What Are The Causes Of The Garage Ceiling Plywood Splitting

Moisture and temperature changes can cause splitting in plywood boards.

As a roof-underlayment material, plywood boards make for a sturdy ceiling for a garage interior. While sturdy in construction, plywood ceilings can break down under certain conditions, especially when the wrong type of plywood material is used. Over time, a damaged plywood panel can begin to buckle and cause splits to form in ceiling surfaces.

Plywood Materials

A plywood board consists of thin layers of wood that have been glued together to form a laminated piece, or panel. Each wood layer's grain pattern sits perpendicular to the layer next to it, which partly accounts for the strength of a plywood board. Plywood boards also contain wood plug pieces, which act as patches in areas where wood defects appear during the manufacturing process. The overall design of a plywood board makes for a material that's as durable and solid as natural wood.

Exterior vs. Interior Boards

Plywood board provides a versatile construction material that's useable for indoor and outdoor projects. Boards designed for interior constructions use glues designed for indoor environments. Boards designed for exterior constructions use glues that can withstand changing climate conditions. The cause of a splitting garage ceiling might involve the type of plywood used to construct the ceiling. As a garage ceiling, the layers that make up a board designed for interior use will start to come apart. These conditions weaken the strength of the board and over time can cause the ceiling split.

Weathering

Weathering involves the effects of heat, cold and moisture on exposed exterior surfaces. A garage ceiling made from plywood will begin to break down if it's exposed to ongoing moisture and temperature changes. If left unattended, the ceiling surface will begin to split. Improper roof drainage often leaves pools of water on roof surfaces. Roof areas with little to no insulation or improperly sealed areas allow condensation to form underneath the roof surface. If a leak in the roof exists, direct exposure to water and moisture increases the rate of damage to plywood boards.

Spacing

A garage ceiling can consist of one or more layers of plywood paneling. A properly installed ceiling will leave a little bit of space between panel layers. When subjected to warm or hot temperatures, plywood boards expand. The spacing between boards allow boards to expand as needed. If no spacing exists, the plywood starts to buckle as layer presses against layer. Over time, ongoing temperature changes can cause ceiling boards to split as panel layers continue to press against each other.

Tags: plywood boards, garage ceiling, plywood board, temperature changes, Boards designed

Instructions For Assemble A Ceiling Fan

Ceiling fans don't come assembled, so it's a do-it-yourself project.

A ceiling fan is usually mounted permanently to the ceiling in place of a light fixture. You can install a ceiling fan in most rooms to enhance air flow and ventilation, both in cool and warm climates. The direction of rotation of the fan blades can be changed to either direct air downward or upward, depending on your preference. You have to assemble the ceiling fan before installing it.

Instructions

1. Place the fan motor right side up on a suitable work area. Attach the down rod (which is in between the ceiling mounting plate and the fan motor and keeps the fan blades at a sufficient distance from vaulted or cathedral ceilings) to the fan motor by fishing the wires from the motor through the center of the rod. Secure the rod to the top of the fan motor assembly by inserting the retaining pin. Insert the cotter pin into the hole at the end of the retaining pin until it locks into place. Skip this step if you are mounting your fan flush to a flat ceiling.

2. Attach the fan blades to the blade brackets with the fabric washers and screws provided. Tighten the screws clockwise with a Phillips screwdriver.

3. Attach the fan blade brackets to the fan blade mounting plates on the underside of the motor. Tighten the bracket retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver in a clockwise direction. If your ceiling fan came with plastic stabilizers to keep the motor turning during shipping, remove these from the fan blade mounting plates with a Phillips screwdriver before installing the fan blades.

4. Connect the wires at the bottom of the fan motor to the wires on the light kit for your fan, if necessary. Twist the black wire from the fan to the black wire from the light kit. Twist a wire nut (supplied with your kit) onto the twisted wires in a clockwise direction. Connect the white wires and bare ground wires from the bottom of the fan and from the light kit in the same fashion.

5. Push the light kit up to the bottom of the ceiling fan. Twist the light kit slightly if necessary to line up the mounting holes in the fan and the light kit. Thread the screws provided with a Phillips screwdriver into the mounting holes. Attach the globes to the light sockets on the light kit and tighten the thumb screws.

Tags: Phillips screwdriver, with Phillips, with Phillips screwdriver, before installing, black wire

Balance Reflex Blades

Unbalanced blades can make it nearly impossible for your helicopter to get off the ground.

One of the keys to a functional helicopter is keeping it in perfect equilibrium. Due to the rapid rotation of the helicopter's rotors, unbalanced blades can cause a wobble effect that drastically decrease the aircraft's stability. Learning balance your reflex helicopter's blades will ensure stable flight, allowing you to practice your skills as a pilot with an aircraft that is capable of performing in a consistent manner.

Instructions

1. Unscrew the mounting bolts that secure the helicopter blades to the swashplate. Remove the screws then disconnect the blades.

2. Place a round item -- like a wooden dowel -- on a flat, level surface. Plant each blade on the dowel one at a time, then assess their center of balance. Move the blade to the left or right until you identify its center of balance; mark the center with a marker.

3. Place the blades side by side to see if all their centers of gravity align with one another. Identify the blades that have different center of gravity than the rest.

4. Stick tiny pieces of metallic tape to the blade to shift the center of gravity more toward the exact center. If the center of gravity is more to the left, apply a small piece of metallic tape to the right side, to shift the center of gravity over. Continue to make minor adjustments until the center of gravity is equal between all of the blades.

5. Place each blade on a scale to determine their weight. All the blades need to weigh the same; if they do not, apply metallic tape to the center point of the lightest blades, to establish uniformity between them all.

6. Mount the blades back onto the swashplates by fastening them with the screws.

Tags: center gravity, metallic tape, blades Place, center balance, center gravity more, each blade, gravity more

Balance Hunter Ceiling Fans

Balance Hunter Ceiling Fans with this method.

Hunter ceiling fans are know throughout the industry for quality and reliability. But sometimes even the best ceiling fans need to be balanced. Wobbly blades are a sign that your Hunter ceiling fan is a candidate. If the situation remains unchecked, not only is it annoying but serious mechanical damage can result. Both the shaft and the fan mounting fixture bearings can malfunction due to the stress of a wobbling fan, so a balanced Hunter ceiling fan is a must for both efficiency and longevity.

Instructions

1. Tighten all the holding screws that attach the blades to the blade holders. A wobble can occur because the fan blades are not tight and move around in their mountings.

2. Wipe off every fan blade with a damp rag. Dirt build-up can cause a fan to become unbalanced. Remove all dust and dirt, then turn the fan on to see if it still wobbles.

3. Measure from the tip of each fan blade up to the ceiling. Each blade should be exactly the same distance. Any blades that are under or over the measured amount can be slightly bent upwards or downwards at the metal holder. Turn on the fan. If it still wobbles, you will need a fan balancing kit.

4. Unpack your fan balancing kit and find the plastic clip-on weight and several metal stick-on weights. Find the middle of any fan blade by measuring the length of the fan blade and dividing by two. Attach the clip-on weight at this middle point and then turn the fan on. If the wobble increases, go to the next blade until the wobble decreases. You have just found the unbalanced blade.

5. Move the clip-on a few inches up or down the unbalanced fan blade until the wobble stops. At the point where the wobbles stops, attach one of the metal stick-on weights and remove the clip-on weight.

Tags: clip-on weight, Balance Hunter, Balance Hunter Ceiling, blade until, blade until wobble, Ceiling Fans

Make A Drum Lamp Shade

Drum lampshade.

Drum lampshades are very much back in style. These lampshades were popular up until approximately 30 years ago, when they fell out of favor. They are now enjoying a strong comeback among home decorators. Drum lampshades are a nice choice for almost any lamp in any room in a home. They provide interesting lighting, because the light from the lamp will be reflected upward toward the ceiling, out through the lampshade and down all at the same time. Learn make a drum lampshade and incorporate this interesting lampshade into your home decor.

Instructions

1. Determine the size of the drum lampshade you will make. The top and bottom rings should be the same diameter. An example of a size you could make is a lampshade that is 9 1/2 inches high and has a top and bottom diameter of 18 inches.

2. Lay out the fabric-covered styrene onto a flat work surface. Using the example given in Step 1, measure down from one long edge of the styrene 9 1/2 inches and measure across the entire long edge 58 inches. Make small marks with the pencil to create cutting lines to make a lampshade piece that is 58 inches long and 9 1/2 inches tall.

3. Cut out the lampshade piece carefully with the scissors.

4. Squeeze a line of glue along the entire top edge of the wrong side of the lampshade piece.

5. Place the top ring in position on the edge of the lampshade piece along the line of glue. Wrap the lampshade piece around the top ring and hold it in place with clothespins as you wrap. Add a bit more glue when you reach your starting place and place another clothespin at this spot to secure it well.

6. Turn the lampshade over and repeat Steps 4 and 5 to attach the bottom ring.

7. Separate the vertical lampshade seam carefully and place a line of glue inside the edges. Press the seam together with your fingers until the seam has set enough that it won't move as it dries.

8. Allow the lampshade to dry completely before continuing with embellishments.

9. Glue grosgrain ribbon lengths onto the lampshade along the top and bottom edges. Begin applying a line of glue at the back seam bottom edge of the lampshade. Apply 2 or 3 inches of glue and then affix the length of ribbon. Continue in this fashion all the way around the bottom edge of the lampshade. Repeat with the top edge of the lampshade.

Tags: lampshade piece, edge lampshade, line glue, bottom edge, bottom edge lampshade, drum lampshade

Install A New Ceiling Light

Ceiling light

Installing a new ceiling light fixture is an easy do-it-yourself project that can be completed in little time. There are only 3 wires that make a light fixture work; a ground wire and two live wires. As long as you turn off the power to the light, you will be good to go.

Instructions

1. Remove existing fixture

Turn off the power at the breaker box to the room that you will be working in. Make sure the power is off by testing the lights or other appliances in the room. Take off the old light fixture's globe and remove all the light bulbs to the existing fixture. Pull the old fixture away from the mounting plate and ceiling by removing the mounting screws. Separate the three wires and remove the wire nuts from the wires. Unscrew the mounting plate of the existing fixture.

2. Install a ceiling medallion, if the new light fixture is smaller than the old one. They come in all shapes and sizes and will cover any damage to the ceiling and/or around the fixture. Different ceiling medallions have different installation instructions, so follow instructions carefully. Attach the new mounting plate on the electrical box inside the ceiling with the screws provided.

3. Snip ceiling wires

Snip the ends of the ceiling wires using the wire cutters to expose fresh wire. To remove protective coating on the wires, use the wire stripper to strip them until about a 1/2 to 1 inch of wire is exposed. This step ensures that the old wires have a good connection for the new wires to connect to.

4. Attach the wires

Attach the wires from the fixture to the electrical box in the ceiling by twisting the like colored wires together and covering them with the wire nuts.

5. Attach the screws to the holes of the mounting plate using the screws supplied with the new light fixture and a screwdriver,

6. Light fixture globe

Screw in the light bulbs specified for the new light fixture. Attach the globe of the light, if it has one. Fixture globes normally twist right onto the fixture. Do not over tighten anything that holds the globe into place to prevent shattering of the globe.

7. Turn the power on

Turn the power on at the breaker box and check to make sure your new light fixture is in working order. If a problem arises, turn the power off, and contact an electrician.

Tags: light fixture, mounting plate, existing fixture, Attach wires, ceiling wires, fixture globe

Adhere A Ceiling Vent To Drywall

Most of the time, a ceiling air vent attaches to ceiling joists on either side of the duct for stability. However, in some cases, the duct may not align with the joists, and you may have to attach the vent directly to the drywall. Drywall, a pressed form of gypsum, has a tendency to crumble, but by using supplies made just for drywall, you can attach the vent securely.

Instructions

1. Select a lightweight plastic or thin aluminum vent cover. Vents come in a variety of standard sizes and materials. The less it weighs, the better your chances of successfully installing it into the drywall.

2. Hold the flat side of your vent against the ceiling, aligning it with the duct. Use a pencil to mark the holes on each end. Your pencil marks should be at least ½ inch from the edges of the cut drywall. If not, you'll need a larger vent.

3. Fit your drill with a bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the anchor bolts, and drill a hole into the ceiling drywall at each pencil mark. Position the drill so the bit stays straight, not slanted to either side.

4. Hold the vent cover in place, aligning the holes in the vent with the holes you drilled into the ceiling.

5. Push the plastic part of the drywall anchor into each hole. A drywall anchor has two parts: a split plastic anchor with ribbing, which contracts slightly when inserted into a hole, and a threaded screw that fits inside the plastic anchor.

6. Use a screwdriver to insert a threaded screw into each plastic anchor while holding the vent in place. Tighten the screw just until it is snug against the vent cover, but do not over tighten. As you insert the screw, the plastic anchor will expand outward, hugging the drywall.

Tags: plastic anchor, vent cover, attach vent, drywall anchor, either side, into ceiling

Balance A 5 Blade Ceiling Fan

Have you just spent another night listening to the sound of pending doom coming from your ceiling fan? The sound of a wobbly ceiling fan can be a scary thing that will leave you worrying until you have finally tracked down and fixed the problem. If you've checked the fan's mounting and checked for bent or loose blades, and these don't seem to be an issue, more than likely your fan is unbalanced.

Instructions

Balance Your Ceiling Fan Using a Balancing Kit

1. Refer to the original instructions that came with the fan. Follow the steps listed in the manual. If the original manual is not available, look on-line to see if a version of it available on the Web.

2. Turn off the fan.

3. Work on one fan blade at a time. Add a weight and a clip to the blade from your balancing kit.

4. Turn on the fan. If the fan no longer seems to be wobbling, you have found the imbalance.

5. Permanently attach the weight to the blade. Most kits provide weights that have adhesive already attached to them.

6. If the fan is still out of balance, continue to the next blade until you've found the imbalance. This process is often one of trial and error.

Tags: found imbalance, from your

Install A Flushmount Wiring Box

When you are doing electrical wiring in existing walls, you can save time and effort by using flush-mount electrical boxes instead of conventional ones. You have to nail or screw a conventional box to a stud or rafter, but if the wall is covered with drywall, this means cutting out a large section. Flush-mount boxes, also called remodeling boxes, save you this trouble by attaching directly to the surface of the drywall. They have less room inside than conventional boxes, and can't support much weight, but they are adequate for switches, outlets and light fixtures that aren't too heavy.

Instructions

1. Place the flush-mount box upright against the wall or ceiling, making sure there are no studs or rafters behind it. If you are installing a rectangular box on a wall, plumb it with a level. Draw the outline of the back of the box on the wall with a pencil.

2. Force the tip of a drywall saw through the drywall and cut along the outline in even strokes. Remove the off-cut.

3. Run electric cables to the location of the box and pull them out of the hole. Feed them through the self-clamping holes on the back of the remodeling box, pulling out enough wire to make connections.

4. Push the wires into the wall and set the box in the hole. Turn the screws on the front edges with a screwdriver until the anchors attached to the backs of the screws hook around the drywall. When the anchors are in place, tighten the screws to hold the box firmly to the wall.

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Remove An Old Ceiling Light Box

Ceiling light boxes are mounted in a variety of ways. Depending on where the light was installed, the box could be on the ceiling joists, to the side of the ceiling joists or between the joists. Initial installation of a ceiling light box happens during construction and prior to hanging the drywall on the ceiling. Depending on how the old ceiling light box was originally installed, there are several possibilities to remove it. Look inside the light box to determine how it was installed once you remove your light fixture. Turn off the breaker at your main service panel to disconnect the electricity to the circuit before removing any electrical box.

Instructions

Attic Access

1. Go into your attic to identify and remove an old ceiling light box. Both metal and plastic boxes can be mounted to the side of a ceiling joist by driving screws through the bracket permanently attached to the side of the box. Some plastic boxes have nails permanently installed through flanges and nail to the side of the joist. Other ceiling boxes, either plastic or metal, are suspended between the joists from a hanger bar attached to the joist with screws. Boxes can also be mounted with screws through the top of the box and directly into a board attached between the ceiling joists.

2. Turn the screws counterclockwise using a screwdriver or power drill to remove them from the bracket attached to the ceiling box that holds the box to the joist. Turn the box over to determine how the wires secure to the box. If it is a metal box, look for a single screw metal clamp in the top of the box. Loosen the screw and carefully pull the wires from the box. If the wires insert through a twin-screw clamp connector, loosen the two screws on the clamp and carefully pull the wires from the box. If it is a plastic box, use pliers to grab the plastic tab holding the wires and pull the tab until it snaps from the box.

3. Pull the nails out of the joist with a hammer that holds a plastic nail-on ceiling box to the joist. Turn the box over and use pliers to grab the plastic tab holding the wires. Pull the tab until it snaps from the box. Carefully pull the wires from the plastic box.

4. Remove the screws from the ends of a metal hanger bar suspending the ceiling box between the joists. Use a screwdriver or power drill to turn the screws counterclockwise, backing them out of the joists. Turn the box over to determine how the wires secure to the box. A single-screw metal clamp secures the wires to the top of some metal boxes. Turn the screw counterclockwise to loosen the clamp and carefully pull the wires from the box. Loosen the two screws on a twin-screw clamp connector, if the wires are installed through the connector and into the box. Use pliers to break the plastic tab holding the wires inside a plastic box and carefully remove the wires.

5. Remove a box secured by screws to a board attached between the ceiling joists from inside your room. You cannot access this box from the attic.

No Attic Access

6. Look inside the old ceiling box to determine how the box is mounted in the ceiling. Look for screws driven through the box and into a board attached between the ceiling joists. If the box does not appear to have anything holding it to the ceiling, the box either is nailed or screwed to the joist through a bracket or flange permanently attached to the side of the box. To determine whether the box is attached to a hanger bar suspended between the joists, look for two large screws placed next to each other in the top of the box or two bolts sticking through the top of the box attached to the box with nuts. These screws or bolts are a part of the U-bolt suspending the box from the bar.

7. Release the wires from the connectors inside the box before removing the box from the ceiling. Look for a single-screw clamp holding the wires in the top of a metal box. Loosen the screw by turning it counterclockwise with a screwdriver. The wires could be threaded through a twin-screw clamp connector installed in a metal box. A locknut holds the clamp connector to the box. Turn the locknut counterclockwise with pliers to remove it from the connector threads. Break the tabs holding the wires inside a plastic box. Grab the tabs with pliers and pull until they snap from the box. Do not attempt to remove the wires from the box until you pull the box from the ceiling.

8. Turn the screws counterclockwise with a screwdriver or a drill to remove them from a box attached to a board between the ceiling joists. Pull the box from the ceiling. As you pull the box from the ceiling, carefully remove the electrical wires from the box.

9. Take out the screws or remove the nuts from the top of the old ceiling box if it is attached to a hanger bar suspended between the joists. As you pull the box from the ceiling, carefully remove the wires from the box. Push the wires aside and insert a hacksaw through the hole in the ceiling. Cut as much of the hanger bar out of the ceiling with a hacksaw, if necessary. You may not need to remove the bar; it depends upon your intentions for the site.

10. Push the wires aside if the box attaches to the joist by a bracket permanently attached to the side of the box and nailed or screwed to the joist. Insert a large wooden dowel about 12 to 18 inches long into the box. Use a hammer to strike the dowel until you knock the box from the joist. As you pull the box from the ceiling, carefully remove the wires from the box.

Tags: wires from, from ceiling, ceiling joists, between joists, holding wires

Avoid Peeling Off Textured Ceiling Drywall When Painting

Textured ceilings insulate sound so that you don't hear people walking or talking above or below you. While some don't like the look of popcorn or cottage cheese ceilings, the sound barrier that it creates is invaluable to others. When painting, textured ceilings make the painting process more complicated. They are more fragile than smooth drywall and if you paint them incorrectly, you can peel off the texture. Prevent this by using sensitive painting methods and by preparing the ceiling before you paint it.

Instructions

1. Fix any water leaks before you paint the ceiling. Water leaks will cause the ceiling texture to peel off even after you've painted over it. You may need to reapply the texture if this occurs.

2. Remove as much furniture as possible from the room and cover the remaining furniture and floor with drop cloths.

3. Tape the area around the walls that you don't want painted.

4. Put goggles on to protect your eyes from paint that will likely drop from the texture on the ceiling.

5. Pour non-water-based primer into a paint tray if the ceiling is unpainted. Use a roller that is at least 3/4 inch thick. This will press the paint in the nooks and crannies on the ceiling without you having to apply pressure or roll over one area several times.

6. Dip a roller into the primer. Use a long roller pole so you can access the ceiling without getting on a ladder.

7. Roll the primer over the entire ceiling working in sections and overlapping each pass at least 1 inch. Cover the ceiling with one coat of primer and get as close to the walls as possible. Unpainted textured ceilings will absorb a lot of water and paint, which will require you to paint over them several times. Priming prevents you from having to paint over one area multiple times, possibly peeling off the texture.

8. Paint the areas around the wall with a paintbrush. Brush the paint in both directions to completely cover the textured ceiling, but don't push too hard.

9. Let the primer dry completely according to the manufacturer's directions.

10. Pour ceiling paint into a painter's tray.

11. Put a new roller cover on the roller and roll it in the paint.

12. Roll the paint on the ceiling in smooth and even rolls. Don't make several short passes over an area, as this will pull the texture off the wall. Overlap each pass at least 1 inch to prevent streak marks. Don't push the roller into the ceiling, as this could cause the texture to peel off.

13. Paint the area next to the wall with a paintbrush. Work in both directions to paint all of the nooks and crannies, but don't apply too much pressure.

14. Let the paint dry completely according to the manufacturer's directions.

15. Apply a second coat of paint in the same way and let it dry completely.

Tags: least inch, over area, according manufacturer, according manufacturer directions, before paint, both directions

Avoid Dripping Paint When Painting Ceilings

Supplies like drop cloths and painter's tape can help you avoid making messes when painting a room, but painting ceilings still poses distinct challenges. Fortunately, there's a very easy and cheap way to make sure that you don't drip paint onto the floor. Just follow these steps for drip and worry-free overhead painting.

Instructions

1. Prepare your work area so that you can paint without interruption. Set up your stepladder, open and stir your paint and make sure that your paint and paintbrush are within easy reach while on the ladder.

2. Put on your rubber gloves. Turn up the ends of the cuffs a few inches so that they create "cups" into which dripping paint will collect.

3. Start painting. As paint drips from the ceiling or the brush, it should either run down the sides of the glove into the cuff or drip directly into the cuff.

4. If and when paint begins to accumulate in the cuff, just position your hand over the open paint bucket and turn your glove upside down. The paint should drip right back down into your bucket with no mess.

Tags: into cuff, make sure, make sure that, sure that, your paint

Design A Tray Ceiling

Tray ceiling in process

Design A Glass Wall

A little time, a little research, graph paper--you can design a glass wall and bring the outside into your home. In addition to solving the problem of a dark interior space, a glass wall will make a room seem large and airy because it will eliminate the visual barrier created by opaque walls.

Instructions

Designing a Glass Wall

1. Check local building codes before you begin designing your glass wall, to ensure that your design considers code restrictions and requirements.

2. Energy efficiency should be a primary consideration. Using insulated windows or insulated glass doors is an option that will simplify the design process and provide a finished product that is attractive, flexible and energy-efficient.

3. Review neighborhood covenants that might dictate what kinds of changes you are allowed to make to the exterior of your home.

Even if covenants do not exist, the style of the windows or doors you select for your design should be consistent with the style of your home and the existing windows and doors. Exterior continuity will help your project become an asset to your home.

4. Keeping code, neighborhood covenants and style restrictions that define your glass wall project in mind, find products that fit these criteria. Window and door manufacturers publish brochures and catalogues that are available at your local building supply store, or can be requested on line.

5. Use the height and width measurements of the wall you plan to build or replace to draw a two-dimensional scale outline of the blank wall. A pad of 1/4" graph paper will facilitate this task, and use a scale of one inch per foot because it will be large enough to work with. A 12-foot length and 8-foot height will be 12 inches by 8 inches, or 48 squares by 32 squares on your graph paper. Make three or four copies of this elevation outline, and several reverse copies for the exterior design.

6. Add to your elevation outline any interior features that must remain or need to be changed, such as electrical outlets and switches, and HVAC vents. Also allow for building code requirements. For example, if code requires a 12-inch header for each window, you have to allow at least 1 foot at the top of your elevation outline for the structural support of the roof.

7. On a reverse copy of the outline, note permanent exterior features, such as the old oak tree or the large boxwoods that you don't want to move.

8. Use card stock to make two scale templates of each product you selected from the manufacturers' catalogues. A 3-foot by 6-foot window unit will be 3 inches wide and 6 inches high. Write the manufacturer's name and product number on each template.

9. Balance is your primary goal as you arrange and rearrange the templates on your elevation outline. A 2-foot window on one end should be balanced by a 2-foot window at the opposite end. If double French Doors are in the center, the area left of the door unit should mirror the area on the right.

In addition to balance, consider the view of the outside world that each arrangement will create. Structural necessities, such as wall studs, or decorative features, such a window casing or draperies, should not slice through a sunset panorama.

As you create arrangements that you like, draw the templates on a copy of the elevation outline. Note whether spaces between the windows will be filled with molding or wall material. On the back, list the quantity of each item in the design and the manufacturer's name and product number. This information can eventually become your shopping list.

10. Review your two favorite designs from the outside of your home before you make a final choice. This will help you visualize how your glass wall project will look in the context of the rest of your home, and will help you make the correct choice.

Tags: your home, elevation outline, glass wall, will help, your elevation, your elevation outline, your glass

Make An Oscillating Fan Quieter

Oscillating fans make noise for several reasons.

Oscillating fans swivel back and forth, circulating the air in a room and cooling the temperature on hot summer days. The comfort that these fans provide is sometimes canceled out by loud noises that drown out conversations, music and TV programs. These bothersome noises are common, and can usually be eliminated through simple troubleshooting and/or repairs.

Instructions

1. Place your fan on a carpeted surface and turn it on. If the fan was noisy on a hard surface, the rattling noise may be due to the surface, not the fan itself.

2. Clean dirt and dust from your fan. Dust and dirt may cause your fan to make noise when running and can also clog up the fan's internal mechanisms. Release the clamps on the fan grill or use a screwdriver to remove the grill. Clean the blades and everything else you can reach with a soft, damp cloth. Use canned air to dust any parts of the fan you can't reach. Replace the grill and run your fan again to see if this has solved the problem.

3. Inspect your fan's parts (fan guards, emblems and housing) to see if there are any loose objects that may be causing a rattling noise. Tighten any loose parts you find. If you can't tighten parts with a screwdriver or wrench, use tape to secure the loose parts. Run your fan again after tightening to see if this has solved the problem.

4. Align your fan blades. Remove the fan's grill and carefully remove the blade hub. Place the hub on a flat surface and measure each blade's height. If there is more than a ¼ inch difference between any of the blade heights, carefully bend the blades to equalize their heights. Replace the blade hub and grill and run your fan again to see if this has solved the problem.

5. Lubricate your motor bearings. Apply two drops of SAE 20 non-detergent oil to each oil port. If your fan doesn't have any oil ports, spray the shaft near the motor housing with lubricant.

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Install Bathroom Ceiling Tile

Ceramic ceiling tile provides beauty as well as functionality in the bathroom. Aside from enhancing the appearance of the room, ceramic tile is very easy to care for and not easily blemished. Steam and shower spray can damage regular painted ceilings, but ceramic tile actually acts as a protector. Ceramic tile is fairly easy to install, as long as time is taken to ensure a good application.

Instructions

1. Prepare the ceiling by installing the cement board or green drywall; score it with a utility knife to snap it into pieces to fit the area to be tiled, and attach to existing ceiling using galvanized screws set 6 inches apart. Finish seams with the fiberglass tape.

2. Plan your tile pattern by finding the center of the area to be tiled and use the level to figure the intersecting vertical and horizontal lines. Mark this spot with a pencil. "Dry fit" the first row by starting at the center mark and working outward, because both end tiles need to be close to the same size. The vertical center mark may have to be adjusted to accomplish this.

3. Begin installation of the tile by applying a coat of tile adhesive to a 3 inch by 3 inch area, on one side of the center mark, being careful not to cover lines. The smooth side of the trowel should be used to spread the adhesive, then create ridges with the notched side.

4. Press each tile firmly in place with a bit of a twist to be sure it adheres well. Use tile spacers on each corner of each tile for uniform grout lines. If end tiles need to be cut, score the line to be cut with the tile cutter and snap along the line, smoothing the edges with sandpaper to reduce the chances of being cut. Use nippers to remove small pieces, allowing tiles to fit around arches or curves, and let the tile set overnight.

5. Use sanded grout for spaces between tiles that are larger than 1/8 inch. After mixing the grout, apply it with the float to the grout lines, using a 45-degree angle and making sure that the grout reaches the bottom of the seams. Wipe the excess off using a sponge dipped in clean water.

6. Buff the grout with a cloth after letting it dry for 1/2 hour, and then again after 24 hours, removing any dull residue. Seal edges that meet with the tub or vanity with silicone caulk. Use a spray-on shower cleaner with mildew-resistant agents to keep the ceramic tile and grout looking like new.

Tags: center mark, area tiled, ceramic tile, each tile, grout lines, tiles need

Estimate Drywall Cost

Estimate Drywall Cost

When you are remodeling your home, you might find it necessary to add walls or redo existing ones. In order to do this, you will need drywall. Drywall, or gypsum board, came into use after World War II and became especially widespread in the 1960s. If your home's construction took place after this time, your walls are likely made of drywall. To get a rough idea of how much the drywall you need for your remodeling project will cost, there are several factors you must consider.

Instructions

1. Determine the type of drywall. This depends on the type of room and your local building code. There are three main types of drywall.

Use regular drywall for most rooms. Use 1/2-inch-thick drywall for walls and ceilings with stud spacing of 16 inches on center, and 5/8-inch-thick drywall for stud spacing of 24 inches on center, unless local codes specify otherwise. Sheets that are 4 feet by 8 feet are best for homeowners, as they are not too large to be unwieldy.

Water-resistant drywall is best for bathrooms. Other names for waterresistant drywall include moisture-resistant, WR, MR and green board. Water-resistant drywall is available in 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch-thick sheets.

Fire-resistant, or type X, drywall, is common for walls between apartments. Your local building code also might require its use between an attached garage and your home. Type X drywall is 5/8 inch thick.

2. Measure your room carefully. Draw out your measurements on graph paper, including spaces that do not need drywall, like doors and windows. Draw the ceiling layout to reflect installation perpendicular to the ceiling joists, to calculate the correct amount of drywall. If your ceiling is less than 8 feet high, plan for horizontal drywall placement on the walls. This means you'll place the drywall with the longer (8-foot) side parallel to the floor. Vertical drywall installation, with the shorter side of the drywall parallel to the floor, is best for rooms with higher ceilings.

3. To estimate the square footage of drywall you need, add all the lengths of the room's walls together. Round up to the next whole foot for ease of estimation. Multiply this figure by the ceiling height rounded up to the next whole foot. This is the total square footage of the walls in your room. Calculate the square footage of each window and door opening, and add them all together, rounding up to the next whole foot. Subtract the surface area of the doors and windows from the total square footage of the walls in your room to get the final square footage of drywall you need. You can divide your total by 32 to calculate how many 4-by-8-foot drywall panels you will require. You can also use an online calculator, such as the one at www.bobvila.com. Add about 10 percent to your calculations for waste and cuts.

4. Calculate installation accessories. These items include nails, drywall tape and joint compound. The online calculator at www.bobvila.com will calculate these items, but you can also make an estimate. Count on needing approximately one gallon of joint compound for every 200 square feet of drywall and five and a quarter pounds of nails for every 1,000 square feet of drywall. You will need at least 120 feet of drywall tape for a 200-square-foot drywall job and 500 feet for a 1,000-square-foot job.

5. Contact your local home improvement store for price quotes on the drywall and accessories. Multiply each item's cost by the number of that item you'll need. Figure in sales tax, and you have a fairly accurate estimate of the cost of a do-it-yourself drywall project. If you have a contractor install your drywall, get a labor estimate from him. A typical drywall labor cost is about $1 per square foot but can vary.

Tags: square footage, drywall need, feet drywall, next whole, next whole foot

Install Thermoplastic Ceiling Tiles

Create the look of a tin ceiling with thermoplastic tiles.

Thermoplastic ceiling tiles, also known as faux tin tiles, give homeowners the look of classic tin ceilings without the high cost of tin ceiling panels. Glued directly to a prepared ceiling surface, thermoplastic ceiling tiles come in a variety of colors and styles. The tiles can closely replicate the tin tiles they're based upon, from newly installed tile surfaces to tiles that have been in place for the decades required to develop the prized patina for which older tiled surfaces are known.

Instructions

1. Prepare the ceiling for tile installation. Place a dropcloth on the floor beneath the ceiling and mask off the edges of the walls where they join the ceiling. Cut all power to the room from the breaker box and then remove any fixtures in the ceiling using a screwdriver.

2. Spray textured ceilings with water in a small 4-by-4-foot section. Allow the water to seep into the texture for five minutes. Remove any texture on the ceiling by scraping it off with a floor scraper. Move on to the next section and repeat the process until you've removed all the texture. Sand the ceiling smooth with a hand-held sander. Use a ladder to reach the ceiling. Take care not to damage the drywall material of the ceiling when removing the texture.

3. Paint the ceiling with a coat of primer paint using a long-handled roller in order to create a smooth installation surface for the tiles. Allow the paint to dry for 24 hours before installing the tiles.

4. Plan the placement of the tiles prior to installation. Plan the ceiling design from the center of the ceiling outward. Determine the total ceiling space by measuring the length and width of the ceiling in feet, and then multiplying the measurements to get the square footage. Use this measurement to determine the number of full tiles required. After determining the placement of full tiles, determine the number of border tiles you will require to fill the space from the edge of the full tiles to the ceiling edges. Each row and column of tiles will require two border tiles on each end.

5. Mark the center of the ceiling by using a chalk line. Measure each wall and place a mark on the center in the center of each. Attach one end of the string of a chalk line to the ceiling at a mark using a tack. Stretch the line to the opposing center wall mark and hold the string to the ceiling's surface. Pull down lightly on the chalk line and then release it to snap against the ceiling, leaving a line of chalk down the center between the opposing wall marks. Do the same for the other two opposing wall marks to create a cross where the lines meet in the center of the ceiling.

6. Install the edge J-Trims around the border of the ceiling. Remove the masking tape and then screw the trim into place using drywall screws so that the longer end of the trim rests against the ceiling with the curved end against the walls.

7. Install the tiles according to your designs beginning at the center of the room and using the right angles created by the chalk lines as guides for the first four tiles. Spread tile adhesive to the ceiling using a notched trowel, first spreading a layer of adhesive onto the surface, then tilting the trowel to a 45-degree angle and running the notches along the adhesive to raise ridges for easier gripping. Press the tile onto the adhesive, using the angled lines as a guide. Hold the tile to the ceiling for 30 seconds to set it in place. Place the other three starting tiles around the center point to create a beginning square. Work outwards toward the edges of the ceiling, placing tiles until the space between a tile edge and the ceiling edge is less than that of a full-sized tile.

8. Cut tiles for placement over fixture holes by measuring the space on the tile where the fixture hole will sit and then marking the area on the rear of the tile with a market. Cut the space from the tile with the tin snips and then test the cut by placing the tile onto the space, making sure the cut aligns properly. Glue the correctly cut tiles into place.

9. Install the border tiles. Measure the distance between the last row of tiles and the ceiling edge. Cut the border tiles with the tin snips to fit. Apply the adhesive directly to the rear of the tiles and then slide the cut edge of the tile into the curve of the J-trim piece. Fit the border tile tightly against the full-sized tile of the row, making sure the tile joints align. Hold the border tile in place 30 seconds to set.

10. Wait one hour after tile installation and then press upwards on all ceiling tiles to make sure they're all firmly in the tile adhesive.

Tags: border tiles, ceiling tiles, ceiling using, ceiling with, center ceiling, chalk line

Make A Battery Operated Fan

Battery powered fans can be used in locations without AC power.

Battery powered fans are used at home, in offices and on vehicles. They are great for places where you cannot easily access electricity. They are also good for places where a large noisy fan may not be appropriate due to space concerns. Battery operated fans also have the advantage of being easily adaptable to solar power. As the race to conserve energy increases, this is becoming another area of interest. Making a battery powered fan requires only a few items.

Instructions

1. Cut two 12-inch pieces of black, 16-gauge wire and one 12-inch piece of red, 12-inch wire. Strip one-half of an inch of insulation off of each end of each wire.

2. Connect one end of the first black wire to the negative terminal of the battery. Connect the other end of first black wire to one of the two terminals on the switch. Connect one end of the second black wire to the second terminal of the switch. Take the second end of the second black wire and connect it to the negative terminal of the fan motor.

3. Connect one end of the red wire to the positive terminal of the battery and connect the other end of the red wire to the positive terminal of the motor. Turn the switch to the "on" position. The motor should start.

4. Turn the motor off and attach the fan blades to the motor shaft. Turn the motor back on and check for air coming from the front of the fan. If the air is felt at the back of the fan the fan blades are on backwards and must be reversed.

Tags: black wire, Battery powered fans, fans used, first black, first black wire, negative terminal

Do Drywall Ceiling Design

Create unique ceiling drywall designs with the use of various tools and design methods.

Drywall is the material that is used to texture and decorate ceilings and walls. Also known as sheet rock in the trade, drywall comes in various levels of thickness and finishes that provide structure and enhance visual appeal in a room. Creating different drywall designs requires slightly different application methods. Some popular designs include popcorn, twirl and skim.

Instructions

1. Apply popcorn drywall layer with a hopper gun, which is often available for rent at hardware supply stores. Wait until the popcorn layer dries then apply an additional coat. Mix glitter into the drywall mix in the gun to get a deco look. Popcorn drywall design was popularized in the late 1970s and can still be seen in new construction today. Ask the rental store clerk for a hopper gun demonstration, though they're fairly easy to use.

2. Use a trowel to create a "swirl" drywall design. A trowel is a flat blade attached to a handle resembling a putty knife. Smooth the joint compound over the ceiling in a swirling motion. Overlap each application to create a swirling finish. Use a paint brush over your application to create a more ornamental swirl design.

3. Create a "skim" coat by applying a very thin coat of joint compound. Spread the compound evenly with a trowel over the entire ceiling to achieve a plaster look. Push the paint bristles straight up and pull away from the ceiling to create a skim finish.

Tags: application create, drywall design, drywall designs, joint compound

Attach Glow Stars To The Ceiling From Strings

Bring the wonder of a starry sky indoors.

Most children would love to fall asleep under the gentle glow of starlight. Camping in the backyard is one option, but it's easy to bring the starlight inside. You can find plastic glow-in-the-dark stars in many discount stores. Once light activates the stars, their greenish glow lasts for several hours after dark. Your children can drift off to dreams of space travel and astronauts under their own starry sky.

Instructions

1. Cut a length of fishing wire for each star, making each piece a different length between 6 inches and 18 inches.

2. Tape one end of each wire to the back of a star.

3. Loop the free end of each wire into a small circle and fasten with a knot.

4. Determine your star pattern. Scatter the stars across the ceiling, cluster them near the bed or lay out constellations.

5. Attach the stars to the ceiling with a push pin through the fishing wire loop.

Tags: each wire, fishing wire

Install A Ceiling Fan Dimmer

Install a ceiling fan dimmer switch to get more control over the speed of a fan. Typical ceiling fans have three speeds on a pull chain switch. A dimmer allows you to set the speed at any level between the highest and lowest speeds. Some electricians advise against use of a dimmer for a fan because the wrong type of switch will burn out a fan motor. Dimmer switches made for lighting are not power rated for ceiling fans. Yet there are dimmers made specifically for handling the load of fan motors. Install a proper dimmer on a fan that is exclusively controlled by a single switch.

Instructions

1. Check the amperage on the fan. The amps will be listed on the package or brochure that came with the fan. Consult the manufacturer for details if the original packaging is not available.

2. Buy a dimmer switch and matching plate. Both are available at hardware stores. Select a dimmer that is marked for use with fans. Make sure it is rated for as much or more amperage as the fan it is intended to control. Typically a ceiling fan runs 3.5 amps and the dimmer switches made for them carry 5 amps. Choose a matching-colored face plate with a center hole if the package does not include one. If connector screw caps are not included, you will need to buy two of those.

3. Turn off the breaker switch to cut power to the circuit controlling the fan. This will take trial and error if the breaker box switches are not marked. Turn on the fan, then shut off individual switches until one of them turns the fan off. Leave a note or a lock on the breaker box to ensure that no one turns the power on while you are working.

4. Remove the wall switch. Flip the switch on and off to be sure there is no power running to the circuit. Unscrew the face plate. Remove the screws holding the switch on the box.

5. Look at the wires and the terminals. One of the terminals will be dark or copper-colored. That is the common terminal and the wire connected to it is the hot wire. Make a note of the insulation color of the hot wire. It should be black or blue. The other wire connected to a terminal is the neutral wire, which should be white. There may also be a ground wire screwed to an upper outside terminal. The ground wire and terminal screw should be green.

6. Remove the wires and check them for wear. Unscrew the terminal connections to free the exposed wires. Snip the ends off and splice 1/4 inch of the insulation off if the wires are frayed or dull-colored.

7. Attach the new wires. The package your switch came in will clearly identify the wires attached to the switch. Twist the hot wire from the wall around the common or hot wire leading from the new switch. Twist a connector cap on until all exposed wire is covered. Connect the neutral wires in the same way. If the old switch had a ground wire connected, use the ground terminal on the new switch to connect that.

8. Secure the switch and plate. Gently push the wires into the switch box and tighten the two screws that hold the switch in place. Pull the dimmer dial off. Put the switch place in place over the switch and tighten the two screws to hold it on. Push the dimmer dial back on over the post.

9. Turn power on and check the switch. Flip the breaker switch back on. Push the dimmer dial and turn to either side. The fan should run fastest when the dial is turned fully clockwise.

Tags: dimmer dial, ground wire, wire connected, breaker switch, ceiling fans, dimmer switch

Wire A Broan Exhaust Fan

Bathrooms have many spaces where excess moisture can cause damage.

Wet bathrooms can harbor mildew and molds of all kinds and shorten the life of your bathroom walls and fixtures. A good exhaust fan can help route moist air out of a bathroom and diminish the negative effects of excessive moisture. Broan manufactures exhaust fans that can help divert air quietly and efficiently. You can wire a Broan exhaust fan using some basic materials and wiring techniques. This installation is for a ceiling-mounted fan.

Instructions

Running the Wires

1. At the main circuit breaker, turn off the power to the room where you will be installing the exhaust fan.

2. Unscrew and remove the cover of a Broan exhaust fan to expose the black, white and bare electrical wires behind it.

3. Tape the end of a length of 120-volt AC wiring to the tip of a wire running kit with electrical tape.

4. Insert the wire running kit in the ceiling behind the exhaust fan.

5. Push the wire running kit across the interior surface of the ceiling toward the location of the junction box where the switch will be installed. When you reach where the ceiling meets the wall, continue to push the wire running kit until the end appears in the wall by the junction box.

6. Pull the tip of the wire running kit through the junction box and remove the electrical tape holding the tip of the wire to the kit.

7. Tape the wire against the wall with electrical tape to prevent it from falling back inside the wall.

8. Cut the other end of the wire, which will be attached to the exhaust fan. Allow about 1 foot of extra length.

9. Remove approximately 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of the wire at the exhaust fan, using a utility knife.

10. Splice the exhaust fan's black wire to the wire running to the switch, using a twist-on wire connector.

11. Using masking tape and a marker, label with the word "black" the wire at the switch. This will help you identify the wire when connecting it to the switch. Repeat running, cutting, splicing and labeling the wire with the fan's remaining white and bare wires.

12. Replace the cover on the exhaust fan and screw it into place.

Wiring the Switch

13. Splice the wire running from the fan's bare wire to the ground wire of the junction box with a twist-on wire connector.

14. Splice the wire running from the fan's white wire to the white wire from the building's electrical supply at the switch plate with a twist-on wire connector.

15. Wrap the wire running from the fan's black wire around the upper terminal, usually labeled "Top" in most switches, on the switch and tighten it in place with a screwdriver.

16. Wrap the black wire from the building's power supply at the junction box around the lower terminal on the switch and tighten it in place with a screwdriver.

17.Line up the screw holes of the switch with the screw holes in the junction box. Insert screws into the holes and screw them in place with a screwdriver.

18. Set the face plate of the switch in place over the switch and secure it with the included screws using a screwdriver.

Tags: wire running, black wire, electrical tape, place with, place with screwdriver, running from, twist-on wire

Change A Bulb In A Flushmounted Light Fixture

A flush-mounted light fixture is a type of light fixture that is installed on a ceiling, with its rim positioned flush against the ceiling. This type of ceiling light fixture is often used in bedrooms, hallways and foyers, and is recommended for use with lower ceilings.

Instructions

Spring-Loaded Light Fixture

1. Flush-mounted light fixtures that are spring-loaded will typically have two springs holding the metal collar in place.

2. Using the flathead screwdriver or razor knife, loosen the paint by moving around the metal collar where it attaches to the ceiling.

3. Attempt to pry the light fixture from the springs by pulling down with your hands.

4. If you cannot remove fixture with your hands, use the flathead screwdriver or razor knife to pry it off by sliding it under the mouth of the metal collar and prying down.

5. The light fixture will hold itself in place as you change the bulb. Simply remove the existing bulb and replace it with the new one.

6. Replace the fixture by popping it back into place.

Screw-Off Light Fixture

7. Screw-off flush-mounted light fixtures either have glass globes that unscrew from the metal collar or a metal base that unscrews from the globe.

8. For fixtures that unscrew from the metal collar, begin unscrewing the globe counterclockwise with your hands. Some fixtures will only unscrew one-fourth of a turn, while others need to be turned multiple times to remove.

9. For fixtures that unscrew from a metal base, unscrew the base counterclockwise, using your hands.

10. Once the globe is off, remove the existing bulb and replace it with the new one.

11. Replace the globe by screwing it back on.

Tags: light fixture, metal collar, your hands, fixtures that, from metal, Light Fixture

What Are Air Hogs Propeller Specifications

You can get replacement propellers from the manufacturer.

Unfortunately toys are not perfect and can break at times. The same is true with Air Hogs helicopters. Air Hogs has a large selection of helicopters for those who are into remote control vehicles. If you should happen to break a propeller on the helicopter, there are a few choices you have for getting it fixed or getting it replaced. But the first thing you need to know is the Air Hogs' propeller specifications.

Identify your Air Hog

Before you are able to find out what type of propeller your Air Hogs helicopter needs, you must first know the name it. You can find the name of your helicopter on the box that it came in or go to the Air Hogs website and find the name of your Air Hogs helicopter.

Tail Propellers

It is very easy to break the tail propellers as you fly your helicopter. You can smash them into couches and ceiling fans or you may have tried to bend them back into shape. If you plan on buying replacement tail propellers for a Havoc style helicopter the specifications for them are 1.2" or 3.0 cm in diameter.

Main rotors

Crashes are a common cause for broken propellers. It may be wise to keep a spare just in case yours become broken. The specifications for the Air Hogs Havoc helicopters main rotor blades are 5.2" or 13.2 cm in diameter.

Contact the Manufacturer

If you are having trouble finding the specifications for your Air Hogs helicopter propeller, you can contact Air Hogs. You will find their contact information on the Air Hogs website. At the bottom of the Air Hogs website home page, choose "Customer Care." You will be given an email address to contact them where they receive any questions and concerns about measurements and specifications.

Tags: Hogs helicopter, Hogs website, your Hogs, your Hogs helicopter, find name

Instructions For A Ceiling Mount Of An Indoor Light Fixture

A standard ceiling light connects to your home's electrical system via just two wires: a black, or positive, wire and a neutral white wire. In many cases, there will also be a bare copper ground wire, which is there to give the electricity somewhere to go in case of a surge. Mounting a ceiling light is surprisingly easy once you know the basics, as long as there is a properly installed electrical box in place.

Instructions

1. Shut down the power to the existing fixture at your home's circuit box.

2. Climb a stepladder so you can reach the existing ceiling light fixture. Remove the screws that hold the old fixture to the ceiling, using your screwdriver. Disconnect the wires behind it so you can remove it entirely. You should be left with an exposed electrical box and three wires: black, white and bare copper.

3. Press the mounting plate that came with the new fixture onto the electrical box. Secure it with the provided screws.

4. Connect the copper wire to the green ground screw on the bracket, wrapping it around the screw. Tighten the screw.

5. Use your wire caps to connect the wires from the new fixture to the wires from the electrical box, twisting a cap over each pair of wires. Connect them black to black and white to white.

6. Tuck the two wire connections into the electrical box as you press the fixture to the bracket. Secure the fixture to the bracket, using the screws that came with the fixture.

7. Turn on the power.

Tags: ceiling light, bare copper, black white, came with, came with fixture, fixture bracket

Adapt A Hampton Bay Fan With Lighting

Hampton Bay manufactures ceiling fans in several styles and sizes. Light kits are available that you can add to your existing fan. One style is a single downward light kit that can be fitted directly under the fan and another is a four-light fixture that points outward. Kits are sold in metallic finishes to match the ceiling fan hardware or in a flat black to blend in with the fan.

Instructions

1. Turn the electrical breaker to the fan off.

2. Insert a screwdriver into the bottom center screw on the fan housing cover. Turn the screw counterclockwise to loosen it and pull it straight out. Pull the housing cover straight down and off the fan.

3. Pull the blue and white wires out of the fan housing. Pull the wire nut off the end of each wire by twisting and pulling at the same time.

4. Hold the light kit underneath the fan. Twist the white light-kit wire and the white fan wire together clockwise. Place a wire nut on the junction and press it on while turning it clockwise.

5. Twist the black light-kit wire and the blue fan wire together clockwise. Place a wire nut on the junction and push it on while turning it clockwise.

6. Tuck the wiring into the fan housing and raise the light kit to the housing. Align the keyhole slots on the light kit with the three screw holes on the side of the fan housing. Insert a screw into each screw slot and tighten them clockwise.

7. Turn the thumbscrew on each light fixture counterclockwise. Slide the light fixtures onto the metal mounts and tighten the thumbscrew clockwise. Insert a light bulb into each fixture.

8. Turn on the fan's electrical breaker.

Tags: clockwise Place, clockwise Place wire, electrical breaker, housing cover, into each, light-kit wire

Types Of Ceilings

A ceiling style and covering add architectural and aesthetic qualities to the room. Ceiling styles and coverings can be combined to create a unique environment and accent the era and style of the home. High ceilings add a distinctly open feel to the room. Lower ceilings create a closer, cozier environment.

Drywall, Plaster and Lathe

Drywall ceilings are the most common type of ceiling. Plaster and lathe ceilings are often found in older houses. Both types of ceilings can be painted, wallpapered and covered with a variety of covering options such as tin, ply and batten, or stretched PVC. Drywall ceilings are easy to maintain with a fresh coat of paint every three to five years. They are also easy to repair from water damage with a patch of drywall and plaster.

Tongue and Groove

Tongue and groove ceilings are covered with tongue and groove wood or plastic tongue and groove products. These ceilings take a lot of time to install because each piece has to be finished with stain and sealant or paint, cut to size, and nailed into place. This type of ceiling should be cleaned annually with warm soapy water to prevent discoloration from airborne dirt and grease. Repairs from water or other damage may require replacing the entire ceiling.

Suspended Tile

Suspended tile ceilings are often installed to cover damage to the original ceiling, to lower the ceiling or to add acoustical properties for rooms such as a home theater. A grid of tees is installed to hold the tiles in place, and the tiles are inserted in the grid tees. The tiles are easily removed for cleaning when necessary. Repairs to damaged tiles are performed by simply replacing the damaged tile.

Dome, Cathedral, Cove, Tray and Shed

Flat ceilings are the most common, however, architectural designs enhance the look of a home. Domed ceilings have a dome shape, curved from the sides to the top. Cathedral ceilings angle up to a central peak. Cove ceilings have a curved edge around the perimeter where the ceiling meets the walls. Tray ceilings have an angle around the perimeter where the ceiling meets the walls. A shed ceiling has an angle, similar to a cathedral ceiling, to the central peak. However, the other side of the peak is a solid vertical wall to the floor.

Considerations

When choosing a ceiling type for your home, take the cost of heating and cooling into consideration. High ceilings increase the amount of heat needed in the winter because heat rises. Lower ceilings increase the cost of cooling because the heat is trapped in a lower area. Fans, windows and vents can be incorporated into the design to improve heating and cooling efficiency and decrease heating and cooling costs.

Tags: ceilings have, heating cooling, around perimeter, around perimeter where, because heat, ceiling meets

What Causes Dirty Ceiling Diffusers

Ceiling diffusers are a common element in ventilation systems, particularly in industrial buildings. These fixtures, like wall-mounted registers in residential ventilation systems, are the source from which air flows. Used in overhead ventilation systems, these elements are notorious for developing dust and becoming surrounded by smudges, potentially making them quite the eyesore. There are a number of factors that contribute to this dirt development.

Air Turbulence

Because there is usually a great degree of force behind the air that shoots out of ceiling diffusers in industrial ventilation systems, these diffusers are often surrounded by turbulent air. When particles of dirt get caught up in this turbulent air, they hit the ceiling and, at least some of them, stick, creating unsightly streaks on the ceiling directly surrounding the diffuser.

Dust

Just like any other rarely touched item within a room, ceiling diffusers are prone to becoming a home for dust. Despite the fact that air shoots out of these vents, blowing off some dust, some sections of the diffuser will experience air running directly over them, allowing dust buildup to develop. This dust development is particularly common in the center of the diffuser as well as along the perimeter as neither of these areas experience much breeze.

Humidity

Humidity can also play a part in diffuser dirtiness. When humidity is high, the dust that flies through the air will meet with this moisture and more easily build up on the diffuser and the surrounding ceiling. Because of this, areas that often experience high humidity may also be home to generally dirtier diffusers.

Room Uses

The manner in which the room featuring the diffuser is used will contribute greatly to how dirty the diffuser becomes. Rooms in which dust and dirt are plentiful, such as copy rooms where toner often escapes into the air or storage spaces in which dust commonly settles, will likely have dirtier diffusers than rooms in which these dirt sources aren't present. Because dirty diffusers can lead to poor air quality, cleaning diffusers when they acquire dirt is a wise choice.

Tags: ventilation systems, dirtier diffusers, systems these, that shoots, ventilation systems these, which dust

Read Futures Charts

Futures charts help determine futures market trends.

Futures charts depict market trends for futures contracts by closely following the price changes. In general, reading any securities chart falls under the umbrella of technical analysis. The purpose of technical analysis is to determine market trends to execute the appropriate strategy and, consequently, make money. Before attempting to read futures charts, it is helpful to study the fundamentals of futures. The charts may show different time periods, so it is imperative to pay attention to the type of timing the chart is showing to draw the correct conclusions.

Instructions

1. Gather basic information. Review the chart and verify that you are looking at the correct future. Figure out what time period the chart is depicting, whether 1 day, 1 week or 3 months.

2. Study the price bars. The point at the top of the bar represents the highest price for a given period (minute, hour, day), while the point at the bottom of the bar represents the lowest price for the same period. Take note of the opening and closing prices for your future; the short line on the left side of the bar represents the opening price and the line on the right represents the closing price. Determine whether your security opened high and experienced a drop in price in a given time period or if it opened low and experienced a price increase.

3. Predict whether the price of your future is on the rise or is getting ready to decline. See if you can draw a straight line up through the lowest points of each bar; if you can, it is a signal of an uptrend. Likewise, a straight downward line drawn through the high price points of the price bars signifies a downtrend.

If you find two or more of the same high price points close together and can draw a horizontal line through them, then you have found resistance---a perceived price ceiling that has been acting as a barrier to prices, preventing them from going any higher. Likewise, if you see two or more low price points and can draw a line through them, you have found what's called a support.

Set Styrofoam Ceiling Tiles

Styrofoam ceiling tiles are cheap, effective materials to dampen sound. You'll find them most often in office settings, particularly office buildings with modular walls that can be shifted at need to create new office suite layouts. The plastic foam ceiling tiles are set in place on a horizontal grid of metal bars, already in place in the ceiling, with regular openings sized to each receive exactly one ceiling tile.

Instructions

1. Set up a folding ladder directly beneath where you'll be installing the ceiling tiles. Make sure the ladder legs are locked in place and that the ladder is on a stable, solid surface.

2. Carry one ceiling tile up the ladder with you, or have someone hand it to you once you're up the ladder. Depending on how tall the ladder is, you might be able to place the tile across the top of the ladder before you climb it.

3. Turn the ceiling tile on its side and angle it a bit to pass it all the way through the metal grid into the empty space above.

4. Angle the tile again so that it's completely flat, with the bottom side (the flat surface with the holes in it) facing down toward you. Place your hands flat on the bottom of the tile, so that you're holding it up like a serving platter.

5. Lower the tile into place on the lipped edges of the grid; it should settle perfectly into the grid.

6. Go back down the ladder, move the ladder directly beneath the next grid tile to be installed, and repeat the process. Move the ladder for each tile you install; reaching out to the side, front or behind your center of balance to install additional tiles without moving the ladder might cause the ladder to tip over.

Tags: ceiling tile, ceiling tiles, directly beneath, ladder directly, ladder directly beneath, ladder might

Assemble A Harbor Breeze Fan

Assemble a Harbor Breeze celing fan.

Harbor Breeze ceiling fans are made and sold exclusively at Lowe's home improvement stores. They come in varying sizes, finishes and styles and are reasonably priced. Ceiling fans help to conserve energy throughout the seasons since they can blow cool air in the summer and circulate warm air in the winter.

Instructions

1. Attach your blades to the blade brackets. For downrod fans, simply slip the canopy over the downrod before attaching the downrod to the fan. For a close mount or a fan that doesn't hug, you should attach the canopy directly to the motor. If there is a light fitter among your fan parts, you can wait to attach it once the fan is on the ceiling.

2. Take the mounting bracket and attach it to the fan brace. In lieu of the fan brace, you may need to attach it to the ceiling outlet box.

3. Use the mounting bracket to hang the motor assembly. Look for a small hook or a ball on the end of the downrod. Ensure the ball line's groove matches up with the bracket or canopy tab.

4. Connect the wires. Make sure that you turn off the power at the main breaker before you do the wire connection. You should never connect the wires if the power is still on.

5. Take the canopy and attach it to the mounting bracket. Some fans will call for two thumbscrews while others may require four. Finishing the assembly of a hugger fan will include attaching the motor to the mounting bracket with varying numbers of locknuts. After you have attached the motor, place the motor housing cover next to the mounting bracket.

6. Attach the blades to the motor with the blade bracket. Two screws will fit directly to the motor.

7. Attach the light kit to the glass, as well as any other decorative pieces that were included in the package.

Tags: mounting bracket, Harbor Breeze, Assemble Harbor, Assemble Harbor Breeze, directly motor

Diy Garage Ceiling Pulley Storage System

Pulleys change the direction of a force so you can lift something while pulling down on a rope.

Keep bulky, lightweight items like bicycles and ladders off the floor without sacrificing accessibility by installing a pulley storage system. This type of storage system relies on the strength of the pulley and its connection to the ceiling. Lag screws are used to attach the pulleys to ceiling joists because these longer, wider screws are capable of supporting greater loads than ordinary wood screws. Pulleys and rope for the storage system are both readily available from home improvement stores. Check the weight rating for both and purchase rope and pulleys capable of supporting heavy loads to prevent failure of the pulley storage system in the pulley itself.

Instructions

1. Find one ceiling joist in your garage with a stud finder.

2. Place one of the flat-mount pulleys against the ceiling along the ceiling joist. Mark the bolt holes on the pulley's mount on the ceiling with a pencil. Repeat marking the holes 36 inches down the ceiling joist from the first pulley.

3. Drill the marked holes using 3/8-inch drill bit.

4. Place a pulley against the ceiling so that its screw holes line up with the pilot holes. Screw four lag bolts into the holes on the mounting plate of the pulley using a ratchet wrench. Install the second pulley the same way.

5. Screw a cleat into a stud in the wall with wood screws so it is aligned with the two pulleys on the ceiling. The cleat should be at chest level.

6. Cut a length of 40-foot rope in half to make two 20-foot long sections.

7. Tie an s-hook to the end of each rope length.

8. Thread the free end of one rope through the pulley nearest the cleat.

9. Insert the free end of the second rope through the pulley farthest from the cleat and over the pulley closest to the cleat. Adjust the ropes so the two s-hooks hanging down from the pulleys are at the same level.

10. Wrap the free ends of the ropes around the cleat in a figure eight to secure them.

11. Raise the ropes pull the item to the ceiling for storage. Lower the ropes to bring the item down to the garage floor.

Tags: ceiling joist, storage system, against ceiling, capable supporting, pulley storage system, pulleys ceiling

Reinforce A Ceiling For A Chandelier

The chandelier must anchor to a brace that sits above the ceiling.

Chandeliers come with a ceiling brace, which anchors the chandelier to the wood joists above the ceiling. Without the brace, the weight of the chandelier would pull it from the ceiling, causing damage to the drywall or plaster and potentially breaking the chandelier. If you find that your chandelier did not come with a brace, consult your local home improvement or lighting store for a brace that is strong enough for the weight of your new chandelier.

Instructions

1. Turn off the electricity to the room where you plan to install the chandelier, using the house's electrical breaker panel. Plug in and turn on a lamp in the room, helping you monitor if the electricity to the room is suddenly restored.

2. Remove the screws holding the old light fixture to the ceiling, and then pull down the light fixture to expose the wiring. Turn the plastic wire nuts counterclockwise from the wire connections, and then twist the wire connections counterclockwise until they come apart as well.

3. Back out any screws holding the old light fixture's electrical box in place, and then pull the box out of the ceiling. Loosen the screws that hold the electrical wire to the box. If the electrical box was anchored to a skinny metal bar, cut through the bar with a close-quarters hacksaw, and then remove the bar's two pieces from the ceiling.

4. Rotate the new chandelier brace's bar clockwise until the brace is as short as possible. Insert the bar into the ceiling through the existing hole. Position the bar so both set of feet sit on top of the ceiling, and then turn the brace's bar counterclockwise until the ends of the bars press firmly against the joists in the ceiling.

5. Pop out one of the doors on the side of the new chandelier's electrical box, using a flat-head screwdriver. Feed about 6 inches of the electrical wiring from the ceiling into the electrical box through the door, and then tighten the screws inside the box to hold the wire in place.

6. Insert the new electrical box into the opening in the ceiling. Line up the screw holes in the new box with the screw holes in the brace, and then drive screws into the box and brace to hold it into place. Twist the like-colored wires from the chandelier and ceiling together, and then twist the screw nuts over the wire connections. Drive the screws through the domed piece of the chandelier and into the screw holes in the electrical box. Restore the electricity to the room using the house's electrical breaker panel.

Tags: electricity room, from ceiling, light fixture, screw holes, wire connections, above ceiling