A ceiling fan with a light is a doubly handy item.
Ceiling fans are almost a necessity in controlling heating and cooling in a room. The convenience of operating the fans from the light switch is an added bonus. However, switches used to control the power to a ceiling fan's light must be replaced from time to time. A wise homeowner will learn this process to save the expense of hiring an electrician.
Instructions
1. Turn off the light switch that operates the ceiling fan. If there's more than one light switch for the same ceiling fan, and the ceiling fan is off, pull the chain that operates the fan to see if it turns on. If it does, turn it off at one of the light switches. Provide an alternate source of light while completing this project.
2. Remove the globe covering the light by loosening the screws that hold it in place, then remove the bulb(s). Locate the screws that hold the light kit to the ceiling fan and remove them with a screwdriver.
3. Disconnect the wires that connect the light kit to the ceiling fan by removing the wire nuts and gently pulling the wires apart. Locate the pull chain light switch in the light kit and disconnect the wires.
4. Remove the nut that holds the light switch to the light kit. It's located on the front of the light switch where the pull chain comes through.
5. Secure the new pull chain light switch to the light kit with the nut provided, being sure to thread the pull chain through the nut first. Connect the wires that connected the light switch to the light kit.
6. Connect the light kit wires to the ceiling fan by inserting them into the wire nuts and turning the wire nuts clockwise to secure the connection. Secure the light kit to the ceiling fan with the screws from Step 2.
Chapter 7 bankruptcy is one of the two main chapters of consumer bankruptcy; the other is Chapter 13. In order to file Chapter 7 bankruptcy, you must qualify according to a process known as the means test. If your income is too high to file Chapter 7, you may have to file Chapter 13 instead. Various financial limits apply to both Chapter 7 and Chapter 13 bankruptcy.
Unsecured Debt Limit
Unsecured debt refers to money you owe that is not secured by any specific collateral. Debt such as credit card debt or general personal loans fall into this category. Under Chapter 7, you can have any amount of unsecured debt and still file. If you are forced into a Chapter 13 bankruptcy, your unsecured debt limit would be $336,900 according to NOLO.
Secured Debt Limit
Secured debt is debt collateralized by specific property, such as a car, electronics, home furnishings or a house. As with unsecured debt, there are no secured debt limits in a Chapter 7 bankruptcy. According to NOLO, if you must file a Chapter 13 bankruptcy, your secured debt limit will be $1,010,650.
Annual Limit
In order to qualify to file Chapter 7 bankruptcy, your income must be below your state's median income for a family of your size. If your income is over the median, your case may be dismissed or you may be forced into filing a Chapter 13 petition instead.
Disposable Income Limit
In addition to the median income test, your Chapter 7 petition may be dismissed if you show a large amount of monthly disposable income. If you can still afford to make payments to your creditors in a Chapter 13 bankruptcy plan, the court may find your Chapter 7 abusive and may dismiss it.
Asset Limit
While there are no debt limits to a Chapter 7 bankruptcy, you may have to surrender any valuable assets you have. Each state provides debtors with a list of exemptions that they can use to protect property. Anything worth more than the exemption level must be surrendered to the court for liquidation. Any money raised from non-exempt assets will go to pay your creditors.
Wallpaper can be used to mimic the look of a tin ceiling
Textured ceilings can enhance the look of any room in your home. One type of ceiling that you can install is a faux tin ceiling. It's not difficult to use wallpaper to create the look of an authentic tin ceiling. First, determine what type of design or pattern you want to use.
Instructions
1. Open the door to the circuit panel and turn off the breaker for the room where the faux tin ceiling will be installed.
2. Climb up on the ladder and remove any air vents and light fixtures from the ceiling. Remove the screws that secure the vents and fixtures with a screwdriver.
3. Measure the length of each wall in the room with the tape measure and divide by two. Mark the center of each wall with a pencil.
4. Place the end of the chalk line on a mark on the wall. Run the chalk line to the mark on the opposite wall. Pull the chalk line tight and snap a line. Repeat this step for the two marks on the remaining walls. Where the two line cross is the center of the room.
5. Roll out the faux tin wallpaper to use for the ceiling. Measure and cut the wallpaper into 12-by-12 inch squares or 24-by-24 inch squares with the scissors.
6. Apply wallpaper glue to the back of the first sheet of tin ceiling wallpaper with a paintbrush. Place the wallpaper into a corner where the chalk lines intersect. Repeat this step for the remaining corners of the chalk line.
7. Place additional pieces of wallpaper on the ceiling, working your way outwards towards each wall.
Tags: chalk line, each wall, chalk line mark, inch squares, line mark, Repeat this, Repeat this step
Installing a ceiling fan is an easy do-it-yourself project.
Installing a ceiling fan is a fairly easy home improvement project that offers an excellent opportunity to improve your electrical wiring and construction skills. Ceiling fans can dramatically change the decor of a room, and can help keep down heating and cooling costs.
Instructions
1. Turn off the electricity to the circuit you are working with.
2. Locate the wall receptacle at the end of the circuit run by finding the outlet that has only one set of wires attached to its terminals. You will use the empty terminals on this outlet to add the fan wiring.
3. Cut the holes for the fan, switch and wiring. At the fan's location, cut a circular hole large enough to slip the brace bar through and to attach it to the joists. Use the switch box as a template for the wall switch. Above the switch and the receptacle where the wall and ceiling meet cut a 1 by 2-inch hole to run the cables through. Save the drywall pieces to replace them later.
4. Attach the fixture junction box to the brace bar according to the manufacturer's instructions. Slip the brace bar through the hole and attach it to the ceiling joists with the wood screws. Because the bar expands, the hole need not be centered between joists.
5. Install the switch box. This box can be attached directly to the drywall using screws.
6. Remove the power supply receptacle from its box by loosening the screws holding it to the box and pulling it out.
7. Run the cable to the fan from the switch and the receptacle. Thread the fish tape through the small holes near the ceiling and across the ceiling to the junction box. Attach the NM cable to the fish tape and pull it back toward you. Drop it down behind the wall to the switch and receptacle.
8. Make the connections at the switch and receptacle using a screwdriver. At each location attach the white wire to the silver screw terminal and the black wire to the brass screw terminal. At the switch attach the green or bare wire to the green ground terminal. At the switch wrap a piece of electrical tape around the white wire to indicate that it is carrying current.
9. Make the connections at the fan. Using plastic twist-type electrical connectors, attach the white wire from the switch to the black wire on the fan. Wrap electrical tape around the white wire as you did before. Connect the black wires from the switch and outlet together using a plastic connector. Attach the receptacle's white wire to the fan's white wire. Attach the green wires to the ground terminal on the junction box using a screwdriver.
10. Attach the fan to the junction box according to the manufacturer's instructions. Patch the access holes with the drywall repair kit. Restore power to the circuit.
Tags: , switch receptacle, from switch, , according manufacturer instructions
Tulle is used to make tutus. It is an excellent fabric for decorating a ceiling.
Tulle fabric is a fine net fabric, sometimes starched, that is used to make gowns, wedding veils, tutus and is great for decorating wedding and reception venues. The name 'tulle' comes from Tulle, France. The fabric is stiff and has a hexagonal mesh net and is often incorporated into formal wear. Tulle is also call "illusion" and is made from silk, nylon or rayon. It comes in 50-yard bolts of material.
Achieving a Look
If you want to create a canopied effect for your wedding or reception tulle, including in a tent, look no further than this fabric. Tulle, which is flexible and not slippery, comes in a variety of colors as well as in glittery and glimmer styles, and is relatively easy with which to work. Since it is see-through, attaching white twinkling lights to the ceiling before draping the tulle from the ceiling gives a nice effect. Another option involves adding the lights, including icicle lights, after you have attached the tulle to the ceiling.
Draping
Measure the height and width of the ceiling and figure out how tulle you will need to create a draped effect. Find the center of the room. This is the point from which the tulle fabric will radiate. Pleat a section of tulle, folding it in an accordion style. Tie the top of the fabric with a ribbon of your choice. This assures that the pleats stay intact. Attach the end (top) of the tulle to the center of the ceiling using a staple gun. Allow the fabric to drape and then attach the end of it, again using the staple gun, to a side wall or to the ceiling. If possible, use lengths of tulle that are long enough that you can drape the tulle all the way over to the and down the sides. This covers the side walls in addition to the ceiling. Draping the tulle is what makes it look so pretty and creates the canopied effect. Keep attaching length of tulle, emanating from the center point, until you have covered the ceiling.
Adding Decorations to the Tulle
Another way to use and accent tulle on the ceiling is to add floral vines to the drape. You can also attach wide ribbon to the tulle, so that it is visible. This incorporates some color, texture and design into the ceiling fabric. Add a length of ribbon all the way down the side or middle of the tulle. You can attach satiny ribbons and artificial flowers to the tulle using a glue gun. Attach the items before the tulle is adhered to the ceiling.
The Outcome
Draping unattractive ceilings and walls with tulle can transform a dull room into a beautiful, romantic space. A nondescript room can be turned into an elegant venue using tulle.
Tags: canopied effect, ceiling Draping, side walls, tulle ceiling, tulle that
Although many curtains are designed to cover the length and width of a window, sometimes curtains extend all the way from a ceiling to a floor. Partitioning off a room is an example of when this length of curtain is desired. It also can add a dramatic effect. After measuring your curtains, you hang them much like you would any curtain. The only difference is you attach the brackets that hold the curtain to a ceiling, as opposed to a wall.
Instructions
1. Measure the distance from the ceiling to the floor. Check to make sure the curtains are long enough to reach the required distance. Make any alternations that are necessary to the curtains. Add a panel to the bottom of the curtains if they are not already long enough to touch the floor.
2. Climb up a step stool (or small ladder) and draw marks on the ceiling with a pencil to show where you will place the curtain brackets.
3. Drill the curtain bracket supports into the ceiling where you made the pencil marks.
4. Attach the two curtain brackets to their supports.
5. Slide a curtain rod through the two curtain brackets. Special brackets are available with completed rings, so rods won't slip out. Attach clip rings onto the curtain rods. Attach the curtain to the clip rings.
6. Decide which side of the curtain you want to be visible. If you want both sides to be seen, place two curtains together. Place the sides of the curtains you want to be seen facing outwards.
7. Hang your curtains from the clip rings. The distance between the rings will depend on the weight of your curtains. Place the rings closer together for heavier curtains.
8. Spread your curtains along the rod until they are smooth and centered.
Tags: your curtains, clip rings, curtain brackets, Attach curtain, ceiling floor, from ceiling, Hang Curtains
A fluorescent light fixture is a relatively inexpensive solution for almost any room.
Fluorescent lights can add much-needed illumination to a dark area in your home without dramatically increasing your electricity bill. As with all ceiling-mounted lights, you must mount the fluorescent light fixture correctly. Fluorescent light fixtures come with a variety of mounting options depending on the model. In most cases the kit comes with mounting screws, which must be mounted to the ceiling studs. In situations where the studs are not accessible, you must use toggle bolts to secure the fixture to the drywall.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the home at the main circuit breaker.
2. Place the ladder under the area where you plan to mount the fluorescent light fixture. In most cases, you will be replacing an old light fixture and you need to place the ladder so that you can reach the old fixture.
3. Remove the old light fixture. In general, light fixtures have outer covers that you can remove with a thumbscrew or screwdriver. Unscrew the wire nuts that connect the light fixture to the power source. Unscrew the mounting plate and other components if you have them. Set the old light fixture aside.
4. Use the stud finder to locate the ceiling studs, or joists, located nearest to the area you want to mount the fluorescent light. Mark the stud positions with a pencil. Studs run across the room from end to end, spaced evenly across the room with each stud running parallel to the others. Use a tape measure to write down the distance between each stud.
5. Remove the lens cover from the fluorescent light fixture. Remove the knockout in the center. This is where the power cables enter the fixture and connect to the light.
6. Measure the distance between the pre-drilled mounting holes on the light fixture. If they coincide with the distance between the ceiling joists, you may orient the fixture perpendicular to the joists. If not, you must mount the fixture along a single joist or use toggle bolts.
7. Hold the light fixture's canopy up to the ceiling. Pull the power cables from the ceiling through the knockout.
8. Drive wood screws through the mounting holes into the ceiling joists. If toggle bolts are required, drill small holes in the ceiling that correspond to the mounting holes. Push the toggle bolts through the canopy and into the holes you drilled. Tighten the toggle bolts with the power screwdriver.
9. Connect the wires in the light fixture to the power cables. Match the black wires from the light fixture to the black wire from the ceiling. Insert both wires into a wire nut and twist the nut clockwise to splice the wires together. Repeat this process with the white wires. Attach the green or bare copper wire from the ceiling to the ground screw in the light fixture.
10. Insert the fluorescent bulbs as per the manufacturer's instructions. Replace the lens cover. Turn on power to the home and turn the light on.
If the chandelier is large, have a strong partner assist you with the removal.
A chandelier is a large, sometimes elaborate light fixture commonly found in the entryway and dining room of many homes. Whether large or small, a chandelier is hung in the same manner as any other light fixture in the home. The chandelier is both mounted to and receives its power from a junction box in the ceiling. Installing a new chandelier or other starts with removal of the existing chandelier, which, depending on the size of the chandelier, is often a two-person job.
Instructions
1. Disconnect the power to the chandelier in your breaker panel.
2. Remove the screw from the bottom of the chandelier escutcheon, which is the piece of the chandelier connected to the ceiling. The screw may be visible, or it may be be disguised by a decorative ball. Twist the ball to remove the screw securing the escutcheon to the ceiling.
3. Lower the escutcheon; then, while holding the chandelier, remove the mounting screws securing it to the junction box. If the chandelier is large, have a strong partner hold the chandelier so that it does not fall.
4. Use a circuit tester to ensure that the power is in fact disconnected. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the proper use of the circuit tester.
5. Twist the wire nuts connecting each wire counterclockwise until the nut is released from the wires. Separate the wires if they are still twisted.
6. Unscrew the grounding wire if it is physically screwed to the junction box. The grounding wire is either shielded with green material, or is a bare copper wire.
7. Lower the chandelier and set aside.
8. Tuck the ceiling wires back into the junction box; then place a junction box cap onto the junction box if you are not installing a new light fixture. If you are installing a new light fixture, the new fixture can now be installed.
If you're looking for a set-in-stone rule regarding curtain length, it may ease your mind to know there is not one solitary rule that you're either following or breaking. Rather, proper curtain length varies and depends upon the height of your ceilings, the degree of formality in the room, the fabric your curtains are made of, and the type of window you're covering.
Hang Curtains as High as Possible
A general rule decorators employ is to hang curtains as close to the ceiling as possible, since curtains that are hung close to the ceiling help ceilings look higher and windows look larger. If you have very low ceilings in your room, consider hanging the curtains from the ceiling to give the illusion of more height. On the other hand, if your ceilings are quite high, 10 or 12 feet, for example, you can lower the curtains a bit. No matter how high you hang your curtains, make sure the bottom hems hit just above the floor or longer.
Just Above the Floor
At their shortest, curtains should hit just above the floor, perhaps ¼ inch or ½ inch above the floor. Anything more is considered too short. This length is appropriate for casual curtains or those that are slightly more formal but neatly tailored. This length has a clean, uncluttered look. This length is a practical option for curtains that are opened and closed regularly.
"Breaking" at the Floor
Some decorators and homeowners prefer that curtains "break" at the floor. This means that the curtains are slightly longer than floor length, and they gently crease or "break" at the point where the length reaches beyond the floor. How much of a break is a matter of taste; generally curtains that break fall 1 to 2 inches beyond the floor. This intermediate length is appropriate for a number of styles, from casual to formal.
Puddling
Puddled drapes fall somewhere around 6 to 12 inches beyond the floor, with the excess puddling in a small mound on the floor. This look is lush, luxurious and romantic, and works well in formal settings. This length works well for curtains that remain stationery most of the time. It is inconvenient if you open and close your curtains regularly, since the curtains drag the floor and must be rearranged every time they are opened and closed.
Casual Curtains
If the curtains in question are for a casual room such as a kitchen, breakfast room, bathroom or child's bedroom, they need not go all the way to the floor. Curtains in these rooms often fall just below the window or just to the window sill.
Tags: curtains that, This length, , , your curtains, above floor
Water collects under second story decks, and needs to flow away.
The space underneath a second story deck is usually at least ceiling height, making it comfortable for people to work underneath -- such as when you're doing grading work against a foundation after installing an overhead deck or building a new home and deck together. Optimally, grade work should be completed before a deck is constructed, but excavation for posts and other construction activity can disturb the ground and potentially disrupt your drainage or rainwater channeling pattern. Water can pool around posts and the house foundation as a result. Properly channeling water under a second-story deck is typically a straightforward matter of restoring the drainage, using the slope of the yard outside the disturbed area as a guide, and adding gravel for stability as necessary.
Instructions
1. Use a shovel and wheelbarrow to remove any soft soil or organic matter from the area underneath the deck. Replace with well-drained gravel, using the shovel and wheelbarrow.
2. Add gravel against the foundation wall of the house -- if the backfill was disturbed during construction -- within 8 inches of the top of the wall, still using the shovel and wheelbarrow. Slope away from the house with a minimum 5 percent slope, or a 3/4-inch drop over 1 foot, for at least 5 feet.
3. Follow the slope of the yard for the rest of the ground under the deck -- beyond the 5 feet of slope from the foundation -- which may be less than 5 percent. Make
sure the ground under the deck slopes a minimum of 2 percent, or a 2½-inch drop over 10 feet, from the high point of the slope to the low point of the slope, filling depressions with gravel, or cutting high spots down, as necessary, with the shovel or rake. Complete the work so that it's slightly below the high point of the grade adjacent to the ground under the deck, and slightly above the adjacent grade on the low side.
4. Slope away from the base of the deck posts. Rake the gravel to a uniform plane, with no dips or bumps. Wet the gravel with a water hose and spray attachment, and compact with a plate compactor.
5. Fill low spots with gravel, and smooth or cut high spots. Compact again if necessary.
A suspended light fixture, one that dangles down off the ceiling on a length of chain or cord, gives you options for changing the look of a room and the nature of the lighting. It's also a little more complicated to install than a standard ceiling fixture. Start by considering whether a hanging light is really right for that spot. (Centered over a dining room table, yes; hanging randomly in a hallway, probably not.)
Instructions
1. Turn off all power to the room at the house circuit box. Put your ladder under the existing fixture, and remove it from the ceiling by unscrewing the mounting screws that hold it to the electrical box. Disconnect all the electrical wiring between the box and the existing fixture. (Note: If there's no existing electrical box in the ceiling, one will have to be cut in, attached to a joist, correctly wired to a switch, and tied into the circuit box. Consult an electrician.)
2. Climb back up the ladder with your new hanging fixture. Set the light portion of the fixture on the paint shelf of your ladder. With the chain or cord that is between the light portion and the ceiling-canopy portion extended out to its longest possible length, hold the ceiling-canopy up to the electrical box.
3. Connect the wires coming out of the ceiling-mounted portion to the wires coming out of the electrical box, matching corresponding colors. Usually there will be one white and one black wire coming out of the box and a similar pair coming out of the fixture. Connect them by holding the wire ends side-by-side and sealing them in a wire nut. If there is a bare copper ground wire coming out of the electrical box, hook it around the green ground screw on the mounting hardware of the fixture.
4. Set the ceiling-canopy part of the light up against the box and loosely fasten one of the two screws that will hold the fixture to the box. Don't tighten the screw completely, and don't fasten the other screw, so that the ceiling-canopy is hanging off the ceiling on one side, allowing you to continue access the inside of the fixture.
5. If the light is hanging from a cord of cloth or other material, slide up the cord, threading it through the ceiling-canopy until the light is at the height you want and tucking the excess into the hollow space of the canopy. Secure the cord at that level by tightening the securing bolt and nut that the cord is running through on the bottom of the canopy. If it's hanging from a chain, use your bolt cutters to cut the chain at the desired length.
6. Tuck the wires up into the electrical box. Secure the other screw on the canopy to affix it in the proper position on the ceiling. Put in a bulb and turn on the power.
Armstrong commercial floor tiles are available in a wide variety of styles and colors to fit almost any taste. Commercial flooring tiles are designed for areas that experience high traffic volumes, and so are thicker and more durable than regular grade tiles. They are, however, are installed in the same manner as regular floor tiles. Cutting commercial tile is required in order to ensure that the tile fits around corners and door frames.
Instructions
Straight Edges
1. Measure the distance between the last installed tile and the wall or edge where the tile will be placed. Measure the space twice so that there is no mistake in the cutting process.
2. Lay the tile on a flat surface such as a work table or concrete. The knife can cut through the tile and damage the area below, so avoid cutting on the floor.
3. Measure and mark the tile where it needs to be cut. Use a square or a ruler to make straight lines.
4. Score the tile a few times with a utility knife or razor blade. Once the tile is scored, cut all the way through with the knife along the score line.
Irregular Lines
5. Place a piece of cardboard next to or under any items that you need to cut around. These may be door frames, bathtubs or pipes. Trace the shape of the item onto the cardboard.
6. Cut the traced edge out of the cardboard to create a template for the tile.
7. Measure the area where the tile will go to determine how far from the edge to cut the irregular line.
8. Place the cardboard on top of the commercial tile where the edge needs to be, and score the edge along the cardboard template.
9. Cut out the design or lines with a razor blade or utility knife. If the lines have intricate designs, tin snips should be used to get the lines as close to perfect as possible.
Nutone manufactures both ducted and ductless ventilation fans designed for residential applications. A Nutone fan receives its power supply from a typical switch-operated 120-volt electrical circuit. The ducted models connect to a ventilation duct that terminates outside. Ductless models circulate the interior air. Never install a ductless fan in rooms requiring exhaust ventilation. Both types of Nutone fans usually install above a bathroom's ceiling with only a louver showing below the drywall. A properly installed Nutone fan can remove moist air and bad odors.
Instructions
1. Turn off the circuit breaker feeding electricity to the Nutone fan. The appropriate circuit breaker should have a label listing the fan's room.
2. Lay out the Nutone fan's placement. Bathroom fans usually mount to the ceiling near the shower or tub door. Hold the fan's housing against the drywall and trace the fan housing's outline with a pencil.
3. Poke a hoke in the center of the outline with a screwdriver. Feel around above the drywall for ceiling joists or wires. Move the outline, as needed, if a joist or wire interferes with the fan's placement.
4. Cut the outline with a drywall saw. Use short strokes to avoid ripping the drywall. Remove the drywall square.
5. Unplug the fan unit from the Nutone fan's fan receptacle. The fan receptacle mounts to the housing's electrical compartment. The fan unit mounts to the inside of the fan's housing.
6. Remove the fan unit's mounting screw, located near the receptacle, with a hex-head screwdriver. Pull the fan unit from the housing. Save the screw.
7. Open the Nutone fan's electrical compartment using a hex-head screwdriver. Set the cover and the mounting screw aside.
8. Place a slotted screwdriver's blade into the slot in one of the knockouts. Bend the knockout back and forth until it snaps off. Knockouts provide wire access to the electrical compartment.
9. Mount the Nutone fan to the ceiling joists so that its finished edge rests even with the drywall's finished surface. If the ceiling does not have drywall, then mount the fan so its bottom edge finishes 1/2 inch below the joist. Screw the fan's mounting tabs, located on the sides of the fan's housing, to the joist with 1-inch wood screws.
10. Connect a 4-inch wide metal ventilation duct to a Nutone vented fan's duct damper. Slip the duct over the damper, located on the side of the housing, and secure it to the housing with metal-backed duct tape. Ductwork for a Nutone ventilation fan must run to an exterior termination point. Ductless fans skip this step.
11. Push the wire set from the switch into the Nutone fan's electrical compartment through the knockout hole. The switch's wire set should contain a black, a white and a bare copper wire.
12. Remove the last 3/8 inch of the insulating coating from each wire in the Nutone fan's with wire strippers. A total of five wires needs the coating removed -- two from the switch, the two connecting to the receptacle and a green ground wire.
13. Wrap the Nutone fan receptacle's black wire around the switch's black wire, the receptacle's white wire around the switch's white wire and the green wire around the bare copper wire. Spin a wire nut over each pair of wires.
14. Replace the electrical compartment's cover and the fan unit. Turn the fan blade with a finger to verify it spins freely.
15. Squeeze one of the louver's mounting springs, the wire springs connected to the interior side of the louver. Push the squeezed spring into the slot on the side of the fan's housing, then release the spring. Squeeze the second spring, place it in its respective slot and release the spring. Push the louver against the ceiling.
Drum shades work well for lamps or hanging fixtures.
Drum lamp shades can be found on standing lamps as well as ceiling fixtures. If you can't find the size shade you want in the color or texture you prefer, you can make your own shade the exact size you want. Your finished shade should be light and easy to install so you can cover existing unattractive fixtures, even in rental properties.
Instructions
1. Place the inner rings of two large, identical embroidery hoops on the work table. Measure the circumference of one ring and add 2 inches. This is the length measurement of your wallpaper and lining. Measure your height from the ceiling to the height you desire.
2. Cut wallpaper and white bulletin board to the size you need. Place the bulletin board paper face side down on the table. Paint the back side with decoupage glue starting 3 inches from one end. Position the wallpaper face-side up in the glue with the sides aligned. Glue to the end of the board. You will have 3 inches of exposed unglued board and wallpaper. Allow the glue to dry for four hours.
3. Turn the wallpaper face-side down. Apply a bead of lamp shade or white glue 6 inches along the top and of the paper. Align the inside of one embroidery ring with the edge so the ring is in the glue. Attach a sprung metal paper clip to hold the paper to the hoop. Smooth your fingers over the paper, glue and hoop for 2 inches and apply another clip. Continue until you run out of glue. Add another 6 inches of glue and continue until you reach the overlap section of the wallpaper. Repeat following the same technique for the bottom edge.
4. Glue the 3 inches of white bulletin board with decoupage glue. Press the overlap of the wallpaper into position. Add glue along the edges where wallpaper and bulletin board overlap. Press the edges together. Add more paper clips along the top and bottom edges. Allow the shade to dry for four hours.
5. Cut two pieces of double-fold bias tape 1 inch longer than the circumference of your shade. Glue the top front and inside edge of the shade. Fold the tape over the glue to the front and inside. Hold the tape in position with the paper clips. Repeat for the bottom edge.
6. Place the outside embroidery hoop ring over a sheet of diffuser plastic. Draw along the inside of the hoop with a marker. Tape over your line with painter's tape. Cut the plastic using a rotary tool with a cutting edge.
7. Spray the diffuser with spray adhesive. Position fabric over the diffuser and smooth. Allow the adhesive to dry for 20 minutes before trimming off the extra fabric. Insert the diffuser into the shade fabric-side down.
8. Screw three small screw eyes into the inside wood of the top embroidery hoop at an even distance apart.
9. Hold the shade up against the ceiling. Mark the ceiling next to each screw eye in the top of the shade. Screw three screw eyes into the ceiling at your marks. Cut three pieces of floral wire 2 inches long. Attach the shade to the ceiling by twisting one piece of floral wire from the ceiling eye to the shade eye. Repeat for the remaining two sets of eyes. Tuck the extra wire inside the shade.
Conventional fans circulate air in only one direction.
Conventional fans pull air from behind and circulate it forward, while 360 fans pull air from above and circulate it in every direction. Though these fans are more efficient and often have an attractive retro look, they can be pricey. As of November 2010, the Fontgate 360 fan costs over $200.
Placement
Like most fans, 360 degree fans should be placed on a sturdy, level surface, such as a floor or table. Unlike traditional fans, 360 degree fans cool in , so placing them in the middle of a room provides the most cooling power. Keep the fan far from any items you want to stay in place, such as documents or pictures.
Speed
Most 360 degree fans are available in three speeds. Since these fans cool more efficiently than traditional fans, you can often leave them at low or middle speed. Only move the fan to the highest speed if you need strong cooling or air circulation.
Safety
Since 360 degree fans are dome-shaped, they typically have a smaller pattern that makes it harder for children or pets to accidentally injure themselves. Double-check that the dome case of your fan is in place and secure.
If you have young children, keep the fan out of reach. Many 360 degree fan models weight over 10 pounds, much more than a typical fan. A falling 360 fan could easily injure small children.
A miter saw will make quick work of cutting your ceiling trim.
Cutting into miter angles will let the trim meet at the corners of the room cleanly and elegantly. To cut the trim, you will need a miter saw. Do not be intimidated by this power tool. As long as you place the miter saw on a stable work surface and keep your hands clear of the blade, you will get the job done safely. You will be able to cut miters with confidence by the time you are done.
Instructions
1. Align the saw pointer with the 45-degree mark on the degree scale of the miter saw.
2. Lock the saw's table into position.
3. Hold the trim against the saw's fence with your left hand. Greg Kossow, author of Trim Complete, suggests that a safe distance between your hand and the blade is equal to the width of your hand.
4. Turn on the saw and wait for it to reach its full speed.
5. Grasp the saw's handle with your right hand. Bring it down into the trim with a steady downward pressure. When the cut has been made, turn off the saw, leaving the blade in the down position. When the blade has completely stopped, move the blade back into the up position.
Tags: ceiling trim, into position, with your, your ceiling, your ceiling trim
The Gambrel ceiling has become a popular method for those who are building a new home with a high ceiling. The Gambrel design resembles the roof shape of old barns and is perfect if you are attempting to convey a rustic look to your home. The roof line is split in the middle with the steepest angles on the lower portion. In the use of interior ceilings, this lower steep angle changes into a gradual rise to the peak of the high ceiling. This split or change in angle occurs about halfway up the run of the interior ceiling. Running the length of the room, this split in the angle can be defined by the use of clean drywall lines or false wood beams to give the architecturally high ceiling a stunning look.
History
Gambrel roof lines were mainly found on barns. The open frame design allowed for large spaces to be placed on a second floor of the building. This space was typically used to store hay for the winter. The high roof can be supported by minimal timber framing which opens up valuable floor space.
Function
The Gambrel roof line resembles that of a Gable roof. A Gable roof line has two sloping surfaces that run the length of the building and meet in the centerline of the structure. Viewed from the end of a building, a Gable roof looks like a triangle. A Gambrel roof line also runs the length of the building but the slope of the roof is broken in the middle. The lower portion of the roof is steep, generally at a 12/7 pitch or 60 degree angle. This means that for every 7 inches of horizontal run the roof rises 12 inches. The upper roof portion is the opposite and much shallower, as it may be a 7/12 pitch or 30 degree angle. Thus, for every 12 inches in horizontal, the roof will rise 7 inches. This split angle design corresponds to the ceiling underneath. This type of ceiling is also called the Dutch Colonial house design.
Features
Gambrel ceilings can also be constructed inside or under other types of roofs if there is enough space for the construction. Interior framing can be bolted to the underside of a high-pitched roof to give the impression of the split ceiling design. Some Gambrel ceilings may also have posts that support the mid point of the roof joint that run from the ceiling down to the floor.
Considerations
Since the original design was for maximum space on a second floor, a Gambrel ceiling may create a space that is too large. The overall floor to ceiling effect may become difficult to heat on cold winter days if ceiling fans are not used to circulate the air. If used for a second floor application this type of design can give an immense amount of headroom for rooms that occupy a second or third floor area.
Potential
Older barns can, at times, be purchased inexpensively, torn down and resurrected elsewhere. The amount of space provided by the design of a Gambrel roof or ceiling can create affordable living space for a minimum investment.
Tags: Gambrel roof, roof line, Gable roof, high ceiling, second floor, ceiling create, ceilings also
Drop ceilings can turn a dreary basement into a comfortable living area. They hide the pipes and electrical wires that run across the joists but still offer easy access in case something needs repair. The Armstrong Company has been around since 1850 and leads the manufacture and sales of ceiling tiles worldwide. Armstrong offers a variety of different panel styles, as well as the option of 2-foot by 2-foot squares or 2-foot by 4-foot rectangles.
Instructions
1. Measure the room's length and width. Draw the room on a piece of paper and label the dimensions. Determine whether you will use 2-foot by 2-foot square panels or 2-foot by 4-foot rectangular panels. If the panel lengths do not fit the room's exact measurements, add the length of the panel to the leftover space and divide by two. For example, if you are installing the square panels in an 11-foot-long room, you would use five full panels but have 1 foot of leftover space. In that case, you would add 24 inches to 12 inches and divide the answer by 2 to get the length of the perimeter panels, which would be 18 inches.
2. Measure down at least 3 inches from the ceiling joists and make a mark. Set up a laser level to aim at the mark you made. The laser indicates the height the perimeter molding will be set at. If the room's walls are already drywalled, run a stud finder along the laser level's line to locate all the wall studs.
3. Lift the Armstrong wall molding up against the wall and align its bottom edge with the laser level line. Make sure its shelf points out toward the room. Secure the wall molding to each stud with a 6d nail. Butt the molding pieces' edges together at the inside corners. Use tin snips to cut the molding at a 45-degree angle to go around outside corners.
4. Mark the locations of the main beams, which run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Measure from each of the room's ends down to the measurement you got in Step 1, and place a mark on the wall above the wall molding. Next, finish measuring across the room, using a full panel's length. Repeat the measurements on the other side of the room. Extend a chalk line from one mark to the mark across the room from it, and snap the chalk line across the ceiling joists. Repeat this step with the remaining measurement marks.
5. Hammer a wire fastener into each ceiling joist, on the chalk line. Use tin snips to cut hanger wires 12 inches longer than your ceiling's drop. For example, if your ceiling drops 3 feet from the , cut hanger wire that's 4 feet long. Cut one piece of hanger wire for each wire fastener.
6. Push 6 inches of wire through the wire fastener's loop and bend it down. Wrap the short end of the wire around the long end three times to secure the wire to the fastener. Repeat this step with all the wire fasteners and wires.
7. Aim the laser level across the hanger wires 7/8 inch higher than the wall molding's shelf. Use a pair of pliers to bend each wire where the laser hits.
8. Place the tape measure's tab inside a main beam's first groove. Measure down toward the 's end the measurement you got in Step 1. Use tin snips to cut the back of the main beam at the measurement. Bend the beam down, and finish cutting off the end with the tin snips. Transfer the room's length to the main beam, and cut off any extra beam the same way you cut off the first end. If necessary, connect the main beams end to end by pushing their tabs together.
9. Lift the so their ends rest on the wall molding's shelf and they run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Center the main beams under the chalk lines. Insert the bent hanger wires through the round holes in the main beam's top edge. Bend the wire up, and wrap it around itself to hold the beam in place. If a hole is not located directly beneath a wire, unbend the wire and stretch it to the nearest hole. Insert it into that hole, and then rebend it to wrap around itself.
10. Insert the cross-tees' tabs into the main beams' grooves. It may be necessary to cut the perimeter cross-tees. If so, measure from the wall to the first groove. Transfer this measurement to a cross-tee and cut off the end that will be closest to the wall. Rest the cut end on the and insert the tab into the main beam's groove. Periodically measure the squares or rectangles diagonally. Your grid is square if the two diagonal measurements are exactly the same.
11. Install the perimeter Armstrong ceiling panels first. Measure from the wall to the cross-tee's edge and add 1/4 inch. Transfer this measurement to the ceiling panel, and place a mark on both the left and right side of the panel. Connect the two marks with a straightedge, such as an extra cross-tee, and cut along the straightedge with a utility knife.
12. Lift the panels up to the ceiling and then tilt them to raise them above the grid. Straighten the panels out and lower them so they rest on the grid.
Tags: main beam, wall molding, ceiling joists, main beams, laser level, wire fastener,
Mercury-containing fluorescent bulbs will soon all be replaced by LED and other alternatives.
The options for replacing fluorescent with LED lighting are increasing rapidly, with bulbs now available in a variety of light color temperatures, illumination levels and shape and size configurations. LED arrays can simply be screwed in in place of threaded compact fluorescents or incandescent bulbs; they also come in tubes for use directly in ceiling fixtures or by rewiring to eliminate ballast units. Front end cost is probably the greatest barrier to wide implementation of LED replacement, but considering their bulb life expectancy of 10 years or more, LEDs make an excellent choice. Many municipalities are tightening bans on the use of mercury-containing fluorescents in public and even commercial buildings, and there are currently no better options than LED replacements.
Instructions
1. Select LED replacement bulbs close in color temperature to those existing. Fluorescents range from warm white (the same color as household incandescent bulbs) around 2,700K to daylight bulbs of 5,000 to 6,500K. Most office fluorescent tubes are around 4,100K. LEDs come in many temperatures along this range. Ironically, the higher the color temperature, the cooler looking the light. Shop at a lighting store or online for the best selection and pricing.
2. Match the amount of illumination output of existing bulbs as closely as possible. LEDs used to be much dimmer than their counterparts, but the technology is changing rapidly, and LED arrays to replace fluorescent tubes rival their counterparts.
3. Match the thread base when replacing compact fluorescent lights with LEDs, and make sure the array will fit inside the fixture. Threaded LED come in flood and spotlight configurations for use in fixtures such as track lights and recessed ceiling fixtures as well as in forms for simple table lamps.
4. Remove the ballast units and starters from fluorescent fixtures that are being converted completely to LED use and that will use bulb arrays that do not require the ballasts. Use the same fixtures and end receptacles, but rewire to provide direct power to the bulbs following the instructions shipped with them.
5. Retrofit fluorescent fixtures with LED tubes that use the existing wiring and ballasts as a power source if desired. This type of bulb is fully compatible with the fluorescent tubes in the fixture and allows for switching to LED as the fluorescents burn out. Not all the bulbs have to be replaced at once, so front end costs are not as steep as in situations where you might need to replace the entire array at once.
6. Dispose of the fluorescent bulbs carefully and according to environmental guidelines for your area, as they contain mercury. Many municipalities have abatement programs to keep mercury out of landfills.
A ceiling fan can provide a cool breeze and circulate the air without the high cost of operating an air conditioner. Your ceiling fan's efficiency depends on getting the right size fan for your room.
Instructions
1. Use a measuring tape to get the approximate length and width of your room. If the room is not closed off, measure the amount of space you want the ceiling fan to serve.
2. Calculate the square footage of the room where the ceiling fan will go. Square footage is found by multiplying the length and width.
3. Choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 29 to 36 inches for a room that is 75 square feet or smaller.
4. Look for a ceiling fan that has a blade span of 36 to 42 inches for a room that measures 76 to 144 square feet.
5. Check out your options for a 44-inch blade span if you have a space between 144 and 225 square feet.
6. Find a large ceiling fan with a blade span between 50 and 54 inches if it will go in a space of 225 to 400 square feet.
If your deck has a solidly constructed roof, you may want to consider adding an outdoor ceiling fan. Depending on your level of electrical skills, you may be able to all or part of this project. It's easy enough to install the outdoor ceiling fan, but if the electrical wiring is not already in place, you may want to hire an electrician to complete that portion of the project.
Instructions
1. Choose a fan that is specifically for the outdoors. The outdoor ceiling fan should have sealed components that prevent moisture from getting into them. Make sure to get the right size for the area you're trying to cool.
2. Install the , outlet boxes and base plate. Don't hesitate to hire an electrician for this part of the job.
3. Assemble the fan blades according to directions on the package. Typically, you assemble the blades to the mounting brackets first. Most fans come with two color blades so choose which color you want to show.
4. Prepare the fan motor assembly according to directions. This includes preparing the base plate for a direct mount or connecting the down rods for a dropped mount.
5. the electricity is off. Hang the ceiling fan motor assembly to the base plate. Wire the fan to the electrical system. Turn the electricity back on and test all the connections to make sure they are correct. Follow all safety precautions to perform this step.
6. Attach the blades to the motor. Be sure to tighten all screws. Some fans have you perform this step earlier, so be sure to follow the directions for your fan.
7. Put up the light kit if one came with your fan. Also install any glass light covers as well as the light bulbs.
Tags: base plate, outdoor ceiling, according directions, electrical wiring, hire electrician, Make sure, motor assembly
Fans regulate air flow and temperature in the cabin in travel campers.
Installing a fan in a travel trailer provides a level of climate control in the camping cabin. Fans help regulate air flow and reduce condensation within the tight confines of a travel trailer. Most travel trailers have vents and fans pre-installed along the trailer ceiling. To install a new fan, use the existing vent holes or fan mounting brackets. Because the fans use the trailer's electrical system, you must turn the main breaker off during the installation to prevent electric shock and injury.
Instructions
1. Park the trailer and place the wheel chocks under the wheels. Disconnect all electrical sources and flip the main circuit breaker off.
2. Unscrew the vent from the roof and remove. Scrape off the old caulk molding and wash the vent hole to prep it for the new fan.
3. Place the fan over the vent hole. Measure the set-screw holes for the bracket to the roof. Mark the hole mount areas with the marker. Drill the holes and place the mounting bracket to the drilled holes and align. Screw the bracket to the roof.
4. Go in the RV and pull the fan wires out from the side of the vent hole. Find the wire caps and remove. There will be a red, black and white wire. The white wire is the grounding wire. Push the three wires down so they stick out into the camping cabin.
5. Wire the fan to the travel trailer wires. Twist the red cables-wires to each other and push a wire fid over the top. Crimp it down to secure the connection. Twist the black wires together and put a fid on the ends and crimp down. Screw the white grounding wire to the grounding screw on the fan. Use a screwdriver to attach.
6. Screw the fan onto the mounting bracket. Caulk around the entire inside fan bracket and the ceiling-interior fan hole. Let the caulk dry. Turn on the main circuit and turn the fan on to test the connection.
Repairing a drywall ceiling with water damage can be done by replacing the damaged section of the drywall with a new section. This is the only way to truly repair the water damaged drywall because drywall by nature, is a porous material and will likely absorb the water, making it a cesspool for mold growth. The mold cannot be sanded down or painted over, so to avoid health complications, replacing the damaged section of drywall is the best remedy even though it may take some extra time.
Instructions
1. Cut out the damaged section of the drywall. Make sure that the section being cut out covers at least two ceiling joists even if the actual damaged area is smaller. Cut the section out with a utility knife, being careful not to cut any electrical wires behind the walls. Cut out a square or rectangular shape.
2. Measure the section needed to fill in the gap. Trace the measurements on a new piece of drywall with the same thickness as the existing drywall ceiling.
3. Score the marked lines with a utility knife, using a straight edge to guide the score. Score until the drywall is able to get snapped off. Snap the drywall along a straight edge.
4. Apply adhesive along the ceiling joist where the new drywall will be installed.
5. Screw the dry new wall into place with drywall screws, allowing the screw heads to break into the surface of the drywall. This will create a slight depression but will later be filled with compound.
6. Drive in the screws 7 inches apart along the joists.
7. Spread drywall compound, also known as "mud," with a trowel. Apply several thin coats rather than one thick coat, letting each layer dry. Sand down the final layer with medium coarse sandpaper to smooth out any rough patches. Prime and paint as needed.
create your own BOSE speaker system and save a ton of money
Bet you wouldn't believe how easy it is to build your own Hi-Fi home theater speaker system using both BOSE and BOSE-equivalent components. When it comes to home theater, quality sound and good looks don't come cheap. In this article I'll show you DIY.
You may notice relevant advertizing links on the sides of this article as well as google ads listed in the middle of the page that may help you with your project. Please feel free to check out the great things they have to offer.
Instructions
1. First, you'll need to get a BOSE bass module. You'll be using your own receiver so you will want to match the module to it. Mine is a 5.1 surround sound receiver so I chose the BOSE Acoustimass 6 bass module. I purchased it on eBay at a steal. Here you can see the front of it and the back with the inputs and outputs.
2. Now let's talk about the cube drivers you'll need.
If you can find enough BOSE cube replacement drivers at a good price them snag-'em-up! I found some BOSE-equivalent drivers on eBay, too, but availability there is a shot in the dark.
These speaker drivers are available on the web here at http://simplyspeakers.com/14replacements.htm near the bottom of the page for $24.95 each. Here are the details of the speaker:
3" SONY
Part #1-505-440-11
FULL RANGE
8 Ohm
Size: 2-3/4" Square
Hole cut out: 2-1/2"
Power: 11W
Response: 100-16Khz
Magnet: 5 oz. Shielded
Sensitivity: 85 dB
3. Use basswood plywood for the speaker box. You can find it at your local craft store like Michael's, Hobby Lobby, or HobbyTown USA. A mitre saw will make short work of cutting the different pieces. Carpenter's wood glue creates a sealed bond and sewing needle heads work like tiny nails to tightly secure the bonds.
To make the needle heads, snip sewing needles in half using the cutters on your needle-nose pliers. Save the pointed tips for later.
Hold the "nail" perpendicular in the pliers and push the pin head in. Use a hammer to finish the job. In the picture here you might notice that I'm using the point and not the head. The point is for the frame, the head is for the box.
4. Glue scrap pieces in the corners and pre-drill them. Measure and mark carefully as these will be where you insert the screws to hold the speaker firmly in place.
Drill a hole in the back of the box and install the RCA female connector. You can find them at Radio Shack or Fry's Electronics. This picture shows good detail of these two steps.
Use paint or wood veneer and clear coat to finish the box.
Use speaker wire to connect the speaker to the RCA connector (maintain correct polarity + to +, - to -.
Use solder to secure these connections.
5. Now comes the finishing touch - The face frame.
This is the most difficult part as the frame is very delicate.
It is made of two parts: both an inner and outer frame. The outer frame is 1/4 inch balsa wood - its outer dimensions should match that of the face of the box. The inner frame is 1/8 inch - its outer dimensions should match closely to the inside of the outer frame while leaving room for the fabric thickness because the inner frame is used to "stretch" the grille fabric to cover the front of the speaker.
You can choose to not use the fabric. Substitute some "cool-headed" screws for an audiophile look.
Assemble the frames with wood glue and pin tips.
6. Screw the speakers into the boxes.
Paint the frames and attach them to the box with pin tips, too.
A cosmic star ceiling is a creative decorative feature of a room, while also being an informative way of learning about the stars in the solar system. It is a suitable and stimulating way to educate children and adults alike before going to sleep. You can create your own cosmic star ceiling by using some glow-in-the-dark stars and double-sided tape without damaging the ceiling. It is a cost-effective way of re-creating the universe in your own home.
Instructions
1. Plan the layout of the stars and planets on the ceiling. Begin by getting a simplified map of the stars from a bookshop, the library or from the Internet. Make sure it includes major star constellations like Orion's Belt, the sun and the planets in the solar system.
2. Draw a map of your ceiling on a piece of paper, and make dots in the positions where you will put the stars. This helps when attaching the stars to the ceiling. Begin with the sun, then the planets and then add some star constellations.
3. Scale the map to your ceiling. To do this, get the ceiling-to-map ratio by dividing the width of the map by the width of the ceiling. Then, measure between the stars on the map. Multiply this distance by the ceiling-to-map ratio. This is the distance that the stars should be apart on the ceiling.
4. Position your ladder in one corner of the room, and begin making dots with a pencil to mark out where you will affix the stars. Work around the edge of the room and then fill in the central area.
5. Check that the dots fit onto the ceiling so that the stars are accurately positioned. Check by cross referencing between the map and the ceiling. The scale does not have to be exact, especially since the universe is so big.
6. Cut short lengths of . Each length should fit onto the back of each star.
7. Get back up the ladder with the stars and stick them to the ceiling. Remove the outer plastic on the double-sided tape, and then press the star firmly into place.
8. Continue with step 7 until all the stars marked onto the ceiling are attached. Then, wait until it is dark and turn the lights out. Lie on the bed in the room and look at your amazing cosmic ceiling glowing.
Tags: double-sided tape, ceiling Begin, ceiling-to-map ratio, cosmic ceiling, cosmic star ceiling, onto ceiling, solar system
Decorative plastic ceiling tiles will add an elegant touch to your living room, dining room or bedroom. Made of molded plastic, these tiles have intricate designs that resemble the elegant tin ceilings of centuries past, without the expense.
You'll have a wide variety of colors and three-dimensional designs to choose from at online stores or at home improvement retailers.
Styles
The variety of ceiling tile patterns is surprisingly large. They range from plain flat and molded edge panels to baroque, gothic, French floral, Spanish rose, palm leaf panels and even include exotic animal skin designs such as alligator, ostrich and elephant. All are in three dimensional form.
Colors
If you prefer the look of antique copper, gold or silver or if you have a specific color in mind, decorative plastic can be painted with water-based paint. You can paint them yourself or you can custom order them. Two and three color designs both in antique and modern designs are also available, with intricate detailing.
Materials
Decorative plastic ceiling tiles are made from different types of plastic, including polysterene foam (styrofoam). They are fire rated, and generally come in 24" x 24" squares. Two great advantages of using plastic ceiling tiles instead of metal is their corrosion resistance and cost; they're half the price of metal tile.
Applications
Decorative are not only used for ceilings. Plastic tiles can be used as backsplashes behind sinks in kitchens and bathrooms. They can be painted and mounted as a separate piece of artwork for the wall in your living room. Plastic ceiling tiles are also used to create headboards for beds or surround doors or fireplaces.
Where to Buy
Acoustic Ceiling Products in Appleton, Wisconsin has a wide variety of high quality plastic ceiling tiles for commercial builders. Their products can be purchased for DIY projects at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards and Do It Best Stores. They also sell the grid systems that are used for installation. Their latest products are featured on HGTV's "I Want That."
Ceilume Smart Ceiling Tile has a large selection of plastic ceiling tiles at their online store. Many other sources are available online.
Tray ceilings add an extra dimension of design that can spruce up an otherwise ordinary room, but installing one is costly and messy. The use of a painting technique called trompe l'oeil allows you to fake the look of a tray ceiling with paint -- the term translates to "fool the eye," and you must pay careful attention to light and shadow to make the effect successful. Rooms with very low ceilings are not suited to the effect because the dimension takes on additional shape with distance. That said, the trompe l'oeil look itself can be a charming style even if the illusion doesn't work, adding a mural effect instead of faux dimension.
Instructions
1. Wipe the ceiling down with clean water. Dirt, dust and grime can keep the paint from adhering properly. Apply a coat of primer if you're planning to cover a dark color with a light color.
2. Draw two diagonal lines connecting opposite corners -- you should be left with a giant "x" across the ceiling. Use a chalk line or laser level for accuracy. These lines with designate the corners of your tray.
3. Mark off four concentric squares, with the corners at the diagonal lines. The innermost square will be the raised part of the tray, the next square out will be the sloping sides of the tray, the next square will be the vertical sides of the soffit and the outer square will be the bottom side of the soffit. The squares can be any size you like, but the outer one should be the smallest.
4. Paint the innermost square with your tray color and allow to dry.
5. Observe how light enters the room, and take note of which side has the strongest light and which side has the least light. Look at your walls -- even if they are painted the same color, you will notice the variation in tone between them. This effect is very important for the ceiling, and you will be mixing colors to replicate it.
6. Measure off enough tray color to paint one side of your next square, and pour it into a clean container. Mix a very small amount of white paint into it and stir well. Test the color on a practice board and have a helper hold the board next to the painted part of the ceiling on the side where the light hits the strongest. The contrast should be noticeable, but not so light that it turns into a pastel. Keep adding white and remixing until you achieve the correct tone, then paint the light side of the square with that color. Allow to dry.
7. Add a small amount of dark gray paint to your tray color, and test on a practice board. Hold it up to the ceiling on the second-lightest side, and paint that side of the square once you get the tone correct. Allow to dry.
8. Repeat the process for the next two sides, adding more and more gray as you progress toward the dark side of the room. Allow to dry.
9. Repeat the mixing/testing/painting process on the next square, but use your soffit color. The lightest side of this square should be rather bright, as the light from the window would hit the vertical side of a soffit directly. Likewise, the dark side should be very dark because it would only receive ambient light, not light from the window.
10. Repeat the mixing/testing/painting process again with the soffit color on the outer square, but start with a slightly darker tone on the light side and work your way darker from there. The bottom of the soffit should not catch very much direct light, and would mostly be illuminated by ambient or reflected light. Allow to dry.
11. Paint in additional highlights and shadows if you wish, but keep in mind that the direction of the light changes with the time of day. If you get very detailed, the illusion will work brilliantly for about 30 minutes every day, but will fail for the rest of the day. Keep all light and shadow subtle for the best effect.
Tags: next square, square will, tray color, your tray, Allow Repeat, dark side, diagonal lines
Pipes and floor joists do not make for enjoyable decoration.
Finishing a basement ceiling to suit a family's needs can be a do-it-yourself project with the right materials. Without a ceiling, a basement may look unfinished, regardless of the other decor in the space. Finished walls, floors and furniture are dulled by the gaping area overhead. Professional installation of a ceiling may be out of the budget, and doing it yourself can cut the costs significantly.
Drop Ceiling
A drop ceiling may be the best option for basements with systems of overhead piping and vents. A drop, or false ceiling, hangs from the overhead joists and are typically sold in installation systems containing a metal frame that is tied with wire to the overhead joists. A series of panels slide into the frame to make a ceiling and block out the unsightly pipes and joists overhead. The tiles can typically be painted after the fact to match the surrounding decor or left white for a more traditional look.
Paneling
For ceilings without overhead pipes, or pipes flush between the overhead , paneling intended for walls is an option. Fairly inexpensive, paneling is available in a range of colors, prints and designs to match almost any decor. Nail or use a staple gun to attach the pieces directly to the furrows, or overhead floor joists. If the ceiling has piping or duct work, providing access to these areas will be necessary. If you cover them with paneling, prepare to remove the pieces if maintenance work is needed.
Plywood
Sheets of plywood may be applied to a sturdy basement ceiling. Nail the plain sheet of wood to the overhead floor joists and finish to the desired look. You can use a simple clear coat for a natural wood look, or stain as you would furniture. Paint to match the rest of the area to link the ceiling to the rest of the room. The plywood may also be the base for ceiling tiles. Glue the tiles directly to the wood, or staple them on.
Industrial
For those working with a tight budget, an industrial look for the ceiling may be the solution. Instead of covering piping and ductwork with materials to hide them, an industrial ceiling accentuates these items. The process begins with priming all the metal and wood with the appropriate primers, and the ceiling is then spray painted all one color. For a high industrial look, use a silver or copper color. To tone it down, choose white or even black. Multiple bright colors give a whimsical look to the room, which works well for play or game room basements.
Many homes and buildings have textured ceilings that both add to the internal decor, as well as absorb sound. If ceiling repairs are required, such as in the wake of a roof leak, the texture of the ceiling also requires repair. While matching the existing ceiling texture is a straightforward task, it takes some practice to blend the repair site in with the surrounding ceiling. The supplies, however, are relatively inexpensive and homeowners can accomplish the project themselves.
Instructions
1. Spread plastic drop cloths over the floor under the area of ceiling you are repairing. Position a ladder under the area so that you can easily access all areas of the repair site.
2. Fill a spray bottle with 1 to 2 cups of warm water and spray the ceiling area with a fine mist, just until it is wet. Wait until the texture feels soft and scrape off all damaged or discolored texture using a putty knife.
3. Wait until the ceiling is completely dry and apply a white primer over it using a paint roller to prepare it for the texture material. Wait until the primer dries completely to the touch.
4. Open a tub of joint compound, also called drywall mud. Scoop out 3 to 4 cups and place it into a 1 gallon bucket. Add water to the bucket a little at a time and stir using a trowel. Continue adding water until the joint compound mix is the constancy of syrup.
5. Apply the mixture using a 3- to 4-inch-long brush and dabbing the bristles against the ceiling if you have a popcorn texture. If the ceiling is a swirl texture, spread it on in a 1/4-inch-thick layer with a drywall trowel. Then move the bristles of the brush in semicircles to match the swirls. If the ceiling has a crow's feet or "slapbrush" pattern, apply the joint compound to a long-bristled paint brush and tap it against the ceiling to match the texture.
6. Wait 24 hours to allow the joint compound to dry and then or cream-colored paint over the entire ceiling with a thick-napped roller to further blend the textures together.
Tags: joint compound, Wait until, against ceiling, apply white, repair site
Acoustic ceiling tiles can be beautiful but also a potential health hazard.
Acoustic ceiling tiles not only reduce the noise in a den or music room but can reduce heating bills by lowering the total area of a room, and add to the d cor. However, many molds thrive within these tiles if the humidity of the room remains high over a period of time. These molds can disperse throughout the room causing various infections and illnesses when they come into contact with skin or are inhaled.
Stachybotrys atra (S. atra) a form of "Black mold"
S. atra, a dark, slow growing fungal spore, thrives on high cellulose, low nitrogen building material such as acoustic tile.
According to the Advanced Mold Inspection website, Stachybotrys atra or "Black mold" produces chemical toxins or mycotoxins inside the mold spore, becoming toxic mold, which can be inhaled, ingested, or come into contact with skin causing fever, cold and flu symptoms, headaches, dermatitis, nose bleeds, cough and general malaise. Awareness of the dangers of this health problem occurred when a study was done after infants in Cleveland, Ohio in the 1990s died of pulmonary hemorrhaging. Researchers found that the babies had been exposed to high levels of S. atra in their homes.
Cladosporium, another "Black mold"
Also found on acoustic ceiling tile, Cladosporium, one of the most common "black molds," contains a black pigment, a protection from ultraviolet light. Although it does not produce any major mycotoxins it causes severe illness and infections when it enters abrasions or small cuts. The immune system can weaken after prolong exposure, allowing the host to get infected by viruses and bacteria.
Penicillium/ Aspergillus spp.
Commonly found together, Penicillium and Aspergillus spp are difficult to differentiate even under a microscope and are known to be both toxigenic and allergenic.
Penicillium and Aspergillus spp. contaminate acoustic ceiling tile, and according to John C. S. Chang, et al, at the Air and Energy Engineering Research Laboratory, a division of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, even new tiles can contain both Aspergillus ssp. and Penicillium fungi if the environmental conditions are right. These fungi thrive on tile where moisture content (MC) is greater than 2.2% and the relative humidity (RH) is as low as 85%. Chang further claims that used tiles may be even more susceptible to these molds than new tiles.
Dr. Thad Godish , PH.D., C.I.H., a Ball State University professor of natural Resource and Environmental Management, reports that a 6-inch spot infected with Penicillium produces millions of spores which are tiny and tend to remain airborne longer than other mold spores which make them a more ubiquitous inhalant.
With more than 160 species of mold, 16 causing human disease, the genus Aspergillus spp. causes a disease known as aspergillosis that, according to The Toxic Black Mold Information Center as of July, 2010, "is now the second most common fungal infection requiring hospitalization in the United States."
Alternaria
The ubiquitous Alternaria, found on interior horizontal surfaces such as acoustic ceiling tile, exhibits larger spores that attach to oral, nasal or other pulmonary walls and is associated with baker’s asthma, invasive infection, sinusitis and intrinsic asthma. More serious symptoms are bronchiospasms and edema which, over time, can develop into pulmonary emphysema.
If you're a budding chef, an accomplished cook or just a homeowner with beautiful pots and pans to show off, a hanging pot rack can be a great accessory. Besides adding visual interest, it provides extra storage and frees space in the cabinets. After choosing the style that fits your decor, you can hang the pot rack yourself. Here's how.
Instructions
1. Look for a place to hang your pots that's within reach (this distance will differ for each homeowner). You don't want to hang the pot rack too high for you to reach. Consider your light sources and make sure you don't block ceiling lights or natural light. Think about whether your kitchen needs a focal point, and if that focal point will block the view into another space, such as a great family room.
2. Locate your joists. You can do this one of two ways: use a stud finder or look for nails or nail heads. A stud finder is very simple, only requiring you to slide it across the ceiling and wait for the beep or flash indicating a solid frame. If you don't have a stud finder, you can check for joists every 16" to 24", looking for nails or nail heads and then tapping the area to find the solid frame.
3. Drill the pilot holes. Once you've located the ceiling joists and decided where along the frame you want your pot rack to hang, measure the distance between the chains, and mark your ceiling. Drill the pilot holes, making sure that the holes are no larger than your ceiling hooks.
4. Secure the chains. After screwing the hooks into the ceiling, you can begin to install the rack. Begin this process by deciding how low you want the rack to hang, and adjust the chains accordingly. Hang the chains on the ceiling hooks, doing so without the rack attached to minimize the weight you're carrying over your head.
5. Attach your rack. Once the chains are hanging at the desired length, you can attach the rack to the chains. After this is done, you can begin to hang your pots and pans.
were originally designed to protect the ceiling from candle burns.
Ceiling medallions add a touch of class and elegance to any home. They can be paired with a lovely chandelier or stand alone to provide a focal point in what would otherwise be a plain and boring area. Installation of the medallion itself is rather simple for anyone familiar with tools, but if you choose to pair the medallion with a chandelier then the wiring may prove a challenge.
Instructions
1. Turn off power to the fixture at the breaker, if you are attaching a medallion above a light fixture. Remove the light fixture from the ceiling and unscrew the fixture's ceiling bracket.
2. Clean the ceiling area with a sponge and dish soap. Remove all dust, dirt and debris as well as any chipped paint or leftover caulk from the light fixture.
3. Mark and cut the medallion's center so wires can pass through, if you are installing a light fixture as well. If the medallion already has a hole, ensure it is big enough to allow access to the electrical box. Dry fit the entire assembly, making sure wires are long enough to reach the fixture.
4. Paint the medallion to match the ceiling or accentuate details, if desired. Allow the medallion to dry completely before attempting to attach it to the ceiling.
5. Apply construction adhesive to the back side -- not the decorated side -- of the medallion. The adhesive should be spread generously, but not enough that it will ooze over the ceiling medallion's edges. Place the medallion on the ceiling and secure it with screws. Apply caulk around the edge of the medallion to seal it against the ceiling. Cover any holes in the medallion with spackling paste.
6. Touch up any paint issues once the caulk and adhesive have dried. Attach the light fixture.
Tags: light fixture, Ceiling medallions, medallion with