JBL Platinum speakers were a line of stock speakers designed by JBL for Compaq computers and later for HP computers. The part of a package deal with a desktop computer and were not readily available for purchase separately. As such, finding a pair of these stock speakers can be a challenge, but there are multiple options available to search for the speakers.
Instructions
1. Contact HP or Compaq customer support to attempt to obtain replacement speakers if your computer system came with JBL Platinum speakers and is still under warranty. Contact information is available in the Resources section of this article.
2. Visit a used electronics store or a computer repair shop. Ask the staff if any of the Platinum speakers are available for purchase.
3. Browse online for sellers selling used computer parts and speakers. Websites such as Amazon, Craigslist, and eBay allow users to sell a wide range of items on their own. Search for "JBL Platinum Speakers," "HP Platinum speakers," or "Compaq Platinum speakers" in the search box of these websites.
Salvaging an electric motor with a belt pulley from old or broken equipment is an ideal way to recycle or re-purpose a useful item, such as a fan or a bench grinder. A belt drive pulley allows an electric motor to be used without needing to adapt or purchase a drive system.
Belt-Driven Ceiling Fan
A belt-driven ceiling fan uses an electric motor with a pulley to drive one or more ceiling fans. Drive belts are strung along the ceiling to each fan in turn, making for an attractive antique-style system.
Bench Grinder
Many older bench grinders were belt-driven assemblies, and parts for them can still be found at estate sales or auctions. An electric motor with a pulley is perfect for powering such a . Care must be taken to cover the belt drive assembly, as this area can cause serious harm to the operator if loose clothing or hands are caught in the belt.
Generator
Electric motors are designed to turn electricity into rotary motion, but they also work in reverse. Spinning an electric motor's output pulley will cause electricity to be generated at the connection terminals. Combining a small gasoline engine with an output pulley (many riding lawn mower engines use belt pulleys) with a pulley-equipped electric motor and an appropriate voltage regulator will create a small generator capable of charging batteries or powering small electrical equipment.
Tags: , electric motor with, motor with, belt drive, bench grinder, Electric Motors
Texturing the walls and ceilings is one way to add depth and interest to a room while hiding ridges and other problems. The easiest way to texture a wall or ceiling is to apply textured paint, which is just like regular paint, but with sand or other solids added. You can simply roll on the paint and leave it at that, or you can add to the texture by working it with a trowel. If you choose to work the paint, practice your technique on a test area before you start.
Instructions
1. Take all of the furniture out of the room. Scrape any old paint off of the wall or ceiling as needed. Sponge the area down with household cleanser. Let it dry for 24 hours.
2. Cover the area with primer, using a paint roller. Allow a full 24 hours for the primer to dry.
3. Roll textured paint thickly over four to six square feet of the area (or as wide a portion as you can reach from one place). Apply as much of the textured paint as you can get to stay on the surface.
4. Work the paint with your trowel to the style you want. Options include pressing the trowel flat into the paint and pulling it out so it creates peaks, or swirling the paint by twisting the trowel. Depending on your preference, you can skip this step and let the texture of the paint shine through.
5. Repeat the process for each section of the wall or ceiling. Stop and view the area from a distance after the application of to ensure the application's consistency.
6. Let the dry for one to two days before moving the furniture back into the room.
Tags: textured paint, wall ceiling, each section, paint with
Converting a room into a bedroom begins with adding a closet. If there is enough floor space in the room, a closet can be added along one wall. Mirrors can be made into closet doors to visually enlarge the room, and the doors will hide the closet from view while providing access to the storage area. Mirrored closet doors can be ordered in custom sizes from many door vendors. If the mirrored door runs from floor to ceiling, there is no need to do any additional construction.
Instructions
1. Locate a wall in the room that has no windows or doorways. In the illustration, there are two walls without a doorway or window.
2. Measure 32 inches from the wall into the room. There should be no window or doorway within this 32 inches on either adjacent wall. Notice in the illustration that the right wall will not work for the closet space, as the 32 inches will extend into the doorway on the adjacent wall.
3. Measure the closet diameter and the floor to ceiling height. It should be a minimum of 32 inches deep and extend the width of the room. Compare prices at door vendors that make mirrored doors, and calculate how many mirrored door panels you will need to enclose the area. Mirrored doors can be purchased in varying widths. Choosing three 4-foot doors to cover a 12-foot area, as opposed to four 3-foot doors to cover the same area, will probably cost less money. Consult with the door manufacturer the appropriate size doors to order to cover the area, taking into consideration the tracks that will be needed for installation. Measurements may vary by manufacturer.
4. Order a length of floor track and ceiling track the width of the room. Install the floor track, which will be on the red line as shown in the illustration with Step 3. This will require a screwdriver. The floor track will be screwed into the floor, and it should be parallel to the back wall of the closet, 32 inches from the wall (more if you are building a deeper closet).
5. Measure out 32 inches (or your closet depth) from the back closet wall into the room on the ceiling. Install the ceiling track by screwing the track into the ceiling. Set a door panel into the bottom track and adjust the position of the top track before securing. After the floor and ceiling tracks are installed, set the doors into the tracks. The doors can be temporarily removed when adding a clothes rod or closet shelving unit.
Although foreclosure conjures up the idea of a home selling for a fraction of its value, foreclosure homes rarely sell. If you want to purchase a foreclosure home at the lowest possible cost, you must meet the "upset price" on the home. You can obtain a good deal on a foreclosure home, but you need to do research on the property beforehand.
Upset Price Definition
The upset price for a foreclosure sale is the absolute minimum the seller will accept. The officer conducting the foreclosure receives instructions not to sell the property for anything less than the minimum or reserve price. A foreclosure sale usually occurs in a courthouse or on the courthouse's steps in the county of the location of the property. As a potential buyer, you usually yell out your bid or use hand signals to indicate a bid.
Features
In general, the mortgage provider sets the upset price at a value that covers the mortgage and any associated fees, such as interest and legal expenses. If the foreclosure sale occurs because of a nonjudicial foreclosure, when the creditor does not need to go through the courts to force foreclosure, a court judge sets the upset price. Because most foreclosure sales are judicial, the upset price is so high that you rarely receive a significant discount on the property.
Significance
Since the housing bubble burst in 2007, the number of foreclosure sales have risen so much that banks are more likely to take offers below the upset price, according to Aleksandra Todorova of SmartMoney. Banks are more likely to perform appraisals than before the crash and look at the potential housing market in an area. If the bank thinks the market in a certain community is about to fall, it might sell the property at a small loss to prevent a greater loss.
Considerations
Finding a good deal on a property requires adequate preparation. You may not want to purchase a property at the upset price if it exceeds the market value of the property. Call your county clerk and ask for the time and location of mortgage foreclosure sales and a list of properties. Examine the property beforehand to see if it needs repairs. You might also talk to other people in the neighborhood to get an idea of the value of the property. Set a price ceiling for yourself so that you do not overspend for the property. According to RealtyTrac, 20 percent off the property's full market value is a good ceiling.
Tags: upset price, foreclosure sale, foreclosure sales, foreclosure home, good deal,
Vaulted or cathedral ceilings can be a challenge to insulate. The lack of air space between the finished ceiling and the roof's decking material is only a matter of inches. There must be room between the insulation, and the roof decking for air to flow from the eaves of the lower roof-line up to the peak or ridge. Without this airflow, heat will conduct from the exterior roof's surface and into the interior rooms of the vaulted ceiling areas.
Non-Interrupted Airflow
All homes, regardless of the construction, must have some form of uninterrupted airflow to exhaust hot air caused by the sun shining on roofs. Typically air vents are spaced along the underside of the roof's eaves. These vents allow air to enter into the rafter and attic space. Inside the attic or at the top of the roof's peak is a continuous vent called the ridge vent. This vent exhausts air from inside the confined space. Without a continuous airflow temperatures can reach in excess of 150 degrees F. This heat will eventually migrate into the lower rooms.
Deep Rafters
The roof of a vaulted or cathedral ceiling is typically made from rafters that are 10 inches to 12 inches deep. This depth allows thick insulation to be placed between the roof's supports and still allow for air to flow from the lower portion of the roof to the upper ridge area. Shallow roof framing, 2 by 6's and 2 by 8's, may not allow for any space once the thick insulation is installed. In these cases an air way or duct must be installed so the insulation does not block air from flowing up towards the ridge vent.
Roof Duct Material or Baffles
There are a number of methods for installing a roof duct system or continuous baffles between the rafters to . The most basic method is to install tar roofing paper between the rafters. The paper is cut wider than the distance between the rafters and then stapled to the framing members in such a way as to create an air channel. The insulation is then pushed up to the backside of the tar-paper. A gap of one to two inches is left between the paper and the bottom of the roof's decking material. A plastic insert is also available commercially that will serve the same function. The insert is secured between the roof's framing rafters by staples. The plastic baffle is held down from the roof's decking a predetermined distance to create airflow. Since the plastic insert is pre-made, installation is typically very fast. Various types of inserts are available depending upon the style and type of roof it is venting.
Insulation
Once the baffle system is in place, the insulation can then be installed. Generally a fiberglass batting with a foil or paper backing is stapled on to the rafters. The thickness of the insulation will range between an R-19 and an R-49. Various parts of the country will require different R-values of insulation. The R-value of insulation relates to how well the material resists the transference of heat and cold. Consult local building regulations for the insulation requirements of your area. Un-faced fiberglass batts are not typically installed inside the vaulted ceiling. The bare fiberglass batts can be difficult to secure in place due to the slope of the overhead ceiling.
Tags: roof decking, between rafters, between roof, create airflow, decking material
Insulation fitters may work in both residentail and commercial buildings.
Insulation plays a vital role in reducing the cost of electricity in buildings and requires workers to fit insulation material on the walls, floors, ceilings and in the piping of the building itself. Jobs for insulation fitters may be found in a variety of industries, many of which offer opportunities for advancement.
Floors, Ceilings and Walls
Insulation fitters may find jobs applying insulation in attics, basements and in the exterior walls of homes and buildings. This job typically requires using a hose to spray foam insulation onto flat surfaces, followed by installing drywall or applying a coat of plaster. When these fitters work on adding new insulation to old buildings, they must first remove the old insulation, which may include dealing with asbestos and requires safety training. The average salary of this type of insulation fitter was $36,120 as of May 2010, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS).
Mechanical
Mechanical insulation fitters deal with pipes, ductwork and other mechanical systems, applying insulation as a means of controlling temperature. This job involves measure and cutting insulation material to fit the pipes, then using adhesive, tape or bands to secure the material. The BLS reports that these insulation fitters earned an average salary of $42,620 as of 2010.
Qualifications
The minimum requirement for is a high school diploma, and courses in shop mathematics, woodworking and construction are particularly useful. Most insulation fitters are trained on the job, which the BLS reports can take up to four years. Those working on insulation in commercial buildings typically require less training than those working on residential buildings. Fitters interested in advancing may pursue voluntary certification from organizations such as the National Insulation Association. Depending upon his employer, an insulation fitter may advance into a supervisor position or move on to become an insulation contract estimator.
Outlook
The BLS predicts an employment rate increase of 17 percent between 2008 and 2018 in jobs for insulation fitters, a rate which is faster than the average for all jobs in the U.S. Because insulation fitters work mainly in construction industries, they may experience periods of unemployment in between projects. Those working in industrial plant maintenance have the most stable jobs of their profession due to the fact that repair and maintenance in these facilities are ongoing.
Tags: insulation fitters, fitters work, applying insulation, average salary, , insulation fitter, insulation material
The pricing strategy analysis is crucial to the business plan and equally to daily business operations: it outlines a very important part of how you do business. The perfection of this analysis goes far in determining the success of a business. Properly establishing your price with thorough consideration of cost and competitors can mean the difference between success and failure for your business. If your prices are too low, you will be setting yourself back from startup. Below is the process for writing a pricing strategy analysis.
Instructions
Preliminary Pricing Analysis
1. Determine all the costs involved in providing your customer with your product or service. This means evaluating direct costs, the supplies that you need immediately to complete your work as well as indirect overhead costs, which include your administrative duties as well as general supplies. Refer to your inventory and/or cost of goods sold projection or budget.
2. Research the prices of your competitors. Your competitive market analysis should have uncovered no less than three main competitors in your industry. Gather a clear picture of their prices.
3. Review your marketing strategy and decide if your competitive advantage includes a lower price than your competitors.'
4. Establish yourprice floor and price ceiling. Your price floor is the lowest price that you could offer above cost; your price ceiling, the highest the market can sustain.
5. Compromise with low prices and high profits. Find a way to meet or beat the competitors' price if it is part of your marketing strategy.
Completing the Pricing Strategy Analysis
6. Examine and explain the advantages and disadvantages of per project, per hour and per retainer pricing structures for your business.
7. Write the pricing strategy analysis in a few sentences that explain the basis of your decisions and your contingency plans in case of market changes.
8. Establish why your pricing strategy will be successful. Also explain how you will measure your success and improve your pricing strategy.
Drop ceilings are perfect if you want to hide plumbing and electrical wires in a basement, but they can also be used elsewhere as well to create a patterned, custom-built look without paying for a custom-built ceiling. Drop ceilings are also advantageous in that if you change the design of the room, you can change the look of the ceiling by just replacing the panels.
Illuminated Tiles
Illuminated ceiling panels, called light lens diffusers, have been used in offices for years to provide light to a room from an unseen fixture. Without the diffuser, fluorescent light would be too bright in some spots and too weak in others. With a little planning you can create a mix of solid and translucent tiles to personalize the look of your ceiling. You can even purchase translucent fiberglass ceiling tiles with designs on them, making the tiles look like stained glass. For a little extra money, you can purchase acrylic light lens diffusers that can be printed with high-resolution scenic photographs, or even your own pictures.
Wood Ceilings
You can use wooden tiles to give your space a more classic look. Choose the species of wood and the color of the stain to create a personalized look that works well with the space. The tiles come pre-finished and ready to install. The tiles also come with wood to cover the metal grid, including blocks for the intersections so that the wood can expand in changing environmental conditions. You can also get pre-mitered corner pieces to round out the look of the ceiling.
Mirror Panels
If you want to give your space an interesting look, you can replace your tiles with mirrored tiles. You can replace all of the tiles, or just a few to customize the look of the ceiling. Unlike mirrored wall panels, ceiling tiles are unlikely to be touched, so they only need an occasional dusting to clean. Mirrored panels can be made from glass, acrylic, polystyrene and Mylar. Some panels may require you to install your standard tiles above the mirrored tiles to provide rigidity, so check with the manufacturer of the mirrored tiles for installation instructions.
Hiding the Drop Ceiling Grid
If you like the idea of a drop ceiling, but hate the idea of staring up into a grid, you can purchase tiles that are manufactured to hide the metal framework. Some of these tiles hide the grid by giving the tile a thin three-dimensional design that incorporates the metal grid into the flow of the ceiling. Other tiles hide the grid by sitting up on the metal framework, making the face of the tiles flush with the metal.
Hand-Painted Tiles
Because drop-ceiling tiles are easy to remove and replace, you can paint the standard tiles yourself to give your ceiling a customized look. You can paint each panel with the same pattern to create a patterned look, or paint alternating panels in solid colors. If you have the skill, you can even paint a larger pattern across multiple tiles. Remember that you can also paint the grid structure to remove the look of a tiled ceiling system.
Tags: give your, look ceiling, mirrored tiles, ceiling tiles, create patterned, Drop Ceiling
Air conditioning vents allow air from the outside to enter a home. To keep out cold air during the winter months, cover the ceiling AC vents. There are a number of ways to do this that do not require extensive modifications to the vents, nor the need to call in a professional. Household supplies and supplies from a hardware store will be needed.
Instructions
Magnetic Cover
1. Remove the screws from the grille that is over the AC vent, using a Phillips screwdriver. Wipe off both sides of the grille with a paper towel.
2. Place the grille face down on a work surface. Measure its length and width with a tape measure.
3. Purchase a magnetic duct cover that matches the measurements as closely as possible. Cut the magnetic duct cover to match the measurements, using a straight edge and the blade of a utility knife.
4. Place the cut magnetic duct cover against the top of the grille. Press down on the sides of the cover to adhere it to the grille.
5. Place the grille back on the AC vent. Reattach the screws.
Enclosed Box
6. Purchase a plastic box that has the same width and length as that of the AC ceiling vent grille.
7. Remove the ceiling vent grille's screws, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the grille off. Wipe off the inside of the grille with a paper towel.
8. Place the plastic box on a work surface with the open end facing up. Apply a line of bonding glue to the top edges of the plastic box.
9. Line the grille up with the top of the box. Place the grille on the top of the box. Press and hold the grille against the top of the box for a minute so that the glue can take hold. Let the glue set for three hours before proceeding.
10. Place the plastic box, grille facing down, inside the AC vent. Reattach the screws to the grille.
Vinyl Sheeting
11. Measure the length and width of the ceiling vent with a tape measure. Purchase a sheet of vinyl flooring that is as close to the measurements as possible.
12. Place the vinyl flooring sheet on a work surface. Cut a section out, using a utility knife and straight edge, that matches the measurements.
13. Remove the screws from around the ceiling vent's grille, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the grille off. Wipe the grill off with a water-moistened paper towel.
14. Place the cut vinyl against the back of the grille. Tape the vinyl to the edges of the grill with strips of duct tape.
15. Place the grille back on the ceiling vent and reattach the screws.
Tags: ceiling vent, Place grille, ceiling vent grille, duct cover, grille with, magnetic duct
Adding an arch to any doorway adds elegance and charm to a home. Install an archway on your own to save a bundle of cash. Plan to spend at least two days installing the archway, more if you're an amateur. Purchase all of the supplies in advance to save both time and energy.
Instructions
1. Remove the casing from the doorway and the baseboards, with a pry bar and putty knife. Remove any nails that are left in the wall, and discard them.
2. Use a measuring tape to measure the width and height of the door opening. Measure the width of the wall. Jot all measurements down on a piece of paper to take to the hardware store when you purchase the arch kit.
3. Fit the arch on the opening to verify that it's the correct size. Mark the areas on the wall that have gaps, at the top of the arch.
4. Cut a 2 by 4 piece of wood to fill the length between the gaps at the corners of the door way. Install the pieces of wood with screws and a drill.
5. Cut four pieces of drywall to fit the size of the openings at the upper corners of the door way. Install one piece of drywall in each corner of the door way, front and back. Fill the gaps in the drywall with a joint compound. Fill all the nail holes and sand them.
6. Install one side of the archway. Have someone help you install the arch piece, followed by the second column. Make adjustments on the placement of the pieces by gently taping them into place.
7. Predrill holes for the nails. Use eightpenny nails to secure the archway in place. Fill the nail holes with putty. Sand, prime and paint the archway and the corners of the door way.
Tags: corners door, arch piece, Install, door Install, Fill nail, Fill nail holes
A beautiful knockdown ceiling accents your home interior and value.
It was common in the 1960s and 1970s to enter a home and find all the ceilings covered in rainbow-like swirls or bumpy popcorn texture. Modern ceiling textures tend to more sophisticated yet simpler designs such as knockdown texture -- commonly called skip trowel, Santa Fe or Spanish knockdown. Resembling perhaps a sponge's surface or a topographical map, knockdown covers slight surface imperfections and allows you to customize the look. Add colors, use thicker or thinner compound, change your stroke while applying the texture -- most any small variation achieves an individualistic effect. With a little patience and practice, you will get the feel for applying it.
Instructions
1. Repair any damaged areas of the ceiling, patching the drywall if needed or spreading drywall mud across blemishes, letting it dry and sanding it smooth. While knockdown covers minor imperfections, holes and deep damage will show through.
2. Remove as many of the room's furnishings as possible, including the ceiling fixtures. Spread plastic sheeting across the length of each wall and tape it in place at the top of the wall with duct tape. Cover the floor and remaining furniture with sheeting as well and attach it to the wall sheeting.
3. Apply at least one coat of primer -- preferably a stain-covering latex primer -- with a paint roller if the ceiling has never been painted. On previously painted ceilings, the old paint acts as the primer. Sand a painted ceiling lightly to scuff the finish, which helps the texture to adhere.
4. Pour two or three gallons of powdered all-purpose joint compound or texture in a five-gallon bucket. Add water, as specified in the product instructions, and mix. Alternatively, use premixed compound, thinning the mixture with water until it has about the consistency of a thick chocolate shake. Let the compound rest, like pancake batter, for a little while before applying to allow it to dissolve and blend better.
5. Dip a paint roller in the texture compound. Scoop some of the mixture up and spread as necessary across the roller to help distribute the texture. A thick layer of compound coating the roller is ideal.
6. Roll across a small section of the ceiling -- perhaps four feet square -- applying the texture in a layer about one-eighth-inch thick. Use up and down, sideways and diagonal strokes to create a thick, even coat with varied brush strokes. This variation helps create the irregular appearance when complete.
7. "Knock down" each ceiling section once it has dried to a tacky surface -- sticky but not nearly as wet as when applied. Drying time to this point will vary depending on the mixture applied and the environment. Estimate anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes from application to tacky.
8. Scrape across the ceiling texture lightly, using a trowel or special knockdown knife held at a slight angle. Aim to cut the top layer of texture off -- knocking down the peaks of the texture -- rather than smashing it all flat. Think of it like a cake where you must flatten and remove the tips of frosting that curl up above the cake without touching the deepest layer of cake frosting that rests on the cake.
9. Scrape excess texture off your knife or trowel back into the bucket of texture. Continue applying texture in small sections, waiting for it to dry and knocking it down until the entire ceiling is complete. Prepare more texture compound as necessary.
Recessed lighting is unobtrusive, but installation has its own complications.
The term "recessed lighting" describes any light fixture whose only visible features are its face and the illuminated portion of the fixture. This is different from pendant and standard lamps, where far more of the fixture is visible. Because the body and connection gear of recessed lighting is typically located in voids above ceilings, it is often sited close to the joists, the timber framing that holds the ceiling in place. Proximity of uninsulated heat-generating fixtures to flammable objects is always a cause for concern.
Components of Recessed Lights
The lamp housing, commonly referred to as the can, only gets hot when the bulb is in use. The small box on the top of the can, however, contains wiring and components; in most models this box generates its own heat. It is entirely possible to prevent the can walls from becoming hot simply by using a low-wattage incandescent bulb or a bulb designed to produce little heat, but most connection boxes will still become hot.
National Electric Code
The National is a publication that supplies standards for safe installation of electrical systems and appliances. The NEC is not a legally binding code but is often adopted by states and municipalities as a practical standard within their jurisdictions. Article 410 of the code deals with fixtures. Part XI addresses flush and recessed fixtures, and subsection 116 (a) (1) notes, "A fixture that is not identified as an IC fixture must be installed so that all recessed parts are not in contact with ." The code adds, "A 1/2-inch space must be maintained from any combustible material." In this context, "IC" means a type of fixture that dissipates air rapidly and therefore does not require that free air space surrounding it.
Minimum Clearances
Because all makes and models of recessed lighting have different properties and because the type and wattage of the bulb to be used is an unknown quantity, it is not possible to give a blanket value for how close a light can be to framing. Each light should be supplied with installation instructions from the manufacturer, and these should give exact values. That said, a fairly standard recessed light should not be fitted so that any part of its assembly is less than half an inch from anything flammable -- such as a timber joist -- at the sides. A two-inch clearance above the lamp is a typical minimum. Insulation, both loose-fill and batt, should be kept at least three inches away.
Further, municipal code may mandate minimum safe distances; the local code enforcement office should be consulted before installation.
A Further Consideration
There is an additional cause for caution where heating from recessed lighting is concerned. Most recessed lighting is made with hanger bars and a pigtail of heat-resistant wire; this wire is intended to be joined to the Romex supply in a junction box away from the lamp. Some lower-end models are sold without the hanger bar and pigtail, and it can be tempting to wire these directly to the Romex power supply. This practice is not advised. Romex thermoplastic-covered wire is not designed to be installed close to a heat source.
Tags: recessed lighting, combustible material, Electric Code, fixture that, from anything
Make your own canopy with items from a hobby store.
Canopy beds can be very costly, but they look romantic, elegant and beautiful. If you don't want to do permanent damage to your ceiling, and can't afford an actual canopy bed, create the look of a canopy without drilling any holes or spending too much cash. You don't even have to pick up a needle and thread to make a simple canopy for your bedroom.
Instructions
1. Pull a lightweight fabric, such as mosquito netting or tulle, through an embroidery hoop. The hoop unscrews, which will allow you to install the fabric inside the hoop, pull it evenly and screw the hoop back together. The fabric can be as long as you desire, depending on how you want the canopy to drape over the bed.
2. Secure a to the ceiling firmly, above the head of the bed. Make sure the hook is centered. The adhesive on the hook will have to bond to the ceiling, so give it an hour before you hang the canopy from the hook.
3. Tie two long ribbons or pieces of string to each side of the embroidery hoop. Tie the ends of the ribbons to the self-adhesive hook to hang the canopy. If the hold doesn't seem strong enough, apply some Sticky Tack to the adhesive part of the hook to give it some extra holding power.
Even beds that lay beneath a slanted ceiling can have a canopy.
Canopy beds can be made in two ways: The bed can have a special frame attached to it for fabric to be draped over, or the canopy can be created separately and hung over any bed. If you'd like to create a canopy bed under a slanted ceiling, having a canopy bed frame attached isn't an option because one of the ends wouldn't fit beneath the ceiling. However, you can position the bed according to your preference before attaching a hoop canopy over it to create the look you desire.
Instructions
1. Move your bed against the wall, beneath the . The head of the bed should be positioned under the part of the slant that is ascending.
2. Mark a spot on the ceiling, centered right above the head of the bed.
3. Install a screw-in wall hook in the ceiling, over the pencil-marked point, by twisting the sharp tip on the opposite end of the hook into the ceiling in a clockwise direction.
4. Hang a hoop canopy from the hook. The fabric will drape down over the bed and can be arranged to surround the entire bed.
A hoist storage system can be custom fitted to any type of bike.
Bicycle storage is a problem for many people, since floor space is often limited, and wall mounted systems may not free up enough space and can make it difficult to store and retrieve the bikes. Often a better solution is to create a simple system that hoists a bike up to the ceiling for storage, freeing up floor and wall space.
Instructions
1. Measure the distance between the handlebars and the seat of your bike; this determines the distance between the front and back pairs of hooks you will mount into into the ceiling.
2. Draw a straight line on the ceiling, centering the line over a ceiling joist (or plan to use heavy-duty hollow-wall anchors, like toggle bolts). Make marks for four pilot holes along the line, placing two holes at each end of your measured distance and keeping the holes 4" apart in each pair. Drill a pilot hole for a screw hook at each mark, then screw the four hooks into the ceiling, leaving about an inch between the ceiling and the openings on the hooks.
3. Determine where you will be standing while raising and lowering the bike, and attach pulleys to the three hooks closest to that position. Close all of the hooks with pliers and screw them the rest of the way into the ceiling.
4. Mount a cleat onto the wall at the position where you will raise/lower the bike. It helps to install the cleat at about a 30-degree angle, or so the top is pointing towards the closest hook in the ceiling. Screw the cleat directly into a stud, or use anchors.
5. Tie the rope securely to the empty hook (this should be the hook farthest from the wall cleat). Thread a loose pulley onto the loose end of the rope, then feed the rope through the attached pulley closest to the empty hook. Feed the rope through the next , add another loose pulley, and feed the rope through the final attached pulley. The rope should run through 5 pulleys, with a loose pulley hanging from the rope between each pair of ceiling hooks. Attach a carabiner to the rope between each pair of hooks.
6. Cut two lengths of rope off of the loose end. Use one piece to tie into a loop that can slip around the bicycle seat and attach to one of the carabiners. Tie the other piece into a loop that wraps around a portion of the handlebars, loops through itself and clips onto the other carabiner. Connect the loops to the bike and carabiners.
7. Pull the loose end of the rope to raise bike to the ceiling, then tie off the rope securely to the cleat. Wrap up the excess loose rope and it store on the cleat.
Tags: attached pulley, each pair, into ceiling, loose pulley, loose rope
America seems to run on consumer borrowing and spending. We are a product-based economy, and many products are financed, not purchased outright, from retail outlets. Things like homes and cars may be necessary items to finance, but the scope of the American credit reach can be problematic. Knowing limits and adhering to them is essential to financial health.
Instructions
1. Review your finances carefully. Collect the following: all financial statements (especially if you own a business), copies of all loan statements, pay stubs, W2s and prior year tax returns. Pull a copy of your credit report (see Resources section) and determine your total debt load, how much you spend on monthly bills and your credit score.
2. Determine your financial goals. Make a three-, four- or five-year plan to help reduce the stress of living month-to-month.
3. Divide your monthly debt payments by your monthly income to calculate , which compares the amount of income you are bringing in to the amount you are paying each month in debt. (For example, if you're paid $4,000 per month, after taxes, and have a total of $1,800 in monthly expenses, your debt-to-income ratio is 0.45 or 45 percent. In general, a ratio of 36 percent or less is considered good.)
4. Stop borrowing if your debt-to-income ratio is higher than 30 percent. Review your statements and determine which expenses can be cut. Use only a debit card and create a weekly and monthly budget that works toward paying down debt, rather than incurring further debt.
5. Begin paying off debt if you are over the 30 percent threshold. Focus on one account at a time, making extra payments against it to pay it down quickly. Incorporate extra funds into your monthly budget to allow for this extra payment on your loan. Create incentives for yourself (small purchases or gifts) that will motivate you to adhere to the budget.
Tags: debt-to-income ratio, your debt-to-income, your debt-to-income ratio, your monthly, monthly budget, ratio percent
Install safe ceiling mounts that are non-intrusive and support your pull-up bar to prevent accidents. Install the pull-up bar in the ceiling to make it convenient for you to exercise whenever you desire. The pull-up bar provides an immediate available method to exercise without having to locate equipment or go to a gym. Mount the pull-up bar in a bedroom, hallway or exercise room. If you have carpentry skills you can install the pull-up bar in an afternoon, otherwise, it may require longer to install.
Instructions
Preparing the Ceiling
1. Stand on a stepladder and use an electric stud finder to locate two ceiling joists in the spot you plan to install the pull-up bar. Pass the stud finder over the wall. It beeps when a joist is located. Mark the position of the joist with a pencil.
2. Draw a rectangle on the ceiling that overlaps each of the ceiling joists by 6-inches and that is 2-feet wide.
3. Use a reciprocating saw to remove the rectangle from the ceiling and set it aside for later replacement in the ceiling.
Installing the Pull-up Bar Mounts
4. Cut two 2-by-8-inch ceiling mount boards to a length of 18 inches. Saw off the edges of one end of each board at a 45-degree angle. Measure 4 inches up from the tapered bottom of each board and use an electric drill motor to bore a hole 1 inch in diameter in the middle of the board.
5. Measure along the ceiling joist from the wall to the location you are placing the pull-up bar mounts. Measure and mark the same distance on the other joist so the 2-by-8-by-18-inch boards are placed straight across from each other.
6. Place the flat edge of one of the 2-by-8-by-18-inch boards against the inside of the joist. Make certain it is level with the top of the ceiling joist and make a pencil mark along each side onto the joist.
7. Spread wood glue liberally on the joist between the two pencil marks. Place the against the joist, between the pencil marks with the top edge flush and level with the top of the joist. Hold it in place for two to three minutes so it bonds.
8. Drive one 3-inch long wood screw through the top and bottom of the board into the joist.
9. Drill one ¼-inch diameter hole into each corner of the 2-by-8-by-18-inch board continuing through the ceiling joist.
10. Place a washer onto a ¼-by-6-inch long bolt, push it through the hole, apply another washer and tighten a nut onto the bolt.
11. Install the second 2-by-8-by-18-inch board where you made the mark earlier onto the opposite joist.
12. Spread glue on the joist between the two pencil marks, position the ceiling mount board on the joist and drive a screw into the top and bottom of the board into the joist. Drill ¼-inch diameter holes through each corner of the board and apply the bolts, washers and nuts to secure the ceiling mount to the joist.
13. Thread the 1-inch diameter iron bar through the holes in the tapered ends of the boards so that it overlaps each board evenly. Loop a heavy-duty plastic zip-tie strip over the bar against the tapered board and pull it tight. Snip off the excess with wire-cutters. Repeat the process on the other side of the tapered board to stop the bar from sliding in the holes.
14. Cut the rectangle of ceiling you removed earlier so that it fits around the tapered boards that form the ceiling mount. Apply drywall compound to the edges of the rectangle according to manufacturer's directions. Tape the seams and paint the rectangle to match the existing ceiling.
Tags: ceiling mount, 2-by-8-by-18-inch board, between pencil, between pencil marks, , each board, joist between
Suspended ceilings are a common fixture in homes and offices. These ceilings are installed easily and are durable, sometimes so durable that decorating trends change and leave older ceilings behind. The metal grid can be repainted, and the tiles can be painted or replaced. Painting a ceiling grid is a bit trickier than painting a wall, but it's an easy afternoon project.
Preparation
Even if you plan to paint the ceiling tiles themselves, it's best to tackle each job separately. The paint required to cover the metal grid would deaden the acoustical sound absorption properties of the tiles. Completely mask the tiles and light fixtures with tape and newspaper, covering up to the edge of the tile hidden by the grid, or simply remove the tiles. While almost all tiles in your ceiling will be interchangeable, mark oddly shaped tiles on the back so they'll be easy to replace. If the ceiling grid has been exposed to smoke, cooking or excessive dust, use a degreaser like trisodium phosphate and hot water to clean the metal. Choose a system to make sure each piece of grid has been cleaned, or the paint will adhere unevenly.
Priming
Remove any rust spots with high-grit sandpaper. Previously painted metal should be scuffed with steel wool so the paint will adhere. Unpainted metal requires a metal primer to keep your final coat from flaking and to prevent oxidation. Don't use textured or rust-prevention primers. Apply the primer with a spray can or a small, high-quality brush. If spraying, mask the walls with newspaper to at least four feet from the ceiling, and put down drop cloths to catch overspray. Let the primer dry according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically at least four hours.
Painting
There are several ways to apply paint, and the best for you will depend on your situation. For small ceilings, a ladder and a small pure China bristle brush are all you need. For larger ceilings, a spray can is faster, though should not be used if excess paint will harm the ceiling the grid is suspended from. In this case, or for especially high ceilings, use a trim roller with a quarter-inch nap and an extension pole. Use a semi-gloss latex or oil paint on most ceilings, though in a home theater use a flat paint to avoid distracting reflections. Paint the outside edge of the grid with a brush and then spray or roll the rest of the ceiling. Let the paint dry and apply a second coat if the coverage seems uneven. Reinstall the ceiling tiles.
Tags: ceiling grid, paint will, Best Paint, Best Paint Ceiling, Ceiling Tile, Ceiling Tile Grid
Pull chains or cords may have decorative beads for gripping.
Pull chain light switches are inexpensive switches often made of plastic with nickel or brass fittings to complement the color of your light fixture. The constant use of the pull chain switch can cause the light switch to break, leaving a light permanently on or off. Pull chain light switches are universal and not specific to any one manufacturer. Save some money by replacing this inexpensive switch rather than replacing the entire light fixture.
Instructions
1. Disconnect the electricity to the pull chain light fixture at the main breaker panel. Locate the breaker that supplies electricity to the light fixture and turn it off.
2. Remove the light shade and the light bulbs if applicable. Remove the screws to the light fixture holding it to the ceiling electrical box.
3. Pull the fixture from the ceiling and untwist the wire connectors holding the white wire from the light fixture and the white wire from the ceiling electrical box together. Untwist the connector holding the two black wires together, the one from the ceiling box and one from the light fixture pull chain switch. Finish disconnecting the light fixture from the ceiling by untwisting the connector holding the bare copper wire from the ceiling electrical box to the green ground wire from the light fixture.
4. Move your light fixture to a sturdy work surface. Untwist the retaining nut from the exterior of the light fixture that holds the pull chain switch. The chain from the switch threads through the retaining nut for easy identification.
5. Untwist the connector holding a black wire from the pull chain switch to the black wire from the light fixture. The pull chain switch has two black wires attached to it. One wire connects to the power supply wire inside the electrical box and the other wire connects to the light fixture.
6. Remove the old pull chain switch from the light fixture and discard it. Insert the threaded throat of a replacement pull chain switch through the opening you removed the old switch from. Thread the chain through the retaining nut and attach the nut to the threaded throat of the switch, turning it clockwise.
7. Connect the black wire from the light fixture to a black wire from the pull chain switch by twisting an orange wire connector onto both wires.
8. Twist an orange wire connector to the black wire from the ceiling electrical box to the remaining black wire of the pull chain switch, connecting them together. Reconnect the two white wires together with another orange wire connector. Twist an orange wire connector onto the bare copper wire from the ceiling electrical box connecting it with the green wire from the light fixture.
9. Reattach the light fixture to the ceiling electrical box with the screws you removed in Step 2. Replace the light bulbs and the light shade onto the light fixture. Turn the electricity on at the main electrical breaker panel.
Tags: light fixture, wire from, pull chain switch, chain switch, from ceiling, from light, from light fixture
A 120-volt fan can be controlled by a simple dimmer switch.
How you control a fan, depends partially on what type of motor powers the fan. Most DC motors are controlled by changing the voltage applied to the motor's input terminals. AC motors can be controlled by changing the frequency of the voltage, changing the voltage, or using a motor with multiple speed coils. Each of these forms of motor control uses a different type of switch. Building a motor controller can be simple with carefully chosen parts.
Instructions
1. Connect one end of a black piece of electrical wire to the of the 12-volt battery. Connect the other end of that wire to one of the two terminals or the on/off switch.
2. Connect a three inch piece of black wire to the second terminal of the on/off switch. Then connect the other end of that wire to one of the two terminals of the dimmer switch. Connect the remaining terminal of the dimmer switch to the negative terminal of the fan motor.
3. Connect a red wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the motor. The on/off switch and dimmer switch together form a fan control. The on/off switch is used to turn the fan on and off while the dimmer switch controls the fan's speed by changing the amount of voltage sent to the fan motor.
"Market value" is an economic term used to describe the natural price that a particular good or service has in a particular market at a given point in time. A number of different determinants contribute to the market value for a good or service. These determinants can cause the value of that good or service to fluctuate.
Supply and Demand
The supply for a good or service is the willingness and ability for firms or individuals to furnish it to the market at a particular price; the demand for a good or service is the willingness and ability for buyers to purchase it. When economists illustrate supply and demand, they do so by displaying them as two lines on a graph, with the supply curve usually sloping upward and the demand curve sloping downward. The horizontal axis of the graph displays the quantity of the service or good, while the vertical axis displays the price. The point at which these two curves intersect is the market value. This intersection shows the number of units the market wants to buy and the price that the market is willing to pay.
Fluctuations
The supply and demand curves for a particular product in a market are never fixed. When a natural disaster occurs, for instance, certain goods may become scarce, which causes the price to rise. Even if the supply level remains constant, other goods --- such as generators or bottled water --- may experience higher levels of demand due to this natural disaster; this causes the price to rise as well. In contrast, when more firms enter the market and start selling the same types of goods that existing firms are selling, the firms lower their prices so that they can compete. This causes the market value for those goods to fall.
Artificial Constraints on Market Value
Governments sometimes force sellers to sell their goods for less than what the market is willing to pay --- this is called a price ceiling. The purpose of price ceilings is to keep sellers from taking advantage of the needy by charging exorbitant amounts of money for necessary goods. However, economists argue that such price ceilings only result in shortages of those necessary goods because it causes sellers to be less willing to meet demand.
Another artificial constraint on market value is taxation. Whenever governments levy taxes on goods or services, this results in an artificially high price, which causes buyers to purchase less than they otherwise would.
Creating a Perception of Value
When two companies provide products of similar intrinsic value, they may compete by investing in further research and development to make even better products. However, certain products, especially food and beverage products or clothing, simply can't become any better. In situations like this, companies often compete through marketing. They may use advertisements, slogans and recognizable labels to assert a certain level of value for their products. Even when such a company keeps producing products of similar intrinsic caliber to those produced by its competition, they may command a higher market value because the company has created a perception of value in the eyes of consumers.
Canopy beds provide a sense of mystery and comfort to a bedroom. There are canopy bed kits available in stores, but the process of making one is simple enough that a trip to the fabric store is all you need. Choose fabrics that compliment your home decor and personal style for a luxurious bed canopy that can be left open or closed for privacy.
Instructions
1. Screw a decorative hook into the ceiling over each corner of your bed.
2. Tie a decorative rope to one hook, then stretch it tightly to the next hook and tie it in place. Continue this with the other hooks, creating a rectangle of rope suspended over the bed.
3. Measure the distance from the floor at the foot of the bed up to the rope, across to the opposite rope and down to the floor at the head of the bed. Repeat this process for the sides of the bed.
4. Cut two pieces of decorative fabric to match your longer foot-to-head measurement, and two more to fit the shorter side-to-side measurement.
5. Feed one of the longer pieces of fabric over the rope at the foot of the bed, then over the rope at the head of the bed. Position the fabric so that the ends touch the ground, then slide it over to one side.
6. process with the other longer piece of fabric, extending it from the foot of the bed to the head.
7. Extend the two shorter pieces across the side ropes, draping them down to the floor on the sides of the bed.
8. Spread the fabric out evenly on the ropes. Slide each piece away from the center of the rope to create a gap in the middle of each side of the bed.
9. Cut four 2-foot pieces of the decorative rope.
10. Gather the pieces of fabric at each corner and tie them with a piece of rope. The ropes should be level with the top of the mattress.
Tags: decorative rope, down floor, each corner, over rope, pieces decorative, pieces fabric, Repeat this
You need two switches to control a fan with lights.
A ceiling fan keeps you comfortable in summer, and in winter it can save energy by circulating hot air that tends to collect near the ceiling. If your fan comes with an optional light kit, it should have four wires. Although the colors can vary according to manufacturer, the green one is ground and the white one is neutral. The black wire is the hot wire for the fan, and the red one is the hot wire for the lights. There are two ways to wire the red wire, depending on whether you want the lights on a separate switch.
Instructions
1. Draw the outline of a switch box on the wall at a convenient location. Use a double-gang remodeling box if you want the fan and light to have separate switches. Use a single-gang remodeling box if the lights have a pull-chain, and you only need a switch for the fan.
2. Run a length of three-strand electrical cable from the panel through the basement or attic. Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the top or bottom plate of the wall on which the switch is located, pass the wire down and pull it out of the hole. Run another length of cable from the switch to the fan. Use three-strand cable if you are wiring one switch and four-strand cable with an extra red wire if you are wiring two.
3. Feed the ends of the cables at the switch through the back of the electrical box and fit the box in the hole. Rotate the screws until the anchors behind the box contact the drywall, then tighten the screws to affix the box to the wall. Cut 6 inches of sheathing off the ends of the cables with a utility knife, then strip the ends of the insulated wires with a wire stripper.
4. Wire two switches by cutting open two 10-inch lengths of spare cable and removing the , then stripping both ends of each wire. Twist the two 10-inch lengths of wire together with the black wire coming from the panel and screw on a wire cap. Connect the end of one of the wires to the top brass terminal of one switch, and the end of the other wire to the top brass terminal of the other switch. Tighten the terminal screws with a screwdriver.
5. Attach the black wire leading to the fan to the bottom brass terminal of one switch, and the red wire to the bottom brass terminal of the other. Twist both of the white wires together with pliers and screw on a wire cap. Wrap the ground wire from the house circuit around the ground crew on one terminal, then extend the end to the other switch and wrap it around the ground terminal on that switch. Wrap the ground wire leading to the lamp around the ground terminal on one of the switches, then tighten the ground screws with a screwdriver.
6. Wire a single switch by attaching the black wire from the house circuit to the top brass terminal and the black wire leading to the fan to the bottom brass terminal. Twist the white wires together and cap them, then connect the ground wires to the green ground screw.
7. Twist the white wire in the fan with the white wire coming from the switch and cap them, and the green wire in the fan with the bare ground wire. If you are wiring a double switch, twist the red wires together and the black wires together and screw on wire caps. The caps will be provided with the light. If you are wiring a single switch, twist the red and black wires from the fan together with the black wire from the switch.
Tags: black wire, brass terminal, wires together, around ground, black wires
Keep your bathroom air clean by wiring a ceiling fan.
Bathrooms can collect odors and moisture, leading to mildew and unpleasant smells. That's where bathroom ceiling fans come in. These devices take the moisture and other atmospheric buildup in a bathroom and vent it to the outdoors, leaving the air in clean and odor free. Wiring a bathroom ceiling fan is relatively simple, even easier than installing the fan unit itself. You'll have your bathroom smelling fresh in no time.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the electrical circuit where you are installing the fan. Lock the main panel, if possible, to prevent others from accidentally switching on the circuit.
2. Access the wiring panel on your ceiling fan. In the majority of cases, the ceiling fan is located above the bathroom in a crawl space or attic. Take the electrical wire and wiring tools (needle nose pliers, wire cutters, screwdriver, electrical tape) with you. Take along a flashlight as well if you're working in a dark space.
3. Connect the wires according to your manufacturer's instructions. For a simple fan, this involves wiring the live wire (black) to the black wire on the fan unit and the white wire (neutral) to the white lead on the fan. Attach the ground (copper) wire to the green ground screw on the fan unit. Use wire nuts to secure the wires together, and wrap with electrical tape.
4. Feed the other end of the wire through the wall space to where the switch for the fan is located.
5. Inside the bathroom, attach the other end of the wire to the fan switch. Attach the white wire to the neutral terminal and the black to the live terminal. Attach the ground wire to the ground terminal on the switch or to the switch box itself, depending on your home's existing wiring.
6. Restore power to the electrical circuit, and check your work.
Exposed-beam ceilings lend a rustic look to a room.
The exposed beam look is commonly seen in log cabin designs as well as in some older homes with vaulted ceilings. Before you decide to open up the ceiling to expose the rafters, it's vital to determine whether insulation has been blown directly on top of the ceiling drywall. If so, it's going to be messy. If you have a plaster or textured popcorn ceiling, call in a professional to help you remove it. Textured ceilings sometimes have asbestos and can be dangerous to remove. Plastered ceilings can be heavy and can cause injury for the inexperienced.
Instructions
1. Prepare the room by removing all the furniture and laying down dropcloths. Tape the cloths into place to keep them from moving around underneath you while you work.
2. Pry off the existing drywall with a prybar. Locate the first seam at the edge of the room. Insert the prybar into the seam and pry downward to loosen the panel. If it won't come free, hit the panel with a hammer to knock a hole in it. Continue knocking holes in it until you can pull the panel free.
3. Place the drywall into large garbage bins for disposal. You need an open space to work, and broken drywall creates a hazard in the room.
4. Remove any remaining nails or screws in the ceiling joists. Place these into a little bucket while you work to keep from dropping them on the floor.
5. Examine the exposed beams. If they're not aged badly and are still a color you like, you won't need to stain them and you can skip to sanding lightly and sealing the beams. Otherwise, you need to refinish the beams.
6. Sand the beams with a hand sander until bare wood is exposed on all the beams.
7. Stain the wood beams to the desired color. Wear safety glasses so you don't get stain in your eyes. Brush on a coat of stain with a paintbrush and let it dry for six hours. Lightly buff the surface with a fine-grit sanding block.
8. Seal the wood beams with a clear polyurethane. Brush at least one coat of polyurethane onto the beams. Let this dry for eight hours. If you prefer a higher gloss, sand lightly and apply a second coat.
Vaulted ceilings are sometimes referred to as cathedral ceilings. The ceilings are arched and much higher than traditional ceilings. It creates a wide and open space that homeowners find appealing. It's harder to remodel these ceilings because a contractor must do major structural work to reconfigure the area. But it is possible to makeover the space with ideas that you can do yourself, without hiring a professional.
Make it Lower
To make a ceiling lower, you traditionally need to install a drop ceiling. Making it only appear lower is something you can do yourself, over the course of a weekend. Wood beams added to a vaulted ceiling, break up the wide, open space and make the ceiling look lower. Artificial wood beams are hollow in the center and slide onto hooks screwed into your ceiling. Depending on the height of your ceiling, you may need to rent or borrow a taller ladder, to reach the top of the vaulted ceiling. Wood beams and artificial wood beams come in a variety of colors and styles, including both lighter and darker woods and country style beams, complete with knotholes.
Add Texture
Makeover your vaulted ceilings by applying texture to the space. Popcorn spray is one technique that gives the space a new look. This also comes in an acoustical spray, which helps block sound from escaping the house. This may help reduce any echoes you hear, due to the tall height of the ceiling. Newer sprays don't contain asbestos like the older sprays, which means you can do this yourself. You can also apply the textured spray to the ceiling first and then let it dry before applying a coat of color to the walls. The paint adheres to the textured spaces in different ways, creating a unique look to the space.
Meet the Arch
If you dislike the high feel of your ceilings, then install new cabinets that reach toward the ceiling. Vaulted ceilings have a central arch and slant upward toward this arch. Install cabinets that reach where the angle of the ceiling . You can up to 12 feet in height, depending on your ceiling. The cabinets make the room feel smaller and break up the expanse of wall space. They also give you extra storage space, which is particularly appealing to those with an otherwise small home.
Tags: your ceiling, cabinets that, reach, install cabinets, make ceiling,
Add charm to your home with customized bookshelves.
Classic details like built-in bookcases can add an abundance of character to home, making a boring boxy house look like a 19th-century charmer. Carpenter's fees to create built-in bookshelves can really break the bank. Luckily, there are other options for creating built-in bookcases. IKEA offers a variety of bookshelf options at very reasonable prices and in a wealth of finish options, and with a little elbow grease you can make that pre-fabricated IKEA bookcase look like it was custom-built especially for your home.
Instructions
1. Identify the place in your home that you wish to place the bookcase. Some things to consider are the size and shape of a room, the amount of wall space, and the amount of traffic the area receives. You may also want to think about elements like moisture (too much can make MDF bookcases warp) and sunlight, which can damage books.
2. Measure the location you have chosen for your bookcase. Be sure to measure not only the height and width of the area, but also the depth of the space. Remember that you will need adequate space in front of the bookshelf to access the items you have placed on it. Be sure to include the trim measurements in your list of dimensions if you wish to finish off your bookcase with crown molding, toe kicks or other detailing.
3. Select the IKEA bookcase system that will best suit your needs. IKEA offers a range of bookcase system options.
BILLY is one of the most popular for customizing because it offers so many options as far as sizes and extensions. BILLY is also very reasonably priced - a 79 inch tall bookcase costs around sixty dollars.
The BESTA series focuses on television and media storage, and might be best for your needs if you plan to use your built-in bookcases as an entertainment unit.
EXPEDIT is a basic storage series that coordinates with IKEA's LACK series. EXPEDIT has the contemporary look of square shelving.
4. Assemble your bookcase according to IKEA's instructions.
5. Affix your bookcase to the wall using your electric screwdriver and wall anchors or L-brackets. For best results, use L-brackets and install each one in a wall stud. One end of the bracket is attached to the bookshelf, the other to the wall. The number of L-brackets required depends on the width of your bookcase, but to be safe you can install one into each stud. Use your stud finder to locate your studs, which are usually every 18 inches. If you are installing anchors, drill a hole slightly smaller than the anchor's diameter in the wall. Tap the anchor into the hole with a hammer, being careful not to bend the anchor. Screw your L-brackets into the anchors.
6. Attach any extensions you selected to the top or side of your bookcase. Use pieces of MDF as "filler" to take up a small amount of space between the bookcase and the trim or wall. Measure the space you need filled, then cut the MDF to size with a saw. Nail the pieces in place.
7. Cut the crown molding or other trimwork to fit the top and bottom of the bookcase using the miter saw. Miters are usually cut at 45 degree angles. The molding edges should lie flat against the ceiling and bookcase. Cut the corners with a miter saw so they lie flat. To create standard corners, cut both halves of the joint at 45 degrees with the miter saw. If you prefer "professional" inside corners, cut one half of each inside corner with a straight cut and complete the other half using a miter cut, then trim to fit using a coping saw.
8. Install the trimwork using your hammer and nails. Crown molding wraps around the top, toe kicks or baseboard wrap around the bottom. Install nails with your hammer about every 6 inches.
9. Fill any holes from the assembly of the bookcase or trim installation using wood filler or putty. Apply wood putty with a putty knife. This will conceal unsightly nail holes and help make the bookcases appear custom-built rather than pre-fabricated. Allow putty-style wood filler to dry for about 2 hours before proceeding.
10. Sand the entire bookcase using sandpaper. Be careful not to apply too much pressure or you could damage the surface of the bookshelf. Since many IKEA bookcases are made of MDF, stick with fine sandpaper of 100 or 120 grit.
11. Prime and paint your bookshelf using several coats of paint. Brushes work best on furniture surfaces. The drying time between coats will vary depending on what type of paint you have selected, and will be indicated on the label of your paint can.
Tags: your bookcase, built-in bookcases, , bookcase system, bookcase trim, bookcase using
Insulating your attic reduces heat loss and can save you money on utility bills. Most new homes have soffit vents that allow cool, fresh air to enter the attic at the soffit level. Hot attic air then rises and exits through vents higher on the roof. Some older homes, however, have only gable or roof vents but not soffit vents. When insulating an attic without soffit vents, install the batts as far as possible into the wedge-shaped space above the soffit.
Instructions
Batt Insulation Method
1. Purchase insulation sufficient to meet building codes in your area. The typical R-value, or thermal-resistance value, for an attic is R-30. Standard R-30 batts are about 11 inches thick and are available in pre-cut widths to fit standard joist spacing.
2. Cut a 2-foot section of unfaced batt insulation, with a sharp utility knife, and insert it between the floor joists in the attic. Push the batt into the narrow space at the sloped edge of the attic. The end of the batt will compress some as you push it into the space, but don't smash it. The ideal spot for the end of the batt is just above the wall plate.
3. Lay a longer insulation batt in the same joist space, butting the end of it snugly against the end of the first short batt. The batts should fit neatly between the joists without crushing.
4. Continue to measure and cut the insulation batts, using short 2-foot batts each time you insert the insulation in the narrow wedge at the side of the attic. Throughout the rest of the attic, you can use longer batts.
Blown-In Insulation Method
5. Follow the first two steps for inserting short batt insulation into each joist space at the edges of the attic, to block the soffit area. Without the batts as blocks, blown-in insulation can filter down into the soffit space, leaving gaps in the attic insulation.
6. Blow in cellulose fiber insulation to the depth of 11 inches to achieve an R-30 value. You can rent an insulation blower, with a long hose that reaches from the blowing unit to the attic, from a construction rental store or lumberyard.
7. Ask an assistant to turn on the blower while you're in the attic with the hose. The insulating fiber doesn't blow out as much as it lightly drops out, allowing you to direct the insulation between the joists to the desired height.
The Minka Group makes lights for home and commercial use.
Minka lighting refers to a range of decorative lighting products manufactured and sold by the Minka Group. Minka has national distribution centers in Corona, California, and Concord, North Carolina, to ship its products throughout the United States. Headquartered in Corona, Minka touts itself as a leader in the decorative lighting industry.
Brands
Minka lighting products are divided into several brands: Ambience, which is primarily basic floor and table lamps; Minka-Lavery, which mostly focuses on chandeliers; Metropolitan, which includes chandeliers, pendants and appliques; The Great Outdoors, which focuses on outdoor lighting; George Kovacs, which is inspired by the mid-century design of George Kovacs; and GK Lightrail, a division of George Kovacs that focuses on rail lighting systems.
Other Brands
Minka also has exclusive licensed products through its collaborations with retail and entertainment companies such as Jessica McClintock Inc. and the Walt Disney Co. Minka also collaborates with the Kathy Ireland Home and Hearst Castle imprints and has a selection of Energy Star products, which adhere to international standards for energy-efficient consumer products.
Products
The Minka lighting lineup is extensive. It includes chandeliers; pendants; appliques; floor, wall and table lamps; three series of fixtures; fluorescent lights; flush mounts; lanterns; and rail lighting. Minka offers lights for indoor and outdoor use, and for both residential and commercial settings.
Retailers
Minka has retail partners in the form of local lighting companies in the United States. It also has retailers in Canada, Puerto Rico, Brazil, Jamaica and the Cayman Islands. Minka has more than 2,100 partners worldwide.
Fans
Although Minka is best known for its lighting, it also carries ceiling fans. These are available under the Minka-Aire brand. The company sells fans in 70 different styles and designs.
When you employ JavaScript on your web page, you are able to increase the amount of moving elements on the page. While you can use JavaScript for elements such as web forms, polls, surveys and games, you may also use it to create design elements. For example, you can do things like add animation to a butterfly.
Instructions
1. Log in to your web server and click on the HTML document in which you want to insert an animated butterfly.
2. Click inside the "" tag and insert this code:
var Ymax=8; //MAX # OF PIXEL STEPS IN THE "X" DIRECTION
var Xmax=8; //MAX # OF PIXEL STEPS IN THE "Y" DIRECTION
var Tmax=10000; //MAX # OF MILLISECONDS BETWEEN PARAMETER CHANGES