Cut Drop Ceiling Tiles

Drop ceiling tiles, also known as acoustical tiles, are made of a composite material. The standard sizes for acoustical ceiling tiles are 2-by-2 foot and 4-by-2 foot. Drop ceiling tiles are available in either a flat lay or a recessed grid. Both sizes and types of tile are cut using the same tools and techniques. The utility knife is used to cut long smooth cuts. A keyhole or drywall saw is used to make holes on the face of the tile.

Instructions

1. Cut the ceiling's border drop ceiling tiles to size. Measure the distance from the border grid mounted to the wall to the center of the first T-bar. Place the tile on a firm flat surface. Deduct 1/4 inch from the measurement and mark the front face of the acoustical ceiling tile, on both ends, with the pencil. Always mark and cut ceiling tiles on the finished face. Cutting from the back of the tile can cause parts of the face to chip away and blemish the tile.

2. Insert the tip of the utility knife blade into the acoustical ceiling tile on one of the pencil marks. Place the 5-foot straight edge against the utility knife blade. Align the straight edge with the pencil mark on the other end of the tile. Keep the distance off the line equal to the distance at the utility knife blade.

3. Drag the utility knife along the straight edge. Keep pressure on the straight edge with one hand to keep the straight edge from moving. Move the knife slowly. Relocate your hand that is holding the straight edge as needed to keep the straight edge in place. If the cut is not all the way through the tile, make an additional pass along the straight edge with the utility knife.

4. Clear the loose acoustical ceiling particles from the cut by running your hand over the cut edge. Repeat the process until all border tiles are cut to size.

5. Measure the location of holes and notches. Air conditioning vents, recessed lights and outside corners are all examples of common holes and notches that need to be cut into drop ceiling tiles. Measure the location for the holes off of two of the T-bars that border the acoustical tile that needs to be notched. Mark the location of the hole on the face of the tile. Draw straight lines for each side of the hole.

6. Hold the acoustical tile upright on a four-foot edge. Insert the tip of the keyhole saw into the ceiling tile on the pencil mark of one side of the hole. Move the tip slightly by twisting the keyhole saw handle back and forth. Tilt the saw blade toward the cut. Push the keyhole further into the ceiling tile. Use light pressure while sawing the tiles to reduce the chance of breaking the tile. Pull the keyhole saw toward you while maintaining slight pressure downward. Repeat the process for each side of the hole. Cut out a notch by starting where the pencil line intersects the edge of the tile.

7. Clean up the edges of the keyhole saw cuts by running your hand along the cuts of the hole. If the face of the tile receives damage from the cut of debris, apply white correction fluid (the kind you would use on a printed typing mistake) to the damaged area of the face. This will conceal the damage if the tile is white. If your acoustical ceiling tile is another color, use a matching touch up paint color to fix the tile face.

Tags: straight edge, ceiling tiles, utility knife, acoustical ceiling, ceiling tile, acoustical ceiling tile

Install Flushmount Ceiling Lights

Install Flush-Mount Ceiling Lights

Flush-mount ceiling lights are a common way to light any room. They provide enough light to brighten a 12-by-12-foot room with an 8-foot ceiling. The higher the ceiling, the higher the flush-mount ceiling light installs, creating a broader spread of light from the fixture. Knowing install flush-mount ceiling lights gives you the opportunity to change the appearance of any room in your home by changing the light.

Instructions

1. Disconnect the lighting circuit at the main breaker panel by turning off the circuit breaker. Confirm the breaker is off and the power has been disconnected, using a two-prong electrical tester. Locate the black wire inside the ceiling junction box. Touch one prong of the tester to the black wire and the other prong to any metal on the junction box. The tester should not light if the power has been disconnected correctly.

2. Attach the fixture crossbar to the electrical box in the ceiling. The fixture crossbar is a flat piece of metal 4 inches long and 1 inch wide with several openings cut into it. The bar attaches to the box with screws provided with your light fixture and a screwdriver.

3. Wire the base of the flush mount light. With a partner holding the base, connect the black wires from the light fixture to the black wire from the junction box, using an orange wire connector. Repeat this connection for the white wire from the fixture and the white wire from the junction box. Connect the bare copper wire from the junction box to the green ground wire on the light fixture with an orange wire connector.

What Kind Of Finish Do I Want On Ceiling Paint

Choose a mildew-resistant semigloss paint for the bathroom ceiling.

Painting a ceiling is a challenging job. Ladders, drop cloths, paint sprayers and roller brushes with long extension handles are all tools for the task. After debating over paint colors and finishes for walls and trim, however, painters may overlook the range of options available for painting a ceiling. Paint manufactures offer a "ceiling paint" for those painters who want a typical flat white paint. Depending on the room you are painting, though, you may find other finishes are better to use.

Bathrooms

Because a bathroom is exposed to humid conditions, the ceiling paint must be resistant to mildew. Mildew is the beginning stage of mold, and it appears as dark spots on a ceiling, often forming over the shower area. Paint manufacturers now offer mildew-resistant paints in a variety of sheen choices. Latex semigloss paint offers a more waterproof finish than a flat paint and is often used on bathroom ceilings because it is easier to clean and scrub.

Room Size

The treatment of a ceiling can make a room seem larger or smaller. Painting the ceiling in a dark color with a low-luster sheen makes a room seem smaller. This can be an effective decorating technique to use if you want to make a large room with a high ceiling feel more intimate. On the other hand, a light-colored paint with a flat finish makes a small room feel larger. This also helps make a room with a low ceiling seem bigger.

Special Effects

A painter can add a creative flair to a ceiling with a decorative finish. The Benjamin Moore paint company, for example, markets metallic paint and glazes that you can use with a stencil to create the look of an old-fashioned tin ceiling. You can also apply texture to a ceiling to add interest. Ceiling textures include popcorn, orange peel and knockdown effects. You can paint or spray textures on the ceiling. For an extra sparkle, apply a clear paint containing glitter effects, or spray the sparkles on a popcorn-textured ceiling.

VOC

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are chemicals emitted as gases from paint as it is applied to a surface and dries. Exposure to VOCs may be hazardous to a person's health. The federal government regulates the VOC content in paint, but allows for glossy paints to have a higher VOC content than flat paints. Thus, unless the paint manufacturer has modified its formulas to remove VOCs, a flat finish may be preferred for health reasons when painting the ceiling in children's rooms.

Tags: flat finish, make room, room seem, room with, semigloss paint, than flat

Wire Stereo Speakers In A Ceiling

Ceiling-mounted speakers are inconspicuous.

The only experience better than enjoying a great-sounding stereo is enjoying a great sounding stereo without seeing the speakers. This plus is the premise behind ceiling-mounted speakers. Wiring specially-designed ceiling speakers can provide your room with gorgeous music or pulse-pounding surround sound without the clunky look of space-eating speakers. This straightforward job doesn't require prior electrical experience. However, certain steps must be followed to ensure proper installation and accurate sound reproduction.

Instructions

1. Chart the layout of your stereo system. Determine the ideal placement of your speakers. This decision is important if your stereo system also provides surround sound for your home entertainment system. Use the measuring tape to ensure even spacing and proper placement.

2. Use the stud finder to locate the ceiling joists. If a ceiling joist is found in one of the spots where you were planning on installing a ceiling speaker, make whatever adjustment is necessary to avoid the ceiling joist.

3. Hold the speaker housing template against the ceiling where you are planning on installing the speaker. Trace it with a pencil.

4. Cover the ground and furniture with drop cloths before you start cutting to prevent the drywall dust from getting over everything. Use the drywall saw to cut out the speaker outlines on the ceiling.

5. Enter the attic above the room you're working in (if possible). Drill a hole through the top plate on the wall where the speaker wire will be entering the ceiling. If attic access isn't possible, you will have to cut away drywall on both the wall and the ceiling at the point where you need to get the speaker wire through the top plate. A drill with an extended keyhole saw will help you get a hole through the thick wooden top plate.

6. Cut another section of drywall away on the wall at the point where the speaker wire will be entering the wall. If you are using a terminal box, ensure the cut is no bigger than the size of the box.

7. Fish the wire up the wall and across the ceiling until it comes through one of the speaker holes. Using a nonmetallic wire-pulling fish tape will make this an easier job, especially if you're pulling the wire across the ceiling joists.

8. Label the speaker wire where it comes out of the wall to make it easier to keep track of which speaker the wire is feeding. For example, if the speaker wire is feeding the rear right speaker in a surround sound system, wrap a piece of tape around the wire and write RR for rear, right.

9. Install the speaker's housing in the ceiling according to the manufacturer's instructions.

10. Strip about 3/4 inch of insulation away from the ends of the speaker wire using the wire strippers.

11. Connect the speaker wire to the speaker according to the manufacturer's instructions. Speaker systems vary but most have either compression connectors or screw-type connectors.

The most important aspect to remember when wiring the speakers is to get the polarity correct. The wire that's connected to the positive terminal on the speaker needs to be connected to the positive terminal on the stereo receiver. If the polarity gets crossed, static or interference will be the result, or the speaker may not work at all.

Tags: speaker wire, speakers This, surround sound, your stereo system, according manufacturer, according manufacturer instructions, across ceiling

Install Fake Ceiling Beams

A wood beam installed on the ceiling adds architectural interest to a room. A fake ceiling beam adds this detail at a fraction of the cost of a real, hand-hewn wood beam. Faux wood beams come in a variety of wood-look choices. You can find beams with smooth surfaces, as well as beams that look like they are hand-cut. A faux wood beam is much lighter than its wood counterpart because it is made of high-density polyurethane, surfaced on three sides with wood veneer. One person can install a 20-foot beam by himself, but a helper makes the job easier.

Instructions

1. Measure the width of the inside portion of the faux wood beam. Cut several blocks of scrap 2-by-4-inch lumber to this measurement with a circular saw.

2. Locate where you plan to hang the fake ceiling beam. Ensure the location runs at a right angle to the walls by checking the angle with a carpenter's square. Mark both sides of the location of the wood beam installation area by snapping parallel chalk lines or placing two rows of painter's tape on the ceiling.

3. Find the ceiling joists by running a stud finder along the ceiling surface. Mark the joist locations with a light pencil mark inside your parallel lines.

4. Measure two feet from the side wall on one side. Position one block of scrap wood on the joist closest to the two-foot mark. Keep the block inside the parallel lines you marked on the ceiling. Drive two screws through the block and into the joist. Repeat the process from the other side wall.

5. Add more wood blocks to the ceiling joists along your wood beam installation lines. Place them approximately three to six feet apart.

6. Measure how long the fake ceiling beam needs to be to fit between the walls. Cut the beam using a circular saw so that it's a tight fit.

7. Slide the beam over the blocks in the ceiling to ensure it's the right length. Trim any excess off the beam with the circular saw.

8. Insert a tube of construction adhesive into a caulk gun. Cut the tip with a knife at an angle to open the tube.

9. Press the caulk gun's trigger to spread the adhesive along the edge of the beam that goes against the ceiling. Firmly press the faux wood beam in place against the ceiling. Wipe off any adhesive that oozes out.

10. Attach the fake ceiling beam to the wood blocks, driving screws on both sides of each block you attached to the ceiling. Cover the screws with wood filler that matches the color of the faux wood beam.

Tags: wood beam, ceiling beam, fake ceiling, fake ceiling beam, faux wood beam, faux wood

Remove Recessed Lighting With Clips

Recessed lighting is installed in homes to be used as general lighting, task lighting, accent lighting and other specialized lighting effects based upon the trim installed in the fixture. Sometimes, a recessed can must be removed from the ceiling either for remodeling or replacing the light fixture. Removing a recessed light with clips is possible without having to access the attic.

Instructions

1. Turn off the circuit supplying electricity to the recessed lights by turning off the breaker at the main panel.

2. Test the electrical circuit to verify it has been disconnected. Use a two-prong electrical tester and insert one of the prongs into the recessed light socket and touch the other prong to the metal of the light fixture. If the electrical circuit has been disconnected, your light tester will not turn on. Remove the light trim by hand.

3. Remove the recessed light fixture. Inside the recessed light are four black clips that hold the fixture into the ceiling, and each clip has a small slot. Insert a flat-head screwdriver into the slot and push up toward the ceiling; this will release the clip and allow the recessed light fixture to be removed from the ceiling.

4. Pull the recessed fixture from the ceiling to access the electrical junction box attached to the fixture. Press your thumb on the tab that holds the cover onto the junction box to release it.

5. Disconnect the wires inside the junction box. Untwist all wire connectors holding all the wires together and pull the cable from the junction box. This allows the recessed light to be completely removed

Tags: recessed light, light fixture, from ceiling, been disconnected, electrical circuit

Install Exterior Outdoor Recessed Light Fixtures On A Soffit

Wire and install your exterior recessed lighting.

The overhang of your roof is designed to protect your walls and foundation from excess moisture as well as provide protection from rain over windows and entryways. A facia board installs between the exterior wall of your home and the edge of your roof to hide exposed rafters, creating a soffit. The space behind the soffit opens up into the attic of your home, providing an excellent area to install exterior outdoor recessed lighting to enhance the exterior of your home and add lighting to dark areas, increasing the security of your home.

Instructions

1. Place the recessed fixtures between windows, near the corners of your home or in areas around your home that require additional illumination.

2. Trace the recessed light fixture template onto the facia board of the soffit where you intend to install your exterior recessed lighting. When choosing the size of your remodel recessed fixtures, pick shallow, six-inch housings to accommodate the lack of depth in the soffit, or 4-inch recessed housings. Also, take into consideration the weatherproof light covers you intend to install on your fixtures to help determine the size of housing you choose.

3. Cut through the trace lines on the facia board with a rotary tool equipped with a multipurpose cutting bit. Carefully follow the trace lines to ensure your recessed fixture sets snugly in the soffit.

4. Cut one length of 12/2 nonmetallic electrical cable to reach from the first recessed lighting fixture in the run back to your power source. This wire is your power supply wire. Your power source could be a light switch for your exterior lighting by an entry door, or an independent circuit installed in your main breaker panel.

5. Cut additional lengths of electrical cable to daisy chain each recessed fixture to the one prior. Daisy-chaining the fixtures together allows you to turn on each recessed fixture with one switch. Add at least 1 foot of cable to each measurement to allow for the wiring connections.

6. Feed electrical cable from your power source to the first recessed light. Feed the additional lengths of cable from the first recessed light to each recessed light in the run along the soffit.

7. Press the tab holding the cover on the junction box attached to the tail of your recessed fixture. Insert a flat-head screwdriver into the slots on the junction box to pry out two of the 1/2-inch round knockouts.

8. Insert the threads of a 1/2-inch NM connector into the half-inch round opening. Secure the connector to the junction box by twisting a 1/2-inch lock nut onto the threads of the connector.

9. Repeat this process for each recessed fixture in the lighting run, with the exception of the last fixture. The last fixture should only have one knockout pried from the junction box.

10. Insert the electrical cable from your power supply through one of the NM connectors in your first recessed fixture junction box. Insert the cable connecting the first fixture to the next fixture through the second connector.

11. Use a cable ripper to remove 6 to 8 inches of exterior insulation from each electrical cable, exposing the interior bare copper, black and white wires. Use a set of wire strippers to remove about 3/4-inch of insulation from each cable's exposed black and white wires.

12. Connect the two black wires from the NM cables to the recessed lighting fixture's black wire inside the junction box. Use a twist-on wire connector to secure the wires together. Repeat this same connection for the two white wires from the NM cables and the white wire from the recessed lighting fixture, and with the bare copper wires and green ground wire inside the box.

13. Snap the recessed lighting junction box cover back onto the junction box. Tighten the screws on the wire connectors securing the NM cable into the box.

14. Insert the tail of the remodel recessed lighting fixture into the hole cut in the soffit. Hold the lip of the recessed fixture against the facia on the soffit with one hand. Use a flat-head screwdriver to push the black tabs, located along the inside wall of the recessed can, up until they snap into place and secure the recessed fixture in the soffit.

15. Repeat the same wiring connections and installation procedure for each additional recessed lighting fixture in the soffit.

16. Install a light bulb in each fixture. Refer to the list of light bulbs on the inside of your can that corresponds with the can and weatherproof trim you've chosen. You must use the correct size and wattage light bulb, or your lights could cycle off and on, flicker or create a fire hazard.

17.Squeeze the two wires of the butterfly springs on both sides of your recessed weatherproof trim together with your thumb and forefinger. Insert both springs into the brackets on the inside of your recessed fixture. Release the springs and push the trim against the soffit facia board.

18. Connect the power supply wire to your power source at a light switch or to a new circuit inside your breaker box once you finish installing your exterior outdoor recessed fixtures. Contact a licensed electrician if you're uncomfortable with connecting it to your home's electricity.

Tags: recessed fixture, recessed lighting, your home, electrical cable, lighting fixture, recessed lighting fixture

Repair A Ceiling Fan That Is Falling Down

Proper installation of a ceiling fan is integral to its longevity. Even the slightest mistake can end up in a wobbly fan. Man are installed off-balance, and end up shaking for years until they finally fall from the ceiling. If you're ceiling fan is wobbly, it is best to fix it before it falls.

Instructions

1. Make sure the power is shut off to the fixture. Turn the circuit off at the circuit breaker. Use a circuit tester to make sure the power is off.

2. Get a strong ladder and set it beneath the ceiling fan fixture. It is best to have two people, one to hold the fan, and the other to do the work. If you are alone, however, get a second ladder and place it next to yours. You can then place the fan on this ladder while you do your repairs.

3. Detach the wires from the ceiling and the fan. They will be attached with a wire nut. Simply unscrew the nuts and put them in a safe place for later.

4. Remove the fan blades from the motor and place in a safe place. Remove the ceiling fan cover from the motor.

5. Check the mounting brackets. If they have fallen, then re-attach them to the electrical box, otherwise just tighten the screws.

6. Use the wire nuts to re-connect the electrical wires based on color. Every wire in your fixture should correspond in color to a wire in your ceiling. Make sure they match up.

7. Secure the "grounding" wire to the mounting bracket, if applicable. This is typically a single, exposed wire. However, you should consult your owner's manual for specific instructions.

8. Attach the fan's motor to its mounting bracket. Turn the power back on and test to see that the fan is working. Tighten the motor to the mounting bracket.

9. Kill the power once again and put the cover on the fan. Once the motor is covered, you can start putting on the blades.

10. Turn the power back on and see if the fan is level. If the fan is not level, then level it based on the directions in your owner's manual.

Tags: mounting bracket, from ceiling, from motor, motor mounting, motor mounting bracket

Connect Ceiling Mount Speakers To A Sound System

Ceiling mount speakers offer improved listening enjoyment.

Many home entertainment systems include rear-projection speakers for surround sound. This design provides the maximum sound coverage that is adaptable to both music and movie soundtracks. In some cases, there may not be sufficient floor space for the rear speakers. Some people may just want to have ceiling mount speakers as part of an overall décor scheme. Connecting ceiling mount speakers to a sound system requires a certain amount of planning, as well as some knowledge of electronics and carpentry.

Instructions

1. Place the ladder where the first ceiling mount speaker will be installed. Take the mounting flange from the manufacturer's hardware kit and the ballpoint pen up the ladder and place flange against ceiling. Use pen to mark holes in the flange where screws will be placed.

2. Retrieve drill with ¼ inch bit and drill pilot hole in markings for flange screws. Retrieve screws from hardware kit, screw bit for drill and one ceiling mount speaker.

3. Place the flange on the speaker, hold against the ceiling, and drill mounting screws through the flange holes to attach speaker to ceiling. Move all materials with second ceiling mount speaker to next desired location. Repeat installation steps for previous ceiling mount speaker.

4. Attach 10 gauge speaker wire for both outputs to amplifier (depending on the amplifier, this may involve either simply connecting the speaker wire to posts on the amplifier or soldering the correct type of connecting plug to the speaker wire). Run wires to wall behind amplifier and secure to wall or baseboard using a drill with screw bit and speaker wire fastener with screws.

5. Run wires along bottom of wall to nearest corner. Attach to wall or baseboard with fastener. Run wires up corner, attaching to wall with fasteners up the length of the wall to ceiling using ladder.

6. Run wires along ceiling to corner nearest ceiling mount speakers, using ladder and fasteners. Run wires to first mounted speaker location.

7. Use wire cutters to cut one wire to attach to first ceiling mount speaker. Strip 3/8 inches from end of wire and attach to both live and ground speaker terminals (like the amplifier, this will be a simple connection or will require soldering). Run remaining speaker wire to second mounted speaker. Cut and strip wire and attach to speaker.

Tags: ceiling mount, ceiling mount speaker, mount speaker, speaker wire, mount speakers

Install A Heavy Punching Bag

Want to really get in shape? Whaling on a punching bag not only gives you a great cardiovascular workout, it also tones and strengthens your muscles, relieves stress and builds self-defense skills.

Instructions

1. Measure the area where you'll install the bag, compensating for the bag's height and the space you'll have to maneuver in during your workout.

2. Drill a hole into a hanging beam, ceiling stud or the top of a door frame. If you prefer, hang the bag from a sturdy pull-up bar installed in the doorway.

3. Screw an eyebolt (available at hardware stores) into the hole. Use eyebolts with longer shafts and screw them in using the end of a screwdriver as a lever.

4. Attach each of the chains atop the punching bag to an "S"-shaped hook. Most bags come with four chains or swivels.

5. Wrap each "S" hook with duct tape to secure each of the punching bag's chains.

6. Link the bottom end of another "S" hook onto the hanging hook of the punching bag. Secure this connection with duct tape.

7. Attach the top end of the same "S" hook onto the eyebolt in the drilled hole.

Tags: duct tape, hook onto, with duct, with duct tape

Why Does My Garage Floor Sweat

Treat your garage floor properly to avoid sweating slab syndrome.

A garage floor that sweats produces moisture that can be dangerous for people who are walking or working in the garage. If you have checked to make sure that the floor doesn't leak and that no water is coming in under the doors, your garage floor might be sweating. This condition, also known as sweating slab syndrome, also affects warehouses and sheds and is important to fix right away.

Causes

As warm and humid air enters the garage through the doors, the vents or the windows, it diffuses through the air and condenses on the garage floor. This process is most common when the air contains a great deal of humidity and when there has been a recent rise in the temperature. Salt from within the concrete itself can also attract water and cause sweating to appear on the garage floor's surface. You might also notice sweating if the garage floor is dirty. Dirt, grime and grease can cause water to bead up on the garage's surface.

Cleaning

Keep your garage floor clean in order to prevent sweating. Remove any dirt or grime using commercially available cleaning products that are rated for garage floors, and sweep the floor regularly to ensure that loose dust does not become caked onto the garage floor's surface.

Ventilation

To prevent humidity from creating the conditions favorable to sweating slab syndrome, keep the air flowing in the garage. Use a large ceiling fan or box fan to keep the air circulating in your garage on days in which you know that the humidity is going to be high. The fans dry off any water that has formed while preventing more from appearing on the garage's surface.

Sealing

Garage floors that have not been sealed are also prone to sweating. Before sealing your garage floor, scrub it down thoroughly and allow it to dry. This increases the sealant's ability to grip to the floor and it also ensures that you get a sleek, professional look. Seal your garage floor using a two-part epoxy and allow it to cure completely before using the garage.

Tags: your garage, your garage floor, garage floor, garage floor, slab syndrome, sweating slab

Glass Wall Effects

Glass walls have been used in skyscrapers for decades.

Glass wall effects can turn your home into a more interesting place. Some people might think of glass as something that is expensive or likely to break. However, if you use glass in certain aspects of construction and decor, you will love the ways that glass makes your home shine.

Active Walls

If you want to create glass walls for the exterior structure of the home, you can build active walls. A double layer of glass will collect solar energy or energy from the sun. This wall effect also helps to manage heating and cooling costs because when the interior envelope temperature of your home is realized, the glass walls will start to reflect thermal energy, which means you build with an exterior structural material with two purposes.

Glass Picture Wall

You can also use low-emissivity (low-e) glass in a floor-to-ceiling window that doubles as a wall. You might use this as an alternative to a picture window overlooking the backyard or a side garden. Low-emissivity glass reflects the sun's rays and minimizes the amount of thermal energy that heats up your home's building envelope. Let light enter the glass picture wall without overheating the exterior.

Curved Glass

Create a different kind of natural light effect for a breakfast room or even a wall in your bathroom with a wall of curved glass. This wall effect is ornate and pricier than flat glass walls but allows a lot of natural light to enter a home with southern exposure. If you have an extensive pool and patio area or outdoor landscaping in the backyard, the curved glass also brings nature into any room on the home's rear side.

Interior Wall

You can also use a glass wall as an interior wall to provide a view from one room into another. Enclose a formal dining room with clear glass walls, leaving enough room for a French door. This dining room space offers views of the other living areas, including the living and family rooms. Glass creates an illusion of an open floor plan even if a room is divided with this kind of interior wall.

Tags: your home, curved glass, dining room, glass walls, glass walls

Paint Paneled Ceilings

Sand vinyl, plastic and fiberglass paneled ceilings to make the paint stick to them.

If you are planning to paint paneled ceiling tiles, consider the following before you rush into the application process. While some ceiling panels are comprised of wood, other are made of nonporous vinyl, plastic and fiberglass. The latter surfaces are ill-suited for paint adhesion. Combat this by abrading each with sandpaper. Once you've prepared the paneled ceilings, they will accept primer and paint. Unfortunately, paneled ceilings are prone to runs and drips. Use a particular application strategy that will promote a smooth finish, free from minor flaws.

Instructions

1. Remove furniture and electronics from the room. Dust the paneled ceiling using a broom.

2. Scour vinyl, plastic and fiberglass panels using a palm sander stocked with 180-grit sandpaper. Stop when the ceiling feels slightly rough. Skip this step if the panels are not vinyl, plastic or fiberglass.

3. Line the tops of walls directly adjacent to the paneled ceilings with professional painter's tape. Protect the floor with fabric drop cloths.

4. Apply metal self-etching spray primer to the metal frames between each panel. Maintain an 8-inch distance between the frames and spray nozzle at all times. Wait three hours for the primer to dry. Skip this step if there are no metal frames.

5. Pour approximately 2 gallons of latex primer into a 5-gallon bucket. Fit your roller with a shed-free roller cover. Apply primer to a 4-foot-by-4-foot area of the paneled ceiling. Use a 3-inch polyester paintbrush to smooth runs and drips within that 4-foot-square area. Continue until the entire ceiling is coated with primer. Use the brush to touch up any areas skipped by the roller. Wait three hours for the primer to dry.

6. Wash the brush and roller with water.

7. Paint the paneled ceiling just as you primed it. Use a flat latex paint. Wait two hours for the paint to dry.

Tags: paneled ceiling, plastic fiberglass, vinyl plastic, vinyl plastic fiberglass, hours primer, metal frames

Paint A Cloud Mural

Let the sky be your inspiration when painting a cloud mural.

A cloud mural is a whimsical addition to any child's bedroom and looks great on the ceiling or upper wall. Cloud murals, when well executed, add color, texture and charm to the ceiling and/or upper wall of any room -- particularly a room where time is spent looking at the ceiling. Painting a cloud mural involves painting techniques that don't use a brush and are easily achievable even by those who don't have a lot of artistic skill.

Instructions

1. Paint the ceiling or wall a shade of light blue using a roller. If the previous color is white, you don't need to worry about covering every square inch solidly. It is OK if a little white shows through, it just enhances the imperfect nature of clouds.

2. Thin white paint with a small amount of glaze. Dip in a large sea sponge and squeeze it out. Dab in patches with the sponge, creating slightly oval, elongated shapes with irregular borders. Clouds are not perfect and no two are alike, so don't worry about trying to create a perfect shape. Just look at some picture of clouds or outdoors to help you get an idea of what the clouds look like.

3. Mix light gray paint with glaze and use it to add shadows to your clouds. Shadow all of your clouds on the same side so that your light source appears to be on one side of the clouds.

Tags: cloud mural, ceiling upper, ceiling upper wall, paint with, upper wall, worry about, your clouds

Tip For Installing Plank Paneling On Ceiling

If you plan to finish your plank ceiling with paint, you can do so after installation.

When it comes to creating a warm, cozy feel for your home, wood is an ideal decorating material. From flooring to wall paneling, it provides a natural element that gives a room a more welcoming vibe. However, wood isn't only for enhancing your floors and walls. Plank paneling can give your ceiling a rustic, cabin-like feel that instantly makes a room more inviting. If you like do-it-yourself projects, you can save money and install the plank paneling yourself. While it is a straightforward project, a few basic tips can help ensure that the installation goes smoothly.

Choose Tongue-and-Groove System

To make the installation process easier, choose a tongue-and-groove plank paneling system for your ceiling. As the name implies, some pieces in this type of system have tongues while others have grooves so the different pieces lock together. You must still nail or staple the planks to your ceiling, but you do not have to nail the individual planks to one another, which can save time during installation.

Think About Finishing

Before beginning your installation, determine whether you want to leave your ceiling planks with a natural finish or paint them. If you are painting your ceiling, you can apply the paint after installation. However, if you plan to leave the planks natural and use a polyurethane top coat, apply it before you install the planks. You can also use ceiling planks that are pre-finished to save yourself additional installation time.

Acclimate the Planks

Whether you are using wood or laminate paneling for your ceiling, the planks may expand or contract depending on the humidity in your home. As a result, you should acclimate the planks to the room where you plan to install them for several days to a week. Expansion or contraction will occur prior to installation, so you don't have to worry about problems occurring once the planks are already on the ceiling.

Measure for Cuts

Measure the length of your room before you begin installing your planks. Because they come in predetermined lengths, they may not fit your ceiling as they are. If you need to cut the planks, do so before installation to avoid having to go back and forth between cutting and installing. You may also need to cut the final plank on your ceiling width-wise to fit in place. Measure the width of the planks and your ceiling, and lay out a test run of the planks to see if you need to trim the end plank.

Install Perpendicular to Joists

For the easiest installation, install your plank paneling perpendicular to the ceiling joists. If you install them this way, you can nail the planks directly to the joists, so installation goes more quickly. However, if you opt to install the planks parallel to the joists, you must install furring strips first, placing them so they are perpendicular to the joists. You can nail the plank paneling in place once the furring strips are attached to the joists.

Tags: your ceiling, plank paneling, ceiling planks, after installation, furring strips

Finish A Low Basement Ceiling

Many people finish their basement to add living space and increase resale value. One of the challenging aspects of finishing a basement is deciding what to do with a low ceiling. Many products normally used for ceilings can make the ceiling appear even lower than it is.

Instructions

1. Check with your municipality or county to see if there is any code regulating what you can do to your basement ceiling. The code may regulate the height, type of ceiling, access to pipes and ducts and what can be exposed in a residential basement.

2. Spray paint the ceiling, including pipes and ducts, in a light color. Apply primer first, then spray with a latex spray paint suitable for metal. This is a painting job that can be messier and more difficult than most, so hiring a professional might be worth the cost.

3. Attach furring strips perpendicularly to the bottom of the joists. Check with a level every 2 to 3 feet. Use shims to adjust the height if necessary.

4. Hang drywall. Apply adhesive to furring strips. Start in a corner. Prop drywall against the ceiling with a drywall hanger. Nail to the furring strip. Continue until the first row is complete. Stagger the drywall on the remaining rows. Once the drywall is hung, tape the seams.

5. Put up ceiling tiles or wainscot paneling as an easier alternative to drywall. Apply adhesive to the underside of the furring strip. Staple or nail the material directly to the furring strip.

6. Purchase ACP's CeilingMax system. CeilingMax preserves the ceiling height, does not require leveling and is easy to install. Follow the directions to install CeilingMax. Add 2-by-4 foot or 4-by-4 foot tiles of your choice.

Tags: furring strip, Apply adhesive, Check with, drywall Apply, drywall Apply adhesive

Install Decorative Wood Beams

Decorative (faux) wood beams can add a rustic look to a cathedral ceiling. The lightweight beams are easy to install and don't add any structural load to the ceiling. Most are made of polyurethane and wood laminate or a stainable composite. Read on to learn install decorative wood beams.

Instructions

1. Measure your ceiling space and order the beams. When the beams arrive, set up your scaffolding or ladders to mark the ceiling. Rented scaffolding is the safest alternative.

2. Calculate and write down the angles at each end of the ceiling slope using the angle finder.

3. Mark the locations for multiple beams by snapping a chalk line on the ceiling for each beam's location. Mark the ceiling for the center of the beams after measuring the length of each one.

4. Install mounting blocks every 24 to 36 inches along the chalk line. Blocks should be mounted to ceiling joists whenever possible. Use 4-inch toggle bolts if there are no ceiling joists. Mounting blocks need to fit the interior dimension of the beam.

5. Cut the top end of the beam to the angle you measured earlier, measuring from the center mark you made. Then cut the bottom angle as well.

6. Place the beam over your mounting blocks. Make sure the beam is pushed up tight to the ceiling, then use 2-inch drywall screws to mount the beam to the blocks. You should have someone holding up the opposite end of the beam.

7. Fill the screw holes with color-matched wood filler.

Tags: ceiling joists, chalk line, mounting blocks, wood beams

Ideas For Cheap Bathroom Walls & Ceilings

Bathrooms require different materials than other rooms.

Bathrooms require special remodeling considerations than other rooms because of the constant threat of moisture damage. This means it isn't the best idea just to go with whatever material is least expensive because it may end up falling apart. However, that doesn't mean you can't save some money when you're putting in new walls and ceilings.

Tile

Tiles are probably the most common kind of material used for bathroom walls. They are waterproof and can be used to create inventive designs. Cheaper tiles work as well as more expensive varieties as long as they are installed correctly. Use a good waterproof mounting material, like concrete boards, and properly seal all the joints with high-quality grout. Less expensive glazed tile also can work just as well if installed correctly.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass is a cheap material that can be a good choice for bathroom walls. However, it can be more difficult to deal with fiberglass in terms of modifying it. Cheaper still are pre-made fiberglass molds of tubs or showers with walls included. If you can find one that fits the dimensions of your bathroom, fiberglass is an inexpensive water-resistant option.

Cladding

Bathroom ceilings are easy to overlook but require perhaps more foresight when choosing materials because of the potential for moisture damage. One cheap way to keep your bathroom ceiling looking nice is by cladding it with a water-resistant material. You can use PVC panels that are inexpensive and come in a variety of colors. Other kinds of plastic paneling also work. Painting the ceiling with water-resistant paint is another way to provide protection and color. But this may require more frequent maintenance because the water and steam from a shower can wear away even the toughest paint.

Tags: also work, bathroom walls, Bathrooms require, installed correctly, moisture damage, other rooms, than other

Installing Surround Sound Home Theater Speakers

Surround sound home theater speaker systems are matched sets of speakers designed to be installed as a set to provide a realistic sound stage for music and multichannel movies. Proper installation and setup of your home theater speaker system is essential if you want to enjoy the best-quality sound. With a little careful placement of your speakers and the proper wiring, you'll get the optimal sound out of your surround setup.

Instructions

1. Place your speakers. Many surround sound speaker systems use the same size of speakers for all of the speaker locations, with the exception of the center channel speaker, which will have a lower profile. However, some will have two larger speakers for the two front speakers. In a 5.1 system, place two speakers in front on either side of your video screen. Place the center channel directly above or below the video screen. Place the surround speakers one on either side of the listener, facing them. In a 6.1 system, add one speaker directly behind the listeners, facing them. In a 7.1 system, add two speakers behind the listener spaced a few feet to either side of the center.

2. Place the subwoofer. Subwoofers don't produce directional sound, so the location isn't crucial. Corners tend to give the best bass response.

3. Lay out your speaker wires. The wires that come with your surround sound speaker system will be marked or color-coded for each individual speaker. This makes it easier to ensure you've connected the correct output from your receiver or amplifier to the correct speaker. Route the wires so they don't interfere with the flow of traffic in your room-around the base of the wall usually works well.

4. Connect the ends of the speaker wires to the speakers. Speaker terminals vary in operation. For most, you push down on the terminal or a tab on the terminal to open a hole in the terminal. Slip the bare end of your speaker wire into the hole and release the tab or terminal to close the terminal onto the wire. Be sure the wire marked "+" is placed into the red terminal, and the wire marked "-" goes into the black terminal.

5. Connect the other ends of the speaker wires to the amplifier or receiver. The terminals will operate in a similar fashion to the speaker terminals. The terminals of the amplifier will be marked with the location of the receiver they power-be sure to match the proper output to the proper speaker. Remember that "left" and "right" refer to the perspective of someone listening to the system.

6. Plug your subwoofer cable into the subwoofer input jack on the subwoofer end, and into the "Sub Out" or "LFE" output of the receiver. Consult your receiver's manual if you're unsure of the location of the output.

Tags: either side, speaker wires, center channel, ends speaker, ends speaker wires, facing them

Install Curtain Rods Close To Ceiling

Cover tall windows by placing the curtain rod close to the ceiling.

Curtains installed close to the ceiling can block out more light seeping in from the window, cover taller windows or give the illusion of tall windows. You can install the mounts that hold the curtain rod in any place above, beside or even below a window as long as the screws can securely fasten to the wall.

Instructions

1. Read the curtain rod box description or instructions to determine the length of the rod.

2. Stand on sturdy chair or ladder.

3. Extend a measuring tape above the window the exact length of the curtain rod. Use the measuring tape to center and figure out the exact spot where you need to place each curtain rod mount. For instance, if your rod is 120 inches long, allow 116 to 118 inches between each mount. If there is a third mount, center it between the other two.

4. Mark the area on the wall where each mount will install with a pencil.

5. Place a ruler against the wall and draw a straight line to connect all of the mount marks.

6. Place a level along the line to make sure the line is level.

7. Turn on a stud finder. Move the stud finder from left to right over the marked areas to discover if there is a stud. If there is no stud, install wall anchors before screwing in the mount.

8. Drill a 3/8 inch screw hole with a power hand drill into the marked areas that don't have a stud behind them.

9. Fold the wings on the wall anchors in, then push the anchor into the hole. The wings will expand and help hold the mounts to the wall. Tap the anchor in with a hammer to make them flush with the wall.

10. Hold the curtain rod mounts flat against the wall, on top of or near the marks created in Step 4, or center it on the wall anchor.

11. Insert the tip of the pencil into the mount's screw holes to mark the position of the mount.

12. Pre-drill a hole into the wall where the screw hole marks are using a power hand drill or Philip's screwdriver. If you use wall anchors, screw through the hole provided in the center of the anchor.

13. Move the drill or screwdriver, then place the mount over the screw holes in the wall.

14. Insert the screws through the screw holes on the mount and tighten them into the pre-drilled holes in the wall with a screwdriver or drill.

15. Repeat the steps to screw in any additional mounts.

16. Place the rod into the mounts. Place a level on top of the rod to make sure it is level. If it is not, you may want to slightly adjust one or two of the mounts.

Tags: screw holes, wall anchors, against wall, close ceiling, each mount, hand drill

The Installation Of A False Ceiling

The Installation of a False Ceiling

False ceilings are also known as drop ceilings because they are hung or suspended under a primary ceiling. Installing a false ceiling can enhance the look of your home. False ceilings are practical because they cover and hide piping and wiring, offer a good way to install lighting and are always accessible for repairs. False ceilings vary in materials, shapes, sizes and installation systems, but the basic installation process is similar for any model.

Instructions

1. Measure the area you want to cover with a measuring tape and then make a sketch according to the dimensions of the room and the effect you want to achieve, using a paper and pencil.

2. Draw a line at the preferred height for your suspended ceiling all around the room. You're outlining the place where the side rails for the suspension system will be mounted and not the final edge of the ceiling. Check your model to plan the distance between the mounting rail and the final surface of the ceiling and make sure the lines for the side rails are level.

3. Attach the edges of the suspended ceiling system all around the walls of the room. The edges are usually metal side rails mounted around the whole diameter of the room, which hold the grid of the suspended ceiling. Follow the instructions for your ceiling assembly to properly mount the side rails. Hold the rails against the wall and mark the places for screws and then drill the holes with a power drill. Use the screws from the installation kit and tighten them with a Phillips-head screwdriver.

4. Attach the hooks that will hold the grid onto the primary ceiling. Use a hammer and follow the instructions from the installation kit to mark and measure the exact places for the hooks on the ceiling. Usually the pattern is an orderly grid with 3 to 4 feet between the hooks.

5. Install the suspended metal grid (the runners) by hanging it to the hooks on the primary ceiling. Use tin snips to cut the runners if needed. Otherwise, simply click the ends of runners together. The edges of the grid have to be securely fitted into the side rail outline around the room. This way the whole suspending system will be secured from two directions, making the ceiling assembly strong and stable. The grid will have holes the size and shape of your chosen ceiling panels, according to the assembly, design and disposition you ordered.

6. Add fixtures inside the space that will be covered by your new false ceiling. Hide any piping, ductwork and wires in the same space. If features still must be protruding through the ceiling or you already planned a lighting disposition, cut a hole on the ceiling tile before installment. Mark the size and location of the hole and use a utility knife to cut it out.

7. Place the drop ceiling panel inside the empty grid fields. Every field has a supporting system, so the panels should click into place or simply be placed on the runner, depending on whether you chose an invisible or semi-visible runner option.

Tags: side rails, False ceilings, primary ceiling, suspended ceiling, around room, because they, ceiling assembly

Install Crown Molding On Cathedral Ceilings

Crown Molding for Cathedral Ceilings

With foam crown molding, you can install crown molding on cathedral ceilings without the expense or expertise needed to install traditional wood molding. Foam crown molding is lightweight and easy to cut and glue. Plus, the molding company can miter the corners for a perfect fit. It is hard to tell the difference between foam and conventional wood crown molding, especially from cathedral-ceiling heights.

Instructions

Purchasing and Installing Foam Crown Molding

1. Measure the area of the room. Note how high the ceilings are. This will assist you in choosing your molding. Generally, the larger the room and the higher the ceiling, the wider the molding will be. For standard eight-foot by 12-foot room, for example, you will require 96 feet of molding (add in 10 percent for a margin of error). Count and measure each corner using an angle finder. (An angle finder looks like two intersecting rulers with a nut in the center that can be adjusted to the correct angle and tightened down so that you can take down the measurements. You can take inside measurements as well as outside measurements with this tool.) Note the measurements for all corners.

2. Locate and purchase the correct amount of foam molding from a company that will miter the corners for you according to your measurements. If you are purchasing from a home-improvement center, see if they will cut the corners for you.

3. Paint your molding. Follow the molding manufacturer's instructions to ensure you purchase the right paint for your substrate. Usually water-base primer and water-base paint are recommended. Spray painting may provide the best look, especially for more ornate designs.

4. Glue the corner moldings to each end of the first wall. Measure the space between the corners. Next, cut the main length of molding. Fit the main length between the two corners before gluing. When you're satisfied with the fit, glue per the manufacturer's instructions (usually this is with a hot glue gun, applying a snake-shaped line of glue to the back of the molding).

5. Continue around the room, adding corners first and then the center pieces.

Tags: angle finder, between corners, Cathedral Ceilings, crown molding, main length

What Size Radiant Ceiling Panel Do I Need

Most radiant ceiling panels look just like any other ceiling panel.

Radiant heating systems work like the sun, radiating heat that warms objects it comes in direct contact with. Various type of radiant heating systems exist, including radiant ceiling panels. Radiant ceiling panels distribute heat to all the objects in a room in the same way ceiling lights distribute light to all spaces within a room. Determining the size of a radiant panel needed for your job comes down to a handful of considerations, such as surface area and panel system.

Panel Sizes

You can purchase radiant ceiling panels in almost any size. While companies produce generic panels in standard sizes like 2 feet by 2 feet or 2 feet by 4 feet, you can purchase customized panels in any size you desire. This provides you with myriad options when it comes to choosing a size for your radiant ceiling panels. Consulting an installation expert before ordering your panels can help ensure that what you order fits your needs and space.

Surface Area

Surface area constitutes a major factor in determining the radiant ceiling panel size for your job. You must choose panels that fit properly into the surface area of your ceiling. For instance, assume your ceiling measures 18 feet by 18 feet. You should avoid using 2-by-4-foot panels with this ceiling because four cannot divide evenly into 18. If ordering customized panels, avoid purchasing one huge panel measuring 18 feet by 18 feet, as its weight may cause it to collapse. To figure out how best to fit ceiling panels into your surface area, create a to-scale drawing.

Heating Elements

Some, if not all, radiant ceiling panels connect directly to heating elements. When purchasing ceiling panels, ensure that each panel that connects directly to a heating element is large enough to work properly with that unit. For instance, avoid purchasing a 2-by-2-foot panel for a 3-foot-long heating element. Try purchasing panels with built-in heating elements, or those from companies that manufacture and install panels and heating elements simultaneously, to avoid a problem with this.

Panel Interconnectivity

Some radiant ceiling panel systems combine radiant panels with convection panels in a patchwork pattern. Convection panels absorb heat from radiant panels and distribute it by warming air molecules that come into contact with the panels. When purchasing radiant ceiling panels, make sure that they can connect with convection panels without a problem. Furthermore, make sure that your convection and radiant panels can cover the surface area of your ceiling together. This may require creating a drawing.

Other Considerations

Various other factors affect the size of ceiling panels you use. If you install radiant ceiling panels as a replacement for other types of ceiling panels, simply purchase new panels of the same dimensions as the old ones. If your ceiling contains inlaid lights, purchase panels in similar sizes as the lighting fixtures to make sure all ceiling elements fit together properly. In some settings, such as office buildings, structural weight distribution requirements limit the size of panels you can use.

Installation

Ultimately, you only need to decide upon which size radiant ceiling panels you need if you plan on doing installation for panels yourself. This requires taking down an existing ceiling and installing radiant panels in its place. If you do this, you can use your actual ceiling as a life-sized model, and divide it into evenly sized sections - order panels based on the size of these sections. If you plan on letting a professional handle installation, leave everything in the hands of this professional, including sizing and purchasing panels. This may up the cost of a project but also usually results in a better product.

Tags: ceiling panels, feet feet, radiant ceiling, radiant ceiling panels, radiant panels, your ceiling, ceiling panel

Plaster A Ceiling

Plaster ceilings can transform the look of a room. Plaster can be applied to raw drywall as the finish coat, or it can be applied to a previously-painted ceiling for a custom effect. The beauty of a plaster ceiling is that it can hide a multitude of defects, does not require any previous experience and can be completed in a day. Although applying plaster can be a sloppy endeavor, the messes are easily cleaned with soap and water.

Instructions

1. Cover the floor, wall-to-wall, with the drop cloth. Cover any furniture in the room.

2. Check that the ceiling is smooth, and remove anything hanging from the ceiling.

3. If the ceiling had been previously painted with a gloss paint, go over it with the sandpaper to roughen it slightly. Wipe it down afterwards with a damp rag.

4. Tape off the walls at the point where they meet the ceiling. The top of the tape should end at the top of the wall. This will keep plaster off your walls, and speed up cleaning time.

5. Put on the goggles. Prepare the pre-mixed plaster according to the manufacturer's directions. Most pre-mixed plasters need to be stirred before using to mix any ingredients that had separated during storage.

6. Using the putty knife, transfer some of the pre-mixed plaster onto the hand-held hawk. A hawk is a square piece of metal with a handle on the bottom. This will make it easier to handle the plaster while on the ladder.

7. Starting at a corner of the room, scoop up some of the plaster with the drywall trowel. Apply to the ceiling, pushing it on with the drywall trowel. Cover only about a 3x3-foot area, but leave the edges random. You don't want your start-stop areas to be noticeable. Apply a fairly even coat of about 1/4 inch. Scoop up more plaster, and apply it over the fresh plaster, working it into a pattern or design. It is easiest to use a random pattern. The thicker you apply the plaster, the longer it will take for it to set. That gives you a little more time to go back and work your design. Refill your hawk with more plaster as needed.

8. Continue in sections until the ceiling is done. Using fresh plaster, go back over any areas that look uneven. Let the plaster dry for a couple of hours before removing the tape.

Tags: drywall trowel, fresh plaster, more plaster, pre-mixed plaster, This will

Build Steps For A Cat

Your cat may enjoy your stairs, but its own will take it where you can't.

Cats love to be higher than their people and especially to be higher than other cats. Outside, their climbing prowess will take them to prey and positions that amaze observers. Inside cats love to jump and climb too, and may alarm you by looking down from the window at the peak of your cathedral ceiling. As they grow older, however, climbing even to lesser heights may be more difficult because of arthritis, obesity and changes in their senses. You can come to their aid by building steps, but be prepared to adjust when you see how the cats respond to your work.

Instructions

Utilitarian Steps

1. Cut two planks to the height of your bed or other area where your cat is allowed but has difficulty reaching because of age or disability. Set them perpendicular to each other and fasten the ends together in an "L" shape.

2. Cut a plank to complete a right triangle from one end of the "L" to the other. Cut four small lengths of lath. Lay the "L" down on one side. Fit the third plank between the ends. At each of the two corners formed by the third plank and one end of the "L," drive screws through a piece of lath into the sides of the planks to connect them. Turn over the triangle of wood and repeat the process on both ends of the third plank.

3. Divide the height of the upright plank into a multiple of approximately 6 inches. Cut twice that number of steps. Fasten them together at right angles, as risers and treads. Set the steps on the angular piece and screw the top step to the upright plank. Fasten the bottom riser to the horizontal plank, or use pieces of lath to fasten it to the diagonal.

4. Cut one plank 2 feet long and another piece 1 foot long. Center the long one under the upper end of the steps and the shorter one under the lower end and screw them in place to keep the steps from tipping over. Paint the steps and, for kitty's comfort, glue carpet to the horizontal steps.

Play Steps

5. Cut 6-inch-deep treads and risers to cover the horizontal and vertical distances you have in mind.

6. Cut triangular trusses from 1-by-2 lumber - 3 pieces, each 6 inches long, one cut at a 45-degree angle on both ends - for each point where you plan to fasten the steps to a wall.

7. Cut an 8-inch-square landing for every point at which the steps will make a right-angle turn. Cut a double landing - 16 by 8 inches - or 2 squares and a riser, for each point where the steps will make a U-turn. Cut platforms where cats can rest at the high point and other points with good views.

8. Cut a plank to run as a diagonal under any unsupported run of steps more than 2 ft long. Cut dowels as posts under long runs or unsupported landings and turns.

9. Assemble and install the stairs according to plan, using wood screws. Paint as desired and glue down some carpet at least at strategic points such as platforms and landings.

Tags: third plank, both ends, each point, each point where, ends each, higher than, point where

An Electrical Outlet From An Existing Light Switch

Add an outlet from an existing light switch power supply.

You can add a new electrical outlet by tapping into an existing light switch's electrical supply. You can install the new outlet anywhere along the wall you choose, providing you can pull the wire from the existing switch. Because of your wall stud locations, you might prefer to add the electrical outlet directly beneath the existing light switch. Adding the outlet at this location can make pulling the wire more convenient, eliminating the need to go through a wall stud or up into the attic with your wire and back down the wall.

Instructions

1. Turn off the breaker at the main circuit panel to disconnect the electricity from the existing light switch.

2. Remove the cover from the existing light switch, exposing the wiring and the electrical switch box. Set a multimeter dial on the 250 alternating current (AC) setting. Touch one probe to one black wire on the side of the light switch and the other probe to any metal on the switch or electrical switch box. The needle on the multimeter should remain at zero if you have properly disconnected the electricity. Repeat this test for the remaining black wire on the side of the switch.

3. Take out the screws holding the existing light switch into the electrical box and gently pull the switch from the box. Loosen the screws on the side of the switch holding the black wires. Remove the black wire from beneath the two screws and set the light switch aside.

4. Unscrew the wire connectors holding the two white wires and the two bare copper wires inside the existing electrical switch box. Pull apart the two sets of wires.

5. Mark the location of your new outlet below your existing light switch at a location that is convenient for you. Trace around the template that was provided with the remodel outlet box. Carefully cut along the trace line with the drywall saw to remove the wall board from the outlet location.

6. Pull a length of 12/2 nonmetallic (NM) electrical cable from the existing electrical switch box to the new outlet location. Push the electrical cable through a knockout at the back of the remodel outlet box. Push the box into the opening cut in the wall board and twist the screws at the top and the bottom of the box clockwise to clamp the outlet box securely to the wall board.

7. Strip the outer insulation from the 12/2 NM cable with a dual NM wire cutter/stripper to expose the black, white and bare copper wires at both the existing light switch location and the new outlet location. Remove at least 3/4-inch of insulation from both the black and white wires.

8. Wrap the black wire around the copper screw on the right side of the outlet and the white wire around the silver screw on the left side of the outlet. Wrap the bare copper wire around the green ground screw located towards the bottom of the outlet. Tighten all three screws and gently push the outlet and the wires into the remodel outlet box.

9. Attach the outlet to the top and the bottom of the remodel box using the screws provided with the outlet. Cover the outlet, wiring and electrical box with an outlet cover plate.

10. Twist a red wire connector onto the two original white wires inside the existing electrical switch box along with the white wire from the new outlet, connecting all three white wires together. Repeat this connection for the two original bare copper wires inside the electrical switch box along with the bare copper wire from the outlet.

11. Cut a 6-inch piece of 12-gauge thermoplastic high heat nylon solid black wire and strip 3/4-inch of insulation off both ends, creating a 6-inch black pigtail. Twist a red wire connector onto the black wire from the outlet, the black power supply wire that runs back to the breaker and the black pigtail wire, connecting all three together.

12. Wrap the black pigtail wire around one of the screws on the right side of the existing light switch you set aside earlier. Wrap the remaining black wire around the remaining screw on the right side of the light switch. Gently push the two sets of both black and bare copper wires into the back of the electrical switch box and reconnect the switch to the top and the bottom of the box. Replace the switch cover onto the light switch, covering the electrical switch box and the wiring.

13. Turn on the breaker at the main circuit panel to connect the electricity to the existing light switch and the new outlet.

Tags: light switch, electrical switch, black wire, bare copper, existing light switch, existing light

Mount An Adapter For Hunter Ceiling Fans

Use an adapter in your ceiling fan if you want it to sit lower than the suspension balls allow. This is generally required in rooms with sloped ceilings to prevent the fan blades from hitting the ceiling. Hunter calls the adapter piece a pipe. It gets inserted right before the hanger bracket. The pipe is then secured to the Hunter fan assembly and holds the entire ceiling fan in place.

Instructions

1. Turn off power to the room in which you will installing the Hunter ceiling fan. Locate the electrical box in the ceiling and the wires which will supply power to the ceiling fan. Check the wires with a circuit tester to ensure that no power is being supplied to them.

2. Drill 9/64-inch pilot holes through the electrical box's top and into the wooden support structure above it. Push three of the supplied isolator's tabs into the three small holes around the ceiling plate's edge. Place the ceiling plate over the electrical box, thread the wires through the center hole, and line up the screw holes with the pilot holes you made.

3. Slide a washer onto a 3-inch wood screw. Drive the screw through one of the ceiling plate's screw holes and into the corresponding pilot hole. Repeat with the second screw hole and pilot hole.

4. Insert the adapter, or pipe, through the hanger bracket and the canopy. Lift the three parts up to the ceiling plate and insert the wires through the adapter and out of the canopy.

5. Clip the supplied isolators onto the hanger bracket's edges. Some Hunter ceiling fan models come with these isolators already installed. Lift the bracket up to the ceiling plate. Twist the bracket clockwise to lock it into place.

6. Lift the fan assembly up to the adapter. Insert the wires and the adapter into the fan assembly. Screw the fan assembly to the adapter. Use the supplied Allen wrench to tighten the setscrew on the fan assembly.

7. Connect each of the fan's wires with like-colored wires coming from the ceiling. Twist a wire nut over each electrical connection.

8. Lift the canopy up to cover the ceiling plate and hanger bracket. Line up the canopy's screw holes with the ceiling plate's screw holes. Secure it in place with the supplied screws.

Tags: ceiling plate, hanger bracket, screw holes, assembly adapter, ceiling plate screw, holes with

Troubleshoot A Ceiling Fan That Is Not Working

A ceiling fan that is not working properly will not perform its cooling function effectively. Failure to address the problem could lead to the fan breaking down, even though what's wrong may have started as a minor issue. You can troubleshoot a ceiling fan problem to determine the cause, and possibly fix it along the way. A few household tools will be needed, but no special equipment is required.

Instructions

1. Spray the sides of the "Speed" selector switch or knob on the ceiling fan's base with electrical contact spray. Spray lubricant contact spray into the hole for the the hanging cord connected to the fan's base.

2. Place a spirit level on one of the blades to check whether it is level and balanced with the ceiling fan's base. Loosen the screws at the end of the blade with a Phillips screwdriver and readjust the blade until the spirit level bubble is between the two lines on the scale. Tighten the screws at the end of the blade. Repeat this procedure with the other two blades.

3. Tighten all of the external screws on the ceiling fan's base and blades with a Phillips screwdriver. This will eliminate any stray noise being made by loose screws causing the blades to wobble.

4. Turn off the power to the ceiling fan. This could be a matter of turning a wall switch to the "Off" position or turning off a circuit breaker in a fuse box. Remove the screws from the ceiling fan's ceiling plate with the Phillips screwdriver. Inspect the wires inside the plate to be sure that they are making a good connection with the junction box contacts inside the ceiling. Unscrew the screws on the junction box that are holding the wires connected to the ceiling fan. Spray the contacts on the junction box with electrical cleaner spray. Reattach the wires, and screw them in. Place the ceiling plate back on the ceiling, and reattach the screws. Restore power to the ceiling fan's circuit.

Tags: ceiling base, Phillips screwdriver, with Phillips, with Phillips screwdriver, ceiling plate, contact spray

Ceiling Paint Treatments

Even as many people recognize that paint can be add interest and color to a room, they often leave their ceilings plain white. Using paint treatments in different colors and textures can turn an unnoticeable ceiling into the focal point of the room. A few types of paint treatments that can spice up a ceiling are spray texture, metallic paints, and faux finishing.

Spray Texture

Spray texture is a paintlike coating that can be used as a paint treatment for ceilings. This product comes dry, so you have to mix the correct amount of water with it; add too much water or not enough, and it will not come out right. It is important to prime your ceiling to seal the surface before you apply the spray texture. Prime around any ceiling heating vents with oil-based primer. Because texture paint dries very quickly, it could crack if a primer isn't used. Spray texture can be applied using either a sprayer or a roller.

Metallic Paints

Metallic paints contain metallic pigment and are a popular paint treatment for ceilings. Some metallic paints come with patina solutions, which contain real metal particles to give ceilings an aged look. Use a nontarnishing metallic paint if you don't like the patina look. You can also use metallic paints as a base coat for other treatments, such as faux finishes. Metallic paints come a wide range of colors, including gold, camel, green apple, burnt orange, nickel, and black pearl. You can use a brush, roller, or sprayer to apply metallic paints to your ceiling. Metallic paints are usually water-soluble acrylics, which make them easy to clean up.

Faux Finishing

Faux finishing is a paint treatment, or technique, that can be used to create the look of texture on your ceiling. Use one paint color for the base. After the base coat is completely dry, add one or several coats of glaze in matching or contrasting colors. The type of faux finish you choose should complement the room's décor. Before you begin any treatment, make sure your ceiling is clean and any damaged areas have been repaired. Use high-quality paints and glazes to ensure the best results.

Tags: your ceiling, paint treatment, base coat, metallic paints, paint treatment ceilings

Make A Chinese Fan For Children

Fans keep you cool in warm weather and crowded auditoriums. You can help children create their own Chinese fan that they can carry around with them for those times they get hot. They can decorate the fan with their own design. Help them make Chinese fans to give as gifts to family and friends.

Instructions

1. Decorate one side of the sheet of printer paper with crayons. Draw several smaller pictures or decorate the paper with one large scene.

2. Make a series of back and forth folds every 3/4 of an inch along the length of the paper.

3. Press the accordion-folded paper together and wrap tape around the bottom inch of the paper.

4. Use craft glue to attach jumbo craft sticks to the last fold on each end of the fan. Position the end of the jumbo craft stick just above the tape.

Tags: jumbo craft, paper with

Energy Saving Tips For Ceiling Fans

Always remember to turn off your ceiling fan when you leave the room.

Many homeowners have ceiling fans in their home to help circulate air and cool off rooms. While a ceiling fan can be extremely effective for this purpose, it can also use up quite a bit of energy if you are not careful. Fortunately, you can cut back on the energy consumed by your ceiling fan if you keep a few basic tips in mind when installing and operating it.

Ensure That the Fan is Properly Installed

One of the simplest ways to save energy with a ceiling fan is to ensure that it is properly installed. A poorly installed fan may utilize more energy because it must run at higher speeds to effectively circulate air throughout the room. Ideally, a ceiling fan should be installed in the center of a room to ensure more efficient air circulation. For stability, it should also be secured to a ceiling joist. If a joist is not located in the center of the room, use a ceiling fan mounting bracket to help support the fan's weight. Test the fan to see if it wobbles. If the fan is wobbly, hold a yardstick vertically along the blades' edges to see if they are aligned properly. In many cases, you can simply bend a misaligned blade back into place. If the issue cannot be resolved, contact the fan's manufacturer for assistance.

Connect It Properly

To be energy-efficient, a ceiling fan must utilize a proper electrical connection. Connect your fan to an outlet box that is specifically designed for ceiling fans. These boxes contain all of the necessary wires for a proper connection and serve as the point at which the fan connects to the ceiling. When replacing a standard lighting fixture with a fan, you will probably need to replace the outlet box with one that fits your fan.

Remember to Turn It Off

One of the easiest ways to save energy with a ceiling fan is to turn the fan off when no one is in the room. Ceiling fans are designed to cool people, not rooms, so there is no reason to waste energy by cooling an unoccupied room.

Use It Year-Round

Most homeowners only think to use their ceiling fans in the summer months when the weather is warm, but using them year-round can actually help reduce energy consumption. In the summer, a ceiling fan should operate in a counterclockwise direction so individuals standing directly beneath feel a breeze. During the winter months, however, reverse your ceiling fan's motor so it moves in a clockwise direction, and run it at a lower speed. An updraft is created that pulls warm air near the ceiling down to the lower portion of the room to warm its occupants. As a result, you can lower your thermostat and use less energy to heat your home.

Tags: your ceiling, ceiling fans, ceiling should, center room, energy with, energy with ceiling

Install Ceiling Tiles To Joists

Installing ceiling tiles is simple if you have a straight, flat ceiling surface. Some ceilings have surfaces that are a bit more complex than that, though, such as ceilings that have exposed joists. To install ceiling tiles to a ceiling that has exposed joists, you will first have to create a surface to which you can affix the tiles. The simplest way to create a surface that can accommodate ceiling tiles is to add furring strips to the joists.

Instructions

1. Determine the size of your border tiles. Measure the ceiling in both directions. If your ceiling is an even number of feet, you will be able to leave all of your tiles whole, since ceiling tiles generally have at least one side that measures 1 foot. However, if your ceiling is not an even number of feet, you will need to cut the tiles that will go around the border down to size. If the ceiling is 10 feet 6 inches in both directions, you will need to cut your border tiles down to cover that extra 6 inches in both directions. For proper tile installation, you should have even borders on both sides, which means that 6 inches will be divided into 3 inches on each side of the room. A 3-inch tile is a little bit small for a border though, so to make your border bigger, subtract one tile or 12 inches from the rest of the room and add it to your borders. Divide those 12 inches in half and you will have two 9-inch border tiles on each side.

2. Cut furring strips the length of the room. The joists will run across the room in one direction. The furring strips will run across the room at right angles to the joists. You will end up with a checkerboard pattern.

3. Place your first furring strip flush against one wall. Your second furring strip should be placed the same distance as the width of your border strip. So, if your border strips is 9 inches, your second strip will be placed 9 inches from the first strip. Attach furring strips to the joists with one nail at each joist.

4. Cut a block of wood to 12 inches. Use this block as your guide for attaching the remaining furring strips to the joists. Line each furring strip up parallel to the one beside it by placing your 12-inch block of wood between them in the center of the room. Nail the furring strip to the center joist. Move to one end of the room and line the end of the furring strip up with the block and nail into place. The rest of the furring strip should be even. Finish nailing the strip to the joists. Continue across the room this way and nail a final furring strip flush against the opposite wall.

5. Trim down the border tiles. You will need enough 9-inch tiles to cover two adjacent sides of the room. Your corner tiles should be 9 by 9 inches to account for both sides. Tiles can be cut with a sharp utility knife on a flat surface.

6. Install ceiling tiles as usual. Use ceiling tile adhesive on all corners, plus a dot in the middle of the sides that will touch the furring strips. Place the corner tile first according to the instructions that comes with your tiles. Some tiles require a staple or two as well as the adhesive. The tiles will be attached directly to the furring strips. Once the corner tile is in, place the border tiles on two adjacent walls. Fill in the center of the ceiling with full-size tiles. When you reach the other two sides of the room, measure the opposite two walls to make sure the measurements haven't changed. Cut the tiles down to size and fill in the border on the last two walls to complete the room.

Tags: furring strip, furring strips, border tiles, ceiling tiles, your border, across room