If you've ever been to the tropics, you know that most of the year there are warm temperatures. This can be hard for some travelers to handle if they come from cooler regions. Staying cool during warm weather is important for both comfort and an enjoyable trip.
Instructions
1. Stay in the shade. Avoid doing anything active during the midday or afternoon. This is the time to sit in the shade and do nothing. Save activities for evening or early morning.
2. Wear loose and light clothing. Stick with cottons and breathable materials in light colors. Avoid anything tight or constricting. Encourage air flow.
3. Keep things frozen. One idea is to fill cloth bags with rice and keep them in the freezer. You can on your forehead, neck and chest when it really gets hot. You can also place them in pet beds for your animals. The rice retains the coolness for awhile then you can switch them out when you need another.
4. Plant trees and plants. Plants and trees keep things cool not only because of the shade but because of their photosynthesis process as well. The more plants and trees you have around, the cooler you will be.
5. Keep it breezy. Head to places where there is a breeze like the beach or up on hills and mountains. Keep fans going in the rooms that you are staying in. Ceiling fans are great for helping cool things down at night.
6. Turn off heat-makers. Keep lights off and unplug hot running appliances that aren't in use. Don't use the oven or stove. Turn off computers and televisions.
7. Get wet. Take a cold shower, mist yourself with a water bottle or go for a dip in the ocean or pool. As the water evaporates from your body, you will feel cooler.
Tags: Cool Tropics, place them, Stay Cool, Stay Cool Tropics
Texturing a ceiling adds depth and interest to ceiling while concealing an imperfect surface. Texture also helps to seamless bring together new construction with existing ceilings. There are many techniques to choose from that will each leave a different design on your ceiling ranging from random patterns to sleek designs. A strong and durable base is a requirement for adding texture with drywall compound.
Instructions
1. Remove furniture, window coverings and unnecessary items from the room. Lay down large tarps to protect floors and items that you are unable to remove. Tape thin sheets of plastic to the walls to protect them from drywall compound while adding texture.
2. Repair holes and cracks. Apply drywall compound with a flexible putty knife. Remove and replace badly damaged sections of the ceiling. Allow areas of previous water damage to remain open after removing the section so it can dry out.
3. Mix drywall compound with water to thin down the consistency to that of cake batter or slightly thicker depending on the design you are creating. Equip a power drill with a ribbon mixer bit to mix drywall compound when thinning.
4. Dip a paintbrush into the drywall compound and flick it at the ceiling to create a popcorn effect. Apply a coat of compound with a trowel and drag the notched side of the trowel through it in a circular motion. Pour the compound into a roller tray, roll a medium-nap paint roller through the compound and roll it onto the ceiling. Apply a layer of joint compound to the ceiling with a trowel. Dab at the wet finish with a paintbrush or swirl the paintbrush around on the surface.
5. Allow the joint compound to dry completely, usually overnight before applying primer and paint.
The only differences between plastic and polyurethane lies in the manufacturing process and the properties and . Polyurethane is the preferred material for ceiling medallions due to strength, function and ease of use. Ceiling medallions may also be made of plaster, wood or metal. Cost is also a factor in choice of medallion material, with plastic and polyurethane being most often cheaper than other materials.
Description
A ceiling medallion is a decorative disk used to accent ceiling fixtures like lights or fans. The stem of the fixture extends through the center of the shaped medallion. They can be ornate or simple, bold or subtle, depending on the taste of the individual homeowner. They can also be painted to either accent a room or to blend in. They are often colored to match or accent any decorative trim or molding in the room.
Cost
Polyurethane medallions are usually the lowest cost in their class because they are mass-produced. Wood and plaster medallions are often produced individually, placing a higher value on them. Other plastics may be cheaper in materials than polyurethane, but often the cost of labor and installation is greater because polyurethane medallions allow for easy, do-it-yourself installations.
Durability
Ceiling medallions molded of polyurethane hold up better to the handling received than just about any other material. Lightweight, they are easy to handle during awkward overhead installations. Plaster is easily shattered if dropped or knocked during installation. Metal can be easily dented, ruining its overall symmetry. Other plastics may be prone to expansion and contraction, depending on the types of in their manufacture and whether or not they are solid in construction or simply a plastic shell, which is often the case.
Customization
A final point in the favor of polyurethane over other plastics is its ease of customization. It readily takes any type of paint or finish without priming and can even be finished with faux techniques such as marbleizing, washing or texturing. Due to an ultraviolet-light-resistant top coat, the polyurethane surface accepts any good-quality paint in any base, allowing it to fit with ease into your decorating scheme.
Tags: during installation, materials used, Other plastics,
Knowing remove a Hunter flush ceiling fan is complicated by the fact that you may not have installed the fan in the first place. Each Hunter fan has slightly different installation instructions. Take special precautions with your fan blades during removal, because a bent blade can cause an out-of-balance fan.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the fan at the breaker.
2. Remove the lower switch housing from the fan by removing the three screws that attach it to the upper switch housing. Pull apart the wires to the upper and lower switch housing by unplugging the connectors holding them together. Remove the upper by removing the three screws holding it to the ceiling fan motor. Both the upper and lower switch housings attach to the bottom of the fan, below the fan blades.
3. Take the fan blades off the motor by removing the two screws that hold the blades to the flush ceiling fan. Remove the four screws holding the fan housing to the hanging bracket. The fan housing covers the ceiling fan motor and the electrical box.
4. Remove the two screws from the hanging bracket that secures the ceiling fan motor to the bracket. Remove the wire connectors from the wires inside the electrical box. Disconnect the fan from the house wiring and lift the fan from the hanging bracket.
5. Take down the ceiling fan hanger bracket by removing the two screws holding it to the electrical box. Cover the exposed house wiring by replacing the wire connectors onto the black and white wires. Wrap the wire connectors with electrical tape to secure the connectors to the wires until you install a new fixture or ceiling fan.
6. Turn the power back on to the ceiling fan circuit only if it is necessary to operate other electrical fixtures on the circuit; otherwise, leave the breaker off.
Add decorative bulbs, shades, shells or mobiles to decorate ceiling lights.
Ceiling lights provide overhead illumination and usually need little attention. The light fixture styles and lampshades for ceiling lights quickly become outdated or no longer go with the room due to changes in color or style. Decorating ceiling lights gives them a new look without the need to replace the fixture or lampshades. Change the look of an individual or group ceiling light fixture with projects that take only a few dollars and less than a day to complete.
Instructions
Individual Ceiling Lights
1. Decorate an individual ceiling light with a lampshade mobile. Check lighting stores, home improvement stores, catalogs and websites to get ideas for the type of mobile that best suits your home. Many are made of translucent materials, allowing light to pass through and adding interest to an ordinary ceiling light. This also serves to camouflage out-of-date or unattractive ceiling light shades or fixtures.
2. Measure the width of the ceiling light at its widest point and make a note of the measurement.
3. Buy a lampshade mobile wide enough to fit over the ceiling light
4. Install a decorative ceiling hook by screwing it into the ceiling next to the ceiling light, if needed. Alternatively, use the hardware provided with the lampshade mobile
5. Hang the lampshade mobile by holding it centered below the ceiling light and raising it over the ceiling light to the desired position. Hang it from the ceiling hook or provided hardware.
Decorate Chandelier or Multiple-Bulb Fixtures
6. Replace plain light bulbs with decorative bulbs in ceiling fixtures where the bulb is exposed, such as those with shades open on the bottom and some chandelier-style ceiling lights.
7. Select large flat seashells and smaller shells to decorate ceiling fixture lampshades. Because of their translucence, seashells allow light to show through.
8. Remove the lampshades from the ceiling light fixture. Some lift up or unscrew to the right. If there are screws or knobs holding the shade in place, turn each one until the shade is loose enough to remove. Hand each shade to an assistant.
9. Clean the shades. Use a vacuum cleaner brush gently on fabric shades. Wash glass shades in mild dish soap and warm water. Dry them thoroughly with a dishtowel.
10. Place the seashells against a ceiling light shade to see how they'll fit. You may need to make two or three rows. One large shell place on the outside of the shade so it's the most visible may be sufficient. Leave 1-inch clearance at the base of the lampshade so you can get a good grip on it when you need to remove it for cleaning.
11. Apply glue to the lampshade and press the seashell into the desired position. Add smaller shells for additional decoration, if desired.
Hanging a canopy from your ceiling doesn't mean you have to destroy your ceiling.
A canopy is a simple, cost-effective solution that can truly have a transformative effect on a room. While canopies are ideal ways to decorate banquet rooms, reception halls and even bedrooms, their initial function was purely protective: to shield debris from medieval ceilings from falling onto the heads of peaceful sleepers. However, if you want to install a canopy in your bedroom or even above your dining room table, this doesn't mean you have to start drilling holes into your ceiling. Rather, there is a simpler, more strategic way to hang a canopy, and one which does not require the use of power tools.
Instructions
1. Set up a step stool just under one of the corners of the area you wish to cover. Locate the place where you want your hook to go, and circle it with a piece of chalk. Repeat this step at the three remaining corners of your ceiling.
2. Saturate a soft cloth with rubbing alcohol. Wipe down the inner circle of each corner that you circled in chalk with rubbing alcohol to remove dust and grease. Allow them to air dry.
3. Peel off the adhesive backing from a self-adhesive hook. The maximum weight each self-adhesive hook can support is 5 lbs. Canopies generally weigh 5 lbs. to 10 lbs. Place the sticky side of the hook in the center of each circled corner. Press down hard for at least one minute. Repeat with three more hooks for each of the three corners. Allow them to set for one hour minimum.
4. Cut four pieces of 12-inch-long canvas cord (1/4 inch thick) in a color that matches your canopy with a utility knife. Make a tiny slit through each corner of the canopy and slide your piece of cord through halfway.
5. Tie each piece of cord to a respective hook using a tight double knot.
Tags: your ceiling, Allow them, doesn mean, doesn mean have, each corner, mean have
A typical home or apartment may contain several types of hanging light fixtures, such as pendant lights, chandeliers, or swag lamps. All of these lamp types can be hardwired into an electrical box in the ceiling, but a swag lamp can also be plugged into a duplex wall outlet. A swag lamp of this configuration usually will be equipped with an in-line switch mounted on the , somewhere near the plug. Hanging a swag lamp is a fairly easy project, provided you have the right tools, and perhaps a willing assistant.
Instructions
1. Determine the location where you'd like to hang your . The cord on a swag lamp is usually 15 feet long, but the chain may be the same length or somewhat shorter. Thus, the lamp must be hung no further than that distance from a wall. The lamp cord will be threaded through the links of the chain. The extra length of the cord is needed to hang down along the wall where the power outlet is located. The chain will be suspended from, and draped between, a pair of swag hooks.
2. Mount the stepladder. Measure from the desired hanging location to the wall where the power outlet is located. The lamp must be hung no further from the wall than the length of the chain. Once you determine where the first swag hook will be mounted, mark the ceiling with the pencil.
3. Using the stud finder, determine if your pencil mark is located directly below any framing. If so, the stud finder will detect the presence of the metal screws or nails holding up the sheetrock of your ceiling. This important step will determine which type of hardware you will use to mount the hook, a lag-threaded stud or the spring-loaded toggle-wing bolt.
4. Place two small pieces of masking tape on the ceiling where your pencil mark is located. Use the tape to form an "X". This will help prevent the ceiling from cracking when you drill through the sheetrock.
5. Drill a hole in the ceiling. If you are directly below the framing, use a drill that is slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded stud. This will ensure that the threads bite into "good wood". If your mounting location is between framing members, use a drill slightly larger than the diameter of the toggle wings when they are closed. Press the wings together to help determine this measurement.
6. Mount the swag hook. If using the threaded lag, slip the top into the slot in the base of the swag hook. Screw it into the ceiling using a clockwise motion. Continue rotating until the base of the hook is flush against the ceiling. If you are using a toggle bolt, attach it to one end to the threaded rod from the swag hook kit, and screw the other end of the rod into the base of the swag hook. If the toggle has been correctly attached, when the wings open, they will face the underside of the swag hook. Insert the toggle into the ceiling. After the wings open, turn the swag hook until it snugs up against the ceiling. Your first hook is now securely in place.
7. Move the ladder, and then extend the swag chain, it should almost reach the wall. Use the stud finder to help you determine which type of fastener you will need for the second hook. Then follow the installation instructions previously discussed in Steps 4 to 6.
8. Hang the swag lamp chain from the first swag hook and then hang the other end of the chain on the second swag hook. Remove any exposed masking tape.
9. Plug the lamp cord into the wall outlet. Your swag lamp is ready for use.
Tags: swag hook, swag lamp, lamp cord, first swag, first swag hook
Chapter 11 of the U.S. bankruptcy code provides a path for an individual or organization filing for bankruptcy protection to declare a plan to pay back outstanding debts over time and to continue operations.
History
Chapter 11 emerged out of reforms to bankruptcy law in the midst of the Great Depression. After a Congressional investigation of bankruptcy, President Roosevelt signed the Bankruptcy Reform Act in 1934, which sought to enable "amicable" solutions to conflicts between debtors and creditors and allow for the gradual repayment of debt. Later amendments to this bill merged several chapters of the bankruptcy code into one, Chapter 11, that deals with corporate reorganization.
Chapter 11 Plan
Chapter 11 allows a debtor to continue normal operations and restructure a business under the condition that the debtor develop and implement a "bankruptcy plan." This formal blueprint outlines the process by which a debtor pays back creditors and emerges from bankruptcy. A bankruptcy court must approve this plan. Creditors may express objections to a bankruptcy plan and may vote on whether or not to approve a proposed plan.
Continuing Operations
Under Chapter 11, a debtor generally remains in control of assets and continues to operate a business normally. Although creditors assume partial ownership of the new business, Chapter 11 designates the debtor as a fiduciary for the creditors and the trustee responsible for the business. Chapter 11 debtors may attain financing, sell off assets and restructure debts in order to pay back creditors.
Who Can Declare Chapter 11
Large corporations most commonly use Chapter 11 bankruptcy, since Chapter 11 allows debtors to restructure debt without stipulating a debt ceiling. Individuals occasionally file under Chapter 11 but more use Chapter 7 or 13. Chapter 11 stipulates that an entity may not file under Chapter 11 if it filed another bankruptcy petition that was denied by a court as a result of lack of compliance during the preceding 180 days. An individual filing under Chapter 11 must receive credit counseling within 180 days before filing.
Disadvantages
The too-lax Chapter 11 doesn't provide the right incentives to debtors to restructure their debt properly, according to Michael Bradley and Michael Rosenzweig in their article "The Untenable Case for Chapter 11" ("The Yale Law Journal," Mar. 1992). They argue that most companies are ultimately unable to pay off creditors and become profitable.
Advantages
Those in favor of the title claim, including Elizabeth Warren and Jay Westbrook in "The Success of Chapter 11" ("Michigan Law Review," Feb. 2009), argue that many companies are able to emerge successfully from a Chapter 11 bankruptcy, and that those that aren't are usually eliminated and shut down quickly. Chapter 11 provides a way for fledgling businesses to continue operating while paying off their debts.
Tags: Chapter allows, under Chapter, allows debtors, argue that, back creditors, bankruptcy code
The way you wire the Hampton Bay ceiling fan will depend on the type of fan you purchase. A standard ceiling fan is wired differently from a ceiling fan with a remote control. When you hook up the fan, ensure you match the wires correctly to the house wiring, or the fan will not work correctly. Before doing any electrical work, always turn off the power to the outlet box where you'll install the fan.
Standard Ceiling Fan
The standard Hampton Bay ceiling fan without a remote control has a straightforward wiring diagram. The black wire on the fan is the fan-supply wire, and the blue wire is the light-supply line. The black and blue wires on the fan are twisted together with the black wire from the house wiring. The white wire is twisted together with the white house wire, and the green wire coming from the fan is twisted together with the green conductor house wire.
Remote-Control Ceiling Fan
A Hampton Bay ceiling fan with a remote control has a receiver inline. The blue wire from the fan is twisted together with the blue wire on the receiver. The black wire on the fan is twisted together with the black wire on the receiver. Lastly, the white wire from the fan is twisted together with the white wire on the receiver. After securing the wire connections with the wire nuts, secure the nuts with black electrical tape.
The next step is to twist the black and blue wires from the receiver together with the black house wire. Twist the white wire from the receiver together with the white house wire. Twist the green ground wire from the fan together with the green grounding conductor house wire. Secure each set of wires with a wire nut, and cover the nuts with black electrical tape.
Hiding the Wires
After securing the wires with the wire nuts and taping the nuts with black electrical tape, you must separate and hide the wires in the outlet box. Move the white and green wires to one side of the box, and move the blue and black wire to the other side of the outlet box. Push the wires up into the box. After securing the wires so they won't get pinched, secure the canopy and canopy ring to the mounting bracket.
After the Installation
Once the Hampton Bay ceiling fan has been installed, turn on the power. Test the fan by turning it on. If the fan doesn't have any power, check the circuit breaker to ensure it's on. If the power is on, but the fan doesn't turn on, turn off the power and recheck the wire connections. If any wire isn't making a good connection to the receiver (remote-control fan) or with the house wiring on both types of fans, the fans won't have direct current to power the fan.
Tags: together with, twisted together, twisted together with, with black, black wire, house wire, wire from
Vintage and antique lighting fixtures can add character and personality to any home and may be critical if you are aiming for a true period look. You can find antique lighting fixtures of all sorts at antique shops, flea markets and architectural salvage stores. However, you do have to know what you are looking for and identify antique lighting fixtures. Each common period for antique lighting has its own characteristics and there are clues as to whether a piece is a true antique or a recent reproduction.
Instructions
1. Understand the basic components of an antique lighting fixture, as well as the types. You will see sconces, chandeliers and hanging lights of various sorts. Antique lights can be gas or electric and may, in rare cases, even be a combination of the two. Shades for gas lights were glass and can be cut glass, painted glass or acid-etched glass. Antique light fixtures have metal hardware, but the finishes can vary.
2. Look for wiring in the antique light fixture. If the fixture is not wired for electricity, it is a gas light. Gas lights were used in the 19th century and were rarely manufactured after 1900. Some chandeliers combined gas and electric and can be dated to the period between 1890 and 1900. Electric wiring, unless it has been added later, dates the fixture to after 1890.
3. Use a soft cloth to wipe and gently polish the metal to accurately assess the finish on the antique fixture. Antique lighting fixtures will, on the whole, be constructed of metal of one sort or another. Brightly polished brass was uncommon in the 19th century, so be aware that this may be a sign of a piece that is not original or has lost its original finish. Oxidized metal finishes are typically original to antique light fixtures, as are painted finishes on metal designed to look like pewter, silver or gold. Wrought iron is common in Spanish Revival and Art Nouveau light fixtures.
4. Study the stylistic features of the light fixture. Antique light fixtures can be quite simple or quite elaborate, but style may give you some clues as to the date of your antique light fixture. While you may occasionally come across early gas lights, the most common fixtures you will see will date to the late 19th and early 20th century. Styles in this period can be square and simple, like those from the Arts and Crafts movement and bungalow styles or much more elaborate, like Tudor Revival and Art Nouveau.
5. Check for a company or maker's mark. While these are not necessarily common on light fixtures, it can help provide you with more information, including when and where the antique light fixture was manufactured.
KEF manufactures a high-end speaker line that ranges from the $140,000 aluminum Muon speakers to more basic, small surrounds. KEF is known for its Uni-Q technology, which sets the tweeter inside the mid-range driver, resulting in a larger sweet spot. This means KEF speakers are less reliant upon perfect placement and are easier to set-up for the user. However, if you've never installed speakers in your home, you may be unsure do it. Here's get it right.
Instructions
1. Determine placement. Though most KEF speakers are less reliant on placement than others, you'll still want to follow standard set-up procedures. The two front speakers should be 6 to 10 feet from each other and equidistant from the listening position. The distance to the listening position should be at least as far as the speakers are from each other, if not slightly greater. Avoid placing speakers near a corner or sidewall when you can, and keep them a foot or two away from the back wall. For surround systems, place the front center speaker directly in between the left and right speaker aimed straight out at the listener, keeping it as close to the television screen as possible. The rear surrounds should be several feet behind the listener and aligned with the front speakers.
2. Angle the speakers. Unlike the majority of speakers, KEF speakers do not require you angle them directly at the listening position. They can be directed straight out with little or no angle. However, you may experience sharper, crisper sound if you angle them at the listening position. Experiment and find your preferred angle.
3. With placement set, make sure each speaker is level and stable. Use carpet spikes, speaker stands or speaker feet--depending on your specific model--and make sure the speaker doesn't have any movement. Adjust the speakers as needed to maximize stability.
4. Measure your speaker wire. Run a string to each speaker along the route you intend to run the speaker cable. Measure the length of the string.
5. With your measurements, cut speaker cable for each of your KEF speakers. Strip each strand on both ends so that you have about 3/4 of an inch of wire sticking out of the plastic casing. Wind the individual strands so that they form a tight, cohesive wire end that doesn't allow stray strands to stick out.
6. Connect each speaker to the receiver or amplifier. You can use banana plugs, spade connectors or simply insert the wire directly into the speaker terminals. Standard KEF speakers use binding posts which you unscrew, insert the speaker wire into the hole and tighten down for a secure fit. Be sure strands of opposite polarities are not sticking out and touching each other. If needed, cut the wire so that it doesn't stick out. Connect the other end of each cable to the speaker output on your receiver or amplifier for the specific speaker. Be sure that terminals of the same polarity are connected from receiver to speaker.
7. You can do bi-wire or tri-wire or you can use bridges. Most KEF speakers come with two or three sets of connection terminals, allowing you to bi- or tri-wire. Bi- or tri-wiring can provide superior audio. In order to connect speakers this way, you'll use separate speaker cables connected into the same speaker outputs on your receiver/amplifier, but run into separate terminals of the same polarity on the speaker. For instance, to bi-wire your right speaker, connect two separate speaker cables into the positive and negative outputs on your receiver. Run one positive end to the terminal marked high positive (HF +) and the other end to the terminal marked low positive (LF +). Do the same for the negative ends and repeat for the other speaker(s). If you do not wish to bi-wire, use the included metal bridges to connect the terminals of same polarities on each speaker.
Tags: each speaker, listening position, each other, receiver amplifier, right speaker, terminals same
Installing curtains in your home is one of the best ways to personalize your living space. In addition to being decorative and attractive, curtains can block or soften the light from the outside, reduce the amount of noise in a room by muffling sound, provide privacy, and absorb some of the cold coming in from the windows in the cooler months of the year. Depending on your aesthetic sense and the function of your room, the length of curtain that you want may vary, but it is easy to determine what length of curtain is the best fit for your needs.
Instructions
Formal Curtains
1. Determine whether you want curtains to extend from ceiling to floor, or from the top of the window to the floor.
2. For ceiling to floor curtains, measure the distance between the ceiling and the floor, then subtract about 1/2 an inch so the curtain does not drag on the ground (unless that is the desired effect - see Tips).
3. For window to floor curtains, follow the same procedure as Step 1, but begin measuring at the top of the window frame, or "rod" rather than the ceiling.
4. To determine how wide your curtains should be, measure across the width of your windows. Your curtain width should generally be about twice the width of your window so that the material can fold and gather.
For Casual Curtains
5. For shorter curtains, measure the distance between the ceiling and the window sill, or the ceiling and the base of the window frame.
6. For even shorter the distance between the rod and the sill or the base of the window frame.
7. To determine how wide your curtains should be, measure the width of your window. Again, the curtain width should be greater than the window width to allow for folds and gathering.
Ceiling tiles are a fresh addition to any room that needs a lift. They are easy to install, and also absorb as much as 70 percent of the excess noise in a room. Because installation can be done by the homeowner with a few simple tools, they are also very easy on the budget.
Instructions
Cutting Ceiling Tiles
1. Measuring tape
Measure the area where you will be placing a tile on the ceiling. Subtract 1/8 inch from your measurements to ensure an easy fit.
2. Mark the measurements on the back side of the uncut ceiling tile with a pencil.
3. Lay the marked tile on a solid surface that is safe for cutting. Align the straight edge with your pencil line on the finished side of the ceiling tile.
4. Press the straight edge firmly on the tile. Using the utility knife score along the using the straight edge as a guide.
5. Grasping both sides of the tile close to the scored marks, gently snap the tile along the line.
Tags: straight edge, ceiling tile, Ceiling tiles, pencil line
Young children need a place of their own where they can play and use their imagination. Create a whimsical playroom that they will surely love.
Instructions
1. Paint the walls a pale flat yellow paint. Do a couple or more coats if the original paint on the wall is dark. A primer will come in handy in super dark to lessen the number of coats saving you time and money. Wait for the paint to dry.
2. Buy picket fences from a hardware or home improvement store. Some of them come in pre-painted in white and some come in unfinished. If you buy unfinished picket fences paint them in white semi-gloss paint. Buy enough to go around the room. Make sure to smooth the edges using sand papers to avoid splinter cuts. Install the picket fences on all four walls by first using nail glue to hold them and then use hammer and nail or nail gun to secure them on the walls. Make sure to cut-out areas for wall sockets.
3. Draw or stencil assorted garden flowers right above he picket fences. Make sure to use different colors. Draw or stencil bugs, bumblebees, birds, caterpillars and butterflies.
4. Add balloon shade made of striped fabric. You can also just buy a ready-made balloon valance topper to be hung above the window.
5. Install a ceiling fan with light fixtures. This will serve as light during the night and double duty as a fan during warm days. Buy a fan that will go with your garden theme. A plain fan white fan will also work better than those stainless steel or commercial type fans.
6. Add furnishings made for young kids. You can buy ready-to-assemble wood furnishings or build them yourself by using plywood or MDF (medium density fiberboard). Build a bookshelf in a shape of a house. Make this as low as possible for young children to reach. Paint it in white color. Paint the roof of the bookshelf in light green color to go along with the garden theme room. Add decorative bugs and flowers on the bookshelf.
Add a small desk and four small chairs for children to play on. Add an area rug under it to catch dirt, pieces of playdough or watercolors. The rug can also keep the little feet warm during colder days.
7. Add accessories. The best accessories to use are toys that your children love to play with. Hung on a corner next to a window a stuff toy sitting on a decorative swing hung from the ceiling using Manila rope. Hang it high enough so that kids cannot reach it.
Add plastic flower pots with plastic or silk flowers. Put box organizers on the bookshelves to keep small toys and help in the clean up and organization. Display books that your children would love to read during story time. Add letters on the walls to spell the word GROW for a little creativity and artistic touch. You can also spell out your children's names to add personalization.
8. Add a CD player to play some of your children's favorite songs. This will encourage them to sing-along as they play giving it a happier atmosphere.
Tags: picket fences, your children, Make sure, Children Playroom, Draw stencil, garden theme, original paint
Hampton Bay ceiling fans, which are sold only at Home Depot, are available as indoor or outdoor models. The fans typically have three or four blades, as well as light features. As of October 2011, Home Depot carried almost 200 Hampton Bay products online. The fans are also available in Home Depot stores.
Warranty
Hampton Bay fans are made in China for Home Depot and come with a lifetime warranty on the motor. If you have a problem with your fan, you can return it to your nearest for repair or replacement. Of course, the warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, or problems unrelated to the motor. Parts are available online if you opt to repair a malfunctioning fan yourself.
Cost
Hampton Bay fans range in price from under $50 to over $300, as of 2011. This difference in price is associated mainly with the size, quality and design of the fan. Other factors that influence price include special features, such as a remote control device for the fan.
Function and Style
Hampton Bay fans are known for silent, efficient operation. Most have a control that reverses the flow of air to send warm air downward during cold weather. Installation is fairly simple and the fans have two installation options -- one for flat ceilings and one for vaulted or sloped ceilings. The fans come in several sizes and modern or traditional styles. Blades may have painted, metal or wood finishes.
Consumer Reviews
Consumer reviews for Hampton Bay fans are largely favorable, regardless of the price or style of the fan. Consumers appreciate the fans' looks, quiet operation, and ease of installation. A few consumers noted problems with inoperable lights after a few months of service, but overall reviews are positive.
Klipsch is a quality name in stereo and home theater speakers. If you just purchased a Klipsch home theater speaker set-up and aren't sure install each speaker, there's no need to worry. Setting up Klipsch speakers requires a tape measure and some simple steps.
Instructions
1. Decide where your front Klipsch speakers will go. Klipsch recommends spacing the front speakers six to 15 feet apart. Keep them at least two feet from the back and side walls. Each speaker should be the same distance from the TV and the chair or couch that you'll be sitting in. Ideally, keep the listening position within one to one and half times the distance between the front speakers.
2. Place the front speakers roughly even with the television and angle the speakers at the listening position.
3. Place your center channel speaker as close to the TV screen as you can, either on top or underneath. It should be aimed directly out at the listening position and directly between the two front speakers. Use the levelling foot on the bottom of the speaker to level it and keep it angled at the listener.
4. Place the rear speakers directly behind the . When mounting them on walls, they should be five to seven feet high.
5. Measure out the distances to each speaker in your system along the path that you plan to mount the wire. Cut the speaker cable to size for each speaker.
6. Split the ends of each cable into the two strands. Strip about a half inch of wire from each strand. Twist each wire so that the little strands form one solid wire.
7. Find the appropriate output on your receiver or amplifier for the speaker that you're connecting. Insert one strand of speaker wire into the red positive output and the other into the black negative. Connect the positive end of the cable to the positive speaker terminal and the negative end to the negative terminal.
8. Repeat step 7 for all speakers in your Klipsch system.
9. Set the size of your speakers using the menu of your receiver and test out the new system.
Tags: front speakers, listening position, each speaker, between front, between front speakers
Sherwin-Williams is a go-to paint store for many homeowners because of the wide range of paints and supplies that they offer. When you are thinking about repainting a room, it may feel difficult to decide on a color palette that you think will work in the space. Aside from the wide range of paint shades to choose from, Sherwin-Williams offers plenty of color ideas and the use of selection tools to help you find the best paint for your room.
Instructions
1. Look around the room for color inspiration when deciding paint the space. The paint color you choose should complement permanent items in the room, including flooring, wooden or stone accents, and any furniture pieces.
2. Upload a photo of the room you want to paint to the Sherwin-Williams color visualizer found on its website. This tool allows you to virtually paint your room with any color the store offers, ensuring that you get an idea of what looks good in the space. The tool also offers lighter and darker versions of your paint selection so that you find the best shade for your walls, trim or ceiling.
3. Choose an appropriate paint sheen depending on the room type. Flat or matte paint disguises any blemishes within the room due to its lack of sheen, making it ideal for walls. Satin sheen has minimal gloss and is ideal for trim or rooms that are prone to needing regular cleaning, like a bathroom or kitchen. Gloss sheen is glossier than satin, and can be used for doors or trim. High gloss is shiny and adds richness to the room; due to its high reflectivity, however, it is best be used on trim or entry doors. Gloss and high gloss tend to show imperfections more than flat or satin sheens.
4. Create color contrast in the room for architectural interest. Paint trim with a contrasting Sherwin-Williams paint than what's on the walls or paint one focal wall in the room a different color than the other three. Alternatively, you can use one shade of paint to add horizontal stripes across the wall and an additional shade one level up or down the color scale to create complementing stripes.
5. Apply paint to the room using the proper tools and materials. Use paintbrushes for accent trim or painting freehand near doors or windows. For walls, use a roller to cover large areas; purchase an extension rod if you have high ceilings or hard-to-reach areas. Cover flooring with a drop cloth to protect it from paint splatters and use painter's tape to cover areas that don't need to be painted.
6. Enhance the look and feel of a room by choosing a decorative Sherwin-Williams paint finish. For example, you can create a textured, smooth or high-polish fresco finish in a dining, library or family room for an Old World look. Paint shades with reflective finishes give your bedroom or bathroom a metallic look, while the Quartz Stone Impressions uses shimmering flecks within the paint to add subtle sparkle to kitchen or dining walls. Alternatively, you can add a handcrafted look to your walls with the Artisan Impressions finishing techniques.
Tags: , paint your, paint your room, Sherwin-Williams paint, wide range
The ceiling is a logical place to mount speakers for a home entertainment center.
It is probably safe to say that the least-crowded place in any room is the ceiling area. This is especially true of the room containing a home entertainment center, with its chairs, sofas, cabinets, digital gadgets and tangle of wires. Not only is the unclaimed ceiling territory a practical location for speakers, but it can also result in the presentation of a full sound that is unimpeded by objects in the room.
Instructions
1. Place a speaker face down on paper. Trace the outline of the speaker onto paper. Remove the speaker. Draw a second speaker-shaped pattern inside the first outline, about 1 to 2 inches smaller than the outline. Cut out the smaller pattern.
2. Locate a suitable ceiling location for the speaker by hammering a small nail into the ceiling to make certain no ceiling joists are in the way. Mark the speaker position onto the ceiling by tracing around the paper pattern.
3. Cut out the speaker hole in the ceiling using a drywall saw or utility knife. Insert a stiff wire into the hole and push it all the way toward the closest wall. Drill a 1-inch or smaller hole in the ceiling, near the wall, as close beneath the wire as possible. Remove the wire.
4. Bend a hook or loop in the end of the wire, using pliers. Place the end of the speaker wire into the hook or loop. Feed the speaker wire into the speaker hole, through the ceiling, and to the hole near the wall, using the stiff wire with the hook or loop. Pull the wire out of the loop or hook and down through the hole near the wall, using another wire hook or needlenose pliers. Pull enough wire through that hole to reach the receiver or television. Remove the stiff wire from the ceiling.
5. Staple the speaker wire to the wall, following the corners where the wall meets the ceilin and where two walls meet. Attach the wire to the receiver or television according to the speaker instructions.
6. Cut any extra wire at the speaker hole, leaving 12 to 16 inches of excess wire. Attach the wires to the speaker according to the speaker instructions.
7. Attach the speaker to the ceiling using drywall screws. Press the speaker cover into position.
8. Fill the hole you drilled with plaster joint compound. Allow the plaster to dry overnight. Paint the plaster with touch-up paint.
9. Repeat steps with all speakers.
Tags: hook loop, near wall, speaker hole, speaker wire, stiff wire, wire into
Hanging ceilings go by a variety of names, including drop ceilings or suspended ceilings, and these ceilings can offer a variety of advantages. The tiles are suspended or hanging from a metal grid that is attached to the roof structure. The space between the roof and ceiling tiles provides easier soundproofing and fire-resistant properties than traditional ceilings. If you have decided that hanging ceilings are for you, most ceiling companies will offer professional installation. However, experienced do-it-yourselfers may try to perform the task.
Instructions
1. Measure from the current roof structure down the wall 4 inches; this is the minimum distance required between the ceiling and the hanging tiles. If you intend to use recessed lighting, measure at least 6 inches.
2. Trace a line around all walls at the 4 inch mark. Use a level to make sure your lines are straight; you will install a piece of the ceiling grid along this line.
3. Locate the studs along the perimeter line with a stud finder; mark these with a pencil. These will be the spots for nails that will hold your molding in place.
4. Nail in place on all four walls. Line up the top of the molding with your perimeter line and be sure to put nails into the studs. Put molding to the end of the wall and butt it to the molding on the next wall.
5. Stretch string at the perimeter length, along the ceiling joists. Starting at one wall and perpendicular to the joists, measure 4 feet from the wall and hang a string perpendicular to the joists; this is the location for your main tee installation. Continue to measure and mark every 4 feet for a main tee. This string grid will help you visualize the location of your parts.
6. Cut suspension wire 12 inches longer than the distance between the ceiling and the guide wires you just hung. Attach a suspension wire to the ceiling with eye hooks; drill in the hook and then wrap the wire at least three times around to secure it. Install an eye hook and suspension wire every four feet along the main tee lines.
7. Attach runners for the main tees. Line up the first runner with the perimeter molding and attach it to the first suspension wire in its path. You will see small holes along the runner; attach the suspension wire through these holes, wrapping at least three times for security.
8. Continue to install runners all along the main tee lines. If the runners are not long enough to reach the far side of the room, join them together by the slots and tabs on their ends. If you need to join runners together, install an additional suspension wire to support the joint. If runners are too long, clip them off with tin snips.
9. Install cross tee runners by sliding them into the locking slots on the main tee runners; follow exact manufacturer's instructions for this connection, as the location of the locking slots can vary depending on the product. Install all cross tees, generally 2 feet apart.
10. Cut smaller pieces of runners to join any short runners to the perimeter molding. This is only done if there are small gaps between the runners and molding; this may not apply to every project. Fit the small pieces into place between the main runners and molding; install more suspension wire at these pieces to support them.
11. Install the hanging ceiling tiles or panels by pushing them through the gaps in the grid at an angle and then allowing them to drop into place. If necessary, cut panels with a utility knife to fit in smaller gaps or to work about any fixtures (such as heating ducts). Install all panels to complete the project.
Tags: suspension wire, perimeter molding, along main, , between ceiling, ceiling tiles, Install cross
A noisy ceiling fan can be a distraction, but there are ways to reduce noise in your bathroom ceiling fan. Although these fans are efficient at circulating air, they can sometimes wobble because screws loosen over a period of time. However, you will be able to repair your ceiling fan yourself.
Instructions
1. Turn the fan off and check to see if the fan's canopy touches the ceiling. If it does, it must be adjusted. Tighten screws in the motor housing, as well as those holding the fan blade bracket to the motor hub.
2. Tighten screws that hold the globe and light fixture, if your ceiling fan has lights attached to it. You should check your ceiling fan after completing each step to see if it continues to generate a loud noise.
3. Install the silencer band over the neck of the fan globe and tighten screws in the lamp holder.
4. Turn the fan on and take note of any other problems. Keep your fan clear of dust and other debris, and check to see if something is blocking your fan's blades.
A cross grid suspension ceiling uses easily removable panels for temporary access to areas above the ceiling. If your actual ceiling is unattractive and the cost of refurbishing it is high, a suspension ceiling can hide it. In addition, if you want to run wiring or ducts across the ceiling, the suspension ceiling conceals that while giving you access to effect repairs. If you are in the market for an estimate, or are doing the job yourself, the first step is to estimate the area for bid and material purchase purposes.
Instructions
1. Measure the length of the room (or first room). You don't have to measure at ceiling height, but do make sure to measure wall to wall, ignoring things that come out from the walls like cabinets or counters.
2. Measure the width of the room. Use the same measuring technique.
3. Multiply the length and width. For a room that's 19 feet long and 22 feet wide, that's 418 square feet.
4. Repeat this for areas where the cross will be installed.
5. Sum the areas measured.
6. Add 10 percent to the area sum, if you're purchasing materials. This accounts for waste during the installation.
Choose a light fixture that fits in the space in your bathroom and goes with the style of the room.
Every bathroom requires lighting, but you must choose the right kind of light fixture for each specific bathroom. Whether you are designing a new bathroom or remodeling an old one, choose a light that fits the space available and matches the color and style of the bathroom. When installing the ceiling light, have an assistant with you to help hold the light up while you are attaching the wiring. Take your time with the project, since there is an element of danger to working with electrical wiring.
Instructions
1. Shut off the power to the bathroom at the breaker box and remove the screws in the old light fixture's cap piece that touches the ceiling. Undo the screws that connect the light fixture's crossbar to the electrical box in the ceiling and lower the old fixture from the ceiling.
2. Use a noncontact voltage meter over each wire in the electrical box to ensure all electricity to the bathroom has been shut off. Twist the wire nuts counterclockwise to remove them, then remove the old fixture completely.
3. Turn the electricity to the bathroom back on at the breaker box and use the noncontact voltage meter to make sure there is electricity going to the colored or hot wire in the electrical box. Touch both the hot wire and the metal box or the ground wire with the leads of a neon voltage tester. If the light on the tester illuminates, you can proceed with installing the light; otherwise, call a licensed electrician to install a ground in the box.
4. Turn the electricity to the bathroom off at the breaker box and attach the mounting strap to the new light's cap piece. Screw the crossbar into the holes in the electrical box, securing it to the ceiling.
5. Twist the neutral wires from the box and together using a wire nut, and attach the hot wires together using another wire nut. Twist the ground wire around the box's grounding screw clockwise several times.
6. Tuck the wires into the electrical box, then attach the light fixture's cap piece to the ceiling, using screws. Install any covers and bulbs needed in the new light fixture, then turn the electricity to the bathroom back on at the breaker box.
Tags: light fixture, electricity bathroom, back breaker, bathroom back, bathroom back breaker,
Reveal attractive ceiling tile by removing the caked-on paint.
Antique tile adds drama and interest to an otherwise ignored and overlooked part of your home: the ceiling. After enduring years of different owners and different design styles, your ceiling tiles may be caked with paint and dirt. Reveal the original look by removing the old paint and giving the tiles a good cleaning. All eyes will be turned toward your ceilings in no time.
Instructions
1. Place a tall ladder under the tiles so you will be able to reach the ceiling comfortably. Cover the floors with plastic sheeting to protect from dripping chemicals.
2. Dip an old paintbrush into the chemical paint stripper. Brush on a thick coat of the stripper and let it sit on the tiles for 15 to 20 minutes. A non-methylene paint stripper will be less noxious and safe to use indoors.
3. Test a portion of the tile to determine if the paint has softened. Scrape gently with the paint scraper. The paint will come up easily when the paint stripper has softened it enough. If the paint is not soft, wait an additional 10 minutes.
4. Work the tip of the scraper under the paint and push away from you to remove the paint in long strips. Remove as much paint as you can with the scraper.
5. Pour a small amount of stripper on a piece of 0000 steel wool. Rub the tiles with the steel wool in a circular motion to remove any remaining paint.
6. Dip a sponge into clean water and squeeze out most of the moisture. Wipe away the chemical residue from the tiles.
7. Dip a scrub brush into lacquer thinner. Scrub the tiles to remove dirt and residue.
8. Dip a soft rag into metal polish and rub the surface until you have removed all of the tarnish. Buff with a soft cloth to bring out the shine.
Usury is the practice of lending money and charging the borrower interest at exorbitantly high, and even illegal, rates. Personal and business loans are scrutinized for usury, but charge cards are exempt from usury laws on a national basis, and are only governed by state laws.
History
The 1978 Supreme Court decision, Marquette National Bank v. First of Omaha Service Corporation, decided that national banks such as Bank of America or Citibank may charge the highest allowed in the home state of . This interest rate is allowed to be charged to individual consumers no matter which state they live in. That means that credit card issuers that have a home base in states that have high usury or non-existent usury ceilings may charge those rates to customers everywhere. Therefore, many of these national banks have their credit card issuing arms headquartered in states like Delaware or South Dakota, where the usury limit is very high.
Further Laws
Section 521 of the Depository Institutions Deregulation and Monetary Control Act of 1980 (DIDMCA) gave state banks the same power to charge the state's interest rates to out-of-state customers. This applied to all federally-insured banks, including state-chartered ones.
After passage of the DIDMCA, state legislatures across the country passed laws that allowed them to charge whatever rates out-of-state banks were allowed to charge. This was reinforced in 1999, when President Clinton signed the Gramm-Leach-Bliley Act into law. One part of this act stated that a bank in Arkansas had the right to charge the same interest rate of an out-of-state bank that had a branch in Arkansas, even though at the time the interest rate was usurious in Arkansas.
Significance
Now that the mortgage crisis has come into being, lenders claim it is just the tip of the iceberg and that signs point toward credit cards being the next crisis on hand. Bank of America, J.P. Morgan Chase and Capital One expect a 20 percent increase in credit card losses in the short to midterm future.
Resons for Raising Interest Rates
Banks have sophisticated software and are able to track a customer's transactions. Lack of activity or heavy usage points to those customers represent easy marks for an interest increase. The bank can also ascertain whether a customer is using a lower-interest card for transactions, suggesting that the consumer may be strapped for money, but indicating that they still need line with that bank; another reason to increase rates.
Universal Default
Universal default is when a credit card company raises its rates on their consumer's card because that customer has on another company's card. The reasoning behind this is that the customer is not so credit worthy if he has been late on his payment to anyone.
Theories/Speculation
Fox Business reports that many credit card companies say that with the current weak economy and high unemployment rates, many people are unable to pay their credit card bills, leading to greater losses and, therefore, justifying higher interest rates.
Many of these companies received federal tax dollars for a bailout and are now charging the same taxpayers exorbitant interest rates. Unfortunately, with the history of government decisions on credit card interest, usury laws are almost non-existent.
Tags: credit card, interest rate, interest rates, that bank, their credit, Bank America, been late
The ceiling in your bathroom can get damaged from leaking pipes or other sources of excess moisture. This can occasionally result in discolored and warped ceiling paint. You can restore and paint your bathroom ceiling and make it look as good as new. Make sure you call a plumber to identify the source of the ceiling damage before you begin repairs. Once the problem is repaired by a professional, you can tackle the rest of the project yourself.
Instructions
1. Cover the cabinets and floors with a drop cloth. Wear goggles, a mask and a hair net to protect your face, eyes and hair from paint splatter and debris.
2. Scrape off loose and peeling paint with a metal scraper. Lightly sand the ceiling with medium-grit sandpaper.
3. Scrub any discolored areas with a mild detergent. Detergent will remove any unseen mold and prevent future mold growth. Let the ceiling dry completely.
4. Spray ceiling texture spray onto any areas that are missing texture. Apply a texture that matches the texture on the rest of the ceiling. Use a steady back-and -forth motion to apply the texture. Overlap each pass of the spray can. Add texture until the damaged part of the ceiling matches the rest.
5. Roll a medium-nap roller through the primer. Apply the primer in a thin, even coat. Let the first coat dry. Roll on coats of primer until you have completely covered any stains. Let the primer dry for four hours.
6. Paint the edges that the roller won't reach with a trim brush. Prepare for painting the entire ceiling, both the damaged and undamaged areas. Painting only the center will result in mismatched paint and may draw attention to the repair.
7. Paint the a medium nap roller. Choose a flat, interior latex paint. Flat paints will blend different textures better than higher gloss paints. Roll on the paint in a straight line, overlapping each pass of the roller slightly. Let the paint dry and apply a second coat.
Fluorescent lighting is a common choice for many homeowner workshops as it provides bright and even lighting for projects. Available from a variety of manufacturers, fluorescent lights typically feature an elongated metal or plastic housing that encases the ballast and holds one or more fluorescent light bulb tubes in place. A cord extends from the housing for connection to a power supply and chains can attach the fixture to the ceiling and hold it in place.
Instructions
1. Locate a position on the ceiling of a garage, shop or other area where you are installing the fluorescent light. Hold the fluorescent fixture up to the ceiling and mark points on the ceiling for installing hooks. Mark the installation points on the ceiling to match the points where chains will connect to the fixture.
2. Determine if you can use ceiling joists for installing the screw-in hooks for mounting the fluorescent fixture. Drill a hole for installing a screw-in anchor if a joist is not available. Choose a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screw-in hook and drill a pilot hole. Insert the screw-in anchor with a screwdriver.
3. Install a screw-in hook by turning it into the ceiling and joist or into the anchor. Use a pair of pliers to help twist the screw-in hook securely in place if necessary.
4. Insert one or more fluorescent tubes, based on the design, into the light fixture. Attach mounting chains to the light fixture so you can hang it from the ceiling.
5. Determine the length that the fluorescent fixture should hang down from the ceiling, and adjust the chain length. Hang the chains securely on the hooks.
6. Connect the fluorescent light to a nearby power outlet, extension cord or shop cord based on personal preference.
Tags: fluorescent fixture, screw-in hook, , fluorescent light, Fixtures, from ceiling, Hang Fluorescent
At an average cost of $200 to $800, whole house fans are a cost effective and energy efficient way to keep a house cool. Comparing certain features will help you choose the best whole house fan for your home.
Air Change
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, fans should change the air in a home 30 to 60 times per hour. The air change requirements vary in different climates. It is best to consult a professional to determine the best air change rate for your particular climate.
Size
Whole house fans are sized in cubic feet per minute (cfm) of cooling. The right size fan is important for cooling and cost efficiency. The volume of the home is multiplied by the recommended air change rate and then divided by 60 to determine the cfm.
Operating Noise
Consumer Reports recommends using a large capacity fan with two speeds that will be quieter at a low speed than a smaller fan operating at high speed. Direct drive units with the fan blades mounted directly on the motor are noisier than belt driven units, which require regular maintenance of the belt and pulley system.
Speed
Whole house fans are either single or dual speed fans. Dual speed fans provide rapid cooling at high speed and at the low speed operate quieter while maintaining the comfort level in the home.
Tags: house fans, whole house, change rate, high speed, speed fans
Squirrels easily steal bird food from unprotected feeders.
Putting food out for wild garden birds in the winter can be a waste of money. You might find a squirrel clinging to the outside of your feeder one day and realize your birds have been getting thinner, while the local squirrel population has been getting fat instead. The problem is easy to solve with some inexpensive materials and half an hour or so of your time. Homemade thwart squirrel attacks on your wild birds' food. Bird feeders mounted on posts or poles and hanging bird feeders require different style baffles, but both types are quite simple to make.
Instructions
Baffles for Posts and Poles
1. Cut a hole in your pipe caps to match the post or pole that the pipe is going to go around. Measure the sides of a square post. If it is 2 inches wide on each side, for example, you will need to cut a 2-inch square in the middle of your pipe cap. Use the ruler to find the middle of the cap and mark and cut the squares accordingly. For a pole-mounted feeder, measure the diameter of the pole and cut a circle in the middle of the pipe cap that will fit it. You can start your hole off with a drill, making a hole or holes in the cap which you can cut from, or between, with a hacksaw blade or sharp knife.
2. Secure the pipe cap onto the pipe with some waterproof adhesive tape.
3. Place a hose clip onto a pole, or a couple of galvanized steel nails in a post, at a height of 4 ft., ideally. This is to support the baffle so that it doesn't fall. The baffles will still wobble, however, causing a further obstacle to the squirrel in its attempted climb.
4. Slip your baffle over the top of your pole or post. Twist the baffle, if necessary, until the cap hole fits around the top of the post or pole and the baffle can slide down. Let the baffle down until it rests on its support.
5. Mount, or remount (if you had to remove it) the bird feeder, or table.
Baffles for Hanging Feeders
6. Find, or buy, a large plastic or metal funnel. Alternatively, drill a hole in the middle of a large shallow metal or plastic dish.
7. Tie a large knot in the bird feeder chain or rope approximately 6 inches above the actual feeder. Wrap or tie wire or string around the knot to enlarge it, if necessary.
8. Thread the upside down funnel, or inverted dish, down over the hanging chain or rope until it rests on the knot.
9. Hang the feeder with the funnel or bowl acting like a sloping roof that will stop squirrels from gaining purchase if they attempt to jump onto the feeder.
Tags: baffles will, been getting, bird feeder, chain rope, post pole
Designing a room can be a complicated process. You must consider the flooring and the color, and decide display the furniture. You make decisions that affect the lighting and the artwork. One section often overlooked is the ceiling. The surface of your ceiling is a blank canvas waiting for a creative touch. Ceiling coverings come in a variety of styles, textures and intricate formats. If you begin the process by deciding the décor of , you can plan a versatile and elegant space.
Ceiling Medallion
A medallion design consists of applying polyurethane foam roundels to the ceiling surface. This method will draw attention to the creative aspects of your ceiling. A well-positioned medallion helps focus attention on chandeliers, molding, and columns. A row of medallions can accent a long hallway or narrow space. The ceiling medallions adhere to the surface with nails. After the installation, paint the medallions with either a latex- or oil-based product. The effect of ceiling medallions can be as basic or complex as you want to make it.
Pressed-tin Panels
A pressed-tin panel ceiling will complement a room design with an old-school air. These panels offer a diverse view of textured metal and a folksy feel. While not perfect for every type of décor, they work well for older homes and loft apartments. According to This Old House, pressed-tin panels usually come in 2-by-4-foot sheets and take some work to install. The panels weigh approximately 4 pounds each and require furring strips around the perimeter of the room. The panels attach to the strips with nails and have overlapping edges.
When planning your space, you can cover the entire surface of the ceiling or just add sections for highlighting. After installing the panels, you may choose to paint the metal with an oil-based paint. This will provide an antiquing or patina look to the tin.
Wallpaper
When looking for a versatile treatment for , wallpaper gives you many options. Most people associate wallpaper with wall decor, but the range of wallpapers available allows you to customize your ceiling to any style. A small room will appear larger with a light-colored wallpaper. Irregular ceilings can benefits from a scattered pattern. This method works best for flat, sloped or irregularly shaped ceilings.
Wallpapering a ceiling is not an easy process, however. It requires more than one person to get the job done. If you will be papering both the ceiling and the walls, it is best to tackle the ceiling first. You should overlap the walls by 1/2 inch and press the paper into the crease between the wall and the ceiling. give you a straight seam without trying to cut the ceiling paper along the edge.
Tags: your ceiling, ceiling medallions, ceiling surface, This method, This will
Acoustic ceiling panels are square tiles consisting of various materials and designs that serve to absorb sound in a room. These tiles are most often located in noisy public areas and office buildings, but work well in residential homes as well. While some acoustic panels have a support structure, others simply glue to the ceiling. Gluing the ceiling panels on yourself is not complex, but is awkward since you must work at ceiling height.
Instructions
1. Position a ladder in one corner of the room where you will start installing the acoustic .
2. Cut off a 1/4-inch section from the end of a tube of acoustical surfaces adhesive. Insert the tube into a caulking gun to aid in application.
3. Turn one of the over, with the finished side facing down. Examine the back of the panel for an arrow, which indicates the panel has a pattern on it. If arrows are present, ensure they all point in the same direction when you install the panels.
4. Squeeze the trigger of the caulking gun to apply a 1/4-inch-wide bead of caulk around the perimeter of the panel. Create an "X" of adhesive in the center of the panel.
5. Pick up the panel carefully and carry it up the ladder. Position the panel, glue side up, in the corner of the ceiling and press it firmly with your hands to secure the adhesive to the ceiling. Hold the panel in place for 20 to 30 seconds.
6. Climb back down the ladder and apply adhesive to another ceiling panel. Climb back up the ladder, press the second panel up to the ceiling and hold it in place until it is secure.
7. Continue installing all of the remaining ceiling panels in the same way until you reach the last row.
8. Hold another ceiling panel up in the last open space to see if it fits without requiring cutting. If cutting is required, measure the installation area with a tape measure and transfer the measurement onto the back of the ceiling panel using a pencil. Cut along the pencil line using a utility knife or a table saw.
Tags: ceiling panels, ceiling panel, acoustic ceiling panels, another ceiling, another ceiling panel
Measure a dining room to find the appropriate-sized table.
A dining table should be sized both for the room it will be in and for the number of people who will typically use the table. Having a dining table that is the correct size will help the flow of traffic in the room and provide the appropriate visual weight for the space. Calculate the correct size for a dining table by taking measurements and doing some simple math.
Instructions
1. Measure the dimensions of with a tape measure. If you do not have a rigid tape measure, you will need someone else to hold the other end of the tape measure in the corner to get an accurate measurement.
2. Write down these measurements on a piece of paper. For example, your dining room may be 13 feet long and 11 feet wide.
3. Measure the depth of any pieces of furniture in your dining room that you intend to keep in place. Write these down as well. For example, you may have a sideboard that extends along most of the short wall of the dining room and is 1-foot deep.
4. Subtract the depth of stationary furnishings from the applicable room dimension to find the usable floor space of your dining room. In this example, it would be 13 feet by 10 feet.
5. Subtract 6 feet from each dimension to allow 3 feet between each side of the table and the wall behind. This space is essential for people to walk around the table and get in and out of the chairs. In our example, the table space is now reduced to 7 feet by 4 feet.
6. Subtract an additional foot from the dimension of a table if the space behind it is regularly used as a walkway. For example, if a home has a pass-through dining room where people often walk past the head of the table, subtract another foot from the table dimension to leave additional space there, reducing the table size to 6 feet by 4 feet.
7. Add up the total perimeter of the desired table size. In this example, the perimeter is 20 feet.
8. Divide the perimeter by 2 to find how many people you can fit around the table with 2 feet of space each. In this case, the table would fit a maximum of 10 people.
Tags: dining room, your dining room, your dining, dining table, feet feet, tape measure
If you've installed hanging screws or hooks into the ceiling to display hanging sculptures or plants, taking them out is simple and only takes a few moments of your time. Since you want to limit any possible damage to the ceiling when you remove the screw, you should carefully use your tools and go slowly to also prevent damaging the screw which will make it harder to remove.
Instructions
1. Place a step stool or ladder directly under the area on the ceiling that contains the hanging screw or hook. Step up onto the stool or ladder, being careful to maintain balance to prevent injury. If possible, enlist a friend to hold the ladder steady for you as you climb to the top.
2. Grasp the hook with your fingers and turn to loosen. For a screw without a hook, remove it with a screwdriver. Avoid using a power tool, which may be hard to handle on the ladder or stool; the tool also increases the risk of damaging the screw and making it harder to remove.
3. Remove the hanging screw with an extractor if it is firmly in place. Attach the extractor to a power drill and adjust so the drill goes in reverse. Stick the extractor onto the screw and power the drill to remove.
To update the look of your home, install faux ceiling beams. Real ceiling beams are part of the structural framing of a house that shows through the ceiling. Faux beams, however, do not provide any structural support and so can be made of wood boxes, Styrofoam, polyurethane or composite materials. The lighter weight of faux beams makes it easier for you to install them overhead, and you can paint them to resemble any effect desired, such as rough-hewn wood or finished, painted beams. Follow these easy instructions recommended by FauxWoodBeams.com to add interest to any room in your house.
Instructions
1. Measure the length of the ceiling where you want the beams to be and multiply by the number of beams you will install. This will give you the total length of beam material you need. Add 10 percent extra so you will have enough in case of mistakes.
2. Mark the outline on the ceiling where the beams will be. Use painters' tape to outline the installation plan on the ceiling. Detect and mark the studs within this outline.
3. Buy faux beam materials or make your own. Many outlets online and in your local area carry them. Buy pre-made, extruded Styrofoam or resin beams or get wooden planks and construct your own. To make your own, start with a wide board, such as a 2-by-6-inch plank. This will be the side of the faux beam that faces the floor. Screw two boards of equal width to each side of the plank for the sides of the beam, forming a three-sided, long box. If the butt against the wall, it is not necessary to build ends on them. If they will show, however, you must build in end pieces.
4. Make wooden mounting blocks for the beams. Measure the inside width and height of the faux beam material and cut blocks of a 2-inch depth with this width and height. Make one mounting block for every stud you marked on the ceiling within the painters' tape.
5. Mount one block on each stud you marked on the ceiling. You must position the blocks in a straight line or you cannot mount the beams properly.
6. Place the beams over the mounting blocks to make sure they fit correctly. If they do, apply PL Premium Construction Adhesive or Liquid Nails on the edges of the beam that will touch the ceiling. Place the glued beam over the wooden blocks and seal tightly against the ceiling.
7. Drive screws through the beam sides into each of the mounting blocks and countersink them slightly to hold the beams until the adhesive dries. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth.
8. Fill the screw holes with wood filler to match the beam finish and you are done.
A is a ceiling that rises, where one side is shorter than the other side and slopes up in a peak. The slope can be curved, arched or pointed. A vaulted ceiling does not necessarily use the same pitch as the roof. In older homes, most attics have vaulted ceilings, to allow for a space for someone to stand up. In newer homes, most have vaulted ceilings to provide spaciousness, giving the room a bright and airy feeling.
Dealing with the uneven sized walls due to vaulted ceilings can be a challenge to some people. Since the walls are neither square nor rectangular, oftentimes people make the common mistake of hanging several pieces of artwork to follow the slope up; however, this would look awkward in most cases if not done correctly. Others opt to leave the walls bare, due to the lack of ideas on decorate them properly.
One design idea that comes to mind is to add crown moldings. There are two ways to accomplish this; one would be to follow the slope and the other is to put the moldings lower from where the ceilings meet the wall and drawing a straight line where the moldings would go. This would allow one to hang moldings lower in a straight fashion, which can also help subdue the appearance of the vaulted ceilings. Choosing the way to hang moldings is a matter of preference; however, if there are obstructions present on the walls, such as windows, air conditioning or heating vents, you may not be able to add moldings if they are too close to the ceilings.
In a bedroom, you can take advantage of the slope to create a sleeping alcove, where the bed can lean against the shorter side of the wall. Put several wood beams on the wall, and then line them up next to each other at least two feet apart to impart the look of a huge headboard. Place a bed table with lamp on each side to anchor the look.
Another idea is to add louvered doors, curtains or shoji screens about three to four feet away from the lower side of the wall to create a much needed storage space.
In a home office, you can tuck in a long narrow desk against the wall, which becomes the work area where a computer and printer would go. Then hang a bulletin board and wall shelves on the taller side of the wall. Smaller pictures and artwork can adorn the shorter side of the wall. Place a wide and tall bookcase on the opposite side of the wall to balance the room.
Paint and Texture
Use the wall under the vaulted ceiling as an accent wall by painting it a different color to make it the focal point of the room. The room should still flow cohesively. Avoid painting it a different and bolder color than the rest of the room. This can make it look out of place, clashing with the other colors used around the house. Use a complementary color instead to make it more pleasing to the eyes. You can also paint the ceilings a paler shade of color used on the wall to make it less prominent.
Use Venetian plaster, sponge or dry brush technique to give the wall more depth and texture. Painting stripes with alternating colors, whether horizontally or vertically can give the wall a contemporary look.
Hanging Accessories and Artwork
Decorate the wall with vaulted ceilings by using a series of mirror panels with size gradually increasing in size. Space them evenly and align them next to each other. The mirror helps make the room look wider and brighter. You can also hang several pictures this way. Hang a huge tapestry or quilt on the taller part of the wall and place a potted plant on the floor in front of the shorter wall to balance the look.
Tags: side wall, vaulted ceilings, vaulted ceiling, each other, follow slope, give wall