Friday, December 31, 2010

Replace A Ceiling Fan With A Standard Light Fixture

Swapping out a ceiling fan with a standard light fixture is a relatively easy project, since you can use the same electrical box and circuit wiring to secure and connect the new fixture. If installed properly, a ceiling fan is mounted to a special heavy-duty electrical box that is fastened directly to a ceiling joist or secured between two joists with a metal brace or piece of lumber blocking. This setup is strong enough for most light fixtures; just be sure to give the mounting a thorough inspection before hanging the fixture. Because ceiling fans can be quite heavy, it's a good idea to have a helper on hand for removing the fan and hanging the new fixture.








Instructions


1. Turn off the power to the fan's circuit at the home's service panel (breaker box). Test the fan to confirm the power is off.


2. Remove the fan blades, light bulbs, and any other parts to simplify removal. Loosen and slide down the decorative cover at the ceiling to expose the electrical box. Test the wires with a circuit tester to confirm the power is off, then disconnect the fan wires from the circuit wires by unscrewing the wire nuts (plastic wire connectors).


3. Remove any mounting bolts, support brackets, anchors or other fasteners to remove the fan completely.


4. Install the mounting strap (if applicable) for the new fixture onto the electrical box. Connect the circuit wires to the fixture's wire leads or screw terminals following the manufacturer's wiring diagram. Carefully tuck the wires into the electrical box and mount the fixture as directed.








5. Restore power to the circuit and test the fixture.

Tags: circuit wires, confirm power, hanging fixture, power circuit

Paint A Styrofoam Ceiling

With acrylic emulsion paint, you can colorize a bland styrofoam ceiling.








Suspended Styrofoam ceiling panels are low-cost while still providing good sound and heat insulation. Unfortunately, Styrofoam ceilings aren't always conducive to a room's overall aesthetic. If you want to update your Styrofoam ceiling panels with fresh color, you need to use the right supplies. Some types of paint contain solvents that attack Styrofoam, causing it to bubble and melt.


Instructions


1. Set up an A-frame ladder underneath your Styrofoam ceiling.


2. Remove the ceiling tiles. Styrofoam pieces are usually not attached to the ceiling frame in any way. The ceiling tiles are removable by lifting them upward then twisting the panel until it fits through the open hole. Reposition the ladder as necessary to comfortably reach each tile. Don't risk leaning off the side of the ladder to reach a section of the ceiling.


3. Place the panels face-up on a large plastic sheet.


4. Roll acrylic emulsion paint onto the panels with a medium-nap roller. Acrylic emulsion paints are available at some hardware stores and almost all art supply stores. Emulsion paints with acrylic resin are safe for use on Styrofoam. Other paints damage Styrofoam surfaces.


5. Apply a second coat if necessary after two hours. Acrylic emulsion paint often covers in just one coat, but you may need an extra one if there are any bare patches.


6. Reinstall the Styrofoam ceiling tiles after the final coat of paint has dried for 24 hours.

Tags: ceiling tiles, emulsion paint, your Styrofoam ceiling, Acrylic emulsion, acrylic emulsion, acrylic emulsion paint, ceiling panels

Thursday, December 30, 2010

Wire Ceiling Fans With Red Conductors

The red wire in a ceiling fan with lights is the hot wire for the lights.


A ceiling fan with a light kit can serve two purposes, keeping a room ventilated and well-lit at the same time. Wiring one to a wall switch is not much more complicated than wiring a simple light fixture, but you have three options, and the connections depend on which option you choose. You can wire the lights and fans together to a single switch, you can wire them to separate switches or you can bypass the switch altogether for the lights and control them with a pull-chain. The red wire is usually the hot wire for the lights.


Instructions


Wiring the Fan and Lights to the Same Switch


1. Turn off the breaker that controls the circuit to the switch. If you're not sure which breaker it is, test the wires with a non-contact voltage tester. Touch the tester to all of the wires within the box, and turn off breakers until the tester light stays off.








2. Install a single-gang switch box and run a length of three-strand electrical cable from the switch box to the electrical box for the fan. Use the same gauge of cable as the live circuit cable. Pull the ends through the backs of both boxes, and then cut off 6 inches of sheathing from both ends with a utility knife and strip 1/2 inch from the ends of the insulated wires with a wire stripper.


3. Connect the black wire from the house circuit to the top brass terminal of a switch. You can either loosen the terminal screw with a screwdriver, hook the wire around it and tighten it, or you can push the end of the wire into the self-clamping location behind the terminal screw. Connect the black wire from the fan to the bottom brass terminal in the same way.


4. Join the white wires by twisting them together with pliers. Twist them clockwise, and then screw on a wire cap clockwise to hold them securely. Twist the bare ground wires together with an extra bare wire, six inches long. Attach the extra ground wire around the green ground screw on the switch, then tighten the screw.


5. Twist the red and black wires from the fan together with the black wire from the switch. Twist the white wires together, and then twist the green one from the fan with the bare one from the circuit cable. Secure all sets of wires by screwing a wire cap onto each set.


Wiring the Fan and Lights to Different Switches


6. Install a two-gang electrical box large enough to accommodate two switches. Run a length of four-strand electrical cable of the same gauge as the circuit cable between the switch and the fan. Pull both ends through the backs of the boxes and pull the circuit cable through the back of the switch box. Strip sheathing from the cables and expose the ends of the wires.








7. Back-feed the black circuit wire into the hole behind the top brass terminal of a switch and the black wire from the fan into the hole behind the bottom one. Connect the red wire from the fan to the bottom brass terminal of a second switch, either back-feeding or hooking it around the terminal screw.


8. Cut open a 6-inch length of electrical cable with a utility knife and remove the black and bare wires. Strip the ends of the black wire and hook one end around the top terminal screw of the first switch and tighten the screw. Back-feed the other end into the hole behind the top terminal screw of the second switch.


9. Twist two 6-inch lengths of bare wire together with the two ground wires in the electrical box. Attach one of the extra ground wires to the green ground screw on one of the switches and do the same with the other wire and switch. Tighten both screws. Twist the white wires in the box together and screw on a wire cap.


10. Twist the black wire from the fan together with the black wire from the switch, the red wire from the fan and the red wire from the switch, the white wire from the fan and the white wire from the switch and finally the green wire from the fan and the bare wire from the switch. Screw a wire cap onto each pair of wires.


Bypassing the Switch for the Lights


11. Install a single-gang switch box and run four-strand cable to the fan.


12. Back-feed the black circuit cable into the hole behind the top terminal of a switch. Connect the black wire from the fan to the bottom terminal in the same way. Hook the red wire around the top terminal screw and tighten the screw. Twist the white wires together and cap them. Twist and cap the ground wires together along with an extra wire to connect to the green screw on the switch. Attach the extra wire to the green screw on the switch.


13. Twist together the black pair of wires, the red pair and the white pair at the fan. Twist the fan's green wire with the bare wire from the circuit cable. Cap all pairs of wires.

Tags: wire from, black wire, black wire from, circuit cable, from switch

Hang A Pressed Board Mirror From The Ceiling

Pressboard is a dense combination of sawdust and wood particles that are glued together, and placed under high heat and pressure to fuse them together. It is a dense and often heavy material that is used in furniture construction and industrial application. Pressboard is not ideal for hanging from a ceiling because of its weight, but one advantage of a pressboard mirror is that you don't need an additional plywood backing that other mirrors require. As a result, you can hang a pressboard mirror above your bed if you are careful.


Instructions


1. Climb a ladder so you have easier access to your ceiling. This allows you to find the ceiling joists without straining.


2. Run a stud finder over the ceiling to locate the ceiling joists. The joists provide support for the screws needed to hold the mirror in place so it doesn't fall.


3. Ask an assistant to hold the mirror up against the ceiling so its pressboard frame is against the joists.


4. Drill long screws through the pressboard into the ceiling joists every 5 or 6 inches around to ensure that the mirror is supported fully.


5. Apply an epoxy glue to the pressboard to attach a frame to the mirror if you wish to do so. Follow all instructions for your individual frame for best results.

Tags: ceiling joists, hold mirror, pressboard mirror

Hang Pendant Lights

Hang a pendant light over your work area.


Pendant lighting is commonly used as task lighting since they are a single bulb fixture. Pendant lights are often found over kitchen islands, breakfast tables and bars. The pendant light concentrates the light onto the work area, while providing decoration in your home. There are many different styles and colors of pendant lighting and finding the perfect pendant light to hang in your home will be the hardest part of your project.


Instructions


1. Turn off the circuit that provides electricity to the pendant light by turning off the breaker inside the main electrical panel.


2. Assemble your pendant light following the directions of the manufacturer. The chain or rod attaches to the pendant, and the wiring threads through it. Attach the screw collar loop provided with your pendant to the opposite end of the chain or rod.


3. Thread the nut onto the screw collar loop and install the canopy against the nut. The screw collar loop has exterior threads and the nut twist onto those threads. The nut holds the canopy against the ceiling after installing the pendant.


4. Twist the nipple into the opposite end of the screw collar loop. The screw collar loop has interior threads that the nipple twists into. The nipple is a short hollow tube with threads down its entire exterior length.


5. Attach the fixture crossbar to the opposite end of the nipple. The fixture crossbar is a four-inch piece of metal about one inch wide with a circular hole in the center for the nipple and two holes or slots on either side of the circular hole.


6. Hang your pendant light to the electrical box in the ceiling by attaching the fixture crossbar with screws provided with your pendant's mounting hardware. Thread the pendant wiring through the screw collar loop nipple and fixture crossbar. Locate the black, white and bare copper wires inside the electrical box.


7. Wrap the bare copper wire from the electrical box around the green ground screw located on the fixture cross bar and tighten the screw. Connect the black wire from the ceiling electrical box to the black wire from the pendant by twisting an orange wire connector around both wires. Repeat this connection for the white wire from the electrical box and the white wire from the pendant.


8. Push all wiring inside the electrical box and hold the canopy against the ceiling with one hand. With your other hand, twist the nut on the screw collar loop until it secures the canopy to the ceiling.

Tags: collar loop, screw collar, screw collar loop, pendant light, wire from

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Install Metal Ceiling Panels

Ceiling panels are a great alternative to common painted ceilings. Ordinary ceilings often look plain, bare and too simple, so adding ceiling panels can improve a space and make it more interesting. Metal ceiling panels are an especially interesting element, since they lend themselves well to both traditional and contemporary interiors. These panels come in a variety of metals, patterns and sizes. When it comes to quality and price ratio, tin ceilings are one of the best options available.


Instructions


1. Measure the width and the length of your ceiling to get its surface area and therefore the number of metal ceiling panels you will need.


2. Prepare a base for attaching the tin ceiling panels. The best and the most inexpensive underlayment is common plywood. Attach the plywood to your primary ceiling using a power drill and 2-½-inch decking screws. Make sure to mount the panels to the ceiling joists only. Drill small exploratory holes to find one joist before you do anything else. Then you will know that the next joist is 16 inches away and so on for the entire ceiling area. Mark the joist locations with chalk so you know where to drill for the decking screws. Continue laying the plywood until the whole ceiling is covered. If you don’t have a friend to help you hold the panels until you attach them, use a T-brace made from 2x4s.


3. Mark the layout lines for the metal ceiling panel on the plywood with a pencil. This will help you plan the disposition of the panel and will show you if you need to cut any in order to make a perfect fit. If you need smaller tin panel pieces, use tin snips, a marker and a straight edge to cut the metal.








4. Lay the tin panels on the plywood base by nailing them with a nail gun. Start from one corner, and make sure to follow the guidelines you made on the plywood. Always leave one side unfastened so you can tuck in the edge of the neighboring panel underneath. Continue nailing the tin panels onto the plywood until you cover the whole ceiling.


5. Seal the seams between the tin ceiling panels using a caulking gun. Make sure to use a high-quality clear silicone caulk for this task.


6. Finish your ceiling with tin molding in the corners and on the edges. Every manufacturer has a palette of various moldings and cornices designed to be compatible with certain tin panels. Choose the decorative cornice from your tin panel’s collection to achieve a matching and harmonious look.

Tags: ceiling panels, decking screws, Make sure, metal ceiling, plywood until, whole ceiling

Hang Paper Lanterns From The Ceiling

Paper lanterns add a festive ambience to any gathering.


Festive paper lanterns convey a sense of lighthearted and carefree enjoyment to almost any special occasion. These decorative accents can be obtained inexpensively at party supply and craft stores in various designs and in a multitude of colors. Many can be illuminated with the use of small LED lights, which are safer than candles, but still produce a luminous glow during an evening of entertainment and celebration. Although paper lanterns usually have flat bases that can be arranged on tables or along walkways, they can also be suspended to great effect. Some lanterns are packaged with small hooks from which they can be hung, but it is not always clear attach the hooks themselves to a ceiling or above a roomful of guests. Fortunately, you can use simple and economical items to hang your paper lanterns from the ceiling in only a few minutes, allowing you plenty of time to oversee the rest of the last-minute party details before your guests arrive.


Instructions








1. Find out how high your ceiling is in the room where your party will be held. Remember that no suspended lantern should hang lower than 1 foot above the extended arm's reach of your tallest guest. This estimated number is different for everyone. Keep in mind that female guests may be wearing high-heeled shoes. This general rule is used to keep your decorations from being in the way of your guests as they move about the room. Lanterns can always be hung higher, but they should not be much lower, unless that is the effect desired.


2. Use scissors to cut varying lengths of the fishing line, taking into account that the addition of the suspended lantern will extend how low the ornament will hang. For example, if you have determined that you have ceilings that are 12 feet from the floor, and your tallest guest, in shoes, is about 6-feet tall, then the bottom of your lowest lantern should not hang any lower than about 10 feet above the floor, or 2 feet from the ceiling. You can use the following formula to determine the appropriate height of the lantern: 6 feet (height of tallest guest in shoes) + 3 feet (average extended arm's length) + 1 foot (additional clearance) - the height of the ceiling. You can choose to subtract from this number the height of the lantern itself, especially if your lanterns are large. This means that if you have a dozen lanterns, you can cut four lengths of fishing line to 2 feet, four lengths to 1 1/2 feet, and four lengths to 1 foot in length. This can also be done with satin ribbons. Fishing line will be virtually invisible in low light, giving the appearance of the lanterns floating in mid-air, and satin ribbons will gently reflect any ambient light.


3. Attach the hooks, if included, to the lanterns. If none have been included in the packaging, place a piece of clear tape at the top of the lantern, and use a hole puncher to pierce a hole through the center of the tape. Repeat this directly across from the first taped hole. The tape reinforces the thin paper of the lantern and prevents tearing. Slide a small paper clip through each of the holes to create "hooks."


4. Take the individual lengths of fishing line or ribbon and tie them to the hooks by making a simple knot or two. From this point, you have at least two choices. You can use tape to attach the free ends of the ribbons or fishing line strings to the ceiling so that you create a grouping of lanterns that suspend directly from it. A second option would be to use a tape measure to determine the span of the room. Cut a long length of fishing line to this room's size, plus 2 inches. Secure the fishing line on each side with tape, tightly and horizontally against the ceiling at either end of the room, or an inch or two below it. Hang the lantern hooks on this string at even intervals, allowing the lanterns to hang freely at the end of their vertical ribbons or fishing line strings. If you are using paper clips instead of prefabricated hooks, you might want to thread the extra-long fishing line string through the clips before securing the line across the length of the room. After the line has been secured, you can evenly space your paper lanterns to hang them beneath the ceiling.

Tags: fishing line, four lengths, lengths fishing, lengths fishing line, tallest guest

Cut Suspended Ceiling Light Panels

A utility knife is an essential tool for this job.


Suspended ceilings are often used in basement or utility room remodeling and finishing projects. Suspended ceilings are relatively easy to install and can be easily modified with different tiles at a later date. Suspended ceilings aren't designed to hold heavy loads, so lights are often mounted above the suspended ceiling and semi-clear light panels are positioned below them. In some cases, you may need to cut the light panel to let it match the size of the opening in the suspended ceiling. You need to take some care in how you do this to prevent cracking of the plastic.


Instructions


1. Measure the opening in the suspended ceiling where the light panel will be placed. Measure from the inside of the lips of the suspended ceiling stringers, not just the visible part of the opening.


2. Transfer the measurements to your light panel, Draw the cut lines onto the panel with a straight edge and a felt tip marker.


3. Place masking tape on the inside edges of the panel -- the part that will be installed in the ceiling.


4. Draw your utility knife with a steady pressure along the cut lines, using your straight edge as a guide. Your goal is to score a straight and accurate line into the plastic of the panel. Draw the knife along the line several times until you've made a significant cut into the plastic.


5. Grasp the panel on either side of the score mark and gradually bend the plastic until the panel snaps at the score mark.








6. Remove the masking tape from the panel and install it in the ceiling.

Tags: light panel, Suspended ceilings, into plastic, masking tape, opening suspended

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Factors To Determine An International Pricing Strategy

Setting proper prices is a difficult task








In an era of globalization, one of the challenges that companies face when selling their products abroad is set appropriate prices. Most of the same factors used in setting prices in a single country are taken into account when formulating an international pricing strategy, but many factors often are overlooked in national pricing and must be given special attention when moving into global markets.


National Market Size


One of the main factors to determine an international pricing strategy is the size of the national market, which affects prices in different ways. A company will often attempt to use the potential volume of sales to estimate the price at which they will need to market their product to break even. For larger countries with the potential for more sales, this price may be set lower; for smaller countries, the price may be higher.


Exchange Rate


Exchange rates also play a significant role in setting prices. Due to discrepancies in the value of different currency, similar products in different countries may be priced differently. This has to do not just with demand for that particular product, but with macroeconomic demand for national currencies, which affects inflation and, by extension, pricing. Companies often have to adjust prices due to fluctuations in exchange rates.








Cultural Differences


One of the more complicated factors in international pricing is cultural variations between companies. Cultural variations that affect pricing can take many forms, most of which have to do with how members of certain cultures perceive the value of certain products, which in turn affects how much they are willing to pay for them. For example, in the United States women's handbags often are seen as a status symbol. Female consumers, therefore, often are willing to pay high prices. In other cultures, however, handbags are considered more functional, meaning they can only command a significantly lower price.


Regulations


When setting prices in other countries, companies must research all national regulations relevant to their product. Many countries set price ceilings as well as price floors on certain products. For example, in Nigeria (a large oil producer) the price of gasoline and other petroleum derivatives is capped. Even if the product a company is selling does not have price restrictions, regulations placed on the prices of similar products may affect potential demand and thus price.


Distribution


Before setting a price, companies also must consider the distribution network by which they are selling their products overseas. For example, if a company is selling a product through franchise licenses, they will likely price their products differently than if they were selling them wholesale to local distributors, as their profit structure would be different.

Tags: international pricing, setting prices, their products, certain products, company selling

Clean A High Ceiling Fan







Use a ladder to clean high ceiling fans.








Ceiling fans accumulate lots of dust and debris. The dust starts to gather on the top of the ceiling fan blades where it is not noticeable. Unfortunately a dirty ceiling fan rarely becomes noticeable to the naked eye until the grime and dust have spread to the bottom of the ceiling fan blades and across the light fixture. To prevent dust and dirt from accumulating on your ceiling fan and spreading around the room when the fan is turned on, clean the device regularly.


Instructions


1. Place a ladder underneath the ceiling fan in a position that will allow you to reach the ceiling fan blades and motor with your hands.


2. Turn the ceiling fan off using the light switch.


3. Locate a dusting device with an extension pole and a dust removing cleaning spray. Climb the ladder, and place these items on the ladder shelf.


4. Spray a liberal amount of cleaning spray on the top and bottom of the ceiling fan blade closest to you. Swipe the duster across the full length of the top and bottom of the fan blade. Run the duster along each side of the blade. Repeat until no dust or grime remains on the blade.


5. Use your hand to push the clean blade away from you, being careful to use gentle pressure. Grab onto the next blade, and hold it steady until the ceiling fan has stopped moving.


6. Clean the top, bottom and sides of the blade using the duster and cleaning spray. Once the blade is clean, use your hand to move to the next blade. Repeat until every blade is clean.


7. Use the extension pole on the duster to clean the top and sides of the ceiling fan motor. Gently swipe the duster across the motor until it is clean.


8. Use the extension pole to clean the light fixture. Run the duster across each piece of the light fixture assembly until the entire unit is clean

Tags: ceiling blades, cleaning spray, duster across, extension pole, light fixture, blade clean, blade Repeat

Monday, December 27, 2010

Hang Klipsch Rear Channel Speakers







Hang Klipsch Rear Channel Speakers


Klipsch speakers are well-regarded by audio enthusiasts for their sound reproduction. Klipsch builds speakers for a variety of applications, including surround-sound systems. Positioning the speakers properly in a surround-sound system is essential for the best audio reproduction, and the rear speakers are often difficult to position properly. One solution is to hang the speakers, using brackets to position them.








Instructions


1. Determine the location where you wish to hang the rear speakers. Typically you'll want to position the speakers somewhat behind the main listening position, and then aim them downward at the listeners.


2. Hold the base of the first speaker bracket against the ceiling in the spot where you wish to mount it. Use a pencil to mark the locations where the mounting screws will go through the bracket's holes and enter the ceiling. You may want to have someone assist you in doing this.


3. If necessary, screw hollow-wall or ceiling anchors into the ceiling at the points you marked in Step 2. Use hollow-wall anchors if the ceiling is hollow behind the points where you need to secure the screws, such as in the case of a drywall-covered ceiling. If in doubt about what types of anchors to use, then check the instructions in the speaker bracket manual.


4. Secure the bracket to the ceiling, using the hardware supplied or recommended by the bracket manufacturer. When the bracket is placed, unscrew the pivoting arm of the bracket by loosening the screw holding it on.


5. Place the speaker-mount-end of the bracket against the back of the speaker. It's best to place the bracket in the center of the rear of the speaker. Using 1/4-inch wood screws, attach it to the speaker, using a screwdriver. Note that sometimes speakers have pre-drilled mounting-screw holes.


6. Attach the speaker mount arm of the bracket back to the portion of the speaker bracket mounted in the ceiling, and adjust the angle as necessary to aim your Klipsch speaker toward your listening location.


7. Repeat Steps 2 through 6 with the other speaker and speaker bracket.

Tags: speaker bracket, bracket against, Channel Speakers, Hang Klipsch, Hang Klipsch Rear, Klipsch Rear

Hang A Pressboard Mirror From The Ceiling







Add a new perspective to your room by hanging a pressboard mirror from your ceiling. Pressboard mirrors have a backing made with wood byproducts. Most mirrors that have this type of backing are thin and sturdy, which make them well-suited for hanging from a flat ceiling. One of the best ways to hang a mirror from the ceiling is to use specialized mirror adhesive, which is moisture resistant, flexible and permanent. Also, this type of project is simple enough for those who do not consider themselves handy.


Instructions


1. Move out any furniture underneath the area where you want to hang the pressboard mirror. You need this space to work and set up your ladder.


2. Open an 8-foot ladder underneath the place you want the mirror. Spray an all-purpose cleaner on the ceiling to clean the area. Wipe the cleaner off with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary. Allow the area to dry.


3. Mark on the ceiling where you want to hang the mirror using a metal measuring tape and pencil. Measure the size of the pressboard mirror and mark on the ceiling where the top and bottom of the mirror needs to go.








4. Sand the area where you plan on hanging the mirror with coarse-grit sandpaper in circular motions. Most ceilings are painted, and the sandpaper creates a rough surface for the adhesive the bind to. Wipe off any dust with a dry, soft cloth.


5. Clean the mirror with an all-purpose cleaner and wipe it off with a cloth. Turn the mirror over so it is upside down. Cut the 1/2-inch plastic tip off the tube of mirror adhesive with scissors. Poke a hole into the top with a nail to open it.


6. Squeeze 3/8-inch dots of mirror adhesive in rows over the entire backing of the mirror. Place the adhesive beads five inches apart starting from the edges.


7. Press the mirror firmly into place on the ceiling within 15 minutes of applying the adhesive. Tape the mirror to the ceiling with removable duct tape. Cut strips approximately 3 feet long and press them evenly across the mirror and onto the ceiling. Allow the adhesive to dry for 24 hours.


8. Remove the tape and clean the mirror.

Tags: mirror adhesive, pressboard mirror, all-purpose cleaner, area where, ceiling where, hang mirror, mirror from

Hang Condenser Microphones

Hanging condenser microphones with pulleys.


Placing microphones above the source is a great way to capture an authentic recording, because sound naturally travels up and away from instruments. This also allows you to get rid of bulky microphone stands that can get bumped or knocked over. You can use an antique (pre-electricity) lighting trick to rig up your condenser microphones to the ceiling--if you don't have the money to buy an adjustable ceiling-mounted boom.








Instructions


1. Determine the exact spot that you want to hang your condenser microphone from the ceiling. Use the pencil to mark that spot. Set the microphone cable down by the wall from which you want to run the cable to the pulley system (preferably nearest the PA system).


2. Use the electric screwdriver to install the hanging pulley directly on top of the ceiling mark.


3. Move the ladder about one to two feet over towards the wall where you set the microphone cable down. Use a pencil to mark a spot on the ceiling here.


4. Use the electric screwdriver to install the wall-mounted pulley directly to the ceiling. Place it on top of your second mark.


5. Use the electric screwdriver to install the adjustable wench onto the wall where you set the microphone cable down. Set the wench at a comfortable chest or waist level.


6. Run the microphone cable from the wall through the wench and into the wall-mounted pulley. Pull out enough extra cable to reach the second pulley.


7. Run the microphone cable through the hanging pulley. Pull out enough cable so that it rests on the ground.


8. Place the two-pound hanging weight between the pulleys. Adjust the slack and get the right microphone height by using the wench from the wall.

Tags: microphone cable, cable down, electric screwdriver, electric screwdriver install, microphone cable down

Friday, December 24, 2010

What To Do When My Ceiling Fan Is Making A Squeaky Noise

What to Do When My Ceiling Fan Is Making a Squeaky Noise


If you have a ceiling fan that is squeaking as it turns, then you know how annoying the problem can be. Even the slightest noise, when repeated nearly 100 times per minute, can grate on your nerves. Fixing a noisy fan can be a simple process in some cases, depending on the underlying cause.


Brand New Fans


If your fan is newly installed, a squeak is sometimes related to a manufacturing or shipping issue. Check to see if all of the fan blades on your fan are made identically. They should be. Even the slightest difference in the way a blade was cut can throw the unit off balance and cause unnecessary stress on the motor bearings. That stress can lead to a squeaky noise.


The arms that mount to the blades may be bent. Check to see it the arms were bent from packaging or shipping. This too can cause an imbalance and squeaking. If your fan is not in proper condition, you should disassemble it and return it to the store.








Loose Screws


Loose screws may be the cause of a noisy ceiling fan, according to Ceiling-Fan-Wizard.com. The screws that attach the blades to the arms of the fan can loosen during normal use of some fans and cause a clicking, rattling or squeaking sound when the blades become loose.


Use the appropriate type and size of screwdriver to tighten all the screws in your fan. Do not overtighten them, or you could strip them out. Turn your fan on high speed, and see if the noise stops. In some cases this may be the only cause of the noise.


Check the screws that mount the fan to the ceiling as well. This could be part of the problem.


Off Balance


Off-balance fans put pressure on the bearings in the fan motor, and a squeak can develop. This problem can also wear out a fan motor prematurely.


Clean the fan to remove any accumulated dust or debris from the tops of the blades. Even the weight of dust could throw the fan off balance, according to Ceiling-Fan-Wizard.com. More likely you will have to purchase a balancing kit to fix the problem.


Locate the place where the fan blades need weight by placing a weighted clip on different areas of the blades until a balance is found. This is strictly trial and error, and it may require some patience.


Once you have the spot figured out, place the adhesive weights from the balancing kit on the tops of the fan blades according to manufacturer's recommendations. You could use pennies and duct tape to balance the fan without a kit, but this may take even more trial and error to get the location and weight in the proper place.


Motor Problems


If the squeak is coming from the bearings in the fan motor and balancing attempts have been unsuccessful in stopping the noise, the motor may be damaged. This motor condition can cause overheating and possible fire hazards. The fan should be replaced as soon as possible.

Tags: according Ceiling-Fan-Wizard, bearings motor, Ceiling Making, Ceiling Making Squeaky, Even slightest, Making Squeaky, Making Squeaky Noise

Hang Floor To Ceiling Wire Shelving

A screwdriver is one of the tools you'll need for this job.








Wire shelving offers several advantages when used in closets or pantries. The shelving is light and strong relative to its weight, and the thin profile of the shelves maximizes storage space. The open design of the shelves minimizes dust and dirt buildup as well. Proper installation of a floor-to-ceiling shelving system is important for both safety and durability. Proper planning and careful measurements are important components of the job.


Instructions








1. Lay your front supports on the floor. You'll notice that one side of these square metal supports has a series of holes pre-drilled for shelf support hooks. Decide on the number and spacing of the shelves in your shelving system based on these. Screw in shelf support hooks at each of the locations in the shelf supports.


2. Measure the height, from floor to ceiling, of the area where the shelves will be mounted. Cut the front supports to size with a hacksaw if necessary.


3. Place one of the front supports against the wall where the shelves will be installed. Make a pencil mark on the wall at the location of each of the shelf support hooks. Place a level on the marks and draw a horizontal line across the wall at the level of each mark.


4. Drill 1/4-inch holes every 6 inches on each of the lines you've drawn. Insert a hollow wall anchor into each of the holes. Slide a screw through the hole in the shelf support hooks. Place the hook's screw in the anchor and tighten with a screwdriver. Repeat until you have hooks in all the holes on the wall.


5. Clip the back rail of your shelves into the hooks, starting from the lowest shelf. Let the shelves hang freely. Place your front supports in position in front of the shelves. Pull up the front of each shelf, starting at the top, and insert the front rail of the shelf into the hooks on the supports until all the shelves are suspended.

Tags: front supports, shelf support, shelf support hooks, support hooks, each shelf, hooks Place

Hang Fabric From The Ceiling To The Floor

Fabric hung from ceiling floor lengthens a window.


Fabric that stretches from the ceiling to the floor can make your room look taller than it really is, especially if the fabric pools on the floor. Hang a pair of curtains in front of a window from the ceiling to the floor to make the window look taller. If you have a large room, use the fabric as a room divider. It can also serve a purely decorative purpose, hanging against the entire length of a wall.


Instructions








1. Measure the distance from the floor to ceiling. Cut a length of fabric to that length, plus 6 inches for the pocket casing and hem.


2. Determine the width of the fabric based on what you are using it for. For example, if you want the curtain to stretch across a room, measure the distance from wall to wall. If you are using the fabric as a curtain, measure the width of your window and multiply by two for the fabric's width. Cut the fabric to the appropriate width or cut multiple lengths of fabric so that you can stitch them together to make a panel wide enough for the project.


3. Lay the lengths of fabric on top of each other if you're using more than one panel, right sides together. Pin the fabric together on one long side, then sew with a 1/2-inch seam.


4. Fold the sides of the fabric over a 1/2 inch. Also fold the bottom and top edge over a 1/2 inch. Press, then fold the sides and bottom over another 1/2 inch, press again, then pin. Sew along the inside edge. Don't sew the top edge yet.


5. Fold the top edge down 4 1/2 inches, press, pin and then sew to make the pocket casing.


6. Position the ceiling mount curtain rod against the ceiling. Use a level to ensure it is even. Mark where you'll need to drill in the mounting hardware with the pencil.


7. Drill a hole in the ceiling and attach the mounting hardware as needed. Position the rod over the drilled holes and attach to the ceiling with screws.


8. Hang the fabric from the rod and stretch across the width of the window or room as desired.

Tags: ceiling floor, from ceiling, from ceiling floor, ceiling floor make, distance from, fabric that

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Trace A Leak In The Ceiling

Water leaks can cause serious damage in homes and should be traced immediately.


Ceiling leaks are serious problems. If they are ignored, or if the leak is severe, a large part of the ceiling could collapse. If you have noticed water dripping from your ceiling, you need to trace this leak quickly to find the cause and fix it before it can compromise the structure of your home. Ceilings leaks will have one of two causes: roof problems or plumbing problems.


Instructions


Roof Leaks


1. Pay attention to the ceiling when it rains or snows. If you only notice the leaks during adverse weather, this indicate that moisture on the roof is leaking into the attic or crawl space and is seeping through the ceiling.


2. Inspect the attic or crawl space. Locate the spot where water is dripping down. If you notice a hole, stick a pencil or flag through to indicate from the outside where the roof needs to be patched.


3. Check the seals around skylights. These windows often leak if they are not caulked or flashed properly. This is another common cause of ceiling leaks. Apply a fresh bead of caulk around the skylight to prevent more water from dripping down or fix the flashing if it was installed incorrectly.


Plumbing Leaks


4. Observe the ceiling when someone runs water in the bathroom or flushes the toilet. This only applies to two-story homes that have upstairs bathrooms or homes that have plumbing pipes that are routed through the ceiling.


5. Find the pipe that is leaking. Cut away a portion of the ceiling with a utility knife where the leak is occurring. Run the water in the upstairs bathroom again to help you find the leak.


6. Tighten any loose pipe fittings with a pipe wrench. Twist the fittings clockwise to tighten them. If the leak continues, call a professional plumber to fix the pipe. Once the leak is fixed, repair the ceiling.

Tags: attic crawl, attic crawl space, ceiling when, crawl space, dripping down

Start Your Own Glow In The Dark Star Mural Business

The night sky is a fascination but difficult to see clearly in a modern community. Provide glow-in-the-dark star murals as a business venture and a way to reconnect clients to the wonder of the universe. This kind of business is based on the use of simple stenciling and template techniques and glow-in-the-dark paint.








Design the Product


Consider the different views of the night sky---Zodiac, Northern Hemisphere and Southern Hemisphere constellations---there are 88 in all. Begin by creating separate templates of each constellation using card stock. Save a copy of the original artwork on the computer to make new templates as they wear out from use and to enlarge the templates as needed. Punch each star point in the constellation by using the appropriate-size hole punch. The templates can be used separately or combined to create a new ceiling for each client. Use a spatter-paint technique to create the background for the constellations.


Price the Product


Design and price a series of six or more standard ceiling templates to offer clients. For example, offer a zodiac ceiling, a winter solstice sky (at Christmas), a summer solstice sky (for the Fourth of July), spring equinox sky (at Easter), fall equinox sky (for Harvest or Halloween time), or a single constellation from the southern hemisphere (Apus, Phoenix, Chamaeleon) or the northern hemisphere (Orion, Pegasus, Andromeda). Add a price for a custom ceiling option: the night sky on a special date, or a galaxy. Consider different ways to price the product---per square foot of ceiling space painted or per constellation, for example. Estimate the labor involved, the price of the materials used and any obstacles that might make the work more difficult like ceiling height (the purchase or rental of a ladder may be necessary).


Create a Portfolio


Paint a few ceilings to see how the process works before creating a glow-in-the-dark star mural business. Paint a family member's room, create a special custom star mural for a friend or volunteer to paint a mural for a local youth organization. Photograph the result and take a few pictures of the process so that clients can see how the job unfolds. Compile the photos into a portfolio to show potential customers. Design several portfolios: one in a binder format to carry, one for online and one in a DVD or CD format.


Market the Product








Search out local advertising opportunities that cater to a target audience---children, interior decorators and designers, adult sky-watchers. Locate local children's magazines and newspapers to advertise in or events that draw the target audience--including sky-watching groups, educational lectures, eclipses--and advertise in their flier or newsletter. Stimulate interest in glow in the dark murals by advertising at local fairs and festivals. Rent a booth, show photographs of the work, hand out business cards and offer a package deal; for example, one free mural for the purchase of two or two murals for the price of one.

Tags: Consider different, constellation using, glow-in-the-dark star

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Hang Fabric From A Ceiling

Fabric ceilings can hide ceiling damage and improve acoustics.


Whether you want to hide an ugly ceiling, provide subtle ambiance for a party or recreate the feel of the casbah, hanging fabric from the ceiling can add new dimensions to your d cor. Lightweight fabrics work best, so to start look to tulle or sheer and semisheer fabrics -- especially linens, cottons and silks. You can hang heavy fabrics as well, but you will need sturdier hardware to keep it where it belongs, and it may need adjustments around, instead of over, ceiling mounted light fixtures.


Instructions


Hanging Ultra-Light Fabrics and Tulle


1. Screw cup hooks or screw eyes into the ceiling at each corner of the room and at intervals of 3 to 6 feet along the ceiling at the top of the long walls and precisely parallel to one another across the room.


2. String a single line of heavy monofilament fishing line tightly between each pair of hooks, so that you have multiple lines parallel to one another across the entire ceiling.


3. Measure out fabric twice the length of the room for medium depth swags. Use less for shallow swags and more for deep swags.


4. Drape a few feet of cloth across the first line and carry the rest across to drape it over the next line in the sequence. Repeat draping the lines in sequence, one after another to the last line.


5. Adjust the depth of the swags and the lengths of the ends to balance the look.


6. Repeat the entire draping process with other strips of cloth as needed to cover the width of the room.


Hanging Medium to Heavy Weight Fabrics from Joists


7. Find the joists in the ceiling using a stud finder. If they run perpendicular to the direction you plan for the length of your fabric, proceed to step 2. If they run parallel, you will need different hardware and should skip to the next section.


8. Drill pilot holes in the ceiling joists at regular intervals near the tops of the walls and parallel to one another across the room, as for hanging lightweight fabrics. Measure using the spacing of the ceiling joists -- usually 16-inch intervals -- to determine the locations for your hanging hardware. For example, every 32, 48 or 64 inches.


9. Follow the process for hanging lightweight fabrics, but substitute medium to heavy duty screw eyes attached directly to the ceiling joists at the pilot holes, and substitute decorative chain or strong cording for the monofilament lines.


Hanging Medium to Heavy Weight Fabrics from Plaster


10. Follow the procedure for hanging lightweight fabric to decide the locations for your hardware.


11. Drill holes at the marked locations all the way through the plaster of the ceiling.


12. Insert one toggle bolt with decorative hook through each hole and tighten.


13. Use decorative chain or strong cording to support draped fabrics.

Tags: another across, ceiling joists, hanging lightweight, parallel another, parallel another across

Remove Popcorn Ceilings

If you want to get rid of popcorn ceilings, you're not alone. Removing popcorn ceilings makes it to the list of top 10 home-maintenance questions "This Old House" receives. Popcorn ceilings have uneven surfaces that were fashionable in the 1950s. However, people typically consider them an eyesore now. Popcorn ceilings also present a challenge to clean due to their texture. Because of these qualities, popcorn ceilings can drag down the value of a property, according to MSN Real Estate.


Instructions


1. Add 1 tbsp. of liquid detergent and 1 cup of water to a spray bottle. Cover and shake to mix.


2. Spray the soapy water on a 1-square-inch patch of the ceiling. Use a putty knife to remove the popcorn texture, placing the sample into a small plastic bag and sealing the bag.


3. Send the sample to an asbestos-testing laboratory. If you have asbestos in your ceiling, you can't safely remove the popcorn texture yourself. You have to hire an asbestos-abatement contractor to get rid of the ceiling texture. Only attempt to remove the popcorn ceiling yourself if your test comes back negative.


4. Remove all the contents of the room in which you want to remove the popcorn texture. Hang plastic sheets from where the walls meet the ceiling and lay a drop cloth on the floor. The removed popcorn material will fall down, so these precautions help keep your things clean.


5. Spray water on the ceiling with a garden hose to loosen the popcorn texture. Let the ceiling texture absorb the water for 10 to 15 minutes.


6. Scrape off the popcorn texture from the ceiling using a wide taping knife, utility knife or drywall knife. Alternatively, use a specialized ceiling-texture scraper, a long-handled scraping tool with a plastic bag to catch the falling debris. Allow the ceiling to dry.


7. Fill in any holes and imperfections on the ceiling with a joint compound. Let the joint compound dry and sand the ceiling to get a smooth surface.








8. Paint the ceiling with a drywall primer, according to product instructions, and flat ceiling paint. A flat finish hides imperfections better than glossier finishes.

Tags: popcorn texture, ceiling with, remove popcorn, remove popcorn texture, ceiling texture, joint compound

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Install Flush Mount Ceiling Light With Screwon Glass

Installing a flush mount ceiling light with a screw-on glass cover is not as difficult as it may seem. These fixtures can be very inexpensive and are available in a wide variety of styles, from rustic to retro, modern to masculine. They are called flush mount ceiling lights because the mount to the ceiling is flush with the drywall surface, though some designs hang from the ceiling slightly. This is a very do-it-yourself project, so there is no need to call on an electrician. Even a novice can install one in about a half hour.


Instructions


1. Turn the power off to the circuit you will be working on at the circuit breaker, located in the main breaker box. This is the first step to any project that deals with electricity and electrical appliances.


2. Pull the electrical wires out of the electrical box mounted to the ceiling. Strip the outer layer of plastic insulation with an insulation stripper and strip 5/8 inch of insulation off of each separate wire (black, white and green wires) with a pair of wire strippers to expose the copper wire.


3. Remove the light fixture from its packaging and go through the hardware to make sure all of it is there.


4. Hold the fixture up to the ceiling and connect each wire from the electrical box to the corresponding wire on the fixture. Connect each wire with a wire nut to keep them connected together.


5. Stuff the wires back into the electrical box in the ceiling. Screw the light fixture into the appropriate holes in the electrical box, tightening them until the light fixture sits snugly against the ceiling.


6. Thread the threaded nipple into the hole in the middle of the light fixture. Install compact fluorescent light bulbs into the fixture. Slide the glass shade over the threaded nipple and secure it with the decorative retaining nut.


7. Turn on the breaker and test the operation of the light. With the power on and the light bulbs installed, it should work flawlessly.

Tags: light fixture, each wire, flush mount, flush mount ceiling, light bulbs

Camouflage Popcorn Ceilings

Decorative ceiling tiles add character and dimension to the room.


Although popcorn ceiling was a once-favored, textured ceiling finish, homeowners are now often interested in camouflaging it as they update the appearance of a room. This type of ceiling treatment gets its name from its bead-like texture, which resembles popcorn. Not only did it add a simple, uniform, textural dimension to the ceiling but the popcorn finish also hid seam imperfections in the ceiling's base installation or cracks that later developed through the ceiling's material. Camouflaging the popcorn ceiling with finishing materials provides ways to update the ceiling for a fraction of what it would cost to completely replace it.


Instructions


Covering The Ceiling With Tiles


1. Hire a professional asbestos removal company to test the ceiling's material prior to beginning this project. If asbestos are found, have them remove and clean up the popcorn ceiling material. If asbestos are not found, then the popcorn ceiling can remain intact for the rest of the project.


2. Measure the length and width of the ceiling, and calculate how many of the chosen ceiling tiles are need to cover the ceiling.


3. Scrape off any loose popcorn material from the ceiling with a 4-inch drywall scraper. The last thing anyone would want is for the ceiling tiles to peel away because of the loose, underlying material. This does not require wetting the material, since it will remain as is and be covered with the tiles.


4. Apply a generous amount of adhesive to the back of three to four tiles using the trowel. Comb the adhesive with the comb side of the trowel to make even grooves in the adhesive that will make it adhere very well to the ceiling.








5. Mount a ladder, and stick the first tile to the ceiling in the corner of the room closest to the room's entry point. It is important to have full tiles at this point, since it is the most visible side of the room. It is not necessary to locate the ceiling joists since the tiles will be adhered to the ceilings surface and not nailed or screwed into place.


6. Add the next tiles to the ceiling adjacent to the first tile. Continue to add full tiles until the entire surface of the ceiling is covered. Do not leave any gaps between the tiles.


7. Cut out holes for the ceiling's light fixtures. After adding tiles as close to the lighting fixtures as possible, measure the position of the hole on a tile. Measure where the hole is located and then measure the width and length of the hole. Mark these measurements on a ceiling tile, and then cut it out with a utility knife. Fit the tile over the light fixture.








8. Cut the finishing tiles with a utility knife and a straight edge to fit along the final walls of the ceiling tile installation. As the installation comes to the end, full tiles may not fit to complete the ceiling. After cutting the pieces, apply the adhesive and stick the tile pieces into the gaps.

Tags: popcorn ceiling, ceiling material, ceiling tiles, full tiles, asbestos found, ceiling tile

Cut Plastic Panels For Kitchen Fluorescent Lights

A C-clamp will hold your panel in place when you cut it.


Fluorescent lights provide energy efficient bright white light to your kitchen. Modern fluorescent fixtures may be placed above dropped ceilings or flush-mounted to standard ceilings. A variety of acrylic panels are available to fit these fixtures. The panels diffuse the light and provide a uniform look to the fixture, but only if the plastic fits properly. Plastic lighting panels are thin so they remain lightweight and able to transmit more light. This means they are thin enough to cut with a household utility knife, as long as you work carefully and prepare the plastic properly.


Instructions








1. Lay out your lighting panel on a workbench so the smoothest side faces upward. Set a straight edge along the panel where you want to make your cut and draw a line with a dry erase marker. Set the straight edge aside.


2. Tape along one side of your line with masking tape. Pull the tape tightly and pressing it firmly to the plastic. Wrap the tape all the way around the back side of the panel, following along the same line, until you have covered the front and back of the panel with two layers of masking tape precisely along one side of your line. Repeat the process with the other side of your line, so you only leave about 1/16 of an inch for your cut line. This can reduce the risk of cracking and chipping the acrylic, which can appear unsightly in kitchen fixtures.


3. Press the straight edge along one side of your cut line and drag a utility knife down the full length of the cut about eight times. Use moderate pressure and keep passing the knife along the line until you have cut a little more than halfway through the panel.


4. Place part of the panel you want to keep for your fluorescent light on a work table. Line up your cut with the table edge so the part you are cutting off hangs off the table.


5. Place a piece of 2 by 4 lumber on the table side of your cut so it runs along the full length of your kitchen light panel plus a few inches beyond each end. Clamp this lumber to the table with a C-clamp on each end to provide even pressure that will hold your panel in place.


6. Put sharp pressure on the excess portion of the light panel until it snaps off at your cut line.








7. Remove the C-clamps and masking tape and wipe off any remaining marker with a tissue.

Tags: your line, side your, side your line, along side, along side your, masking tape

Install The Ikea Kristaller

IKEA's Kristaller offers a chandelier at a budget friendly price.


IKEA is known for its stylish and affordable home furnishing and fixtures. One of IKEA's offerings are a wide arrange of lighting fixtures, including the Kristaller chandelier. One of the ways that IKEA keeps its prices low is by having customers put their new purchases together themselves. Because IKEA is a multinational company, its instructions are completely pictorial.


Instructions


1. Attach the fixture hook to the ceiling using the screws so the hook is directly below electrical wires.


2. Loosen the screw holding the wiring cover in place on the Kristaller by twisting the screw counter-clockwise. Do not remove the screw, twist until it is loose enough to lower the cover. Lower the cover so you can see the loop and wires.








3. Hang the loop on the Kristaller on the hook that is attached to the ceiling.


4. Connect the electrical wires from the ceiling to the wires in the Kristaller by twisting the electrical cap on the two connected wires three times clockwise. Do this for all three wires.


5. Raise the wiring cover on the Kristaller until it covers the wiring completely. Secure the cover by twisting the screw clockwise until the cover is firmly in place.


6. Adjust the length of the chain using the hook. This step is optional. If you like the standard length of the chain, you do not need to adjust the length.

Tags: electrical wires, Kristaller twisting, length chain, twisting screw, wiring cover

Monday, December 20, 2010

Build Faux Ceiling Beams

Ceiling beams can add a distinctive look to any room, whether a modern living room or a cottage-style bedroom. Faux ceiling beams are relatively easy to create and install with beginner woodworking skills and simple tools. But the scale of the beams and the finishes are important considerations if the faux ceiling beams are to trick the eye into believing they are solid and more expensive than they really are.


Instructions


1. Design the layout of the beams. Measure the ceiling width to determine the length of your faux beams. Don't assume all the beams will be of the same length: measure each "run" of beam to accommodate small changes in the width of the walls. You want the faux beams to fit tightly against the sidewalls. Use a chalk line to snap guidelines indicating where the beam should be installed in the ceiling. Use two lines to outline each beam's width.


2. Shop for 1-inch-thick dimensional lumber to create beams: 4-, 6-, 8- and 12-inch wide boards are available at home improvement centers. Cut these standard widths down to odd widths if necessary. Boards will come in 8-, 10- and 12-foot lengths. If possible, avoid splicing boards to span your ceiling or use faux iron "straps" to hide splices.


3. Distress and finish all the wood boards to suit after cutting them to the proper length. Use various tools to mar and pit the wood if you want an antique look. Stain the boards and then finish with a sealer. Finish only one side of the boards: the other side will be hidden from view, inside the beam.


4. You'll be constructing each beam from a squared-off "U" shape using three boards per beam. Attach 3-inch metal angle irons to the unfinished inside top edge of two of the boards that will make up the sides of your three-sided beam. Place an angle iron every 12 inches on center. These angle irons will be used as "hangers" to attach the beam to the ceiling securely. Use these angle irons to mark where to predrill holes in the ceiling for screw anchors or molly bolts. Space these two boards so that the third, or "bottom," board can be attached to the edges of the two boards anchored to the ceiling.


5. Mount the two sides of each faux beam to the ceiling, one at a time, using the chalk lines on the ceiling as a guide. Once the two sides of the trough are mounted, use finish nails or a nail gun to close up the U with the bottom board. Countersink the nail heads with stainable caulk. Use caulk to fill in any gaps between the beam and the ceiling.

Tags: angle irons, beam ceiling, each beam, boards that, bottom board, ceiling beams, faux beams

Price A Drywall Job

Drywall


Drywall can be a difficult thing to calculate when it comes to estimating the cost of a job. There are several factors to consider when pricing drywall material and labor. Labor and material costs can be calculated into one set price or you may separate the material and labor if you intend to do the job yourself. It's not possible to estimate a job and hit that number exactly, but you can come close if you do some basic math.


Instructions


1. Determine the wall surface to be drywalled. Multiply the length by the height. For example, if a wall is 10 feet long by 8 feet tall, the surface is 80 square feet. Repeat on all walls to be covered.


2. Measure the surface area of the ceilings by doing the same multiplication. A ceiling that is 12 feet long and 10 feet wide calls for 120 square feet of drywall.


3. Combine the surface areas of both the walls and the ceilings. This will be the entire area within the project to be drywalled.








4. Estimate the number of boards of drywall that will be needed. For 4-by-8-feet sheets of drywall, multiply 4 by 8 (32 square feet). For 4-by-12 sheets, the square footage is 48. For a surface area of 120 square feet, divide 120 by either 32 or 48 (square feet for one board). For 4-by-8 sheets, the drywall needed would be 3.75 sheets, rounded off to four. If the dimensions lend themselves better to 4-by-12 sheets, use three sheets (rounded up from 2.5, or 120 divided by 48).


5. Total the cost. As a rule of thumb, if you are having someone install the drywall, allow $40 per board for an average-size job of two or more rooms, but for smaller jobs, one room or smaller, you might pay upward of $65 per board for material and labor (hanging and finishing; larger jobs tend to get volume discounts). If you do the job yourself, figure 40 to 45 cents per square foot of surface area. This will give you the total cost of material for the drywall job.

Tags: square feet, material labor, surface area, 4-by-12 sheets, feet long, feet long feet

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Hang Curtain Panels From The Ceiling

There are several uses for hanging curtain rods from the ceiling. In some instances, curtains hanging from the ceiling can be an effective way to partition a room and add privacy. A curtain hanging from the ceiling is also a lovely way to create a canopy bed treatment above a bed without a frame on the actual bed.


Hanging the curtain rods is the most difficult part, but once that is done the rest is quite easy and fast. This is a project that most people with a few simple carpentry skills can accomplish.


Instructions


1. Plan the area where the curtains will be hung. Measure the desired place for the curtains. Ceiling mount brackets should be placed approximately every 5 feet along the ceiling. Consider the weight of the curtains to be hung. If the weight is substantial (drapery weight fabric, for instance) consider using hardware that utilizes anchors in the ceiling to support the weight of the curtains.








2. Make small marks with the pencil where the hardware will be drilled to attach the brackets.


3. Drill the hardware into the ceiling to attach the brackets. Use the step stool to reach the ceiling and ask for help from your assistant if necessary.


4. Slide the rods into the brackets and attach clip rings onto the rods.


5. Assess the curtains. If using standard pinch-pleat curtains and the curtains are to hang freely from the ceiling, it may be necessary to add a panel to the bottom of the curtains to make the curtains reach the floor. The panel should be cut out of a complimentary fabric and cut to match the width of the curtains. The width of the panel should be about 12 inches. Hem the bottom of the panel before attaching to the curtains and then attach the panel to the curtain.








If the curtains are to hang around a bed to create a canopy bed effect, it will not be necessary to add a panel to make them reach the floor.


6. Consider if you want the wrong side of the curtain visible. If not, make a double-sided curtain effect by placing two layers of curtains together with the wrong sides facing in and the right sides facing out.


7. Hang the curtains from the clip rings every 5 to 7 inches depending on the weight of the drapery fabric. If hanging two layers of curtains together, place the clips closer together. Adjust the curtains along the rod to make them smooth and even.

Tags: from ceiling, attach brackets, clip rings, create canopy, curtain rods, curtains hang

Friday, December 17, 2010

Put Fabric On My Ceiling

Put white fabric on the ceiling for a subdued look or choose bold-colored fabric for a vibrant, fun room.


Putting fabric on a ceiling is a clever and creative way to hide a damaged or otherwise unattractive ceiling. Cover any type of ceiling, from standard sheetrock to drop ceilings and cathedral ceilings. Fabric ceilings are not a new idea -- this design trick has been used for ages in Middle Eastern, Asian and African countries, such as Morocco. Depending on the colors you choose, this design could have a cultural or whimsical effect in your room. Draping a ceiling with fabric, however, is not the best choice for families with allergies because the fabric attracts and traps dust.


Instructions








1. Measure the length and width of the ceiling to determine how many yards of fabric you will need for this project. Purchase about 5 percent more than you need to account for any miscalculations and mistakes; if you want the fabric to drape from the ceiling, you will need even more.


2. Measure and cut a piece of fabric as long as the room, allowing a few extra inches for error and even more if you want the fabric to drape. If you want to run the fabric across the width of the room, measure and cut the fabric as wide as the room instead.


3. Staple one end of the fabric along the edge of the ceiling, starting in the corner and working your way out and to the other side of the room; cut and staple additional lengths of fabric until you have fabric hanging along the entire side of the room. Be sure to line up the fabric and apply the staples in the straightest line possible.


4. Measure how far you want the fabric to drape and add another row of staples across the room in a straight line. Don't let the fabric drape down so far that tall guests will brush their heads against it.


5. Pull the other end of the fabric as tight as you can and staple the end to the opposite side of the ceiling. Follow this step instead of Step 4 if you don't wish to let the fabric drape from the ceiling.


6. Apply additional staples as needed for support, such as along the perimeter of the ceiling, along the edges where two pieces of fabric meet or sporadically as you desire.


7. Measure and cut trim to fit around the perimeter of the ceiling. Paint them to match the fabric if you wish. Use crown molding, quarter-round molding or paint or stain 1-by-4-inch boards to use as trim.


8. Nail the molding boards into place along the perimeter of the ceiling with a finish nailer to conceal the staple marks. The trim will also add support to hold the fabric in place along the ceiling.

Tags: fabric drape, want fabric, perimeter ceiling, want fabric drape, along perimeter, along perimeter ceiling, ceiling with

Repairing A Plaster Cove In The Ceiling

A plaster cove is an architectural detail found in many homes. Plaster, while durable and hard, is prone to cracking thanks to its very sturdiness. It doesn't move or bend when the house settles or expands and contracts, and as such, cracks can frequently appear, particularly in stress areas like coves and over windows or doors. Repairing this plaster problem is simple and can be accomplished in a matter of a few hours.


Instructions


1. Put on your safety gear. Plaster is a very dusty substance, and you don't want it to get into your respiratory system. Use a mask or a respirator rated for drywall and plaster work. Put on safety glasses and rubber gloves as well. Long sleeves are also recommended.


2. Break away any loose plaster. The area around the plaster crack or hole will need to be cleared away and smoothed out before you can apply the patch. Knock away any large pieces with a hammer and use your hand to remove any debris that may be left behind.


3. Mix a small amount of plaster of Paris in a bucket. Unless there is a very large area to cover, you won't need a lot of plaster. Since this material sets so quickly, it's better to make too little than to have an entire bucket of plaster that's gone hard. Mix the plaster with water according to the manufacturer's instructions.


4. Begin patching the cove. Use a hawk to make this job easier -- it's a small square of metal with a peg on the back to hold. Use your trowel to transfer the plaster from the hawk. Place a small glob on the trowel and begin smoothing it onto the cove. Always work from the bottom up when you are plastering. Keep an even hold on the trowel to apply a level coat, but finish the upstroke in a random arching pattern to help the plaster blend better.


5. Allow the plaster to set for 30 minutes, and then sand down any uneven edges or ridges with a fine-grit sandpaper. The entire surface should be smooth to the touch.


6. Paint over the patched area. Use a latex paint that is rated for use on plaster and apply one thin coat. Let this dry, and apply a second coat if necessary.

Tags:

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Paint Murals Quickly

The Sistine Chapel's ceiling contains a massive mural.








Mural art entails painting large scenes over wall or ceiling expanses. The art of mural painting reaches back to prehistoric times -- think antelope on cave walls. Early murals functioned as a way to record history or tell stories. Flash forward to the 1500s, and mural art became a popular way to express religious sentiment. Michelangelo's artwork on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel is perhaps the most well-known mural in existence. If you'd like to create your own mural but fear you do not have Michelangelo's talents or time, you can employ a few clever tricks to adorn your walls with a masterful mural.


Instructions


1. Use a wall mural-stencil kit to create a mural fast. Kits in varying designs are available online from many retailers (see Resources). Basecoat the walls with a light color. Position the stencils on the wall, or use the positioning map that comes with the kit. Paint the stencils by working from the back of the mural to the front. Determine a highlight side, and add shading opposite this to the elements in your mural to create dimension.


2. Employ a projector to quickly paint a mural. Create a transparency of the image you'd like to turn into a mural by creating a black-and-white copy of the image (simple images with bold lines work best). Take the image to a copy center to turn into a transparency. Usually, you can also rent a projector from the copy center or an office-supply store. Set up the projector a few feet away from the wall where you want to create a mural. Put the transparency on the projector, and turn on the projector and focus it as necessary. Trace the lines on the wall with a light-colored pencil, and then paint the mural as desired with paint.


3. Create a cute mural scene in a day with a paint-by-numbers mural kit. Generally, you will tape the mural, which is on transfer paper, to the wall in the desired spot. Trace the image with a pencil to transfer it to the wall. Paint the transferred image using paints that were included with the kit, or buy your own colors to suit your room's design scheme.

Tags: copy center, create mural, paint mural, Sistine Chapel, turn into

Install A Bathroom Exhaust Fan & Vent

Exhaust fans keep your bathroom smelling clean.


Bathroom air vents with fans move moist air from the bathroom to the outdoors. Installing a vent not only helps reduce foggy mirrors and that "always wet" feeling, but helps reduce mold and mildew that can make you and your family sick. The easiest and cheapest way to install a bathroom exhaust fan and vent is up through the ceiling where there is an existing light fixture, and then out through the wall.


Instructions


1. Remove the bathroom light fixture. Take out the screws that hold the light fixture in place. Pull down on the light fixture until it is free from the ceiling. Unscrew the two electrical connectors that bind the wires from the light fixture to the electrical system. Set the light fixture aside, out of the way.


2. Enlarge the hole. Read the instructions that come with the vent/fan unit to determine the size of the hole you'll need in the bathroom ceiling. Use a framing square to draw a rectangle in the ceiling around the existing hole left by the light fixture. Cut out the rectangle with the jig or drywall saw


3. Attach the duct to the vent/fan unit according to the manufacturer's directions.


4. Attach the vent/fan unit. Push the vent/fan unit, with attached ducting, up into the hole. The ducting goes in first. Secure the unit against the ceiling joist, using screws provided with the unit. Affix the vent/fan cover, making sure it clicks into place.


5. Attach the wiring to vent/fan unit, using electrical connectors from the light fixture--black to black, white to white.


6. Cut a hole in the siding from the outside in, using a jigsaw. Make the hole just big enough for the duct and cap.


7. Install the ducting. Pull the ducting from within the ceiling space and attach it to the vent/fan unit, using the screws provided.


8. Install the duct cap. Apply sealant to the duct cap and siding wall. Screw the duct cap into the siding wall, using metal screws.


9. Turn on the shower and leave it running for several minutes with the fan running to test the system. Go outside and see if air is being expelled.

Tags: light fixture, vent unit, electrical connectors, from light, helps reduce, screws provided

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Hang Curtains From A Dropped Ceiling

Drapery adds dimension to any space.


Ceiling-to-floor drapes, either used as window dressing or a room divider, add dimension to a space. Hanging drapes from a drop ceiling need not be a stressful process. While it's not possible to use a standard curtain rod when hanging curtains from the ceiling, a few specialty products make this project quite simple.


Instructions


1. Metal tape measure


Measure the opening where you'd like to hang ceiling-to-floor drapes. Order a drapery track that corresponds with this measurement. Drapery tracks can be ordered in a variety of shapes and finishes and can be customized to fit any space.


2. Screw the drapery track into the ceiling with an electric screwdriver or drill, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Recommendations for installation vary by manufacturer.


3. Insert drapery track sliders in accordance with manufacturers instructions. Each drapery track will have a recommended slider that corresponds with its use. The number of sliders you install will depend upon the length of the track and the width of the drapes you plan to hang.








4. Insert drapery hooks through the seam at the top of a set of drapes or attach drapery clip hooks no more than 1/2 inch from the edge of the curtain. You should clip or insert one hook every 24 inches. Remember to pay attention to the side of the drapes you wish to face outward. Insert the hooks through the openings in each of the track sliders. The drapes should now slide freely from the ceiling.

Tags: drapery track, corresponds with, dimension space, from ceiling, hooks through, Insert drapery, that corresponds

Paint Old Ceilings







Paint Old Ceilings


Painting older ceilings takes extra preparation although a new coat of paint can refresh the aged surface. The process involves cleaning the ceiling, removing paint flakes and applying several coats of primer and paint. Ceilings should always be painted before painting the walls or trim in a home.








Instructions


Paint Old Ceilings


1. Determine if the ceiling has lead based-paint. According to the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development most homes built before 1978 have lead paint. If the home was built on or before this time do not remove or scrap loose paint. Test for lead paint using a kit that can be purchased at a local hardware store. Many local health departments will test for lead paint for free. If the lead test comes back positive, ask for assistance from the local health department on remove or cover the lead paint.


2. Remove any peeling paint. Use a scraper tool to lightly pull back any loose articles of paint, or plaster. Wire or steel brushes work best. Sand rough areas. Wipe ceiling with damp cloth to clean off any dust or dirt. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove cobwebs from ceiling corners.


3. Skim coat any uneven areas. Using a palette knife, lightly dip into drywall plaster. Smooth away, allowing plaster to fill in gap. Cracks in the ceiling can be filled in with a polyseamseal caulking compound, found in most hardware stores. Once dry, lightly sand. Wipe away any drywall dust.


4. Move furniture and accessories out of room. Place drop clothes on all ground surfaces. Remove any window treatments or cover with plastic.


5. Prime walls with two coats of stain blocking primer. Old ceilings can contain several layers of paint and plaster. The primer will seal any chemicals that could potentially leach through the surface. After the initial primer coat, lightly sand ceiling using a sanding pole. Wipe away dust, and apply the second coat. Primer can be applied using a roller or sprayed on.


6. Follow primer coats with acrylic paint in desired shade. Ceilings are generally painted using a flat sheen level. A flat paint will not reflect light as much as a glossy sheen level.

Tags: lead paint, built before, lightly sand, local health, Paint Ceilings, paint plaster

Spanish Gazebo Styles

Gazebos began as ornately carved outdoor focal points.


Originating in the Victorian period as gazebo, a mock-Latin word meaning "I shall gaze," these open post-and-beam buildings typically have five, six or eight sides and are topped with a peaked roof. Modern-day gazebos may mimic the old-fashioned style with elaborate scroll-work or wrought iron handrails, but homeowners desiring a Spanish flair to landscape need to incorporate Mediterranean elements when planning their gazebo.


Foundation


Hire a tile expert to install a mosaic tile floor for your gazebo.


Design your Spanish Gazebo from the ground up. Install a cobblestone floor to evoke the feel of the streets in many Spanish towns. Hire a tile expert to install a patterned tile floor in bright yellows, reds, greens and blues to display the colors used in Spanish courtyards. For a more subtle flooring choice, lay terracotta tiles as the base of your patio.


Walls


Stucco transforms your gazebo into a Mediterranean oasis.


A combination of carved or plain stone columns joined by stucco-covered half-walls will bring Spain to mind for your visitors. Stucco-covered square columns joined by wrought iron railings bring a strong Spanish flair to your gazebo. More daring homeowners can use pink stucco to mimic the Mission style of Spanish architecture.


Ceiling and Roof


Hang a wrought iron chandelier in your Spanish-style gazebo.


To give your gazebo ceiling a touch of Spain, hand paint the ceiling in Moroccan- or Tuscan-style shapes or use stencils. Apply a sculptured plaster ceiling plate to your ceiling and suspend a ceiling fan from it to stir the air on hot summer nights. Or hang a wrought iron chandelier for dining after dark. Have the roof of your gazebo covered in thatch or red tile. Or have a pergola or arbor built over your gazebo structure and allow vines to grow over it for more shade.


Furnishings


Wrought iron furniture is the perfect complement to your Spanish gazebo.


Choose a wrought iron dining table and chairs for your Spanish-themed gazebo or for a touch of Mediterranean styling purchase cedar furnishings. Another good option is a mosaic tiled round table and chairs with tiled backrests. The addition of a wrought iron serving cart or a chiminea for cold nights will bring authenticity to your outdoor Spanish- inspired space.


Fabric Treatments


From curtains to pillows, the appropriate fabric treatments will add a touch of Spain to your gazebo. Select material in bright oranges, yellows, reds, blues and greens to bring out the colors of Mexican tile. Flowing curtains in bleached or unbleached cotton will provide shade in the heat of the day and privacy whenever you like. A zesty red table cloth is always a good foundation for dining al fresco.


One Final Touch








Plant brightly hued petunias around your Spanish gazebo.


Add bright floral accents to your Spanish-style gazebo. Hang containers spilling with bougainvillea or geraniums from your posts or from your railings in hanging planters. Plant bright petunias in pink, blue or yellow in beds around your gazebo.

Tags: your gazebo, wrought iron, wrought iron, your Spanish, around your, columns joined, expert install