Install A New Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Bathrooms with showers are prime candidates for bathroom exhaust fans.

Bathroom exhaust fans are very important pieces of equipment for maintaining a happy and healthy bathroom environment. These fans help evacuate unwanted odors from the bathroom more quickly than just relying on the normal flow of air within the home. Bathroom fans also help keep those odors localized inside the bathroom. Another benefit of bathroom exhaust fans is mold reduction. Bathroom fans help to keep the humidity inside the bathroom under control so that mold growth is minimized.

Instructions

1. Locate and mark the proposed location of the new bathroom exhaust fan on the bathroom ceiling. The fan should sit between two of the ceiling joists and adjacent to at least one ceiling joist. Some manufacturers include a template for positioning and cutting the hole for the fan.

2. Use the drywall saw to cut the exhaust fan hole in the bathroom ceiling. Take the exhaust fan up into the attic. Using screws, mount the exhaust fan to the ceiling joist adjacent to the hole so that the fan intake is directly over the hole.

3. Shut off the power to the circuit feeding the bathroom at the main power panel. Find an electrical box on that circuit to take power from. A good option is to extend the circuit that handles the bathroom lighting. This would put the fan on the same circuit as the light switch. Extend a piece of Romex 12-2 wire from the exhaust fan to the lighting fixture electrical box. Strip 1/2 of an inch of insulation off of the black and white wires.

4. Connect the black and white wires of one end of the Romex cable to the corresponding black and white wires in the exhaust fan. If there is a ground wire, connect it too. Add plastic splice caps to secure the connections.

5. Connect the black wire and white wire of the Romex cable to the black wire and white wire of the light fixture.

6. Turn the power back on and test the fan operation. Install and secure the bathroom vent cover.

Tags: black white, black white wires, exhaust fans, white wires, bathroom ceiling

Repair A Popcorn Ceiling

Though its appeal varies, the popcorn ceiling treatment has several advantages. It is cost-effective, is relatively easy to apply and has some acoustical advantages. One of the several disadvantages, however, is that repairs can be tricky. If you don't match the texture of the existing ceiling well, your repair can be noticeable. In addition, if you don't resolve the underlying reason for the original damage, your repair won't last.

Instructions

1. Determine the reason for the damage and fix accordingly. If it's a hole from a ceiling hook or other similar damage, you only need to fill the hole or dent before you apply the texture. If the damage is from water or other leaks, fix the leak and take care of any underlying damage before you repair the textured area of the ceiling.

2. Prepare the damaged area by sanding it smooth and removing all old texture from it. If any of the damaged texture remains, your new texture may not stick. Prime the damaged area.

3. Match your texture. For a more personalized match, use a paint additive as opposed to a premixed spray-on texture. This allows you to have more control over the size and concentration of the aggregate used to get the popcorn effect. You can buy fine-, medium- or coarse-grade aggregate. Mix a small batch and paint it on a spare piece of plywood or drywall. Gradually add aggregate until you've matched the existing ceiling.

4. Protect your nontarget areas by covering them well, because this texture technique is quite messy. Have water and rags or sponges available for quickly cleaning any messes that may spread beyond your protected area.

5. Apply the texture. You can use a roller for most areas. If the repair is close to a wall, you can use a brush or edger to get into the areas the roller can't reach. Apply the first pass until it overlaps the existing texture.

6. Randomize the effect. Without dipping your roller or brush back into the paint, go back over the area in several directions, applying from the wet areas to the dry areas. This minimizes any pattern that may develop from the first application. Don't overwork the area. You should stop after a minute or two of working.

7. Allow the area to dry. If the repaired area has less texture than the existing ceiling, you can add a second coat of texture. If it's acceptable, paint the repair using the same paint used on the rest of the ceiling.

Tags: existing ceiling, damaged area, your repair, your texture

Replacement Of Ceiling Fan Blades

Deciding if the fan blade needs to be replaced

Sometimes a fan blade doesn't need to be replaced--it may just be out of alignment. Check the alignment by comparing the distance from the ceiling to the top of each blade on the fan. If a blade is closer to the ceiling than other blades, then it can be bent downward. These blades can be easily repositioned. Adjusting the screws will tighten the connection between the blade and the fan, thus reducing any wobbling. Plastic fan blades can be literally bent by hand into better alignment. Also check blades for even distribution. Stand under the fan, now turned off, and observe the blades with the fan turned off. If any blades are not evenly spaced, make adjustments to the bracket with a screwdriver.

Removing blades

Replacing ceiling fan blades requires a few simple tools, such as a ladder and screwdriver. Any fan blade covers should be removed before taking out the fan blades. Some ceiling fans have weights on them to hold everything in place.

Replacing the blades

Place each fan blade into position. Insert the screws in each of the fan blade fitting holes. Secure the whole arrangement with a screwdriver. If you have fan blade covers, place these over the blades. Set the weights back on the fan blades if needed. Turn on the fan to test the balance between the blades. Observe the fan to ensure it doesn't wobble when turned on.

Conflicting blades

Ceiling fans are best replaced with blades ordered from the original manufacturer. Off-the-shelf ceiling fans usually have similar standards for blade length, width and weight. Sometimes the blades come without holes. Other times the blades will have holes that do not match with the fan. The only way this is resolved is by drilling new holes in the fan blades. The brackets on the fan can be used to find the size of hole you need to drill in the fan blades.

Fan motors

Installing new fan blades requires some attention to the power of the motor. Replacement blades should always be very similar to the older blades in regard to length and weight. If the blades are too heavy, the fan motor will get worn out. If the blades are too light, the air will not circulate properly. A strong motor will be able to handle just about any size of blades.

Tags: each blade, blade covers, blades requires, ceiling fans, motor will, with screwdriver

Make Ceiling Beams Out Of Styrofoam

It's a beautiful room . . . well, it's almost a beautiful room. Right now it's a good-looking but slightly bland room that needs a defining detail--like ceiling beams. Turn a cathedral ceiling into something that adds a more defined, established, slightly historic touch. The mere thought of installing wood ceiling beams makes your back and your budget ache. So let some off-the-walls thinking provide an on-the-walls solution: Styrofoam.

Instructions

1. Measure the lengths of Styrofoam you'll need and the intervals at which you will place beams. For a flat ceiling, measure wall to wall. Mark the intervals at which you plan to install beams. If your source of Styrofoam can't supply the length you need, cut beams in shorter pieces first, then fit them together when gluing them in place. Mark your ceiling with enough guidelines to set your long or shorter pieces of beams in place; masking tape lines are easier to follow. For a pitched ceiling, allow an extra 6 inches of foam per beam. You'll be cutting small pieces to fill in angles between the ceiling and wall. If you want a rustic, hand-hewn look to your ceiling beams, allow an extra couple of feet to practice your hand-hewing techniques.

2. Measure the Styrofoam and cut it to size. You may be lucky enough to find prefab Styrofoam beams (this decorating strategy is not a tightly-held secret). If you find them, skip to Step 5.

3. Add some rustic wood-like effects if you like. Start on your practice piece and see what effects you can get with a table knife: cut small nicks, tap it with a hammer for a chisel effect or use the hammer to bang it flat into the Styrofoam. Try out what your sharp knife or open scissor blade can add. Empty out the gadget drawer--tablespoon/hammer, that waffle-cutter for the homemade french fries you don't make, pizza cutter--get creative. Once you've found your best techniques, apply them to your beams.

4. Stain or paint your beams or pieces of beams. If working with pieces, stain ends as well as the beams to avoid Styrofoam showing through. Begin with your practice piece so you know how much stain or paint will be absorbed by the Styrofoam with each coat. Let it dry thoroughly.

5. Attach the beams using wood glue. This is, of course, the most precarious part of the job, so do the following to avoid dripping glue and dropping beams. Coat the side of the beam that will attach to the wall with an even coat of wood glue. Set it aside to set partially dry--to the tacky stage. If assembling beams in pieces, apply the glue to the beam ends but don't join the pieces until you attach them to the ceiling. While that happens, apply a coat of glue along the line where the beam will go. Let the glue dry to the tacky stage. When the ceiling and beam glue are tacky, attach the beam to the ceiling with a helper. Moving ladders as needed, press the beam or beam pieces to the ceiling with dry sponges, two or three times every 5 to 10 minutes until you are certain of a firm hold. Repeat this until all beams are firmly in place.

Tags: ceiling beams, ceiling with, allow extra, beams pieces, beautiful room, glue tacky

Remove Ceiling Insulation

There are many reasons you may need to remove the insulation from a ceiling, but it is always necessary to work carefully to avoid sustaining injuries from the insulation. Two types of insulation are used, each requiring a different removal method. If you take the correct precautions, removing either type of insulation is simple and safe.

Instructions

Blown Insulation

1. Cut a small hole in the ceiling with a reciprocating saw. The hole should be just big enough to insert the nozzle of the leaf blower.

2. Insert the air nozzle of the leaf blower into the hole in the ceiling.

3. Remove the zippered bag that came attached to the leaf blower.

4. Wrap the opening of one of the garbage bags around the outlet of the blower. This is where you took the zippered bag off. Leave the bag slightly slack around the blower so you aren't making an airtight seal.

5. Turn the leaf blower on in the reverse setting so the machine is sucking in air rather than blowing.

6. Turn off the blower if the bag becomes full of insulation. Take it off the blower and put an empty bag in its place.

7. Cut another hole in the ceiling when no more insulation comes out of the blower. Remove the insulation throughout the entire ceiling this way.

Rolled Insulation

8. Climb through the attic or pull down the ceiling panels to gain access to the ceiling.

9. Pry up the nails or staples holding the insulation in place. Use the back of a hammer to get the hardware out.

10. Roll the insulation up and away from you and remove it from the ceiling carefully.

11. Place each roll of insulation into a trash bag and tie it up when the bag is full.

12. Clear away the insulation in this way until the ceiling is empty.

Tags: leaf blower, hole ceiling, from ceiling, nozzle leaf, nozzle leaf blower

Hang A Ceiling Mounted Pot Rack

Hanging a pot rack in your kitchen will save you a lot of space and help add some style to you home. This is an easy job to complete by yourself in just a few minutes of your day. Not many tools are needed and no strenuous work will be involved. Once you are done, your home will have your personal customized look that you want your home to have.

Instructions

Hanging a pot rack

1. Use a stud finder to find a support stud that you will be using to hang your pot rack from. Mark the stud location with an ink pen.

2. Drill a pilot hole into the stud where you just marked it. Screw the support hook into the spot marked on the stud with your hand.

3. Lift the pot rack up to the support hook. Connect the support ring on the pot rack to the support hook.

4. Pull slightly on your pot rack. Make sure that your pot rack will bear weight.

5. Hang your pots on your pot rack. Adjust to ensure that the pot rack is level.

Tags: your rack, support hook, Hanging rack, rack support, rack support hook, your home

Happily Communicate With A Deaf Cat

Baby Jaz

Loving a deaf cat might sound challenging, but you will soon quickly learn that animals are highly adaptive, particularly when they don't know they may be different.

Instructions

1. Deaf cats may not be able to hear, but their sense of feel is extraordinary. They will feel vibrations from other pets walking on the floor, even toilets flushing. Sometimes you may question whether or not the kitty is truly deaf.

2. Because deaf cats cannot control the volume of their voices, they usually fall into one of two categories with respect to vocalization: 1) They meow rarely, or not at all; 2) Their mews and screams are inappropriate. For example, a hearing kitty would know to quietly sneak up on a bird at the window. The deaf kitty might go running and let out a loud squeal, not realizing her squeal warned the bird. Or a deaf kitty might let out a big scream that sounds like her tail is caught in the door, but you discover she's just having fun with her toy mouse.

3. With other cats, you've likely noticed that their ears flicker and move when they hear noises. Your deaf cat's ears will flicker and move as well, but these are communications to you, or other family members and pets. Over time, you may be able to understand what certain ear flickers mean.

4. Deaf cats are easily startled. If you are walking up on a deaf cat, stomp your feet heavily on the floor to let her know you're coming.

5. All cats have a need to be high in the air, but deaf cats have more extreme needs for high places. Make sure you give her places where she can be high - a top shelf in a closet, perhaps. Or you can easily build a shelf out of scrap wood and attach it a few inches from the ceiling.

6. She may turn her back on you to ignore you, knowing she's getting ready to jump on something not allowed. To get her attention, stomp your foot on the floor a few times. She will feel it, although she may still choose to ignore you.

7. Learning some basic sign language is a great learning experience for you and your cat. Mouthing the words at the same time reinforces what you want to communicate. Of course, your own body language and facial expressions will go a long way in telling her yes or no.

I have also made up my own hand signals on the fly. For example, when a hummingbird would visit the window feeder, I flapped my fingers in a bird motion and said, in singsong, "Hummingbird, hummingbird." She quickly learned what it meant and could look to the window for the bird. Saying the word not only added a method of communication with her, it also let my hearing cat know we had a visitor.

8. If kitty will stand for it, you can put your mouth against her head, tummy or back and say words. I use the phrase "pretty girl," while overemphasizing the "p" sound and blowing onto the top of her head or her back. She may not know it means she's pretty, but she does know it means I'm crazy about her and she immediately gets cuddly and purrs.

9. Don't be surprised if your other cats don't seem to realize she's deaf. They may call for her.

Tags: cats have, deaf kitty, deaf kitty might, flicker move, kitty might, know means

Repair Painted Plaster Ceilings

Repair a plaster ceiling with a few basic steps.

Plaster is not seen as much in newer construction because it tends to crack when the house settles. Most homes these days use drywall instead. However if you have a home with a painted plaster ceiling that needs repairing, there is no need for concern. It actually is easily fixed once you get the hang of the technique, and your ceiling problem with be gone before you know it.

Instructions

1. Set up a ladder below the damaged area and climb up.

2. Pull out one small painted plaster chip at least 1 inch square for later.

3. Drill in plaster washers all around the cracked area of the ceiling to secure it and keep it from cracking further or spidering out in other directions. Place them every 2 or 3 inches and encircle the damaged area. Drill additional washers into the crack itself so that the washer presses holds both sides of the crack back in place on the ceiling. The screws will go through the plaster and into the lath behind it. The lath is made up of wooden pieces that hold the plaster to the wall or ceiling. If you don't hit a lath strip, keep trying until you do. Holes are not an issue and will be covered when you patch the area. Use as many as needed to ensure that the cracks will not spread.

4. Smear joint compound on the ceiling in the damaged area. Use enough to barely cover the cracks and washers. A plaster hawk is the tool for this. Smooth over the surface to take off excess.

5. Press a mesh screen into the compound. It needs to be large enough to cover the bulk of the cracks. Screen porch mesh works well for this.

6. Smear on compound again and smooth. Taper the compound as you work away from the cracks to get the level of the compound back down to the rest of the ceiling. Let it dry for at least a day.

7. Sand the surface of the repair with 220 grit paper. Add compound to any uneven areas and let dry again if necessary. Sand one final time.

8. Take the plaster chip to your local home improvement store and have workers match the paint color with the proper type of paint.

9. Paint the repair area with the matching paint and let it dry.

Tags: damaged area, painted plaster, plaster ceiling, plaster chip

Remove A Stuck Ceiling Fixture Globe

A bulb in a lighting fixture with a globe on it can be more difficult to replace than one in a hanging fixture.

Replacing a light bulb in a ceiling fixture requires removing the globe from the fixture to access the bulb. Ceiling fixture globes secure to the fixture either by separate screws along the outside edge of the fixture or by screwing directly into it. Often a globe may feel stuck when you initially attempt to remove it from the fixture. This is most often due to simple settling since the globe does not require much movement. Grease, dust and grime can adhere the globe to the fixture. Removing a stuck ceiling fixture globe involves finding that one spot where the globe feels free of the fixture before you attempt to remove it.

Instructions

1. Place a step stool under the fixture so that you can reach it comfortably. Look at the fixture globe to find out if it has screws securing it to the fixture or if it screws into the fixture.

2. Push up slightly on the globe and find the point where the globe feels loose. This is the midpoint between the globe resting on the fixture and the top of the globe touching the upper rim of the fixture. If the globe screws into the fixture, turn it counterclockwise with both hands once you find the midpoint.

3. Apply liquid dish soap to an old toothbrush and brush the seam between the globe and fixture with the toothbrush, if you have a screw-on globe that is stuck. Push the globe up and down slowly to work the dish soap into the threads of the globe. Find the midpoint and turn the globe counterclockwise. Gently lower the globe away from the fixture.

4. Turn the screws securing the globe counterclockwise with your fingers while holding the globe at the midpoint position. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to loosen the screws if they seem difficult to turn by hand.

5. Loosen all three screws, if your globe uses the screws. Carefully lower the globe away from the fixture.

Tags: from fixture, attempt remove, away from, away from fixture, between globe, ceiling fixture

Hang An Acoustic Tongue & Groove Ceiling

There is a variety of acoustic ceiling tile profiles.

Acoustic ceiling tiles with tongue-and-groove construction quiet sounds from above the room. Tongue-and-groove ceiling tiles easily connect and are fastened to the ceiling with a grid of 1-by-3-inch furring strips. Attaching the tongue-and-groove tiles to furring strips creates a small, sound-deadening zone between the new and old ceilings. The furring strips also level and cover imperfections in the old ceiling.

Instructions

1. Measuring the room's length in feet and inches helps planning the ceiling tile installation for a balanced appearance. Add 12 inches to the inch measurement. For example, if the room is 8 feet, 4 inches long, add 12 inches to the 4 inches for a total of 16 inches. Divide the inch measurement by two. The border along this example room would therefore be 8 inches. Repeat the process for the room's width.

2. Locate the ceiling joists with a stud finder. Mark the joists' location.

3. Install a row of 1-by-3-inch furring strips along the wall that runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Using a carpenter's level, check that the furring strips are level. Adding wood shims if necessary provides a level suspension surface for the tongue-and-groove tiles. Secure the furring strip to each of the joists with two two-penny nails or two 2-inch screws. Cut furring strips, as necessary, with a circular saw. Butt the strip ends together, securing the secure ends to the ceiling joists.

4. Start the second row of furring strips parallel to the first row. Measure from the wall the amount you determined is needed for that wall the border and add one-half inch to that amount. Install that row of furring strips as you did the first row. Periodically check the level. Frequent measuring ensures the furring strip rows are parallel to each other.

5. Install the third row of furring strips 12 inches from the center of the second row using the same installation techniques. Continue hanging the rest of the furring strips in a similar manner. Avoid having butt joints align on the same ceiling joists.

6. Snap a chalk line on the second furring row strips at the border tile's dimension plus one-half inch. Carefully measure so that this line is exactly parallel to the wall. If necessary, resnap the line.

7. Measure the border tile's width on the wall without the furring strip plus one-half inch. Mark that amount on the chalk line and label it as point "A." Measure exactly 3 feet from point "A" on the chalk line and mark it as point "B." Measure 4 feet from point "A" and make an arc in the area where the border tiles will be installed. Measure exactly 5 feet from point "B" to where it intersects with the arc you just marked from point "A." Mark this location as point "C." Line up points "A" and "C" with your chalk line creating a 90-degree angle. This lets you install a square ceiling.

8. Measure a tile to fit the corner you just marked. Lay a straight-edge tool on top of the tile's grooved edge where you will cut. Drawing a utility knife along the strait-edge's side makes a clean, straight cut in the tile. If the wall is uneven, shave extra from the tile's edge. A one-quarter inch gap between the wall and the tiles around the room's perimeter is acceptable because molding covers it.

9. Attach the tile's tongue portion to the furring strip with four one-half inch staples

10. Measure and cut the tiles adjacent to the corner tile. Slide the tiles firmly together and staple them in place. Add another border tile to each wall. Fit a full-sized tile into the corner and fasten it with four staples.

11. Continue adding border tiles and full-sized tiles until you hang all the ceiling tiles. As you finish, cut off the tongue portion of the border tiles. Attach the sides of those tiles to the furring strips with nails placed close to the tiles' edges.

12. Measure and cut ceiling molding that covers the gap between the acoustic ceiling tiles and the wall. Attach the molding to the wall, not the tiles, with finishing nails placed every 24 inches into the studs.

Tags: furring strips, ceiling joists, ceiling tiles, chalk line, from point

Remove A Recessed Spotlight

Removing a recessed spotlight is not a difficult job, and can be done in about an hour with some basic tools. Occasionally, you may want to update the look of your home or change the lighting scheme altogether, requiring that you remove a recessed spotlight, along with the metal canister. The light socket on the top of the canister is wired to a junction box inside the ceiling next to the canister. You can remove the metal canister and wiring yourself to save time and money.

Instructions

1. Shut off the power to the spotlight by turning off the circuit breaker at the breaker box before attempting to remove the recessed spotlight. Unscrew the spotlight from the light socket, and set it out of the way.

2. Pry the trim away from the light fixture carefully with a flat head screwdriver, and set it aside. Unfasten the clips holding the metal casing to the frame with a flat head screwdriver, and remove the metal casing.

3. Unfasten the screws that are holding the metal canister to the ceiling with a flat head screwdriver, and lift the canister up through the ceiling, setting it on the ceiling joist. Remove the screws on the cover of the metal junction box inside the ceiling next to the metal canister with a Phillips screwdriver and set the cover out of the way.

4. Remove the plastic wire connectors from the ends of the electrical wires, and take the armored cable wire out of the junction box. Pull the metal canister out of the ceiling, and discard the metal canister.

Tags: metal canister, flat head, flat head screwdriver, head screwdriver, with flat, with flat head, canister ceiling

Buy A Room Fan

Match the ceiling fan to the decor in the room.

A ceiling fan not only adds to the decor of the room, it also provides air circulation. When choosing a ceiling fan, several factors come into play. For a child's room, a more whimsical fan might work, while a sophisticated one would be appropriate for a dining room. Figure out how the space will be used and who will occupy the room along with other factors when purchasing ceiling fans.

Instructions

1. Consider the size of the room. A smaller ceiling room fan, such as 24 to 48 inches, may work for a bedroom or office from 40 to 140 square feet. Ample rooms such as living areas or two story entryways require a fan equal to the proportion of the room. Rooms from 200 to 450 square feet can accommodate ceiling fans with a blade span from 52 to 72 inches.

2. Match the ceiling fan to the decor of the rest of the room. Do not consider a contemporary fan for a room with traditional style furnishings. Ceiling fans come in a variety of colors and styles you can match to compliment the existing room style.

3. Choose if you need a light attached to the ceiling fan. The space you place the fan may require additional lighting which a ceiling fan with a light can provide. If you do not need the extra lighting, opt for a fan without the light.

4. Purchase either an indoor or outdoor ceiling fan. If placing the fan in an outdoor living space, purchase one acclimated for outdoor use. Placing an indoor only fan outside may damage or rust the inner workings.

Tags: ceiling decor, ceiling fans, decor room, from square, from square feet, Match ceiling, Match ceiling decor

Install A Suspended Ceiling Tile

Hide uneven ceilings with new ceiling tiles.

Brighten up any room or replace your dirty, water-stained ceiling tiles by installing new ones. If a ceiling is uneven, these tiles can hide the unevenness because they can be shimmed (thin piece of metal or wood is driven between two objects) to make the ceiling appear level. Installing ceiling tiles is time consuming, but not difficult.

Instructions

1. Measure both walls that run perpendicular to the floor joists. Mark the center of each wall with a pencil. Snap the chalk line between both marks so they cross each other on the ceiling.

2. Center a furring strip on the chalk line and secure the strip with drywall screws using a drill. Furring strips are either thin wood or metal strips to make installation surfaces that support finished surfaces in a room.

3. Space the remaining 1 x 3 inch furring strips as far apart as the visible width of the ceiling tiles, usually 12 inches.

4. Use a level to check for evenness across the furring strip grid. If uneven spots are discovered, loosen the screw and place a shim between the joist and the strip. Tighten the screw and check the level again. Adjust the shim as necessary by pushing it in or backing it out.

5. Start at the original chalk line and snap a new line every 12 inches.

6. Measure the space between the last chalk line and the wall. Cut the tiles, using a utility knife and straightedge, to fit the space, leaving a 1/4 inch gap between the wall and the tile. Leaving the gap means not having to cut tiles and also allows for easier maneuvering of the tile.

7. Staple the border tiles to the furring strips. On two of the walls, tiles can be stapled. On the other two walls, nail the edge of the tiles to the floor joists if possible.

8. Apply the full size tiles after the border tiles have been installed on two joining walls. Work out across the room trimming border tiles against the remaining walls. If a cut out is needed, put the tile in place and mark the edge of the cut.

9. Cut molding to fit snugly against the wall and ceiling. Nail it in place to cover the gaps between the tile and the wall.

Tags: ceiling tiles, chalk line, border tiles, floor joists, furring strip, furring strips

Make A Ceiling Canopy In A Cultural Hall

Velvet is a material that works best with a ceiling canopy in a cultural hall.

Cultural halls are found in museums, schools or historical buildings, Decorating a cultural hall might be a necessary task from time to time to commemorate special holidays, historical dates or receptions. Decorating a cultural hall can pose a big challenge because it confronts you with a large quantity of space to adorn and make festive. A ceiling canopy is an appropriate solution to this issue as it instantly transform the look and atmosphere of the hall, giving it a festive quality.

Instructions

1. Measure the length and width of your ceiling. Cut your fabric so that it is at least 6 feet longer and wider than the measurements of the ceiling. Choose fabric that people can't overlook easily in a space as large as a cultural hall, avoid more delicate fabrics like chiffon.

2. Spread the fabric out in front of you on a clean, flat surface, with the underside of the fabric facing upward. Cut a half-inch slit in the exact center of your fabric. Make another half-inch slit at the top right corner, 4 inches in from the edge. Repeat this step with the remaining three corners.

3. Cut five pieces of decorative cord, 3 feet in length. At the end of each cord, tie a small knot. Thread each piece of cord through the slits you've created, so that the knots are visible against the correct, front side of the fabric. Set your fabric aside.

4. Drill a hole in the exact center of the ceiling with a hand drill, standing carefully on a ladder. Since most cultural halls have high ceilings, you'll need to use an extension ladder or scaffolding. Screw in a 2-inch metal hook. Move your ladder to the far right corner of the ceiling. Drill a hole into the corner where the ceiling and wall meet. Repeat this step with the remaining three corners of the ceiling.

5. Move your ladder back to the center of the ceiling. Scoop up your fabric and drape it around your neck and shoulder. Tie the center cord from the center hook, securing it with a knot.

6. Move the ladder to the far right corner of the room, while grabbing the top right corner of the fabric. Tie the appropriate cord to this hook, securing it with a knot. Repeat this process with the remaining corners and your canopy will be hanging beautifully.

Tags: cultural hall, right corner, your fabric, Repeat this, with remaining

Clean Or Paint A Popcorn Ceiling

Popcorn ceiling

Popcorn ceilings in homes built after 1977 were made after the U.S. ban on asbestos in ceiling material, so while the ceilings might flake or peel, cleaning or painting them should not present a health risk. Only the lightest of touches, such as with a feather duster, works to remove cobwebs and dust without disturbing the texture. Any discoloration under these surface build-ups is only diminished effectively by painting the ceiling. With the right tools and preparation, a popcorn ceiling is sealed and painted without knocking off any of the texture.

Instructions

1. Remove all furniture from the room or move it all to the center of the room.

2. Mask off any wood ceiling trim or molding with plastic tarp and painter's tape to keep the spray paint off of these areas. Apply one edge of the painter's tape along the edge of the trim or molding that connects to the ceiling, then stick the edge of a thin plastic tarp to the free edge of the tape so the tarp drapes down and protects the trim and upper walls. Lay tarps on the floor from wall to wall to protect the floor; any furniture left in the room should be covered.

3. Load the paint sprayer with ceiling paint according to manufacturer's instructions. Spray a little on a piece of scrap newspaper to test the sprayer. Adjust the spray nozzle to allow the best control over the stream of paint.

4. Position the ladder at the chosen starting place.

5. Put on the painting respirator and other protective gear.

6. Climb to a safe height on the ladder and spray the paint onto the ceiling in short, back and forth motions until the desired coverage is achieved. Allow the paint to dry completely.

7. Apply a second coat of paint after the first is dry, if desired, to ensure even coverage.

Tags: painter tape, plastic tarp, spray paint, trim molding

Hook Up Home Stereo Speakers With A Mixer

Connect the mixer to an amplifier, which is then wired to the speakers.

A stereo mixer must be hooked up to at least two powered speakers to produce an audio signal from the components attached to the mixer, such as turntables, a tape deck or CD player. The speakers must be attached to an amplifier to power the sound and produce an audible volume, since the mixer only adjusts audio signals; it does not amplify them. With a stereo cable and speaker wire, the connections can be made in just a few minutes.

Instructions

1. Insert the audio plugs from one end of the stereo cable into the Main OUT jacks on the top control panel or back edge of the mixer. Plug the white cable into the left jack and the red cable into the right.

2. Connect the two plugs on the other end to the amplifier's audio input jacks, matching white to left and red to right to avoid crossing the stereo signal.

3. Cut two speaker wires long enough to connect from the pair of stereo speakers to the amp; then peel off 1/2 inch of plastic shielding from the two strands on each end to expose bare wires (make sure all of the equipment is unplugged from electrical sources when handling exposed wire). Twist together the strands of the same colored wires to form two solid wire bundles at each end of the speaker wire.

4. Connect the two bundles on one end of a speaker wire to the positive and negative terminals on the back of the left speaker. The two wires will typically be two different colors. Pick one color to connect to the positive terminal and use the other wire for the negative connection. Attach the two strands on the other end to the amplifier's left audio channel; then connect the right speaker to the amp in the same manner.

5. Plug in the amplifier's electrical cord to a wall outlet and turn on the mixer.

Tags: cable into, speaker wire, other amplifier, speaker wires, stereo cable

Paint A Ceiling With Drywall Mud

Drywall mud, also known as drywall joint compound, not only repairs cracks in drywall but also provides a great compound for creating texture on a ceiling. The mud comes in sacks of 20 or 25 lb. Follow the mixing instructions on the joint compound to ensure that the compound dries in a reasonable amount of time and provides a proper surface for future painting, if desired.

Instructions

1. Clear the room of all furniture. This prevents accidental drips of joint compound onto the furniture.

2. Mix the drywall joint compound with water inside a bucket according to the instructions on the package. Using a mixer attachment on a drill to mix the joint compound saves time and effort.

3. Climb a ladder and use the straight-edged float to quickly skim the joint compound onto the ceiling. Cover a section about three feet by three feet so the texture can be applied before the mud dries. Drywall mud dries quickly. At room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit), a section that size will dry in about 20 minutes. If you think you can't complete the texture within that amount of time, work on a smaller area.

4. Run an old paintbrush or other texturing tool over the wet drywall mud to create texture. You can use your fingers to make interesting curves in the texture. Do this promptly, because once the mud dries, you can't change the texture without removing the dried mud and starting over.

5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until the entire ceiling is covered.

Tags: joint compound, amount time, compound onto, drywall joint, drywall joint compound, joint compound onto, three feet

Make Decorative Fan Pulls

Make your own decorative fan pull to spice up a boring standard one.

Embellish a boring ceiling fan pull with charms from bracelets, large earrings, brooches, colorful buttons and other whimsical trinkets. You can also find glass and wood beads and assorted charms at various craft shops. Making a decorative ceiling fan pull takes creativity and about an hour. The end result is something personalized and stylish that can also be practical, since you can extend the fan pull's length and make it easier to reach.

Instructions

1. Use the wire clippers to cut off 1 inch of the existing fan pull so you can take it to a craft store and get a bead chain that is the same width.

2. Figure out how long you want the decorative fan pull to be. If you want to decorate most of the fan pull, snip off the existing chain with wire clippers, leaving 4 inches behind. For example, if you want to use beads to decorate most of a 20-inch pull, snip off 16 inches and cut the new bead chain to 16 inches.

3. Attach the metal chain crimp end to one end of the new bead chain so the beads don't slide off. Use the chain-nose pliers to squeeze the crimp end's middle segment onto the end of the bead chain and secure everything in place.

4. Decide whether you want to use glass or wood beads and thread these onto the new chain. Get creative and create color patterns or use beads of various sizes and shapes.

5. Attach the new decorated chain to what is left of the existing chain on the fan. Grab a bead-chain clasp and snap the bottom of the existing 4-inch chain into one end and the top of the new decorated chain into the other end. Use the clasp from the original ceiling fan pull.

6. Consider adding a large glass or metal charm to the bottom of the new ceiling fan pull. Use the chain-nose pliers to open a metal jump ring. Insert the loop in the crimp end and the loop at the top of the charm into the jump ring. Use the pliers to close the jump ring, thereby connecting the charm to the decorative chain.

Tags: bead chain, ceiling pull, jump ring, chain into, chain-nose pliers

Hampton Bay Littleton Fans Instructions

Hampton Bay is a lighting fixture brand sold exclusively by home improvement chain Home Depot. The Hampton Bay line includes furniture, light fixtures and ceiling fans. One of the ceiling fans, the Littleton, is a 42-inch, four-blade interior ceiling fan that is white with reversible white and bleached oak fan blades, designed to cool a 10-by-10 foot room. You can connect a Hampton Bay Littleton ceiling fan in a short amount of time using the supplied parts and some common hand tools.

Instructions

1. Confirm that all the items you need are in the box: four ceiling fan blades, one mounting plate, one fan motor assembly, one motor housing, four blade brackets, one glass shade, one pull chain with fob, 19 screws, two lock washers, two metal washers, three plastic wire connecting nuts and 13 fiber washers.

2. Turn the power off to the electrical outlet box that the fan will be attached to.

3. Attach the mounting plate to the outlet box with a pair of screws and washers, using a slotted screwdriver while standing on a stepladder. Verify that the mounting plate is level and secured to the ceiling. Adjust the level with additional washers if necessary.

4. Lift the fan's motor assembly to insert the motor housing plate's "T" section into the mounting plate slot.

5. Attach the safety cable to the ceiling joist with a screw and a washer using an adjustable wrench.

6. Connect the black wire, which is the fan supply wire, and the blue wire, which is the light supply wire, to the black household power supply wire. Trim using wire cutters if necessary.

7. Attach the white wire from the fan (neutral wire) to the white household neutral wire.

8. Connect the fan's green wires, which are ground wires found on the mounting plate and motor, to the household green ground wire.

9. Move the motor assembly into position under the mounting bracket and attach it with screws.

10. Lift the housing onto the mounting plate by aligning the screw holes, then attaching with screws.

11. Attach a fan blade to a blade arm with a screw going into the blade arm, using a Phillips screwdriver. Do not tighten yet. Attach two additional screws in the same manner. Repeat for the remaining fan blades and blade arms.

12. Tighten each screw securely, beginning with the center screw and confirming that the blade is straight. Repeat for the remaining two outer screws, then for the other three fan blade and blade arms.

13. Insert the blade arm tabs into the slots on the bottom of the motor housing. Tighten with screws and washers to attach each blade arm to the motor.

14. Insert a light bulb (60 watts recommended).

15. Place the glass shade over the light bulb onto the light fixture by slightly unscrewing the thumbscrews that hold the shade in place. Secure the glass shade and tighten the thumbscrews until the shade is secure.

16. Reconnect the power to the electrical outlet box and turn on the fan to confirm that it is functional.

Tags: mounting plate, with screws, glass shade, motor assembly, motor housing

Does It Cost More To Have Vaulted Ceilings In A House

Vaulted ceilings add a sense of space to a room, by adding height.

Vaulted ceilings entail designs that rise up in an incline and exceed the standard 8 foot height. Cathedral ceilings angle upward and meet in the center, while cove ceilings ascend upward in a curve. You may like vaulted ceilings because they add a sense of space and light to a room, turning an ordinary space into something more impressive. By extension, rooms with this design also convey a sense of wealth. Because vaulted ceilings are more expensive, they provide a corresponding sense of extravagance.

Building Cost

Vaulted ceilings cost more to build because they require more building materials and more labor. Larger ceilings can create a steeper roof line. This increases the square footage of your roof and translates to a more expensive roof. Vaulted ceilings can also require special insulation, more beams and non-standard framing material -- all of which are more costly. The actual amount you can plan to pay for vaulted ceilings depends on your building location and contractors.

Resale Cost

In a two-story home with vaulted ceilings on the first floor, the square footage of the second floor is reduced by the added ceiling space on the first floor. Meaning, your house will have less living space, even if it is not actually smaller. In addition, sometimes the layout of a home with vaulted ceilings can cause that home to take up more space on the lot, even though the end result is less living space than a home without vaulted ceilings. This reduces the amount of usable yard on the lot. These factors may deter some buyers or may be reflected in the resale cost of your home. A reduced resale cost may be avoided by targeting homebuyers who want vaulted ceilings. Many homebuyers consider vaulted ceilings to be an amenity. By advertising vaulted ceilings in your home listing, you have a greater likelihood of drawing buyers who seek out vaulted ceilings and would pay for the benefit.

Heating and Cooling

Heating a home with vaulted ceilings can be a challenge. Heating these homes can be inefficient because heat rises. In the winter, the spaces that heat up first are in the ceiling area, leaving the lower parts of the room to warm up only after the heating system has run for longer than it would have otherwise. Cooling a house with high ceilings may be less of a challenge because the floor space of a room will cool off first. The actual additional cost of heating a home with vaulted ceilings will depend on your heating system, how well your house is insulated and the climate where you live.

Painting

Painting a vaulted ceiling, depending on the rise and the height of the ceiling, costs. Even just painting the walls without the ceiling costs more because the walls are higher. Painting the room yourself saves you some money. You still need more paint to cover a vaulted ceiling than you would need in a room with flat ceilings, and you need special painting tools to cover the higher, hard-to-reach areas. Painting a steep ceiling also takes more time. If you wish to pay professionals to do this job for you, the actual cost will vary. Call contractors in your area for quotes.

Maintenance

Cleaning, changing a light bulb and even just getting down a stray helium balloon -- all these activities become more challenging when the ceilings of a room are vaulted. You may need to buy special equipment such as taller ladders and special cleaning tools to help you maintain your ceilings.

Tags: vaulted ceilings, home with, home with vaulted, vaulted ceilings, with vaulted, with vaulted ceilings, because they

Hang Drywall On A Slanted Ceiling

Hanging drywall on a slanted ceiling gives depth to the room. With the right tools and moderate knowledge of construction, hanging drywall on a slanted ceiling can be a simple process. Doing this project yourself can save you a lot of money. If you need help with this project, ask your local hardware store for advice or a local contractor.

Instructions

1. Locate the studs in the ceiling. Standing on a ladder with a helper holding the base, use the stud finder to find the studs in your ceiling. Mark where the studs are on the wall with a pencil.

2. Measure the ceiling with the tape measure to see how much drywall you will need.

3. Start hanging drywall from the highest part of the slanted ceiling. Have your helper assist you in carrying the drywall up the ladder. Start attaching the drywall to the slanted ceiling using the drywall screws, the drill, and the drywall bit. The drywall bit allows you to countersink the drywall screws so you can cover them up to where they won't be seen.

4. Stagger the full sheets of drywall. Stagger means to never run one continuous joint or seam because it is very hard to cover. To stagger you must put one sheet of drywall on the far corner of the slanted ceiling, then take the next sheet and measure four feet from the sheet you just hung. Mark it with a pencil. Run the next sheet from that mark out and that will give you a four-foot stagger so the seams will not run together.

5. Measure the empty space in the ceiling that the full sheets of drywall you have hung so far do not cover. Measure the scrap drywall, cut it using the carpenter's knife and fill in the rest of the ceiling with the scrap drywall. Use the drill, the drywall screws, and the drywall bit to attach the drywall.

6. Tape all of the seams using the drywall tape. Use the joint compound and the trowel to mud all the seams. Let it set up for three hours. Sand lightly with the sandpaper. Repeat the mud and the sanding two more times. After it's nice and smooth and you are happy with it, you can prime and paint.

Tags: drywall screws, slanted ceiling, ceiling with, drill drywall, drywall slanted, drywall slanted ceiling, full sheets

Apply Plaster To Ceilings

A plastered ceiling in the works.

Applying plaster on a ceiling can be a messy endeavor, however, virtually anyone can complete the task. Depending on your desired look, there are many ways in which plaster can be applied. The most common is to have it sprayed on, however, that's for another discussion. Here we will cover apply plaster on a ceiling the old-fashioned way: with a trowel and putty knife. Here's a few tips.

Instructions

Apply Plaster to Ceilings

1. Cover your floor and furniture with a drop cloth or plastic to ensure the area below does not become caked with plaster or dust. Have a vacuum handy and periodically suck up dust and debris.

2. Tape the wall / ceiling seams. You don't want plaster getting on your walls. To make sure this doesn't happen, simply apply a run of masking tape around the perimeter of the walls. The top of the tape should be level with the ceiling.

3. Inspect your ceiling to make sure the drywall or plywood is smooth. If it is not, lightly sand rough spots. When your ceiling is cleaned of debris, cover any joints with drywall tape to cover them. Failing to seal joints will result in gaps and bumps in the plaster, possibly causing it to flake and fall.

4. Secure the ceiling joints. To accomplish this, apply a thin coat of joint compound over the tape with a putty knife, overlapping it by 1 inch. After it is dry, sand away any rough spots. Once it is smooth, cover it again with a think layer of the plaster you intend to use on your ceiling.

5. Begin covering your ceiling. With a standard plastering trowel, begin applying the plaster. Keep in mind, that you will want your ceiling's texture to look uniform, even if you desire a hodge-podge look. Even abstract applications have some uniformity. It is, therefore, important to start in a corner and work your way left to right. Pay close attention to the thickness of the plaster once it is applied. It is easier to apply plaster thinly rather than cake it on and try to spread it. Take you time. When have covered the entire surface of the ceiling. Allow the plaster to completely dry before sanding rough spots and filling in depressions.

Tags: your ceiling, rough spots, apply plaster, Apply Plaster Ceilings, make sure

The Best Way To Insulate A Basement Ceiling

Your basement ceiling can be insulated like other areas.

The United States Department of Energy does not recommend insulating your basement ceiling as a way to save on home energy costs. However, if you have taken care of all other home improvement and insulating projects around your home and are looking for a new project, insulating your basement ceiling will not hurt your home and could have some benefit. The process will vary depending on the type of ceiling you have and what's inside the ceiling, but there are guidelines.

Instructions

1. Put on a face mask, goggles and heavy work gloves to protect yourself throughout the insulation process.

2. Use a stepladder and remove the ceiling panels within your basement ceiling. You should be able to lift the panels, turn them on their sides a bit and lift them down.

3. Inspect the amount of maneuvering you'll have to do with the batts of insulation. Some things you might have to move around in a basement ceiling include wires, cross bracing and pipes.

4. Lift the batts of insulation one at a time into the ceiling. These batts can come in long strips or square pieces. You may have to cut the batts with a utility knife to fit them around obstacles in the ceiling.

5. Staple the batts of insulation to the joists within the basement ceiling to secure them in place. Put enough staples so that none of the insulation is dropping or sagging.

6. Replace each ceiling panel once the insulation is all in place.

Tags: basement ceiling, batts insulation, your basement, your basement ceiling, basement ceiling

How Much Money Does The Federal Government Spend On Abortions Each Year

With the current cost of healthcare and the economic downturn of 2008, many people are left wondering how they're going to cover the cost of everyday and emergency healthcare, which sometimes may include the possibility of an abortion. The total government funding for legal abortions originates in healthcare policies and coverage, current Medicaid laws and government support and funding for private clinics that cater to women's reproductive health.

Identification

In 2007, the estimated number of legal abortions performed in the United States was estimated to be around 1.37 million. Ninety percent of these abortions were performed in the first trimester, and the other 10 percent were performed in the second and third trimesters. The National Coalition of Abortion providers estimates that the average cost of an abortion performed in the first trimester is around $350, while the average cost of a second trimester abortion grows to about $2,500. The research group Alan Guttmacher Institute (AGI) estimated that the total annual cost of all abortions performed in the United States is around $980 million. While most abortions are done in private clinics and are not covered by government funding, there are a few government grants and contracts provided to abortion clinics. Planned Parenthood, for example, receives about $270 million annually from government funded grants (see Resources below).

History

Abortions have been performed for many centuries before there were any legal repercussions involved. In the late 1800s, abortions were performed by non-traditionally trained women healers. In 1803, Britain passed an antiabortion law and individual states in the United States began to follow suit. By 1880, most of the United States had banned abortion and it stayed this way well into the twentieth century. By 1970, some states began to amend the antiabortion laws and several private organizations began to aide women in covering the high costs of these abortions with loans and other services. After the Supreme Court legalized abortions in 1973, Medicaid covered its costs for eligible women. In 1977, the Hyde Amendment (see Resources) banned Medicaid funding for abortions unless a woman's life was in danger.

Considerations

Seventeen states fund abortions at the state level. While Medicaid is a federally funded health insurance program that funds legal abortions when the mother's health is at risk, it is estimated that only 1 in 5 Medicaid-eligible women receive this funding. Government aid for abortion procedures aside, there is still the issue of government funding for the teaching of abortion procedures. It has been estimated that 12 percent of the OB/GYN residency programs in the United States train in first-trimester abortions, and an even smaller percentage, only 7 percent, train their residents in second-trimester abortions.

Effects

Because of the raw debate over the morality of abortion, government funding has been slow coming and limited. Limited government funding for legal abortion procedures has had a greater impact on poor women, women of color and young women. Experts believe that those women who cannot afford the high cost of private abortions run the greatest risks when it comes to the dangers of illegal and self-aborting procedures. Even with the legalization of abortion in 1973, 75 percent of women that year obtained illegal abortions from unlicensed practitioners or by self-aborting. Ninety percent of the legal abortions performed in the United States that year were done on white upper-class patients.

Theories/Speculation

Many people point out that legalized abortion means very little without proper funding. The necessity of abortions has not decreased since it has been legalized, and many women, especially poor and young women, find themselves self-aborting because they cannot afford to pay for a safe and legal abortion. Without proper government funding, women resort to dangerous and often fatal methods of abortion, which oftentimes don't even work. When self-aborting techniques do not work, women are often forced to seek expensive medical treatment anyway.

Tags: government funding, United States, legal abortions, abortion procedures, abortions performed

Ceiling Paint Color Ideas

Ceilings don't have to be white.

White ceilings are often considered standard because they can help a room feel larger and brighter, but that doesn't mean they are mandatory. If you are considering a new color for your ceiling, remember that while you can use standard wall paint, specialized ceiling paint may be easier to apply because it is thicker and will drip less as you apply it. Ceiling paint is tintable like wall paint, so don't hesitate to ask for it in your favorite color.

Coordinated Colors

Look at the color swatch you've chosen for your wall color. If it is on a card with multiple shades of the same color, choose the paint color that is two to three shades lighter than your wall color for the ceiling. If your wall paint swatch was on a stand-alone card or if you no longer have the swatch, try to stay in the same color family and again go two to three shades lighter. Depending on the size of your room and the amount of light it gets, you may be able to go a bit darker with your ceiling color. For large rooms with a lot of natural light or high ceilings, choose a color that is just a shade or two lighter than a vibrant accent wall for your ceiling. For smaller rooms, go several shades lighter than an accent wall or one to two shades lighter than more neutral walls to allow light to reflect off the ceiling for a brighter room.

Continuous Color

Even if your room color is dark, painting the ceiling the same color of the walls can make the room seem larger, particularly for small spaces such as bathrooms, because the walls and ceiling aren't differentiated. This makes the space seem more continuous. For larger rooms with deep or vibrant colors, consider painting the ceiling and walls all the same color, such as a bright salmon or ocean-inspired blue, then add bright white crown molding, baseboards and trim to add vibrancy to the room and break up the color a little bit.

Light But Not White

If you like the idea of a bright, light room but just aren't feeling up for plain white, there are a variety of nearly white colors that will add a bit of life to your room without straying too far from neutral. For rooms with warm colors, such as shades of red, orange, yellow or brown, use ivory or a creamy light yellow. For cool-colored rooms, such as those painted in shades of green, blue and purple, use a light gray that is slightly tinted toward the room's main color. If your room is white and you want a ceiling color that is light but slightly tinted, choose a tint that coordinates with your other decor, such as couches, bedding or countertops.

Tags: lighter than, same color, shades lighter, your room, color that, rooms with, shades lighter than

Calculate Angle For Crown Molding In A Cathedral Ceiling

A compound angle is shown with crown molding installed.

Crown molding is being used more today than ever before. It is seen in the design of homes, offices, and many commercial buildings. There is no need to limit the use of crown molding due to unusual angles or vaulted ceilings. Decorative moldings are being used both alone or as built-up moldings -- one molding with another one next to it or on top of it. This adds depth to the design, whether for baseboard or crown molding. The cutting techniques remain the same for both.

Instructions

1. Fit a small sample piece of the crown molding in place along the ceiling. Mark the ceiling along the edge of the sample piece. Measure the distance from the wall to that mark; now mark that same distance on the base of the miter saw, measuring out from the fence. Make a line on both the saw and the ceiling. This will keep the crown molding's angle constant.

2. Measure the angle to be cut with the protractor. The actual cut will be made at half of the angle measured. The miter saws have a solid base and fence to hold the molding. The base will serve as the ceiling and the fence as the wall. This means that the cuts will be made with the molding upside down or ceiling side down.

For a cathedral ceiling picture cutting a four by four turned ceiling side down. The cut will be made using the tilt setting of the saw blade. For flat ceilings the miter setting will be used.

3. Adjust the saw to half the measured angle. Place a sample piece of the crown molding on the saw with the ceiling side down and held along the pencil line. Cut this sample piece and check its accuracy, making adjustments if necessary.

4. Cut the crown molding. Using the finishing hammer and nails, fasten it in place. Use a small amount of wood glue in the seam to prevent the molding from shifting.

5. Measure the next piece to be cut using the same method. Continue until the area is completed.

Tags: crown molding, sample piece, ceiling side, ceiling side down, side down

Clean Cat Fur From A House

Cats on a healthy diet do not shed as often or as much as other cats.

Cat fur is lightweight and relatively short, so after it leaves your cat's coat it can spread all over your house. Pet owners must clean fur off floors, furniture and clothing to avoid having dirty homes. Cats that go outside can shed some dead fur daily, and they shed in the spring and autumn to prepare for weather changes. Cats that live inside are not exposed to the weather, so they can continue to shed profusely throughout the year. Pet owners, therefore, have to maintain a regular cleaning schedule to remove cat fur.

Instructions

1. Dust your home with the feather duster. Alternatively, use a commercially available handheld duster with a microfiber dusting cloth; its makers claim that it traps all dust, dirt and allergens. Clean cat fur off tables, mirrors, ceiling fans, desks and other flat, hard surfaces. Dust in small spaces where cat fur can get caught. Clean fur from cupboards, shelves and window frames with the duster. Dust any textured ceilings and ceiling fans that have collected cat fur.

2. Sweep hard floors with the broom. Look in corners, under cupboards and under furniture, and sweep out any balls of fur. Remove cobwebs where fur may be caught with the broom. Vacuum carpets and rugs. Fasten attachments to the vacuum cleaner and vacuum out any small spaces. Vacuum the edges of rooms and around baseboards.

3. Remove fur from cloth surfaces with the pet hair roller. With the roller, clean off fur on couches, upholstered chairs, tablecloths, pillows and clothing. Remove fur from cat beds, cloth toys and scratching posts.

4. Don the rubber glove. Wet the outside of the glove and shake your hand rapidly to remove any excess water. Hold the trash bag in your other hand. Wipe furniture and small areas where only your hand will fit with the damp glove. Place the fur you collect in the trash bag after each wiping motion.

Tags: Cats that, ceiling fans, Remove from, small spaces, where caught, with broom

How Are Radiant Heat Hot Water Pipes Held In Ceilings

Radiant Heat

The idea of radiant heat is a fairly simplistic one. If one hot object is placed next to another object (let's say a cup full of hot coffee placed on a table), then the heat will transfer from the hotter object to the cooler object. This is the concept behind radiant heat water pipes. If water is heated, and that hot water is run through pipes in the walls/floor/ceiling of a room, then the heat from the pipes will radiate into the room and heat first the objects, and then the air. While this system tends to work best when installed in a floor, it's not unusual for people to use radiant water pipes in a ceiling.

Installation

When radiant heat water pipes are installed in a ceiling, there are a variety of steps that have to be taken. First the pipes must be installed so that they run through joists (or they're bracketed to joists) for support. Additionally, the pipes are often connected to panels which interlock to create a sort of heating grid. With ceiling heating systems in a two story hours, the pipes could be sandwiched between two layers of panels so that it's a ceiling heating system for the ground floor, and a floor heating system for the second floor. The entire assembly has to be supported, and the floor/ceiling joists must provide that support.

Drawbacks

Radiant heat water pipes that go through the ceiling may not be the best bet for many homeowners. Because heat rises, the radiant heat must be enough that it reaches down to heat a room, which requires a bigger output of energy. Additionally, pipes in the ceiling have to be run up through the walls as well, whereas pipes in the floor requires less pipe to run the water, and their support is easier to take care of. Lastly, radiant heat water pipes in the ceiling will be almost completely ineffective in rooms with high ceilings, or in domed ceilings.

Tags: water pipes, heat water pipes, pipes ceiling, radiant heat water, Additionally pipes, ceiling heating

Calculate Grid

Create a grid with a spreadsheet or a pencil.

Graphs and grids show data in visual form. It's easier to compare numbers and understand the relationships between them when they are plotted on a grid. It's possible to draw grids with a ruler and pencil, but it's more usual now to create them in a spreadsheet.

Instructions

1. Enter your data points into the Excel spreadsheet.

2. Choose "Chart" from the "Insert" drop-down menu. A series of dialogue boxes will take you through formatting the graph. Click "Next" to select which kind of graph you want.

3. Choose line graph. Other choices of graph type include pie, bar and surface. These will not show your data on a grid.

4. Select row or column in the next dialogue box, depending on how you entered your original data.

5. Enter the coordinates of range of data you want to appear on your grid. Click "Next."

6. Select major grid lines if your data points are numerically far apart. Select major and minor grid lines if your data points are close together. Click whether to insert the graph in the current document or create a new document.

Tags: your data, data points, your data points, Click Next, grid lines, grid lines your, lines your

Reset Casablanca Ceiling Fans After A Power Outage

Programmable ceiling fans have a microprocessor to enable you to program the fan settings.

Casablanca's Inteli-Touch control system was the first computerized ceiling fan. The Inteli-Touch Casablanca fan control unit operates the fan speed and a full-range light dimmer with silent operation. Casablanca has nine series of fans with this technology. The fan has six variable speeds with "Fan Minder," which adjusts the fan speed automatically on cool nights while you sleep. The light has "Safe-Exit," allowing the light to stay on for 30 seconds after shutoff to give you time to exit the room safely. The Casablanca's Inteli-Touch also has a "Home-Safe" feature that turns the light on while you're away to make your home look occupied. If you forget to turn the light off when you leave, the light will turn off automatically after two hours, saving energy. Occasionally when you lose power during a power outage the microcomputer may need to be reset. When the power is returned to the fan, the control unit will go to the default settings or may be scrambled.

Instructions

1. Turn the power off to the fan to reset the control unit. Wait three seconds, then turn the power on to the fan. The control unit is now ready to program.

2. Press and release the "Light" button for less than one second to turn the light on and off for normal operation. The first touch of the button turns both lights on, the second touch of the button turns only the the down light on and the third touch turns only the up light on. Turn the light off to reset the brightness of the light. Press and hold the "Light" button; after one second the light will come on at the dimmest level. The light will gradually get brighter. When the light is at the desired brightness, release the "Light" button. The level of brightness will now be in the fan control unit memory, and the normal operation of the light will return. If you want the light brighter when you turn on the light, press and hold the button to increase the brightness.

3. Press and release the "Fan" button for less than one second for the fan to turn on to the programmed speed. With the fan off, press and hold the "Fan" button. The fan will turn on and gradually change speed. There are six speeds for the fan. Release the button when the fan is at the desired speed. The normal operation will return at the desired speed.

Tags: control unit, light will, Light button, normal operation, turn light

Wiring Instructions For A 52inch Ceiling Fan

Installing a ceiling fan is easier than it may seem.

Installing your first ceiling fan can be intimidating: these fixtures include far more components than a simple ceiling light.The good news is, for most models, the complexity comes into play down-circuit from the wiring install. This means the basic process of wiring a 52-inch ceiling fan is the same as wiring any other light fixture. However, different makes and models of 52-inch ceiling fans have different designs specifications. Always defer to the manufacturer's installation directions when installing this, or any other, fixture.

Instructions

1. Set up your ladder beneath the wiring harness in your ceiling. You may want a ladder that's taller than you need, so you can rest your fixture mount on the top while you install the wiring.

2. Turn off the power to the room at the fuse box.

3. Locate the black wire in your ceiling wiring. If it has less than a 1/2 inch of exposed wire at the end, strip off insulation using your wire stripper until it does. Do the same for the white wire and the ground wire.

4. Locate the black wire in your mounting fixture. Lay the exposed wiring of the mounting fixture black wire and the ceiling fixture black wire side by side. Place a wiring cap over them both and twist the cap until you've felt resistance for two to three full turns.

5. Repeat step four with the white wires in the ceiling and mounting fixtures.

6. Connect the ground wire. In some models, this is the same process as the other two wires. In others, you kink the ground wire and screw it to the metal of the fixture itself. Check with the manufacturer's instructions to confirm with your model.

7. Screw the mounting fixture to the wall using the hardware that came with your fan unit.

8. Hang the fan blades in place on your mounting fixture. Tighten down their screw mounts as directed in your manual.

9. Add any additional components as required.

Tags: black wire, mounting fixture, ground wire, 52-inch ceiling, black wire your

Decorate Your Home With Faux Tin Tiles

Adding metal tiles to this ceiling will re-create an Old World look.

Metal tiles give a room a special feeling reminiscent of the late 1800s and early 1900s. Ceilings of schoolhouses and commercial buildings of that era, as well as parlors in private homes, were covered with pressed metal squares. New materials that resemble old tin tiles are made of metal alloys, acrylic and plastic. You can buy the material in individual squares, ranging in size from 6 inches square to 6-foot squares, depending on how you want to use it. The design of these materials create a room focal point, so use faux tin tiles in places that you want to stand out.

Instructions

1. Use faux tin tiles in the kitchen in the backsplash area above counters. Cover an island bar exterior with these tiles for an artistic look. Add the tiles to the sides of an old cabinet for an interesting accent piece. Secure the tiles in place and add appropriate trim, such as wood or metal strips sold with the tile.

2. Install faux metal decorative squares, which come in gold, bronze, silver and many painted colors, on a ceiling 9 feet or higher. Paint the walls white or a neutral color, so the faux metal ceiling will gain more attention. Use this decorating technique in a laundry area, back entrance of a home, or the kitchen. Add ceiling fans, if you wish, to enhance the nostalgic look.

3. Add faux tin tiles on one wall of a bathroom, behind a pedestal sink or a clawfoot tub. Add the tiles sparingly, because a material that is not real metal will not have the upscale look of real metal. Incorporate these tiles into a room for decorative appeal, but add crown molding and high-quality light fixtures to make the room look high-end. Avoid buying faux metal tiles that are too shiny, or they will seem more like plastic sheeting.

4. Install these tiles on the walls of a walk-in closet to create a slick surface, so that delicate clothing on hanging rods will not get snagged. Add the tiles in sheeting, making sure you have no rough edges, so that blouses or sweaters placed on closet shelving will not snag. Install light gray or white faux tiles so lighting in the closet will reflect off the tile walls. Don't use darker hues of faux tiles, which will subdue all lighting.

5. Take advantage of the slick surface of faux tin tiles on the walls and ceiling of a kitchen pantry to make it user-friendly for moving canned goods around on shelving, and to make it easy to wipe down the walls from time to time. Add faux tiles with a metallic look to give the kitchen a vintage flavor. Hang an old print or two from the early 1900s inside the pantry on the back of the main door or over shelving.

Tags: faux tiles, faux metal, faux tiles, these tiles, ceiling will

Choose Recessed Lighting For A Bathroom

The lighting in your bathroom must serve several purposes, from general lighting overall to adjustable lighting around your makeup mirror. Recessed lighting can address these needs. Here's choose a model that will work in your bathroom.

Instructions

Decide Where You Need Light in your Bathroom

1. Study your bathroom at different times of the day and night to decide where you need to place lights.

2. Decide whether to use recessed lights only or a mix of recessed and other types of lighting.

3. Plan for recessed lights above the shower stall or tub to prevent accidents due to insufficient light.

4. Place recessed lights directly above the mirror or over the counter at vanity areas.

5. Use eyeball lights around the vanity to focus on your face and prevent shadows and glare.

6. Use focused lights to accent wall decor, if desired.

Choose Your Lights

7. Choose closed housings to prevent moisture from damaging the lights or causing a fire hazard.

8. Decide between fluorescent, HID and incandescent lights.

9. Choose trim to coordinate with the ceilings and the rest of the room.

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Use Greens & Golds For Interior Painting

Green and gold make a statement in interior decor.

Green and gold are a natural combination for decor, whether it's formal olive green with aged gold accents or the relaxing green of nature set off by flower-blossom yellow. Decide what level of formality you want in your decor, and choose shades that enhance it. Gold leaf might look out of place in a breezy, cheerful room, but it can fit right in with imposing architecture and leather-bound books. Focus on one shade as your primary tone and use the other to accent it. Repeat the tones in furnishings and accessories to tie the room together.

Instructions

1. Match the tones in your existing furnishings. Choose a cushion or fabric swatch that contains the green and gold tones you want to use in your room. Take it to a paint store and look for color chips that match your item. If none of the available colors is just right, many stores can mix custom colors to match your color scheme.

2. Ask for paint samples in the shades you have chosen. Some stores offer free samples, and others charge a nominal fee. If there are no samples available, purchase the smallest can available, usually a quart. Paint a 4-foot-square patch on the wall of your room and live with it for a couple of days, looking at it in natural light and artificial light at different times of day. The paint will very often look different on the wall than it does on a little color chip.

3. Paint the bottom third of the wall in warm gold and the rest of the wall in green. Install a chair rail where the two colors meet to create the appearance of custom wainscoting. If you have adjoining rooms, paint one green and the other in a complementary gold shade to create a visual distinction between the rooms.

4. Brush a light coat of metallic gold glaze over a ceiling medallion or other architectural feature to draw the eye with a subtle shimmer. Use metallic gold paint to accent finials, fireplace trim or picture frames. A little metallic paint goes a long way, so use it sparingly.

Tags: match your, metallic gold, want your, your room

The Best Way To Keep Your House Cool

Keeping a house cool in the summer can be a daunting task, especially for people living in the southwest and southeast of the United States. You don't cool a hot house with just a single fix. Rather, cooling a home requires attention to several details and the use of different components. The best way to cool a home is a multi-tiered approach, utilizing different methods to reduce energy use while keeping the home comfortable.

Instructions

1. Plant shrubs and small trees around your central air conditioning unit and exposed windows. The air conditioner should be shaded to help keep it cool but without choking out circulating air. Situate shrubs and small trees in front of windows exposed to the western sun.

2. Shade west-facing windows. The sun is at its hottest during the afternoon hours. Windows facing west let in excess solar heat to those rooms, and may cause the air conditioner to run longer and more often to adequately cool the home. Hang light and heat blocking shades inside your home, particularly on windows with a lot of western sun exposure.

3. Upgrade or re-insulate windows and doors. In addition, have a contractor inspect your duct work and ceiling insulation for wear. Blowing more insulation into the attic and repairing or replacing damaged duct work will make air conditioning more energy-efficient and keep the home cooler.

4. Use ceiling and portable fans to circulate air throughout the home. Also, install attic fans to reduce the ambient heat trapped in the attic, allowing the central air conditioner to work less hard to cool the home.