Friday, February 27, 2009

Prep A Bathroom Ceiling For Painting

It's all in the prep work.


The most important part of painting a bathroom ceiling is the prep work. If you thoroughly prep your ceiling before painting it, you can make a cracked, nicked, or moldy ceiling look like new again.


Instructions


1. Remove as many objects from the bathroom as you can or put them in the bathroom closet. They will get very dirty if you leave them out. Also, lay a tarp over the floor to make cleanup easier.


2. Open all windows and close the door to promote ventilation. If you have a bathroom fan, turn it on.


3. First you will need to remove any old paint that is still on the ceiling. Use the putty knife to scrap off as much of it as you can. Hold the knife at a low angle and don't scrap the ceiling too hard, or you may dig into the ceiling and create pits that you will have to plaster later.


4. Sand the ceiling to remove the remainder of the old paint. While you are sanding, remove any surface mold on the ceiling.


5. Use joint compound and apply it to any cracks or pits in the ceiling with a putty knife. Don't worry if it is not perfectly flat. Just make sure that the cracks and holes are filled.


6. Wait 24 hours for the compound to dry before sanding. Sand the surface with a 150-grit paper or finer to avoid scrape marks.


7. Use a wet cloth over the entire ceiling to gently wipe off the dust. If dust gets in the paint, it will not stick as easily. Now you are ready to paint.

Tags: prep work, putty knife

Ground A Ceiling Light

A ceiling light, as with other electrical fixtures, is fed by a "hot" (black) wire and a neutral white wire. The electrical circuit won't work without both wires involved. You can make it work without a ground wire, but you shouldn't. A ground wire is simply an extra wire that's designed to route any stray electrical current (from, say, a power surge) back into the system, so it won't shock anyone standing near the fixture. A properly installed electrical circuit will have a bare copper ground wire that should always be included in the light installation process.








Instructions


1. Turn off the electricity to the ceiling electrical box. If there's currently a fixture attached to it, remove the fixture using your screwdriver. Disconnect the three wires from the fixture and leave them hanging from the box. You will see a black wire, a white wire and a bare copper ground wire.


2. Find the mounting bracket for your new light. It will be a flat metal piece with a green grounding screw on it, and open screw holes to attach it to the box. Attach it using the provided machine screws.


3. Take the end of the bare copper ground wire and bend it into a U-shape, using your needle-nose pliers. Hook it around the green screw. Tighten the screw.


4. Raise the new light to the electrical box. Hold the white wire from the light next to the white wire from the box and twist a wire cap over the two of them. Do the same for the black wires from the light and box.


5. Tuck the two wires up inside the box. Mount the light to the mounting plate, using the provided screws. The green grounding screw and copper wire should be completely hidden by the fixture. Turn the power back on.

Tags: ground wire, white wire, bare copper, bare copper ground, copper ground, copper ground wire

Bathroom Ceiling Design Ideas

Bathroom ceilings don't have to be plain white areas of space devoid of patterns.


Bathroom ceilings don't have to be plain white or off-white colors, barren of designs or patterns. Taking advantage of the space above your ceiling as an area to heighten the style and decor scheme of your bathroom can truly assist in transforming it into a memorable space and making your bathroom ceiling an eye-catching area.


Ceiling Mural


A near effortless way to transform your bathroom ceiling into an area of instant interest is to paint a mural on the ceiling. For example, a ceiling mural of something just as simple as a blue sky and clouds or a sky showing a storm approaching will bring an element of the outdoors into your bathroom, making it seem like you're almost outdoors. Other ceiling murals turn your bathroom ceilings into works of art, depicting cherubs, angels and other celestial figures. However, because the bathroom is yours, the ceiling is yours, and you can truly depict anything you want in your mural, such as a famous scene from literature or history.


Tile Ceiling








Tile ceilings are the ultimate material for moisture resistance; that's why nearly every bathroom has tile to some extent all over the space -- at least along the walls and floor. Installing tile on the ceiling of a bathroom means you'll never have to deal with cracked or peeling paint reacting badly to moisture. A tile ceiling also gives the entire room an almost spa-like effect. You can make your tile ceiling as simple or ornate as you like, either using a single color of tile or several to create intricate patterns.


Skylights


Skylights are a wise choice for a bathroom as they give you several advantages at once: They allow you a wealth of natural light, thus reducing your electric bill and allowing you to benefit from the environment as well as letting in a degree of the outside natural world into your bathroom. Skylights let you bathe while looking up at the clouds or the night sky, giving your bathroom an added focal point of the room. You can even shower when there's a storm outside and experience the sounds and sight of raindrops hitting your skylight as you sit underneath a rush of warm water.

Tags: your bathroom, bathroom ceiling, Bathroom ceilings, Bathroom ceilings have, ceilings have

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Diy Stargazing Ceilings

Paint star constellations to create stargazing ceilings.


Imagine lying in bed at night and staring up at the stars, without being outdoors or having an expensive retractable roof built into your home. If you don't want that kind of expense or the cost of hiring a specialized contractor to create this vision, make your own stargazing ceiling with do-it-yourself creative painting techniques and a little imagination.


Instructions


1. Stick painter's tape along the top edge of the walls, even with the line of the ceiling. Place tape around any light fixtures.


2. Apply a coat of paint primer to the ceiling. This helps the dark paint cover the ceiling completely in just one coat.


3. Paint the ceiling with the midnight blue paint. Use a roller to apply the paint to the center of the ceiling for even coverage. Use a paintbrush to paint the edges and corners. Apply a second coat if any of the white primer shows through.


4. Apply the glaze paint with a paintbrush. Blend any lines made with the rollers when you applied the dark blue paint.


5. Brush on the finish glitter topcoat. According to Benjamin Moore, this finish adds a shimmering look to the ceiling, adding a starry night sky effect. Let the ceiling dry several hours or overnight.


6. Decide on the pattern for the stars on the ceiling. You can place them at random or in actual constellation patterns.


7. Tape the star stencils in the chosen pattern on the ceiling with painter's tape. Brush the glow-in-the-dark paint onto the star stencils. Remove the stencils carefully after an hour.

Tags: ceiling with, blue paint, painter tape, star stencils

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Hang An Air Chair







An air chair is a hammock-like chair made of wood, canvas and rope. It even has a foot rest. If you like the sensation of hanging in space with nothing below to anchor you to the ground or floor, then you'll enjoy this chair. Before you sit down in one, however, make sure it's securely attached to something overhead.


Instructions


1. Choose a point far enough out from the wall to hang the air chair. Air chairs can be adjusted from a straight up and down seating position to a a reclining position. Whatever position the air chair is put in, it should be at least a foot away from any walls.


2. Locate the ceiling joist the air chair will hang from. Ceiling joists are usually located 16 inches on center. Take a tape measure and measure 16 inches out from a wall. Tap a small finishing nail up through the ceiling to see if it hits wood. If not, pull the nail out and move a half inch to the left or right of the first hole and pound the nail in again. Keep tapping the nail through until you locate the joist.


3. Find both outside edges of the ceiling joist. Again use the finishing nail technique to do this. It's imperative that the eye screw that the chair hangs from is screwed into the center of the ceiling joist.


4. Check the diameter of the eye hook that came with the air chair. Put a drill bit into an electric drill that is slightly smaller in diameter than that of the threads on the eye hook. A typical hole size for a chair like this is 5/16-inch. Drill straight up into the center of the ceiling joist three inches.


5. Insert the tip of the eye screw into the drilled hole and start turning it clockwise. When it becomes too difficult to turn it with bare hands, insert the shank of a long screwdriver into the eye of the screw. Grip the screwdriver with both hands and twist it clockwise to turn the screw into the joist even deeper. Keep turning until all the threads on the eye screw are no longer visible.


6. Take the two top rope ends that the chair hangs from, match them up so they are of equal length and tie them in an overhand knot. To do this, thread the matched ends of the rope through the closed eye of an S-hook--one end of the S-hook is open and the opposite end is closed forming an eye. Pull at least 12-inches of these two strands of rope through the eye of the S-hook. Lay the 12-inches of rope down along side the two other strands of rope coming off the air chair, and grip all four strands with your non-dominant hand. These four strands are comprised of the two strands coming off the air chair. Pick up the S-hook with the dominant hand and hold it directly in front of your body and perpendicular to the ground. Pull the four strands of rope straight down from the eye of the S-hook with the non-dominant hand so that they, too, are perpendicular to the ground. Bring the S-hook straight down with the dominant hand directly in front of the non-dominant hand still holding the four strands of rope. Bring the S-hook around to the right side of the four strands of rope and then back, crossing behind them. A loop has now been formed over the non-dominant hand--this is the overhand part of the overhand knot. Carefully thread the S-hook through loop--pull the non-dominant hand out of the looped strands if necessary. Push the S-hook all the way through the loop. Once the S-hook has been pushed all the way through the loop, tighten the overhand knot by gripping the S-hook with the dominant hand and pulling straight up while simultaneously pulling straight down on the rope below the base of the eye of the S-hook, with the non-dominant hand.


7. Hook the top of the S-hook into the eye screw in the ceiling.


8. Insert the dowels into the chair. The longest dowel is set horizontal to the floor, between the two ropes from which the chair hangs from the ceiling.


9. Insert the two matching medium size dowels from back to front. These are the arm rests.


10. Install the short dowel between the two ropes coming off the foot rest sling.

Tags: four strands, non-dominant hand, strands rope, ceiling joist, S-hook with

Seal Up A Ceiling Register

If during a renovation or home repair you moved the ventilation in your ceiling, you need to seal up the old register vent so you do not have a gaping hole in your ceiling. Fortunately, you can seal up the vent in a way that will make it look like the vent was never there. Expect the process to take several days to complete. Therefore, this makes for a great weekend project.


Instructions








1. Remove the screws that secure the register vent to the ceiling and then discard the old vent.


2. Cut a patch of drywall with a utility knife slightly larger than the hole for the register vent.








3. Place the patch over the hole in the ceiling and then trace it with a pencil. Mark one side of the patch so you know place the patch once you cut the hole.


4. Cut along the scribed line in the ceiling with a keyhole saw. Stay as close to the line as possible to minimize the gap between the patch and the ceiling.


5. Cut two pieces of 1-by-1-inch lumber approximately 4 inches longer than the opening in the ceiling.


6. Apply construction adhesive to one side of the boards and then place the boards up into the ceiling and press the glued sides against the backside of the ceiling. Secure the boards in place by driving drywall screw up through the ceiling and into each end of the wooden boards. Countersink the screw heads into the ceiling slightly.


7. Place the drywall patch into the ceiling and press it against the boards. Secure the patch to the boards in the ceiling with drywall screws. Again, countersink the screws.


8. Apply a layer of drywall plaster around the seam between the ceiling and patch and over the screws.


9. Press drywall tape over the plaster with your putty knife and then add a layer of drywall plaster over the tape. Allow 24 hours drying time.


10. Sand the surface of the drywall plaster so the edges of the plaster blend with the ceiling. Take your time with this to get it right. Wipe the ceiling down with a tack cloth.


11. Pant the ceiling with color-matched paint that matches the current paint on the ceiling. Use a paint roller to apply the paint.

Tags: ceiling with, drywall plaster, into ceiling, register vent, ceiling press

Convert A Pull String Light To A Wall Switch

Ceiling light operated by a wall switch


It is often challenging to find the pull string to turn on a light in a dark room. There's no telling what you may bump into before getting the lights burning. Pull chain switches normally wear out long before the light fixture. The light can be converted to operate from a wall switch whether the pull string has stopped working, or you're tired of flailing around in the dark. Install an easy-to-find light switch to operate the ceiling light for years of reliable service.


Instructions


1. Select a location on the wall for the switch. Run a stud finder from that location up to the ceiling to be sure there are no obstructions behind the wall that would block a cable from the reaching the location.


2. Shut off power to the entire house by turning off the "main" switch in the breaker panel. Leave a warning sign or lock the breaker box to ensure that the power stays off until you finish.


3. Draw a pencil mark around the paper wall pattern supplied with the wall box, or an outline of the back rectangular shape of the remodel wall box. Cut through the drywall along the lines with a drywall saw.


4. Place one end of a 2/12 Romex near the ceiling light in the attic with 12 inches of excess cable available for making connections. Drape the cable along the rafters from the light to the wall that will hold the switch. Attach the other end of the Romex to the hook of a fish tape and secure it with electrical tape. Push the fish tape down the wall from the ceiling to the newly cut opening in the drywall. Push 18 inches of cable through the opening.


5. Slice through the plastic outer jacket of the Romex with a utility knife lengthwise to make an 8-inch slit at the end in the attic, and the end in the wall opening. Slice off the slit portion of the jacket to free 8 inches of the inner wires. Strip the insulated wires with wire cutter blades to expose 1/2 inch of bare wire at each end. Strip the wire ends in the attic near the light and at the wall switch location. Wrap 1 1/2 inches of black electrical tape around the white wire of the Romex at both ends just behind the bare wire.


6. Feed the wires at the light switch end in through the cable hole in the wall box. Recoil the holding clamps on the wall box by pushing them toward the back, or inward depending on the wall box manufacturer. Hold the clamps as you insert the box into the hole in the wall. The clamps will spring back into place to create pressure between themselves and the outer frame of the wall box in front of the cut opening. Tighten the clamp screws to create a firm grip on the drywall and secure the wall box.


7. Connect the black wire from the Romex to one of the terminals on the switch, and the white wire wrapped in black electrical tape to the other terminal by winding the bare wire around the terminal screws in clockwise rotations. Tighten the terminal screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Connect the bare copper ground wire from the Romex to the ground terminal screw in the back of the wall box.


8. Unscrew the mounting screws holding the light fixture to the ceiling. Unscrew the terminal on the light socket holding the black wire. Twist the bare wire from the removed black wire around the bare wire of the black Romex wire in the attic. Cap the connection with a wire nut by twisting it over the exposed wire with clockwise turns.


9. Connect the white Romex wire marked with black electrical tape to the terminal on the light socket that formerly held the black wire. Cut the bare copper, or green ground wire about 8 inches from where it connects to the light. Strip 1/2 inch off the insulation at both freshly cut ends of the wire if it's wrapped in green insulation. Twist the two wire ends around the bare copper ground wire of the Romex and cover the connection with a wire nut.


10. Check all wire connections to be sure every color-coded wire is connected to the correct terminal. Replace the ceiling lamp and tighten the holding screws. Place the light switch inside the wall box and tighten the mounting screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Place the cover plate over the switch and secure it with the holding screws. Tighten those screws with a slotted screwdriver. Restore power and operate the light with the new switch.

Tags: bare wire, black wire, electrical tape, wall switch, bare copper

Calculate A Ceiling Fan For A Vaulted Ceiling

Calculating the correct size ceiling fan for a vaulted ceiling is not difficult.


A ceiling fan is an economical way to cool the occupants in a room. It is also a decorative feature that often includes a light fixture. It is not difficult to calculate the size of ceiling fan necessary for a room with a vaulted ceiling. During the warm weather seasons, you can raise your thermostat 2 degrees and save up to 14 percent on your energy bill by using a ceiling fan, as stated by the Energy Star website.


Instructions








1. Measure the length and width of the room where you want your ceiling fan.


2. Multiply the two measurements together to calculate the square footage of the room. Generally, a room that is up to 50 square feet requires a fan blade span of 30 inches. For a room that is 51 to 100 square feet, select a span of 36 inches; up to 200 square feet, a 42-inch span; and use a 52-inch span fan blade for rooms that are 200 to 400 square feet. Any room size larger than 400 square feet requires fan blades with a span of 54 inches, according to the This Old House website.


3. Look for a mount made specifically for vaulted or angled ceilings. Generally, these are called slope mounts.


4. Add a downrod to the sloped mount so that the ceiling fan is positioned 8 or 9 feet above the floor. This creates optimal airflow in the room.

Tags: square feet, span inches, that square, that square feet, feet requires, room that, room that square

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Making Ceiling Fan Pulls







Ceiling fan pulls often come in lengths inaccessible to many individuals.


Indoor ceiling fans often come packaged with ceiling fan pulls too short for the individuals using the fan to reach. If this is the case, the ceiling fan pull will need an extension so that everyone can reach the pull. While you can purchase many pulls, you can also make your own decorative pulls with attractive crafting beads and crafting wire. You can craft fan pulls color coordinated to fit the room d cor or make them in complementary colors that will stand out and bring focus to the pull.


Instructions


1. Choose the type of beads you want to use to complete your ceiling fan chain. Try to select beads of a similar size except for the bottom bead, which will need to be larger.


2. Cut the 12-gauge crafting wire in a length that suits the height of the individuals using the fan pull. Add an additional 2 inches of wire at the top and bottom so that you can tie knots at each end. If the holes in the beads are significantly larger than the 12-gauge wire, you can double the wire, which adds to the stability and strength of the ceiling fan pull.


3. Align the beads in the order that you wish to have them appear on the pull. The area that you choose to lay the beads out on should be solid and steady, such as a craft table or dining room table.


4. Use a large darning or appliqu needle to string the 12-gauge crafting wire through each of the beads, beginning with the bead you would like to have at the top of the pull.


5. String all of the beads onto the wire, leaving the larger bead that will be used to pull the string at the bottom. Tie the bottom of the fan pull with a large knot that will not slip through the bottom bead. Use a small amount of crafting glue on the knot. This will add to the strength of the fan pull knot, which can become loosened when the pull is tugged on over a period of time. Allow the glue to dry before attaching the pull to the fan.


6. Attach the fan pull to the existing pull protruding from the fan. Double-knot the loops to ensure that they attach properly to each other. If the pull that already exists on the fan is made of string and not wire or beading, try looping the existing pull through the wire and then tying off the string. This will give you additional security and ensure that the crafting wire does not slide down the pull string.

Tags: crafting wire, that will, 12-gauge crafting, 12-gauge crafting wire, bottom bead, ceiling pull

Install 2x2 Tile In Shower

Replacing old tile in the shower may add value to your home.


Tiling a shower can change the complete look of a bathroom. There are many different designs and styles of tiles on the market. Showers that are tiled set the mood for the rest of the bathroom. Tiling a shower may seem intimidating but it does not have to be. The key is making sure you have the area already prepared with a vapor barrier and cement backer board. This will help protect the tile and keep your work from falling apart later. The finished shower will be well worth the effort.


Instructions


1. Create a chalk line for the first row of tile by measuring 2 inches from the bottom of the backer board, and mark the location with a pencil. Repeat at several locations around the bottom of the shower. Stretch the chalk line between each of the marks and lightly snap the line against the backer board to form a chalk line.


2. Dampen the cement backer board with a sponge under the chalk line.


3. Apply tile mortar to the first row of the cement backer, under the chalk line. Use a trowel and spread the mortar on the surface as if you are buttering bread with the smooth edge. The trowel should be at a 30-degree angle to allow the grout to lie evenly. Use the ridged edge of the trowel to comb the mortar at a 45-degree angle; this will create ridges in the mortar and allow the tile to set up better.


4. Attach the first row of tiles by pressing them into place. Once in place slightly wiggle the tile to help set the mortar. Make sure the tile is straight and repeat for the next tile. Insert spacers between the tiles to guarantee even spacing throughout the shower.


5. Allow the tile to set for 20 minutes and remove the spacers. Ensure the tiles are straight and allow to dry overnight. The mortar will not be completely dry at this time; it will however create a firm base line of tiles. This will hold the next rows in place.


6. Add the remaining tiles one row at a time until the complete shower is tiled. Continue to use spacers between each of the tiles to ensure all the tiles are evenly spaced.


7. Remove the spacers after the tiles have been in place for approximately 20 minutes, just as the mortar is starting to set up. Allow the mortar to dry 2 full days to make certain the tile and mortar are firmly stuck together.


8. Mix the grout according to the package directions. Allow the grout to activate for 10 minutes to ensure the chemicals are ready to adhere properly.


9. Apply the grout to the cracks in the tile by floating or pressing the grout into the cracks with the float at a 30-degree angle. Work on one small section at a time.








10. Allow the grout to set according to the package directions, usually 30 minutes.


11. Wipe away the excess grout with a clean, damp sponge. Use circular motions and gently wipe the top surface of the tile. Make sure not to press into the gaps between the tiles or it will remove the grout.


12. Allow the grout to cure for 48 hours before using the shower.

Tags: chalk line, backer board, Allow grout, cement backer, 30-degree angle

Friday, February 20, 2009

Bamboo Varieties For Building Products

Bamboo grows fast and strong.


Bamboo is a fast-growing grass that manufacturers convert into building products. Builders use the hollow canes of the bamboo plant for building bridges, support poles, and scaffolding. Some producers mill bamboo into planks, panels and veneers to use for floors, walls and ceilings. There are almost 1,000 species of bamboo with varying characteristics that make each plant more or less suitable as a building product.


Moso Bamboo


Floor manufacturers use moso bamboo (Phyllostachys pubescens) frequently to make planks for bamboo flooring. The plant has the potential grow to a height of 80 feet. Typical growth for it is half of its maximum, at 40 to 50 feet. Moso is a hardy bamboo. It is the largest of the hardy bamboos. Each stalk has a diameter that measures between 4 and 7 inches.


Japanese Timber Bamboo


Japanese timber bamboo is also known by the common name of Castillon Inversa Bamboo (Phyllostachys bambusoides). It grows to a mature height of between 10 and 30 feet. It is evergreen with foliage in colors of green, yellow-green to gold. Builders use Japanese timber bamboo for construction because the canes have relatively thick walls.


Chinese Timber Bamboo


Chinese timber bamboo (Phyllostachys vivax) grows to a height of approximately 30 feet. It is hardy to USDA zone 8. Chinese timber bamboo is used for ornamental structures. It is an evergreen that prefers moist soil to grow. The canes will grow to 4 inches in diameter.


Sweet Shoot Bamboo


Sweet shoot bamboo (Phyllostachys dulcis) grows to a mature height of 40 feet. The culms average 3 inches in diameter. Sweet shoot bamboo canes are weaker than some other plants in the genus. Although it is sometimes used for building products, more typically, woodworkers will shape this bamboo into items such as tool handles.


Guada Atlantica


Guada Atlantica (Guadua Chacoensis) grows up to 100 feet high. On average, its culms are 6 inches in diameter. Guada Atlantica's size and strength are the reason it is suitable for use in construction. It grows in South America.


Bambu Tali


Bambu tali (Gigantochloa apus) grows on average to 60 feet in height. Its canes typically grow to diameters of approximately 4 inches. It has strong and durable culms. According to Cooperative Extension Service at the University of Hawaii, builders in Java prefer this bamboo and use it frequently for house construction and building bridges.


Giant Timber Bamboo


Giant timber bamboo (Bambusa oldhamii) grows to a maximum height of 55 feet. Sunset magazine notes that this bamboo grows 15 to 25 feet quickly in the initial stages of growth and later may reach heights between 20 and 55 feet. The culms average 4 inches in diameter. It has wide and long leaves. The culms are dark green. The relative weakness of the cane means that it is best used only for light construction.

Tags: inches diameter, bamboo Phyllostachys, Guada Atlantica, height feet, this bamboo

Faq Ceiling Fans







A ceiling fan is a versatile addition to any room.


During warm weather, ceiling help you feel cooler and more comfortable. But ceiling fans can also be run during the winter to help keep rooms warm. Knowing position ceiling fans and operate them properly make these appliances an efficient and welcomed addition to the home.


Energy Savings


Ceiling fans cost about the same to operate as powering up a 100-watt light bulb. At just a few pennies each day, energy consumption is nearly negligible. A fan can supplement the air conditioner in summer, allowing consumers to run them less often. Fans can also distribute warm air throughout the room, causing the furnace to kick on less often in winter for additional energy savings.








Fan Size Requirements


The size ceiling fan needed depends on the length of the room's longest wall. If that wall is 12 feet or less, a 36-inch diameter fan will take care of the space. Larger wall lengths of 12 to 15 feet require a 42-inch diameter fan, and rooms of 15 to 18 feet need a 52-inch diameter unit. Large rooms need two or more ceiling fans.


Mounting Fans


Ceiling fans are heavy and they generate some torque when they are rotating. Fans must be anchored to ceiling joists, framing studs screwed into place between joists, or to a metal expandable fan support mounted between joists. Electrical boxes must be rated for ceiling fans and be capable of supporting at least 50 pounds.


Fan Rotation


In summer and during mild weather days, ceiling fans are rotated counterclockwise in order to produce the wind-chill effect necessary to make people feel cooler. A steady breeze is evident when standing directly below the fan. In winter, reverse the fan so that it rotates clockwise. The pitched blades will move warm air that rises toward the ceiling back downward, along the walls and into the lower level of the room, where people occupy the space. In summer, fans are run at medium to high speeds while in winter, they are run at low speeds.


Thermostat Settings


Ceiling fans do not actually decrease the room's temperature in summer. The wind-chill just makes it feel that way. As a result, thermostats can be turned to a higher temperature setting and the room will feel at least four degrees cooler, according to the California Energy Commission Consumer Energy Center. Since warm air is actually brought back to floor level in winter, ceiling fans do make the room warmer. The thermostat senses that warmth, so the furnace operates less frequently.


Leaving Fans Running


Since fans cool people not rooms in summer, they should be turned off when no one is occupying the space. In winter, leave fans running regardless if people are present because the fan's churning keeps warm air where it needs to be and results in an energy savings.

Tags: between joists, ceiling fans, ceiling fans, feel cooler, less often

Make Ceiling Swags With A Net

Draperies ready to hang.


Ceiling swags add romance and drama to the reception settings used for weddings and other types of events. Generally the swag is centered in the room or at a ceiling fixture and the fabric drapes or swags to the outer edges of the room. Fabric weight is a critical consideration when deciding to use a ceiling swag. For this reason tulle or netting makes a particularly good choice because it is light, can provide a sparkle and you can install it with little trouble.


Instructions


1. Spray the wreath white with spray paint. Determine if you will fit the wreath around an existing light fixture. If so, you may need to cut the wreath so that it will fit around the chain or top of the fixture.


2. Cut lengths of pre-primed wood trim that is about 1/2x2 inches. If your event is in a small dining room 12 feet by 12 feet, cut 4 lengths of 12 feet each.


3. Cut tulle 1-foot wide by the length of your boards (12 feet in our example). Wrap the boards in tulle and staple the tulle in place to disguise the boards. Screw each tulle wrapped board to the top of the wall using 1 screw on each end of the board. Leave the boards loose.


4. Cut tulle longer than your room width. For our example, cut the tulle 14 feet long. Knot one end of the tulle into the top of the wire wreath so that fabric comes through the bottom of the wreath's central hole. Add tulle all the way around the wreath.








5. Position small chains and S hooks, and attach the top of the wreath to the chain above the central light fixture. Bring a length of fabric to the wall, and slide the end of the tulle up between the board and the wall (toward the ceiling). Determine how much swag you want, and wrap and staple the tulle to the board. Repeat this with the tulle section opposite from where you started and perpendicular to balance the center and allow you to evenly space the remaining sheets of tulle.


6. Trim any excess tulle. Screw the boards into the wall, and you have an elegant swagged ceiling that is light in weight. Some tulles have glitter embedded in them, which can help reflect the light even further and add to your ambiance.

Tags: board wall, each tulle, light fixture, staple tulle, wreath that

A Decorative Way To Fix Ceiling Tiles

Dress up plain tiles with decoupaged images.


While practical, many styles of ceiling tiles are not pretty. If your ceiling is covered with drop ceiling tiles or boring, white tiles, you can fix them up by decoupaging colorful paper or fabric over top of the tiles. The decoupage can also cover up any stains in the tiles. If you have a drop ceiling, it may be easiest to take each individual tile down to cover it. The project can take a while, so enlist the help of a few friends to make it more enjoyable.


Instructions


1. Cut enough pieces of paper or fabric to cover the tiles. You can use enough paper or fabric to completely cover each tile, or cut out a shape or image to attach to the center of each tile.


2. Work one ceiling tile at a time or one tile per person at a time. Stand on a ladder if you can't take the tiles down. Smooth PVA glue over the tile using a paintbrush or roller, depending on the size of the tile.


3. Lay the cut-out fabric or paper on top of the tile. Smooth it flat so that there are no wrinkles or bubbles between the paper and tile. Keep working until the tile is sufficiently coated in paper or fabric.








4. Apply another layer of glue on top of the paper to seal its edges flat and prevent peeling. Let the glue dry overnight.


5. Repeat the process on the remaining tiles.








6. Paint a layer of polyurethane over the decoupaged tiles to add a layer of shine. You can skip this step if you wish.

Tags: paper fabric, ceiling tiles, drop ceiling, each tile, paper tile

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Make Your Own Balloon Drop Net







Make Your Own Balloon Drop Net


So you've chosen balloons for that special occasion. But balloons alone -- even custom balloons -- are not in and of themselves a guaranteed wow. You need something that will put it over the top. Something like a balloon drop. Follow the steps below to make your own balloon drop net without a kit and celebrate in style.


Instructions


1. How many balloons do you plan to drop?


You need to know about how many balloons you'll have before you can purchase the net. Mylar balloons are all about the same size. Latex balloons are a bit smaller. You'll probably want custom balloons either way.


2. Get the netting:


It can be bird netting or strawberry netting or fish pond netting from a landscape supply store. Buy the netting in standard sizes or have it cut to the size you'd like. Figure you can fit 250, 11" balloons in a net that's 17' x 15' and 600, 11" balloons in a 17' x 30' net.


3. Stuff the net with the balloons:


Spread the net out on the floor and begin to "stuff" the net with the inflated balloon. To do that, you'll need to make a sort of bag out of the net by doing a weaving stitch through the short edge to make the bottom of the pocket and then down the length of the netting as you fill it up. Be careful NOT to tie off or secure the farthest end of the line running down the length of the netting. It has to be able to pull completely free later. (When you're all done, you're going to flip it over and attach the unsewn side to the ceiling, leaving the stitched side hanging down. When the time is right and the cord is pulled, the stitches running the length of the net will pull free and the balloons will drop!)


4. Hang the filled netting from the ceiling and let the pull rope dangle out of sight until needed:


Use ceiling clips or c-clamps. Even cup hooks will work in a pinch. Just be sure they're up there to stay for the drop. Hook the unsewn side of the netting to the clamps. (The point is to have the netting open and drop the balloons in the process, not to have the net fall down from the ceiling.) Make sure the net is high enough off the floor so people aren't lunging at it before the drop. Also be sure the pull rope is out of sight - for the same reason.


5. When the time is right:


Pull the pull rope in a steady motion. The line should come out in an easy motion. As it does, the net will un-sew and the balloons will drop.

Tags: pull rope, balloon drop, Balloon Drop, balloons that, balloons will, balloons will drop

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Assistant Financial Adviser Salary

Financial adviser assistants commonly earn bonuses in addition to their salary.


The assistant financial adviser, sometimes called a sales assistant, helps the financial adviser better manage her time by handling routine customer inquiries. This gives the assistant the opportunity to hone her skills in the area of advisory services and investment analytics. The assistant financial adviser's salary and benefits vary widely based on the company where the adviser works, the adviser's experience level, the industry, the company's size and its geographic location, states the Simply Hired website. Certification level, if any, also affects potential salary, according to the PayScale website.


Reported Salaries


Assistant financial adviser salaries, which are reported anonymously to Glassdoor.com by present and past employees and employers, indicate that assistant financial advisers earn $10 per hour to start or to intern for Morgan Stanley. Experienced assistant financial advisers for Morgan Stanley, however, earn $46,000 to $49,000 per year, plus a bonus, which brings their total annual pay package to as much as $52,000 per year. Waddell and Reed, a mutual fund financial employer, reports that assistant financial adviser salaries in its firm ranges from $32,000 to $35,000 per year. This reflects the differences between various financial organizations. UBS Financial Services reports that the average intern with a financial adviser assistant salary earns from $27,000 to $34,000 per year.








Salary Variation by Certification


In the financial services field, the assistant financial adviser has the opportunity to earn certifications in his area of specialty. This has bearing on his income. For instance, PayScale reports that a licensed producer of casualty, health, life and property insurance earns $35,371 to $44,219 per year. An assistant financial adviser with a National Association of Security Dealers, or NASD, Series 7 license earns from $35,037 to $42,253 per year. An NASD Series 66 license-holder can expect to earn in the range of $35,017 to $40,976 per year. Certified Financial Planners earn from $34,921 to $42,424 per year. The highest pay ranges for assistant financial advisers go to those who have a Chartered Financial Analyst certification. Advisers with this certification earn $45,000 to $65,000 per year.


Sales Assistant and Brokerage Clerk Hourly Rates








Sales clerks are a type of brokerage assistant who, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, "handle much of the day-to-day operations within a brokerage firm." The sales assistant takes phone calls from a broker's clients, writes up order tickets and enters the client's order into the computer system. They also handle the paperwork for new accounts and inform clients of stock prices. Most sales assistants hold a securities license, so they can call clients and make recommendations regarding specific investments. The BLS reports an industry-wide hourly rate of $18.61 per hour. Sales assistants working in securities, commodities and other investments earn slightly more at $18.81 per hour.


Job Prospects


While job prospects are expected to increase from 2008 to 2018 by 12 percent, intense competition for positions can be expected. The financial crisis of 2008 to 2009 created large losses for some financial institutions, and closures or layoffs for others. As a result, those applicants with at least a four-year degree and/or a CFP designation or other certification have the best chance of securing the positions that will open in the next few years.

Tags: assistant financial adviser, financial adviser, assistant financial, from year, assistant financial advisers, financial adviser, financial advisers

Paint Floating Clouds On The Ceiling

Collect photographs of real clouds as models when painting a cloud ceiling.


A cloud theme, especially when utilized on a high ceiling, brings the sky indoors. A soft cerulean backdrop dotted with wispy and puffy floating clouds is beautiful in a nursery, child's room, small salon or dining room, or even a guest bath. While there are some drawbacks to painting overhead, including sore muscles and paint spatters in the eyes, the result of this neck-stiffening labor is a heavenly, handpainted decorative ceiling. Prior to painting, collect photos and paintings of clouds and study their shapes and colors for inspiration.


Instructions


1. Prepare the room for painting. Remove any movable furniture and place drop cloths over any flooring or remaining furniture pieces in the room. Set up a ladder or scaffold to work from. Line the top edges of the walls with painter's tape to avoid drips and smears on the walls.


2. Paint the ceiling blue. Use a soft, sky blue color to create a dreamy, floating cloud effect. If you are painting over a white ceiling, one coat of blue paint is fine. Allow the paint to dry completely.








3. Pour white, indoor, matte-finish, water-based paint into a paint pan. Use water-based paint because overhead painting is messy and water-based paint cleans up easier than oil. Wear a painter's cap to protect your hair from drips.


4. Dip a damp sea sponge into the paint and lightly sponge the paint onto the ceiling in a cloud shape, working from the center of the cloud outward. Clouds are more dense and opaque in the center, which means your paint should be as well. Place the first, large cloud slightly off-center in the room.


5. Locate larger clouds randomly around the ceiling and accent them with some smaller clouds. Determine how "cloudy" you want your ceiling to be; use a photograph of a real sky to create a balance of large and small clouds.


6. Press a piece of clean, damp cheesecloth against the paint to soften it. A quick and gentle on and off dab against paint that isn't yet dry will lighten it and blur any hard lines. Barely touch the cheesecloth to the paint to avoid smearing your clouds.


7. Use a clean, dry paintbrush to further soften the edges. A dry brush will pull paint in the direction your hand is moving. Place the brush near, but not at, the edge of the cloud and "pull" the paint at the perimeter of the cloud outward into wisps.


8. Step down and examine the work from time to time to ensure you are balancing the vista of large clouds with smaller clouds. As the paint dries, re-sponge the centers of the clouds with fresh paint to build them up and make the clouds look realistic.


9. Use a dry, round-headed brush to dab pale pink, lavender and blue paint, almost imperceptibly, onto the center sections of the larger clouds. Keep the paint light by collecting only a small amount of paint on the dry bristles. Tap the brush against the painted cloud to add particles of color to it without forming any definite shapes. You don't want polka dots, just some tint. These colors add density and realism to the clouds when they are seen from below.


10. Apply a coat of clear matte lacquer to the ceiling once the clouds are dry. Apply one quick coat in uniform strokes without going back over any areas of wet lacquer. Once the lacquer is dry, remove the painter's tape from the walls and enjoy the vision of delicate clouds floating across the room.

Tags: water-based paint, against paint, blue paint, ceiling cloud, cloud outward, clouds with, into paint

Install Armstrong Ceiling Tile With Glue

Install Armstrong Ceiling Tile With Glue


Armstrong ceiling tiles are designed with a tongue and groove feature to help the pieces fit tightly together. These tiles are intended for indoor installation only and can be installed through the use of furring strips or with a ceiling tile adhesive. The ceiling must be perfectly flat in order to glue down the tiles. If you have a popcorn or textured ceiling, the glue may not adhere properly and tiles could come loose over time.


Instructions


1. Clean the ceiling by dusting away any cobwebs and wiping off stains or discolored spots with a rag dampened in a mixture of equal parts water and white vinegar. Dirt or dust will prevent the tiles from properly adhering to the ceiling.


2. Determine the size of the border tiles by measure the distance between opposite walls in the room to determine the dimensions of the ceiling. Each ceiling tile is 12 inches square so if the measurements are even, such as 12 feet by 12 feet, you will use whole tiles for the border. If the dimensions are 12 feet and 6 inches by 12 feet and 6 inches, add an additional 12 inches to the inches portion of each measurement and then divide by two. For example, 12 feet and 6 inches becomes 12 feet and 18inches. Divide 18 inches by two to determine that the border tiles should be 9 inches wide.


3. Use a chalk line to mark the ceiling where the border tiles will be installed. If you need a 9-inch wide border, this line will be 9 inches from the wall. Continue to make chalk lines 1 foot apart to create a grid on the ceiling.


4. Cut the border tiles to size with a sharp utility knife. Use a straight edge to guide the knife and ensure an even cut.


5. Install the border tiles along one wall by applying ceiling tile adhesive to the corners and middle of each tile. Press each tile firmly into place on the ceiling with the grooved end of each of the tiles facing away from the wall.


6. Install the next row of tiles in the same manner. As you apply each tile to the ceiling, push the tile tightly against the border tiles so that the tongue and groove features of the tiles fit together.


7. Continue to install the tiles one row at a time until the entire ceiling has been covered.

Tags: border tiles, ceiling tile, each tile, feet inches, Armstrong Ceiling, Armstrong Ceiling Tile

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Antique Tin Ceiling Tiles

Paint tin celing tile to give it an antique look.


Antique tin ceiling tiles add an opulent, old-fashioned look to any ceiling. New tin tiles may come looking like they're much older than they are -- a detail that usually comes at a price. You can paint your own tin ceiling tiles to give them that antique look, even if you don't have experience with antiquing. If you're installing new tin tile, paint it before installing it; otherwise, this process can be done on installed ceiling tile.


Instructions


1. Clean the tiles using a sponge dampened with dish soap and water. Dry with paper towels or a microfiber cloth.


2. Apply a bonding primer to the tin tile. If your base color will be white or a light color, use white primer; if your base will be dark, use a dark-colored primer. Allow the primer to dry overnight, or as the manufacturer directs.


3. Paint the tin ceiling tile in the base color. Allow the tiles to dry overnight.


4. Pour metallic paint into a roller pan. Dip a foam roller into the paint and roll off the excess. Lightly roll the metallic paint on the tile so that it's applied to the raised part of the design only, giving it the look of metal showing through.

Tags: ceiling tiles, antique look, base color, ceiling tile, metallic paint

Home Decorating Tips For Vaulted Ceilings

Color and embellishment can turn a vaulted ceiling into a dramatic, impactful statement in a room.


Bringing height to a room through a vaulted ceiling adds architectural interest. Often, homeowners bring color, texture and visual interest into a room's walls and furnishings. However, ceilings are commonly left the white-painted drywall that came standard with the home. Paint, embellishments and architectural treatments transform a plain ceiling into the cohesive topper to a finished room.


Creating Coziness


Sometimes a tall, vaulted ceiling makes a room feel too large or expansive for a family's taste. According to the iVillage website, color can help make a large space feel cozier. Paint a ceiling a rich, deep tone to help lower its visual impact and make the room feel smaller. Choose a deep color like plum, burgundy, deep green or chocolate brown. Be sure to choose a color that is accented elsewhere in the room's design. It is important to paint the ceiling a color that is cohesive with the rest of the room's color scheme; otherwise, the ceiling appears jarring rather than cozy.


Causing an Impact








To create a grand statement, it is important to treat a vaulted ceiling as the icing to a room's cake, suggests the HGTV website. A patterned wallpaper, tin ceiling tiles or hand-painted mural turn a high ceiling into a room's most impactful statement. While many of these treatments will require professional installation, they are sure to make guests do a double take when entering a space. Wallpaper, murals and tin ceilings create a sense of opulence and grandeur. Complement a dramatic ceiling with formal furnishing and rich, elegant wall color.








Using Light


In a room with a vaulted ceiling, it is important to create many sources of light, according to the HGTV website. An expansive ceiling draws the eye upward and can make the rest of the room feel dark. Combine several sources of light in the room to help create visual interest, ground the ceiling with the space and provide ample light in the space. Suspend large pendant lights from the ceiling. To keep the room feeling light and airy, decorate the lights in neutral-colored shades. Add track lighting, as well as freestanding lamps. Create "task" lighting, where there is a light source for reading, working at a desk, playing games or other common tasks performed in the room.


Wooden Wonder


Wooden beams and planks can add a sense of natural beauty to an otherwise plain vaulted ceiling. The Ask the Builder website warns that adding wooden beams to a vaulted ceiling requires a significant amount of skill. For homeowners who do not possess carpentry skills, it may be best to have wooden beams professionally installed. Choose a rich, dark stain to help make a room seem smaller or a light finish to make a ceiling seem tall and a room feel airy. Wooden beams add architectural interest and will bring the eye up into the room. Wood also adds texture to a vaulted ceiling and helps the room turn into a focal point.

Tags: vaulted ceiling, room feel, ceiling into, into room, architectural interest, ceiling with

Monday, February 16, 2009

Hampton Bay Ceiling Fan Remote Installation

Hampton Bay fans, available at The Home Depot, provide energy-efficient cooling in the summer. By reversing their blades in the winter months, a ceiling fan can also improve heating efficiency. To make the fan easier to operate, you can install a ceiling fan remote. The Hampton Bay remote is an add-on option for some models, and for other models it is part of the fan package. In either case, the remote is easy to install.


The Transmitter Code


The ceiling fan and the remote control operate on infrared signals, and both must be on the same frequency so they can communicate with each other. Before starting the remote fan installation, turn the fan to high speed and turn its light on. Turn the fan off at the wall switch and pull the breaker for the fan at the breaker box. Both the ceiling fan remote and the receiver have a set of four switches that must be set identically to work properly. If the switches are too difficult to move with your finger, gently move them with a small screwdriver.


The Ceiling Fan Remote


Open the fan's remote control by sliding the back off of the battery cover. Once you have the cover open, look for the four switches. The factory setting leaves them all in the "Up" position. Set the switches however you want by sliding them up or down but do not leave them all in the "Up" position. There are 16 options available. Once the transmitter code is set, put the cover back on the remote.








The Receiver Installation


Snap the back off of the fan's receiver. Locate the switches and move them to match the settings you used in the remote. Put the cover back on the receiver. Disconnect the canopy from the ceiling's junction box. Typically, screws hold it in place. With the electrical supply off to the fan, look for green, black, white and blue wires. If you see anything different, call a licensed electrician to complete the installation. Otherwise, connect the green fan wire to the bare supply wire. Fasten the black receiver wire to the black supply wire. Do the same with the white wires. Match the blue wires, which are the wiring for the lights. Tuck all of the wiring inside the canopy and refasten the canopy to the junction box. Extend the antenna wire from the receiver out of the canopy and let it rest on the mounting bracket. Turn the power back on to the ceiling fan.


Troubleshooting


A number of things could cause your Hampton Bay remote to not work properly. Batteries wear out, so that is the first thing to check when troubleshooting Hampton Bay fans. If you notice your fan is on and you didn't intend for it to be, change the transmitter code in both the receiver and the remote. Chances are another remote in the house is interfering with the signals or is set identically. If the remote only operates at close distance, try moving the antenna wire so you can get better reception.

Tags: antenna wire, back receiver, blue wires, cover back, four switches, Hampton fans, Hampton remote

What Is The Best Interior Wall Paint Color For Low Ceilings

The color you choose to paint a room that has low ceilings can change the entire look and feel of the space. The right paint color can make the ceilings appear higher than they actually are and create the sense of a larger space overall.


Use a Light Paint Color


Choose a light paint color to visually raise low ceilings in your space. A light color on the ceiling will reflect more light and create an airy, open feeling. A dark paint color on the ceiling will attract more atention, further highlighting the low ceilings.


Choose the Right Wall Color


In a room with low ceilings, paint the walls in a light tone as well. A light-colored ceiling next to a dark wall creates contrast, once again drawing attention to the low ceiling. Walls painted in a dark, dramatic color will also tend to "close in" the space.


Use One Color Throughout








Use the same paint color on the ceiling and the walls to "raise" low ceilings.


Another option is to paint the ceiling the same color as the walls. This will eliminate the visual line between the walls and the ceiling, fooling the eye into thinking the ceiling is higher than it is.

Tags: color ceiling, paint color, ceiling will, color ceiling will, higher than, Paint Color, paint color ceiling

Wiring Instructions For A Hunter Ceiling Fan

Hunter has many kinds of indoor and outdoor ceiling fans. The series of fans they offer include Architect, Mission, Art Noveau, and Low Profile. Despite these many different styles, the process of wiring the ceiling fan is relatively similar among all of them. In essence, the wires from the junction box in the ceiling need to be connected to the wires coming from the fan. So long as you use proper precaution when dealing with electrical components, this is a safe job that can be done in a few minutes.








Instructions


1. Turn off the power to the circuit where the Hunter fan is to be wired. Climb a ladder and use a circuit tester on the wires from the outlet box to ensure that no power is coming through the wires.


2. Prepare the Hunter ceiling fan to be wired. Mount the ceiling fan on a metal ceiling plate that's attached to the wood joists in the ceiling, and let the fan hang from the fan ball in the bracket. When the fan is mounted, stick the wires from the outlet box in the ceiling through the central hole in the ceiling plate.


3. If your Hunter fan does not have a remote control transmitter, skip to Step 6. Otherwise, connect the receiver to the ceiling plate and note the wires coming from the receiver, the ceiling plate, and the down rod of the Hunter fan.


4. Connect the ground wires together in one large wire nut, which should come with the Hunter fan packaging. Twist the leads of the ground wires, which are green, together and screw the wire nut over them.








5. Connect the white wire from the ceiling to the white wire from the receiver, and the black wire from the ceiling to the black wire from the receiver. Cover each of these connections with a wire nut. Now connect the red wire from the receiver to a black or white wire from the fan. Connect a black wire from the receiver to a black wire from the fan, and connect a white wire from the fan to a white wire from the receiver. Be sure to cover these connections with wire nuts as well. Press all of these wires carefully through the ceiling plate so that they are above the ceiling, inside the outlet box. Be careful not to damage the wires.


6. Note the three wires coming from the outlet box through the ceiling box and the three wires from the ceiling fan through the down rod. Connect corresponding colors: white to white, black to black, and green to green. The green wire is the ground wire and may be blue colored for your Hunter fan. Strip any insulation needed to make a good connection with the leads. Insert a wire nut over each connection and press all of these wires once connected carefully through the ceiling plate into outlet box behind it.

Tags: wire from, ceiling plate, from receiver, white wire, white wire from, wire from receiver

Repair A Drywall Ceiling Seam

Drywall damage is fixed easily, though it takes time to dry








When a seam or crack in drywall appears, it usually means that either the house has shifted a little over time or that a dry climate has dried out the joint compound (it is also possible that drywall can come apart in the corners of the room). The compound then contracts and leaves a a crack. Whether on the ceiling or walls, drywall repair is a fairly simple process that won't take long to fix, although bear in mind that compound takes several hours to dry and is sometimes left overnight.


Instructions








1. Locate the seam (or crack) in the drywall on your ceiling. If taping paper has come away from the seam, simply pull away what you can. Then sand the area to ensure that no other taping paper is loose. If drywall is loose around the seam, use a tradesman's knife to scrape away all loose drywall. Apply mesh tape (sticky on one side) over the seam so that the center of the tape covers the seam. Press the mesh tape against the seam with your hands to make sure it is stuck firmly to the drywall.


2. Place some joint compound in a drywall tray. Apply the compound to the seam with a six-inch drywall knife: smooth the compound over the mesh tape from one side to the other, continuing in like fashion down the length of the mesh tape. Finally run the knife from one end of the mesh tape down to the other, to flatten out the compound.


3. Wait for the compound to dry. Sand the area so that the new compound is smooth. If a second layer of compound is needed (if part of the mesh tape is still visible), apply again and sand when dry. Apply primer and paint to tie the area in with the surrounding color scheme(s).

Tags: mesh tape, crack drywall, joint compound, loose drywall, seam crack

Friday, February 13, 2009

Paint Two Color Pressed Tins To Look Aged

Painting pressed tin to appear aged can save you money.


Interior design recently moved toward a revival of antique, classic looks. While century-old designs are timeless, not everyone can afford to purchase real, authentic pieces for their home. According to Tin Ceilings, pressed tin ceilings spiked in popularity more than 100 years ago; many original panels can be found today. To achieve the look of aged tin without spending a large amount of money on genuine antiques, you can paint purchased tiles to appear aged. Tin Ceilings also states that tin panels are "artistic, are available in many different patterns, and can be finished in many different ways."


Instructions








1. Remove existing tiles from ceiling to a lower, flat surface for safety and convenience. Working on a ladder and looking up for extended periods of time may result in accidents and can become quite uncomfortable.


2. Paint ceiling tiles with your chosen base coat color using a clean paintbrush. Don't worry if every inch of your tile is not evenly coated; aged tiles appear worn and weathered.


3. Sand the base coat lightly with a fine grit sandpaper. You want to sand just enough paint away to make the tile appear as though it has been hanging a long time.








4. Place a small amount of the contrast color, which should also be water-based paint, in a bowl. Mix water into the paint until a frothy consistency is reached. The mixture should not stick to the bowl when swirled.


5. Dampen your clean paintbrush and pat it on a paper towel so water is not dripping from the bristles. Apply the mixture over the base coat, making sure to cover every crack and crevice completely. Paint in small sections to keep the contrast coat from drying too quickly.


6. Allow the tiles to sit for two to three minutes before gently wiping with a paper towel. Don't worry about the cracks and crevices; paint will settle and enhance the aged look.


7. Continue this process until all tiles are covered with the contrast color. You may choose to apply a second coat of the contrast color if the first coat does not age the tiles enough.

Tags: base coat, contrast color, appear aged, clean paintbrush, many different

Paint A Coffered Ceiling

Coffered Ceiling


Coffered ceilings have small squares divided by molding. A coffered ceiling can have four areas or more. The prep work for painting a coffered ceiling, including taping off the molding for each square, usually takes longer than the physical painting process. A coffered ceiling may or may not have trim directly touching the paint areas; some ceilings have a small, vertical edge that also requires paint.








Instructions


1. Tape off all trim work that touches paint area. Use blue painter's tape that won't damage painted trim. Firmly press the tape down and burnish. This prevents paint from seeping under the edges of the tape.








2. Lay plastic sheets on all flooring areas in the room. Use drop cloths to cover furniture. Cover any curtains or window treatments with plastic or remove them. Paint can easily drip from a ceiling and splatter across the room when you use a roller. Protect items or remove them.


3. Place a piece of tape over ceiling fan switches, so the fan cannot be turned on. Painters may have to work near the fan, and a serious injury can occur if the blades begin to turn.


4. Trim all edges and corners with a paintbrush first. Using a roller, add paint to the flat ceiling area. If using a 9-inch roller overhead is too heavy, a small mini-roller also works well. If the coffered ceiling has vertical edges, check to see that the paint has covered all areas by standing in different corners of the room.


5. Remove all tape. If the paint has dried, it may be necessary to remove tape using a razor knife. Peel it slowly to avoid damage to the wall or trim. Remove all plastic and drop cloths carefully as they may contain drops of paint.

Tags: coffered ceiling, ceiling have, ceilings have, ceilings have small, coffered ceiling have, drop cloths, have small

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Bandera Texas River Cottages

Bandera, Texas is known as the "Cowboy Capital."


Bandera, Texas is known as the Cowboy Capital of the World. It's a little town that sits in the hill country and is filled with rivers, hills and a large lake. It's not unusual to see horses tied to hitching posts and you can even visit Bandera county Dude Ranch for a taste of the cowboy life. If you plan a visit to the area there are secluded cabins nestled in the countryside where you can take advantage of all the area has to offer.








Antler Cabins


The Antler Cabin rentals consist of two cabins situated in one and a half acres about a mile from downtown Bandera. The wilderness setting allows for visits from white tail deer and songbirds. The cabins feature kitchenette complete with appliances and utensils. The cabin bathrooms are small with shower, toilet and sink. Amenities include cable TV, ceiling fans, coffeemaker and pillow-top mattress. Property includes barbecue grill and fire rings. Rates start at $65 a night and there is a two-day minimum, as of 2010. No pets allowed.


Antler Cabins


43 Timber Lane


Bandera, TX 78003


830-535-4412


banderacabin.com


Ben's Cabin at Langford Farm


This restored cypress cabin dates back to the 1890s. It sits on 290 acres of farm land and has private access to the Medina river. Cabin features full kitchen with utensils, spacious living area, a deck and walk-in shower. Amenities are cable TV and VCR, and outdoor grill. Area activities include hiking, swimming, riverside walk and wildlife watching. Rates begin at $120 a night, as of 2010. No pets or children allowed.


Ben's Cabin at Langford Farm


P.O. Box 967


Bandera, TX 78003


830-522-4661


backroadstexas.net


Grans Country Cabins


Gran's Country Cabins offer scenic views of local wildlife situated in five acres just outside Bandera. Area recreation includes tubing down the Medina River, dancing at the local honky tonks and horseback riding. Cabins feature kitchenette with electric skillet, microwave, coffeemaker and utensils are provided. Linens and towels are supplied and there is cable TV. Rates start at $89 a night, as of 2010.


Grans Country Cabins


844 Highway 173N


Bandera, TX 78003


830-583-5729


granscountrycabins.com

Tags: Bandera 78003, Bandera Texas, Country Cabins, 2010 pets, Antler Cabins, Bandera Texas known, Cabin Langford

Glass Breakage Sensor Vs Window Sensor

Glass breakage sensors and window sensors help detect break-ins.


In terms of home security, both glass breakage and window sensors are used to monitor the safety and condition of your windows, a prime area of entrance by a would-be burglar. One sensor relies on sound to trigger an alarm, while the other registers an unauthorized window opening.


Design


Glass breakage sensors monitor the area for the sound of shattering glass and splintering wood. Window sensors are two-part devices that attach to the window itself and the frame, sounding an alarm when the window is opened.


Types








Both types of sensors are available in wireless configurations, or can be wired in to your home's alarm system and will trigger the house alarm if set off.


Placement


A glass breakage sensors can be mounted on the wall or ceiling and monitor all windows within its direct path --- it cannot "hear" around corners or through doors. A window sensor must be mounted on or very close to the window it's intended to monitor.


Range


All windows within a 35-foot radius can be monitored by a single glass breakage sensor, so long as there are no doors, walls or other objects to block the sound. Window sensors are only capable of monitoring one window per device.

Tags: breakage sensors, glass breakage, window sensors, windows within

Alternatives To Hanging Ceilings

Suspended ceilings lack a warm feel.


Hanging ceilings are economical and relatively simple to install, making them an excellent choice for institutional settings. However, for a home, they lack the warmth and style that most people desire. If you are looking for an alternative to hanging ceilings, you can consider several options.


Drywall Ceilings


Drywall ceilings are a more versatile alternative to hanging ceilings because they can be plastered or painted in a variety of styles to fit the decor of the room. For a home, they offer a less institutional feel than suspended ceilings, making for a warmer living space. Drywall ceilings are attached directly to the ceiling joists, then plastered and finished according to your preferences.


Stretch Ceilings


Stretch ceilings are made of a thin layer of PVC, which is stretched across the bare ceiling. They are ideally suited to oddly shaped rooms and ceilings because they can be fitted over and around existing architectural elements. Stretch ceilings are quicker to install than drywall, but give a professional look to a room. They are available in a variety of colors and finishes, making it possible to match your ceiling to the look of the room.


Bare Ceilings


Bare ceilings can work in certain settings. Older homes will often have beautiful wood beams that are better left exposed than covered up. These can simply be refinished in a stain or painted to fit the decor of your house. In newer homes, it is generally better to cover up the bare ceilings, but in some cases, such as a basement, you might want to opt for the unfinished look if you are concerned about costs and don't use the area as a living space.


Plywood Ceilings


Plywood ceilings can be used when a simple, quick-to-install ceiling is in order. Plywood will offer extra sound protection compared to an unfinished ceiling. A plywood ceiling can be installed by screwing plywood onto the ceiling joists. The plywood can then be left as-is or given a coat of paint if the room is purely utilitarian. If you are decorating the room, a plywood ceiling can be covered in tile.

Tags: alternative hanging, alternative hanging ceilings, because they, ceiling joists, ceilings because, ceilings because they

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Hang An Indoor Hanging Chair

An indoor hanging chair provides place to sit, relax and enjoy a book. You may like the idea of a hanging chair, but you might not know install it. Safely hanging a chair from the ceiling is not as hard as it looks. You can install a hanging chair with a few basic tools. Much of the hardware for the job comes with the chair.


Instructions


1. Climb the stepladder and use a stud finder to locate a ceiling joist. As a general rule, ceiling joists are spaced 16 inches on center. Follow the instructions provided with your stud finder. Select a spot along the ceiling joist to install the chair.








2. Mark the selected spot on the ceiling with a pencil. This is where you will install the eye hook that came with your chair.


3. Drill a 4- to 5-inch-deep hole at the pencil mark perpendicular to the ceiling, using a 1/4-inch drill bit. This is the pilot hole for the eye hook.


4. Screw the eye hook into the pilot hole. Continue to screw the eye hook into the joist until all of the threading is into the ceiling.


5. Attach the chain or rope-hanging mechanism on the chair to the eye hook as specified in the chair directions. Each model of hanging chair is different, and directions will vary.

Tags: hanging chair, ceiling joist, hook into, pilot hole, stud finder

Air Hog Havoc Micro Heli Information







Air Hog remote-controlled vehicles provide hours of entertainment to kids who prefer active indoor and outdoor play. One of the company's sets of vehicles is the Havoc Micro Heli line of miniature helicopters. This line includes several models that each have different features.


History


The Havoc Micro Heli, as well as all other Air Hog vehicles, are manufactured by Spinmaster Ltd. The Havoc line was released in 2006. Since then, many other Havoc models have been released with updated features.


Components and Function


The Havoc Heli is powered by six AA batteries and operated via a remote-control unit. The helicopter must be charged before flying (20 to 30 minutes of charging provides about five to six minutes of flight time). To operate the helicopter, the transmitter and the helicopter must be set to the same band or frequency. The scientific principles that make the Havoc Micro Heli fly are the same as those at work in full-size helicopters. The user must control the throttle, trimmer and direction sticks to operate the toy. The toy has a main rotor, tail rotor, driving gear and landing gear just like a real helicopter.


Safety


Wait at least 15 minutes after playing with the Havoc Micro Heli before recharging to allow the battery to cool. When you turn the helicopter on, make sure the transmitter is off so as to avoid injury. Place the helicopter on the ground with the tail facing you and the nose pointing away from you for takeoff. Look at the helicopter and not the transmitter when flying. The toy needs an area of at least 10 by 16.5 by 8 feet (width by length by height). Fly in an area with few obstructions (ceiling fans, lamps and vents).


Products


Several versions of the Havoc Micro Heli have been released. The Havoc Stinger (an insect-like, micro helicopter toy) and the Havoc Heli Laser Battle (micro helicopters equipped with lasers for specialized battle) were released in 2007. In 2008, the Gyro Havoc was released as the first Havoc Micro Heli designed for exclusive outdoor use. In 2009 Air Hog released four Havoc helicopters: Havoc Cruiser, Havoc Razor, Havoc Turbo Blast and the UH-60 Black Hawk Havoc. No new Havoc micro helicopters have been released since then (as of 2011).

Tags: Havoc Micro Heli, Micro Heli, Havoc Micro, been released, have been

Air Hogs Havoc Tips

Released in 2007, the Air Hogs Havoc Heli is a miniature remote-controlled helicopter designed for children ages eight and up. Simple to fly with only two control sticks, the Havoc Heli requires a small amount of calibration and preparation before taking flight. Once calibrated, the Havoc Heli offers hours of entertainment due to a rechargeable battery and surprisingly tight controls.


Charging the Battery








Slide down the charge bay door on the front face of your remote controller to reveal the charging cable. Plug the charging cable into the "CHRG" port located just below the cockpit of the helicopter. Give the helicopter approximately 25 minutes to charge completely, disconnect the charge cable and replace it behind the charge bay door. A full charge will warrant five or six minutes of constant flight time. It is not recommended to recharge the battery within 15 minutes of depletion, because the battery will still be quite warm and should be cooled before charging.


Calibrating Trim


Move the power switch on both the helicopter and remote controller to the "ON" position and place the helicopter upright on a flat surface. Press the leftmost control stick upward to lift the helicopter into the air. You will need to calibrate the speed of the rear rotor, which causes the helicopter to rotate clockwise and counterclockwise. If the helicopter rotates to the left, press the "R" button on the trim calibration switch. If the helicopter rotates to the right, press the "L" button on the trim calibration switch. Continue pressing the button until the helicopter flies steady with consistency.


Basic Flight Controls


The left control stick controls the speed of the main rotor, thereby moving the helicopter up and down relative to the direction the left control stick is pressed. The right control stick controls the speed of the rear rotor. To reduce the number of control sticks on the control, Air Hogs configured the Havoc Heli to fly forward when you press the right control stick to the right. The helicopter will fly forward and to the right, requiring the operator to compensate by pushing the right control stick to the left with regular frequency. By alternating lateral pressure on the right control stick, the helicopter can be made to fly in a relatively straight line.


Ideal Flight Environment








The Havoc Heli is relatively lightweight when compared other remote-controlled helicopters. As a result, the miniature chopper is susceptible to strong breezes or gusts from ceiling fans. If possible, close all windows and power down all fans to create an ideal flight environment for your Havoc Heli. Additionally, place any fragile objects on the ground or behind cover to avoid breaking them while you learn fly your helicopter.

Tags: control stick, Havoc Heli, right control, right control stick, button trim

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Decorate A Home With Wood Ceilings

A wood ceiling offers an opportunity for an original approach to decorating.


When planning color schemes for interior spaces, we often overlook floors and ceilings. These two large surface areas of color always play a significant part in creating the personality of a room. Off-white is the trusted go-to color for painted ceilings. However, a wood ceiling offers an opportunity for a more original approach to color planning and interior design. A wood ceiling is intrinsically beautiful and sets the tone for a warm, appealing space. Whether your look is casual elegance, natural, rough-hewn comfort, or sophisticated simplicity, a wood ceiling is a great jumping-off place.


Instructions


1. Work with neutral tones of any color to build a casually elegant color scheme based on a wood ceiling. Determine the value tone (lightness and darkness) of the ceiling. If the ceiling is the lightest element, the floors may be the same tone, or offer contrast with a medium or a darker tone. Lighter tones will open up the space and expand the feeling of airiness. Darker tones will close in the space and make it feel cozy and secure. The wall color value connects ceiling and floor, and may be the same or offer contrast. Furniture coverings should repeat and extend the neutral tones of the walls, ceiling and floor. For contrast, introduce stronger accent colors and texture through pillows and decorative accessories.


2. When the wood ceiling consists of natural, rough-hewn beams and/or weathered wood, an effective design plan could focus on texture. Keeping the walls and floors in neutral tones, include homespun or quilted textures and comfy, overstuffed furniture. Accent floors with hand-loomed or rag rugs; introduce antique rural Americana accessories and bright calico pillows. The interaction of a variety of textures, based upon the rough wood ceiling, makes this approach feel authentic, yet comfortable and relaxed.


3. For a sophisticated approach based on a wood ceiling, strive for smooth, trim lines and subdued colors.


Bare floors; a flat, textured carpet; or bound, single-color area rugs create a sense of clean, uncluttered order. Furniture lines should be simple and sleek, accessorizing rich but understated. Closed storage is essential to this look, keeping clutter under cover. Lighting is an innovative way to accent the space with functional, sculptural forms.

Tags: wood ceiling, neutral tones, based wood, based wood ceiling, ceiling floor

Hang Curtains All The Way At The Ceiling







Ceiling curtains in sheer material make a small room look expansive.


Hanging curtains at the ceiling is a simple yet decorative way to divide a large, multiuse space into smaller sections. The curtains increase privacy but allow for easy removal when the need arises. Mounting curtains along the span of the room is the simplest way of dividing the space; when you wish to open the space, draw the curtains open. When selecting fabric for the curtains, choose thick, durable material that prevents light from passing through. Alternatively, use sheer curtains that let light in but create the illusion of height in a smaller room.


Instructions


1. Measure the vertical distance between the floor and the ceiling by assigning an assistant to hold the lower end of measuring tape on the ground while you access the ceiling on a ladder. Also run the tape across the ceiling where you will install the curtain rods.


2. Cut the ceiling track 1 inch shorter than the length of the ceiling with a hacksaw. If you need to join two or more lengths of tracks to cover the entire span, include the sizes of the joiners in your calculation.


3. Inspect the ceiling joists in the part of the room where you will install the curtains. For joists parallel to walls, use anchors designed for the type of ceiling material. For perpendicular joists, locate and mark the exact location of the joists on the ceiling using a stud finder.


4. Join the tracks together with joiners, if required, before placing them on the ceiling where you want the curtain wall. Whenever possible, mark the locations for the installation holes on the joists. In sections where joist attachments are not accessible, drill holes for drywall anchors. Install the wall anchors into the holes.


5. Mark the locations for ceiling mount brackets every 3 to 5 feet. Screw the mount brackets into the ceiling joists or anchors. To check if the screws are tight, grasp a mount bracket and try to wiggle it with your hand; if it does not give in with the weight, it is secure.


6. Attach the track to the ceiling brackets and place a cap on one of its ends. Slide as many eye slides required into the track, using one for every 5 inches of curtain width, before placing a cap on its other end.








7. Mount the drapes from the slides with drapery hooks.

Tags: before placing, ceiling joists, ceiling where, mount brackets, where will, where will install, will install