wet cloth and soap and water, wipe any dust, cobwebs or other dirt and grime off the surface. Removing dirt prevents streaking.

3. Wait for the ceiling to dry, then put painter's tape along the edges in the areas where the wall meets the ceiling.

4. Put up sheets of plastic to cover the walls, especially if you tend to be a messy painter.

Priming

5. Paint a cut-in line around the edge of the ceiling with the paintbrush, using a stain-blocking primer like Kilz to eliminate streaking. Your cut-in line should be two to three inches wide.

6. Prime your ceiling while the cut-in line is still wet. With an extension roller, use the primer to coat the entire ceiling. To get the best primer coverage, move the roller in a W motion and then even the coverage out with straight strokes.

7. Make sure the primer dries completely before painting.

Painting

8. Paint a cut-in line around the ceiling with the paint, using the second paintbrush. The cut-in line should be two to three inches wide.

9. Paint the ceiling while the cut-in line is still wet. Using an extension roller with a new, clean roller, coat the entire ceiling. You want to move the roller in a zigzag motion and then even the coverage out with straight strokes.

10. Examine your work. With the roller, go over any areas where the paint seems too thick. Allow the paint to dry completely.

Tags: cut-in line, areas where, ceiling while, ceiling while cut-in, ceiling with, coat entire

Retexture A Popcorn Ceiling

Popcorn ceilings have a unique texture that looks like there is popcorn affixed to the ceiling. If damage or age strikes and you need to retexture popcorn ceilings, plan to scrape away the existing popcorn ceiling and start over. It's virtually impossible to patch a popcorn ceiling because the color and the texture won't blend in properly. Popcorn ceiling retexturing is a messy project, so plan it for a weekend when you can move all of your furniture out of the room.

Instructions

1. Cover the walls and floor with tarps, dropcloths or plastic sheets, and secure the edges of the wall and floor coverings to the wall with masking tape. This helps protect your walls and floors from dust caused by removing the existing popcorn ceiling texture and from the texture you will apply later.

2. Scrape the existing popcorn texture from the ceiling. Using a large spackling knife is an easy way to tackle this project, although you can use anything with a thin, flat edge that is good for scraping. To avoid making a huge mess, have someone hold a trash bag under the area where you scrape so that the popcorn ceiling texture can fall into the trash bag instead of on your floor.

3. Fill any dents, holes or imperfections with spackling compound. The ceiling doesn't have to be perfect, but you do want it to look as smooth as possible so that your new popcorn ceiling texture applies evenly.

4. Apply one coat of primer to the ceiling. Let it dry for at least 4 hours.

5. Wear a paint suit, which will help you avoid getting popcorn ceiling texture all over your skin and hair. Put this on right before you start to mix the texture. A paint suit consists of a jumpsuit with long pants and long sleeves, a head sock, and safety glasses.

6. Add ceiling texture to a large bucket, and mix it according to the directions on the package. A paint mixer attachment on the end of a drill works great to mix the ceiling texture until it is the consistency of thick oatmeal.

7. Fill a hopper, which you can rent from your local home improvement store, with the ceiling texture, and turn it on.

8. Blow popcorn ceiling texture onto an old piece of cardboard first so that you can practice your aim and look at the way the texture blows out of the hopper before you apply it to your ceiling.

9. Spray a light layer of popcorn texture onto the ceiling, allow it to dry and then add another coat of texture if necessary. Spraying too much popcorn texture can cause it to drip off the ceiling, ruining the work that you did.

Tags: ceiling texture, popcorn ceiling texture, popcorn ceiling, existing popcorn, popcorn texture, existing popcorn ceiling, paint suit

Install Reinforced Fiberglass Panels

Walls must be flat and level before reinforced fiberglass panels are installed.

Reinforced fiberglass panels are used along the walls of hospitals, kitchens and bathrooms. These panels make it easy to wipe down the walls. The ease in cleaning reinforced fiberglass panels helps keep rooms sanitary and clean. Installing reinforced fiberglass panels is not difficult, and an average room can be fitted with the paneling in just a few hours. Learning to install the paneling will help you know get started on this project.

Instructions

1. Set the reinforced fiberglass panels in the room where they will be installed. Leave the panels in the room for two to three days so they can adjust to the climate in the room.

2. Prepare the walls for the panels. Check to see if there are any uneven areas on the wall. Level out uneven areas with a small amount of drywall mud and a trowel. Spread the mud over the walls until they are flat. Let the mud dry overnight.

3. Set the reinforced fiberglass paneling on the wall. Check the size of the paneling. Trim the paneling to size with a circular saw fitted with a carbide blade.

4. Apply paneling adhesive to the back of the cut panel with a notched trowel. Spread the adhesive over the entire surface of the back of the wall in a crosshatch pattern.

5. Set the reinforced fiberglass panel in place on the wall. Use a laminate roller to roll over the surface of the panels. The roller will ensure that the adhesive sticks to both the wall and the panel. Rolling over the paneling will also ensure that you eliminate any air bubbles from behind the panels.

6. Continue installing the reinforced panels. Leave approximately 1/8 space between each of the panels to allow for expansion and contraction.

7. Install divider and cap molding on the top edge of the panels. Cut the moldings to size on a miter saw and apply silicone caulk along the back of each molding before setting them in place at the top and sides of the panels.

Tags: fiberglass panels, reinforced fiberglass panels, reinforced fiberglass, ensure that, fitted with

Replace A Fluorescent Ceiling Light In My Kitchen

Fluorescent lights have stylish diffuser panels to enhance your decor.

Replacing a fluorescent ceiling light in your home is not a difficult job, but the task does require respect for electricity and attention to detail. You should be prepared to record the colors and position of the wires in the existing fixture as you dismantle it in preparation for the installation of a new fixture. Your new fixture may or may not be the exact size of the one you are replacing. Be prepared to mount your new fixture using new drill holes and hardware.

Instructions

Removing the Existing Fixture

1. Turn on the light. Have a helper flip switches or remove fuses at your electrical box one by one until the light goes off, showing that you've cut the power to the light.

2. Remove the diffuser panel that covers the bulbs within your existing light fixture. Remove the fluorescent tubes or bulbs.

3. Remove the ballast cover that is covering the wiring. Record on your notepad how the wires are connected. Make special note of the color of the wire connectors as you remove their black and white caps.

4. Test the wires with your circuit tester to confirm that the power is off. Separate the wires from the fixture and remove the base of the light from the ceiling.

Putting Up Your New Fluorescent Light Fixture

5. Remove the fixture from its packing box. If they are attached, separate the ballast cover from the base of your new unit. Punch out the center section and pull the ceiling wires through the base.

6. Position the fixture base on the ceiling and use your pencil to mark the position of the holes that will take the mounting hardware.

7. Take the fixture down. Put on your safety glasses and drill mounting holes at your pencil marks. If your drill hits a wooden joist, you will need to use wood screws to attach your fixture. If your drill goes through the drywall with little resistance, you will need to use toggle bolts.

8. Hold the base of the fixture in place. Have a helper hold the base as you pull the wires through the center knockout. Attach the base to the ceiling using your screwdriver to tighten either your toggle bolts or wood screws.

9. Connect the wires black to black and white to white according to your notes. If necessary for a solid connection, strip new wire up from the old using your wire stripper. Screw the black cap over the black wires and the white cap over the white. Attach the bare ground wire to the base using your needle nose pliers to bend and secure the wire. Attach the ballast cover, install the tubes or bulbs and attach the diffuser cover. Replace the fuse or flip the breaker at the circuit box to restore power to your new light.

Tags: ballast cover, using your, base ceiling, black white, Have helper, that power, toggle bolts

Under Deck Storage Diy

Under-deck storage is a good way to get the most out of the space you have available at your home. From a simple place to keep the lawnmower and yard tools readily available to a place out of the sun for pool testing supplies and cleaning equipment, you can even go all out with a completely enclosed secure storage area. So, according to your taste, if the space fits build it.

Getting to Know Your Space

Getting to know your space is the best way to get started on your under-deck storage project. After measuring your space to see what kind of area and volume you are dealing with, decide what you want to store. If you're just interested in getting some belongings out of the sun and straightening up your property a little, then a simple area is all you need. Just cover the outside of your existing support beams with some lattice or some six-foot privacy fence sections and store your belongings behind it. However, if you're looking to store items that need to be kept out of the weather and reasonably secure, then you may want to consider building an enclosed unit under your deck that can be securely locked.

Keeping Things Dry

When storing things under a deck, the deck is transformed from a floor to the ceiling of your storage space, so when it rains your storage items are subjected to getting rained on. There are many ways to keep the water out of the area. You can go with a simple plan such as attaching a tarp, heavy duty plastic or corrugated plastic panel to the existing rafters. If you have the room, you could build a frame under your deck with a slight pitch at the top and cover it with corrugated plastic panels to catch the water and direct it away from your storage area. Some manufacturers have started making kits that are designed to completely wrap the bottom of the deck leaving your area not only dry but also with a smooth, finished look on the bottom.

Fully Enclosed Under-Deck Storage Areas

An enclosed storage area can range from the simple covering of the existing deck supports and rafters with plywood sheeting and adding a door all the way to finishing the walls with drywall boards and adding power for a light. Storage is improving all of the time; there are now places that manufacture free-standing storage containers in a variety of shapes and sizes. In essence, if you had the money and space, your under-deck storage project could be as easy as measuring for size and having a storage container delivered and slid into place.

Tags: storage area, your storage, your under-deck storage, corrugated plastic, storage project, under your, under your deck

Copper & Tin Wall Decor

Copper is fashioned home decorating accent pieces.

Archaeological discoveries from 8000 B.C. show that copper is one of the oldest and most used metals. Copper dates back to the Hittite Empire of Central Turkey as early as the Bronze Age. Considered a symbol of wealth and prestige, copper tiles, wall hanging and decor items were fashioned to evidence the homeowner's status. Tin wall tiles gained popularity as and inexpensive method of duplicating the elaborate carved plaster ceilings and wall panels of Europe. Bring the warm metallic tones of copper and tin into your home with the addition of eye-appealing wall decor.

Modern Wall Sculptures

Metal relief tiles are used as decor accents.

Copper and tin is crafted to create a wide variety of modern metal wall artwork. Magnificent abstract sculptures to adorn the lobbies of corporate offices, hotels, night clubs and restaurants have been produced by artisans around the world. Smaller pieces of metal art are often used in home decorating. Wall sculptures are created by folding, grinding, cutting, embossing, hammering, bending, folding and crinkling copper or tin to achieve the desired affect. Colorization is the result of applying patinas, transparent metal dyes and heat.

Antique Copper & Tin Tiles

Pressed metal ceiling panels and wall tiles have been utilized as home decorating accents for centuries. Tin tiles were widely used in both commercial and residential applications during the 1800s. Elegant tin wall tiles and ornaments are available in Victorian, turn of the century styles or art deco styles with copper, brass or chrome accents.

Tiles are used to protect high traffic areas from damage, or used as back splash behind sinks and vanities. Modern day replica tiles are available from home building supply stores or interior decorating firms. Tiles can be powder coated or dyed to achieve any desired colorization. Cornices (crown moldings), girder nosing or flat moldings is available in matching metal. Antique tin tiles add rich historical detail to home renovations.

Copper & Tin Accents

To provide a warm, reflective glow, decorative copper panels are used as accents to wood paneling or plaster wall treatments. Copper strips are adhered to the wall with mounting screws or adhesive as corner protectors. Copper sheeting can be incorporated in to bathroom walls or shower enclosures to add elegance and architectural detail.

Tin Tiles Add A Touch Of Elegance

Molded or stamped tin tiles, used as wall coverings or accents add metallic beauty to both older and modern homes. Antique stamped tin tiles are used to create beautiful picture and mirror frames.

Cups & Spoons

Tin Cups are useful antique accents.

Add country charm with a wall mounted copper pot rack and copper pots. Hang antique copper food molds as wall decorations in the kitchen or dinning area. Antique copper spoons, tin cups and tin pails provide historical character when used as wall hanging.

Tags: home decorating, wall tiles, achieve desired, have been, stamped tiles

Hang Recess Lighting

If you want to change a room's look without buying new furniture or carpet, or if you want to accent a part of a room, you can change the lighting. Recessed ceiling lights come in two styles: eyeball lights can be turned to accent a piece of art, or "down" lights can light an area with light pointed downward only. Both offer a clean look and won't clutter your ceiling like track lighting, and they can be installed with a bit of effort in a single afternoon.

Instructions

1. Run the wiring for the light in your attic or walls and ceiling. If you are replacing an existing light, you may disconnect the wiring from that light and move it to the recessed light after you have mounted the recessed light.

2. Mark the location for the light with your pencil. Hold the housing of the light up to the location and trace a ring around the outside of the housing. Drill a hole in the wallboard, then use a jigsaw or keyhole saw to cut the hole for the body of the light.

3. Push the recessed light up into the hole until the frame brackets are inside the opening. The frame brackets should be flush with the bottom of the wood framing--the ceiling joists--in the ceiling. Use your hammer to pound the metal teeth on the light's supporting arms into the wood of the joists.

4. Fasten the trim ring to the face of the light with the small metal clips that are included with the light kit.

Tags: recessed light, frame brackets, light with, with light

Ceiling Tile

About Ceiling Tile

Ceiling tiles are gaining in popularity as a finish of choice for homeowners and commercial builders alike. These tiles range from 12 by 12 inches to 2 by 4 feet in size and from blandly utilitarian to stunningly elegant. Ceiling tiles are inexpensive to purchase, easy to install and replace and allow easy access to the space above.

History

Although they are currently experiencing a resurgence in popularity ceiling tiles are nothing new. Tin ceiling tiles date back the mid-1800's as homeowners began looking for a less expensive method of decorating their ceilings than the costly plaster ceiling decor that was popular with the European upper class. Tin was used in the 19th century because it was cheap, lightweight and could be easily stamped or embossed to provide ceiling decorations that were unique and attractive.

Significance

Ceiling tiles allowed the burgeoning 19th century middle class with a means of emulating the elegance of a sculpted ceiling without the expense. They also provided an inexpensive means of covering damaged ceilings or unsightly plaster jobs. Occasionally they were used to conceal major structural problems. The tin ceiling tiles had the added advantage of providing a fire break for upper stories of buildings because of their natural resistance to fire.

Types

By the outset of the 20th century tin ceiling tiles began to decline in popularity. Many homeowners plastered or wall boarded over their existing tin ceiling tiles. During the latter half of the 1900's ceiling tiles were once again in vogue, but instead of tin, the acoustic tile suspended from a drop ceiling grid became the standard. These ceiling tile systems were especially popular in large commercial buildings as they provided easy access to electrical wiring, lighting and heating and air conditioning duct work.

Benefits

Ceiling tiles are popular and practical for both commercial and residential applications. Acoustic ceiling tiles on drop grid systems dampen sound, are easy to install and replace, are inexpensive, and require little maintenance. Decorative ceiling tiles now come in a variety of materials including tin, aluminum, and man-made materials. Many can be painted to match the decor of the room. New interlocking designs do not require a grid system and can be installed directly over sheet rock or plaster ceilings.

Warning

Older ceiling tiles were often made using Asbestos. Breathing asbestos particles has been determined to cause a variety of illnesses including cancer and mesothelioma, a disease which attacks the organ tissues and is frequently fatal. If you will occupy a building constructed before the late 1970s have the ceiling tiles checked for Asbestos. If it is found contact a qualified contractor to properly remove and dispose of them.

Tags: ceiling tiles, ceiling tiles, ceiling tiles, 19th century, ceiling tiles were

Drywall A Dome

Building a frame is the difficult part when drywalling a dome ceiling, but you can buy kits containing prefabricated, curved studs. Applying triangular strips of drywall to the studs is not as difficult as you might think. By following a few basic steps, you should be able to finish a dome with a smooth, attractive drywall interior.

Drywall Size

For smaller domes with tight curves, 1/4-inch flex gypsum drywall is best. You can use up to 1/2-inch gypsum for larger curves, but you have to spray water on the compression side of the panel. Soak the drywall strips one hour before you apply them to the dome frame. Spray about 30 ounces of water on a standard 4-by-8-foot panel of nonflex 1/4-inch drywall. Spray 35 ounces of water on a 3/8-inch panel and 45 ounces on a 1/2-inch panel. When you complete the installation, let the interior dry for one day before you finish the surface. You can cut the triangular pieces needed to cover the interior of most domes from standard 4-by-8-foot drywall sheets. If you have a larger dome, 54-inch-wide sheets are available.

Preparing to Install

Apply drywall over the bottom of the dome and use a drywall router or cut-out tool to cut around the circular base. Take measurements in identical intervals along the center of two adjoining, curving studs. Use these measurements to make a triangular pattern for strips of drywall that, fitted together, will cover the interior of the dome. If you have a small dome, one strip might reach from the base to the top of the dome. If you are working with a large dome, each triangle might require two pieces of drywall applied end to end.

Applying Drywall Strips

Use the pattern to cut the triangular strips. Flex the strips of drywall to make sure they will curve without cracking or breaking. Screw the strips into place side by side on the curved studs, working your way around the dome. The screws should be no more than six inches apart in the center of the studs.

Finishing the Interior

You might have a vertical ring at the base of your dome. Cover this ring with rectangular strips of drywall. Since these strips curve around the circular base, they should be 1/4-inch flex drywall, or larger drywall that has been soaked. When you're finished, apply drywall tape over the joints and cover with joint compound. Let the compound dry for one day, then sand until smooth.

Tags: strips drywall, 4-inch flex, around circular, around circular base, circular base

Install A Popcorn Texture Ceiling

Ceiling Texture

Installing a popcorn texture ceiling is quite easy although a bit tiring for your arms. Popcorn texture allows homes to be personalized according to the home owner’s individuality. You can do patterns such as swirls or you can apply the texture evenly. If you feel uncomfortable taking this on alone, bring some friends over and make a party out of it.

Finish Drywall Ceiling Textures With A Mud Swirl

You can use drywall mud for various home projects.

When it comes to finishing your ceiling, you have a few options. One popular option is to hang drywall. Drywall, or gypsum wall board, often called Sheetrock, is easy to maintain and easy to clean if it's been finished properly. However, it might not offer the best look for your home's decor. If you're not happy with the look of your newly hung drywall ceilings, you can help improve the appearance by finishing the ceiling with a swirling texture, which will hide imperfections. Create a swirl texture on your ceiling using drywall mud.

Instructions

1. Add water to the drywall mud to get it nice and creamy. The consistency you're going for should be easy to work with but not runny.

2. Dip a stiff brush into the drywall mud and start making practice swirls on a piece of scrap drywall. The swirls can be simple arches or circles. They can be random or a repeating pattern. You can stagger each row of swirls or place each swirl directly on top of another. You can overlap rows a little, a lot or not at all. Keep practicing until you get the look you want.

3. Mark the midpoint on your ceiling with a pencil. Measure outward from that mark to each wall and determine approximately how many swirls will fit in each of the first rows. If it's helpful, you can mark the approximate end of each swirl on the ceiling and rely the marks as you create the swirls to ensure you get all the swirls the same size.

4. Put some drywall mud on the stiff brush again and start making swirls from the middle of your ceiling all the way to one wall. Pull your brush away quickly after each circular motion so create a wispy effect. Continue with these rows until you have a "+" pattern on the ceiling from the middle of the ceiling to each wall.

5. Keep adding rows of the swirl pattern, moving from the middle of the ceiling to the outer wall. If you make a mistake, remove the drywall mud with a flat trowel immediately and start the swirl again.

Tags: your ceiling, from middle, ceiling with, each swirl, each wall, from middle ceiling, look your

The Best Way To Paint High Ceilings

If a ceiling is higher than 10 feet, painting may be tricky using standard techniques. You can paint a ceiling by standing on the floor using a roller with an extension attached or with a ladder or scaffold. Keep in mind, using a roller extension gives less control over paint application but saves time and the logistical hassles of renting, buying or assembling ladders or scaffold.

Methods

Using a roller pole extension will add about 5 to 12 feet in height. Brush attachments eliminate constant ladder climbing and scaffold use. Pivot tools and adjustable poles, while more expensive, can save time. If adding the maximum 12-foot pole is not enough, use an extension ladder or scaffold. While scaffolding may be improvised with ladders and wood planks, it can be dangerous and cause serious injury if the materials move or break. Consider using a spray gun or hire a professional if the roller and brush technique is physically impractical.

Preparation

Wipe the ceiling with a dust mop wrapped in an old cotton rag or T-shirt. For a textured surface try a clean brush with light bristles or a compressed air machine. Eliminate all cobwebs. Remove or cover ceiling fixtures, window treatments, wall decorations and furniture.

If the walls will be painted the same color, do the ceiling first. Don't tape or cover the walls if they will be painted soon, regardless of color. Otherwise, run painter's tape along the top wall edges as precisely as possible. Affix light plastic sheeting to the walls using painter's tape if the walls will not be painted. Cover the floor with canvas or plastic. Newspaper will leave black marks on the floor if it gets stepped on or wet.

Getting Started

Whether standing on the floor or using a scaffold, begin painting in the corner opposite the door. Try to complete the project without any lengthy breaks in between to prevent obvious color changes in overlapping sections. Paint the ceiling edges around the room first with a 3- to 4-inch wide trim brush, dipping it from the can or poured into a roller tray. Refill the brush as paint becomes thin in application.

Dip the roller in the tray, coating evenly with paint. Starting in the same corner as before, move across the ceiling with the roller using a back and forth motion. Cover all areas evenly and replenish paint on the roller as needed.

Precautions

Paint will splatter. Use protection. Wear safety glasses to prevent paint in the eyes. Use a hat or skullcap to protect hair. Most latex paint will wash out fairly easily, but textured paint and enamel will not. Use a mask. The smell of fresh paint can be overpowering and may cause dizziness.

Tags: will painted, ceiling with, floor using, ladder scaffold, painter tape

Replace A Ceiling Fan Pull Chain Switch

Ceiling Fan With Lighting Assembly

Ceiling fans help conserve electricity in the summertime by reducing your dependency on air conditioning -- and with a lighting kit attached, they can fill up a room with bright light, especially when using compact fluorescent bulbs. Over time, however, the pull chain that controls the lights on the ceiling fan may begin to break down, resulting in lights that won't turn off or on. In this case, replace the pull chain switch and keep using your existing fan.

Instructions

1. Turn off the power to the ceiling fan. If your fan is powered by a wall switch, turning off the switch will suffice, but if fed directly, then you will have to find the breaker that controls that circuit.

2. Take out all the bulbs and glass shades from the lighting assembly. This will help lighten the weight of the lighting assembly.

3. Remove the screws securing the lighting canopy to the body of the fan.

4. Locate the pull chain switch that controls the lighting assembly. Use your touch-type voltage tester to ensure that the power is off. The pull chain for the lights is usually the one located near the bottom of the fan, closer to the actual lights. The pull chain that controls the fan is located closer to the blades.

5. If you have a pull chain dangle, remove it from the chain. Where the pull chain exits the body of the fan, you will notice a screw-on cap which has the chain coming out of it. Unscrew and remove the cap. This will release the pull chain switch from the body of the fan.

6. Remove the wire connectors from the wires attached to the switch and take the old switch in to the store with you when finding a replacement. Note the model of your fan and the number and colors of your connecting wires to help find the correct replacement chain and switch.

7. Take your new pull chain switch and connect the corresponding wires from it with the ones you disconnected from the previous switch. Secure the wires with wire connectors and wrap a strip of electrical tape around the connectors where they meet the wire.

8. If the new switch has the cap already on it, remove it. Then, insert the chain and the threaded nipple into the hole where the previous switch was installed. Slide the cap over the chain and screw it onto the threaded nipple to hold the pull chain switch in place.

9. Gently push all of the wires back into the box and resecure the light assembly with the screws you removed in step 3. Make sure no wires are hanging out of the box when you secure the light kit to the fan body.

10. Reinstall the glass shades, light bulbs and pull chain dangle.

11. Turn the power back on to the fan and give the pull chain a tug.

Tags: pull chain, chain switch, pull chain switch, that controls, pull chain, chain dangle, chain that

Install Textured Ceiling

A textured ceiling consists of drywall or joint compound that is applied to the ceiling and shaped with tools. The compound is applied using tools rented or purchased from home centers or lumber yards and may yield a professional-looking result even for amateur do-it-yourselfers. A textured ceiling is a good alternative to a smooth-finished ceiling, as the textured surface may hide minor flaws in the current ceiling.

Instructions

1. Mask off windows, walls or any other items that you do not want to get the texture compound on, using newspapers and masking tape. Do not mask walls if they will be painted later.

2. Mix the dry ingredients of the texture compound with water according to the directions on the bag. Let the mixture set up for the proper amount of time advised in the directions before you begin. Skip this step if you are using a premixed compound.

3. Pour the compound mixture into the plastic hopper of a texture sprayer. Set the pressure on the sprayer according to the directions that came with the machine. Plug the sprayer into a wall outlet and turn it on.

4. Hold the sprayer 12 to 18 inches away from the ceiling and depress the trigger on the handle. Move the sprayer in long, sweeping motions to apply compound evenly across the ceiling. Continue until the entire ceiling has an even coat of the texture compound.

5. Flatten out the joint compound applied to the ceiling using a knockdown tool, which is available at drywall supply stores. Drag the rubber edge of the tool across the ceiling evenly from one end to the other. Repeat until the entire ceiling has been covered with the tool.

6. Scrape any splattered compound from the walls --- if you did not mask earlier --- with a 12-inch flat drywall knife while the compound is still wet. Use a smaller 6-inch knife with a sharp edge to get close to the ceiling.

7. Allow the compound to cure for the time specified in the directions on the compound container. Paint the ceiling, if desired.

Tags: texture compound, according directions, across ceiling, applied ceiling, compound applied, entire ceiling

Replace A Ceiling Fan Switch

When you replace the switch it is as simple as unscrewing and screwing on the wires. Replacing is fast and simple following the proper steps. You can replace the ceiling fan switch with a dimmer, or regular switch; wiring is the same for both.

Instructions

1. Turn off the main electrical switch.

2. Remove the face plate from the switch.

3. Unscrew the switch by unscrewing both screws. Pull it toward you.

4. Unscrew the screws on the sides of the switch and remove the wires.

5. Screw the wires onto the new switch, and then screw the switch back into the conduit box. Put on the face plate.

6. Turn on the electricity and test your handiwork.

Tags: face plate

Install A Suspended Ceiling

a new installed ceiling that can be accomplished quite easily

One can install a suspended ceiling with a few tools maybe some help and a little mechanical ability

Instructions

1. First get a measurement of the room ( this is square footage) you determine this by multiplying legnth x width.

You will also need to measure linear feet for the corner edging This usually comes in 12 foot legths but can be cut

2. Measure how high you want the ceiling ( standard ceilings are 7 foot 6 inches but could go as low as 7 foot 2 inches) should not be lower as the door opening is 6 foot 8 inches

3. Install all the corner edging on the wall, make sure it is level and at the same height all the way around the room.

Now install the hooks into the ceiling joists with a hammer.

you will want to place theese hooks @ 2 foot intervals away from the wall and approximately every 4 foot apart

4. Install all the cross beam tracking level each peice and secure with wire coming from the hooks You will have to cut the wire yourself as it comes in a roll of up to 100 ft

5. Install all your full pieces of tile and them make your cuts with a straight edge and a knife

Tags: foot inches, corner edging

Close Off The Circular Vents In The Ceiling

Air vents help control and direct interior airflow from your HVAC ducts into the rooms of your home. Most homes have rectangular register vents with louvered grilles. Some homes, however, as well as some offices and spaces that use primarily air conditioning, use circular ceiling venting. Circular vents are known as diffusers because they expel air in a 360-degree pattern, generating better circulation throughout a room and reducing drafts. Some diffusers have dampers that allow the user to control airflow from the duct. Without an adjustable damper, you won't be able to close off the vents without improvising a makeshift solution or retrofitting damped units.

Instructions

1. Set a step stool under the circular vent. Look for either a dial or a small hex hole in the center of the circular vent. If your circular vent does not have a dial or a hex hole, it does not have dampers to close the vent.

2. Rotate the dial clockwise with your fingers if your vent uses a dial. The damper on this type of vent only closes or opens; it does not allow partial opening.

3. Insert a hex key into the hex hole, if your circular vent has the hex hole. Rotate the hex key clockwise to close the butterfly damper. This type of damper does allow for partial closing.

Tags: circular vent, airflow from, allow partial, does allow, does allow partial

1920s Outside Light Fixtures

The decade of the1920s was a transitional period for lighting.

During the days of Prohibition and F. Scott Fitzgerald, lighting was undergoing a transition from the Victorian era into the modern industrial era. Both traditional lighting fixtures powered by gas and new electric lights coexisted during the period. Adding to this was the transition from artistic opulence towards a more natural simple design. Manufacturer's such as Tiffany and Stimple were competing with newcomers such as General Electric.

Gas and Electric

Outdoor lighting of the 1920s utilized natural gas flame or electricity, depending on individual taste. Electricity was a new option and yet to be proven as a reliable power source for lighting.

Transition

During the 1920s light fixtures were transitioning from gas powered to electricity. Many lights supported the use of both gas and electric power. Victorian era gas lighting was being phased out especially in exterior lighting fixtures. Electric wiring used in chandeliers, chain-hung lights and wall sconces had protective cloth covering.

Styles

Two distinct styles were used in this period - the Craftsman and Georgian Revival styles. The Craftsman style was also known as the Mission style. The Georgian style acquired the name Art Glass because of its decorative tones of color. Today you can find both styles still in use on older homes as well as in antique shops.

Craftsman fixtures took a naturalistic, straight and clean appearance. These light fixtures had angular features either square or rectangular in shape. This style later became the famous Prairie style used by architect Frank Lloyd Wright.

Georgian style fixtures were more ornate. Many larger fixtures hung from heavy chains with no shades; others had glass shading in opaque colors

Materials and Fixtures

Craftsman light fixtures taking a natural tone are usually constructed of oak, maple or other hardwoods. This complemented the housing styles of the East Coast such as American Foursquare and the Midwest Prairie style homes. Georgian lighting was often cast in metal, usually hammered iron or copper. The material and style often was suited to the design and style of the English Tudor homes or Queen Anne cottages.

Craftsman fixtures were often found on large wrap-around porches, and were a smaller aspect of the whole design. Georgian fixtures remained with smaller entrance ways, where they were the focal point.

Tags: fixtures were, light fixtures, Craftsman fixtures, Georgian style, lighting fixtures, Prairie style, transition from

Measure A Fan Blade

The measure of a fan blade gives an indication of the fan's circumference.

Measuring fan blades allows you to pinpoint the exact size of a blade that needs replacing. The measurement can also give you an indication of how big around an entire fan is so you can properly fit it into a space. Getting the length of a fan blade entails dragging a measuring tool, such as a tape measurer or measuring tape, from one end of the blade to the other and jotting down the number. Make sure you measure twice to be certain.

Instructions

1. Start the measuring tool (tape measurer or measuring tape) at the very tip of the fan blade.

2. Extend the measuring tool along the fan blade and stop at the point where the fan blade meets the fan motor or spindle. Take the measurement a second time to ensure that the length is accurate.

3. Take down the measurement in inches.

4. Measure the fan's entire diameter by measuring the width across the fan motor or spindle, multiplying the length of the fan blade by two and adding the motor or spindle width to that number. Knowing the fan's diameter allows you to adequately fit the fan in a space.

Tags: measuring tool, motor spindle, length blade, measurer measuring, measurer measuring tape, measuring tape, tape measurer