Mount An Outdoor Light Fixture

Outdoor light fixtures have to be waterproof.

It's as important to have light outside the house as inside. It gives you the security of seeing what's happening when you hear a strange noise, and the safety of being able to find your way around when you come home late at night. It also provides atmosphere and a highlight for your garden or fountain. It isn't much more difficult to install a light outdoors than it is to install one indoors, but all the electrical connections must be waterproofed. If you have to run wires, they must be buried underground.

Instructions

1. Install a switch box on an interior wall for your outside lights. While it can be anywhere, it's best to place it near a door or window so you can see the lights go on when you turn it on to verify that they are working. Outline the back of a remodeling electrical box on the wall at the same height as the other switches in your house with a pencil, then cut around the outline with a drywall saw. Place the box in the hole, then turn the screws with a Phillips screwdriver to hook the anchors behind the box to the drywall. Tighten the screws to hold the box securely.

2. Install an electrical box. If it is going to be on the side of the house, mark the outline of the box on the siding, drill a 1/2-inch hole and cut out the outline with a jigsaw so you can install a recessed box. You can also install a waterproof surface mount box on the side of the house. If you choose this method, drill a 1/2-inch hole in the side of the house for the cable and screw the box to the siding so it is centered on the hole.

3. Drill a hole on the siding near the ground if you plan to mount the light a distance away from the house. Install a 90-degree access fitting by unscrewing the cover of the fitting, inserting it in the hole and screwing it to the siding. Install a waterproof surface mount electrical box on a secure surface at the location of the light.

4. Draw the power for the light circuit from a nearby electrical outlet. Turn off the power to the outlet, then remover the cover with a screwdriver and unscrew the outlet from the electrical box. Run a length of type NM cable, rated for interior use, between the outlet and the switch.

5. Strip sheathing from the wire with a utility knife, then strip the ends of the black and white wires with a wire stripper. Loosen the two bottom terminals on the outlet and wind the black wire around the brass one, the whiter wire around the silver one, and the bare wire around the green one. Tighten the nuts, screw the outlet back to the box and replace the cover.

6. Run a length of electrical cable from the switch to the light fixture. Use type NM cable if the electrical box is installed on the side of the house. Pull the wire through the back of the electrical box, giving yourself about 8 inches of slack to make connections.

7. Install type UF cable, rated for use outdoors, if the box is mounted a distance from the house. Pull the wire out of the wall through the access fitting, then feed it back into the 90-degree leg of the fitting and down into an 18-inch trench that goes to the fixture mount. Backfill the trench and run the cable up to the fixture, stapling it in place with wire staples.

8. Unscrew and remove one of the plugs on the bottom of the box and screw a watertight clamp into the hole with slip-lock pliers. Feed the cable through the clamp, giving yourself about 8 inches of slack. Tighten the clamp screw with a screwdriver.

9. Strip the wires at the switch box, then connect the black wire coming from the outlet to the top switch terminal, and the one going to the light to the bottom terminal. Twist the white wires together and screw on a wire cap. Twist the bare wires together, leaving the end of one longer than the other. Wind the long wire around the green ground screw and tighten it. Screw the switch to the box and screw on the cover.

10. Strip the wires in the light fixture box. Fit the rubber gasket that came with the exterior light fixture around the electrical box, then twist the black wire from the light together with the black wire from the switch and screw on a wire cap. Do the same with the white wires and the bare wires, but you can leave the bare wires uncapped. Mount the fixture to the box, using the adapter plate that came with the fixture, if there is one.

11. Turn on the power to the circuit and test the light.

Tags: black wire, side house, wire around, bare wires, light fixture, type cable

Measure The Width Of A Ceiling Fan

Ceiling fan size is easy to measure.

If you want to add a ceiling fan for your room, it's important to know what size you need. Ceiing fans are easy to mount an install and come in a wide variety of colors and styles. The larger your room, the larger your fan should be. According to Energy Star, a room of 225 to 400 square feet should have a fan 50 to 54 inches. Ceiling fans are measured by their blade span.

Instructions

1. Set up your ladder directly below the center of your ceiling fan. Have someone hold the ladder so it will be more secure.

2. Hold one end of the tape measure on the very end of one of the blades of the fan. You may need someone to hold this in place while you run the tape measure to the other side.

3. Pull the tape measure out to the blade directly across from the one you just measured. If the fan has an odd number of blades, measure from the outside tip of one blade to the center of the fan. Double the measurement to get the width of the fan.

Tags: tape measure, larger your, someone hold, your room

Restore Tin Ceilings

A tin ceiling that has been restored

Tin ceilings came into favor during the late 1800s and early 1900s. Their decorative designs mimicked those in the intricate plaster ceilings of European homes at a much more reasonable price. Tin ceilings were easy to install because they were lightweight and when installed, they covered existing cracks and stains as well as providing a fireproof layer. Tin ceilings lost popularity in the 1930s but have come full circle. New tin ceiling tiles in many patterns can be purchased today but it is possible to restore existing ones.

Instructions

1. Prepare the room. Cover the floors, counter tops and furniture with plastic sheeting or drop cloths. Protect trim and light fixtures with painter's tape. Remove portable items like art work and knick knacks.

2. Clean the tile. If the ceiling is in good shape with no peeling paint, dust it with a cotton dust mop or feather duster. Then wipe the tiles with a mild solution of dishwashing detergent and water. Rub off rust spots with steel wool, fine grit sand paper or a wire brush. Be gentle to avoid scratching. Remember that you will be working on a ladder and facing up, so wear protective goggles and a mask to keep dust and rust particles out of your eyes, nose and mouth.

3. Strip the paint. Use a commercial stripping product like Peel Away. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. When the paint has been removed, wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth and allow to dry.

4. Patch the ceiling. If you have tiles that have holes or noticeable cracks, use a product like Bondo, available at hardware and home improvement stores, to fill them. If a tile needs to be replaced in a prime location on an antique ceiling,substitute it with one from the side or a corner. Replace that tile with a newly manufactured one. The new tile will be in an inconspicuous place and once the ceiling is painted, no one will notice the difference. Or, rather than using new tiles, contact architectural salvage dealers to see if they have tiles matching your ceiling's patterns.

5. Paint the ceiling. With a good quality brush no larger than two to three inches wide, apply an oil-based primer to the tin ceiling tiles. Let the primer dry before painting the ceiling with oil-based enamel paint. Put on two coats, being sure to let the paint dry thoroughly between coats.

Tags: ceiling tiles, have tiles, product like

Instructions To Install A Tiffany Foyer Light

Tiffany often incorporated dragonflies, flowers and peacock feathers into his lamps.

Tiffany Lamps are known for being unique, ornate, colorful and beautiful. Deciding he wanted to do something unique with stained glass, Louis Tiffany started his lamp making business in the late 1800s. Handcrafting the lamps himself and incorporating colorful designs on the shades, Tiffany's business grew incredibly popular. Today his lamps are still sought after. Hanging your Tiffany lamp can be done simply and relatively quickly.

Taking Down the Old Fixture

Tiffany lamps are beautiful but can be fragile. Always handle the lamps (specifically the shades) with extreme caution as to not break or crack the glass. Before you can enjoy your Tiffany lamp, you must first remove the old light fixture in the foyer. Remove the canopy of the old fixture first by unscrewing its screws on either side of the canopy. The canopy is typically a circular, decorative "plate" that rests on top of the ceiling to cover the wires and electrical box inside the ceiling. Once you pull the canopy down, you'll have access to the crossbar and the electrical box in the ceiling. Unscrew the screws connecting the crossbar to the electrical box to remove the old fixture. Disconnect any wires from the old fixture to the electrical box. The old fixture can be placed aside or thrown away if desired.

Hanging the Tiffany Lamp

Start by "making" ground wire. Twist the end of a copper wire around a ground screw. The screw is then fed into the electrical box's threaded hole and tightened. Place the Tiffany's canopy up to the ceiling and align it with the crossbar. If you need to adjust the height of the lamp, simply use a wrench to pry open a few chains from the lamp's chain link. Screw the crossbar back into the electrical box using a screwdriver. Connect the neutral wires from the Tiffany lamp (white) to the neutral wire from the electrical box. Fold all of the wires into the electrical box so they cannot be seen coming through the ceiling. Place the canopy back up to ceiling and screw it in using the screws given with the lamp.

Staying Safe

Before starting any electrical projects, always turn the room's main power off at the circuit breaker. If the power is on, you run the risk of electrocution. You will most likely need to use a ladder for this project. If so, always have someone to work along side you. This way, they can hand you the tools you need, grab the old fixture as you pull it down and hand you the new fixture when you're ready to put it up. This will help prevent you from walking up and down the ladder with tools and large materials. That extra person can also help steady the ladder while you are working on it.

Tags: into electrical, your Tiffany lamp, crossbar electrical, Tiffany lamp, wires from, your Tiffany

Convert A Industrial Facility From Metal Halide Lights To Fluorescent Lights

Industrial facility with fluorescent lighting

Metal halide lights consist of a high intensity discharge (HID) bulb, a ballast to control the electrical supply to the bulb, and a fixture to support the other components and to shape the light beam. Fluorescent lights have, usually, two or more fluorescent tubes, a ballast for the tubes and a fixture that directs the light. When changing from one type of lighting to the other you need to replace one style of fixture with the other. Location of the fixtures and electrical loads on the lighting circuits are also things you must consider.

Instructions

1. Make a survey of the existing metal halide light fixtures. Show the location of the fixtures on a floor plan or on a reflected ceiling plan. Designate the type of each fixture on the plan by using a letter, such as A, B and so on, unless all the fixtures are of the same type. Measure the height above the floor of each fixture and record the height on the plan.

2. Make a list for each type of fixture showing the manufacturer, the model number and the wattage of the bulb. Obtain from the manufacturer the lumen output of the fixture by going online, talking to the electrical parts distributor from whom you intend to buy the replacement fluorescent fixtures or contacting a manufacturer's representative. As an example of what you want, a standard 250-watt metal halide lamp has an initial output of 20,500 lumens. Calculate the total lumen output of the existing lighting at its initial output points.

3. Find out from your supplier what the lumen outputs are for suitable fluorescent replacement fixtures. For example, the two four-foot T-8 tubes in a pendant reflector [p.5] have a total initial output of 5,900 lumens [p.3]. Divide the existing total initial lumens by the fluorescent fixture lumens number. The result will give you the number of fluorescent fixtures you will need. Note that for the fixtures in the examples you will need about 3 1/2 times more fluorescent fixtures than metal halide fixtures.

4. Use your floor plan to lay out the locations of the fluorescent fixtures so as to provide the lighting you need in your facility. Hire or use a licensed electrician to plan, calculate and document the necessary changes in the lighting circuits so that you have the information you need to pull a building permit for the lighting change work.

5. Create a bill of materials listing the fluorescent fixtures you need and purchase the fixtures after your application for the building permit has been approved. Have the wiring changes and fixture installation done by the licensed electrician.

Tags: fluorescent fixtures, initial output, metal halide, building permit, each fixture

Trim A Vaulted Ceiling

A cathedral ceiling is constructed following the slope of the roof, but a vaulted ceiling is often constructed with scissor trusses.

Vaulted ceilings date back as far as recorded history. Once gracing only the most opulent homes, churches, monasteries and palaces, vaulted ceilings are now popular additions to modest homes as well. Vaulted ceiling design is varied, ranging from simple sheet rock walls and sheet rock ceilings--both painted the same color--to open rafters with tongue and groove board ceilings to exquisitely painted designs, such as the Sistine Chapel ceiling. While few, if any, of us have the talent to match that of Michelangelo, it is still possible to have a vaulted ceiling that adds beauty and value to your home. Trim your vaulted ceiling with wallpaper murals and molding for an impressive impact.

Instructions

Plan

1. Measure dimensions of ceiling panels to be papered. Order wallpaper murals on line or from your local home decor dealer. If the mural design has a large pattern, you will need to purchase extra paper to allow for matching seams.

2. Measure for linear feet of crown molding needed. Measure the length of the vaulted ceiling where it meets each wall.

3. Count the number of angles in your vaulted ceiling. Multiple by the number of angles by 6 inches. Add this number to your linear feet measurement for crown molding. Order crown molding.

Prepare

4. Paint your vaulted ceiling and allow to dry thoroughly. Wallpaper applied directly to the sheet rock will be difficult or impossible to remove without damaging the sheet rock if you decide to change the wall paper in the future. Pour paint into your paint roller pan. Using a paint roller, roll on two coats of interior flat paint. Use your trim brush to paint the edge near the wall that cannot be painted with a roller.

5. Paint your crown molding. Lay molding out on saw horses or other supports and apply a coat of primer paint and two coats of interior trim paint.

6. Check the angle of the corner where you will begin wallpapering. Walls are seldom perfectly square. You will need this information to make certain that you begin your wall paper on a plumb, or straight, line.

Install Wallpaper

7. Follow manufacturer's instructions for wallpaper installation. Measure the length of ceiling to be papered. Add 3 inches to this measurement and cut. Lay this piece of wallpaper flat on the floor. Roll out another length of wallpaper, matching the pattern on the first piece of wallpaper. Cut away excess paper at the upper edge to facilitate ease of hanging.

8. Roll up the first length of wallpaper loosely and place it in a wallpaper water tray. Grasp the top edge of the wallpaper with the fingers of both hands and slowly unroll, removing the paper entirely from the wallpaper tray.

9. Apply the first sheet of wallpaper to the ceiling, beginning in the corner measured during preparation. Use a square to make certain that your first sheet of paper is laid perfectly straight. It may be necessary to trim a small amount of paper off the side that touches the wall, depending upon the degree of squareness of your wall and ceiling.

10. Cut each successive piece of wall paper by laying it out next to the sheet before to make certain that you continue with a matching pattern.

Install Crown Molding

11. Measure the angle at the corner where you will begin to nail crown molding to the wall. On a piece of scrap molding, practice cutting your angle and test it against the angle on the wall. Make adjustments as necessary. Cut the angle into the crown molding. If your length of crown molding is as long as the wall, cut the angle at the second angle at the other end of the crown molding. Practice your angle first on scrap molding.

12. Nail the crown molding in place with finishing nails. Continue around the perimeter of the walls by measuring each angle and cutting the crown molding to fit before attaching the molding to the wall.

13. Countersink finishing nails by placing a nail set on the nail head and striking a blow with your hammer. Make certain the nail head is driven below the surface of the wood.

14. Fill each nail indention with spackling. Spackling can be applied by dipping your finger into the spackling to obtain a small amount of spackling on your fingertip. Rub your finger over the nail indention to fill the hole. Rub your finger over the filled hole to remove any excess spackling from the wood.

15. With a small paint brush, paint over the spackled nail holes with your wood trim paint.

Tags: crown molding, vaulted ceiling, sheet rock, certain that, make certain that, wall paper, your finger

Install A Motorized Projection Screen In A Drop Ceiling

Mount your projection screen securely from the ceiling for easy access.

With a motorized projection screen, you can reveal or conceal your big screen on demand. However, a motorized screen can be heavy, requiring a strong mounting point to keep the device from falling once it's been set into place. If you have drop ceilings, neither the grid of the ceiling nor the ceiling panels are strong enough to support a motorized screen. You can still install the projector, but you'll need to extend the installation through the grid level and into the ceiling joists above.

Instructions

1. Take a piece of paper and place it over the side of the projection screen with the mounting holes. Trace over the screen edges and mark the hole locations to make a template of the mounting surface. Cut out the template with a pair of scissors.

2. Place the template onto the drop ceiling where you wish to mount the projection screen. Use a ladder to reach the ceiling height. Make certain the mounting holes are clear of the ceiling grid rails that hold the ceiling panels in place. Mark the location of the holes onto the ceiling panels with the pencil, then remove the panels from the grid by pressing upward on them at the corners to tilt them at an angle and slipping them down through the ceiling grid holes.

3. Measure the length of the open space in the ceiling created by the removal of the ceiling panels. Cut a sheet of 3/4-inch plywood a foot wide and the measured length of the panel space.

4. Run the plywood sheet through one of the grid holes in the ceiling grid. Place the sheet against the ceiling joists above the desired screen mount location. Drive two 5-inch long hex head lag screws through the plywood and into each of the ceiling joists an inch inside each edge of the footwide panel length.

5. Place the template onto the piece of plywood and mark the mounting holes onto the plywood sheet. Drill a hole through the sheet at each marked point large enough to pass your threaded rod through.

6. Measure the distance between the joist and the bottom of the ceiling grid and add 1 inch to the length. Push a threaded rod through the holes in the plywood and secure it in place with a nut over the top. You'll have enough room to reach over the side of the sheet of plywood to place the nut over the top of the rod. The rod should end just short of the tip of the grid line, allowing space for the ceiling placement.

7. Test the locations of the mounting holes by placing a nail through each hole point in the ceiling panels, then slipping the panel through its grid hole. Check that the tip of the nail aligns with the threaded rod above. If it doesn't, adjust the nail so it's centered on the rod.

8. Remove the panel again and drill a hole through it where you determined the final location of the mounting hole will be.

9. Remove a couple of ceiling panels adjacent to the ones you're mounting the screen through to provide you access to the top of the mounting panels once in place. Place a small threaded rod into the projection mounting hole, extending about 1-1/2 inches from the top of the projection screen housing. Return the ceiling panels, with the holes through them, back to the ceiling grid.

10. Run the rods from the screen through the ceiling panels and place a coupler onto the ends above the panel, and onto the ends of the threaded rods extending from the ceiling joist.

11. Tighten the couplers over the two rods to pull them together until the ceiling panel rests on the grid rails with the projection screen flush against the base of the ceiling panels. The weight of the mount will be dispersed across the length of the plywood sheet attached to the joists, and not on the ceiling panels, or the grid frame.

12. Cut a notch in the panel next to the mount with a utility knife, and run the cord for the mount control and power through the ceiling space above the panels to the edge of the wall. Lift the panels along the cord route to move the cord along and drop them back into place when needed. Cut a second notch in a panel near the wall edge and run the cord down to a nearby electrical outlet and plug the device.

13. Return all ceiling panels to the grid.

Tags: ceiling panels, projection screen, ceiling grid, mounting holes, ceiling joists, plywood sheet, through ceiling

Buy Led Landscape Lighting

Even though the first light emitting diode (LED) was created in Russia in the mid-1920s, the first visible light from an LED was not invented until 1962. In 1996, the development of the white LED led to much wider usage for these bright lights. Many people buy LED landscape lighting because it uses very little energy, is environmentally friendly, has long life and provides pure light. All of the solar-powered landscape lights available on the market use LED lights.

Instructions

1. Determine which kind of LED lights you want to use: solar-powered or 12-volt-powered lights. Solar lights have no cost of operation, but 12-volt lights can be more dependable.

2. Inspect the garden, walkways and other areas you plan to light and think about what kind of lighting effects you want to create. Stroll through your neighborhood or leaf through a landscape magazine for inspiration.

3. Use spotlights to draw attention to trees or flowers and to create silhouette effects that cast light behind the object. Choose "up lights" at the base of walls, trees and other objects for a dramatic lighting effect. Choose "down lights" to illuminate wide areas and walkways and to increase security.

4. Decide which theme or style of light fixture will complement each area of your landscape. The style of your home should influence your choice. For instance, a Craftsman home may look just right with Arts and Crafts-style lighting, whereas a Victorian-style home will look better with more ornate, antique-style lighting.

5. Look for areas where you may want to use colored LED lights to add a different feel to the landscaping.

6. Buy LED lights with one or two diodes for a light glow or more diodes for brighter lights.

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Chapter 13 Debt Limits

High debt can preclude you from filing Chapter 13 bankruptcy.

Not everybody is eligible to file for Chapter 13 bankruptcy. Under Section 109(e) of the U.S. Bankruptcy Code, If you have too much debt, you cannot qualify for this form of debt relief. To qualify to file Chapter 13, you must first pay down your debts until they fall below the statutory limitations.

Time Frame

Section 104(a) of the Bankruptcy Code requires periodic adjustments to the debt limitations imposed under Section 109(e) of the law. This means that the debt limitations vary over time. Specifically, the debt limitations are adjusted on April 1 every three years.

Definitions

The Chapter 13 debt limitations apply separately to both secured and unsecured debt. A secured debt happens when the borrower pledges a specific piece of property as collateral on the debt. The identified property, or collateral, can be taken by the lender if the borrower defaults. The most common forms of secured debt include home mortgages, car loans and consumer goods installment loans. Unsecured debts, on the other hand, are debts that don't identify or attach to any specific property or collateral.

Secured Debts

To be eligible for Chapter 13 bankruptcy, your total secured debts must be less than $1,081,400. If you have total secured debts greater than this amount, you cannot qualify to file until you pay down the debts. This amount is effective as of April 1, 2010, but will change every three years.

Unsecured Debts

You cannot file Chapter 13 bankruptcy if your total unsecured debts exceed $360,475, as of April 1, 2010.

Taxes

In addition to the debt limitations listed above, you also must be current on your federal income tax return filings to be eligible for Chapter 13. However, this does not mean you must have no debt to the Internal Revenue Service (IRS). On the contrary, you can qualify for filing Chapter 13 if you are behind on your payments to the IRS. Your debt to the IRS is included in the total unsecured debt calculation.

Tags: debt limitations, Chapter bankruptcy, file Chapter, property collateral, April 2010, Bankruptcy Code, bankruptcy your

Paint The Bathroom Ceiling The Same Color As The Walls In A Small Bathroom

Top-quality ceiling paint can make a difficult job much easier.

Painting a ceiling flawlessly is more difficult than simply painting walls, and the project becomes even more challenging if the surface is textured or you have to work in small confines or around difficult obstacles. However, you can save yourself some headaches by using the right equipment, starting with the paint itself. While ceiling paint most often comes in white or off-white, paint stores can easily tint a gallon or two to your desired hue.

Instructions

Choosing Ceiling Paint

1. When seeking to match a ceiling's color to that of your walls, you could simply use the same gallons of wall paint, even without dilution. However, keep in mind that ceiling paint is formulated differently than wall paint to prevent dripping and increase drying time. In addition, you likely used a semi-gloss sheen on the bathroom walls, and flat paint is usually preferable for ceilings.

2. Take a sample of your bathroom wall paint color to a paint store. A good sample is at least the size of a quarter. If you still have an opened bucket of your bathroom wall paint, it is best not to remove a sample from the wall. Depending on the size of your ceiling, your paint store can mix a gallon or two of matching ceiling paint.

3. While you may be tempted to buy a cheap ceiling paint, the quality of ceiling paint will allow you to use fewer coats, thereby lessening the risk of mistakes and reducing the duration of your project.

Preparation and Application

4. Before beginning your project, cover countertops, floors, tubs and toilets with drop cloths. Remove any ceiling fixtures, such as an exhaust fan cover. Based on the size of the ceiling, decide whether to use a large paint brush or a paint roller. Confident painters may opt not to use tools like painter's tape or an edger, but these can help novice painters immensely.

5. Paint the edges of your ceiling using an edging tool or a paint brush. Because you must avoid touching the walls, this step will require the most concentration.

6. If desired, you can switch to a paint roller attached to an extension pole to cover the center portion of the ceiling. Once you have covered the ceiling, you may apply an additional coat in three to four hours, depending on how well the bathroom is ventilated.

Tags: wall paint, ceiling paint, ceiling paint, bathroom wall, bathroom wall paint

Build A Train Set Hoist To The Ceiling

Model train layouts can often take up an entire room's floor space.

One of the biggest problems that model railroaders run into is a lack of space for their hobby. Depending on the scale of the trains that you run and the overall size of your layout, it may not be feasible to install your train set on a traditional bench system. This makes suspending your train layout from a ceiling an extremely appealing consideration. It is, however, a relatively difficult project to undertake unless you have a very good idea of just how you can go about it.

Instructions

1. Drill holes for the eye bolts into the train layout that will support the layout when it is hanging from the ceiling. These bolts will have to be placed at intervals of approximately every four feet around the perimeter of the train layout. The holes should be drilled through a support beam underneath the train layout. Avoid mounting the eye bolt to only the plywood top of the layout.

2. Drill holes in the ceiling directly above each of the eye bolts. This is where the cables that raise and lower the layout will be positioned. You may find it helpful when doing this to use a laser pointer that has the same size shaft as the hole you drilled for the eye bolts. All you have to do is insert the laser pointer into the bolt hole and then turn it on. The laser will point to where the hole should be drilled.

3. Install the eye bolts into the train layout by pushing the threaded bolt through the top of the layout and fastening it on the bottom with a washer and a locking nut.

4. Install the pulley supports in the attic of your home just above the train layout. If you have a second floor above the room where the layout will be installed, the pulleys will have to be installed below the level of the ceiling rather than hidden above it. If you have to do this, use lag eye bolts installed into the framing joists of the ceiling. If you can install the board in an attic, mount the lag eye bolts into 2x4 lumber laminated to 4x4 lumber laid across the joists. If you have a particularly heavy layout, such as an "O" gauge layout, use 2x6 lumber instead of 2x4.

5. Mount the winch either in your attic or near the baseboards of the room. It is important that the winch has enough draw strength to pull up the layout, but also enough room to raise and lower the layout in place. For this reason, it should be mounted as far away from the first holes you drilled in the ceiling as the amount of space that the layout will have to be raised to get it out of the way. The winch should be mounted as securely as possible, so you may have to use 2x6 lumber laminated into 4x6 lumber and mounted to the ceiling joists with lag bolts.

6. Construct a gangway that will channel the cables from the ceiling pulleys to the winch. This can be done by simply mounting a number of pulleys to a piece of laminated lumber. For heavy layouts, construct the gangway out of two to three pieces of 2x6 lumber laminated together with wood screws. Lighter "N" or "HO" scale layouts may only require 2x4s.

7. Install the gangway for the wires to be connected to. This will channel all of the cables into one place where the winch can be used to lift them all at once. The gangway should be positioned at least as far from the winch as there is distance for the layout to be lifted. This means that the gangway will be much closer to the cables and the holes than the winch will be.

8. Cut one length of braided steel cord for each eye bolt on the layout using a cut-off wheel on a rotary tool. To determine the necessary length of each cable, run the cable through the gangway, into one of the ceiling pulleys and then down to the train layout. Cut the pulley approximately 12 inches away from the gangway on the winch side.

9. Build loops in the ends of each of the cut cables that are on the winch side of the gangway by doubling the cable over itself and then installing a compression band on the cable to hold it in place. When each of them is looped, connect them to the winch's cable hook.

10. Install hooks onto the other end of each of the cables so that the cable is tight when it is hooked onto the eye bolts. If you have to, you can loop the cable over itself in the same way that you looped the other end and use "S" hooks to connect the eye bolt to the cable loop.

11. Plug in the winch to an appropriate power outlet and use its remote control to raise the layout a few feet into the air and test the holding strength of your installation. Check all the cable connections and connections to the ceiling trusses. It is also important that the layout be lifted evenly across all of the eye hooks.

Tags: train layout, bolts into, cables that, from ceiling, layout will

Install A Remote Control For A Hunter Fan

Install a Hunter remote on your Hunter fan.

Based in Memphis, Tenn., Hunter Fans produces more than 300 fan models. In 1989, Hunter became the first manufacturer in the fan industry to sell wall-mounted and hand-held remote controls for its ceiling fans. Hunter fan remotes are specifically designed for Hunter ceiling fans and make operation of the ceiling fan more convenient.

Instructions

1. Set the Hunter fan on high and turn on the lights to the ceiling fan.

2. Turn off the breaker that supplies power to the Hunter fan at the main breaker panel.

3. Test to verify that the power has been disconnected. Remove the cover from the light switch that operates the fan. Use a two-pronged electrical tester and touch one probe to one of the black wires on the switch and touch the other probe to any metal on the electrical box or switch. Repeat this for the remaining black wire on the switch. If your power has been disconnected properly for tester will not light up. Replace the switch cover.

4. Remove the canopy from the ceiling fan. The canopy covers the hanging bracket and attaches with two or more screws. Removing the canopy exposes the ceiling fan wiring.

5. Disconnect the Hunter ceiling fan wiring. Remove the wire connector that holds the two white wires together by twisting it counterclockwise. Remove the wire connector that connects the red and black wires from the Hunter fan to the black wire located in the electrical ceiling box.

6. Identify the Hunter ceiling fan remote wires. The Hunter remote receiver is rectangular in shape. Lay the receiver on its flat side and orient it with the wire antenna at the left and the five connection wires facing you. From left to right the wires are identified as follows; red to the light kit, black to the fan motor, white to the fan neutral, white to the electrical box neutral and black to the electrical box black.

7. Install the Hunter fan remote. Twist an orange wire connector onto the red wire from the receiver and the red wire from the ceiling fan, connecting them together. Connect the black wire from the receiver to the black fan wire and the white wire from the receiver to the white fan wire, twisting orange wire connectors onto each set of wires. Connect the black wire from the electrical ceiling box to the remaining black wire on the receiver and the white wire from the electrical box to the remaining hot wire on the remote receiver using orange connectors.

8. Push the wires and the remote receiver into the ceiling fan hanging bracket and reattach the canopy. Turn the breaker back on at the main electrical panel to power the fan circuit.

Tags: black wire, wire from, from receiver, Hunter ceiling, Hunter remote

Install Residential Suspended Ceilings

Drop Ceiling Tile

In the past drop or suspended ceilings have been used primarily in commercial or retail applications. In residential use they were found in basements because of their ability to cover utilities and other items. As designs have improved and become more numerous, drop ceilings have found their way into more and more residential applications. Drop ceilings offer easy access to overhead areas, better acoustic qualities and can be installed with only moderate difficulty.

Instructions

Basic Installation of Drop Ceiling

1. Carefully measure from the floor up to the level at which you want the ceiling. Make a pencil mark at the desired height, then double check your measurement. Once you are certain the mark is accurate, use the level to make additional marks around the entire perimeter of the room at the same level as the original mark. This will be your guide for the first bracket installation.

2. Install the perimeter "L" bracket using the mark as your guide. Cut the bracket to the proper length using the tin snips. Keep the cut as clean, straight and neat as possible. Use 2-inch screws to anchor the bracket to the wall studs. The studs should be on 16-inch centers. Many brands will pre-drill the brackets at the proper location, making this task easier.

3. Mount all of the perimeter brackets first. Secure each screw in place using the drill. Occasionally double check the bracket to be certain it is level. If you find it out of level, stop and work back until you find where the problem developed, and correct it.

4. Measure out 4-foot intervals from one side of the room to the other. At each four-foot mark you will install an eye-bolt in the overhead ceiling. Securely tie a wire to the eye bolt. The wire should extend down 6 to 8 inches below the planned level of the ceiling grid.

5. Insert a "T" bracket into the wall "L" bracket at the 4-foot mark. These brackets are designed to easily and securely clip together. Hang a "T" bracket in line with the hanging wires, securing the bracket in place by twisting the wires through the pre-drilled holes. It will be necessary to check the bracket to be certain it is level at each wire connection. Install all main "T" brackets.

6. Install a 4-foot "T" bracket every 2 feet between the wall and the first bracket, and between all other "T" brackets. When completed you will have a grid of 2-by-4 foot openings. Insert ceiling tiles into each opening, angling them slightly to get them through the opening, then allowing them to rest on the brackets.

7. Cut the final row of ceiling tiles to the proper length. Unless your room is divisible by four, you will have one oddsized row, which must be custom cut. Carefully measure each opening and cut a ceiling tile to fit. Insert these tiles to complete the grid.

Tags: bracket certain, bracket certain level, Carefully measure, ceiling tiles, ceilings have

Paint A Ceiling Tile To Look Like Tin

Painting a ceiling to look like tin is relatively easy but requires the ability to stand on a ladder for a long period, or the use of a long-handled paint roller. Cleaning the ceiling and allowing it to thoroughly dry should be completed a day before beginning the faux tin ceiling project. Select an embossed design suited to resemble a tin pattern. Home improvement staff can assist with this process.

Instructions

1. Measure and cut enough strips of wallpaper to cover the ceiling.

2. Soak embossed wallpaper in wallpaper paste and a water mixture for at least 5 minutes.

3. Press the wallpaper firmly onto the ceiling. Smooth any wrinkles or creases. Staple wallpaper to the ceiling to secure it if necessary. Dry the wallpaper overnight before proceeding with the paint.

4. Roll metallic tin colored paint over the embossed wallpaper. Dry the paint overnight.

5. Apply a second coat of paint to achieve the desired effect. This step is optional.

Tags: embossed wallpaper

Make My Backyard & Screenedin Porch Feel Like The Beach

A palapa has a thatched roof.

When you aren't able to make it to the seashore, the next best thing is to create a beachlike environment in your own backyard or patio. This enables you to take an instant vacation every time you step outside or onto your porch. While you might not be able to complete all the steps in creating your personal beach, you can accomplish a few without remortgaging your home.

Instructions

1. Clean your yard and patio, and remove any non-beachlike furniture and decor. It might be time for a yard sale.

2. Install exterior ceiling fans on the patio. Select fans in a palm, tropical or Casablanca style.

3. Cover the patio floor with bamboo mats.

4. Select patio furniture in outdoor wicker or rattan.

5. Drape a large fishing net across an exterior wall off the patio. Artfully arrange the net and decorate it with large seashells.

6. Place torch lighting strategically around the yard.

7. Landscape the yard or add potted plants to the patio, using tropical plants such as bird of paradise and palm trees.

8. Add a water feature to the area, such as a fountain, to bring in the sound of water. Select a fountain that fits into the beach theme.

9. Install a palapa structure in the backyard to use as a bar, gazebo or over a table. A palapa is a structure with bamboo bars and a thatched roof.

10. Build a swimming pool in the backyard that has a beach entrance and pebble tech surface.

Tags: palapa structure, thatched roof, with bamboo

Install Tin Tiles Over Ceramic Tile On A Kitchen Wall

Install tin tiles over ceramic tiles in the kitchen to update it.

Using decorative tin tiles for a kitchen wall decoration or backsplash is a creative way to boost the aesthetic appeal of your home. Generally, tin tiles can be installed over the existing wall material, whether that is ceramic tile, dry wall or wallpaper, as long the proper preparation steps are taken. Tin tiles can be purchased at many places, including building supply stores and home decorating shops. Choose color or pattern variations of the tiles to create a checkerboard design on the wall for a personalized kitchen wall.

Instructions

1. Clean the existing wall ceramic tiles thoroughly with a degreaser and cleaner combination. Scrub the wall well with the cleaner and a sponge scrub pad to remove all traces of grease and other debris that may be on the wall. It is important for the ceramic tiles to be clean or the adhesive of the tin tiles will not stick properly.

2. Sand the ceramic tiles gently with 80 grit sandpaper to scuff the surface. This allows the adhesive to form a better bond with the ceramic tiles, ensuring that the tin tiles won't fall off the wall later. If there are any obvious bumps on the ceramic tiles, you need to sand them down level with the surrounding surface. Wipe the wall with a dampened sponge to remove the sanding dust and allow the ceramic tiles to dry.

3. Measure and cut the tin tiles to fit in the space where you are planning to install them. Cutting the pieces beforehand will ensure that there are no unsightly edges. Use tin snips to cut the tin tiles in smooth, straight lines.

4. Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the back of the tin tile and place it against the ceramic tile already on the wall. Press the tin tile firmly against the wall, holding it in place for about 30 seconds so the adhesive can form a good bond. Continue working in this manner until all the tin tiles are installed on the kitchen wall. Allow the tin tiles to rest for 24 hours so the construction adhesive can cure properly.

5. Nail the tin tiles to the underlying wall using a pneumatic pin nailer. This piece of equipment is a high powered nail gun that ensures small nails can penetrate the underlying surface. Use caution when working with the pneumatic pin nailer to avoid injury. After you nail the tin tiles to the wall, tap each nail with a nail set to push the nails below the surface of the surrounding wall, making them virtually invisible.

6. Wipe the tin tiles down thoroughly with a sponge dampened with denatured alcohol. This will remove the protective coating that is put on the tin tiles by the manufacturer. The tin tiles can be painted with oil based paint or left unpainted.

Tags: ceramic tiles, kitchen wall, adhesive form, construction adhesive, existing wall, pneumatic nailer, that tiles

Paint A False Ceiling

Also known as a dropped or suspended ceiling, a false ceiling is actually a secondary ceiling constructed within a large area, such as a warehouse or large building. Usually composed of tiles set within a metal frame, false ceilings offer a warmer, cozier feel to an office or room. Painting this particular type of ceiling is complicated by the exposed metal frames running throughout the surface. Unlike the ceiling tiles within them, the frames aren't suited for paint. Treat the individual frame with an etching primer before you start painting, or it will shed paint soon after application.

Instructions

Preparing the Ceiling

1. Dust the false ceiling with a broom. Even unnoticed dust will interfere with primer adhesion. Be sure to dust all portions of the ceiling, even if they already look clean.

2. Climb a ladder to reach the false ceiling. Coat the metallic frame with metal-etching primer, using a 2-inch polyester brush. Let the frame dry for two hours.

3. Wash the brush in the sink.

Application

4. Coat the false ceiling with shellac primer, using a roller. Screw the roller frame into a telescoping extension pole. Stand on the floor as you apply; roll vertically moving left-to-right. Prime both the ceiling paneling and primed metal frame.

5. Climb the ladder to touch up skipped areas, using 2-inch china brush. Let the false ceiling dry for two hours.

6. Wash all tools, using denatured alcohol.

7. Paint the false ceiling as you primed it. Use a fresh nap cover to apply a flat latex finish. Use a polyester brush to touch-up the ceiling. Let the false ceiling dry for two hours.

Tags: false ceiling, ceiling false, ceiling false ceiling, ceiling hours, ceiling with, Climb ladder, false ceiling hours

Ideas For Tray Ceiling Lighting In A Kitchen

A pendant light can add a fun, decorative element to your kitchen's tray ceiling.

A tray ceiling provides interesting architectural detail and creates a more spacious feel for a room. It features multiple horizontal levels at various levels -- though the most common type of tray ceiling is the recessed tray, where the center is higher than the surrounding edges. While it provides an interesting look, a tray ceiling may present a challenge in your kitchen because of lighting issues. Fortunately, there are several options that not only work well with a tray ceiling's unique look but provide the type of lighting that is necessary for effective work in the kitchen.

Recessed Lighting

Recessed lighting provides a low-maintenance, subtle option for your kitchen's tray ceiling. As the name implies, these fixtures are installed in indentations in the ceiling so they are flush with the surface. They are ideal for use with a tray ceiling because they illuminate the ceiling itself to accent its decorative appearance. However, they are also effective in a kitchen because you can place them anywhere along the ceiling to provide concentrated light wherever you need it.

Track Lighting

Track lighting is an effective option if you want to add task lighting to your kitchen's tray ceiling. Task lighting helps illuminate work spaces, so you can better see what you are doing as you cook and prepare meals. Track lighting is ideal because it features individual lights whose heads can be adjusted to focus on a specific area of the kitchen. It also works well with a tray ceiling because the lights can shine in multiple directions over the ceiling to highlight the architectural detail and make your kitchen feel more spacious.

Rope Lighting

Rope lighting provides soft, ambient lighting for your kitchen. As its name name implies, the fixture consists of a clear PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or resin tube that contains a string of small lights. It fits neatly along the edge of a tray ceiling, and because its light is directed upward, it draws the eye to the ceiling. However, rope lighting is carefully concealed along the ceiling's seams, so the lights don't detract from the ceiling itself. They work best if you want to create a soft, warm atmosphere and do not need strong, direct tasking lighting for your kitchen.

Pendant Light

If you wish to add a decorative lighting element to your kitchen's tray ceiling, a pendant light is the ideal option. Pendant lights hang from the ceiling and feature shades in a wide variety of materials, shapes, styles and colors. By placing the pendant in the center of your tray ceiling, it becomes the highlight of the room and draws attention to the ceiling itself. A pedant light is a particularly attractive option if your kitchen has a center island because it creates a focal center for the room and provides direct lighting for the island's work surface. You may also hang several pendant lights in the same style side-by-side for added drama.

Tags: your kitchen, tray ceiling, kitchen tray, kitchen tray ceiling, tray ceiling, your kitchen tray, ceiling because

Put The Planets On A Ceiling

Put adhesive backed planet decals on your child's ceiling.

Spark imagination in your child's room and make bedtime fun by installing planets on the ceiling. Adding planets to the ceiling of a space themed room will add a final touch of detail, especially when the lights are turned off. Prepare the ceiling for the planets by painting it a dark blue or black in a flat finish. You can purchase adhesive backed decals of the planets that glow in the dark. The planets include Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus and Neptune.

Instructions

1. Pour the paint into a roller pan. Roll the roller in the pan to apply paint to it.

2. Paint the ceiling with an even coat of paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least four hours and apply a second coat. Allow the paint to dry 24 to 48 hours.

3. Lay out the planets as you would like them to appear. They appear in the solar system in the following order, nearest to farthest from the sun: Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus and Neptune. You could use the light fixture as the sun and orient the planets in orbit around the fixture. Mark the desired location of each planet onto the ceiling with a pencil.

4. Remove the adhesive backing from each planet and place them with the sticky-side against the ceiling at the corresponding pencil marks. Smooth over the surface of the planets with your hands to remove any creases or air pockets.

Tags: adhesive backed, Allow paint, ceiling with, each planet, Earth Mars

Mic A Small Choir

Capture a small choir using a condenser or dynamic microphone.

Capturing the sound of a small choir may seem like a difficult task, but it is easily accomplished with a microphone or two. Dynamic or condenser microphones can be used to complete this task. While either type of microphone will work fine, condenser microphones are typically preferred because of their expanded high frequency range. Whereas most dynamic microphones have a high frequency limit of around 16 KHz, most condenser microphones have a high frequency limit of around 20 KHz.

Instructions

1. Acquire one condenser or dynamic microphone for every 20 foot span of singers. For about 15 singers, you'll need one microphone. For about 30 singers, you'll need two microphones. When more than one microphone is required, acquire two of the same type of microphone if possible.

2. Place the microphone, or microphones, on a boom stand. Alternatively, hang the microphones from the ceiling if they are small enough to do so.

3. Place the microphone, or microphones, about a foot and a half in front of the singers in the front row of the choir.

4. Raise the microphone, or microphones, about a foot and a half above the heads of the singers in the back row of the choir. Doing so will position the microphones equidistantly from the singers in the front row and singers in the back row. This will yield a balanced mix of the choir.

5. Position the microphone in the center of the group if only one microphone is needed. If two microphones are needed, position one microphone towards the left side of the group and one microphone towards the right side of the group. When using multiple microphones, the general rule for placement is that the microphones should be three times as far away from each other as they are from the sound source they are capturing.

Tags: condenser microphones, high frequency, microphone microphones, about foot, about foot half, about singers

Expose Beams

Exposed ceiling beams are a common characteristic of houses built a hundred or more years ago. When wood ceiling beams are exposed, you can see up to the roof in some homes, while in houses with attics, you can usually see the material used to build the attic floor. If you'd like to add a touch of Old-World style to your home, try exposing a room's ceiling beams to get that antique look.

Instructions

1. Cover the floor of the area where you want to expose the beams. Use a drop cloth over the entire flooring area, and tape the cloth to the walls at the edges for full coverage.

2. Tear down the ceiling in the room. If you have a standard plaster ceiling, punch a crowbar or large hammer up into the plaster and start prying the plaster away, allowing the plaster bits to fall to the drop cloth. If you have a tiled ceiling, pry off the tiles first, and then remove the plaster.

3. Inspect the ceiling area once you have the entire ceiling torn down to determine proceed. If the ceiling beams are completely exposed all the way to the roof, the interior of that roof will most likely be wood. If the ceiling beams are beneath an attic, there will be a subfloor that connects the beams together.

4. Restore the beams. If the beams appear in good condition, apply any standard stain to return the beams to their best condition. If the beams are discolored, apply a wood stripper to the beams to remove the outer layer of wood and reveal the untouched wood beneath before staining.

5. Fix any problem areas around the newly exposed beams. You can restore the inside of a roof or the wood subfloor of the attic in the same way you restored the beams. If you prefer, you can also paint the wood subfloor between the beams or tile between them.

Tags: ceiling beams, drop cloth, exposed roof, wood ceiling, wood ceiling beams, wood subfloor

Textured Ceiling Styles

Ceiling textures can be created in many patterns.

There are two basic finish styles for drywall: basic and textured. Textured finishes come in a variety of styles, from light to medium to complex. There are an array of ceiling-texture styles and numerous ways to do ceiling texture to make your home unique. Ceiling texture is created by using joint compound or drywall "mud" and applying it to the ceiling using trowels, drywall knives, combs, sponges, brooms and even your own fingers.

Knock Down

The knock-down texture is applied with a spray gun. Texture is applied randomly and the peaks of the material are "knocked down" to create a pattern. The peaks are knocked down with a clean trowel. The more texture you apply to the ceiling, the more complex the look will be. To achieve the complex look, you must apply a coat of texture and then knock the peaks down. Apply another coat until the desired look is achieved.

Roller

Roller texture is put on just like paint. Put the texture in a paint pan and use a roller to apply it to the ceiling. Paint rollers come in a variety of sizes, shapes and styles. For a heavy texture look, use a long-nap paint roller. The longer the paint roller nap, the rougher the texture look will be.

Trowel On

The trowel-on texture gives a smooth finish. The texture is applied using a clean smooth trowel and this will give it a plaster look. The finished look will depend on the consistency of the texturing material.

Spray On

The spray-on option gives a variety of looks using a special spray gun. The gun sprays the texture on the ceiling and it dries just like it is sprayed on. The styles can depend on the thickness of the texturing material, air pressure and the size of the spray orifice. Additives can be mixed with the texturing material, such as sand and polystyrene, to make the look different.

Combed

The combed look uses a special trowel with designs on the trowel. Most of the time, the trowel has spaced triangular notches that are used to make spiral patterns in the texture. After the texture is applied, the trowel is used to make designs in the texture, which will give the texture a very formal look.

Tags: look will, paint roller, texturing material, apply ceiling, come variety

Airplane Decor Ideas

Airplanes have long drawn the admiration of children and adults alike, and some home decorators prefer to translate this fascination into themed decor. From window and lighting fixtures to bedding, airplane decor is readily available, can be easily made and lends a distinctive aviation feel to almost any home.

Decorate the Walls

An excellent way to lend an aviation feel to almost any room is by painting the walls a sky blue color. The shade of blue will vary depending on the room's function---a living and entertainment room would be a darker shade of blue than a young boy's bedroom, for example---and blue walls may be augmented with puffy, white clouds and a sun. Airplane posters can be added to simulate flight traffic, and wall-cling decorations featuring birds are available at many discount chain stores.

Window Treatments

Windows may provide a view out to the actual sky, but they can be a detriment to the overall aviation feel of the room. To keep the decor consistent, consider using colored pull-down blinds in sky colors or decorate them to represent the sun. Curtains can be easily fashioned from airplane prints available at local fabric shops, or plain white curtains can resemble clouds to an imaginative child. Finally, small, model aircraft can be used to adorn windowsills, or static-cling stickers of airplanes can add the appearance of outside air traffic to plain, glass windows.

Decorate the Ceiling

An airplane's home is in the sky, and there is nowhere closer to the sky in a room than the ceiling. Static-cling or permanent stickers resembling the underside of various aircraft can create an open air, high-traffic feel to the room, and models suspended from the ceiling on fishing wire add a touch of third-dimensional reality. For young children, an airplane-themed mobile may compliment the room decor while keeping babies entertained. Finally, a ceiling fan fashioned to resemble an airplane propeller can be purchased from a number of sources and can be the ultimate finishing touch.

Turn Beds Into Airplanes

For decorating a bedroom, the airplane theme can be completed with special bed covers fashioned to represent a favorite type of airplane. Bedspreads and duvet covers are available in various airplane styles ranging from fighter jets to commercial airliners, and children (or young-at-heart adults) can use their imagination to feel as though they are flying on their newly-decorated bed.

Tags: aviation feel, aviation feel almost, feel almost, feel room, shade blue

Themed Creative Ideas For Your Bedroom

Turn a humdrum bedroom into a place where you feel like you're on vacation. Lounge on a sandy beach surrounded by palm trees swaying in the breeze. Perhaps you're a true-blue cowboy and would like to hang your hat on a Western-themed wall. Get your creative juices flowing and choose a theme for your bedroom. Here are ideas to get you started.

Rustic Retreat

Who says you need to go to a secluded cabin in the woods to enjoy the rugged beauty of the outdoors? Turn your bedroom into a rustic retreat. Furnish the room with rugged log or pine furniture. Use earthy colors, such as red, brown, forest green, black and cream in your decor. Adorn your bedroom with woodland friends, such as bears, moose and deer. Drape your bed in a cozy rustic-themed comforter and snuggle in for a peaceful night in the woods. Just watch out for the bears that might stop in for a visit.

Island Getaway

Decorate your room with lush palm trees, bamboo and lots of bright floral. You'll feel as though you've stepped into a tropical paradise. Hang bamboo shades on the windows. Adorn shelves and tables with sea shells. Hang island-themed wall art on the wall--or, paint or stencil tropical scenes right on the wall. Plenty of bedding, furniture and accessories are available to purchase to complete your island getaway. At fanimation.com, you can even buy a ceiling fan shaped like palm leaves.

Secret Garden

Bring the beauty of a flower garden inside and create a secret garden bedroom. Whether you like bright yellow sunflowers, pink and lavender tulips or colorful roses, create a color palette for your room from your favorite flower bouquet. Adorn the room with garden-style furniture, such as wicker or rod iron. Drape silk ivy on shelves and around the window frames. Stencil flowers on the wall and on white wood furniture. Top your bed with a floral bedspread and lots of coordinating throw pillows.

Wild West

Howdy, pardner. Put on your cowboy hat and get ready to design a Wild West bedroom. Choose Southwestern colors for your bedroom, such as such as red, orange, turquoise, green and brown. Furnish the room with rustic wood furniture, or pieces with a Western theme. For a real cowboy accent table, go to BedroomFurniture.com and purchase the Hidden Treasures Old Western Rifle Accent Table. Hang cowboy hats, horseshoes, pictures of Wild West scenes and old wooden signs on the wall. Add a touch of whimsy with a cowboy boot lamp. Hang denim curtains on the windows and dot the room with desert-loving plants, such as cactus.

Tags: room with, Wild West, your bedroom, bedroom into, Furnish room, Furnish room with, palm trees

Install A Home Depot Ceiling Light Fixture

Home Depot sells many brands of ceiling light fixtures, but only one is the Home Depot brand. That brand is Commercial Electric. Commercial Electric light fixtures are high-quality fixtures that are generally inexpensive. They are available in multiple finish styles that are easy to match to other hardware finishes in the home. A Commercial Electric may take a novice electrician about 30 minutes to install. The installation is straightforward. There are no special wiring tricks or obstacles to overcome along the way. Home Depot made it possible for every do-it-yourselfer out there to upgrade their lighting and keep to a budget.

Instructions

1. Turn the power off that services the light fixture box at the circuit breaker.

2. Remove the fixture and all of its hardware parts from the packaging and look through them to be sure everything is included. It is best to be sure all parts are present before beginning the installation so the installation will not be hampered if something is missing.

3. Attach the mounting strap to the fixture electrical box with the two screws that are provided and a screwdriver.

4. Attach the supply black (hot) wire to the black fixture wire using a wire nut. Attach the supply white (neutral) wire to the white fixture wire with a wire nut. Attach the supply green or solid copper (ground) wire to the green fixture wire with a wire nut.

5. Hold the ceiling pan portion of the light fixture against the ceiling and attach it to the mounting strap with the two provided mounting screws.

6. Thread the hex jamb nut onto the end of the threaded rod that will attach to the ceiling pan. Hand-thread the threaded rod into the hole in the center of the ceiling pan and tighten it by hand. Install a light bulb into the bulb socket.

7. Hold the glass fixture shade up to the ceiling pan and pass the threaded rod through the hole in the shade. Slide the cap over the threaded rod and thread the finial onto the threaded rod. Tighten the finial by hand.

8. Turn the power supply back on and test the light fixture.

Tags: Home Depot, Attach supply, Commercial Electric, fixture wire, light fixture

Remove Textured Ceiling Paint

Some people love the look of texture and add it to their walls and ceilings. However, if you just moved into a new house you may completely hate the textured ceiling above your head. Moreover, it collects dust and dirt far easier than an untextured surface. Luckily, it is possible to remove the textured paint from the ceiling without hiring a professional.

Instructions

1. Tape off and cover all electrical outlets. You do not want the textured paint to lodge itself into the outlet once removed.

2. Spread plastic sheets over the entire floor. It may help to tape the sheets up against the walls. You are going to use water so the sheets will help protect the floor from becoming wet. It also makes for easier cleanup.

3. Mix two or three tablespoons of mild dish soap into a gallon of water. Then fill a pump sprayer with the solution. You can purchase a pump sprayer at any home-improvement store.

4. Spray an area of the ceiling until it is thoroughly soaked. You want to make sure the texture on the ceiling is soft. Do not spray the entire ceiling at once because parts are going to dry before you can properly see to them.

5. Stand on your ladder and use a putty knife to scrape away the textured paint. With the ceiling thoroughly wet the paint should fall right off.

6. Proceed with spraying additional areas of the ceiling and scraping the textured paint off until the entire ceiling has been cleared of the texture.

7. Sand the ceiling to smooth out any jagged areas that may be left over from the textured paint.

Tags: textured paint, entire ceiling, pump sprayer

Duties Of Window Glaziers

Window glaziers use scaffolds to install windows on tall buildings.

Window glaziers install glass on all types of buildings and houses. Glaziers are experienced in handling plate glass, glass panels and special glass products used in mirrors, shower doors, rotating glass doors, vehicle windows and more. To become a skilled glazier, a person must have a high school diploma and a certificate of completion from an apprenticeship program or on the job experience working for an experienced glazier. Working as a glazier can be dangerous at times, as they work with glass, climb ladders and using sharp tools.

Glass Installation and Repair

Glaziers are required to install, repair and replace glass and glass alternatives, such as plastic in building interiors and exteriors. They also install or repair glass on all types of products such as furniture, display cases, tabletops and glass ceilings. Glaziers must recognize the type of glass needed and its specifications before installing or repairing the glass for each job. Glaziers must use proper safety procedures to remove excess glass, grind glass, polish glass and repairing or installing glass.

Interpreting and Evaluating Information

Glaziers are responsible for knowing interpret blueprints and technical diagrams. They also must know and adhere to compliance standards. Glaziers are required to conduct safety inspections and complete the proper documentation for each assignment. Glaziers must inspect all equipment and materials, as well as determine any potential issues, before installing or repairing glass.

Provide Good Customer Service

Glaziers consult with customers before starting any work. Glaziers must check with customers to determine if any project details need amending before giving the customer a final cost estimate and starting the job. Glaziers are to act in a professional manner at all times, implementing ethical behavior and skilled workmanship.

Handling Tools and Materials

Glaziers should be familiar with the tools of the trade and are expected to know which materials and tools are needed for each job activity. For instance, glaziers should know what tools and materials are needed to cut glass, attach glass, pack spaces, hang glass and attach moldings to glass. Glaziers are required to know when to use mastic cement, putty or bolts to secure glass screws, check walls and structures before installing or removing glass, and when to use adhesive film on glass.

Operating Mechanical Equipment and Vehicles

Glaziers must acquire all the proper licenses and certifications to operate cranes, hoists or heavy machinery for lifting bulky, heavy pieces of glass. Glaziers will drive trucks or vans to transport glass, tools and all materials needed for the job.

General Physical Labor

It is mandatory for glaziers to be able to lift movable objects such as furniture. Glaziers are responsible for cleaning their work sites, loading and unloading equipment and transporting portable glass to and from work trucks.

Tags: Glaziers must, before installing, Glaziers required, before installing repairing, glass attach

Estimate Commercial Painting Costs

know what a commercial painting job will cost.

To be successful as a commercial painter, you need to be able to accurately estimate commercial job costs so that you are both competitive and profitable. Each job will be different and you will want to be able to estimate costs so that bidding does not become a huge draw on time that you could otherwise be using to complete profitable jobs. Following these steps will help you estimate what a job will cost you to perform, but it does not include the amount you should charge to achieve a profit.

Instructions

1. Measure the area to be painted. Multiply the length by the height of each wall. Add these figures to get the total square footage of all the walls in the room. Subtract the square footage of any windows or doors in the room. For example, imagine you have a room with 9-foot ceilings that measures 12 feet by 14 feet. So you have two walls that are 9 by 12 and two walls that are 9 by 14. The total square footage of the walls is 468 square feet. There are two windows measuring 3 feet by 4 feet and one door measuring 6 feet by 3 feet. So subtract 24 square feet for the windows and 18 square feet for the door for a total measurement of 426 square feet. If you are painting the ceiling, multiply the length of the longer wall by the length of the shorter wall to get the square footage for the ceiling. In our example, this would be 14 multiplied by 12 for 168 additional square feet. Repeat this step for each room that will be painted.

2. Determine the number of gallons of paint you will need. The average gallon of paint will cover one coat on 350 square feet of area. If you have 900 square feet of space to paint and you are only doing one coat, you know that you will need about 2.6 gallons of paint. Round it to 3 gallons to be sure. Price the paint per gallon to get the total cost for the paint.

3. Price the cost of materials. You may have some materials on hand, but you will likely need to purchase brushes and rollers, paint trays, drop cloths and perhaps cleaning cloths.

4. Determine the number of man hours you will need to complete the job. You should know from past work about how many square feet your workers can complete in an hour. Divide the total square footage to be completed by their average rate of work. For example, if I know I can paint roughly 150 square feet in an hour and the job is for 2,000 square feet, that's 13.3 hours of labor I need to account for. I should also include time for prep work such as taping trim and sanding or patching the walls, if needed.

5. Multiply the number of hours of labor needed by what you pay your workers. For example, if you pay them $12 an hour for labor and you've estimated it will take 18 total man hours to complete the work, your total labor cost is $216 no matter how many workers you use on the job.

6. Add the costs for paint, materials and labor to get the total of what the job will cost you to complete.

Tags: square feet, square footage, feet feet, total square, total square footage, will cost, will need

Fix Peeling Spray Texture On Ceiling

Spray texture on a ceiling can be of various types, including popcorn texture and knockdown texture. Normally, a texture is applied to a ceiling to make the ceiling more visually appealing, or to cover any surface defects on the ceiling. However, the texture itself can develop defects, such as peeling, and may to be fixed. You can perform this repair yourself, as long as there is no possibility of asbestos being in the ceiling texture material.

Instructions

1. Cover any furniture in the immediate area near the peeling ceiling with plastic sheets. Remove any curtains or drapes, along with any wall artwork, near the peeling ceiling area. Tape plastic sheets along the edge where the ceiling meets the wall, with the sheets hanging down to the floor. Be sure the plastic covers any nearby windows.

2. Place drop cloths on the floor underneath the peeling area, and place a step ladder underneath the peeling spot.

3. Put on goggles and a dust mask as face protection. Climb the ladder, and wipe the peeling area with a wet sponge, to soften the texture.

4. Scrape away the peeling ceiling texture down to the smooth drywall surface underneath it, using a ceiling texture scraper. Scrape the texture from ceiling corners with a small putty knife. Scrape an area about 3 inches around the perimeter of the peeling spot.

5. Wipe away any remaining debris from the ceiling, using a rag. Examine the ceiling for any signs of water damage or water stains. Make any repairs, as necessary.

6. Coat the ceiling area where you removed the texture with primer, using a paint brush or roller to apply the primer. Allow the primer time to dry, according to the manufacturer's instructions.

7. Put on rubber or latex gloves. Spray an aerosol-spray texture onto the scraped ceiling spot, overlapping the outside perimeter just a little. Avoid spraying too much texture in one spot.

8. Glide a drywall taping knife along the sprayed area to scrape away any over-spray, so that it matches the rest of the ceiling texture.

Tags: ceiling texture, peeling ceiling, ceiling area, from ceiling, near peeling, near peeling ceiling, peeling area

Wire A Harbor Breeze Fan

Wiring your ceiling fan properly will ensure the lighting and fan functions work as they should.

Lowe's home improvement stores offer Harbor Breeze as their store brand ceiling fans. Although the store also offers installation of any ceiling fan it sells, you can save money by putting in the unit yourself. Perhaps the most daunting part of the process is wiring the fan, as it is also the most potentially dangerous aspect of installing the fan. As long as you follow basic safety measures, you safely can wire a Harbor Breeze fan with little previous knowledge of the process.

Instructions

Grounding Wire (All Installations)

1. Turn off power to the room or circuit in which the ceiling fan will be installed. Flip the breaker switch or turn power off to the entire home if you're not sure which circuit is involved.

2. Locate the green wire on the fan's downrod. Strip 3/4 inch of insulation from the wire's end. Also strip 3/4 inch of insulation from the end of the green wire on the mounting bracket. Twist the ends together with your pliers, then snip off the tips.

3. Attach one of the included wire nuts to the connection by screwing it clockwise over the twisted bare wires.

4. Apply electrical tape to the connection, taping the nuts and wires together and ensuring no bare wires or strands of wire can be seen.

Chain-Controlled Fan and Light

5. Verify that the electricity is off to the circuit or room in which you are working. Flip the breaker or turn electricity off to the entire home.

6. Strip 3/4 inch of the insulation from the white wires coming from the downrod and mounting bracket. Twist the ends together with pliers, snipping off the tips.

7. Strip 3/4 inch off the insulation on the blacks wires on the downrod and mounting bracket. Also strip 3/4 inch of insulation from the end of the blue wire on the mounting bracket. Twist the three ends together with pliers, and snip the tips off.

8. Twist a wire nut on each of the exposed tips, turning it clockwise. One nut will cover the white connection, and one will cover the black/blue connection. Tape the nuts to the wires with electrical tape, ensuring no exposed wire remains.

Chain-Controlled Fan, Switch-Controlled Light or Separate Switch-Controlled Fan and Light

9. Check the circuit breaker to the circuit or room in which you are working. Flip the breaker off to the portion of your home in question, or turn electricity off for the entire structure.

10. Strip 3/4 inch of the insulation on both black wires, the one on the downrod and the one on the mounting bracket. Twist the ends together with pliers, snipping off the tips.

11. Strip 3/4 inch of the insulation from the white wires coming from both the downrod and mounting bracket. Twist the ends together with pliers, snipping off the tips.

12. Strip 3/4 inch of the insulation from the blue wires coming from both the downrod and mounting bracket. Twist the ends together with pliers, snipping off the tips.

13. Cover each individual connection with the included wire nuts, turning them clockwise. One nut will cover the white wire connection, one will cover the black wire connection and one will cover the blue wire connection. Tape each nut to its set of wires with electrical tape, taking care to cover all exposed wires.

Tags: inch insulation, mounting bracket, bracket Twist, ends together, ends together with, inch insulation from

Estimate Acoustic Ceilings

Acoustical ceiling tiles are typically installed on a dropped grid that hangs from the existing ceiling rafters. To correctly estimate the amount of tiles needed, the width and length of the ceiling need to be measured. While some rooms are exactly square, with even measurements, most are not. This means you'll need to cut some of the ceiling tiles to fit the room. Taking these measurements ahead of time not only helps estimate how many tiles you need, but it also helps you estimate the amount of work required.

Instructions

1. Measure the width and length of each ceiling tile. Most tiles are 12-by-12 inches, but some may be larger.

2. Measure the length and width of the entire ceiling. Get the measurements in inches to make the conversion process easier.

3. Determine how many whole tiles you'll need. If you have a room that's 130 inches wide by 145 inches long, you'll need 11 rows of 12 tiles each, or 132 tiles total, if they're sized at 12-by-12 inches. You'll need to trim the edge tiles around the room to fit the space.

4. Figure in broken tiles and mistakes. Acoustical ceiling tiles can break during transportation. You may also make mistakes when trimming the tiles. Factor this in to your estimation to save having to go back and get more tiles later. Add 10 percent to your figure to be on the safe side. Using the above example, that would mean ordering 145 tiles total, or 13 extra tiles.

Tags: ceiling tiles, 12-by-12 inches, Acoustical ceiling, Acoustical ceiling tiles, estimate amount, helps estimate, tiles need

Fix A Rotten Rv Roof From The Inside

Fixing Your Roof from the Inside may be Practical if You are Not at Home

Dry rot is a fungus that begins in wood when it is exposed to sitting water for long periods of time. For RV owners it can be the beginning of a nightmare, as the fungus will spread from the point where the water leaked to other parts of the frame. The roof is the most common place for dry rot to begin. You can stop dry rot by removing and replacing that section of the roof as soon as you notice the problem. Better yet, you can fix a rotten RV roof from the inside, so you don't have to remove the roof itself.

Instructions

1. Remove the finish ceiling panels from the area you need to fix. The finish panels are attached to the plywood of your roof by a type of nail that is usually covered with a decorative head. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry the nails out and remove the finish panel to expose the insulation and roof behind it.

2. Remove the insulation. Cut it out of the area with a box knife so you only remove the insulation in the area that needs repair. Discard any insulation that is water-damaged.

3. Score around the area to be removed with a box knife. Use a ruler to keep your cuts straight and cut into the wood, just beyond the area with dry rot. Keep cutting along the same line until your cuts are almost deep enough to go through the wood. This is easier than it sounds because the dry rot will have significantly weakened the wood and you will find it easy to make the cuts with a box knife.

4. Pry the section your just scored out of the roof using a small pry bar. Set the tip of your pry bar into the mark you scored and tap the bar with a hammer to drive it completely through the wood before prying. Work slowly and carefully; you want to pull the damaged piece of the roof out without ripping off parts of the rest. Remove all of the damaged wood.

5. Apply your boric acid fungicide to the edges of wood around the section that you just cut out. This will prevent any further dry rot fungus that may have begun to infect other areas from developing.

6. Cut a piece of 3/4 plywood to fit in the repair area.

7. Attach the metal mending plates to the new piece of plywood using a drill and wood screws. You want to line the plates up so half of the plate is screwed to the new wood and the other half of the plate extends beyond the edge (and will be screwed into the wood surrounding the repair area). You should have at least one plate per side, but two (one placed near the corner of each side) are better.

8. Raise the new piece of plywood into place and attach it to the roof by screwing mending plates into the existing roof.

9. Replace the insulation in that area. If you have problems getting it to stay up by just tucking it into the existing insulation, place a screw or two to hold it in place. Reinstall your finish ceiling panels, and you are done.

Tags: piece plywood, with knife, area with, ceiling panels, finish ceiling