Improve the look of any room by adding a textured ceiling. Refresh old designs with a different texture or create one from scratch using drywall joint compound. Buy joint compound in 5-gallon buckets. You will need to add water to thin it for application to a ceiling. You don't even need to add paint if you want a white ceiling, and it will look good for many years.
Instructions
1. Prepare the room from top to bottom. Remove molding from the perimeter of the ceiling. Use a putty knife to gently pry molding loose, then remove nails. Remove any ceiling fixtures and wrap exposed wires with electrical tape or cap them. Place drop cloths or plastic sheeting across the floor to catch drips.
2. Mix 2 quarts of water into a 5-gallon bucket of joint compound. Use a drywall mixer attached to an electric drill to blend thoroughly. The mixture must be just the right consistency, or it will drip from the ceiling.
3. Pour some of the mixture into a paint roller tray. Screw a handle extender onto the roller you will use. Roll the compound onto the ceiling with a three-quarter inch nap paint roller. Roll an 8-foot square at a time in one direction. Next, cross roll it to give the finished look. Do another 8-foot square and try to erase any visible lines between the two squares. Alternatively, you can use a round brush on an extender to press circular designs into the compound after it's rolled on. Blend the edges between each section by "stomping" a design with the round brush along borders of each section.
4. Finish the ceiling by going around the edges to roll or stomp a pattern all the way to the walls. Use a flat paint brush to work small corners or blend in stubborn places around floor-to-ceiling bookcases or near a fireplace chimney. Dampen a rag with water and carefully wipe along the edges to get all compound off the walls or woodwork.
5. Let the ceiling dry for 24 hours. Reconnect the light fixture and replace any type of molding you removed during the process.
Coffered ceilings use a series of beams to create the look of sunken panels on a ceiling. Although their primary purpose is generally ornamental, they may have practical purposes, such as lessening ceiling load, covering up wavy ceilings or improving acoustics.
Aesthetics
Builders usually use a pattern of squares in coffered ceilings, as well as other shapes, such as rectangles and octagons---especially on complex structures, such as domes. Coffered ceilings bring a look of elegance and luxury to a room. When a ceiling is inherently wavy, coffered ceilings can hide the flaw.
Load Bearing
Coffers help to distribute the weight of domed ceilings.
Another practical application of coffered---or lacunar---ceilings is managing weight. Load bearing ceilings can have their weight distributed and lightened through the use of coffering. This is particularly true in domed ceilings, as seen in Renaissance style architecture.
Accoustics
Acoustics experts add or build coffered ceilings---using sound absorbing panel---to create great sound in theaters or home theater rooms or to minimize sound in a space. The coffers allow flexibility in retrofitting a room for acoustical improvements, while creating a great architectural look.
A typical garage exhaust fan is electrically operated either by way of a basic hand-operated switch or by a temperature-regulated thermostat. A simple power cord carries electrical current to and from a garage exhaust fan and enables the exhaust fan motor, the driving force behind garage exhaust fan operation, to function.
Spinning Fan Blades
A garage exhaust fan is a very simple device. A small motor is attached to a series of short, tapered fan blades, which spin when the exhaust fan motor is in operation. The spinning motion of the fan blades, which create suction, or a small area of low pressure, pulls heated air from inside the garage and radiates it into the outside air. This creates an air current flow that keeps the air in the garage from stagnating and also lowers the temperature of the air inside the garage.
Exhaust Fan Position
For a garage exhaust fan to function properly and to effectively lower the temperature in a garage, it must be mounted on or near a garage ceiling. Hot air rises and congregates towards the upper reaches of a sealed room, including garages and basements. Therefore, to effectively exhaust this hot, stale air, a garage exhaust fan must be installed in the upper reaches of a garage.
Thermostatic Garage Exhaust Fans
The majority of garage exhaust fans are controlled by a small thermostatic switch located inside the exhaust fan housing. This switch, which is wired to the main electrical power source, gets tripped, or activated, once a predetermined temperature is reached. Once activated, the garage exhaust fan turns on and ventilates the air inside the garage until the temperature drops and the fan becomes deactivated.
Kilz paint is used to prime interior walls before applying the top coat.
Kilz paint is an effective alkyd-resin, based primer that is used in interior situations. The paint has a reputation for covering wall and ceiling stains, while providing a good base for the finish coat of wall paint. However, the paint can be very aromatic during application, so the manufacturer's guidelines need to be closely followed.
Ventilation
The manufacturer, Masterchem® Industries, Inc., recommends that all windows and doors be opened while applying Kilz paint. Also suggested is that the painter wear protective gloves, safety glasses with side shields and other protective clothing to cover the main parts of the body. Respiratory protection is only recommended if the worker experiences dizziness, headaches or watery eyes. Anyone experiencing these symptoms is also suggested to increase the amount of fresh air or leave the area right away.
Direct Heat
According to the MSDA data sheet, paint applicators should avoid any direct heat to Kilz paint for "closed containers may explode when exposed to extreme heat." Also to be avoided are any sparks or static electricity in the vicinity of the paint vapors for ignition could occur.
Other Data
Also listed on the data sheet is the statement that the chemicals in Kilz paint are stable, that they are not carcinogenic nor will they breakdown into a hazardous by-product.
Ceiling fans have rushed into the 21st century with new looks and styles that make the old ones look like something from a Humphrey Bogart movie. Choosing the right ceiling fan for your home is now more difficult than ever because so many of these new styles are enticing, but inappropriate. It is therefore very important to know what to look for when choosing your ceiling fan's size.
Instructions
1. Select the fan for its function before you do anything. An enormous fan is hardly necessary for a small bedroom, while a very cool-looking small fan is not going to be of much help for a family room with a cathedral ceiling.
2. Be aware of the size of the room when sizing up the fan blades. Most fan manufacturers include a scale for fan blades based on square footage. Fan blades are measured by diameter. Recommended maximum blade sizes are 36 inches for a room that is 100 square feet; 42 inches for 144 square feet; 48 inches for 225 square feet; and 52 inches for 400 square feet.
3. Consider the height of the room and the height of the inhabitants of the house when choosing a ceiling fan with a light fixture. Light fixtures can add another half foot or more to the overall size of a ceiling. If those living in the house are tall, take into consideration the potential for hitting one's head on the light fixture if the ceiling fan is hanging from a 10-foot ceiling.
4. Take note of the traffic in your home when choosing a ceiling fan size. If the ceiling fan is situated over a table or a little-used room, a ceiling fan with an extravagant chandelier is less likely to present problems. When choosing a ceiling fan situated in a part of the house where this heavy traffic, such as the middle of a living room between the kitchen and the entryway to the bedrooms, you should probably go wtih a smaller fan without a light fixture to avoid accidents.
An electric shower may sound absurd, as electricity is heating water just a few inches above your head; however, if installed correctly an electric shower can be a safe and financially sound investment. An electric shower saves money by using only a fraction of the water that your typical shower or bath uses and only heating the water you need immediately. Read on to learn more.
Instructions
Plumbing
1. Use the template provided by the manufacturer to mark holes on the wall where you will mount the shower unit. Using your marks as guides, drill pilot holes using the appropriate sized masonry bit. If the manufacturer does not provide a template, you should be able to remove the backing of the shower unit and use the backing itself as a template.
2. Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the shower wall to fit the copper branch pipe that will connect the shower head to the main water valve. Push the pipe through the hole, measure and cut to the proper length. Fit a stopcock to the end of the branch pipe inside of the airing cupboard behind the shower wall. The arrow on the stopcock should be pointing towards the shower head, away from the rising main.
3. Fit the T-joint to the rising main, only hand-tightening the cap nuts. Measure and cut an extra piece of connecting pipe if necessary to connect the T-joint to the stopcock, joining the branch pipe to the main valve. Once fitted, tighten the cap nuts and other joints well.
4. Mount the shower head to the end of the copper branch pipe, attaching the shower unit box to the wall on one side of the shower head where you have made your pilot holes. Connect the flexible spray hose to the shower unit and the shower head.
Electricity
5. Make a hole in the ceiling between joists where you will mount the pull-switch. Attach the mounting board on which you will fasten the pull-switch backplate.
6. Run a piece of circuit cable up to the ceiling, running it through the mounting board. Leave at least 6 inches of excess cable at the switch position. For running cable, you can use plastic trunking and attach the plastic sheaths to the wall and ceiling, or run the cable in between studs behind the wall, up through the ceiling and down to the switch.
7. Attach the pull-switch backplate and strip the excess cable at the switch position, revealing one black wire, one red wire and a group of bare wires. Twist the bare wires together, the ground wires, and cover them with green and yellow sleeving before attaching them to the "E" terminal of the pull-switch. Then connect the red wire to the "L" terminal and the black wire to the "N" terminal.
8. Strip the cable connected to the shower unit, again revealing one black wire, one red wire and a group of bare wires. Connect the wires located on the shower unit to the "Mains" terminals of the pull-switch. The red wire should connect to the "L" terminal, the black wire should connect to the "N" terminal and bare wires should connect to the "E" terminal. All bare wires should be covered with green or yellow sleeving before attaching them to the terminal.
Tags: shower unit, bare wires, shower head, black wire, branch pipe, connect terminal, electric shower
Light-Emitting Diode (LED) bulbs are a relatively new technology in the lighting industry. They are considered a green technology, and require much less energy than traditional types of bulbs. One of the main criticisms of these bulbs to this point has been their poor compatibility with dimmer switches. While virtually any LED bulb can be used in most dimmable fixtures, the basic technology behind these bulbs leads to poor control over light levels. Fortunately, the newest LED bulbs are completely dimmable, and offer much more versatility than older models.
Instructions
1. Understand the limitations of LED bulbs. The traditional LED light bulb is not designed for dimming. When placed in a dimmable fixture, the bulb will have some dimming capabilities, which will generally perform best in the upper and lower 10 percent of light levels. If you want to enjoy the benefits of an LED, and only require a limited dimming range (for example, the light is either at full or near full brightness, or it is at minimum brightness, with no options in between), then any LED bulb will work.
2. Explore the U.S. Energy Star Lighting Partners (see Resources for a link). This list contains LED bulb and fixture manufacturers that have been certified to meet Energy Star standards. As part of these standards, all LED fixtures offered by these partners must be dimmable. Each of these manufacturers also offers appropriate bulbs to maximize dimming range while minimizing energy consumption.
3. Review the bulbs offered by Earth LED (see Resources). This company was the first to offer a complete line of LED bulbs that are fully dimmable. Their line of Lumi Select bulbs can be dimmed from 100 percent to zero and may also be set at any value in between.
4. Choose the correct LED bulb base type. For example, the traditional incandescent light bulb used in most home applications has a standard size base known as a "Type A base." Bulbs used in ceiling fans, lamps, or flood lights may have bases of many different sizes and shapes. When making your purchase, be sure to specify the appropriate base design. For more information on this topic, review the Lumi Select website found in the Resources section.
5. Compare brightness levels carefully. Many homeowners are accustomed to buying bulbs based on wattages. Because of the difference in light output between LEDs and other types of bulbs, LED bulbs should be purchased based on their light output, measured in lumens. This is an important consideration when purchasing these bulbs, as a 9 watt LED bulb can produce the same light levels as a 70 watt incandescent.
Tags: light levels, these bulbs, bulb used, bulb used most, bulb will, dimming range
The cover will be either above or below the light bulb.
Ceiling light covers come in a wide variety of designs and finishes, but regardless of their differences, all of them attach to the underlying light fixture via some sort of fastener, usually screws. If you have a screw-less light cover, then the light cover itself either snaps or threads into the light fixture. Replace your ceiling light covers whenever they get damaged or to simply upgrade the lighting decor to a more modern look.
Instructions
1. Turn the power switch to the off position in the fuse box of the house. Stick a paper note on the fuse box letting people know that electrical maintenance is being performed.
2. Set up an A-frame ladder beneath the light fixture and climb up to the light. If the light cover fastens above the light bulb, remove the light bulb from the socket by turning it counterclockwise. Undo the screws that hold the cover to the light fixture. If a sort of glass globe covers the light bulb, look up above the globe to locate the fasteners holding it to the fixture. Some screws may need to be removed with a Phillips or flathead screwdriver depending on design. If the light cover fastens beneath the light bulb, go to the next step.
3. Locate the fasteners and remove them. Some covers have a nut that has to come off the threaded fixture bolt that protrudes through the center of the light cover. Turn this counterclockwise while holding the cover. Once it comes off, slide the cover down and off the end of the threaded bolt. If you can't find any fasteners, try twisting the cover to the left. If it loosens, it means that the cover itself is threaded onto the fixture. Keep twisting to the left until it comes free. If it doesn't loosen, there may be a decorative plate that hides the screws. You need to locate and pry this plate off before you can access the fasters holding the cover to the fixture.
4. Take the cover to your local home improvement or home lighting store and show it to an employee. Ask if they have the same or something similar to the cover you have. If you don't want the same cover, ask them to point you to covers that may not look the same, but will attach the same way as this one does. Install the new light cover in the reverse order that you removed it.
Building a Coffered Ceiling can be a very hard job if you let it, However, it can also be made simple. This article will teach you a basic building technic needed to build a coffered ceiling simple.
Instructions
1. The coffered ceiling will be framed out of 2x4s and 1/2" OSB. This makes the strongest possible "frame" for your drywall and lights to hang on.
2. Get your height and width measurements figured for the ceiling so that you can cut the OSB to pre-build the "frame" in peaces on the floor, [for the smaller runs] long runs will be built on the ceiling and on the walls.
3. Run all of the longest runs first by running a 2x4 on the ceiling and wall at you height and width measurements. Nail the 1/2" OSB to the 2x4 on the ceilings then run a 2x4 flush to the bottom of the 1/2". [like the picture detail in step-2] Add one 2x4 block on each side then string a line from one side to the other, pull the center to the string then block them in 16" on center. It's best to start on the side walls working to the middle. [Note: in this drawing the Yellow is the walls, Blue is the 2x4 for the coffered frame, red is 1/2"OSB]
4. This detail shows a different view of how the blocking should look running down the bottom. Note: that after you string it straight its best to leave / install the string line so it can be left for the drywall crew. That way if something happens and it get bumped out they can adjust it back if needed.
5. This is a shaded top view of what the finished frame should look like. Framing in and blocking the centers and staight runs out should all be done with string lines. The center frames should be built like the frames on the walls, beside that they will have the "ceiling frame" with the 1/2"OSB on both sides.
6. After it is drywalled and painted you can add in some crown trim to give it the true coffered look. Plus after all the work framing the ceiling why not add a little extra custom crown trim.
Finding lights for a kitchen used to a be simple venture, but as kitchen designs have advanced and changed over the years, so have the options for kitchen lighting. Style is important when it comes to the type of lighting you want, as is considering where the lights will be placed and how they will affect the cooking and preparation done in the kitchen. You don't want darkness or shadows around the stove and sink areas. When it comes to the effects of the lighting you need to greatly consider what type of light covers to purchase. Light covers typically come with the fixtures or can be bought separately.
Instructions
1. Go to the Decor Secrets website and research various kitchen lighting methods (see References). Before you purchase you're light covers you must have the lighting fixture that you want. Also, be sure to take note regarding what to look for when you are searching for new kitchen lighting. Notice which lighting fixtures don't come with covers and which have different kinds of covers attached to them.
2. Go to the Improvements Catalog website to search through a number various lighting options and kitchen light covers (see References). Be sure to write down the lighting fixtures and their features that you like the most. Create a list of about ten different styles and brands.
3. Determine what style of light cover you like the best. For example, there are pyramid shaped covers, crystal designed covers, covers that clip on to light fixtures and covers that need to be screwed in.
4. Visit a home improvement store in your area like Lowes or Home Depot and look for lighting fixtures and covers that closely match the list you made. Typically, once you've chosen your new kitchen lighting fixtures, you'll find matching covers to go with the lights. However, if you don't find the covers you want at a retail store, continue to Step 5 to search for light covers online.
5. Search for more kitchen light covers online through various retail stores, like NexTag (see Resources). Make sure to check the websites return policy. You don't want to purchase a light cover online that won't fit.
6. Go to the website for your existing lighting fixtures to find different types of covers provided by the same company. This may be one of your most beneficial options, since you know the cover will fit and work appropriately with your lighting fixture. Also, be sure to check with the company's return policy in case the cover isn't exactly what you wanted. For example, the cover may make the lighting too dim.
Tags: lighting fixtures, kitchen lighting, covers that, light covers, Also sure, come with
Ceiling fans are relatively easy to install in place of any existing ceiling light or other electrical fixture. Most fan kits come with mounting brackets that are designed to screw onto a standard ceiling electrical box, and the fan then connects to the bracket. You control the power from the same wall switch that controlled the previous fixture.
Instructions
1. Cut the electricity to the existing ceiling fixture at the fuse box. Remove the old fixture by unscrewing the screws holding it to the ceiling electrical box. Disconnect the wires between the fixture and the electrical box so the wires from the box are freely hanging.
2. Attach the mounting bracket from the fan kit to the electrical box using the provided screws. The holes in the bracket should line up with the standard holes in the electrical box.
3. Assemble your Westinghouse fan, minus the blades. Walk it up the ladder, setting it on the top. Use wire caps to connect the black wire from the fan housing to the black wire coming out of the ceiling box. Connect the two white wires in the same fashion. Wrap electrical tape around the connections.
4. Twist the bare grounding wire from the electrical box around the green screw in the fan unit and tighten it.
5. Lift the fan unit up to the mounting bracket and secure it with the provided screws. Turn on the power at the fuse box to test the fan motor and make sure it's properly connected. If it is, turn the power back off and install the fan blades as directed, then turn the power on.
Tags: black wire, ceiling electrical, existing ceiling, from electrical, mounting bracket, provided screws, turn power
If your kitchen has a pre-existing light fixture in the ceiling, you can upgrade to a light more suited to your own personal preferences. Perhaps you want something more fancy or even something more practical. It can all be done easier than you might think. Just follow the simple steps listed and always keep safety in mind and before you know it, you’ll have your new kitchen light installed in no time.
Instructions
1. Go to your breaker panel and turn off the breaker to your kitchen light. If this is not already marked for you and your breaker panel is in a place where you cannot see the kitchen light go out, have a helper turn the breaker off for you, telling him when the kitchen light goes out. For safety reasons, you always want to have the electricity off when working with your light fixture.
2. Use a ladder following all safety rules and remove the pre-existing fixture from the ceiling. To save trips up and down the ladder, this is another good time to consider having a helper since you can simply hand him parts without having to worry about climbing back down with things in your hands.
3. Use a voltage tester to check for power. Even if the light went out when the breaker panel was turned off, you need to still check for power at the source. This will ensure that you’re working under safe conditions and all electricity to the area you’re working on is off.
4. Remove the wire nuts from the wire connections and remove all pieces of the old fixture. Assemble your new fixture by following the manufacturer’s directions included in the box. This can be done any place in your home that is convenient.
5. Connect the light fixture brace from the new light to the ceiling box with a drill or screwdriver. Connect the like-colored wires to each other and make the connections solid with the wire nuts. Now you can mount the new kitchen light fixture to the brace.
6. Install your new bulbs that either came with the new kitchen light fixture or ones that you have purchased. Install any extra fixtures that came with your lights depending on the design you picked out.
7. Now you’re ready to turn the breaker back on and enjoy your new lights. Have you or your partner turn the breaker back on at the panel and make sure your lights are working properly.
Tags: light fixture, turn breaker, breaker panel, kitchen light, kitchen light, your kitchen, your lights
Older homes sometimes have layers and layers of wallpaper, even on the ceiling. Today's style of decorating leans toward clean, crisp painted ceilings and walls, which means that wallpaper has to go. It's a somewhat messy job, but don't despair. The finished project is well worth the effort. There are several ways to make the process less painful.
Instructions
1. Try an edge of the wallpaper to see if the outer layer will peel off--some vinyls will, leaving the paper backing on the wall. Older types of wallpaper will not peel off. Gently score the wallpaper with a scoring tool such as the Paper Tiger. Do not get too aggressive, as this tool can damage the drywall underneath the wallpaper.
2. Mix 1 cup of fabric softener and very warm water in a garden sprayer. Pump up the sprayer and spray the ceiling in sections. Allow the mixture to set on the ceiling for 20 minutes.
3. Use the scraper to scrape the wallpaper off. If the paper still does not release, spray it again and allow to sit for 10 minutes. If there are several layers of wallpaper, repeat the spraying and scraping steps until you get to the drywall underneath.
4. Wash each section of the ceiling with a mixture of vinegar and warm water to remove glue residue, before it dries and hardens again. If the glue has been allowed to dry, wet it down with the fabric-softener mixture, then wash it with the vinegar and water mixture.
5. Allow the ceiling to dry completely. Check carefully to be sure all the glue has been removed. Any glue left behind on the ceiling will show through the paint when it is applied, causing dark spots.
Basement ceilings can be finished in a variety of ways to fit any style. When remodeling a basement, the ceiling is quite important. Most basement ceilings house duct work, electrical lines and water lines for the rest of the home. Keep in mind that ease of access can be attractive and functional.
Suspended Ceiling
Fancy suspended ceilings are an option.
The most popular way of finishing a basement ceiling is the suspended ceiling. A suspended ceiling is fairly easy to install and will leave easy access to the duct work and other important household utilities. The tiles for a suspended ceiling come in many styles and designs. There are tiles available that look like ornate metal, stucco, patterned plastic, and even flat finish drywall or a wood look. Most styles can be painted or decorated to match the style of the rest of the basement. Suspended ceilings also block basement noise from the rest of the home and add insulation.
Drywall
Drywall installation is best left to a professional.
Drywall is also a popular way to finish a basement ceiling. Drywall is difficult to install and may be better installed by a professional. A drywall ceiling in your basement will give a nice, clean finished look. Once the drywall is installed, it can be painted, textured, or both. Keep in mind a drywall ceiling does not offer ease of access to duct work, or other important workings of the home. Drywall ceilings also reduce noise and add insulation.
Create Art and Interest
Mirror ceiling tiles can help with a poorly-lit basement.
Once the basement ceiling is installed, the only limit for decorating is your imagination. Take a look at some famous ceilings such as the Sistine Chapel. Give your basement a custom look with a mural, or an artistic pattern. Mirrors are another very nice way to add interest and additional lighting in a basement. They can be just plain mirrors or customized with fancy etching. Most basements have a lighting issue, so try to keep the ceiling light in color. Light colors or mirrors will add the illusion of a brighter room.
Bathroom wallpaper comes in various colors and is an affordable way to update your space. When making your wallpaper selection, consider the existing design and style of your room. Bathrooms attract moisture and humidity, so it's important to find a wallpaper that will withstand these conditions. With so many patterns and designs to choose from, pick up samples to help you with your decision.
The Basics
Bathroom wallpaper is available in a range of designs and colors. If you have a small bathroom, try wallpapering one wall while keeping the remaining walls neutral. The easiest wallpaper to install is the self-adhesive kind. It's virtually mess-free and only requires water. You simply moisten the back of the wallpaper with water, apply it to the wall, and let it dry. Remember to allow enough time before installing any bathroom accessories such as mirrors or pictures.
Wallpaper Ideas
Typically bathrooms are one of the smallest rooms in your house but a room where you can experiment with bold colors like red and orange. Try wallpapering the largest wall in your bathroom with your favorite pattern or design. Geometric shapes and stripes will enhance the design of your bathroom. If you have a separate room for your toilet, consider wallpapering this room only.
For a neutral bathroom, use light-colored wallpaper like cream or beige. These colors work well to open up a space. They also coordinate with most bathroom fixtures and accessories.
If you have a large or even small ceiling in your bathroom and you want a unique look, install wallpaper on the ceiling. You'll need to remove all light fixtures as well as disconnecting the electricity before you begin. Consider a bright pattern to draw our eye up to the ceiling. Keep the rest of the walls neutral and free of color, especially if you choose a bright bold pattern.
Faux-style wallpaper, which creates the look of marble, is another option. It comes in a large range of colors and is very forgiving so you don't have to be perfect when it comes to matching up the seams. If you have any open book shelves or vanity, consider installing wallpaper behind the cabinets. Your bathroom products will stand out nicely against this design.
Tips
Always measure your bathroom before you begin your project. Knowing the exact dimensions will ensure you have enough wallpaper and will help you plan your design. Using a level for accuracy helps with matching up patterns within the wallpaper. Also, make sure you allow the wallpaper to dry at least 24 hours before use. When wallpapering a ceiling, make sure you have 1 to 2 inches of extra wallpaper on all sides to trim once it's dry.
Tags: Bathroom wallpaper, before begin, make sure, walls neutral, with your, your bathroom, your bathroom
Beadboard is an old style of wood covering for walls or ceilings that is reminiscent of the inside of old railcars or boats. It comes in long planks, with tongue-and-groove edges that fit tightly together. Attaching the boards to a ceiling is an effective way to add character to a room and can also hide ceilings that are cracked, scarred or otherwise unpresentable. Make sure the beadboard is prefinished, since you don't necessarily want to finish it on the ceiling.
Instructions
1. Locate each joist in the ceiling using your electronic studfinder. Mark across the whole ceiling at the position of each joist with a level and pencil.
2. Measure across the ceiling, from end to end, perpendicular to the joists, along the starting edge of the ceiling. Transfer the measurement to a beadboard ceiling plank. Subtract 1 inch from the measurement. Cut the board to that size on a miter saw.
3. Hold the beadboard plank up to the ceiling, with the grooved edge of the board toward the wall and positioned one-half inch out from it. There should be one-half inch of space at each end of the board as well.
4. Secure the board with two trim nails per joist, shooting them straight upward through the face of the board with your trim gun. The lines you drew on the ceiling will show you where each joist is located.
5. Cut the next board to size in the same manner. Press the grooved side of it against the tongue side of the previous board. Nail the new board in place by shooting one trim nail per joist into the side of the board, next to the tongue, so the nail heads will be hidden by the next board.
6. Repeat the process for each board, building across the ceiling board by board. Use a table saw to cut the last board along its length so it fits next to the ending wall with a one-half-inch space there. Ceiling trim will cover the spaces around the perimeter.
Tags: each joist, across ceiling, board with, ceilings that, each board, inch from
Kilz Siding, Fence and Barn paint is an outdoor-use paint that is made from a water-oil formula. This formula offers the penetrating capability of oil-based paint with the fade resistance and easy cleanup of a quality latex paint. If you want to apply Kilz barn paint with a sprayer, you may need to thin it so it will pass through your sprayer's small tip. Instructions for Kilz barn paint suggest the paint be spread by brush, but do not specify that Kilz barn paint cannot be used with a sprayer. The manufacturer does not suggest any recommended methods for thinning the paint, so efforts on your part will be by trial and error.
Instructions
1. Open your can of Kilz Siding Fence and Barn paint with a paint can opener or flat head screwdriver.
2. Use a stir stick to stir the paint thoroughly.
3. Place a paint strainer on top of your clean empty bucket and pour the Kilz through it and into the bucket. Let the sieve catch any heavy particles. Discard these after straining.
4. Add a small amount of the Kilz to your sprayer. Turn your sprayer on first and try it out on a test piece of wood. If the sprayer emits a fine mist that covers your test board without streaks or runs, you may be able to proceed without any further adjustment. If the sprayer emits clumpy globs of paint, you may need to thin the paint. If this is the case, proceed to the next step.
5. Add approximately a half cup of water and one cap full of paint thinner to your sprayer tank. The basic rule of thumb for thinning paint is to use water to thin latex paints and to use paint thinner to thin oil-based paint. However, Kilz barn paint uses a water-oil formula, so start off using a small amount of both. Stir the mixture with a stir stick and test out the spray mix on another test piece of wood.
6. Add small amounts of both water and paint thinner (no more than a quarter cup of water and a cap full of paint thinner) until you are able to spray a fine mist from your sprayer that does not run or streak. If the first coat ends up being light, allow 6 to 8 hours for the first coat to dry then add a second coat.
Tags: your sprayer, barn paint, Kilz barn, Kilz barn paint, paint thinner, paint with, Siding Fence
Painting a textured basement ceiling poses the challenge of coating the recesses with paint. Texture on a ceiling is a dimensional surface with peaks and valleys or flat areas with depressions. A fresh coat of paint on a ceiling brings new life to a room inexpensively. White will help to brighten the basement, which is very effective when little or no natural light enters the room.
Instructions
1. Remove as much furniture and stored items from the basement as possible.
2. Lay plastic tarps over floors and items that are not removable.
3. Pour an oil-based primer into a painting tray. Do not use a water-based primer on your textured ceiling because some texturing materials dissolve in water, which will result in the texture falling from the ceiling.
4. Attach a high-nap paint roller to the end of a painting pole or broom handle. The end of the pole has threads and rollers to screw onto the threaded end.
5. Draw the roller through the primer and roll off excess onto the flat upper portion of the painting tray.
6. Lift the roller to touch the ceiling and roll the primer in only one direction. Rolling the roller back and forth will cause the roller to pick up wet paint resulting in a thinner coverage. Begin along an edge and work your way to the opposite edge.
7. Allow the primer to dry fully, generally three to four hours.
8. Apply a second coat of primer running perpendicular to the first coat. If your first coat ran from the back of the house to the front, the second coat should run from one side to the other. This technique will provide an evenly covered surface.
9. Allow the second coat of primer to dry completely, usually three to four hours.
10. Pour oil-based paint into the painting tray and roll on in the same manner as the primer. Apply a minimum of two coats of ceiling paint and a maximum of four coats. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly between applications.
Tags: painting tray, second coat, coat primer, first coat, four hours
Ceiling fans come in styles ranging from Asian to Victorian.
Ceiling fans come in a wide variety of styles, and many include a light fixture. They cool the people in the room and add a decorative feature that enhances the style. It is not difficult to select the perfect ceiling fan that complements the other decor in your home. The right style, size, height and amount of lighting it gives off are all important features to consider. Ceiling fans with reversible blades are functional year-round, since the blades reverse to create cool or warm air circulation depending on the season.
Instructions
1. Look at the room where you want to install the ceiling fan. Determine the style or theme in the room. If you have a lot of Victorian-style furnishings, choose a ceiling fan and light fixture that reflect this theme. Homes with rustic, country-style themes look appropriate with rustic-looking fan blades and old-fashioned globes on the light fixture.
2. Purchase the ceiling fan size that is appropriate for the square footage in your room. Determine the room size by multiplying the length times the width. The diameter of fan blades ranges from 24 to 60 inches, although the most common diameters for average-sized rooms are 36 or 52 inches, as stated by the University of Arkansas. A fan blade diameter of 29 to 36 inches is appropriate for a room with 75 square feet or less; a 36- to 42-inch fan blade is right for a room with 76 to 144 square feet. Larger rooms (up to 225 square feet) need a 44-inch blade diameter, and up to 400 square feet requires a blade diameter of 50 to 54 inches. You can always use two smaller ceiling fans on either end of the room if it is quite large.
3. Look at the lighting necessary in the room. If you have lots of windows and natural light, or rarely utilize a ceiling light, this is not as important as it is for consumers who use a ceiling-fan light exclusively to brighten a large room. Count the number of sockets in the light fixture and check the box to see what amount of wattage is allowed in each socket. This ensures the ceiling fan will provide the room area with enough light.
4. Purchase a downrod if necessary so that the ceiling fan is 7 feet above the floor. This ensures the most cooling efficiency. A 7-foot height allows most people to walk underneath the ceiling fan without the blades bumping their head or knocking their hat off. For low ceilings, low-profile fans are available; they sit flush with the ceiling. Extendable downrods are available for vaulted and coffered ceilings as well.
If your plaster ceiling needs repair, it's an urgent matter that requires your immediate attention. Plaster is quite heavy and can collapse at any time, endangering your home and family. Plaster can lose its hold over time, cracking and loosening from where it has been anchored, to strips of wood called a lath. If only the plaster is affected, you should be able to repair it on your own. But if the lath is damaged, it may be time to call in a professional to help with repairs.
Instructions
1. Drill ¼-inch holes with the power drill into the plaster ceiling every 4 inches. Take care not to drill so deep that you penetrate the wooden lath. Sweep away dust from the drilling with a vacuum cleaner.
2. Fill a spray bottle with water and squirt the water into the holes to soften the plaster. Squirt latex glue into the holes with the caulking gun. Wipe away excess glue that may ooze out with a dampened sponge.
3. Secure plywood boards between the plaster ceiling where you've made the repairs and the floor, gently pushing the ceiling up toward the lath to affix it with the glue you inserted. Before doing so, cover the tops of the plywood boards with plastic sheeting to protect the plaster from the sharp edges of the board. Let the repair sit and cure for at least 24 hours.
4. Remove the plywood boards and fill the holes in the plaster ceiling by applying joint compound with a putty knife.
Tags: plaster ceiling, plywood boards, holes with, into holes
Granite, slate or travertine stone tiles are common decorative tiles that enhance the look of a ceiling. Tiling is one of the most common methods of decorating walls and ceilings, such as in a shower area. Kitchen ceilings and living room ceilings can also be tiled. Tile can make a plain ceiling inspiring or a worn ceiling nice. A decorative stone tile pattern improves the whole look of a room. The finished look is admirable, and the plan is simple.
Instructions
1. If the ceiling surface is not cement, mortar or drywall, construct a supporting structure on the ceiling with backerboard. Cut enough backerboard to fill in the entire area. After the board is ready, prepare the ceiling for construction by marking a layout in chalk. With a pencil, measure lines on the backerboard to make square or rectangular pieces; then, make each shape clear by marking each line. Score deep each line along a straight edge. Snap off each piece at the scored edge. Fix the backerboard pieces on the ceiling with fasteners. Fill the entire area with backerboard. Last, fill in any gaps with thinset mortar.
2. If the structure is not flat, level the area with leveler. With a trowel or a brush, spread leveler evenly on the ceiling area and let it level. Use a straight edge to smooth the finish, removing any raises or dips. After the leveler has cured, make sure that the surface is flat. Scrape off any areas or spots that stand out.
3. Make a grid on the ceiling. Measure the area length in inches and multiply by the width in inches. Divide this number by 144 for the square feet. On paper, design a grid pattern you like that covers the square feet. Center the design within the ceiling area lines, and include border tiles. Cut any border tiles you need with the wetsaw. For the design on paper, make a square or rectangle for each tile, including a surrounding grout area. Mark chalk lines on the ceiling; cover the entire area.
4. Apply thinset mortar on the ceiling. Spread a solid layer evenly on each square in the grid. After examining the square for imperfections, clean out each square with the trowel. The adhesive is ready for the tiles.
5. Places tiles in a pattern on grid. Begin with a corner border tile. Press the tile in place with your hands and hold until firmly fixed; leave space for grout. Place the two border tiles that edge the space for the full-sized tile that is in the corner. Then, press the full-sized tile in place in the corner next to the two border tiles. Work across the room in a diagonal. Place the border tiles and then place the full-sized tiles. Finish the tiles by using the grout float to insert grout in the spaces. Be certain to use the sponge to clean the whole ceiling.
Tags: border tiles, entire area, area with, ceiling area, ceiling with
You don't have to replace your Hampton Bay fan just because the remote control will no longer operate it. You can remove the remote from the fan and it will operate as if there had never been a remote in it at all. You may have to get up out of the bed to turn off the light, but your bank account will not suffer.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the ceiling fan at the breaker panel. If you don't know which breaker to turn off, simply turn the fan on and turn off each breaker until the fan no longer operates.
2. Disconnect the ceiling fan from the power supply. Take the canopy off the mounting bracket to gain access to the electrical wiring and the remote receiver. The canopy is attached to the bracket with four screws; you will need to remove the screws in order to remove the canopy.
3. Disconnect the remote receiver from the power supply wires. The power supply wires will be a black and a white wire coming from the electrical box in the ceiling, connected by wire nuts to the black and white wires on the power supply side of the receiver. Untwist the wire nuts by hand and pull apart both the black and the white wires to disconnect them from the power supply. This will also disconnect the ceiling fan from the ceiling. Take the ceiling fan down and place it on a sturdy work surface.
4. Remove the remote receiver from the Hampton Bay fan. The receiver will be attached to the ceiling fan motor through three wires that are connected with wire nuts. The wires are black (hot), white (neutral) and blue (light kit). The wires on the receiver are the same color as the ones on the ceiling fan motor. Disconnect each wire by untwisting the wire nut and pulling the wires apart by hand. The receiver is now disconnected from the fan, and you can remove it.
5. Connect the ceiling fan to the power supply. Place the orange wire nut on the white wire from the power supply together with the white wire from the ceiling fan and twist the wire nut securely to the wires. Place another orange wire nut on the black wire from the power supply together with the black and the blue wires from the ceiling fan and twist the wire nut on as before.
6. Push all the wires into the electrical box in the ceiling and reattach the ceiling fan canopy to the hanging bracket. The canopy will attach to the hanging bracket with four screws. Tighten the screws securely to the bracket.
7. Turn the circuit breaker back on to supply power to the ceiling fan.
Tags: power supply, from power, from power supply, black white, from ceiling
Drop ceilings are suitable for many remodeling jobs, but because of the way they're constructed, they're not designed to support heavy loads, like those of a chandelier. Yet, by using the structural members of the home that the suspended ceiling is connected to, you can hang a chandelier and create the impression that it's suspended from the drop ceiling itself.
Instructions
1. Remove the tile from drop ceiling, at the spot where the chandelier will be located. Drop a plumb bob down from the nearest ceiling joist. Measure the distance of the plumb bob line from the panels on either side of the removed panel. Transfer the dimensions onto the removed panel. Cut a 1-inch round hole in the panel with a utility knife.
2. Feed the chain and power cord of the chandelier through the panel and a decorative ceiling round. Glue the ceiling round to the panel on the underside.
3. Screw a metal screw hook into the ceiling joist at the location you used earlier for the plumb bob. Screw a gang box into the joist, next to the hook. Feed the power line that will power the chandelier into the gang box from one side. Feed the power cord from the chandelier into the other side.
4. Match the wires of the power cord and the chandelier to each other -- black to black and white to white. Place wire nuts over the ends of the wires and twist until tight. Screw the cover onto the gang box.
5. Hang the chandelier chain from the hook on the joist. Replace the panel into the drop ceiling.
Tags: drop ceiling, from drop, from drop ceiling, power cord, ceiling joist, ceiling round
Nutone Scoville fans mount to your ceiling in the same manner as most ceiling fans. The technology used to mount ceiling fans has remained unchanged for most models. To secure your fan you must install the necessary hardware into the ceiling and complete the necessary electrical connections. Although you will deal with electricity when installing a ceiling fan, this is a good task for a homeowner who may still be a novice at home improvement.
Instructions
1. Turn off the circuit breaker that powers the room in which you plan to install the ceiling fan. This prevents electrical shock while you install the fan.
2. Locate a joist or truss in the center of the ceiling with a stud finder. You must attach the junction box to framing in the ceiling to ensure the fan remains supported.
3. Place the junction box against the ceiling . If you plan to use a side-mounted junction box, place the side of the junction inline with the side of the joist. If you plan to use a bottom-mounted box, center the box over the joist. Trace the box with a pencil and then cut out the section of drywall or plaster with a keyhole saw.
4. Feed the electrical cable from the electrical switch you plan to use to control the fan to the hole you cut into the ceiling. Use a wire fisher to pull the wire up though the wall and into the ceiling. Leave at least 12 inches of wire extending from the ceiling.
5. Feed the wire extending from the ceiling into the junction box and then attach the junction box to the joist with 2-inch wood screws and a screwdriver.
6. Attach the electrical cable to the electrical switch. To do so, peel 1/2-inch insulation from the end of each wire with wire strippers and attach the wires to the electrical lugs on the switch. Attach the black wire to the positive lug and the white wire to the neutral lug. Attach the green wire to the grounding screw.
7. Attach the fan blades to the Nutone Scoville ceiling fan with the supplied hardware.
8. Attach the ceiling fan mounting bracket to the junction box with the supplied screws and a screwdriver.
9. Attach the downrod to the mounting bracket and feed the electrical wires through the center of the rod.
10. Slide the fan housing onto the down rod and secure it with the attachment pin. Lock the attachment pin in place with the cotter pin.
11. Attach the wires from the ceiling fan to the wires extending from the ceiling. Use wire nuts to attach each wire together and then tuck the wires up into the junction box. Attach the black-and-blue wire coming from the fan to the black wire coming from the ceiling. Attach the white wires together and then attach the green wires together.
12. Slide the mounting bracket cover in place and secure it with the supplied setscrew.
Tags: from ceiling, extending from, extending from ceiling, into ceiling, mounting bracket
Acoustical ceiling tiles help to reduce sound reverberation and provide acoustical absorption in a room, an important factor in noisy environments such as schools or commercial offices. There are also acoustical ceiling tiles suitable for both home and commercial installations. Acoustical ceiling tiles are available in a wide range of materials and finishes.
Mineral Fiber Tiles
High density mineral fiber pulp formed into tiles with a binder, available in a range of textures from stippled to smooth. White mineral fiber tiles are commonly seen in commercial interiors, office ceilings and residential projects.
Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles
Glass fiber strands formed into tiles with a binder. Like mineral fiber tiles, these are commonly used in institutional and commercial interiors.
Recycled Content
New acoustical mineral fiber tiles are composed of a large proportion of recycled ceiling tiles. Recycling ceiling tiles helps to reduce the costs of processing new material and diverts construction waste from being dumped in landfills.
Wood Ceiling Tiles
Wood veneer mounted on a hard backing panel. To achieve acoustical damping an acoustical blanket is laid on or adhered to the back of the ceiling tiles. To increase the acoustical effectiveness the wood panels may be perforated.
Metal Ceiling Tiles
Perforated thin metal sheets preformed into ceiling tiles come in a large range of metal finishes and perforation patterns. An acoustical blanket is often incorporated into the back of the panel above the ceiling. Metal acoustical ceiling tiles are most often seen in commercial environments.
Textured ceilings add a certain je ne sais quoi to any room. However, they can be expensive. The crème de la crème would have to be tin ceilings because of their intricate detail and design, but these are even more expensive. Fear not: there is a less expensive alternative in Styrofoam ceiling tiles that are so well crafted they can look like the real thing but at a fraction of the cost.
Instructions
1. Prepare the ceiling. Remove any loose paint with a paint scraper, and fill in any holes with drywall mud or gypsum. Sand smooth, and then clean to remove any oil, dirt or dust.
2. Use a chalk line to find the center of your ceiling. Snap a line from corner to diagonal corner (left to right and right to left). Snap a line from the middle of each side to the one directly across from it. Thanks to the first marks, you'll divide the ceiling up into four triangles. Thanks to the second marks, you'll divide the ceiling into four squares.
3. Apply dollops of ceramic adhesive to the back of each Styrofoam ceiling tile. Add dollops to each of the four corners and one in the middle. It's not necessary to smooth the adhesive to the back of the tile.
4. Press the first Styrofoam ceiling tile to the ceiling in the center of the ceiling, the edges lined up so that the upper-left corner touches the center part and its outer edge is lined up with the outside of the wall. Press the ceiling tile firmly with your hands. This spreads the adhesive evenly.
5. Continue pressing the other Styrofoam ceiling tiles to the ceiling using the same steps in Step 3 and 4. Be careful to line up any lines in the ceiling tile's patterns to make the finished product look like one large covering instead of many parts put together.
6. Fill in any gaps between the tiles with caulk. This will further the illusion of one continuous ceiling covering. Use a caulk gun to apply the caulk.
7. Use a wet sponge to clean up any excess caulk or adhesive.
Tags: ceiling tile, Styrofoam ceiling, adhesive back, ceiling into, ceiling into four
The attic access door is often the name used to describe push-up-type access panels, knee-wall doors or any type of entry point into the attic space. The most common of these is the push-up-type panel that is simply drywall or plywood held in place by simple wood trims. These panels are often found in hallways, closets, garage spaces or areas of the home where the panel will not be highly noticeable, yet provide easy access for storage or maintenance. Adding an access panel to your attic is usually not difficult.
Instructions
1. Select a closet ceiling or hallway ceiling with good floor space underneath, since you will need to use a ladder to access your attic. Move a stud finder across your ceiling to locate the joists. Mark each joist location with a pencil. Your joists should be 16 to 24 inches on center. This is wide enough for a panel.
2. Measure and draw the width between the joists and 28 to 30 inches for the length of the panel. Use a narrow drywall saw and cut along your joist lines first. You should feel the saw touching the side of the joist as you cut. Make your cross cuts using a utility knife. You are trying to save the drywall panel so work slowly to make clean cuts. Keep in mind when you lower the panel, fiberglass will fall, so protect your eyes, face and hands and be prepared to push the loose fiberglass to one side.
3. Measure between the joists and cut two boards to fit, one on each side of the opening. These should be at least 2 by 6 inches in size. Insert each board just beyond the cut line where you removed the drywall. Toenail the board into the joist so that the bottom of the 2-by-6-inch board is level with the bottom of the joist. Use three to four nails or screws per board end.
4. Cut the drywall 1/2-inch smaller on each side. Cut 1/2-inch plywood the same size as the smaller drywall. Apply construction adhesive and attach the drywall to the plywood.
5. Measure and cut 2-inch trim to fit around the opening in the ceiling. The trim should overhang the opening by a half-inch to three-quarters of an inch toward the center. This will form a lip to hold the access panel flush with the ceiling.
6. Cut insulation to fit on the plywood side of the access panel. Staple twine to the plywood and crisscross the insulation with the twine front to back and side to side without compressing the insulation. You want the insulation to be held in place when the panel is closed.
7. Add wood fill and caulk, and paint your new ceiling trim to match other trim in your home.
Tags: access panel, between joists, ceiling trim, center This, drywall plywood
To install speakers into your walls or ceiling, you'll need to run the wires through the walls and mount the speakers to supports. Whether you choose to install your speakers in the walls or ceiling makes little difference in the sound quality.
Instructions
1. Locate the studs closest to where you'd like to install your speaker. You'll want to install the speakers in between the studs.
2. Tape the template that comes with the speakers in the center of the nearest studs. Check to make sure your configuration is level and plumb. Your template will tell you exactly what size hole to drill to insert the speakers. Trace the opening you need to cut into the wall or ceiling.
3. Cut the hole using a keyhole saw or a drywall saw. Keep the section you cut open in case you can't install the speaker and need to patch the hole you just made. If the hole reveals plumbing, you need to relocate the speaker.
4. Run the speaker wire through the wall, or fish speaker wire from an existing installation.
5. Install the brackets to support your speaker if one is included with your speakers. Some speakers use clips to secure them to the inside of the wall.
6. Strip the protective coating from the end of the speaker wire, and insert it into the speaker jacks. Test your speakers now if the wires are attached to an audio source. If not, locate the other end of the speaker wire and hook it up. Testing now will save trouble if you run into problems.
7. Surround the speaker with insulation to enhance the sound. Secure the speaker into place, and do any necessary patching or painting.
More often than not, balance kits can eliminate movement caused by blade imbalance.
Regency ceiling fans combine mechanical soundness with a practically limitless number of style and design choices. With Regency's network of authorized retailers as well as its website, Regencyfans.com, customers have different ways to get questions answered or get assistance. Generally, issues with Regency fans are minor and can be fixed by systematically troubleshooting the fan and its installation.
Instructions
1. Turn on the fan and watch it very intently to detect any movement, wobble or vibration. Turn the fan off if you notice movement, since more than likely the fan blades are out of balance or the mounting simply needs tightening.
2. Most motion problems are found in the base attachment or the arms and their blades.
Remove the fan blades, turn the fan back on and check closely for movement. Check the mount, if it still moves. If you find the mount to be secure, it is in the motor that's malfunctioning. Call the retailer from whom you purchased it. Use the balance kit to even out the blades of the fan if you see no movement with the blades removed.
3. Check the fan for the cause of any noises you may hear while it's running. Listen for the kind of noise and any odors you may smell. Refer to the owner's manual for your particular model and review replace the drive capacitor if you hear a sizzling noise and smell a burning odor. Evaluate this repair as it is described in the manual to decide whether you want to attempt it, or a serviceman needs to do it.
4. Any movement left in the base attachment will be transferred to the ceiling fan when it is turned on.
Look at whether or not the fan was mounted directly to a ceiling joist if you hear a humming noise. Often even the slightest movement from a fan mounted directly to a ceiling joist will cause amplified noise. Use the sound insulators, which come with each fan, to see if the noise stops.
5. Take off the housing cover to inspect the mesh that covers the upper and lower vents if you hear any clicking noise. Refer to your owner's manual for do this with your particular model. Order and replace the motor in the fan if you hear a grinding noise in the fan when it is running on any speed.
6. Ceiling fans hung too high will do little to circulate the air 15 or 20 feet below.
Measure the distance from the ceiling to the fan blades, if there is no air movement from the fan, even though the motor is running and the blades are turning. Adjust and re-hang the fan so the blades are roughly at 8 feet off the floor in a room with 9-foot ceilings or higher.
Tags: your particular model, base attachment, ceiling joist, directly ceiling, directly ceiling joist, mounted directly
Pull ups can help you reach your optimal fitness level.
Pull-up bars come in many forms, such as between-pulley systems, freestanding pieces or steel frames to attach to wall and doorway The bar can be straight or curved and have attachments, such as handles to allow the palms to face each other. Assembling and hanging a wall-mounted frame will vary by manufacturer, but some basic steps ensure a strong and stable bar when you use it.
Instructions
1. Check the installation area. The wall needs to be load-bearing with studs spaced at 16 inches. The ceiling needs to be high enough for you to perform the motion of the pull up without hitting your head.
2. Mark the location where the top of the mount will be attached to the wall stud. Double check the clearance to the ceiling when you will perform the exercise.
3. Install the top brackets of the back mount in the locations you marked. These brackets should screw into the wall studs. Drill pilot holes to make the process easier.
4. Place the top of the pull-up bar onto the brackets. The front of the bar should extend at least 1-foot out from the wall so that your legs won't hit the wall during exercise.
Tulle and English netting come in a plethora of colors.
Ceiling draping is a popular way to add elegance to a boring or unattractive room. Attaching tulle and lights to a ceiling is a time consuming task that if done right gives a room a soft glow that exudes romance. Depending on the look you are going for you can use tulle or English netting for this project. Tulle is inexpensive but is also stiff while English netting is soft and more flowing. Either fabric choice will look nice with the white string lights. Ceiling draping can be used to decorate wedding venues, holiday parties, dances and bedrooms. Ask the venue manager about the rules on hanging things from the ceiling before starting this project.
Instructions
Preparing The Tulle And Lights
1. Find the center of the ceiling. Measure six equal points from the center of the ceiling to the walls. Mark the six points with a piece of painter's tape.
2. Cut six strands of tulle to 6 feet longer than the measurements. Lay the tulle stands out flat.
3. Lay a strand of white string lights in the center of each strand of tulle. Tie the lights to the tulle every 12 inches by threading twist ties or string through the holes in the tulle and up around the light cords.
Attaching To Drop Ceilings
4. Lay out the tulle with the connected lights from the center of the room out to the first point marked with painter's tape. Position the tulle so the ends of the lights that will be connected to extension cords are closest to the walls. Connect the lights to electrical cords if needed.
5. Set your ladder in the center of the room. Take one end of the tulle with you up the ladder. Wrap a twist tie or piece of string around the closest beam. Lift off the ceiling panels on both sides of the beam, slide them away from the beam. Hold the end of your tulle up to the beam. Wrap a twist tie around the tulle and up over the beam. Twist the ends of the twist tie so they hold the tulle securely. Repeat until all the ends of the tulle are connected in the center. Lift the ceiling panels up and slide them back into place.
6. Place your ladder under a point marked with painter's tape. Take the other end of the tulle with you up the ladder. Find the closest beam. Push the ceiling panels on the sides of the beam up and over to reveal the sides of the beam. Take the end of the tulle and press it against the beam. Wrap a twist tie around the tulle then up and over the beam. Twist the ends of the tie over the beam to secure the tulle. Lift the ceiling panels up and slide them back into place.
Attaching To Non-drop Ceilings
7. Ask the vender manager what type of fastener can be used on the ceiling. Hooks that are screwed into the ceiling or removable hooks can both be used for this project.
8. Attach a large hook to the center of the room by using a ladder. Place six removable hooks equally around a light fixture if there is one in the center of the room. Do not use screw-in hooks around electrical wires or ceiling fixtures because the screw could be anciently screwed into a wire causing electrocution.
9. Place hooks at each point marked with painter's tape.
10. Create a hanger by wrapping a string around each end of the tulle and lights then double knotting it. Tie the free ends of the string together to create a loop.
11. Attach the tulle and lights to the center of the ceiling. Set your ladder in the center of the room. Bring the ends of the tulle up to the large center hook(s.) Loop the string hanger over the hook to secure the tulle to the ceiling. Repeat until all the tulle ends are connected to the center hook.
12. Attach the tulle and lights to the hooks around the room. Place your ladder under a hook. Bring the end of the tulle up the ladder with you. Loop the string hanger around the hook to secure the tulle and lights to the ceiling. Repeat around the room until all the tulle and lights are attached to the ceiling.
Tags: center room, ceiling panels, painter tape, your ladder, center ceiling, English netting, Lift ceiling
Cathedral, or vaulted, ceilings are raised on the inside to give more headroom and an ornamental look to the room. The edges around the room may be finished with crown molding, which complements the look of the raised ceiling. Crown molding is tricky to install because it is nailed on at an angle. With vaulted ceilings you can install crown molding around the inside of the ceiling so you only have 45-degree angles to cut. You can also cover the sloped edges that lead up to the vaulted ceiling, depending on the look you are trying to achieve.
Instructions
1. Calculate the length of each wall section where you want to install the molding with a measuring tape. For outside corners, the longer part of the mitered edge will be at the top of the molding. For inside corners, the longer edge is on the bottom. Keep this in mind when you cut the molding later.
2. Measure the slopes on the walls leading to the vaulted ceiling with an angle measuring tool. These tools are designed specifically for measuring crown molding angles. Note the angle for each corner you are going to cover with molding.
3. Lay your molding upside down in the miter saw with the saw set to the angle you are cutting. For example, if you are cutting a square corner, set the molding to a 45-degree angle. Align the edge of molding so it fits as it would on the wall. The middle of the crown molding will be exactly opposite the 90-degree corner of the saw. Each edge of the crown molding will sit flush against the walls of the saw.
4. Cut the molding with the power miter saw. If you are working on an inside corner, keep the measurements so the bottom edge is the full length of the molding. Remember that the molding is upside down in the saw.
5. Hold the corner pieces together after you make the cuts to ensure they fit nicely.
6. Install the molding at an angle in the vaulted ceiling so the edges are flush against the ceiling and wall. Align the molding so the miter joints fit snugly together.
7. Drive nails into the top and bottom of the molding with a nail gun every 2 feet. Add extra nails on the studs. Drive the nails deep into the wood so the head can't be seen from the outside.
A vapor barrier paint is often applied with beadboard insulation for moisture control.
Insulation can increase the energy efficiency of your basement and make your home more comfortable. There are many different types of insulation that will work on your basement ceiling. Beadboard comes in panels or sheets and is an effective type of insulation many homeowners can install themselves.
Identification
Foam board insulation is typically made from materials such as polyurethane or polystyrene. One particular type of foam board insulation can be formed to insulate many items, such as coffee cups, or is available in sheets or panels to use as insulation. Molded, expanded polystyrene foam board is more commonly known as beadboard and is often applied to insulate homes. Polystyrene beads are placed in beadboard to help increase its strength.
R-Value
The R-value of your insulation determines how well it will work when installed in your basement. The United States Department of Energy states that the R-value measures the insulation's ability to resist heat flow. The R-value depends on the type of insulation you choose and its thickness. When choosing insulation, remember that the higher the R-value, the more effective it will be. Beadboard has an R-value of 3.8 to 4.4 per inch of thickness.
Installation
Before installing beadboard to your basement ceiling, you must first check for moisture damage in your basement. If you see water stains or mold growth, you must locate the source of moisture and repair it before adding insulation, as insulation is less effective when wet. Seal all air leaks with caulk. It is possible to install beadboard yourself, but all areas of the ceiling must be covered thoroughly for best results. Check with your county building office regarding fire codes before installing beadboard. There are a variety of licensed insulation installers qualified to install beadboard. If you consult a professional installer, get three estimates before choosing a contractor.
Considerations
Moisture can be a problem when using beadboard insulation, as the spaces between the foam beads can absorb and hold water, causing damage to your ceiling. Adding a vapor barrier before installing beadboard panels may help reduce moisture damage. Vapor barriers are membranes or coatings that reduce the amount of moisture that comes through the ceiling. Paint is an effective vapor barrier and works well when many layers of paint are applied before installing beadboard.
Tags: your basement, installing beadboard, before installing, before installing beadboard, vapor barrier, basement ceiling
Suspended ceilings work well in virtually any room of a house, but are especially common in a basement remodel. The first step in hanging a suspended ceiling is making the ceiling grid. This includes planning the layout and hanging the grid bars. Take your time to ensure the grid is level from front to back and from side to side. A lopsided grid gives the suspended ceiling a wavy appearance.
Instructions
1. Measure the room's length, using a tape measure. Divide this measurement by the length of the ceiling tile you will use (either 24 inches or 48 inches). More than likely you will be left with a few extra inches that will result in smaller grid openings and cut tile. Position these smaller sections along the room's perimeter.
2. Repeat Step 1, using the room's width instead of length. Draw a rough sketch of what the ceiling grid will look like on a piece of paper.
3. Measure 4 inches down the wall from the ceiling joists and make a mark. Set up a laser level in the middle of the room. Aim the laser at the mark so it shoots all the way around the room, 4 inches below the ceiling joists.
4. Run a stud finder along the laser line. Mark each stud you find. Hold a piece of perimeter molding against one wall. If necessary, cut the perimeter molding with tin snips to fit from wall to wall. Line up the perimeter molding's top edge with the laser line. Hammer 6d nails through the molding and into the wall studs you located.
5. Butt the perimeter moldings' edges together at inside corners, with one of the perimeter moldings tight in the corner. Keep both perimeter moldings' top edges lined up with the laser line. At the outside corners, miter the two perimeter moldings' ends to a 45-degree angle so they butt up together to form a 90-degree angle around the corner.
6. Run a chalk line perpendicular with the ceiling joists. Position the chalk line where the first grid bar will go according to the plans you determined in Step 1. Snap the chalk line against the ceiling joists. Measure along the ceiling, from the first chalk line to the next grid bar, and snap a second chalk line. Continue along the ceiling until you mark each grid bar location.
7. Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole through the first ceiling joist marked with the first chalk line. Screw a small eyebolt into the pilot hole. Move down three ceiling joists and make a second pilot hole for a second small eyebolt. Work your way along the first chalk line, placing an eyebolt in every third ceiling joist. Then, move to the second chalk line. Repeat until you have screwed eyebolts into every third ceiling joist for every chalk line.
8. Cut a 10-inch piece of hanger wire for each eyebolt. Insert 3 inches of a piece of hanger wire into the first eyebolt. Bend the wire down and twist it around itself three times. Repeat with each eyebolt.
9. Aim a laser level at the first row of hanger wires. Set the laser level so it hits the perimeter molding's bottom edge. Bend each wire into an L shape where the laser hits it. Repeat with each remaining row of hanger wires.
10. Position a runner perpendicular with the ceiling joists. Set each end on the perimeter molding. Line it up underneath the first snapped chalk line. Insert the hanger wires' bend ends through the holes in the runner's top edge. Bend the wires up and around themselves to help support the runner. Repeat this step with a runner under each chalk line. If necessary, snap two runners together to form a longer runner, or cut the runners with a tin snips to form shorter runners.
11. Snap cross tees between the runners. Space the cross tees 24 inches apart. If you have smaller grid openings along the room's perimeter, cut the cross tee to the opening's gap. Snap the uncut end into the runner and rest the cut end on the perimeter molding.
Tags: chalk line, ceiling joists, perimeter molding, perimeter moldings, ceiling joist, first chalk, first chalk line
In the midst of a troubled economy, staunch advocates of tight fiscal policy have no hesitation with cutting social services, reducing military spending or slashing salaries as means of maintaining a balanced budget. Others take the opposite approach and advocate stimulating the economy by loosening the monetary policy. Examples of such policies include raising the debt ceiling and introducing liquidity into the economy through low interest rates and quantitative easing programs. A loose monetary policy has a number of effects.
Unemployment
The chairman of the Federal Reserve often uses monetary policies as a way to influence the unemployment rate. For instance, Ben Bernanke's April 2011 press conference revealed his belief that introducing inflation by keeping interest rates low is a tradeoff that can help lower the unemployment rate. In this case, low interest rates provide an incentive for corporations to borrow more money and hire workers. Such rates also give consumers easier access to credit by which they can purchase goods and services. Nonetheless, low interest rates encourage taking on debt. This is counter to the principles of adhering to a strict monetary policy.
Inflation
Inflation is a natural effect of loosening monetary policies. In the case of quantitative easing, the Federal Reserve increases the money supply by buying assets. Lowering interest rates also increases the money supply by encouraging borrowing, which in turn increases the number of issued loans. When the money supply increases, the value of the dollar weakens thereby requiring more of them to purchase goods and services. Inflation deters consumers from saving money because of inflation's erosive effects on the dollar's purchasing power.
Economic Growth
Loosening the monetary policy may improve economic growth if companies and individuals are willing to take on debt. Economic stimulus was effective in catalyzing the economy into full employment during WWII and after the Great Depression. However, if the market is hyper risk-averse on account of a poor economic outlook injecting the economy with liquidity does little to boost the economy. As explained by John B. Taylor in the book, "Principles of Economics," this problem occurred shortly after the financial crisis in 2008. In fact, the U.S. experienced a liquidity trap, or, a situation where interest rates held at near zero percent provided no boost to lending. This in turn compelled Ben Bernanke to engage in two rounds of quantitative easing.
Consumer Spending
Consumers sometimes respond to a loose monetary policy by spending more disposable income. However, this is usually in response to having a sense of job security based on positive employment indicators and a robust stock market. Indeed, consumer spending is psychological. Thus, loose monetary policies partly work based on people's mere beliefs that they will improve economic conditions.