Create Access To A Ceiling Attic

No matter how well built or professionally maintained your house is, at some point you will have to have repairs and upgrades performed on it. Some of these repairs or upgrades will happen in the attic. Whether running wires, repairing ductwork or adding insulation, a proper attic access is important. The access has to be constructed properly so it not only allows adequate access to the attic, but also supports the weight of those who enter the attic through the access.

Instructions

1. The ideal location for an attic access is a closet. The closet must be at least 24 inches deep to accommodate an access. If you lack a closet of this depth, choose a bedroom or hallway area that is out of sight of the main living area.

2. Lay down plastic below the area you have chosen for your access, to catch any mess you will make. Set up your stepladder on the plastic.

3. Measure 36 inches from the nearest wall with a measuring tape and make a mark. If you chose a hallway, measure the width of the hallway and mark the center of the hallway width on the ceiling. Then measure 12 inches away from this mark in all directions and mark these distances. You will need to make several marks. Keep the marks square by maintain the same measurement from the wall that you started with. Once the marks are on the ceiling, connect them and you will have the outline of your access panel.

4. Cut along the lines you made with a utility knife. Go very slowly and follow the lines precisely. Repeat until the ceiling panel you have cut is loose and can be removed. Set it aside for use later on.

5. Measure the distance between the ceiling joists. Cut two of the two-by-four boards this distance with a miter saw. Measure 1/2 inch back from the edge of your access hole and make several marks along this side. Line up the two-by-four on the marks so that 1/2 inch remains around the perimeter. Screw the two-by-fours to the ceiling joists with a cordless drill. Repeat this step on the other two sides of the access hole.

6. Using a circular saw, cut 12-inch-square pieces of 1/2-inch plywood from the 4-foot by 4-foot sheet. Measure the distance on the inside of the two-by-four boards you installed in Step 5. Cut two pieces of 1/2-inch plywood the distance you just measured. The other two pieces should be cut 1 inch less than this distance. Attach the two longer plywood pieces to the two-by-fours with screws. Secure them so that they are flat against the two-by-fours and even with the 1/2-inch drywall lip from Step 5, extending up toward the attic ceiling. The other two plywood pieces will go between them on the perpendicular sides of the access. Use screws at the tops of the plywood pieces to tie them together. When completed, you will have four plywood walls surrounding the opening to prevent insulation from falling onto the access panel lid. You should be able to put your full body weight on the access blockade walls you made.

7. Cut four pieces of the 1-inch by 2-inch board with the miter saw so they create a frame with a 3/4-inch lip under the attic access. Attach the boards with screws. Use caulk or wood filler to fill over the screw holes. Paint or stain the trim to match the house trim.

8. Take the piece of drywall you cut out of the ceiling and run your utility knife along the edges, keeping the blade flat. This will remove inconsistencies and make the panel fit better. Dry-fit the panel in the access. Trim until the panel easily fits into place.

Tags: attic access, plywood pieces, will have, your access, 2-inch plywood, access hole

Framing Techniques For Vaulted Ceilings

Vaulted ceiling framing must be able to resist the downward and outward thrust of the roof's weight load.

The trick in framing a vaulted ceiling is figuring out what to do with the ceiling joists. These horizontal framing members tie a building's outer walls together and resist the outward force exerted by the roof rafters in conventional framing. Without joists, the walls can bow outward and the roof ridge line may sag. Vaulted ceiling framing solutions must open up the space under the rafters while still providing adequate support for the roof's weight load.

Collar Ties

Collar ties are horizontal framing members that are essentially ceiling joists that have been moved upward to span the distance between the rafters higher than the top of the walls. They still tie the rafters together, but they no longer form the low, flat barrier that ceiling joists do. There is a limit to how high collar ties can be installed, however; ties that are moved more than one third the distance from the top of the wall will greatly increase the risk that the unsupported bottom portion of the rafters will flex and the walls will bow outward. Collar ties may be left exposed, allowing the ceiling to be open to the underside of the rafters.

Removing Joists

If the collar tie option leaves too many framing members in the ceiling vault for your taste, you can probably get away with removing some of the collar ties or ceiling joists to achieve a more open vault. In general, leaving every third joist or collar tie intact will provide adequate support for the roof load, and the ties in between can be removed. Doubling the remaining ties by installing one on each side of the rafter provides some extra strength and is more aesthetically balanced.

Post and Beam

To do away with collar ties or joists entirely, you'll have to provide some other structural support for the weight of the roof. An alternative framing method involves using a heavy ridge beam that rests on vertical posts at the ends of the building. These structural members need to be strong enough to support half of the roof's weight, thereby reducing the weight load resting on the top of the walls. The reduced load will be less likely to push the walls outward, and the interior ceiling vault can be free of horizontal supports.

Trusses

Engineered roof trusses may be designed to create a vaulted ceiling while still providing sufficient support for the roof's weight. In a common truss design, sloping top chords function just like rafters in conventional framing, and horizontal bottom chords fill the role of ceiling joists. A typical vaulted ceiling truss, called a scissor truss, has bottom chords that slope upward at a slightly shallower angle than its top chords. The sloping bottom chords form a vault that is not quite as high as the outer slope of the roof but is uncluttered by horizontal supports.

Tags: ceiling joists, roof weight, bottom chords, framing members, support roof, weight load, adequate support

Ways To Vent A Garage

Ways to Vent a Garage

Garages need proper ventilation to prevent stale smells, mold growth and the buildup of gasoline fumes. Finished garages with sheetrock or paneling on the walls lack ventilation to allow air flow for storing seasonal items or chemicals. Older, unfinished garages, where bare wood of the construction is visible all the way to the roof, have better air flow, but may still be insufficient when used as a work space. There are a number of choices and ways to vent a garage.

Add a Window Fan

Set a box-style window fan in a window with the fan pulling air outward. The fan will pull the stale garage air out through the window, as fresh air is pulled through the garage from an open door or gaps around the garage door.

Install a Small Second Window

Many garages, whether attached or separate from the house, have one window. By installing a second window on an opposite wall, a natural air current will pass through the garage.

Install Static Vents

Static vents are single units, where horizontal panels appear similar to those seen on shutters. The always-open panels allow air to pass while the slants prevent rain from entering. For best results to vent a garage, position the static vent high up on a wall opposite the existing window. A natural air current will pull air across and up through the garage.

Install Roof Turbine Vent

Roof turbine vents are a good option for an unfinished garage. Air is pulled up through the turbine using natural wind currents, without the need for electricity.

Install Bathroom Exhaust Fan

A small exhaust fan, similar to those used in bathrooms, is sufficient for keeping air fresh in a finished garage primarily used for storage. For garages used as a laundry room, it's best to install the bathroom exhaust fan near the washer and dryer, to pull moist air out of the garage. Bathroom exhaust fans must be wired into the electrical system and can be installed into a wall or ceiling.

Install Attic Fan

Recreate An Antique Ceiling Tile

While restoring historic buildings, often an antique ceiling tile is discovered missing or broken beyond repair. Due to age, locating an identical ceiling tile may be impossible. Recreate an antique ceiling tile by creating a mold from an unblemished tile with latex molding compound, also known as mask latex, and then manufacturing a paper mache tile. When painted and installed onto the ceiling, the faux ceiling tile is nearly, if not completely, undetectable from the other antique tiles.

Instructions

1. Locate a box or plastic container no more than 1/2 inch wider and longer than the ceiling tile. It may be necessary to use strips of cardboard, duct taped into a larger container to match the measurements. The box needs to be 1/4 to 1/2 inch wider and longer because latex shrinks as it dries. Latex shrinks because liquid used in the latex is absorbed in the air. Different brands of latex have different shrinkage rates, but 8 percent is the typical shrinkage rate.

2. Pour latex molding compound into the container to a 1 1/2 inch depth (or 2 inches deep if the tile is thicker than 1 inch). Latex molding compound is liquid and sold in buckets or containers. It is usually white and dries white.

3. Press the ceiling tile face down into the latex. Allow the latex to dry for four hours. Gently remove the ceiling tile by peeling it from the latex. Gently remove the mold from the container. Allow the latex to completely dry for about 48 hours.

4. Mix three parts shredded (torn) newspaper and one part clothes dryer lint in a bucket with enough liquid fabric starch to create a paste-like consistency. Liquid starch must be used undiluted to be effective. Liquid fabric starch is available at grocery, discount and dollar stores in the laundry aisle.

5. Scoop a handful of the mixture from the bucket. Squeeze out the excess starch. The mixture should be wet, but not dripping. Press the mixture into the latex mold. You will use about four cups of mixture. Press the mixture up around the edges. Overfill the edges to allow for paper shrinkage. Allow the paper mache to dry for at least 48 hours until completely dry and papery to the touch.

6. Peel the latex mold away from the paper "tile." Trim the edges of the paper tile with scissors to match the size of the antique tile.

7. Spray paint the paper tile with a clear coat to act as a sealant. Paint the paper tile to match the ceiling tile. Paint or spray paint a gloss finish on the paper tile if necessary. Enamel paints have a high gloss property and if used may not require the addition of a gloss coat. Allow the paint to dry.

8. Install the paper tile by hammering a finish nail through each corner and into the ceiling. Use paint to touch up over the nail heads if noticeable.

Tags: ceiling tile, paper tile, molding compound, tile with, Allow latex, antique ceiling

Making Color Choices For Tray Ceilings

Use paint samples to help choose your tray ceiling paint colors.

A tray ceiling may add visual interest to a room through its recessed design. These ceilings can be painted different paint colors to complement furnishings or add flair to the room. The colors you choose for your ceiling have a big impact on the feel of the room. Taking time to consider the choices helps ensure you are satisfied with the end result.

Instructions

1. Choose the general color theme of the room before choosing the paint color. The paint colors you choose should complement the furniture, the curtains and desired feel of the room. For example, if you want the room to have a light, open feel and the furniture is white, cream or another pale color, choose pale-colored paint for the recessed area or the trim of the tray ceiling.

2. Choose a darker paint for the top ceiling part of the tray and a lighter color for the trim ceiling for a dramatic effect and to make the tray ceiling stand out more. This also gives the illusion of greater ceiling height. Use neutral colors with little difference in shade between the two if you do not wish the ceiling to be such a focal point.

3. Purchase paint color samples or obtain color cards. You can order paint samples online or purchase them from some hardware and home improvement stores.

4. Place the color samples you choose against the ceiling to give you an idea of how the paint color will look in contrast to the walls or unpainted aspects of the tray ceiling. Place color samples against curtains and furniture as well to make sure the colors you are considering do not clash.

5. Paint small swaths of the paint colors you chose and let the areas completely dry. In this way, you can double-check that the colors you chose are the colors you want, before painting the entire ceiling.

Tags: tray ceiling, paint colors, color samples, paint color, choose your

Swirlfinish A Drywall Ceiling

A flat white surface is standard for a drywall ceiling, but that doesn’t mean it’s your only option. Another choice is to swirl the ceiling, using textured paint that’s infused with sand or other solids, so that it holds its shape. This is a good solution for ceilings that weren’t drywalled very well and have seams showing, as the textured paint can hide those. It’s a good idea to practice your swirling technique on some scrap boards before you apply it to the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Empty the room of all furniture. Cover the floor in tarps. Put painter’s tape on the walls where they meet the ceiling. Tape off any ceiling fixtures or obstructions that you can’t remove.

2. Cover the whole ceiling in primer, cutting in the edges first with a paintbrush and then rolling over the whole surface with a paint roller. Let the primer dry for 24 hours.

3. Open and stir your textured paint, pulling the sand or other solids up from the bottom of the container and mixing it well, so the solids are suspended.

4. Put a thick layer of textured paint onto one section of the ceiling, covering as much area as you can reach from one position, applying it with a paintbrush in the corners and a roller on the open spans.

5. Press your concrete trowel flat against the paint, and twist it slowly in a full circle, getting a near circular swirl pattern. Move the trowel to the area next to the first swirl and make a second one, slightly overlapping it.

6. Repeat for the entire ceiling, applying more paint as necessary and working across the whole surface in sections. Let the paint dry for 24 hours before reassembling the room.

Tags: textured paint, other solids, sand other, sand other solids, whole surface

Install Hunter Fan Light Kits

Hunter is a company that sells general home appliances, such as fans, lights and humidifiers. Hunter fans have special dimensions that require their component parts, such as the light kit, to be Hunter brand in order to fit properly. For most Hunter fans, the light kit comes with the fan and is an optional feature that can be used to provide central ceiling light to a room. The light kit has anywhere from one to five sockets for bulbs, shades covering each bulb, and a cradle or mounting hardware that attaches the kit to the fan. Installing a Hunter light kit is a straightforward process.

Instructions

Instructions

1. Turn off the electricity to the fan. Go to the breaker box and flip the switch that controls the circuit that the fan is on to "Off." Verify that the fan is off by turning it on and making sure it does not turn on.

2. Stand on a ladder and use a Phillips-head screwdriver to unscrew the three screws on the ceiling fan switch housing. The switch housing has a pull switch chain hanging from it. Be careful removing the housing--a connector from the housing is plugged into the fan itself. Gently pull the housing away from the fan when the screws are removed.

3. Disconnect the large, multi-colored plastic connector plug attaching the switch housing to the fan. Descend the ladder with the switch housing in hand.

4. Pull out the wires from the switch housing so that they dangle out of it to prepare for installing the light kit.

5. Remove the plug covering the central hole on the switch housing, if there is a plug there.

6. Thread the black and white cords from the bottom of the light kit through the central hole on the switch housing of the ceiling fan.

7. Screw the hollow threaded pipe of the light kit into the switch housing until the connection is snug. Take care while screwing the light kit in that the black and white wires do not get twisted.

8. Use a washer and nut from the light kit packaging and place them over the threaded pipe inside the switch housing. Hand screw the nut over the threaded pipe to secure the light kit to the switch housing.

9. Wire the light kit to the switch housing by wrapping the black wire from the light kit around the blue wire from the switch housing. Cover the wires with a wire nut from the light kit packaging. Now wrap the white wire from the light kit to the white wire from the switch housing and cover the wires with a wire nut. Gently push these wires down into the switch housing.

10. Stand on the ladder and reconnect the plastic control socket from the switch housing to the multi-colored control plug of the ceiling fan.

11. Insert the switch housing over the motor mounting neck and align the screw holes of the switch housing with the holes on the motor neck.

12. Replace the three screws you removed in Step 1.

13. Restore the electricity to the fan at the breaker box by flipping the switch that controls the circuit that the fan is on to "On."

Tags: switch housing, wire from, from light, from switch, from switch housing, threaded pipe, wire from light

Will A Dehumidifier Cool A Room

Dehumidifiers pull water from the air.

Keeping cool in the summertime is a number one priority. Dehumidifiers pull moisture from the air and help alleviate some of the discomfort caused by sticky, humid heat. Whether or not dehumidifiers have the power to cool rooms, using them in tandem with air conditioners and fans can make you feel more comfortable.

How a Dehumidifier Works

Dehumidifiers remove moisture and humidity from the air. A small, automatic fan on one side of the machine sucks moist air in and then blows the air over two coils filled with refrigerants -- one hot, one cold. The cool and warm air meet, condensing water from the air. Depending on the type of dehumidifier you have, the water either drips down out of the machine into a bucket or is forced up and out through a drainage hose. The dry air is then pushed out of the machine into the room.

Why the Room Feels Cooler

The appliances don't cool rooms; instead dehumidifiers add heat with the energy generated to dehumidify the space. But since dry air feels cooler than moist air, even if the dry air is slightly warmer, a dehumidified room feels cooler than a room filled with humid air. The comparison is similar to the difference between the Midwestern and western states in the U.S. The humid summer temperatures of Midwestern states are hot and sticky, although temperatures rarely reach three digits. In western states like Nevada and Arizona, for example, temperatures may soar well into the hundreds, but the effect is a "dry heat" that feels more comfortable to move around in than humid heat.

Other Appliances

Use your air conditioner, dehumidifier and ceiling fans together to achieve an optimal cooling effect. Use the dehumidifier first to transform the moist air in the room to dry air. Don't turn on the air conditioner until the dehumidifier is finished; running them at the same time will make the air conditioner work harder because the dehumidifier is an appliance that generates heat. Once you do turn on the air conditioner, it won't need to run on its highest setting since dry air is easier to cool than moist air. Use your ceiling fan to evenly distribute the cooler air.

Cooling Tips

If you're still feeling hot with the dehumidifier, air conditioner and fans running, there are additional things you can do. Spray yourself with water so that air from the air conditioner instantly cools your skin. Also keep the shades drawn and the blinds closed during the day to keep the sun out.

Tags: cool rooms, cooler than, Dehumidifiers pull, feels cooler than, filled with, humid heat, machine into

Remove A Popcorn Ceiling With A Paint Stripper

You will likely need paint stripper in the process of removing popcorn ceiling texture.

A good paint stripper (a solvent mixture made to remove paint and assorted finishes from a given surface) can play a pivotal role in removing popcorn ceiling texture--as any paint that has been applied to the texture must be removed before the popcorn texture can come off. You'll also need the right tools, a few safety precautions, and a little know-how.

Instructions

1. Prepare the room. This means removing the furniture, laying a plastic sheet on the floor, covering all vents and outlets with plastic sheets (use painters tape to secure the plastic) and applying tape to the wall where it meets the ceiling, all the way around the room.

2. Put on your dust mask and safety goggles. Both your mask and your goggles will protect you from the dust and particles that you are about to scrape off the ceiling. Also, put on your gloves, as paint stripper may burn your hand if exposed to your skin.

3. Pour some paint stripper into a metal container.

4. Set up your ladder, then dip your brush into the paint stripper and apply the stripper to the ceiling texture.

5. Allow the paint stripper to perform its corrosive work. The label on the paint stripper container should tell you exactly how long you need to wait--typically between 15 and 45 minutes.

6. Use a rag or steel wool to rub the now-corroded paint off the ceiling.

7. Wet the surface of the popcorn texture with water. Use the scraper to scrape the texture off the ceiling.

Tags: paint stripper, ceiling texture, popcorn ceiling, popcorn texture, removing popcorn, removing popcorn ceiling

Replace Ceiling Tiles

Over time, home ceiling tiles become damaged. It can be due to nothing more than age, such as a natural yellowing of the tile’s color, or it can be due to other circumstances. Water stains are a common reason for tile replacement as are accidents, paint splashes. Whatever, the reason, it is important to know change damaged tiles.

Instructions

1. Count the number of tiles that need replacement and measure each to determine the replacement size needed.

2. Make note of any damaged tiles that fall around a built-in sprinkler system. These will likely require splicing so you will want to allot extra tiles in the event the first attempt doesn’t work.

3. Purchase the number of replacement tiles decided upon.

4. Place a tarp or paper underneath the tiles to be removed. This will help prevent creating a mess if the tiles don’t come out easily or if dirt or other debris is caught inside the tile.

5. Remove the damaged tiles. Generally, this is an easy procedure. Push the damaged tile up and over to one end slightly. Tilt the tile carefully and remove it.

6. Clean the rim that holds the tile into place, removing all dirt and debris.

7. Replace normal damaged tiles with new ones of the same size. To replace the tile, tilt it into the hole at one end and side. Maneuver it into place and then let it fall into the grooves.

8. Prepare spliced tiles for replacement by using the old tile as a pattern. Cut a hole, wedge, square or other shape out of the new tile that mimics the damaged tile.

9. Cut the replacement tile into two pieces down the center, width wise. The two pieces will splice together around the sprinkler head.

10. Place the proper type of glue for the ceiling tile material on the end of the tiles to be spliced together.

11. Using the procedure outlined in Step 7 above, place the two pieces into place. Push them tightly together so that the splice doesn’t stand out too noticeably. Wipe away any excess glue that seeps through the material.

12. Let the spliced tiles dry, checking on them regularly to make sure they do not attempt to “part.”

13. Place ceiling tile splicing tape along the line if necessary to further keep the tile from pulling apart.

Tags: damaged tiles, into place, ceiling tile, damaged tile, spliced tiles

Pectoral Muscles

The pectoral muscles are the muscles of the chest. They are a large muscle group extending from the arm pits across the chest to the sternum and up to the collar bone. Pectoral muscles are much more prominent in men. Big pectoral muscles are seen as a sign of strength. Body builders consider them one of the most important muscle groups to develop for a good physique.

Features

There are pectoral muscles on both sides of the chest. Each side contains two muscles. The pectoralis major is the primary muscle of the chest and makes up most of its bulk. It lies on top of the pectoralis minor. It is a much thinner muscle that is connected to your shoulder blade at the top and stretches down to your ribs. Each muscle performs different functions.

Function

The pectoralis major muscles are used to push your arms forward, lower them downward and turn them inward. They give your arms the power to move forcefully through most of their range of motion. The pectoralis minor muscles are used to bring your shoulder blades down. This is necessary for you to push down on something with your arms.

Significance

Large and well defined pectoral muscles are viewed as a symbol of virility in men. Greek gods were shirtless and showed off their bulging pectoral muscles. Great works of art like Michelangelo's David statue and painting on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel feature idealized figures with prominent pectoral muscles. Men attempting to improve their physique always focus on their pectoral muscles as a primary focus of their work outs.

Types

There are many types of exercises that can build and develop pectoral muscles. Pushing motions with resistance help develop size in the pectoralis major muscles. Examples of these exercises include push ups and the chest press. "Fly" motions with resistance help develop definition in the pectoralis major muscles. A fly motion is moving arms from straight out to the sides to straight out above the chest. These can be done lying down on a flat bench with a light dumbbell in each hand. The pectoralis minor muscles can be exercised with dips. The body weight is held up by straight arms. The elbows are bent lowering the body then pushed up again.

Considerations

When developing pectoral muscles with exercise, make sure you also work on your back muscles. Pectoral muscles help you push and back muscles help you pull. If you only work one side of your body you will become unbalanced. This will lead to injury and a disproportional appearance. You need both muscle groups to be even. Allow your pectoral muscles to heal completely before doing more resistance exercises with them. If you are sore, your body is telling you to wait. Rest is an important element in pectoral muscle development.

Tags: pectoral muscles, pectoralis major, major muscles, pectoralis major muscles, pectoralis minor, your arms, back muscles

Replace A Hampton Bay Fan Switch

Hampton Bay ceiling fans can be a great asset in your home. They circulate air around a room, enabling you to reduce the cost of heating and cooling your home while making it more comfortable. It can, therefore, be a nuisance when they stop working. If the problem is the fan switch, it can be fixed without too much trouble.

Instructions

1. Open the fan's switch housing by removing the screws, which you'll find either on the bottom cap or the side. Remove the pull chain by unscrewing the decorative nut underneath the switch housing.

2. Write down where each wire attaches to the pull chain.

3. Remove the wires from the pull chain after you've marked them. Most fan switch wires are inserted directly into the chain, so you can and should remove them without cutting them; just pry them out with a small flat head screwdriver inserted into the slot next to the wire. If they're attached using wire nuts, remove the nuts.

4. Determine the correct replacement pull chain. The best way to do this is to contact Home Depot or Hampton Bay, who can probably send you the right switch or at least give you a part number you can use to select a suitable generic brand at your local hardware store. If one of them can't help you, you need to consider two things in determining the correct switch: how many speeds the fan has and how many wires are used to connect the pull chain. Some possible configurations are listed in the "Tips" section below.

5. Reconnect the new pull chain wires the same way the old pull chain connected, consulting the notes you took when removing the old chain. If there were no wire nuts, you may need to solder the connection to make sure it stays.

6. Remount the fan switch housing by replacing the screws.

Tags: pull chain, switch housing, wire nuts, your home

Tell The Max Watt Of A Light Fixture

When the light bulb in a light fixture burns out, most people simply replace it with whatever sized light bulb they have laying around the house. This is a dangerous habit that can increase the chance of having a house fire. Every light fixture is constructed to handle a certain maximum wattage. From the insulation on the wire to the insulation in the fixture and the materials that make up the socket, installing a light bulb that exceeds the maximum wattage can cause excessive heating that can ultimately damage the fixture.

Instructions

1. Look on the socket of a lamp. You should see a silver sticker that indicates the maximum wattage of light bulb the lamp can support.

2. Look inside the can of a recessed light fixture to find the label that indicates maximum bulb wattage.

3. Remove the cover from a ceiling light and the maximum wattage sticker should be located near the sockets and sometimes on the sockets.

4. Look for the installation instructions that are pre-packaged with new light fixtures. The maximum wattage for the fixture is also usually included in the documentation. In most cases, the wattage is even marked on the exterior of the box so the purchaser will know exactly the type of bulb they need for the fixture.

Tags: maximum wattage, light bulb, light fixture, bulb they, indicates maximum, that indicates, that indicates maximum

Build Energy Efficient Cathedral Ceilings

Cathedral ceilings can add charm and beauty to a house, but they may not be energy efficient. However, there are ways to build an energy efficient cathedral ceiling so that you can enjoy the aesthetic of the structure without increasing your utility bills.

Instructions

1. Use deep ceiling joists to allow for thicker insulation. If you're going to be using 10-in. insulation, build the cathedral ceiling with 12- to 16-inch ceiling joists.

2. Place a radiant barrier in the cathedral ceiling. An aluminum foil radiant barrier, installed with the foil side facing the sun, blocks heat transfer and make your cathedral ceiling more energy efficient.

3. Install a ceiling fan with a reverse switch in your cathedral ceiling. This helps distribute warm air in the winter and draw cooler air up in the summer, keeping room temperatures balanced.

4. Avoid recessed lighting in a cathedral ceiling, as heat can escape from around such fixtures. It is recommended to use track lighting when you have a cathedral ceiling. If recessed lighting must be used, make sure they are airtight and IC (Insulation Contact) rated to make your cathedral ceiling more energy efficient.

5. Caulk around any electrical boxes or heating of air conditioning vents in the cathedral ceiling, or use foam gaskets. Caulk holes in ceiling joists where wires are run through.

Tags: cathedral ceiling, energy efficient, ceiling joists, your cathedral, your cathedral ceiling, cathedral ceiling more

Build Decorative Ceiling Beams

One way to make a room appear completely different is to add a decorative ceiling beam. You can use such a beam to add visual appeal to the room, or to hide wiring for ceiling-mounted fixtures. If you want to give a room in your home a face-lift, adding a decorative oak ceiling beam may be just the kind of project to accomplish the desired effect.

Instructions

1. Decide which direction you want the beam to run, and then measure across the ceiling to find the middle. Measure 2 7/8 inches from the center, and make a mark. Go to the opposite end of the ceiling, and repeat the process. Use the chalk line to make a straight line from one mark to the other, across the length of the ceiling where the beam will be added. This line marks where the outside edge of your mounting board will be placed. Measure the distance from one end of the wall to the other, for cutting your material.

2. Install the 2-by-6-inch material flat against the ceiling. Attach it with 12d nails. It is important that you nail the mounting board securely, so take the time to locate the ceiling joists. If a single length of wood is too short, cut pieces square, and butt the ends together for the remaining distance. This material will not be visible after the beam is built but it should follow the chalk line you made.

3. If the oak 1-by-6-inch material is not long enough to fit in a single piece, cut a 45-degree angle across the face of one end. Start at either wall, and place the oak so that the face of the cut points outward and one edge is butted against the ceiling. Butt the square end against the wall, and use 4d finish nails to attach it to the mounting board every 16 inches. For the next piece, cut it so that the outside edge of the angle fits on top of the piece you have already mounted. This forms a better-looking joint than simply butting square-cut ends together. Repeat this process along the length of the beam, with the final piece cut square and butting against the wall just as you began with the first piece. Repeat this process along the other side of the mounting board, forming the two sidewalls of the beam.

4. Install the faceplate for the beam. The oak for the face will fit inside the two walls you have already installed, and should be mounted so that it is flush with the bottom edges of both sides. Remember to make your joints using 45-degree angles. Use 4d nails to attach the sides to the face. Be careful that your joints are placed so that there is a continuous smooth face. Use the nail set to sink all nailheads below the surface of the wood slightly.

5. Mix sawdust with clear wood glue to form a putty-like paste. Dab this mixture into each nail hole or any other minor blemishes that may be visible. This is an old trick used by trim carpenters in fine carpentry. You could use wood putty for this process, but you will match wood color more accurately using actual sawdust from the same lumber.

6. Sand the beam on all three sides. Use the 150-grit sandpaper first, and sand the joints to remove any jutting edges. With that done, use the 220-grit sandpaper to achieve a smooth surface along the length of the beam on all sides.

7. Sand the trim material before installing it. Install the 1-by-2 trim along the top corner where the beam meets the ceiling, using 4d finish nails. Do not allow joints in the trim to match up to joints in the beam. Instead, cut 16 inches off the piece to achieve an offset between the two. At each wall, cut two pieces of trim to run between the top piece of trim and the bottom edge of the beam. Cut two more pieces of trim to lay flat across of the bottom of the beam on each end, including covering the ends of the trim you just mounted. The finished trim should cover all spaces where the beam touches the walls.

8. Set the nails and fill them as before. Sand the joints to make them smooth. After the glue has dried, hand-sand over the nail holes with 220-grit sandpaper to remove any bumps or bulges.

Tags: mounting board, this process, where beam, 220-grit sandpaper, against ceiling, against wall, along length

The Best Standing Fans For The Home

Fans aid in air circulation and help to keep you cool.

Standing fans can keep the rooms in your home cool and help you to save on your cooling bill. Not all standing fans are alike, however, with some rating higher than others when it comes to performance, design and cooling ability. Knowing which fans perform well ahead of time can help you make the right selection when it comes time to buy.

Lasko 1825 18-Inch Adjustable Cyclone

According to reviews posted by Consumer Search, an online consumer products testing and information website, the Lasko 1825 18-Inch Adjustable Cyclone was named best pedestal fan of all fans reviewed. According to the website, reviewers liked the adjustable height option as well as its cooling capacity. Reviewers were also pleased with the fan's 3-speed selection and its lightweight design, which is a benefit when it comes to portability.

Honeywell HY-048BP Fresh Breeze Tower Fan

Consumer Search reviewers were also pleased with the performance of the Honeywell HY-048BP Fresh Breeze Tower Fan, naming it the best reviewed tower fan. Consumers liked the sleek, compact design of the fan, which did not hinder its ability to provide maximum cooling ability. Reviewers also liked the automatic timer function, LCD display and the 3-speed setting, which enables the user to control the amount of cooling desired.

Essential Home 16-Inch Oscillating Stand Fan

View Points, another online product testing and information site for consumers, selected the Essential Home 16-Inch Oscillating Stand Fan as one its top picks. Earning 4.5 out of 5 stars, the fan earned praise for its quiet operation, cooling ability and strong, sturdy design. Reviewers also liked the timing option, multiple speed selections and the fact that the product comes with a programmable remote control.

Honeywell HFS-641P

The Honeywell HFS-641P Platinum Air 16-Inch Premium Stand Fan also earned high marks from reviewers at View Points, earning 4.42 out of 5 stars. According to the reviews, consumers liked the 3-speed setting and the ease of operation in addition to the fan's quiet motor. Reviewers also commented on the fan's excellent cooling ability, its remote control option and the automatic timing option, which is a benefit for those concerned with safety.

Tags: cooling ability, Reviewers also, when comes, 16-Inch Oscillating, 16-Inch Oscillating Stand, 1825 18-Inch, 1825 18-Inch Adjustable

The Best Way To Take Off Wallpaper On Ceilings

Taking down wallpaper from the ceiling is a quick way to spruce up a room. Removing wallpaper can be a dreaded task, especially from the ceiling. Most people have heard horror stories about wallpaper removal. Using a steamer to remove ceiling wallpaper is the best method for getting down the wallpaper quickly and without a big mess. Liquid wallpaper strippers are impractical to use on a ceiling because the water will drip everywhere. Use the proper tools and techniques, and that ceiling wallpaper will be down in no time.

Instructions

1. Buy or rent a steamer for removing wallpaper from the ceiling. This is the easiest and least messy way to get the wallpaper down. If you do not own a steamer and do not wish to purchase one, they can be rented from most rental supply stores. Wallpaper steamers are sold and rented for use in removing wallpaper, but any type of steamer will work.

2. Lay down a drop cloth on the floor below. This will protect the floor during removal and make cleanup quick.

3. Score the wallpaper. A wallpaper scoring tool can be purchased at most home improvement stores. Use the wallpaper scorer in a circular motion to create tiny but visible holes throughout the wallpapered surface. This will allow the heat and moisture from the steamer to penetrate the wallpaper. The more holes you make, the easier the wallpaper will come down.

4. Fill up the water reservoir in the steamer and plug it into the electrical outlet. Allow the steamer to heat up. Refer to the steamer's manual for specific operating instructions and to find out how long it takes for the steamer to heat.

5. Begin working at one side of the ceiling, working your way across to the other side. Work in small sections.

6. Hold the steamer plate or nozzle over a section of wallpaper. Allow it to remain on the wallpaper for about 15 seconds.

7. Remove the steamer from the ceiling. Use a putty knife to gently scrape off the wet wallpaper from that section. Use your hands to pull off sections of the wallpaper as you are loosening them with the putty knife. Make sure to get the backing and glue off of the wall as well. Apply more steam, if necessary, and scrape again until all of the wallpaper, backing and glue has been removed from that section.

8. Repeat this process along the entire ceiling, working in rows from one side of the wall to the other.

Tags: from ceiling, wallpaper from, backing glue, ceiling wallpaper, ceiling working, down wallpaper

Install A Kitchen Drop Ceiling Light Panel

A light panel is a good way to add a lot of light in a room with a drop ceiling.

A drop ceiling consists of a metal frame suspended from the original ceiling with metal wires. Resting on the metal frameworks are several foam acoustic tiles. To add light into a room with a drop ceiling, you can replace one or more of the acoustic tiles with a light panel. The light panel measures the same dimensions as the acoustic panel, usually 2 by 4 feet in length. If you installed the drop ceiling, you will find this process relatively simple. If you did not install the drop ceiling, it will not take you long to acclimate to the process.

Instructions

1. Shut your electrical breaker off so you can install the electrical connections.

2. Place a ladder under the panel adjacent to the panel you plan to replace with the suspended light panel. Push up on the panel and then slide the panel away from the panel you plan to replace. This gives you access to the space between the existing ceiling and the drop ceiling.

3. Move the ladder to a position directly under the panel you plan to replace with the suspended light panel. Push up on the acoustic panel installed on the drop ceiling framework and then tilt it so you can lower it down and out of the framework. Place the acoustic panel off to the side.

4. Hold the suspended light panel from end-to-end and then place it up between the original ceiling and the drop ceiling. Carefully lower the light panel onto the framework. The framework will hold the panel in place.

5. Slide the ladder under the open hole you created in step one. Thread eyelet bolts into the original ceiling directly above every corner of the light panel and directly above the center of the light panel.

6. Cut five pieces to a length that measures twice the distance between the original ceiling and the top of the light panel.

7. Thread the wires through the eyelet holes and through the mounting holes on the light panel and then tie the ends of the wires around the wires strung stout between the eyelet bolts and mounting holes. This secures the light to the original ceiling and takes the weight off the framework.

8. Attach the green wire extending from the light panel to the green wire or bare wire extending from the ceiling. Attach the black wires together and then attach the white wires together. Use wire nuts to secure the wire connections.

Tags: light panel, drop ceiling, original ceiling, acoustic panel, ceiling drop

Build Ceiling Speaker Boxes

Building speaker boxes allows you to easily hang speakers.

Hanging speakers from the ceiling is a great way to build a custom surround sound system, yet save floor space for more important items, like stadium seating or a dance floor. While modern speakers often come with convenient wall or ceiling installation hookups, vintage speakers, though still capable of producing perfect sound quality do not offer convenient ceiling attachment. Building a wooden speaker box to hang the speakers from the ceiling offers the best possible sound potential while showcasing the appeal of the speakers themselves. The positioning of the speakers allows the installer to make them as prominent or as hidden as possible.