Corrugated Metal Ceiling Ideas

Corrugated metal is an inexpensive option to add visual interest to the ceiling in your home. While it may not work for every space, a corrugated metal ceiling will enhance eclectic, rustic and modern design schemes. Once in place, add metallic accents throughout the room to tie the theme together. Introduce soft textural elements to balance the rigid lines of the metal for a visually appealing design.

Full Panels

Create an entire ceiling from panels of corrugated metal to dress up an otherwise drab space. Hang an ornate chandelier or a series of pendant lights to add sparkle to the ceiling. Repeat the metal motif elsewhere using galvanized metal plant pots and other accessories. Choose a bright color for the walls, such as cherry, lime or cerulean, and select textiles with graphic prints and patterns.

Corrugated Tiles

Cut sheets of corrugated metal into tiles to create a pattern on the ceiling. One idea is to cut square tiles and alternate the way they face during installation. The resulting pattern will be a subtle checkerboard pattern. Or cut rectangular tiles and install them subway-tile style. The pattern can run vertically or horizontally, depending on the look you wish to achieve. Hang soft white sheers to balance the metal and add wool throws to the furniture. Layering different textures will keep the room light and fresh. You can also use the checkerboard pattern elsewhere in the room.

Corrugated Stripes

Create a different look by cutting strips of corrugated metal to form stripes on the ceiling. You could choose to install the stripes with decorative tin tiles between each stripe or allow the ceiling to show through. Other options include adding the stripes along the length of the ceiling with recessed lighting installed in every other stripe. Or add a jolt of color to the design by painting tin tiles oxblood red and install them between the stripes.

Corrugated Medallion

If you don't want to commit to an entire ceiling of corrugated metal, experiment with a metal feature, such as a decorative medallion. This idea works best for a living room or bedroom and can be used to showcase a dramatic lighting fixture, such as a drum pendant chandelier. Consider different shapes and sizes for the medallion to create a design that will best suit your living space. A circular medallion might work with a rustic space, while one with scalloped edges would fit a more eclectic room.

Tags: corrugated metal, checkerboard pattern, corrugated metal, entire ceiling, install them

Clean Acoustical Ceiling Tile

Acoustical ceiling tiles, also known as drop ceilings, require special care when cleaning due to their porous nature. Water will cause them to fall apart. Often used in basements and offices, they collect dust over time. Acoustical tiles are prized because they are inexpensive and easy to move aside if work needs to be done inside the ceiling, often the case in basements where the ductwork and pipes are above them. Regular maintenance is the key to cleaning acoustical ceiling tiles.

Instructions

The Steps

1. Cover furniture with a drop cloth so dust and debris from the tiles doesn't land on it. Acoustical tiles may 'shed' some during cleaning. Wear goggles while cleaning.

2. Vacuum in the corners to remove spider webs. Avoid running the vacuum attachment directly on the tiles, as it may damage them.

3. Dust over the surface of the entire surface of each tile with a microfiber dusting cloth. Run the cloth over the tiles lightly so that you do not push or rub the dirt into the porous tiles.

4. Purchase a dry sponge from a janitorial supply store if the tiles are stained and dusting doesn't remove the stains. Dry sponges are made of rubber and do not require water to clean.

5. Rub the dry sponge gently over the stains. The sponge will erase the stain after a few rubs.

Tags: Acoustical tiles, ceiling tiles

Make A Wood Ceiling Grid

Suspended ceilings are one way to cover old, unsightly ceilings. The installation process is simple enough that a do-it-yourselfer can easily finish the task in a short amount of time. The limitation of this type of ceiling is that each ceiling pretty much looks like every other dropped ceiling. New products are available now that make use of wooden main runners and cross tees instead of the traditional metal ones. These create a wood ceiling grid. You can finish the project with traditional ceiling tiles or select wooden tiles available in a variety of profiles.

Instructions

1. Measure and mark a line around the top perimeter of the room that's at least 4 inches below the ceiling joists, using a laser level or carpenter's level.

2. Attach the wooden perimeter molding you selected for the project so that the bottom of the molding rests above the line you drew in Step 1. Use nails long enough to penetrate into the studs at least 1 inch. Place nails no more than 24 inches apart.

3. Draw a scale rendering of the room where you are hanging the wood ceiling grid. Plan the placement of the wooden main runners so they are 25 inches on center apart from each other as they run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. To figure this, measure the width of the room in inches and divide by 25. This tells you the full number of panels you can place. Divide any remainder by 2 because you want smaller ceiling panels to go on either side of the room to give the ceiling a balanced appearance.

4. Complete the scale drawing by measuring the room parallel to the ceiling joists. Measure the length of the room in inches and divide by 25 to find how many cross tees you will place. Divide the remainder, if any, by 2 to determine the size of the outside panels on this part of the grid.

5. Mark the ceiling joists with chalk lines that correspond to the scale drawing measurements. Using the lines that cross the joists at right angles, insert eye bolts in the ceiling joists approximately every 4 feet. Slip one end of a 12-inch piece of 18-gauge wire into each of the eye bolts and twist it to secure the end.

6. Set one end of a piece of main runner into the perimeter molding, using the chalk line as a guide. Screw in a 1/4-inch eye 3-penny lag screw below the first dangling wire that you attached in Step 6. Run the wire through the eye of the lag screw and twist the wire securely back on itself. Continue adding screws and connecting wire along this piece of main runner.

7. Snap an additional piece of main runner onto the first to continue to the opposite wall. Cut the main runners to fit with a circular saw, if necessary. Rest the outside edge of the main runner on top of the perimeter molding.

8. Continue hanging all the remaining main runners, using the chalk lines as your guide. Periodically check the height of the main runners with a laser level to ensure the ceiling height is uniform.

9. Use the chalk lines in the ceiling joists as your placement guide for the wooden cross tees. Snap the components of the wood ceiling grid together. You are now ready to install the wooden ceiling tiles.

Tags: ceiling joists, main runners, main runner, ceiling grid, chalk lines

Install Acoustical Ceilings

Acoustical ceiling tiles, also known as suspended ceilings, add a number of distinct advantages to your home's ceiling applications. You install the material with a gap between the supporting ceiling and the tiles, which allows you to cover unsightly pipes or fixtures in the ceiling. This gap also cuts down on echoes from those walking above and reflects the sound coming from below, making these ceilings an ideal choice for an entertainment area. You can hang these ceilings yourself as long as you are comfortable working on a ladder and can take the time to line everything up carefully for installation.

Instructions

1. Measure down 4 inches from the existing ceiling and make a horizontal pencil mark on the wall. Trace this line across all four walls of the room with a level

2. Run a stud finder along the line you drew and mark the location of both sides of each stud all the way around the room. You must install the perimeter material to the studs to ensure that it will securely hold the ceiling in place.

3. Attach the perimeter molding for your acoustic ceiling in place with 6d finishing nails. At inside corners, butt one piece of molding securely against the corner and butt the next piece on the other wall against the first. For outside corners, miter the end of the two pieces that will meet at a 45-degree angle with tin snips.

4. Cut perimeter molding to fit in the room as necessary with tin snips. Continue to cut and nail until all the perimeter molding is in place.

5. Measure out from your starting wall by 4 feet, working perpendicular to the joists. Snap a chalk line at this location that runs perpendicular to the joists. Repeat every 4 feet along the length of the ceiling until you have created a grid that runs perpendicular to the joists.

6. Screw an eyebolt where the chalk lines meet the joists, installing one on every third joist along the chalk lines. These eyebolts will provide the main support for the acoustical ceiling.

7. Attach lengths of 16-gauge wire to the eyebolts to hold up the main runners of the acoustical ceiling installation. Thread the wire through each eyebolt and twist it upward so that it wraps around itself at least three times for proper support.

8. Tie a string to the bottom of the perimeter molding under one of your chalk lines. Stretch the string across the room and tie it to the bottom of the perimeter molding directly across. This string will ensure that your main support pieces sit level.

9. Hold the first main runner into place against one wall at the start of the string and lower it until the bottom just touches the string. Feed the first 16-gauge wire through the hole in the runner closest to where it lies and twist it up and around at least three times. The runner will be secured tightly in place and sit level with the string.

10. Hang all main runners along each chalk line using the 16-gauge wire and moving the string as necessary to keep each row level. Runners will join together with slots and tabs on each end; cut them as necessary to fit with tin snips.

11. Install the cross tee sections, which work perpendicular to the main runners. These attach to the runners and perimeter molding with slots and tabs, and you should install them perpendicularly to the runners every 2 feet along the way. This creates the characteristic grid shape of the acoustical ceiling. Cut to fit tees as necessary with tin snips.

12. Lay the acoustical ceiling tiles into place and set them securely on the grid. If you lift the tiles at an angle and put one end through, followed by the other, they will sit soundly on the grid pattern.

13. Cut tiles to fit in the grid as necessary with a sharp utility knife. Cut with the finished side up, and cut about 3/8 inch longer than the gap between grid pieces calls for so that the panels can sit on the lips of the grids.

14. Measure 3/8 inch in from all sides of the panel and cut about halfway through, then peel off the small loose strip. This creates the flange that attaches to the grid pieces. Continue to cut and install tiles until the installation is complete.

Tags: perimeter molding, necessary with, with snips, 16-gauge wire, acoustical ceiling, ceiling tiles, chalk lines

Decorate An Indoor Wedding Dance Ceiling With Lights And Tulle

Decorate your reception hall with tulle and lights, for an elegant touch.

Decorating a reception hall with lights and tulle is a time consuming task. However, the results can be enchanting. Check with the reception hall to see what fabrics are allowed as ceiling decoration. Lightweight holiday lights are going to be the most inexpensive way to incorporate mood lighting into your scheme: But again, these can be challenging to hang. Before hanging anything from the ceiling, be sure you have the appropriate anchors, tools and ladders to safely do the job. The reception site can help you figure out which method is best to use for hanging items from the ceiling.

Instructions

Prepare the Tulle and Lights

1. Measure the length of the reception hall from side to side. Hang the tulle and lights using the shorter measurements. If the room is a rectangle, drape the tulle from side to side, not front to back. Shorter distances require less support.

2. Measure the tulle to run the length of the room. If the tulle isn't long enough, tie pieces together. To do this, thread the fishing line through the mesh in the tulle. Measure enough to run the length of the room; then add at least five feet for draping.

3. Wrap the Christmas lights loosely around the length of the tulle starting at one end, and working towards the other. Secure the lights to the tulle, by tying a piece of fishing line around the lights -- and the tulle at the beginning and end -- and every six feet in-between.

4. Repeat these steps to make as many sets of tulle and lights as desired.

Hanging the Tulle and Lights

5. Attach ceiling hooks along the edge of the ceiling. Make sure you have a tall enough ladder, so that you aren't reaching too far. If the venue has drop ceilings, you may be able to tie the tulle and lights directly to the ceiling frame. Ask permission before attaching ceiling hooks, or attaching it directly to the frame.

6. Tie a piece of fishing line to each end of the tulle and lights for hanging. If you will be hanging it from ceiling hooks, you may be able to just loop the lights around the hook. If you are attaching it directly to a ceiling frame, then you need to tie the fishing line around the metal frame piece.

7. Move the ladder to the middle of the room, and attach the middle of the tulle and light strip to the ceiling again using the fishing line. Install another ceiling hook if needed, or tie it directly to the ceiling frame.

8. Move the ladder to the opposite side of the room and attach the other end of the tulle and light strip in the same fashion. Repeat for the rest of the tulle and light strips, until the room is decorated to your liking.

9. Plug extension cords into the lights, using the ladder.

Tags: fishing line, reception hall, tulle lights, ceiling frame, ceiling hooks, directly ceiling

Install Hooks In Concrete Ceilings

How you install a hook into the ceiling depends upon the material you're installing it into. In many cases, it can be as simple as screwing the hook in, as is the case with hooks installed into a wooden ceiling rafter. Hooks installed into a plaster or drywall ceiling, on the other hand, will require the addition of special anchors during installation. If you're installing a hook into a concrete, you'll need to use a few special tools and materials to ensure that your hooks are securely fastened.

Instructions

Install A Ceiling Vent Fan In Your Rv

Ceiling vent fans provide air circulation in the tight quartered RV.

Recreational vehicles, better known as RVs, are mobile camping vehicles. These self-contained rigs tend to have tight and small quarters. As a result, air circulation sometimes feels stifled. Adding a ceiling vent fan helps provide extra circulation throughout the camping cabin, creating a fresher and cooler environment. Most RVs have vents in the ceilings. Use the existing vents to install the needed fan for better air quality. Take your make and model RV to a RV dealership to get the appropriate fan for your rig. Each fan maker may have a different set of brackets, but the basic installation process remains the same.

Instructions

1. Turn off the electricity to the RV and flip the master breaker to "off."

2. Go to the roof of the RV and unscrew the four retaining bolts on the ceiling vent. Go inside and make sure you have removed all screws from the fixture. Gently pry the bracket mounts from the inside and outside of the RV.

3. Scrape off any old caulking used on the brackets. Be gentle. Do not rip the RV ceiling vinyl while you scrape off the old caulk. Pull the three fan wires out from the ceiling on the vent. Typically, these have a red, white and yellow wire with a cap on each.

4. Align the fan to the vent on the roof of the RV. Push the mounting bracket over the fan, then go back inside the RV. Do not screw the retaining bolts in yet.

5. Pull the three fan wires down from the ceiling and twist and crimp them together with the RV wires. Match red to red, white to white and yellow to yellow. Add a wire cap to each set of connected wires and twist down until tight. Push the wires back into the ceiling and place the interior bracket over the vent.

6. Screw the retaining bolts into the vent fan bracket covers. Go onto the roof and seal around the brackets with the marine-based caulk. Go inside and caulk around the vent brackets. You now have a fan ready to go.

Tags: retaining bolts, bracket over, from ceiling, Pull three, Pull three wires, three wires

Install A Beadboard Ceiling

Why settle for a plain, painted ceiling or an unsightly "popcorn" ceiling? Using beadboard panels as a ceiling can create an attractive and cozy feeling in a room. And best of all, beadboard panels are not only cheap, but also easy to install.

Instructions

1. Measure the ceiling surface. Determine how many planks of beadboard you will need, with extra planks for scraps. Beadboard is usually 3 ½ inches wide, 8 feet long and 5/16 inches thick.

2. Prime and paint or stain the beadboard planks. Allow them to dry completely before attaching them to the ceiling.

3. Install the beadboard planks perpendicular to the ceiling joists. You will be able to see the joists if you've removed the old drywall from the ceiling. If you are not planning on removing the drywall, locate the ceiling joists using a stud finder. Run caulk lines on all the joist locations.

4. Using 4d finishing nails, hammer the first board into place, starting with the grooved edge against the wall.

5. Drill pilot holes through the plank's face near the wall and nail the edge to the joists.

6. Slip the grooved end of the next plank under the first plank's tongue. Hold a block of wood against the second plank's tongue and tap it with a hammer, fitting the groove and tongue together snugly. Nail the second plank in place just through the tongue using a nailset. Continue with this method until you reach the last plank.

7. Cut your final plank to fit. Usually, the last plank will be too wide, so use a table or circular saw to cut it to the proper width. Fit the last plank's groove over the tongue of the previous plank, drill pilot holes and nail the last plank through its face as you did with the very first plank. Finally, add your molding to trim the perimeter of the ceiling.

Tags: last plank, beadboard panels, beadboard planks, ceiling Install, ceiling joists

Different Sizes Of Ceiling Light Panels

Light panels diffuse the glare of fluorescent lighting.

Ceiling light panels are clear or textured sheets that are used in drop ceilings to cover the fluorescent lighting tubes found in homes, schools and offices. Most of the panels are functional and practical, but to add to the appearance of your home or office, decorative panels are available, as well. Panels are available in standard sizes that fit the openings in most dropped ceilings, although you can trim most standard panels to fit odd-sized openings. Decorator panels are available in custom sizes and are cut to fit your dimensions.

Uses

Dropped ceilings are used in kitchens, basements and offices. The ceilings consist of metal frames with ceiling tiles and openings for light panels. For lighting purposes, two, 4-foot fluorescent light tubes are used for every 75 square feet of suspended ceiling. Light panels cover the light tubes and diffuse the light, softening the glare of fluorescent lights.

Standard Panels

Standard ceiling light panels are made of acrylic or styrene. The acrylic panels do not yellow over time like styrene panels do. Typical light panels have textures or pebble-like surfaces. Acrylic and styrene panels are available in standard sizes of 2 feet by 4 feet and 2 feet by 2 feet. Standard light panels for offices are also available in larger sizes of 3 feet by 5 feet and 4 feet by 8 feet.

Decorative Panels

Decorative panels are available to give the appearance of looking through a window or skylight. Scenes of the sky with clouds and balloons or the look of tree branches overhead are available. Other styles include stained glass effects, decorative glass or geometric designs that enhance the décor of a home. These light panels are available in standard sizes or they can be cut to fit your fixture. If decorative panels are cut to fit your opening, some of the art work or design may be lost, as these decorative panels are not custom made.

Cutting the Sheets

When ordering decorative ceiling panels, you give the company your dimensions and the sheet arrives ready to install. However, if you buy an acrylic light panel from your local building supply store, you may need to trim the panel to fit. Most stores do not cut the panels for you. When measuring the opening of your fixture, add ¾- to 1-inch to allow for support around the panel. You can cut the acrylic sheet with a scribing knife or a power saw with a blade designed to cut acrylic. A jig saw fitted with a fine-tooth metal blade is another option to get a smooth cut with no jagged edges. Place masking tape along the cut line before you cut to prevent breakage of this fragile material.

Tags: feet feet, feet feet feet, light panels, available standard, available standard sizes, decorative panels

Fan Cool Your Body

Fans cool you, not the room

A fan acts as an inside breeze, or perhaps, more aptly, a personalized breeze.

Fans move air, so they don't actually change the temperature of the environment. For example, if you have a ceiling fan in your living room, the actions of the fan don't make the living room a few degrees cooler.

The air being circulated does not change temperature. Heat exchange has to occur for temperature changes, and fans don't do that.

What fans do is circulate the air around an object. That air may have had a heat exchange. Replacing the heated air with non-heated air, creates a feeling of coolness--sort of like a cool breeze on a hot summer day.

Convection

When your body is hot, your brain sends a signal to get rid of some of the heat. Your blood vessels dilate, which causes more blood to travel through the vessels.

This warmed blood is brought to the surface of the skin to be cooled.

Dilation can be seen when a person is overheated and looks flushed. The flushing is the blood racing to the skin's surface and pooling in an effort to be cooled.

When a fan blows across hot skin, it's pushing off some of that heat. It's like blowing on a hot bite of food.

Evaporation

You sweat for a reason, and that reason is to cool down. Sweat cools by evaporation. As sweat evaporates, it takes heat with it. However, if you are standing in an area with no air circulation, your sweat can cause a cloud of you-humidity.

Evaporation is the process of a liquid becoming a gas---your sweat is being sucked up into the air.

If it doesn't move from your immediate area, that can translate in to humidity, or feeling stuffy and hot.

Fans circulate the air. They blow out the stuffy air, and bring in new air.

Tags: change temperature, living room

Charge For House Painting

If you have a steady hand, a good work ethic and need to earn some extra income, you may want to try painting houses. Besides being a good painter, and paying attention to detail, you will need to know what to charge for the jobs you do. Rates and formulas vary, depending on whether you are painting the interior or exterior of a home. Your charges will include labor, supplies, ceiling height and the size of the surface to be painted.

Instructions

1. Determine the square footage of the area to be painted. Measure and multiply the width of each wall by the height and include the ceiling. Add those numbers. (Example: If Wall No. 1 is 10 feet high by 10 feet wide, Wall No. 2 is 12 feet by 10 feet, Wall No. 3 is 10 by 10 and Wall No. 4 is 12 by 10, you will have 420 square feet to paint. Be sure to count every flat surface to be painted and estimate more if the ceiling is vaulted.

2. Consider the height of the room. In rooms with high ceilings, measure the upper portion of the room separately, because you should charge more for areas you need to paint from a ladder. If a room is 10 by 12, but has 12-foot ceilings, calculate the 288 square feet below the 8-foot line separately from the remaining 176 square feet, which are above the 8-foot line.

3. Decide what your standard square-foot rate will be. Depending on your experience and the going rate in the area where you live, charge between $1.50 and $3.50 per square foot. Base your square-foot rate on how much you want to make per hour and how fast you can complete the job. For instance, if you want to make $100 per hour and you can paint a 10-by-12 room with 10-foot ceilings in 5 hours, you'll want to make at least $500 in 5 hours. If the room has 420 square feet, you will charge $1.19 per square foot. If you think that is low, it is. You aren't done calculating.

4. Determine the cost of your materials and incidentals. They include transportation, a ladder or other equipment rentals, paint (if you are paying for it), tape, tarps and paint brushes. Add the cost of all the items and divide by the number of square feet you are painting. For example, if you are painting 420 square feet and your materials cost $210, you can safely add 50 cents to your square-foot price.

5. Based on the examples, if your room is 420 square feet and your per-hour labor cost is $1.19 and your materials cost about 50 cents per square foot, you can charge $2.19 per square foot--or $709.80 to paint the room.

Tags: square feet, square foot, want make, your materials, 8-foot line, charge square, cost your

Doityourself Builtin Bookcase

Make your own built-in bookcase unit.

Built-in bookcases add a seamless feel to a room's decor and look more sophisticated than standalone bookshelves. Building built-in bookcases is very similar to building other bookcases and is the kind of project that most do-it-yourself enthusiasts will find enjoyable. Basic woodworking knowledge is necessary to construct a built-in bookcase, but you don't have to be a master carpenter to pull off a professional-looking unit.

Instructions

1. Measure the area where you want to install the bookcase. You need the height of the bookcase and the width. The width shouldn't be more than 40 inches so that the shelves will hold up without sagging under the weight of the books or other objects you'll place on them. Decide on the distance between the shelves; it typically measures between 7 and 14 inches.

2. Take 6 inches off the height of the shelves and divide it by the distance you decided on between shelves to get the number of shelves. For example, if your bookcase is 76 inches high, and you want 7 inches between shelves, divide 70 by 7 to get 10 as the number of shelves you'll need.

3. Cut two lengths of the 1-inch by 12-inch lumber to the height for the sides of the bookcase. Take an inch off the width measurement. Cut two pieces to this length for the bottom and top of the bookcase, and as many pieces as needed for the shelves as well.

4. Measure the exact thickness of the lumber, as the actual thickness is often slightly less than the stated thickness. Set the router to cuts 1/2-inch deep and a fraction wider than the real thickness of the lumber. Place the two side planks flat on a work surface, side by side.

5. Measure in 3 inches from either end of the side planks, and then use the router to make a cut across both planks at this point. Make subsequent cuts across the planks at the desired distance between every shelf. These cuts will hold the shelves and top and bottom of the bookcase.

6. Sand all the components of the bookshelves at this point. Paint or varnish them as well, and leave them to dry before assembly.

7. Position the two side pieces on their sides, with the cuts facing each other. Apply a line of glue to each cut on the sides, and then slot the top, bottom and shelves into the cuts on the sides. Check that the shelves are perpendicular to the sides with the square, then clamp the unit together and leave it to dry for an hour.

8. Secure the shelves and top/bottom in place with the 2-inch nails through the side panels into the abutting ends of the shelves. Stand the bookcase upright in position. Toe-screw --- angle the screw --- the bookcase to the wall, floor and ceiling through the corners and sides of the bookcase.

9. Cut the molding to two pieces that are the height of the bookcase and two that measure the width. Use the miter box and saw to cut the ends to 45-degree angles. Position the molding around the bookcase like a frame, with the mitered ends forming corners. The molding on the top and bottom will cover up the 3-inch gap between the ends of the sides and the top and bottom panels.

10. Secure the molding in place with finishing nails around the perimeter. Apply wood putty to the nail holes in the molding, and then retouch with paint/varnish as necessary to finish the built-in bookcase.

Tags: between shelves, built-in bookcase, bottom bookcase, distance between, height bookcase, number shelves, place with

Use A Uniform Load Span Chart For Floor Joists

When building a house, it is a good idea to get informed about the building materials you will be using. This is especially important when considering floor joists. Because the joists can support not just the floor but also the ceiling of the floor below, load bearing capacities must be considered. Uniform load span charts have valuable information, but can be a little tricky to understand.

Instructions

1. Remember that there are three classifications for loading on a floor system. They include top-live, top-dead and bottom-dead. For example, a loading of 45 psf, or pounds per square foot, will be 30 psf top-live, 10 psf top-dead and 5 psf bottom-dead--or 30-10-5. This information will help you make better use of a uniform load span chart for floor joists.

2. Use the designation "dead loads" when referring to the weight of such building materials as subfloor, flooring tile, sheetrock, joists and more. Top-load refers to the flooring material that can be above the joist, and bottom-load refers to the Sheetrock for the ceiling below the joist. You can use the uniform load span chart cam help you decide the appropriate thickness and strength of the floor joists according to the materials you plan to use for your ceiling and your floor as well as the span the joist must stretch.

3. Consider that "live loads" can mean snow, wind or even people. Building codes require floor systems to withstand more than they will face in everyday life, just so the fluctuation that can happen with live loads will be covered.

4. Take in consideration stiffness ratios. You will find these ratios listed with an "L" before it when you use the uniform load span chart for floor joists. This number is important because it tells you how stiff the joist will be as it spans a distance in a building. Generally speaking, the higher the number, the better. An L/715 floor is stiffer than an L/315 floor. Code dictates that the joist stiffness should be at least L/360.

5. Look for camber or crown when considering floor joists. This information may not be found when you use uniform load span charts for floor joists, but is worth inquiring after when in the market for floor joists. The camber refers to a slight upward curve of the joist, which is helpful to compensate for dead loads. Over time, dead loads can cause the floor joists to straighten. If the floor joists have no camber, they can curve downward over time.

Tags: floor joists, load span, dead loads, floor joists, load span chart, uniform load, uniform load span

Cheap Way To Install Ceiling Tiles

Ceiling tiles come in a variety of styles and materials--from simulated wood to copper metal to porcelain. You will also discover many different colors are available. If you would like to cover up your old ceiling with something new and different but only have a small budget, there are also several inexpensive ways to do it. Keeping an eye on finances does not mean you have to keep looking at that old popcorn-style ceiling.

Dropped Ceilings

A drop ceiling is one that is suspended above the floor and hangs about 1 foot or so from the top of the ceiling joists. This ceiling is a popular alternative to tiles or paint because it offers several advantages. The first is the ability to install recessed lights into the tiles themselves. The other is the ability to install speakers, piping or wiring in the ceiling. In addition, this alternative is relatively inexpensive and provides a clean, consistent and professional finish to the room.

Simulated Wood Tiles

Another option is simulated wood tiling. With today's advancements in printing techniques, simulated wood grains are more lifelike and realistic than ever before. These tiles are also inexpensive. Made from materials like plastic resin, they can be produced in mass quantities at little cost. The savings for you and the appearance are strong points for this solution. You can also complete this installation yourself, provided you have a staging device like a scaffold or scissors lift to assist you.

Plastic Ceiling Tiles

Plastic ceiling tiles are also inexpensive. They are ideal for the ceiling makeovers, because they can be purchased in large quantities at a discount. These tiles must be installed over a flat ceiling, however. If your basement is unfinished, you will have to install a layer of plywood sub-ceiling or opt for the drop ceiling alternative. You will find plastic tiles at a tile store or a home improvement outlet. Available in a number of colors and patterns, they will match nearly every interior as well.

Tags: simulated wood, ability install, also inexpensive, Ceiling Tiles, drop ceiling

The Best Way To Fit Celotex Into A Loft

Lofts need good insulation

Celotex insulation is one of the better forms of board insulation that can be used under floors, in walls, in ceilings and in lofts. As it comes in large pieces of board, there are many ways it can be fit into lofts. Determining which way is best should be based upon the dimensions of the space you are trying to fit it into.

Cutting it Yourself

If you're trying to save money on the installation of your Celotex, buy large pieces of it wholesale and then cut it yourself. Measure the areas where you want to install your Celotex insulation and then buy enough boards to fill more then that space. Then use the proper tools to cut the boards apart. As these Celotex pieces of insulation are rather thick, which helps it insulate so well, use a large utility knife or handsaw to cut the pieces according to the measurements you have made in the areas where the insulation is to be installed in the loft. The doorway or opening where you must fit these pieces through must also be taken into account--in order to squeeze these pieces through the door, you may have to cut some of your measured pieces in half.

Have it Cut to Size

A number of insulation suppliers will cut the insulation to exactly the sizes and shapes you need. This can be done for a cost, as they will have to take your measurements and cut all of the insulation for the loft themselves and then provide it to you prior to installation. You should also give them the dimensions of the doorway or opening you will have to fit the insulation through, so they can plan for that when doing the cutting. This is the fastest and easiest way to fit Celotex boards into your loft if you have some money to spend but want the insulation to be ready and simple to install when you receive it.

Determine the Thickness of Insulation

Celotex makes its boards in varying degrees of thickness, ranging from 12mm to 200mm, providing different degrees of insulation. You should first determine the amount of thickness you want, as this will effect your total cost. Particularly if you opt for thicker boards, you may want to pay someone to cut your pieces for you so that they will easily fit into your loft.

Tags: areas where, Celotex insulation, doorway opening, have some, into your, into your loft, large pieces

Install Armstrong Tin Type Ceiling

Decorative metal tiles turn a plain ceiling into something dramatic. Armstrong ceiling tiles are 24 3/8 inches wide and 48 3/8 inches long. Trimming tiles to fit leaves an unsightly break in the pattern, so only full tiles are installed. Border strips cover the space between the last full tiles and the edge of the ceiling, leaving a tidy finish. Before installing the tiles, cover the ceiling with a layer of 3/8-inch plywood or oriented strand board, fastening it securely to the ceiling joists. You will need at least one helper.

Instructions

1. Measure the edge of the ceiling along one wall, then divide the measurement in half. Mark the ceiling at the halfway point with a pencil or marker. Repeat on the opposite wall.

If one of the two opposing walls is longer than the other, measure and mark the center point of longer wall only, then use a framing square to start a straight line out from the center point. Place the framing square flat against the ceiling with one leg along the wall and the point -- or 90-degree angle -- of the square aligned with the pencil mark. Trace the perpendicular leg of the square onto the ceiling with a pencil. Repeat to mark the center of the ceiling edge along the two remaining walls, or use a framing square to mark the center point of the longer of the two.

2. Stretch a chalk line straight across the ceiling form one center mark to the opposite mark, asking a helper to hold one end of the line. Pull the line taut and snap it to mark the ceiling. Repeat across the marks on the two perpendicular edges of the ceiling.

If you used a framing square to begin a straight line on the ceiling, hold the chalk line at the pencil line while your helper stretches the chalk line across the ceiling to the opposite wall. Adjust the chalk line left or right until it aligns with the pencil line from the framing square, then snap the line against the ceiling. Repeat to mark the ceiling in the opposite direction. The point where the two chalk lines intersect is the center of the room and where you will begin installing the panels.

3. Decide which direction to orient the panels on the ceiling.

4. Measure along a chalk line from the center point of the room to a wall. Divide that measurement by either 24 or 48 inches, depending on which layout you prefer, to determine how many full panels will fit. The 3/4-inch excess of the full width or length of the panels overlaps and is not figured into the installed dimensions.

5. Mark the chalk line with a pencil to show where the last full panel will end, then measure the space from the pencil mark to the edge of the ceiling. The space will be covered by the border.

6. Measure again from the center to the edge of the ceiling in each direction. If the space past the last full panel is significantly different on one or more walls, consider snapping new chalk lines on the ceiling. Adjusting the intersecting lines in one direction or another can help minimize the space difference, resulting in a more balanced border.

7. Cut metal ceiling tile border trim strips to the width of the perimeter space plus 1 inch with metal snips.

8. Place the first border strip flat against the ceiling. If there is a decorative or finished side, it should face down toward you. Align the edge of the border with the edge of the ceiling along the wall.

9. Fasten the border to the ceiling as close to the edges of the strip as possible using 1 1/4-inch wire nails and a tack hammer. Armstrong does not specify spacing for the nails, so use aesthetics as your guide.

10. Position the next border strip at the end of the first. Overlap the ends where they meet by approximately 3/4 inch but not less than 1/2 inch. Fasten the strip with wire nails as you did with the first strip. Continue around the room until the ceiling border is complete.

11. Place the first full metal tile panel flat against the ceiling, decorative side facing out. Align the panel with two perpendicular, intersecting chalk lines at the center of the room.

12. Hammer one 1 1/4-inch cone-head nail through the center of the panel and into the ceiling. Decorative, cone-head nails are slender, and as the name implies, the heads are cone-shaped. Nail the perimeter of the panel to the ceiling with 1 1/4-inch wire nails placed beside the raised nubs around the panel edges. Do not nail through or flatten the nubs with the hammer.

13. Set the second panel in place beside the first. Slide its edge onto the edge of the first panel until the nubs along the two interlock or nest. Fasten the second panel with one cone-head nail through the center and wire nails around the edges as you did with the first panel. Continue in this manner until the ceiling is covered.

14. Drive one cone-head nail through the nubs around the perimeter of the panels where they overlap, spacing the nails approximately 6 inches apart. Add another cone nail through each corner where four panels overlap.

Tags: chalk line, edge ceiling, framing square, nail through, with pencil

The Best Ways To Hang Crystal Prisms

Crystals usually come with a length of very thin fishing wire strung through them so they are ready to hang. Your best guide for hanging one is finding a place where it can fully catch the light from outside.

Window

Windows are the most popular place to hang a crystal. Press a push pin in the top of your window frame and drape the string over it, or use a suction cup with a hook to hang it.

Car Mirror

Your car's rear view mirror is another place for a crystal. Small crystals are best in cards. Make sure its reflected rays don't interfere with your vision and don't hang it so low that it bangs into the dashboard.

Stands

You can purchase a stand for the crystal to dangle from so that you can place it on any flat surface, including tables, counters, desks or window sills

Ribbon

Using a ribbon to display a prism. When following the practice of feng shui, red ribbon supports your intentions when you hang a crystal, such as putting a heart-shaped one in your bedroom to improve your love life.

Ceiling

The ceiling is a good spot for hanging crystals because they will be out of reach of pets and children. Push pins or tacks are handy for the job; dab them with paint the color of your ceiling so they blend in.

Collection

Display your crystals as a group. Install a decorative bar or a curtain rod and hang crystals of various colors and different string lengths from it.

Tags: hang crystal

Cheap Hotels In Lahaina Hawaii

A Maui sunset stays in your mind.

On an island with eye-popping mega-resorts lining white beaches, it is nice to know that there are some properties that can be had for a much lower nightly rate. In Lahaina town, 24 miles west of Kahului Airport in Maui, there are a handful of more inexpensive hotels that will put you within easy reach of restaurants, pubs, shops, art galleries and historic sites in this former whaling town. Just five miles to the north are the famed beaches of Ka'anapali.

Old Lahaina House

This small property, just a two-minute walk south of the wharf at Front Street, is in a casual residential area. The lodging has four rooms with private baths, and they are decorated in a Hawaiian motif. The Riviera Room overlooks a flower-decked garden complete with fountains and has its own private lanai. The Poolside Room has sliding glass doors leading to the swimming pool and deck area. All rooms have air-conditioning and ceiling fans, TV and Wi-Fi.

Old Lahaina House also offers romance packages, flower lei greetings and a rental car service that includes a mini-electric car. The property is close to several restaurants, including the Bamboo Grill, the Lahaina Grill and Betty's Beach Caf . The Feast at Lele, a waterfront luau celebration, is two minutes away.

Old Lahaina House

407 Ilikahi St.

Lahaina, Maui, HI 96761

808-667-4663

oldlahaina.com

Makai Inn

This two-story, no-frills property on the northern edge of Lahaina town is on the oceanfront. The 18 units are individually designed and range from small studio apartments of 400 square feet each to larger two-bedroom units of roughly 800 square feet. The Makai Inn is built in a horseshoe shape around a courtyard garden. The ends of the "horseshoe" have the four largest rooms, all with oceanfront balconies. The rooms don't have phones or TVs. Wireless Internet is available, though.

Lahaina's party district is a 20-minute walk and if you are looking for a white sand beach, walk toward the center of town and you will find one within 10 minutes. The Canoe Restaurant is a half-block toward town, and the Fu Lin Chinese Restaurant is on the other side of that.

Makai Inn

1415 Front St.

Lahaina, Maui, HI 96761

808-662-3200

makaiinn.net

Best Western Pioneer Inn

Jack London stayed here. So did W.C. Fields, Frank Sinatra and Spencer Tracy. Built in 1901, the Pioneer Inn has had more than a century to entertain the famous, the not so famous and perhaps those of questionable character. The Pioneer Inn remains one of the best hotel bargains in Lahaina, and it is in the heart of all the action.

The plantation-style structure sits 50 feet from Lahaina Harbor and is now under the Best Western brand. The guest rooms have been remodeled, but with a nod to the property's vintage charm. High ceilings, old-fashioned bathrooms and period furnishings all keep that distinctive whaler town charm alive.

This is the party section of Lahaina, so the quietest rooms will be facing the courtyard or the huge banyan tree (it covers one square block and is itself a tourist attraction) just next door. The property is surrounded by restaurants, pubs, shops and galleries.

Best Western Pioneer Inn

658 Wharf St.

Lahaina, Maui, HI 96761

808-661-3636

pioneerinnmaui.com

Tags: Best Western, Lahaina House, Lahaina Maui, Lahaina Maui 96761, Maui 96761

Texture Drywall Ceilings

Drywall ceilings can look fine with plain old flat paint, but it does tend to highlight every ridge and flaw in the surface. At the very least, it's also boring. Textured paint has sand or other materials in it that add a rocky or bumpy look when it's applied. Texturing a drywall ceiling also gives it depth and scatters light and shadow over it, which has the effect of muting flaws and makes the surface more interesting.

Instructions

1. Use a screwdriver to remove all ceiling fixtures. Move out any furniture and spread out tarps.

2. Brush ceiling primer along the edges of the ceiling with a paintbrush. Use a roller to cover the rest of the ceiling with primer. Allow it to dry overnight.

3. Use a paintbrush to apply textured paint along one edge of the ceiling, spanning 5 feet to 6 feet. Use a roller to cover 10 square feet to 15 square feet on the ceiling. Apply the paint slowly and spread it out evenly.

4. Move to the next section and repeat the process, brushing textured paint along the edge and then out into the middle of the ceiling.

5. Repeat, working in sections and blend them together at the perimeter. Step back after applying each section to make sure it appears consistent.

Tags: along edge, ceiling with, paint along, paint along edge, roller cover

Use Reflective Ceilings & Walls To Enlarge Space

Large mirrors open up a space, making it seem twice as big.

If you are dealing with a small room, you can feel cramped in the space once you bring in all of your furniture. You have a few decorating options which will make the room appear more open and spacious and alleviate these tight feelings. One of these options is to use mirrors. The reflective surfaces create the illusion of extended space.

Instructions

1. Attach large unframed mirrors on the ceiling to cover the entire surface or at the very least a large section of the ceiling in the center of the room. You will see the walls extended upward by looking up into a mirrored surface, which gives you the feeling that the room is taller. Squeeze construction adhesive on the back of the mirrors in a zig zag. Press the mirrors onto the ceiling, and then secure the edges with mirror side clips.

2. Attach a shiny-surfaced light fixture, such as a brass fixture, to the ceiling to bring in more light. Use one with hanging crystals like a chandelier to reflect more light around the area.

3. Hang mirrors behind a work of art such as a sculpture to allow a view of all sides at once, which makes the area around the art more open.

4. Place large unframed mirrors on a portion of wall to extend the room. The large mirrors make you see double and feel as if the room continues even when it doesn't. Use construction adhesive on the back of the mirrors to attach them to the wall, and then secure the edges with mirror side clips.

5. Set up multiple small mirrors on a wall at various random locations so that they are staggered over a portion of the wall. This doesn't create the illusion of the room being extended or enlarged, but does reflect light and create the feeling of windows and a more open space. Hang the mirrors by the wires or brackets that typically are on the back. Drill screws into the walls to hold them.

6. Hang large framed mirrors on the wall as if they are windows into other rooms in the house. Use a stud finder to locate studs for the mirrors. Drill 3-inch screws into the beams to hold the mirrors.

7. Lean large framed floor-to-ceiling mirrors up against a wall almost like doorways into another room. Placing each at a slight angle to the wall allows you to set it up without the need for any anchors or screws.

8. Set up candles to reflect in the room to help it illuminate. Place them on tables to catch refection in wall or ceiling mirrors and other materials. You can also use candle holder sconces on the wall on either side if a mirror to cast light and open the room.

9. Place mirrors or other reflective surfaces such as shiny metals across from windows to capture natural light. The reflected light is sent into the room and can shine off of other reflective surfaces.

Tags: more open, reflective surfaces, adhesive back, adhesive back mirrors, back mirrors

Install Usg Gypsum Wallboard

Wallboard is sealed using a tray, knife and compound

USG gypsum wallboard--also known as drywall--comes in 4-by-8-foot sheets or larger. Half-inch-width wallboard is applied to walls with wallboard nails, and 5/8-inch wallboard is applied to ceilings using wallboard screws. The wallboard is attached to wall studs or ceiling joists, and large sections are cut to size using a tradesman's knife. Smaller areas like receptacle or switch boxes are cut out using small wallboard saws. Once installed, the wallboard joints are sealed with mesh tape, corner beading and then smeared with compound.

Instructions

1. Place the first piece of wallboard in one corner of the ceiling using 1-5/8-inch wallboard screws. Attach the screws to the joists, one screw every 8 inches.

2. Measure and cut the next section of ceiling wallboard: After marking the wallboard, use a chalk line to create the line that needs to be cut. Run a tradesman's knife along the chalk line. Bend the wallboard on the other side to the chalk line. This will break the wallboard along the chalk line. Now run the knife along the crease on the inside of the break, and the wallboard will be separated. Lift the wallboard into position on the ceiling, and screw it into place. Complete the rest of the ceiling in the same way, and then follow the same process to install the wallboard on the walls, but use 1-5/8-inch wallboard nails instead of screws.

3. Apply mesh tape--sticky side to the wall--along all wallboard joints. Cut the tape when necessary using scissors. Make sure the joint runs down the center of the strip of mesh tape. For exterior corners (such as corners of built-in wardrobes), nail strips of corner beading over the joint.

4. Pour some wallboard compound into a wallboard tray. Scoop out some compound onto one side of a 6-inch wallboard knife, and smear it over all mesh tape/corner beading areas, feathering it out. That is, smear the compound past the edge of the tape/beading onto the wall, decreasing the thickness of the compound as you go. Also cover all screw/nail heads with compound. Wait for the compound to dry completely--usually 24 hours or more.

5. Sand all compound areas with medium sandpaper to remove all ridges or bumps. Wear a dust mask. If any mesh tape or nail/screw heads can be seen, apply a second coat of compound, wait for it to dry and sand again.

Tags: chalk line, mesh tape, 8-inch wallboard, corner beading, along chalk, along chalk line, break wallboard

Find Cheap Discount Bathroom Tiles

Replacing damaged tiles doesn't have to break the bank.

Although tile often seems cheap based on the per-piece price, the cost can definitely creep up, especially if you need to tile a large space. Getting a little bit creative with your design scheme and looking in places other than your local flooring store can save you a decent chunk of change, reducing your overall renovation cost and allowing you to spend your hard-earned money elsewhere.

Couple Sales with Coupons

Perhaps the simplest way to get cheap, discounted bathroom tiles is by combining a store coupon with a sale. Most hardware and flooring stores have at least one sale a year in which everything is discounted. If you can track down a store coupon at the same time, you can save a decent amount of money on your project without compromising quality or appearance.

Mix and Match

Most retailers will mark a certain style down once inventory gets so low that there aren't enough to complete the average project. For those set on using the exact same tile throughout, this can be a problem. When trying to save money, however, picking a few different discounted tiles in complementary designs or colors can give you the number of tiles you need for a fraction of the cost of purchasing all one type. In addition, using a few different types of tile often lends itself to flooring layouts that are much more eye-catching than the standard uniform appearance. Just ensure the tiles are the same thickness to prevent any headaches during installation.

Cut It Yourself

Squares and rectangles are the most popular shapes when it comes to tiling, and anything other than these can cost significantly more. To save money while still getting the shape you want, purchase discounted square tiles and cut them to shape with a wet saw. While this will definitely add some extra time to your project, you'll end up with the look you love for a fraction of the cost. For most people, the extra work is worth it.

Visit Factory Outlets or Wholesalers

Heading to a factory outlet or wholesale tile store is often the best way to get cheap discounted tiles for your project. Factory outlets often sell irregular tiles (referred to as "seconds") to the public rather than sending them off to a retailer. And wholesale stores, which typically cater to construction companies and tile installers, often sell to the public as well. In some cases, this will require a membership fee, and some retailers only offer public sales once or twice a year. With some looking, however, you can get the tile you love at cost rather than paying the markup of a flooring or home improvement store.

Go Online

From Internet classifieds listings, you can often find discounted tiles online. Check your local classifieds for pick-up options; oftentimes, private contractors will sell unused tile at cost or below to recoup some money and free up storage. You can also find tiles at auction sites, although shipping may be a problem cost-wise depending on the seller.

Tags: discounted tiles, your project, cheap discounted, fraction cost, often sell

Replace Ceiling Exhaust Fan

Replace Ceiling Exhaust Fan

Exhaust fans are a necessity for eliminating odors, ensuring good ventilation, and reducing moisture that leads to mold and mildew. If is often necessary to replace a malfunctioning or inadequate fan with a newer or more full-featured model. Modern exhaust fans are simple to wire and install, with adjustable brackets, color-coded wiring and detailed connection instructions. Replacing exhaust fans takes approximately an hour, but care and attention are always important when dealing with electricity.

Instructions

1. Measure the existing fan and purchase a new fan as close in size to the original as possible. This often allows the housing to be reused from the previous unit, saving time and complexity in installation.

2. Turn the power off to the fan, remove the grill cover and check the wires with a voltage detector to verify that there is no power to the unit.

3. Remove the old motor screws and detach the wiring harness so the motor will come loose from the housing. Unhook the vent's duct clips to release the duct from the housing also.

4. Disconnect the old housing by unscrewing its holders from the joists and pulling it through the hole in the ceiling. Be careful not to damage the hole in the ceiling material when removing the housing.

5. Place the new housing in the hole made for the old fan. If it is too small for the new housing, use a drywall saw to enlarge the hole to fit the housing. Do this by drawing around the housing with a pencil while holding it up to the ceiling. Cut the hole larger and then insert the housing into the hole.

6. Connect the housing to the joists and reconnect the existing ducting. Use the clips to make sure it is secure to the housing and will not come loose over time because of the fan's vibration.

7. Attach the motor and wiring for the fan, using wire nuts and electrical tape to secure the wires safely. Completely cover any exposed area of wire with electrical tape or the unit may short out or cause a fire. Install the new grate over the unit and turn the power back on to test for proper operation.

Tags: Ceiling Exhaust, come loose, electrical tape, exhaust fans, from housing, hole ceiling

Change The Ceiling Fan Direction For Seasons

Ceilings fans provide comfort to your home, regardless of the season.

Ceiling fans are found in almost all new homes. The devices produce air circulation and a cool breeze throughout the hot summer months. What some people don't realize is that ceiling fans can also be used to spread warm air in the room. These fans can change the temperature by as much as a degree or 2, which in turn causes the heater and air conditioner to run less frequently. While 2 degrees sounds like a small amount, it does make a noticeable difference in utility costs over the course of a year.

Instructions

1. Turn the fan's power off and wait for the blades to stop spinning.

2. Locate the small direction-controlling switch on the fan. The switch is generally below the fan blades on the piece that the lights connect to.

3. Turn the fan on low speed and take note of which direction the fan turns. The best way to do this is to stand directly beneath the fan and look up at it.

4. Flip the directional switch so the fan turns counterclockwise during the warm seasons. This provides a constant breeze and flow of air circulation.

5. Flip the switch so the fan turns clockwise during the cold seasons. This takes the warm air from the ceiling and spreads it throughout the room.

Tags: seasons This, switch turns

Install Corrugated Metal On My Porch Ceiling

A painted corrugated panel for porch ceiling.

Corrugated metal is a lightweight, tough, practical, weather-resistant material. It is used primarily for roofs and sides of buildings such as barns or sheds. It can be obtained in a variety of metals---galvanized steel, stainless steel, painted steel, aluminum---and in a variety of weights (thickness of metal). There also are many styles, denoted by differences in the "bumps" of ridge tops and the overall height of the material. The most common is 2 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch, used on barns, sheds and other structures. Some manufacturers offer perforated or lattice styles, with holes in the metal.

Instructions

1. Measure the ceiling where you want to install corrugated metal and calculate the square footage: width times length. Most corrugated panels are 27 1/2 inches wide. The standard length is 8 feet, but you can buy panels 10, 12 or even 20 feet long. Panels are light but flexible and unwieldy, and longer lengths can be especially hard to handle although they can reduce the number of seams in the ceiling. When you calculate how many panels to buy, allow for overlap, generally one full ridge or about 2 1/2 inches. Some panels have tabs---one panel slides into the tab of the next---which eliminates overlaps.