Aim Harley Davidson Auxiliary Lights

Properly aim auxiliary lights to increase visibility.

Many Harley-Davidson FL family models come equipped with stock auxiliary lamps -- or passing lamps -- mounted to the front forks. Other models may have them added as optional equipment. The auxiliary lights increase the forward light output and increase visibility for the rider. Aim auxiliary lights relative to the headlight to prevent blinding oncoming traffic and increase road illumination immediately in front of the bike.

Instructions

1. Ensure that the tire pressure is correct for the year, make and model of the bike. Fill the fuel tank. Verify that the suspension is adjusted for the weight of the principal rider and that any normal ballast, such as items in the fork bag and saddlebags, is on the bike.

2. Park the bike on firm, level ground 25 feet from a wall. Have a helper mount the bike and hold it upright and level with the front wheel pointed straight forward.

3. Measure the height from the ground to the center of the headlight by using a tape measure. Use a marker to mark a horizontal line on the wall 2.1 inches lower than the headlight measurement.

4. Turn on the headlight high beam and draw a vertical line through the horizontal line at the center of the brightest part of the high-beam illumination area. Turn the headlight off.

5. Measure the distance between the horizontal centerline of the headlight and the horizontal centerlines of the auxiliary lights. Mark the horizontal centerlines for the auxiliary lights relative to the headlight marks on the wall by using a tape measure and marker.

6. Measure the distance between the vertical centerline of the headlight and the vertical centerlines of the auxiliary lights. Mark the vertical centerlines for the auxiliary lights relative to the headlight marks on the wall by using a tape measure and marker.

7. Loosen the turn signal mounting screws by using a ratchet and Allen driver. Remove the turn signals from the mounting bracket.

8. Loosen the auxiliary light adjuster nut by using a flare-nut socket and ratchet. Aim each auxiliary light so that the high-intensity light zone is just below and to the right of the corresponding auxiliary light marks on the wall.

9. Torque the auxiliary light adjuster nut to 18 foot-pounds by using a foot-pound torque wrench and flare-nut socket. Recheck the aim of the auxiliary lights after tightening.

10. Install the turn signals and start the screws. Make certain that the turn signal wiring fits properly in the wiring slot and that it is not pinched. Tighten the turn signal screws alternately to 36 to 60 inch-pounds of torque by using an inch-pound torque wrench and Allen driver.

Tags: auxiliary lights, auxiliary light, centerlines auxiliary, centerlines auxiliary lights, auxiliary lights relative

Measure Cathedral Ceilings

A cathedral ceiling is a sloped ceiling with equal rise on all sides, often ending in a peak in the center of the room. These types of ceilings give an open feel to a floor plan and can make rooms look larger and feel more spacious. If you want to paint your cathedral ceiling, you'll need a measurement of surface area to determine how much paint you'll need for the entire ceiling.

Instructions

1. Divide the ceiling into individual triangles at the corner or each wall. Draw a picture of the ceiling and divide it into triangles that way if you need the visual aid.

2. Measure the base and height of each triangle in the cathedral ceiling. Write down that measurement.

3. Multiply each triangle's base by each height. Divide that number by two. For example, if the base is 12 and the height is 10, the equation will look like this: 12 x 10 = 120, 120 / 2 = 60. The final number is the area of each triangle.

4. Add all the areas to get the surface area of the cathedral ceiling.

Tags: cathedral ceiling, each triangle, base height, surface area

A Light To Casablanca Ceiling Fans

Casablanca ceiling fans can enhance the appearance of a room while circulating air around the space. Installation of a light kit can add to the pleasing aesthetic qualities of the fan. Casablanca light kits are available in a variety of models that are designed specifically for ceiling fans. Once you have procured the light kit for your Casablanca fan, install it yourself with a few tools, materials and basic electrical wiring know-how.

Instructions

1. Turn off the circuit breaker that supplies electrical power to the Casablanca ceiling fan at the main panel. Mark the breaker to alert others of the work being done.

2. Remove the three decorative cap screws located at the bottom of the fan using the appropriate screwdriver. Turn the screws counterclockwise.

3. Remove the decorative cap by pulling it straight down. You will notice a plug-in connector with a small red square suspended by wires. The plug on the Casablanca light kit also has a red square.

4. Raise the light kit assembly to the fan and connect the plug from the kit to the plug on the fan. Line up the two red squares when connecting the plugs to each other. Ensure that the plugs are seated fully.

5. Connect the light kit base to the fan, tucking the plug wires in as you do. Insert and tighten the three base screws clockwise with a screwdriver.

6. Install the light bulbs into their sockets and tighten clockwise by hand.

7. Pass the pull-chain from the light kit through the center of the metal disc included with the kit. The disc supports the backside of the translucent bowl that covers the lights and slides over the threaded shaft.

8. Install the bowl, the lower decorative cap and the finial nut. Guide the chain through each item in that order. Turn the nut clockwise onto the threaded stem and tighten by hand.

Tags: Casablanca ceiling, Casablanca light, ceiling fans

Paint Ceiling Murals With Clouds

Ceiling murals with clouds can give a relaxing and open feeling to a room, making even a cramped environment feel spacious. Cloud murals are a good first project for would-be muralists without much artistic experience; clouds are light, amorphous shapes that are fairly easy to paint on a ceiling, using a sponge to create texture. Start slowly and cautiously, only painting a small piece at once. You can always add more paint, but it's a lot more work to cover up a mistake.

Instructions

1. Paint the ceiling a solid light blue, using a paint sprayer, roller or brush. Allow the ceiling to dry.

2. Sketch out your clouds on the ceiling, using a pencil. Decide on their shapes and dimensions and whether you want them to be dark and brooding, light and fluffy or thin and wispy.

3. Mix white paint with faux glaze, using one part white paint and between one and four parts faux glaze. The more faux glaze you use, the more transparent, shimmery and insubstantial the paint will look. If you are planning on painting dark clouds, mix in some black or gray paint to get a darker look.

4. Dip a sea sponge in your mixed paint and lightly blot it on a clean rag to remove any excess paint. Dab the sea sponge repeatedly on the wall to create cloud shapes.

5. Add white paint to your mixture, or create a new mix with less black paint if you're painting darker clouds. Paint light paint over the darker paint, using the sea sponge, to show the highlights of your cloud.

Tags: faux glaze, white paint, ceiling using, faux glaze more, glaze more

Install A Broen Bath Fan

Broan manufactures a fine line of bathroom accessories and are especially recognized for their high quality bath fan designs. Broan fans are very durable and will last a long time with proper installation. Installing a Broan bath fan requires a few basic tools and about two to three hours of installation time. Each fan has its own unique characteristics, but the basic installation is the same.

Instructions

1. Mark on the ceiling where the fan will go. Cut a square hole in the ceiling drywall. The hole should be adjacent to an existing ceiling joist.

2. Insert the fan through the hole and secure it to the existing ceiling joist. Some models can be secured from below the unit and others will have to be secured in the attic. Check the manufacturer's installation guide to verify installation procedures and the location where you should secure the screws.

3. Locate the electrical junction box that will supply the unit with power. This is usually the electrical box in the center of the ceiling. Shut off the power to the junction box at the main power panel. Run the black, white and green wires from the fan over to the junction box.

4. Open the junction box and remove the plastic twist cap on the group of wires. Strip 1/2 an inch of insulation off the black, white and green wires of the fan. Connect the black wire of the fan to the black wire of the junction box. Place a new plastic twist cap on that group of black wires. Connect the white wire of the fan to the existing group of white wires in the junction box. Cover with a twist cap. Connect the green ground wire to the existing ground wires in the junction box. Cover each splice with a new plastic twist cap.

5. Turn the power back on and test the fan for proper operation.

Tags: plastic twist, black white, black white green, black wire, ceiling joist

Unusual Ceiling Treatments

In the past, a ceiling was thought of only as the top of a room. It was perfectly plain and stark white to reflect maximum light from the single fixture in the center of the room. More focus is being placed on ceilings these days. Homeowners have abandoned the single light fixture to provide better light distribution, so the ceiling no longer has to be reflective white, and it no longer has to be plain.

Medallions

Decorative ceiling medallions are making a comeback. Heavy plaster has given way to lightweight polyurethane foam, which comes in different sizes that can be attached to the ceiling with small nails and adhesive. Traditionally used to highlight chandeliers, medallions were used singly in the past, but savvy decorators today use groups of them to add interest to a room or hallway devoid of architectural interest.

A large medallion centered over a long dining table can be flanked on each side by smaller ones with or without additional light fixtures. The ceiling space of a long hallway can be visually broken up by a series of small medallions. Used with pendant lights over a kitchen island or in a vanity area, medallions add an unexpected touch of glamour. Painting the ceiling a rich, bold color heightens the effect of crisp white medallions. Styles range from simple to ornate.

Wood Paneling

Anyone who likes a rustic, country look or the slightly more refined style of a cottage will be drawn to a wood bead-board ceiling. Although the appearance is that of individual boards, the wood actually comes in 4-foot by 8-foot panels for quick, easy installation. This treatment is suitable for flat or sloped ceilings and can be finished around the edges with crown molding. Panels should be stained or painted prior to installation. An opaque stain that allows the wood grain to show through is a very attractive finish, but latex paint also works well and is more durable.

Faux Tin

Tin ceilings were commonplace in the 19th century and have regained some of their original popularity. Metal ceiling tiles are available in authentic styles and patterns that replicate early tin designs and offer the look of yesteryear. Metal tiles can be installed by two methods: a suspended grid or nail-up, which makes them suitable for residential or commercial applications. Available finishes are steel, chrome, brass, copper and paintable white. Depending on the style selected, metal tiles can work in contemporary settings or create historical ambiance. The nail-up installation is suitable for home projects. Home centers that sell the product usually offer helpful do-it-yourself classes.

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Build Faux Painted Ceiling Beams

Making faux beams can add interesting design character.

Adding beans to a ceiling can add a rustic design element that makes newer homes look a little homier. Imparting a look that need not be structural to achieve, faux beams make any room look a little more rustic while rarely appearing dated. Adding faux beams is also a visually interesting way to conceal wiring, ceiling flaws or simply add visual interest. Built from 1-by-4 planks, these beams can then be painted or stained to look older or to add the appearance of grain and knots.

Instructions

1. Locate ceiling joists using the stud finder. Mark these locations with the pencil; these points will be where mounting screws are inserted to support the beam.

2. Cut as many 1-by-4 planks as necessary to span the desired ceiling length. Screw these to the ceiling joists with the drill, Phillips bit and wood screws, applied every 6 inches.

3. Place three 1-by-4 planks together to form a three-sided box. Drill pilot holes to accommodate screws, inserted to attach the three pieces.

4. Place the three-sided box over the plank attached to the ceiling. While holding the box in place (an assistant is useful for this), drill pilot holes for screws inserted every 6 inches. Drill in the screws using the drill and Phillips bit.

5. Apply wood filler over the screw heads. Sand down the filler until it's flush with wood surface. Paint or stain the three-sided box to give the appearance desired. Use a rocker dipped in paint or stain to give a faux "grain" appearance if desired.

6. Repeat all steps to create as many faux beams as desired.

Tags: faux beams, 1-by-4 planks, screws inserted, appearance desired, ceiling joists, drill Phillips, every inches

Vintage Light Styles

Vintage lighting gives your house a special touch.

Vintage lighting refers to any quality light fixtures or lamps from a time period in the past. It can refer to light fixtures from the time of Edison, a lamp made 30 years ago or anything in between. Styles are often categorized based on when they were popular and by the purpose and type of lighting they provide.

Reproductions vs. Originals

You can find original antique lighting fixtures at garage sales, junk shops and flea markets and from vendors who refurbish them with updated wiring. If they are antique, they are actual light fixtures that were sold and used in the past. You can also find reproduction lights, which look like older styles of light fixtures but are made with modern materials and are able to work with modern electrical systems and regular light bulbs. If you choose antiques, make sure they will work with your modern wiring. If you choose reproductions, look for a company with experience making this type of lighting so you get good quality products.

Non-Electric Styles

Before electricity was common in homes, people used oil lamps. Gas lighting was also installed in many homes. You can purchase many antique and reproduction lights of these styles today. Oil lamps have detachable chimneys or shades, which may be sold with the lamp or separately. You can find oil lamps that still work, though they may have a new or replaced burner. Others may be suitable just for show, not producing real light, and some may have been rewired so that they can use electricity. Gas lighting was built in, either mounted on the wall or hanging from the ceiling. Many old gas light fixtures have been refurbished to work with electricity, and you can also buy reproductions of this style of lighting.

Early Electric Lighting Styles

Popular styles of early electric lights include: Tiffany, with a stained glass shade; Arts and Crafts, with its simplistic style; Art Nouveau, ornate lighting fixtures with curved lines and influences from many cultures; and Art Deco, with straighter lines and squared angles. Lights that use vintage light bulbs are popular, but be aware that these bulbs produce more heat and use quite a bit more electricity than modern light bulbs.

Styles From 1950 Forward

More modern styles of lighting include: simple Eames-style lamps with metallic accents and slender necks; lava lamps from the 1960s; and low-wattage TV lamps meant to add some light to a room without overpowering the screens of early TVs.

Types

In addition to picking from various styles, you need to consider the various types of light fixtures available. Built-in lights include ceiling lights such as chandeliers and sconces that are mounted on the wall. Older-style lamps are meant to sit on a table, while more recent lamps were made to stand on the floor as well. If you are renovating an older home, you will also want fixtures for the outside of the home, including lamps mounted on the walls and outdoor lights on poles.

Tags: light fixtures, light bulbs, work with, from time, have been

Balance Ceiling Fan Blades

If your ceiling fan blades tend to wobble, you should balance them. If your blades are wobbly, your ceiling fan won't operate as quietly and as efficiently. Here is balance ceiling fan blades.

Instructions

1. Turn off your ceiling fan.

2. Switch the positions of the blades to see if that eliminates the wobble. You can switch the positions of the blades by unscrewing the screws that hold the blades together, switching the blades' positions and reattaching them using the screws.

3. Turn the fan on and try it out at several speeds to see if the wobbling has stopped.

4. Tape small washers to the top of an individual fan blade. Run the fan at several speeds. Try taping the washers to different blades until you find which blade, when weighted, produces the smallest amount of wobble.

5. Fasten the washers to the blade that needs to be weighted in order to correctly balance the ceiling fan. You can do this by placing the washers under the mount of the blade that needs the added weight.

Tags: your ceiling, balance ceiling, blade that, blade that needs, ceiling blades

Choose Recessed Lighting For A Living Room

Recessed lighting can provide general, task and accent illumination in your living room. Here's choose recessed lighting to fit your needs.

Instructions

Create a Lighting Plan

1. Jot down the ways that your family uses the living room and the kind of lighting needed for each activity.

2. Decide where to position your recessed lighting fixtures. Consider the following possibilities:

3. Place one fixture with reflector lamps for each 4 to 6 square feet of ceiling space.

4. Arrange general lighting fixtures midway between the walls and the center of the room around the perimeter to create a central pool of light.

5. Highlight artwork or sculpture with focused recessed lighting positioned 3 to 4 feet away from the wall.

6. Provide extra lighting over task areas to facilitate reading, playing games and other activities.

7. Create a dramatic accent by installing wall washers that can bathe one wall in warm light.

Choose Your Lights

8. Measure the ceiling of your room.

9. Choose the type of lamps you'll use. Fluorescent and halogen lights offer a wide variety of color choices and are more energy-efficient than incandescent bulbs.

10. Choose the mood you'd like to set. In a living room, warm fluorescents with tones of yellow and rose create a relaxed, peaceful light. Lights with hints of blue give clear, crisp light for reading and other tasks.

11. Choose the right housing for your ceilings and construction. New construction housings can be installed from above. Remodel housings are designed for installation from below.

12. Choose the right trim for your lights. The trim is the most visible and obvious part of the recessed lamps. Choose colors and styles that coordinate with your dining room. If you have cathedral or sloped ceilings, choose trim designed especially for those.

Tags: Choose right, lighting fixtures, living room, recessed lighting

Student Loan Consolidation Law

Consolidate your education loans for a better deal.

New laws that deal with student loans and consolidate them will affect many graduates. The good news is that the College Cost Reduction and Access Act, which took effect in July 2009, will provide better benefits for people looking to consolidate their student loans. Among those changes made by the student loan consolidation law are better interest rates.

Significance

Student loans have been troublesome to students for a number of years. Although the interest rates were relatively low, they still proved to be a problem, and took a very long time to pay back. The new laws were intended to partially solve this problem by providing even lower interest rates and creating a way for some to obtain student loan forgiveness.

Function

The new student loan consolidation laws will especially help those who are low income, or who have heavy debt loads at the present time. Student loan consolidations enable students with Federal education loans, such as Stafford, Perkins and the Grad PLUS loans, to combine them into one low interest loan. Currently, the interest rate is 5.6 percent, and this will even be going lower--to 3.4 percent until 2011--in two more steps.

Features

The law now places limits that enable low-income borrowers to have payments that are no higher than just 15 percent of their discretionary income. This limit, however, only refers to amounts made above the 150 percent of poverty level. Once they are in the program for 25 years, their existing debt at that time will be completely forgiven.

Effects

Only certain student loans are eligible for consolidation under this program. This includes the Federal Direct Loans (FDL) and the loans that are federally guaranteed (FFEL). Loans that parents take out, which includes the PLUS loans, cannot be consolidated. The only student loans that qualify for loan forgiveness when going into public service are the Federal Direct Loans.

Benefits

One of the main reasons why the College Cost Reduction and Access Act was passed enabling further reductions of interest on student loan consolidations was so that people going into public service could do so without having to pay off tremendous amounts of debt first. It did this by creating the possibility of giving them loan forgiveness if they had made payments up to that time and had been accepted into public service. The laws do not apply to private loans.

Considerations

Consolidating student loans provides the graduate with the possibility of getting even lower interest rates. While the ceiling rate is set, there is no established minimum interest rate. This means it is possible that an even lower interest rate may be obtained by looking around.

Tags: interest rates, student loans, even lower, even lower interest, interest rate, into public, into public service

Install A Pot Light In A Suspended Ceiling

A pot light, or can light as it is more commonly called, is an effective option for room lighting where there is a suspended ceiling. A suspended ceiling hides electrical wiring but still allows for the mounting of lights on the original surface.

Instructions

1. Hire a qualified electrician or a contractor with electrical expertise to run a BX feed or electric flex whip to the point where the can light will be installed. The electrical box should be connected to a switch control for the light.

2. Turn off the circuit breaker and light switch. Remove the ceiling tile where the pot light will be installed, along with a ceiling tile next to it.

3. Cut a circle in the tile where the pot light will be installed using a sharp utility knife. A circle template will be included with the pot light fixture. Cut from the face side of the tile so the surface is not chipped or marred. Reinstall the ceiling tile with the hole in it.

4. Feed the pre-wired BX whip down through the hole. Open the electric connection box on the can light, feed the BX whip into it and secure it with a connector as the box requires. Attach the color-coded wires with wire nuts and secure them with electrical tape.

5. Close the fixture box and slip the fixture up through the hole. Using the clips included with the fixture, spring-mount the fixture against the top of the ceiling tile.

6. From the space created by removing the adjacent tile, attach the BX whip with an approved strap to the ceiling or any framework above the suspended ceiling near the pot light. This will keep the whip from lying on the ceiling tiles and prevent the fixture from falling to the floor if it is ever knocked out of the tile.

7. Install the finish trim and bulb in the pot light from below. Reinstall the other ceiling tile and turn on the breaker and switch.

Tags: ceiling tile, light will, light will installed, where light, where light will, will installed, fixture from

Calculate Dimensions For A Coffered Ceiling

Coffered ceilings often look like crossing beams.

In ancient times, many buildings were made of stacked stone. When the masons reached the ceiling line, they used support stones to span across the space and roofing stones on top of the support stones to provide shelter. This system created beams below and cavities above, a style that came to be called coffers. Today, the exposed beams are made of wood and the recesses are paneled. Calculating the dimensions of a modern coffered ceiling often puzzles and confuses homeowners. The trick that carpenters use will make your calculations much easier and you will end up with evenly sized coffers.

Instructions

1. Assemble a beam sample out of the materials you will use for your ceiling beams. Often these include a 2-by-4-inch board mounted to the ceiling and 1-inch boards for the sides.

2. Measure the full outside width of your beam sample. In most coffered ceiling designs a beam is mounted along each wall.

3. Measure the width of the ceiling and deduct the full outside width of your beam sample. Divide this amount by the number of recesses you want across the width of the room. Measure the length of the ceiling and deduct the full outside width of your beam sample. Divide this amount by the number of recesses you want across the length of the room.

4. Transfer your measurements to half-inch graph paper. Mark the full width of the room with every half-inch on the paper equal to 1-foot in the room. Mark the full length.

5. Measure away from the left wall side using the measurement of your beam width. Make a mark labeled X. Measure from X using the divided width measurement. Mark each section to the right wall side. You should end up exactly at the right wall side. Measure away from the right wall side to the left using the measurement of your beam width. Make a mark. Move to your left to your next mark. Measure away from the mark to the left using your beam width. Repeat for each mark until you reach the left wall. Your last beam is already marked.

6. Measure away from the top wall side using the measurement of your beam width. Make a mark labeled Y. Measure from Y using the divided length measurement. Mark each section to the bottom wall side. You should end up exactly at the bottom wall side. Measure away from the bottom wall side to the top using the measurement of your beam width. Make a mark. Move upward to your next mark. Measure away from the mark to the top using your beam width. Repeat for each mark until you reach the top wall. Your last beam is already marked.

7. Draw out your lines so you can see the beam and recessed areas clearly. These will look the best when the recessed area measurements are similar.

Tags: your beam, wall side, away from, beam width, Measure away

Hang Bubble Chairs

Bubble chairs are unique additions to any room, and add a touch of the 1960s to your decor. However, before you can use your bubble chair, it needs to be hung from the ceiling. Hanging a bubble chair can be slightly challenging, depending on the layout of your room; a bubble chair needs plenty of space. A bubble chair should also be hung from a secure place in your ceiling to give it extra support. Once all factors are taken into account, it is simple to set up your chair and begin using it.

Instructions

1. Find a good location for your bubble chair. Leave about 3 feet of room between the chair and any walls or other furniture, as it is easy to damage a chair by banging it into things.

2. Use an electric stud finder to locate a stud in the ceiling from which to hang your chair for extra support. Have a partner hold your ladder while you are using the stud finder.

3. Get the proper length of chain, if one is not included with your bubble chair. The chair should be suspended 6 to 8 inches off of the floor. Measure the distance from floor to ceiling and subtract 55 to 57 inches from that. This length determines the amount of chain you will need.

4. Drill a pilot hole that is slightly narrower than the hook you plan to hang your bubble chair from.

5. Select a heavy-duty screw hook that can carry several hundred pounds of weight. Put the screw hook firmly in the pilot hole you drilled.

6. Attach a snap hook to each end of your chain. Place one end of the chain on the hook in your ceiling, and attach the other end to your bubble chair. Work with a partner to hold up the bubble chair while you attach it.

Tags: bubble chair, your bubble, your bubble chair, bubble chair needs, chair needs

Insulation & Plywood To A Ceiling

Adding insulation and a plywood ceiling to your bare ceiling is a typical home improvement project for the basement or attic. There are many factors to consider and physical strength is required to install the plywood sheets. If you have a helper the process will go much more smoothly than if you work alone. Without help it will take a weekend or more of your time.

Instructions

1. Measure the length and width of the ceiling and figure out how many boards will evenly fit on the ceiling space. It is important to cut the boards into even lengths and widths so they properly fit on the ceiling.

2. Put on a dust mask and rubber gloves over long sleeved shirt. Install a layer of insulation by pressing the unrolled sheets in between the ceiling joist boards. Cover the entire ceiling this way.

3. Draw a line on each plywood sheet with a pencil and drywall ruler every 16 inches across the width of the boards. This marks the location of your joists and tells you where to place your screws and drill.

4. Hold the plywood boards up to the ceiling joists (have a helper assist you in this step). Drive a 3-inch wood screw into the board and into the ceiling joist using the lines you marked as a guide. Place the screw right on the line each time. Drive in at least three screws, or as many as needed to securely hold the board in place. Continue this process until you have covered the entire ceiling with plywood.

Tags: ceiling joist, entire ceiling, have helper, line each

Dispaly Baskets On Ceiling Beams

A ceiling beam is an excellent place to display baskets.

Decorating ceiling beams with baskets is one way to make a room appear homey and warm. Using baskets on ceiling beams works well as a display idea because the baskets are out of the way and do not take up valuable space, but they are still visible and give a cottage or vintage feel to the room.

Instructions

1. Place the ladder under the ceiling beams. Attach the brush attachment to the vacuum. Vacuum the dust from the top of the ceiling beams. If you cannot reach the top of the ceiling beams with the vacuum, simply dust the beams with a dust rag to remove the dust from the top of the beams.

2. Arrange the baskets by size, color, shape or texture. Test the largest basket for stability by placing it over the ceiling beam. If the bottom of the basket hangs off of the ceiling beam, do not use the basket on the ceiling beam. Using a basket that is larger than the beam will only look cluttered.

3. Choose baskets that match the colors in your room for a cohesive appearance. Do not use baskets that have clashing colors or colors or patterns that are too busy for the decorative style of the room. Use modern-looking baskets in a modern room, and country baskets in a country room.

4. Arrange the baskets along the beams. Use no more than seven baskets on a beam. Group the baskets however you like. After placing the baskets on the beams, get down from the ladder to inspect how the placement looks in the room. Adjust as necessary until you are satisfied with the placement.

5. Place a small amount of sticky putty to the bottom of each basket. Press the basket firmly into the top of the beam. This will prevent the baskets from falling because of fans, a random gust of wind, minor earth tremor or activity that shakes the house.

Tags: ceiling beams, ceiling beam, beams with, Arrange baskets, baskets that

Ideas For Horse Barn Cooling

Adding insulation to your barn will help but may not be enough.

Finding ways to cool your horse barn can prevent heat stress in the hot summer months. If you live in a warm climate, in an area with a frequent combination of heat and humidity, or if your horse has issues with sweating (anhidrosis), modifying your barn or installing cooling capabilities could save you money in the long term, and may even save your horses. If your barn is still under construction, invest in insulation now. However, insulation alone may not be sufficient.

Ventilation

Open as many doors and windows as possible for ventilation.

The easiest -- and most economical -- solution for horse barn cooling is adequate ventilation. Leave all windows and doors open as much as possible. If the barn stalls have doors that open to outside runs, leave them open as well. Try to open windows and doors across from each other, so that cross-ventilation can occur. Adequate ventilation is not just a cooling issue; it is critical to your horse's health. If your barn does not have adequate ventilation, you may find that spending money to make modifications is a worthwhile investment.

Ceiling Fans

Ceiling fans must be out of the way if a horse rears.

Ceiling fans can be a simple modification to your barn to circulate the air, particularly in combination with adequate ventilation. Make sure the fans are installed high in the barn; above the center aisle is a good option. Some horse owners place ceiling fans directly above each individual stall. Either way, make sure the height is adequate if your horse rears or kicks up with its hind legs; you will be surprised at how high they can kick or how tall they are when standing on their back legs.

Wall or Box Fans

Box fans are an inexpensive way to circulate air throughout the barn to help with cooling. As with ceiling fans, they work better in conjunction with adequate ventilation, rather than just circulating stale, enclosed air. In addition to having a box fan in the aisle, mount individual box fans on the walls high above each stall. Ensure that the mounting hardware is secure, and that the fan is safely out of the horse's way. You can also order high-powered fans specially manufactured for barns that move air through a barn with minimal noise and dust.

Water Misters

Water misters offer an efficient and effective cooling system for your barn. The cooling effect occurs as the water evaporates. If your barn is well-ventilated or equipped with adequate fans for air circulation, installing the misters may be all you need. If you need additional airflow to circulate the misting, you can purchase a mister and fan combination that are designed to work together.

Tags: your barn, your horse, adequate ventilation, with adequate, above each, horse rears, windows doors

Build A Wood Box Beam

Wood beams can add accent to a room

A box beam can be used for decorating when you don't need a solid beam for support. They are lighter, easier to install and less expensive than a solid beam of comparable size. Best of all, they can be cut and assembled in a relatively short period of time. By using veneered plywood, you can fabricate a beam with a variety of wood finishes that might be otherwise difficult to find. A few tools, plywood and a basic knowledge of woodworking are all you need to get started.

Instructions

1. Set the rip fence on your table saw for a 6-inch cut.

2. Rip two 6-inch by 8-foot strips from a sheet of plywood with your table saw.

3. Set the rip fence on your table saw for a 5-inch cut.

4. Rip six, 5-inch by 8-foot strips from the remaining plywood.

5. Remove the rip fence from the table saw.

6. Cut four of the 5-inch strips into 5-inch squares. Use the miter gauge on your table saw to get a square cut. Use measuring tape and a pencil to mark one 5-inch cut at a time. These will be used as internal supports for the beam, so it is imperative that they are cut to a uniform square, 5-inch by 5-inch size.

7. Place one 5-inch by 8-foot strip flat on the floor. Run a bead of wood glue along both long edges of the strip.

8. Place the two 6-inch strips, on edge, along either side of the 5-inch strip.

9. Align the ends of all three strips and use a bar clamp on each end to hold the boards in position.

10. Use the hammer to drive a finish nail about every four inches along both glued edges.

11. Measure and mark the inside of the beam at 4-inch intervals.

12. Place a 5-inch square support inside the beam at each mark. The supports should be placed vertically so their edges will make contact with all sides of the beam.

13. Nail the internal supports in position through the side strips with finish nails.

14. Apply a bead of wood glue to the long edges of the remaining 5-inch strip.

15. Slide the strip into the slot remaining on the top of the beam. If all your measurements are correct, it will rest on top of the internal supports and its top will be flush with the edges of the beam's sides.

16. Nail the top strip into position by driving finish nails into the edges of the top through the side strips.

17.Use a nail set to set the heads of the finish nails 1/16 of an inch below the surface of the boards.

18. Apply wood putty to the nail holes and allow it to dry.

19. Sand the putty smooth over the nail holes and you are ready to finish the beam.

Tags: your table, finish nails, internal supports, 5-inch 5-inch, 5-inch 8-foot, 5-inch strip, 8-foot strips

Restore Antique Fans

Antique fans add unexpected design elements to a room while helping airflow.

Antique electric fans are a great option for adding character and charm to a space. They also provide much-needed cooling properties and increase air circulation. Fans can usually be found at a bargain price at antique shops, estate sales or vintage home furniture stores. If the fan of your dreams needs some rehabilitation to restore it to its former glory, don't despair. There are some easy ways to bring an antique fan up to modern standards.

Instructions

1. Place the drop cloth on the floor to protect from dirt and debris. Place the fan on the drop cloth. Carefully look over the fan and check for loose parts, damaged or broken sections or portions in need of repair. Examine the cage and rotor housing. Look for signs of the original manufacturer and any loose or exposed wires. Make a note on the material the fan is made of, whether it's metal, wood or plastic. Take a photo of the original condition of the fan to assist in putting the parts back together later.

2. Use a rag and water to gently clean the surface of the fan. Remove any dirt and dust. For delicate areas or places with detailing, carving or metal work, use the soft-bristled toothbrush. Dip the toothbrush in water and carefully scrub small areas clean. For metal surfaces that require more intense cleaning, use the steel wool and water to clean. Dry surface with a dry cloth or rag.

3. Make small repairs to the fan. Glue any loose or hanging pieces of wood or metal back to their proper place. Tighten loose screws and replace missing screws if needed. Brush the surface of the fan with a dry cloth to remove any dust or dirt after repairs have been made; this will prep the surface for painting or staining.

4. Natural-bristle brushes work well when applying paint or stain to antique wood.

Open the paint or stain. Use the paintbrush to apply a coat of paint or stain to the surface of the fan. Work in even strokes to give the paint a smooth finish. Let the first coat dry. Apply a second coat. Allow to dry completely. If desired, use a clean brush to apply a coat of sealer to the surface of the fan once the paint or stain has dried. Sealer will protect the surface and add durability.

5. Have an electrician inspect the fan's wiring before plugging it into an outlet at home. Show the electrician the photo you took in the first step to help properly identify it. Many old fans have cloth-covered wires, which are not up to modern electricity standards. This is a safety hazard. An electrician can inspect the fan and rewire it as necessary for home use. Remember to ask the electrician to install a modern outlet connector if needed.

Tags: paint stain, apply coat, clean surface, drop cloth, electrician inspect, Place drop, Place drop cloth

Wire A Nutone

An exhaust fan helps to remove moisture from your bathroom.

NuTone manufacturers various ventilation fans --- also known as exhaust fans --- for bathrooms. An exhaust fan removes the moisture and odor from your bathroom, making it a more comfortable environment. The most sensitive part of installing an exhaust fan is wiring it. Wiring an exhaust fan correctly is important to ensure your NuTone fan works correctly and you do not create a fire hazard. With the right tools and directions, you can wire your NuTone exhaust fan correctly.

Instructions

1. Turn off the power to the electrical box where the NuTone fan will be wired. Turn off the light switch to the fan. Turn off the power at the circuit breaker to ensure no risk of electrocution.

2. Twist together the black wire from the exhaust fan and the black wire from the electrical box. Screw on a wire nut to secure both wires together.

3. Twist together the white wires from the exhaust and the electrical box. Twist a wire nut to secure the wires.

4. Connect the green or bare ground-wire from the exhaust fan to the green ground-screw on the electrical box. Use the screwdriver to secure the wire in place.

5. Turn on the power and test the exhaust fan. If the exhaust fan does not turn on, check for loose wires.

Tags: from exhaust, Turn power, black wire, black wire from, exhaust correctly, from your, from your bathroom

Replace A Ceiling Fan Cord

It is not uncommon for a ceiling fan cord to break. Replacing a ceiling fan cord requires also replacing the switch located inside the housing unit of the fan. Replacement switches with cords are available at hardware stores. Replacing the cord and switch is a job that can easily be done on your own.

Instructions

1. Turn off the electrical circuit to the ceiling fan.

2. Remove the lights from the ceiling fan. Unscrew the bottom plate of the central housing unit. Unscrew the cap where the cord comes out of the housing unit.

3. Unscrew the nut where the cord normally exits the switch to remove the old switch. The switch will be connected to the fan with two to four color-coded electrical wires. The black wire will be the hot wire and the remaining colors will be the fan speeds. Every ceiling fan is different with respect to the color-coding. Consult the owner's manual or contact the manufacturer to find out which color corresponds to which speed.

4. Disconnect these wires. If they are connected directly into the cord, use a small flat head screwdriver to pry them out. If they are connected with wire nuts, screw them off. If they have non-removable connectors, clip them as close to the old switch as possible to ensure that you have plenty of wire length left for wiring the new switch.

5. Take the old switch to the hardware store to ensure that you buy a replacement that is the correct match for your ceiling fan.

6. Wire in the new switch and cord. Wire nuts should come with the new switch. If not, wire nuts can be purchased separately. Insert the cord through the hole in the housing and screw back on the cap. Replace the fan housing bottom plate and the lights.

Tags: housing unit, bottom plate, ceiling cord, connected with, ensure that, housing unit Unscrew, them they

A Remote Control To My Ceiling Fan

Add a remote to your fan and turn off the lights from bed.

Remote controls are available for ceiling fans, from the basic three-speed push-button remote to a variable fan speed control with a light dimmer. There are even programmable ceiling fan remote controls that can think for you, anticipating fan adjustments based on previous control choices. When choosing a remote, verify the control is rated universal for use on any ceiling fan.

Instructions

1. Turn your ceiling fan on at the wall switch and pull the speed chain until the blades are spinning at the highest speed. Turn the ceiling fan's lights on if they are not on already.

2. Turn off the circuit breaker to the ceiling fan in your home's main breaker panel. Have someone watch for the fan lights to turn off as you turn breakers off. The ceiling fan quits spinning and the lights go off once you choose the correct breaker.

3. Remove one blade from your ceiling fan to give you room to complete the remote control wiring. Remove the two screws holding the fan blade arm to the ceiling fan motor. Move the ceiling fan to a safe place as any blade damage could cause the fan to become unbalanced and wobble.

4. Remove the screws holding the canopy covering the ceiling fan hanging bracket. Find both the hanging bracket and the canopy above the fan and against the ceiling. Release the canopy from the bracket and let it rest against the ceiling fan motor.

5. Untwist the wire connector holding the black wire from the ceiling electrical box to the black and light kit wire from the ceiling fan. Untwist the connector holding the white wire from the ceiling electrical box to the white wire from the ceiling fan. Leave the remaining ceiling fan wires connected.

6. Lay the ceiling fan remote control and remote receiver on a work surface. Check the dip switches on the receiver against the dip switches on the remote to verify that the positions of the switches match. The dip switches on the control are often found in the battery compartment.

7. Identify the wires on the remote receiver. The ceiling fan side of the receiver has three wires labeled motor, light and common or neutral. The electrical box side of the receiver has two wires labeled hot or load and neutral or common.

8. Connect the remote receiver motor wire to the black wire attached to the ceiling fan by twisting a connector onto both the wires. Connect the white wire attached to the ceiling fan to the wire labeled as common or neutral on the receiver with another wire connector. Finish connecting the receiver to the ceiling fan by matching the final wire from the fan motor to the wire labeled as the light on the receiver. Depending on the manufacturer of your ceiling fan, the light wire from the ceiling fan could be red, blue or black with a white stripe.

9. Match the remaining black receiver wire to the black electrical box wire and twist a wire connector onto the two wires, connecting them. Match the two remaining white wires from the electrical box and the receiver and twist a wire connector onto both wires.

10. Place the receiver inside the hanging bracket, making sure the small antenna wire does not get hung beneath the receiver. Slide the canopy over the hanging bracket and reattach it with the screws you removed.

11. Replace the fan blade on the ceiling fan. Turn on the breaker to the ceiling fan inside your home's main breaker panel.

Tags: wire from, from ceiling, wire from ceiling, hanging bracket, wire connector

Hang A Flat Screen From The Ceiling

Flat-Screen TV

Flat-screen televisions continue to grow rapidly in popularity. As prices fall for slim designs and their technology advances, demand has significantly increased. One question many consumers ask after they purchase a flat-screen TV is, "Where do I put it?" Consumers typically place flat-screen TVs on stands or mount them on walls. Some, however, consider the ceiling a potential resting place for their new TV. While mounting a flat screen from a ceiling may sound complicated, the process is quite simple.

Instructions

Mounting a TV to the Ceiling

1. Purchase a mounting kit made specifically for mounting flat screens to ceilings. Ensure the mount is compatible with your TV's size by measuring the distance between the mounting holes on the back or side of your television with a measuring tape. It should also support your television's weight specifications. Mounting kits are available online or at most major electronics store.

2. Locate a general area on the ceiling where you want to mount the TV. Choose an area away from direct sun exposure and excessive humidity.

3. Use a stud finder to locate wooden joists in the ceiling. Turn on the stud finder and place it flat against the ceiling in the location you wish to use. Slowly move it from left to right, until you detect a ceiling joist. Once a joist is located, use a pencil to mark the location. Make a mark every few inches of the joist's length. Depending on the type of mount used, you may need to locate one or two joists for proper mounting.

4. Place the mount against the ceiling, visually ensuring that the holes in the mount line up with the pencil markings for the stud. Hold the mount in this position as a template, and use a pencil to mark all screw holes onto the ceiling area. Remove the mount and double-check that all pencil marks line up with the joist, and match the mount's screw pattern exactly. These marks will serve as a guide for the drill.

5. Use an electric drill to make holes in the ceiling and joist area where you marked. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for choosing an appropriate drill bit size.

6. Place the mount against the ceiling area, and visually match up the drilled holes with the holes in the mount. They should match up perfectly. Attach the mount to the ceiling by using the screws that came with the mounting kit. Use a screwdriver (or wrench), and turn each screw clockwise. Repeat this process for each screw provided in the mounting kit until you secure the mount.

7. Attach the television to the mount by using the screws provided. Tighten each screw to secure the television to the mount. Gently touch the television and mount to ensure it does not move or feel unstable. Then plug in the television and check for proper operation.

Tags: against ceiling, each screw, television mount, ceiling area, ceiling joist, holes mount, line with

Decorating Styles For A Wood Ceiling

Highlight wood ceilings for their natural or traditional beauty.

Wood ceilings are typically made from wood paneling, wood planks or beadboard. Homeowners should choose what type of wood ceiling to install based on the look they want for their house and what other types of wood they use. If homeowners already have a wood ceiling and are wondering what to do with it, they can highlight its natural colors and use furniture that blends in smoothly with the wood or balance the tree-like feel the wood ceiling gives.

Match the Wood

When in doubt, homeowners should always match the wood of their other house components. If there is wood paneling in the house, such as trim or baseboards, homeowners can use it as a guide. If they use wood in any of their decor or have wood on the walls or anywhere else in the house, they should try to match it when creating the wood ceiling. Mismatched wood clashes and looks unprofessional or like piecemeal.

Use a Traditional Look

If homeowners are interested in creating a traditional style or own an older home, they should consider beadboard wood paneling for their ceilings. Beadboard is an old-fashioned type of board dating back to the Victorian era, named for the beaded lines that run down the boards themselves. Beadboard is used for wainscoting and ceilings and look attractive painted a light color for a cozy, traditional style bedroom.

Try a Matte Finish

If homeowners already have a wood ceiling and want to improve it, they should finish it to bring out the natural wood grain and protect the wood from future wear. Typically a matte finish works much better than a gloss finish, which is used on wood trim or molding. A matte finish absorbs more light, making the room look bigger and reducing glare.

Highlight Wood Beams and Paneling

If homeowners have wood paneling and wood beams in their homes, which is common in cottage and ranch-style houses, they should keep the wood ceilings the way they are and decorate around them. If homeowners can, they should try installing windows near to the ceiling so the sunlight can illuminate the wood and give it even more warmth. Lamps and lanterns work as well if windows are not an option.

Tags: they should, have wood, wood ceiling, wood paneling, already have, already have wood

Install A Ceiling Mirror

A ceiling mirror can transform an ordinary bedroom into a sexy place for fun. If you plan to install a ceiling mirror, make sure that it is designed to be hung from a ceiling. Wall mirrors tend to distort the image reflected when they are placed on ceiling. Once you have your mirror, follow these steps.

Instructions

1. Use your tape measure to find the middle of the headboard. You can take the overall width of your headboard and divide it by two. This should be the midway point. Put a mark on the wall just above the midway point.

2. Transfer the mark using a level. A five-foot level or a laser level works well for this. The new mark should be at the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling. You may need to move the bed out of the way and use a ladder to reach the ceiling.

3. Measure the placement for the ceiling mirror mount. The exact placement may vary depending on the length of your mirror and personal preference. A good distance from the wall is 32 inches from your second mark. Put a mark where you want the mount.

4. Place the mount against the ceiling and mark the holes with a pencil. Use a drill and bit that is slightly smaller than the screws to drill holes into the ceiling. If you aren't on a stud, insert wall anchors. Hold the wall mount to the ceiling and secure it in place by putting the screws in tight.

5. Attach the chains to the eye hooks on the back of the mirror. You need to measure the same amount of links on each chain to ensure that your mirror hangs level. You may want to ask someone for a hand in hanging the mirror. Hang the long side of the mirror first.

6. Try alternative methods. Some people apply silicon to the back of a lightweight mirror and stick it to the ceiling. Others use self-adhesive mirror tiles.

Tags: ceiling mirror, your mirror, midway point

Remove A Ceiling Panel

Manufactured homes have removable ceiling panels.

Sometimes the ceiling panels of your home are damaged by a leaky roof. Ugly water stains appear on a ceiling where rain water has pooled and soaked through. If the damage isn't extensive, try blocking the water stains with stain-blocking primer paint. If you have to remove the panel to make repairs to the roof, consider replacing the panel altogether. The removal process doesn't require an expert, but you should invite someone to help with the lifting.

Instructions

1. Turn off the power breaker to any light fixtures on the ceiling. Find the breaker in the home's fuse box.

2. Remove the light fixtures. The type of fixture determines the tools required. Hire an electrician to remove any fixtures that you feel unqualified to remove.

3. Remove the trim along the joints of the damaged ceiling panel. Pry them away from the ceiling with a flathead screwdriver or putty knife. Finish nails or staples usually hold the trim in place.

4. Cut the panel edge with a utility knife where the edge meets the wall. Use a straightedge ruler to cut a straight line.

5. Ask your assistant to hold the ceiling panel in place.

6. Remove any rosettes holding the panel to the ceiling joists. If they're nailed in, pry them out. If they're screwed in, unscrew them with an electric screw gun.

7. Catch and lower the ceiling panel. Cut up the panel and throw it in the garbage bin.

Tags: ceiling panel, ceiling panels, light fixtures, water stains

Install A Light Dimmer On A Ceiling Fan

This dimmer switch has a small slider that is used to dim the light.

Installing a light dimmer on a ceiling fan is a great way to create ambiance in your home. Dimmers allow you to alter the brightness of a light by sliding a switch located on your wall. Dimmer switches are inexpensive and can be found at many home improvement stores. Dimmers also come in a variety of colors and designs that will match any home decor.

Instructions

Install the Dimmer Switch

1. Disconnect the power to the switch at the circuit breaker. Additionally, place a piece of masking tape over the switch to ensure no one turns the power back on.

2. Use the screwdriver to remove the face plate, and set both the face plate and the screw in a safe location.

3. Use the screwdriver to remove the two screws on the top and the bottom of the switch that hold it in place. Save those screws in a safe location as they will be used later.

4. Pull the switch out of the electrical box and disconnect the wiring.

5. Connect the color-coded wires from the dimmer switch to the wires in the wall. Black with black, white with white and ground with ground. Use the yellow wire caps to cover the exposed wires.

6. Use the screwdriver to reattach the new dimmer switch to the electrical box using the screws that were set aside.

7. Use the screwdriver to reattach the face plate that was set aside. Alternatively, the dimmer switch may require a different face plate. In this case, purchase a matching face plate and install it after the switch is in place.

8. Remove the masking tape and turn on the power.

Tags: face plate, dimmer switch, dimmer switch, masking tape, safe location

The Best Way To Paint An Acoustic Ceiling

Acoustic tile or popcorn ceilings are difficult and messy to paint with a roller and brush. By design, acoustic ceilings have uneven, highly absorbent surfaces. You can purchase special foam rollers to paint acoustic ceilings, but they're time-consuming. The pressure of the roller tends to make the acoustic surface crumble. Use an airless sprayer for the best and fastest way to paint an acoustic ceiling. Purchase an inexpensive small sprayer, which will come in handy for future projects, or rent a large spray rig for a day.

Instructions

1. Clear as much furniture as possible from the room. Take down light fixtures, if possible. Unscrew the canopy (the decorative plate that's flush against the acoustic ceiling), using a screwdriver, and wrap the fixture with plastic if you can't take it down. Take down or cover window coverings, smoke alarms and art work from the walls.

2. Lay dropcloths on the floor, and drape plastic sheeting over the remaining furniture.

3. Vacuum cobwebs and dust from the ceiling with the vacuum wand attachment. Repair holes with acoustic ceiling patch, available in spray cans. Use aerosol can spray primer to seal stains from water, smoke or grease.

4. Mask the walls if you don't intend to paint them as well. Use 8-foot plastic sheeting with tape already attached. It's designed to cover a standard wall from top to bottom. Tape another layer of sheeting below the first if your ceilings are higher.

5. Strain the paint before spraying, even if you're using new cans of paint. Thin it as directed on the label for spraying with up to a pint of water per gallon. Not all paint should be thinned--read the directions to be sure.

6. Pour the paint into the bucket or airless sprayer hopper. Stand on a stepladder to reach the ceiling, instead of trying to do it from the floor. Keep the spray gun between 12 to 24 inches from the ceiling while you work; any farther than that will result in uneven coats and wasted paint.

7. Apply two coats of paint to the ceiling. Allow the first to dry for at least an hour before applying the second coat.

8. Remove the plastic sheeting and tape from light fixtures, furniture and walls before picking the dropcloths up from the floor. This reduces mess, because the dried paint on the plastic will flake off and scatter everywhere when the plastic is removed.

Tags: plastic sheeting, acoustic ceiling, acoustic ceilings, airless sprayer, from ceiling, from floor

A Ceiling Fan Without Attic Access

Installing a ceiling fan in an area where you have no attic access is a relatively easy task if you have the right materials and you take your time. It helps if there is a circuit already available in the place where you wish to install your fan, but it's important to note that you can't simply take down a light fixture and replace it with a fan. If the circuit is already there, installing a ceiling fan without attic access takes about an hour.

Instructions

1. Turn the power off to the circuit if you are replacing an existing ceiling light. Test the fixture with your voltage tester to ensure that the power is off.

2. Remove the existing light fixture and inspect the wires to make sure they are still in good shape. If they are in poor condition, use the wire strippers to snip off the ends and then strip about 3/4 inch of fresh insulation from the tip of each wire.

3. Remove the existing fixture box. Depending on how it was originally installed, you might have to break it apart with a hammer. Just be careful not to damage the wire.

4. Take the ceiling fan mounting bracket and insert it into the access hole left behind by the old box. Set it down above the ceiling so that the bar is centered above the hole and the feet of the bracket are flat against the drywall.

5. Start twisting the bracket so that it expands. On both ends, the bracket has teeth that will dig into the ceiling joists. Once you feel resistance, use the adjustable wrench to ensure the bracket is installed as tightly as possible.

6. Remove a knockout on the mounting box and insert the grommet that comes prepackaged with it.

7. Insert the wires through the grommet and into the box. Needle-nose pliers can make it easier to pull the wires through the grommet. Then, secure the box to the bracket according to the directions. Use nut drivers to make sure the nuts that are securing the box to the bracket are on as tightly as possible.

8. Assemble the ceiling fan according to the instructions.

9. Install the ceiling fan's mounting bracket to the ceiling box.

10. Lift the fan and set its ball joint in the half-circle on the mounting bracket. This will take the weight off of you so you can make the wire connections.

11. Connect the white fan wire to the white ceiling wire, the ground fan wire to the ground ceiling wire and the black and blue fan wires to the black ceiling wire. The blue wire is included if the fan has a light kit. If it doesn't, then the blue wire will not get connected.

12. Make sure all of the wire connectors are on tight, wrap electrical tape around each connection and stuff them carefully into the ceiling box so they don't get caught between the canopy and the ceiling.

13. Screw the canopy to the mounting bracket and turn the circuit back on.

Tags: mounting bracket, ceiling wire, attic access, blue wire, ceiling mounting, ceiling mounting bracket, circuit already

Make Faux Beams From Foam Insulation Pieces

Wood beams can be simulated with foam board.

Exposed wood beams along a ceiling can add a beautiful charm to a room. The cost of installing real beams is prohibitive, and may even require a remodeling permit in some areas due to their load on the house's frame. Instead of using the real thing, you can create faux beams out of foam insulation sheets. These sheets are 4-by-8 feet, and just a few of them can create enough beams for the entire room.

Instructions

1. Cut the insulation sheets into boards. The thickness of the individual boards should match the distance you want them to extend down from the ceiling.

2. Glue the boards together with foam glue. You can do this in one of two ways:

1) Glue several boards together into a solid beam. This will be much more resistant to damage, but requires more foam.

2) Glue three boards together into the base and sides of a beam, leaving the beam itself hollow. This uses less foam but is more susceptible to damage.

3. Allow the glue to completely dry.

4. You are simulating the appearance of wood grain.

Drag a wire dog brush against the foam beams to add a grain texture. You can also use a nail to carve in knots and other imperfections. For the appearance of an older beam, tear out entire chunks of foam along the corners.

The more irregular your wood grain pattern is, the more realistic it will look.

5. Paint the beams dark brown with acrylic paint. Allow the paint to dry. This will fill in the deeper areas when the painting is finished.

6. Dry brush a lighter wood color onto the beams for highlight. To do this, dip the brush into paint, then wipe most of it back off onto a newspaper. Drag the brush across the beam, perpendicular to the grain. The paint will only go onto the raised surfaces, leaving the carved-in detail dark.

7. Have a few helpers hold each beam in place along the ceiling as you screw them in place. Use three-inch wood screws, inserted at the top edge of the beam at a 45-degree angle, going through the foam and into the ceiling.

Use one screw every foot for solid beams, and every two feet for hollow ones.

8. Paint the screw heads to match the beam.

Tags: boards together, along ceiling, boards together into, ceiling screw, insulation sheets, This will, together into

Build Floor To Ceiling Windows For Cheap

Build your own windows and save money.

Windows make up a substantial percentage of the cost of building a house. Many people save money on windows by buying them used from architectural salvage yards and used building materials stores. If your construction plans call for unusually large windows and you don't want to pay a fortune for them, it's possible to build your own. Home built windows probably won't be as heat efficient as professionally manufactured ones, but they will definitely be less expensive.

Instructions

1. Collect used windows and pieces of glass and store them in a safe place. Go to yard sales and auctions and keep an eye on the free section of online trading sites like Kijiji and Craigslist. To get free and cheap windows and glass, you need to be ready to take them when they're available.

2. Design the layout for your windows based on the parts that you've managed to accumulate. Make careful measurements of the floor to ceiling area where you are planning to put the windows. Design large, floor-to-ceiling windows out of smaller windows by fitting them together in interesting ways.

3. Build a customized framework based on the sizes of the smaller windows that you will be using. Cut U-shaped channels out of both sides of 2-by-4 lumber to create a track into which you can fit the smaller windows. These 2-by-4s will be the framework that holds the entire window structure together.

4. Assemble the floor to ceiling windows by placing the salvaged windows into their places in the 2-by-4 framework that you've designed and screw the entire structure together using three-inch-long screws. Increase the heat efficiency of the windows by putting a bead of silicone caulking into the U-shaped slots before fitting the windows into them.

Tags: smaller windows, floor ceiling, framework that, save money, structure together

Ceiling Lamp Parts

A ceiling lamp is assembled from many parts.

Ceiling mounted lamps are a very popular category of lighting fixtures. They are available in several configurations such as swag lamps, pendant lamps, chandeliers, shop lights or the flush mounted ceiling lamps found in many kitchens. While the lamps themselves may be different, most are fashioned using many of the same components. Here are some examples of ceiling lamp parts.

Cords and Sockets

Every ceiling lamp requires some type of wire to connect the fixture to the power source. Every ceiling lamp also needs one or more sockets to hold the bulbs. They might be E26 medium base, E17 intermediate, E14 European, E12 candelabra or E11 mini-candelabra. All socket types accept bulbs with threaded bases. Shop lights and flush mounted ceiling lights often use twin-pin sockets to accommodate the fluorescent tubes typically used in these two fixture types.

Chains

A ceiling fixture suspended with chains.

Swag lamps and chandeliers are suspended from chains that hang from from the ceiling. Some pendant lights and many chandeliers use chains strictly as decorative accents. Chandeliers often use chains composed of glass beads. Many shop lights are also suspended from chains located near the ends of the fixture. The chains may be painted or finished in shiny brass.

Glass Parts

A ceiling fixture with glass globes

In addition to beaded glass chains, many ceiling lamps use glass shades, glass diffusers, covers, or globes to add decorative touches, reduce glare, or help direct light in a specific direction. The glass may be colored, frosted, cut and etched or clear. An example of a ceiling fixture with colored glass shades are the 3-light fixtures typically hung directly above a pool table. Their shades are made of green glass.

Switches

While wall switches control many ceiling lamps, some have switches built into the fixture itself. A small chandelier mounted above a dining table, or a swag lamp, might be controlled with a pull chain switch. Other swag lamps are equipped with in-line switches mounted directly on the power cord. They are usually near the power cord plug, which is plugged into a wall outlet.

Shades

A ceiling lamp with a colored glass shade.

Many ceiling lamps, particularly swag lamps, retro or antique chandeliers, may be equipped with shades made from paper, glass, plastic or fabric. If this is the case, the shade is supported from above on a metal frame installed above the socket(s). The bottom of the shade is open and directs the illumination straight down.

Decorative Touches

A crystal chandelier adorned with hanging prismatic crystals.

In addition to beaded glass chains, many fancy chandeliers are equipped with hanging clear glass crystals, prisms or pendalogues. These components are faceted to both catch and reflect the light coming from the bulbs. As the light is bent while passing through the ornamentation, it may also create a rainbow effect on walls or the ceiling as the white lamp light is split into the colors of the visible spectrum.

Tags: ceiling lamp, ceiling lamps, ceiling fixture, equipped with, swag lamps

Air Conditioning To A Victorian Home

You can add air conditioning to a Victorian home

If you bought a Victorian-era home, you probably fell in love with its grandeur and period detail. But you may not be so happy with having to keep it cool in hot and humid weather. Victorian homes, built before central cooling was common, require a few special considerations when you're adding air conditioning. From the easiest and cheapest to the most difficult and expensive, here are some things you can do to stay cool in your Victorian home.

Instructions

1. Take advantage of passive cooling--even with central air conditioning, it will make your system more efficient and cheaper to run. Weatherstrip your windows and make sure your doors are airtight. If you don't already have trees or shrubs on the southern side of the house, plant them for shade. Trees that shade your house can save up to 25 percent of your household's energy.

2. Depending on the square footage and layout of your home, window air conditioners may be sufficient for your space. The efficiency of any air conditioning unit--window or central--is measured by its seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). The higher the SEER, the more efficient the unit or system. Make sure that your window units are sized properly for your space. Using a ceiling fan with your window units will spread the cool air throughout your rooms while saving energy.

3. Enlist the help of an experienced residential contractor if you're interested in a central air conditioning system, preferably someone who has worked on Victorian-era homes before. Your contractor should analyze your house's heat gain and calculate the cooling load. Taking into account your climate, your house's insulation, its placement of windows and doors and its location on the site, your contractor will be able to recommend a properly sized system. Based on the calculations, you may benefit from upgrading your insulation and making your home more energy-efficient before installing the system

4. Find the most efficient system for your house. Like window units, systems have a SEER, and like window units, systems with a higher SEER are more efficient. Their initial cost is higher but their operating cost will be lower. In older houses, which are "leakier" than new construction, controlling humidity can be a bigger challenge than reducing temperature. A system with a higher SEER will be better at reducing humidity.

5. Add ducts to retrofit a Victorian home for central cooling. Victorian homes predate forced-air heating systems, and few of them have ducts to accommodate central air conditioning. New systems use "mini-ducts," which are much smaller than old-fashioned metal ducts and fit more easily in small spaces, like Victorian closets, but are highly efficient.

6. Consider a ductless air conditioning system. These systems have two parts. One includes the noisy compressor/condenser, which is housed outside. The second includes the quiet air-handling unit composed of an evaporator and a fan, which is indoors. The two are linked by a conduit that houses the power cable, refrigerant and suction tubing, and a condensate drain. Ductless systems need only a small hole in the wall for the conduit, and are easier and less intrusive to install than systems with ducts.

Tags: window units, your house, central conditioning, higher SEER, more efficient, central cooling

Types Of Mounts For Ceiling Fans

Vaulted ceilings require special ceiling fan mounts.

Ceiling fans cool the occupants in a room and allow you to lower your air-conditioning costs. They are attractive as well as functional. Many styles of ceiling fans exist for all types of room designs. Some fans come equipped with light fixtures. It is important to have the right type of mount when installing this useful appliance.

Standard Ceiling Fan Mount

Standard mounts are useful in most rooms with a standard ceiling height. The downrod is the metal rod that extends down from the ceiling bracket to the top of the fan. A downrod on the standard mount typically measures about 3 to 5 inches. Ceiling fans are generally mounted at least 7 feet above the floor area. They should be at least 18 inches away from walls.

Extended Mount

An optimal airflow for a ceiling fan is obtained by having the fan approximately 8 to 9 feet from the floor. Extended mounts allow the fan to hang at the correct height from unusually tall ceilings. The downrods on an extended mount can be as short as 6 inches and as long as 120 inches.

Flush Type

A flush mount holds the ceiling fan directly against the ceiling. This is particularly important for low ceiling heights. This prevents the fan blades from hitting pedestrians as they walk underneath the fan. It is also useful if the ceiling fan has a light fixture that would hang down too low from beneath the fan. Ceiling fans must have at least 12 inches of clearance between the ceiling and the top of the fan blades; 18 inches is optimal for the best air circulation.

Sloped Mount

Sloped mounts are perfect for ceiling fans that are mounted on vaulted or angled ceilings. This type of mount keeps the ceiling fan blades at an acceptable level to increase the optimal airflow in the room. Often, a sloped mount is used concurrently with a extended downrod to obtain the proper height.

Tags: ceiling blades, down from, least inches, optimal airflow, type mount

How Cover A Large Globe Light With A Lamp Shade

Cover globe lights with drum lampshades.

Though large globe lights offer an abundance of light, they may not be your style. These lights can look dated, especially if the fittings and the globe surround are from a bygone decade. You could replace the entire fixture, which might blow your entire lighting budget. Homemade lampshades offer a more wallet-friendly solution. Drum lampshades, especially, are simple to make and complement a wide number of decorating styles.

Instructions

1. Measure around the widest part of your globe light with a flexible measuring tape. Add 3 inches to the measurement to find the width of your lampshade rings. A 12-inch-wide globe light needs 15-inch-wide lampshade rings. Look for rings with a large central hole in the top ring.

2. Wrap flexible measuring tape around one of your lampshade rings. The resulting measurement is how long you must cut your fabric. A 15-inch lampshade ring should measure about 30 inches around the perimeter.

3. Cut a piece of fabric 30 inches long and at least 15 inches wide; this should be long enough to cover a 12-inch globe light completely. Flip the fabric so the wrong side faces up.

4. Unroll a little styrene film and press the edge against one of the short ends of your fabric, about 2 inches from the edge. Press the styrene against the fabric with your palms as you unroll it. You may need a friend's help to make sure there are no bubbles or ripples in the film.

5. Press double-stick fabric tape along the long edges of your fabric. Press each lampshade ring firmly into the center of either tape strip. Roll the fabric around the rings, keeping them centered on the tape strips.

6. Turn the lampshade upright. Fold the raw edges of your fabric down over the rings, pressing the tape above the rings to the tape just below the rings. Use more tape to secure the vertical seam in the fabric.

7. Unscrew the tiny screws in the top of your globe light carefully. Remove the globe and slide your lampshade over the resulting bare bulb. Screw the globe back into place. The globe will hold the lampshade in place and diffuse the light from the bare bulb.

Tags: your fabric, globe light, lampshade rings, your lampshade, about inches, bare bulb

Remove A Coffered Ceiling

Coffered ceilings create a formal look in a room.

A coffered ceiling is a design that features boxed beams that crisscross to form recessed checkerboard shapes. Most modern coffered ceilings are applied to existing ceilings after the initial ceiling has been installed. This makes removal of the ceiling fairly simple. When possible, you want to preserve the existing ceiling as much as possible. However, if numerous fasteners were used to install the coffers, then it is likely you will need to replace drywall to make your ceiling look good.

Instructions

1. Cut through the caulk around the bottom and top trim on the inside of the coffered ceiling box. Slide a wide putty knife under the edge of the trim and pry it away from the box.

2. Unscrew the top of the box from the cleat with a screwdriver. Typically, the box that you see in the room is a faux beam. This three-sided box is screwed to a cleat along the top sides of the box. When you unscrew the sides, the entire box should be removable.

3. Place the wide putty knife flat against the ceiling alongside the ceiling cleat. Usually, the cleat will be nailed into the ceiling joist. Slide the claw of a hammer along the putty knife into the joint and try to loosen the nails. The putty knife will act as a shield and help protect the drywall ceiling from dents as you pry. Move the putty knife along the cleat with the hammer and pry bar as you loosen the entire cleat. Pull the cleat straight down to remove it. Repeat across the entire ceiling.

Tags: putty knife, cleat with, coffered ceiling, wide putty, wide putty knife