Driving lights provide additional light to improve safety.
Harley-Davidson equips some motorcycle models with driving lights, or the bikes may have light bars retrofitted. Driving lights generate almost as much light as the headlight, and project it forward and onto the road. The increased light output can contribute to safety, as the road conditions ahead are more visible to the rider, and the bike is more visible to other traffic. Driving lights can fail due to heavy use or vibration. Replacement of the light poses no difficulty and requires no special tools.
Instructions
1. Locate the trim bezel screw at the bottom of the light housing. Loosen and remove the trim bezel screw with a screwdriver. Remove the trim bezel from the light housing.
2. Slowly remove the driving light from the housing a few inches. Loosen the light wiring terminal screws with a screwdriver. Remove the wiring terminals from the light.
3. Hold the new driving light near the housing. Install the wiring terminals onto the new driving light and tighten the screws securely.
4. Gently push the new driving lamp into the housing. Install the trim bezel ring over the housing and driving light. Install and tighten the trim bezel screw securely with a screwdriver.
5. Loosen the trim bezel screw slightly and rotate the driving light to change the aim point of the driving light, if desired.
Tags: trim bezel, bezel screw, driving light, trim bezel screw, Driving lights, with screwdriver
Pink and brown make a fun and sophisticated color duo for bedroom decor. The sweetness of pink hues plays perfectly against earthy brown shades. Also, because the hues are so diverse, the room decor will please many people; a pink and brown color scheme is ideal for both males and females. Add a flirty touch by decorating with pink polka dots and brown stripes, or update your bed with a feminine pink floral quilt. Add a pop of pink to the room by displaying a vase of fresh orchids, carnations or roses.
Polka Dots and Stripes
Decorate your bedroom with polka dots and stripes, which is a contrasting design duo that works as well together as the pink and brown color combination. Buy a pink and white striped lamp shade, and tie a brown polka-dotted grosgrain ribbon around it for a sweet touch. Use a brown and white polka-dotted comforter or quilt, and accent it with fluffy pink striped pillows.
Shabby Chic Style
Design your bedroom with a shabby chic style, which looks both elegant and relaxed. Buy a vintage pink and brown damask rose-patterned quilt for your bed, and use white wicker bedroom furniture. Hang light pink and brown toile drapes from tall windows for an antique French look. Paint the walls a soft, powder pink, and set out antique brown glass vases filled with fresh-cut Old Blush roses or orchids.
Pink and Brown Ceiling Fan
Put an exciting twist on a classic bedroom item by painting a ceiling fan with pink and brown designs. Buy paints and stencils, and create patterns that match your bedroom's theme. Paint alternating pink and brown stripes, circles or hearts. As a creative, playful touch, paint a different design on each of the fan blades.
Pink and Brown Paisley Accessories
Decorate your personal space with pink and brown paisley items, such as picture frames and waste baskets; paisley is a sophisticated design that is enhanced by this color duo. Buy a solid pink or brown bed comforter or quilt, and a nightstand lamp featuring a pink and brown paisley shade. Hang paisley curtains and drapes to complete the look. Argyle is another pattern that looks great with the pink and brown color combination.
Tags: pink brown, pink brown, with pink, brown color, pink ,
Not only are the dark stains of water damage on your ceiling atrocious to look at, they can also be considerably dangerous, creating breeding grounds for mold that can harm your family and deteriorate your home. Water damage can result from a number of unfortunate incidents, including pipe leaks and flooding. Once you stop the water, get rid of the to make your home safe and presentable again.
Instructions
1. Ventilate the room that has the water damage occurred. Proper air flow into the room will help the ceiling dry and will also work to prevent mold buildup. Open windows and doors and install fans in the openings to bring in fresh air. Run exhaust fans, such as those in your bathroom and above your stove, to keep air flowing in the area.
2. Run at least one dehumidifier in the room. These machines, which you simply plug in and activate, work to draw excess moisture out of the air. This will help the ceiling dry quicker.
3. Run a dry sponge along the ceiling to help draw out the water. Squeeze out the sponge or replace it with a clean one as necessary while you work. Continue until the sponge removes no more water.
4. Remove ceiling tiles or panels, or inspect the flat ceiling surface to determine the extent of the damage. If necessary, discard tiles or panels that are completely soaked through or have already developed mold.
5. Clean the surface with a soft rag or sponge lightly dampened in a mixture of ¼ cup bleach in a quart of water. Use as little solution as possible so that you do not saturate the surface again. The bleach will help to kill mold spores.
6. Replace the sections of the ceiling you removed, if necessary. When you have a full ceiling again, paint the surface with a sealer designed for tile, wallboard or your specific ceiling surface. Some sealers include paint that will cover any remaining stains, or you can simply coat the ceiling in a clear protective coating. The sealer will prevent future water stains, and will also stop any remaining mold spores from penetrating the ceiling and spreading through your home.
Tags: water damage, will help, your home, ceiling surface, help ceiling
A ceiling without acoustical popcorn is easier to paint.
Acoustic ceilings, also known as cottage cheese or popcorn ceilings, once decorated only the most modern homes. They eliminated echoes and provided soundproofing. They've since become highly undesirable relics that darken rooms and call undue attention to themselves. Fortunately, you can hire professionals to remove these artifacts and replace them with a smooth surface.
Costs
According to the Cost Owl website, as of 2011, the price to remove an acoustic ceiling averages $1 to $2 a square foot, which puts the cost of a 15-by-15 foot space at $225 to $550. The job is simple enough for most homeowners to tackle. However, it can be messy and dirty, and the amount of dust may not be worth the cost savings. A home that was built in the 1970s or earlier may have asbestos in the ceiling. A self-test kit, costing about $10 to $20, can reveal the substance. If the popcorn contains asbestos, the price of removal goes up.
Painting
Most removal professionals will not repaint the ceiling, though this is something the homeowner can do. To cover a 15-by-15 foot space usually takes 1 or 2 gallons of paint, which costs between $40 to $100, depending on the paint quality and whether you're applying one or two coats. A professional will prep the ceiling by in filling cracks and holes, and fixing other problems. The surface will then be smoothed and sanded, as needed, and washed with soap and water. Painters charge from $20 to $45 an hour, putting the cost of painting the room ceiling at $150 to $450 for labor alone.
Plasterer Labor
The major part of removing an acoustic ceiling is labor, with wages that depend on location. As of May 2010, the Bureau of Labor Statistics lists the average wages of plasterers at a mean $19.75 for the country. However, pay went as low as $11.96 per hour for the lowest 10 percent and rose as high as $31.97 per hour for the upper 10 percent. The states with the highest rates were Connecticut at a mean $34.18 per hour and New York at a mean $30.93 per hour. For below-average wages, Arizona showed pay of $14.97 per hour while plasterers in New Mexico earned a mean $16.21.
Painter Labor
For painters, the Bureau of Labor Statistics shows a mean salary of $18.08 per hour, with lows at a mean $10.80 and highs at a mean $28.12. The highest wages were in Illinois at a mean $24.59 per hour, followed by Nevada at a mean $23.90 per hour. Lower rates were available in Florida at a mean $14.62 per hour and Texas at a mean $14.83 per hour.
Tags: mean hour, 15-by-15 foot, 15-by-15 foot space, Bureau Labor, Bureau Labor Statistics, ceiling labor
A globe ceiling lights is a type of light fixture that is commonly found in entry ways, hallways, closets and small bathrooms. Globes typically come in plastic and glass, and replacing one of these fixtures is a pretty easy task that takes approximately 20 minutes.
Instructions
1. Turn off the breaker that supplies power to the globe ceiling light. Do not simply rely on turning off the light switch; If the light is operated by a pull-chain switch, the lines will still have power even when the light is off. Always turn off the breaker to ensure safety.
2. Remove the globe. If the fixture has a plastic globe, there should be three or more bolts around the neck of the fixture that secure the globe in place. Loosen each bolt until you can pull the globe off.
If the globe is glass, then it might have a threaded neck that screws directly into the fixture. Turn the globe counter-clockwise to release it from the fixture.
3. Remove the light bulb.
4. Loosen the two screws that secure the fixture base to the mounting bracket. You do not have to remove them entirely. Just loosen them until the fixture is loose.
5. Turn the fixture slightly so the screw heads are aligned with the larger holes on the fixture base. Once aligned, the fixture can be pulled down.
6. Test the wires for voltage using a touch-type voltage tester before disconnecting them.
7. Disconnect the wires and remove the fixture.
8. Inspect the ceiling wires for signs of corrosion or damage. If necessary, use the wire strippers to cut away the exposed section of old wire and strip 3/4-inch of insulation from the ends of the wires for a fresh lead.
9. Connect the white wire from the ceiling to the white wire on the new light fixture using a wire connector. Connect the black ceiling wire to the black fixture wire using a wire connector. Connect the ceiling ground wire to the ground wire on the fixture (if it has one) using a wire connector.
10. Wrap electrical tape around each wire connector and stuff the wires back up into the ceiling box.
11. Align the fixture base with the two screw heads attached to the mounting bracket. When the screw heads are through the large holes, twist the fixture so the screw heads are in the thin channel. Tighten the screws to secure the fixture in place.
12. Install the light bulb and the globe as directed by the manufacturer.
13. Turn the breaker back on and test your installation by turning on the light switch.
Tags: screw heads, wire connector, fixture base, using wire, using wire connector, connector Connect,
Noise is unwanted sound. Ceiling noise is a reflection of sounds that may come back as an echo or mingle with other sound sources to produce a background of white noise. White noise is resultant background noise that comes from a mix or blend of all noise together, raising the overall background level. It is this sound that causes sleeplessness and reduces the quality of life. It is an insult to our environment and our senses. The prevention of begins with construction.
Instructions
1. Seal and/or caulk any ceiling openings. Look for vents and ducts and any open spaces on the perimeters. Noise can get through wherever there is an air leak. Close the gaps and make your ceiling air and noise tight.
2. Install flexible ducts for air and heat. Avoid metal, because it conducts sound from place to place. Use the flexible duct to reduce noise from the ceiling vents.
3. Insert resilient pads around ceiling pipes and pack insulation on pipes to avoid transfer of flushing toilets and running water. Especially pay attention to plastic (ABS) pipes. Provide foam insulation to avoid water hammer. Foam-type insulation can be sprayed into place and when dry will keep vibration to a minimum.
4. Install ceiling insulation. The same insulation for heating will work to exclude noise. However, if the ceiling is made from a flat, hard, reflective medium, it will reflect sound and increase your noise level. The bigger the room and the more people, the greater the sound level. The insulation keeps overhead aircraft noise out if you are near a jet port. Another step significantly reduces interior noise. Add acoustical tile on the ceiling to absorb and cancel noise. Then noise will not be reflected and mix with other noise sources to increase the ambient background.
5. Acoustical engineers can assist in designing a ceiling as part of your home theater or a speaker convention room where sound projection may be a positive addition. They support these designs by taking sound measurements both in amplitude and frequency. You may consider several designs for audio and visual properties before the final ceiling configuration. Many times these decisions are based on a trade-off between sound projection and visual acuity.
Tags: ceiling noise, noise from, sound projection, with other
Kitchen fans are often prone to dust and grease, both of which accumulate and create a dirty coating on fan blades. The fan over the stove is most likely to have a grease and dust buildup, simply because it is located directly over splattering foods year-round. Taking a few minutes to clean the fan will not only keep the home clean, but also reduce any potential for grease fires caused by the fan and grease buildup. For other ceiling fans in the kitchen, cleaning them regularly will improve the look of the room and bunnies from flying around once they fall off fan blades.
Instructions
Kitchen Exhaust Fan
1. Remove the cover to the fan. The grated mesh cover is located next to the light fixture in the stove hood unit. Some fan covers are easy to come off, simply pull the tab on the edge to unhinge the cover from the unit. For covers that are not removable, you will still be able to clean the grate to rid it of dust and grease.
2. Soak the grated cover in a water and ammonia solution. A 50-50 mixture will cut down grease for easy removal. Soak the cover in the solution for 20 minutes. Wear rubber gloves when scrubbing the grate to prevent grease getting on your hands. Rub the grate with a soft brush in a circular motion to remove any dirt and grease from the mesh cover thoroughly. For grates that are non-removable, soak a new sponge in a 50-50 solution, and wring it out before wiping down the grate. Dry with a clean cloth.
3. Wipe down the fan blades within the unit with the sponge. Place the sponge in the 50-50 solution, wring it out and gently wipe off the fan blades. Be careful not to get any water on the motor or electrical parts. Dry the clean blades off with your dry rag.
4. Allow the grate to air dry for a few hours before attaching back to the hood.
Ceiling Fan
5. Place a tarp on the area directly underneath the kitchen ceiling fan. This will prevent dust from coming off the blades and being ground into the carpet or getting around the room.
6. Position a step stool or ladder underneath the ceiling fan. It will need to be tall enough to allow you to reach the fan blades easily.
7. Wipe off any excess dust buildup with a dry, clean cloth. Try not to rub down onto the blades to firmly to prevent the dust from smearing on the blades. Simply scoop dust bunnies off of the fan, onto the tarp below.
8. Soak a brand new sponge in a new batch of the ammonia and water solution. This will cut any grease off of the blades and clean away left over dust. Wring out the sponge, and wipe down each blade. Soak and wring out the sponge as necessary to clean each blade.
9. Allow the blades to dry before turning them on. Turning them on while wet may cause them to attract dust.
Painting a room with a vaulted ceiling is quite easy.
Painting a room with a vaulted ceiling can seem like an insurmountable task, but with a little guidance, it becomes quite easy. While most people prefer to leave their ceiling white, sometimes homeowners prefer to paint the ceiling a shade or two lighter or darker than the walls themselves. Here's paint a room with a vaulted ceiling:
Instructions
1. First, prep the room for painting. Remove all furniture and clean the room thoroughly. Be sure to remove all cobwebs and dust from the floors, walls, windows and vaulted ceiling.
2. Cover the floor or carpet with large drop cloths. You can buy these at any home improvement or paint store.
3. Figure out if you can reach the and walls with a ladder. If you find that your ladder does not reach the area that needs to be painted, rent scaffolding and set it up in the room.
4. Assemble your brushes, rollers and paint all in one location. Open the paint and stir as necessary. Pour the paint into the paint tray(s).
5. Use the ladder to paint the edges and corners with a 3 inch wide brush. Feel free to use painters tape for straight edges and protect the molding if desired. If you plan to paint the vaulted ceiling, paint it first. You don't want the to drip on the walls after you've already painted them.
6. Paint the room with the roller brushes, using the extension as necessary. Start at one end of the room and work your way across to the other side. Make sure you apply the paint smoothly, without leaving drips or bubbles.
7. Decide if you need two coats (or more). Light colors may only need one coat if it is being applied over a light color. Darker colors usually require two or more coats. Most homeowners will apply two coats to ensure they have even paint coverage.
Tags: room with vaulted, vaulted ceiling, vaulted ceiling, with vaulted, ceiling paint, Painting room, Painting room with
Hanging a bed sets your room apart from ordinary bedrooms.
If you want to suspend a bed from a ceiling, safety is a top concern. This means you must use the correct fasteners to keep the chains bolted to the ceiling and to the bed frame. If not, you risk the bed falling with a person on it. When you suspend a bed from the ceiling, suspend it low enough that the user can easily get into the bed without using anything more than a small stepping stool.
Instructions
1. Locate the joists in the ceiling with an electronic stud finder and mark their locations on the ceiling. If you plan to hang a bed from chains on the ceiling, you must install the fasteners securely into the joists for support.
2. Measure the length and the width of the bed with a tape measure and transfer the measurement to the ceiling. Line up each corner of the bed with the joists in the ceiling, and place marks where you plan to install the fasteners.
3. Drill a 1/2-inch diameter pilot hole with an electric drill at each of the four locations to make it easier to install the fasteners, prevent cracking drywall and prevent splitting the joists.
4. Thread self-tapping eyebolts with a 1-inch diameter threaded shaft into each hole as far as you can with your fingers. Slide a screwdriver into the hole in the eyebolt and turn the screwdriver clockwise to thread the bolt into the hole the rest of the way.
5. Remove the mattress and box spring from the bed to expose the metal framing. Drill a 1/2-inch diameter hole into the framing at each corner with the electric drill.
6. Place 1/2-inch eyebolts with machine screw-style shafts into the hole and secure them with 1/2-inch nuts. Keep the nuts in place with a wrench while tightening the eyebolts.
7. Cut four pieces of chain rated to to hold 5,000-pounds to the desired length with bolt cutters.
8. Attach the chains to the eyebolts in the ceiling with S-hooks, and attach the chain to the eyebolts on the bed with S-hooks.
9. Place the box spring and mattress back onto the bed frame.
Tags: eyebolts with, install fasteners, into hole, 2-inch diameter, ceiling with, corner with
Removing tiles for electrical repairs can sometimes damage them.
Drop-down ceilings give a finished appearance without sealing off household wiring or heating and air ducts, and they are less challenging than hanging heavy drywall over your head. If you have a damaged ceiling tile, replacing it is quite simple. Tiles around the perimeter of the room might be smaller than full tiles, and some have lipped edges. You can replace one with simple tools or possibly no tools at all. If your ceiling was installed before 1980, ask an abatement contractor to inspect the materials before replacing a tile; the old ones could contain asbestos.
Instructions
Replacing a Full Tile
1. Push the old tile up to lift it off the frame. If the ceiling is painted, the tile might stick to the frame. Slide the blade of a utility knife between the frame and the tile to break the paint seal, if necessary.
2. Tilt the tile inside the ceiling space, letting shorter end pass straight down through the frame opening. Lower the tile and set it aside.
3. Push the shorter end of a new tile up through the opening.
4. Align the tile with the frame and set one short end on a short ledge. Hold the opposite end of the tile off the ledge. Lower the remainder of the tile into position on the ledge.
5. Tap up on any edge that doesn't seat properly on the ledge; let it fall down into position. Gentle jostling is usually all that is needed to help a misaligned ceiling tile rest fully on the frame ledge.
Replacing a Cut Tile
6. Measure a long and short side of the frame opening.
7. Measure a long and short side of a new ceiling tile. Mark the tile to match the frame measurements plus 3/8 inch.
8. Set a framing square on the edge of the tile. Align the angle of the square with the mark on the side of the tile. Trace the arm of the square across the tile with a pencil to make a straight cutting mark. Repeat at the mark on the perpendicular edge, if applicable.
9. Cut through the tile along the lines using a utility knife.
10. Raise one end of the tile through the frame opening, adjust it over the frame inside the ceiling space and lower it onto the ledge.
Shaping a Lipped Edge
11. Set the L-shaped edge that you trimmed off the full tile onto the edge of the cut tile with the lip of the L resting on top. Trace the edge of the lip onto the tile to make a straight cutting line 3/8 inch in from the edge.
12. Cut down vertically through the traced line to a depth of approximately half the tile.
13. Cut through the edge of the tile horizontally to meet the vertical cut. Remove the trimmed section to reveal a new lipped edge.
14. Push the shorter end of the tile up through the frame. Turn it inside the space with the patterned side down. Lower the tile into the frame.
Tags: tile through, , edge tile, frame opening, through frame, tile with, ceiling space
Bath fans are compact and durable appliances designed to vent damp areas. If you're considering using a bath fan in an application other than a bathroom, like ventilating a work area or a damp basement, you may want to retrofit the fan so that it can be plugged into a wall outlet. With some easy-to-obtain materials and a little bit of work, you'll find that the job can be done in just a short while.
Instructions
1. Cut an electrical extension cord with the wire cutters to the proper length for your needs, taking into account how far your fan will be from the electrical outlet you plan to use. Leave the male plug -- the part that goes into the wall outlet -- on the wire.
2. Pull apart the extension cord's two insulated wires. Insert each wire into your wire stripper, 1/2 inch from the end. Pull the wire stripper toward the cut end of the wire to remove 1/2 inch of the insulation.
3. Insert the ends of the two wires that are connected to the bath fan into your wire stripper. Remove 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of each wire, using the same technique as before.
4. Pair the stripped ends of one wire from the extension cord and one wire from the bath fan. Put a wire connector over the paired ends. Hold the wires and twist the wire connector clockwise until it is tightly fastened on the wires. Wrap a piece of electrical tape around the base of the wire connector and the wires leading into it for further secure the connection.
5. Repeat Step 4 with the remaining two wires.
6. Plug the fan into the outlet to test its operation.
Tags: extension cord, wire connector, wire stripper, your , each wire,
Repairing a ceiling because of water damage can sometimes mean the need to remove a section of drywall. The drywall needs to be replaced if the damaged section is bowing or sagging or if you place a drywall screw to the damaged section and the screw goes right through when you try to insert it.
Instructions
Remove Damaged Drywall
1. Measure the length and the width of the section of damaged drywall. Use the straight edge and pencil to make an even square around the damaged area. The sides and ends of your square should all be the same length and width. This will make it easier to fit a new section.
2. Put on your safety glasses and dust mask. When you cut out the old drywall, it creates a lot of dust and falling particles. Use the drywall knife to cut out the square that you drew around the damaged area of ceiling. Place the pointed end of the knife to the ceiling and push it into the drywall or tap the end of the handle with a hammer.
3. Use your handsaw to cut four 4-inch sections off of the 1-inch-by-2 inch board. It is possible that the damaged section of drywall is not attached to a stud. You will need these blocks of wood to secure the new drywall to. Place a block in each corner of the hole that you cut in the ceiling. The blocks are laid flat on the back side of the hole with 2 inches sticking into view.
4. Use the drill and drill bit to secure the blocks of wood into place. Insert the screw through the ceiling drywall and into the wood. Complete this step in each corner. Measure the length and width of the hole to be sure that the new piece you cut will fit.
Install New Section of Drywall
5. Mark the measurements of the hole in the ceiling on the new section of drywall. Use the straightedge as a guide for your box knife. Use your box knife to score the drywall. Break off the scored edges. It is easier to cut one side at a time on the front side of the drywall. Lift the drywall and hit the back side close to where you cut it. The drywall will bend where it was cut. Use your box knife to cut through the paper. Complete this procedure for all four sides.
6. Set your ladder under the hole. Lay your drill and four drywall screws on top of the ladder. Place the new drywall section into the hole in the ceiling. Each corner of the drywall should fit up to the blocks of wood. With one hand hold the drywall section in place, With the other hand, put a screw on the tip of the drill bit. Insert a screw into each corner.
7. Cut a section of drywall tape to fit the length of one side of the drywall patch. Complete this step for each side. Make sure that the tape covers the seams where the two sections of drywall come together. The mesh tape is sticky on one side and will stick to the ceiling.
8. Fill the drywall compound tray with drywall compound. Use the 12-inch drywall knife to spread compound over the tape. Make sure to spread the compound thin and do not leave any edges. Allow the compound to dry overnight.
9. Reapply drywall compound over the entire patch smoothly and evenly. Allow to dry. When the compound is dry, you can sand it with drywall sandpaper. Texture if necessary, allow to dry and paint to match the rest of the ceiling.
Use a with a hose attachment to clean vaulted ceilings.
Trying to remove cobwebs from vaulted ceiling corners is a definite challenge. Using a step stool simply won't do the trick. Using a ladder or setting up complicated scaffolding isn't necessary, and can be dangerous. Mrs. Fix It, a do-it-yourself home repair website, suggests a simple method for cleaning the corners of vaulted ceilings--even when they are several feet above your head.
Instructions
1. Measure the distance from the top of your vacuum attachment to the vaulted ceiling corner using a measuring tape. Measure the attachment piece of your vacuum cleaner. Purchase a piece of PVC pipe that long enough to reach the ceiling and is slightly larger in circumference than the vacuum cleaner's attachment hose. Cut the PVC pipe using a handsaw if it is too long.
2. Attach the PVC pipe to the hose using duct tape. Wrap several layers of duct tape over the seam where the vacuum cleaner and PVC meet so the PVC pipe stays in place.
3. Put on protective eyewear. Turn on the vacuum. Hold the pipe up to the vaulted ceiling corners to remove all dirt and cobwebs. Don't forget to clean dust from your ceiling fans and light fixtures. Vacuum the floor in case any dirt and dust fell and was not vacuumed up.
Exposed ceiling beams in a basement have an unfinished look. There are two main options for covering an exposed basement ceiling -- drywall or a dropped ceiling. A dropped ceiling may make the space feel shorter than it is, so drywall is typically the best option. You will need a friend to help with this project, are heavy and it is nearly impossible to do this job alone.
Instructions
1. Make a deadman brace. Cut a length of 2-by-4 wood that is just 3/4 of an inch shorter than your ceiling. Attach a smaller 2-by-4 to the end of this board, horizontally, to create a "T" shape.
2. Attach the drywall panels, having a friend help lift each panel. Slide the underneath the end of each piece to hold it in place as you secure it to the ceiling. Use a cordless screwdriver and drive in drywall screws through the panel and into the ceiling joist at a rate of one screw for every 12 inches. Secure each panel in this manner. Cut panels as needed using a utility knife.
3. Tape your seams. Cover every seam with drywall tape. If you use self-adhesive tape, you do not need to place mud underneath the tape. Press the tape down firmly.
4. Put joint compound over the tape. Use a putty knife and spread a thin layer of joint the tape and over the dimples where you placed your screws. Extend the compound out from the tape by a 1/2 inch on each side. Scrape off the excess as you work. Let this set until it is dry.
5. Sand down the compound. Use a fine-grit sandpaper. Smooth out the compound until it is flush with the rest of the panel.
6. Prime and paint the ceiling. Edge with a paintbrush and use a roller for the rest of the ceiling. Let the primer dry for four to six hours. Roll on at least one coat of ceiling paint and let that dry.
Tags: compound over, compound over tape, deadman brace, dropped ceiling, drywall panels, each panel
Framing a tray ceiling is done two ways, the easy way and the hard way. Basic construction techniques for framing a tray ceiling can be used to get the best possible tray. This technique, using 1/2" OSB, can be used to frame any kind of tray design. It uses the least material, turns out very nice and it is a lot faster to build than other methods of construction.
Instructions
1. Snap a chalk line down the ceiling and wall the width and height of the tray, then nail in a 2x4 to the chalk line. Cut 1/2" OSB to the height measurement of the tray and nail a 2x4 on the flat side flush to the factory cut edge on the OSB.
2. Install the first run to the 2x4 on the ceiling. Take the total width measurement and subtract 3-1/2" to cut two 2x4 blocks. Put one block in each corner and then string a line from one corner to the other.
3. Run a quick layout at 16" on center on the 2x4 on the wall and the 2x4 on the OSB. Next go to the center layout mark of the tray and adjust it to the string line, then measure the 2x4 block that is needed. Repeat this until all the blocks are in. That now completes one run of the tray ceiling. Repeat these steps to finish up.
A ceiling vent filter traps dust and other airborne particles before they can enter a building's ventilation duct work. Heating and cooling systems circulate the air in a building by drawing air through a vent and pumping warm or cool air through duct work installed throughout the building. Over time, the filter accumulates so much dust that air cannot pass easily through the filter material. This reduces the effectiveness of the filter and makes the furnace or air conditioner work harder to draw air through the system. Changing the filter takes only a few minutes.
Instructions
1. Turn off the furnace or air conditioner to stop the blower.
2. Position a ladder below the ceiling vent. Ask a friend to hold the ladder steady, if necessary, while you climb up to the vent with a screwdriver.
3. Twist the screws in the corners of the vent cover counterclockwise to loosen then lower the cover, which is typically secured by hinges on the other side. The filter fits into the recessed frame above the vent cover.
4. Pull out the old filter, which is usually square or rectangular in shape. If you need to buy a replacement, note the measurements printed on the side of the old filter.
5. Place the new filter into position in the recessed frame above the vent cover. The arrows on the edge of the filter should point upward toward the ceiling. Flex the edges of the filter slightly to push it into position.
6. Raise the vent cover so it is flush with the ceiling and secure it in place by twisting its screws clockwise with the screwdriver.
7. Climb down from the ladder then turn on the furnace or air conditioner.
Replace a Ceiling Mount Kitchen Light With Recessed Pot Lighting
Recessed lighting, also known as pot lighting or can lighting, is used for many lighting applications. According to Cooper Lighting, recessed lighting is used for general task lighting in kitchens and family rooms. You can also find it in multiple areas of the home for accent lighting and wall washing to highlight pictures and make rooms appear larger. Having some previous electrical knowledge to replace a ceiling mount kitchen light with recessed pot lighting is a plus but not necessary to complete the task.
Instructions
1. Turn off the electricity to the lighting circuit by turning the breaker to the "Off" position inside the main service panel.
2. Remove the shade and light bulbs from the kitchen fixture. Remove the screws holding the fixture to the ceiling junction box, using the appropriate screwdriver. Disconnect the ceiling light fixture from the house wiring by untwisting the wire connectors holding the wires together.
3. Remove the original ceiling junction box by unscrewing the screws holding it to its support. If the ceiling junction box nails into the support, place a small piece of wood inside the box and strike the wood with a hammer, knocking the box from the support. Remove the wire from the original junction box and pull it through the opening in the ceiling.
4. Place the template provided with the remodel recessed pot lighting fixture over the original opening in the ceiling and trace around it. Carefully cut along the trace line with a keyhole saw, avoiding the wiring to remove the drywall from the ceiling.
5. Open the junction box attached to the recessed pot light fixture by pressing the tab with your thumb and pulling the cover from the box. Pull the original wiring through a knockout in the junction box.
6. Twist an orange wire connector onto the black wire from the original wiring to the black wire from the recessed pot light fixture, connecting them together. Repeat this connection for the white wire from the original wiring and the white wire from recessed pot light fixture. Finish the wiring of the fixture by connecting the green wire from the recessed pot light fixture to the bare copper wire from the original wiring with another wire connector.
7. Thread a remodel recessed pot light fixture through the opening you created until the lip of the fixture sits against the ceiling. Hold the pot light with one hand and with the other, place a slotted screwdriver into the slot on the black clip inside the fixture. Push up on the screwdriver until the clip clicks into place, clamping it to the ceiling. Repeat this for the remaining clips inside the pot light.
8. Install the recessed housing trim and light bulb. Turn on the electricity to the lighting circuit by turning the breaker to the "On" position inside the main service panel.
Tags: wire from, light fixture, recessed light, recessed light fixture, from original, original wiring
It's time to rethink the plain, white ceiling in your child's room.
When decorating a child's bedroom, don't overlook the ceiling. While waiting to go to sleep, the design of the ceiling will give the child something to look at. And during the day, this fifth wall adds interest to the overall look of the room.
Starry Night
Recreate the night sky on the ceiling in your child's bedroom. Paint the ceiling a flat black or dark blue. Print out a star chart from the SkyMaps.com for the month of your child's birthday. Prick out each of the star holes with a needle and tape the chart over a lantern to shine on the ceiling. Use phosphorescent paint to color each of the stars where its light shines on the ceiling.
Decals
Instead of applying self-sticking wall decals to the walls, paste them to the ceiling instead. Face the top of the decals toward the head of the child's bed. That way, the designs will be right-side up when she is looking up at them from the bed. Get input from your child on her favorite characters to put up as decals. Wallpaper and home-design stores will have a variety of themed vinyl decals for walls. Vinyl decals are also easy to remove and swap out for another design as your child grows and changes her tastes.
Day Sky
Paint the ceiling blue with white, fluffy clouds. Hang airplanes or spaceships from anchor bolts screwed into the ceiling. This gives the ceiling design a three-dimensional look. Children who make model planes for a hobby will be able to display the fruits of their labor in this manner. As the child tires of the design, change the airplanes out for different models or for model birds. This changes the look of the room without repainting the ceiling.
Wall to Wall
Finish a design motif started on the walls across the ceiling. For instance, stencil a line of animals up a wall at a diagonal angle. Where they meet the ceiling, continue the stenciled pattern at an angle across the ceiling to another wall and down that wall at the same angle. This design creates cohesiveness in the room and adds a whimsical touch to the room's design by applying the wall pattern over the top of the room.
Tags: your child, , ceiling your, ceiling your child, child bedroom, decals walls, look room
Dark, damp and poorly ventilated conditions spawn infestations of mold, so if you have a mold problem on your screen porch ceiling you have an unusual problem. More extensive steps are necessary to address the problem, and the usual solution of simply scrubbing the mold with bleach will not do. Also, to prevent a moldy recurrence, you will need to find and fix the leak that caused the problem in the first place.
Instructions
1. Remove two screen panels from opposite sides of the porch. Screens present a barrier (albeit a modest one) to breezes, and you want good ventilation to blow away any mold spores that are released during your removal efforts. If you cannot unscrew the screen panels, open the porch door and set up a fan to suck air out of the porch area.
2. Fill an empty spray bottle with white vinegar.
3. Saturate the moldy area on the ceiling with vinegar. Allow that to sit in place for three to five minutes.
4. Scrub the moldy area of the ceiling. Then rinse the ceiling with a rag and clean water from a pail.
5. Wait 30 minutes and then inspect your work area to determine if all the mold has been removed. If not, repeat the procedure.
Tags: area ceiling, ceiling with, moldy area, moldy area ceiling, screen panels
When you work as a contractor, you may at times have to price jobs for customers that you are not familiar with as part of your normal responsibilities. If you do not texture ceilings very often but are asked to provide a quote, you have to take several factors into consideration before coming up with a price.
Determine Square Footage
Before you can come up with an accurate estimate for a ceiling texture job, you need to know the exact square footage of the ceiling. To come up with this figure, measure the length and the width of the ceiling, then multiply the two numbers together. For example, if the ceiling is 12 feet long by 10 feet wide, the square footage of that area would be 120 square feet. If you are doing multiple rooms, add up the square footage of those areas. If rooms are not simple rectangles, measure the complete area as a number of separate rectangles, do the multiplication for each, and add the square footage totals for each together.
Labor Charges
Once you know the square footage of the ceilings, you can come up with an estimate for the labor. According to Home Wyse, the national average for ceiling texturing is between $.46 and $.62 per square foot, as of 2011. This means that you would choose a price and then multiply it by the square footage of the ceiling that you are texturing. In areas that have high labor rates, you may be able to charge closer to the $.62 per square foot.
Materials
In some cases, the customer will also expect you to provide the materials necessary for texturing the ceiling. When this happens, you will need to purchase the texturing compounds and make sure that you have enough for the job. According to Home Wyse, the cost of texturing materials varies from as low as $.12 per square foot to as much as $.16 per square foot. Compute the costs of materials the same way you did for the labor, and add the totals together for your estimate. This provides you with the necessary materials to prepare the ceiling and then texture.
Considerations
When calculating a bid for a ceiling texture job, you also need to take into consideration your travel charges. The per-square-foot price that you charge could include this travel charge, or you could charge for it separately as long as you inform the customer in advance of the additional charges. Look at the size of the job and estimate how long it will take you to complete it when making the calculation. If you will be on the job for multiple days, this could require you to spend a considerable amount of money on gas and other travel expenses, depending on your distance from the job site.
Tags: square footage, square foot, come with, According Home, According Home Wyse, ceiling texture,
Installing decorative ceiling tiles can add a touch of elegance to an otherwise plain or boring ceiling. Decorative ceiling tiles are relatively light, especially faux tiles, and easy to install. The only drawback is that the installation process can be time-consuming and somewhat tedious. But the lasting effect of the decorative is the charm and ambiance of the room.
Instructions
1. Remove fixtures such as lamps and vent frames from the ceiling. Use a screwdriver to remove all the screws holding the fixtures in place.
2. Using a tape measure, measure the length and width of the ceiling. Divide each measurement in half and mark that measurement for all sides using a pencil. Then use a chalk line to mark the halves on the ceiling. The result should be four rectangles.
3. Apply small dabs of tile adhesive throughout the back of the tile, including the edges, using a small taping knife.
4. Set the first four tiles into each corner where the lines meet in the middle of the ceiling. Press gently with hands.
5. Measure the edge tiles by measuring the remaining length on both sides of the tiles. For example, align the measurement from the last tile before the edges of the ceiling; measure the length on either side, because the measurements may differ in quarter inches or less. Then measure and mark the two measurements on a new tile and cut with a . Make sure that the piece fits before applying adhesive.
6. Put the tile in place with adhesive. Then cut out the hole for fixtures with a utility knife.
Tags: ceiling tiles, with utility knife, measure length, utility knife, with utility
After a few years of living with out a ceiling light fixture over their kitchen table my friend decided it was time to install one. ...... This isn't a very difficult task but it does require some knowledge of how a house is framed in order to locate walls & partitions while in the attic. Also safety first turn off the power!!!!!!!
Instructions
1. First thing is to determine the location of the ceiling fixture so it is located in the center of the table. Then poke a small hole through the drywall at that location and stick a piece of wire through the hole and into the attic.
2. Go into the attic and find the piece of wire. You'll need to know the general vicinity of the wire because it may not be visible prior to moving insulation away from the area. Once you've located the wire you can determine if there is any obstructions, like a ceiling joist in the way. Hopefully there won't be otherwise you may have to move the location of the light fixture.
3. Go back downstairs and trace the outside of the electrical box you purchased at the home improvement store. Cut a hole in the drywall using a drywall saw.
4. Go back up in the attic and install the ceiling electrical box using the slide brackets and attach them into the ceiling joists. You can find several types of ceiling boxes at the home improvement store we chose a metal box.
5. the new light fixture will be turned on with a switch. We are putting The switch on the inside wall of the dinning room. While your in the attic move some insulation in the general vicinity of the inside wall. You should see a 2x4 up in the attic, this is the top plate of the wall. Drill a hole through the top plate near the location of where the switch will be located.
6. Next thing is to get power to the fixture. We were lucky enough to find a junction box in the attic that had continual power. We ran a 14-2 cable from the junction box to the ceiling fixture. Then another 14-2 cable from the ceiling fixture to the hole we drilled in the top plate and down the inside of the wall. Turn off the power for the circuit that you'll be tapping into and connect the black & white wires from the new cable to the black & white wires in the junction box. (black to black, white to white).
7. Go back downstairs and using a plastic remolding electrical box purchased from your home improvement store, trace the outside of the box at the desired location. Cut a hole using a drywall saw. Now stick your hand into the hole and feel for cable you sent down the wall from the attic. Pull the cable out of the hole leaving about eight inches hanging out of the wall. Feed the cable through the top of the electrical box and slide the box into the opening. Turn the screws on the electrical box to secure the box in the wall.
8. At the electrical box in the ceiling you'll have two cables, the feed or hot cable and the switch leg going to the switch. Skin the cables and connect the black wire from the feed cable to the white wire of the switch leg cable using a wire nut. Let about six inches of the white wire from the feed cable remain in the ceiling box along with the black wire from the switch cable.
9. Now at the switch box skin the cable and put a black piece of tape on the white wire, this is to indicate that the white wire is actually hot. Attach both the black and white wires to a single pole light switch and install it in the electrical box.
10. Install the mounting hardware and light fixture to the ceiling box, turn the power back on, and turn on the switch.
Tags: black white, white wire, black white wires, ceiling fixture, feed cable, home improvement
This tray ceiling has mirrors in the recessed area and rope lighting.
If you live in an older home, chances are your ceilings are only eight or nine feet high. You can enhance the look of a boring, low ceiling by creating depth and drama with a . The name "tray ceiling" comes from the finished look, which resembles an inverted tray. The difficulty in adding a tray ceiling is not in making it, but rather in designing it, since your choices are many.
Instructions
Planning and Design
1. Purchase several different types of crown molding and bring them to the room where you're adding a tray ceiling. Try out several combinations in the available light to see what looks best.
2. Determine where you want the lower ceiling. In most older homes with low ceilings, you should leave the main ceiling at its current height, and add the tray effect around the perimeter. It can either be free-standing with trim on both sides, or butted up to the wall. Consider an octagonal design for added elegance.
3. Measure your room. If adding the tray to the perimeter, quadruple the measurement. Divide by the length of the 2-by-4 studs to get the proper amount of materials. For example, if your room is 12-by-16 feet, the total measurement is 56 feet around the perimeter. You will need 224 feet of studs. If your studs are 8 feet long, you will need 28 studs to build your . You may want to buy a few more, because you'll need to cut some of them.
4. Select the crown molding you want. Most tray ceilings have multiple crown molding combinations in a stair-step effect. Determine what the final look will be. Consider adding rope lighting on the inside of the dropped part of the ceiling, painting the inside a different color from the rest of the ceiling, adding a chandelier to the center of the recessed area, possibly painting a mural in the recessed area or adding tin or glass panels.
Build Lower Ceiling
5. Nail together a box out of the 2-by-4s to the size you've determined for your tray effect. Attach to the ceiling joists with a nail gun. Continue until you have four sides.
6. Add recessed lighting, if desired, before you enclose the box. Unless you understand electricity, it's best to leave this step to a professional.
7. Cut Sheetrock to fit over the box. Attach with drywall screws.
8. Nail up metal edging strips to finish off any outer edges. Tape the joints, using joint compound to adhere the tape. Allow to dry.
9. Add two more coats of joint compound to the seams, sanding between each coat. Allow to dry completely.
Hang Crown Molding
10. Calculate the amount of crown molding that you will need by measuring the inside and outside edge of the new soffit and adding those measurements together. You can add crown to the part of the soffit that attaches to the wall, or to the bottom of the soffit, or both. Purchase a bit more than you will need to allow for miter cuts.
11. Join each piece of crown together with a miter cut, using a miter saw and a coping saw to cut. Attach to the soffit with nails and a nail gun.
12. Prime the drywall with primer paint. Add rope lighting, if desired.
13. Paint the new tray ceiling for your final effect.
Tags: tray ceiling, will need, , recessed area, rope lighting, tray ceiling
Remote control fans are an easy way to control the temperature or breeze in a room when you don't want to, or cannot, get up to change the settings on your fan. They are nice for bedrooms because you can control your fan from your bed. They're especially nice when someone is ill or recovering from an injury because there's no need to walk to the fan. If your fan remote is lost or broken you will probably want to replace it to continue using the convenient feature.
Instructions
Replacing Your Remote With the Original Model
1. Look through your owner's manual to find any information about ordering replacement parts. If there is not an obvious contact number for that, try looking for the general contact information for the manufacturer. The information is usually located in the back of the manual.
2. Locate the model number for your fan and the remote. The model numbers will be on the front of the manual or on the first page.
3. Contact the company and order your remote. Have your model number handy in case you need to provide it.
Replacing Your Remote With a Universal Model
4. Write down your fan's model number and manufacturer and go to a home improvement store or search online for universal remotes.
5. Find a remote that will work with your model of fan. Your model number will be useful when deciding which remote to buy. Show it to a store clerk, or compare it with the supported models if buying a remote online.
6. Read through your remote's owner's manual to find out if you need to program your remote. If so, follow the manufacturer's instructions. If it doesn't need to be programmed, you can use it immediately.
Tags: model number, your model, your remote, manual find, owner manual, owner manual find,
Any type of water-resistant tile, including plastic ceiling tiles, can be used to create an easy-to-clean backsplash for a kitchen or bathroom. Whether you use a simple grid of uniformly colored and sized tiles or mix and match tiles to create a mosaic pattern, you should always measure the area of your desired backsplash and plan the tile spacing and placement before you begin. You can use a piece of butcher or kraft paper cut to the size of your backsplash as a "map" for placement.
Instructions
1. Pry away any old tile and remove switch plates or outlet covers using the screwdriver.
2. Sand the backsplash 80-grit sandpaper.
3. Wipe area well using a damp rag to remove any dust, dirt, paint flakes or old mastic and grout.
4. Apply a thin layer of mastic or thinset to the backspash area using the putty knife.
5. Place the plastic tiles in the desired pattern, pushing them into the mastic or thinset to achieve a good seal.
6. Clean off the putty knife and allow the tiles to set overnight.
7. Apply grout to the gaps between the tiles using the putty knife. Push the grout into the gaps as deeply as possible.
8. Wipe away excess grout using a damp rag. Allow the grout to dry completely, per the manufacturer's instructions, before using the backsplash.
Tags: putty knife, area using, mastic thinset, using damp, using putty, using putty knife
Hang curtains from the ceiling above your bed to create a canopy effect.
Although curtains and drapery are most often hung from rods attached to a wall, there are times when you may want to hang curtains from the ceiling. For example, you can use ceiling-hung curtain panels to divide a room or add privacy, or just to give a slight twist to the look of your window treatments. Additionally, you can create a luxurious canopy treatment by hanging curtain panels from the ceiling bed. While installing drapery hardware on a ceiling is basically the same as installing it on a wall, there are a few special steps to follow.
Instructions
1. Shop carefully for brackets, being certain to purchase brackets that can be used on a ceiling. Many curtain rod brackets have arms with U-shaped ends that the rod simply rests in. These work well when installed on a wall but will not work on a ceiling. Instead, look for brackets and rods that are all one piece or brackets that encircle the rod and hold it securely from any angle.
2. Hold the rods and brackets up to the ceiling to determine their placement. Use a pencil to mark where the brackets' pilot holes will be drilled.
3. Drill the pilot holes. If you have drilled into drywall and not into solid wood, insert a wall anchor into each hole. Tap the wall anchor gently with a small hammer so it slides into the pilot hole and is flush with the ceiling.
4. Attach the brackets to the ceiling with screws. If you've used wall anchors, twist the screws directly into them.
5. Slide the curtain rod through the brackets, if applicable. Some brackets include a small screw that you tighten against the rod to hold it more securely. If this is the case with your brackets and rods, tighten the screws until they hold the rod in place but do not over-tighten.
Tags: from ceiling, above your, brackets ceiling, brackets rods, brackets that
The Hunter Original ceiling fan is the only fan manufactured by Hunter that needs oil to lubricate its bearings. It is made of cast iron and the design dates to 1906. There are actually two Hunter Original models: one for indoor use and another for outdoor installations. When you put in a Hunter Original, you must add oil to the reservoir, or you will damage the motor. If you should move the fan to another location, you may need to oil the fan again. The fan does not use up oil the way a vehicle does, and rarely, if ever, will you need to add oil.
Instructions
Indoor Hunter Original Fan
1. Make a pipe cleaner to check the oil level in your indoor Hunter Original ceiling fan. Measure an inch from the end of the pipe cleaner, and make a 90-degree bend at the 1-inch mark. Measure 1 inch from the 90-degree bend, and make another 90 degree bend. Your pipe cleaner should look like a squared-off hook.
2. Insert the pipe cleaner into the Hunter oil reservoir to check the oil level. To access the reservoir, stand directly beneath the fan and insert the pipe cleaner up and over the top of the switch housing, right against the motor. The switch housing hangs from the bottom of the fan and houses the speed switch for the motor.
3. Pull the pipe cleaner from the oil reservoir and inspect the end. If any oil is present on the tip of the pipe cleaner, do not add oil to the fan. If the pipe cleaner is dry, you must add oil to the Hunter fan, and proceed to the following steps.
4. Spread newspapers on the floor directly beneath your fan, and protect any furniture with an old sheet or tarp to be safe.
5. Add SAE 10 nondetergent ceiling fan oil to the Hunter Original. You can obtain ceiling fan oil at home-improvement stores and fan and lighting stores. Locate the oil-fill hole at the top of the motor. Place the tip of the oil tube in the hole, and let gravity draw the oil into the fan for about one minute. Do not squeeze the tube.
6. Recheck your Hunter ceiling fan oil level. Add additional oil if necessary, and then turn the fan on to coat the bearings with oil.
Outdoor Hunter Original Fan
7. Check the oil level in your Hunter Original ceiling fan by unscrewing the on the side of the switch housing. If oil does not flow from the hole, you must add oil to the fan.
8. Spread newspapers on the ground directly beneath your fan, and protect any outdoor furniture with an old sheet or tarp.
9. Remove the fan blade that sits directly above the oil-hole screw. Remove the screw, and tilt the fan at an angle sufficient to add SAE 10 nondetergent ceiling fan oil. Let gravity draw the oil from the tube for about one minute. Do not squeeze the oil from the tube.
10. Recheck the oil level by releasing the fan, and let it hang straight from the ceiling. See if oil flows from the oil hole. Add additional oil if none flows from the screw hole. Replace the oil-hole screw, and then turn the fan on to coat the bearings with oil
Pregnancy discrimination is a type of gender discrimination
Gender discrimination, also called sex discrimination, is the practice of treating individuals differently because of their gender. Gender discrimination has historically been perceived as limiting the opportunities of women, but modern civil rights law also includes the protection of men.
History
In the 19th century, women in the United States often had to surrender their property to their husbands when they married; women could not vote and had limited opportunities to work or pursue their educations.
Civil Rights Legislation
The 19th Amendment granted women the right to vote in 1920. The Equal Pay Act of 1963 banned employers from discriminating against employees on the ground of sex with respect to compensation. Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964 prohibited discrimination in employment on the basis of sex.
Effects
According to the National Organization for Women, large wage gaps still remain; in 2007, women earned only 78 cents for every dollar earned by men.
Misconceptions
Marital and parental status discrimination are not prohibited by federal law, although many states have passed laws banning discrimination on these grounds.
Terminology
The term "glass ceiling" is often used to refer to the invisible, unofficial barrier preventing women or other disadvantaged groups from advancing to upper-level business positions.
If you want to display your menu as a stylish row of images you can scroll through and click on, you need to implement a JavaScript dockable menu. When you place your mouse cursor over one of the small images, it expands and you can click it to navigate to another page. A dockable menu script is useful for adding features to your website. Furthermore, it is displayed properly in all Web browsers and you can use it anywhere on your pages.
Instructions
1. Open a text editor, such as Notepad or WordPad to create a new text document.
2. Insert this code inside the editor:
function MacStyleDock(node, imageDetails, minimumSize, maximumSize, range){
var iconsNode = document.createElement('div');
node.appendChild(iconsNode);
var reflectedIconsNode = document.createElement('div');
for (var i = 0; i < iconNodes.length; i++) updateIconProperties(i);
}
}
function processMouseOut(){
if (!closeTimeout && !closeInterval){
closeTimeout = window.setTimeout(
function(){
closeTimeout = null;
if (openInterval){
window.clearInterval(openInterval);
openInterval = null;
}
closeInterval = window.setInterval(
function(){
if (scale > 0) scale -= 0.125;
if (scale <= 0){
scale = 0;
window.clearInterval(closeInterval);
closeInterval = null;
}
for (var i = 0; i < iconNodes.length; i++){
updateIconProperties(i);
}
},
20);
},
100);
}
}
}
4. Save the file in the folder containing the HTML page you want to insert the dock in and name it "dockable_menu.js". The ".js" extension is mandatory to change the file from a text document to a JavaScript file.
5. Open the webpage in any text or HTML editor. Insert this code between the "" and "" tags to execute the script:
6. Insert this code anywhere between the "" and "" tags:
The dock must be inserted inside this DIV structure.
7. Insert this code between the "
" and "
" tags:
var dock = new MacStyleDock(
document.getElementById('dock'),
[
{
name : 'image1',
extension : '.jpg',
sizes : [32, 64],
onclick : function(){
window.location = 'www.example.com';
}
},
{
name : 'image2',
extension : '.bmp',
sizes : [32, 64],
onclick : function(){
alert('You clicked on the wrong icon');
}
}
],
32,
64,
2);
You can insert as many items between the "[" and "]" tags as you want. Replace "image1" with the exact name of the image, without its extension. Replace ".jpg" with the extension of your image. In the "sizes" line, replace "32" with the image's minimum pixel size and "64" with the image's maximum pixel size. Use "window.location" in the "function" function to link the image to a webpage and "alert" if you just want to display a message. Replace "32" and "64" under the "]" tag with the minimum and maximum size of your dock icons. Replace "2" with the number of icons you have in your dock.
8. Save the webpage and load it in your Web browser to test the dockable menu.
Ask an assistant to hold a ladder for you before attempting to change a ceiling light bulb.
A swivel light or lamp is one that rotates or pivots around a central fixed position. Many lighting products use swivel lights, including those used on ceilings so you can change the direction of the light to suit your home lighting needs. Swivel lights usually use a standard light bulb, and the challenging part of changing them is not the bulb, but rather the location of the light in high and hard to reach areas of the ceiling.
Instructions
1. Set up a stepladder or regular ladder under the light bulb that you want to change. Try to set the ladder up just away from the light so that you are not directly under the light. This will help you maintain your balance and see what you are doing. For your safety, ask an assistant to hold the ladder for you.
2. Raise a pole-mounted bulb changer up to the swivel light. If the light is pivoted at an angel or at a horizontal level, use the pole to push or drag the light so that the bulb is facing directly down. You can purchase a pole-mounted bulb changer at most hardware or lighting stores.
3. Attach the suction cup or steel fingers of the bulb changer directly onto the light bulb. Slowly rotate the pole to the left and unscrew the light bulb. If the light bulb is a type that does not screw, then gently tug the pole downward until the light bulb pops out of its fixture. Make sure to maintain your balance, especially if you are standing on a ladder, and hold the pole steady when you lower the bulb out of the light fixture.
4. Place a new bulb into the suction cup or steel fingers of the and raise the pole to the lamp. Slowly rotate the pole to the right and screw the light bulb into the fixture. Again, if the light bulb is not the type you screw, then simply push upward until the bulb clicks into the fixture.
5. Push the swivel lamp back into the position that you had it in originally, or into whatever position that best suits your lighting needs.
Tags: light bulb, bulb changer, assistant hold, assistant hold ladder,
Safely hanging drywall alone requires the correct equipment.
The size and weight of Sheetrock panels makes them difficult to install on a ceiling by yourself. One missed step and you can strain your back or drop and break the drywall sheet. To avoid injury or breaking a piece of Sheetrock, you need a tool designed to support and hold the sheet in place during installation. Homemade tools do work but they can slip and allow the Sheetrock to fall, causing damage to both you and the Sheetrock. A drywall lift will not allow a piece of Sheetrock to slip and fall.
Instructions
1. Assemble the drywall lift per the manufacturer's operating instructions. Tilt the rack of the lift to the side. Pull the two lower hooks away from the rack frame.
2. Place a pencil mark on the finished side of the Sheetrock for each stud that will sit behind the installed sheet. Extend each mark to create a line at with a drywall square.
3. Set the piece of Sheetrock on the rack with the finished side of the sheet facing toward the rack. Adjust the rack until it sits parallel to the ceiling. Slide the drywall lift into position. Turn the winch wheel clockwise to raise the sheet to the ceiling. Lock the in place.
4. Set up a stepladder below the drywall lift.
5. Run 1 1/2-inch drywall screws through the drywall and into the ceiling joists with a 10-to-12-inch spacing. Lower the drywall lift when the Sheetrock is secure. Move the lift to another location to ready it for installing another piece of Sheetrock.
Remember the days when you had to get up from your comfortable couch to turn the channel on your television? Or, when you had to turn the volume dial on your stereo to turn it up or down? That was life before the remote control came into the picture-and ever since then, we've been trying to remote control just about every aspect of our lives to the point that we now have cars that can parallel park on their own!
One application that really uses remote control ability to its advantage is the ceiling fan. With a remote controlled ceiling fan, you can easily adjust the comfort level in the room with a touch of a button. And some transmitters even allow you to dim the lights on your fan! Want maximum comfort with minimal effort? Here is install a wireless ceiling fan controller.
Instructions
1. Decide whether to purchase a ceiling fan with a built-in wireless transmitter or an individual kit that includes the transmitter and remote. I recommend purchasing a regular fan and going with the kit. The reason is because if the built-in transmitter goes bad, you will have to purchase a brand new fan in most cases. With the kit, you simply switch it out!
2. If you choose to go with the remote kit, then you are going to have to get access to the ceiling fan's wiring. Because of this, you will have to find the circuit breaker that delivers power to the fan. Once you find it, leave it OFF.
3. Lower the ceiling fan's canopy. On most fans there will be a few screws located at the top of the canopy which secure it to the mounting bracket. Remove the screws and let the canopy slide down the downrod.
If you don't see the screws, your fan may have a compression ring in place that hides them. Just twist the ring counter-clockwise and it should detach, revealing the screws.
4. At this point, you will want to use your touch-type voltage tester to check the wires for voltage to ensure that the circuit is in fact, off. Locate the hot wire. It is the black wire coming from the box in the ceiling and it should have two wires from the fan attached to it (one wire if the fan doesn't have a light assembly). Disconnect the wires and then do the same for the white wires.
5. If you look on your remote control transmitter, there will be a number of wires sticking out from it. On one side there will be a black and a white and the other side will have a blue, a red and a white. There should also be a .
6. Before you make your connections, make sure that both the transmitter and the remote are set to the same frequency.
7. The first connection you will make will be the ground wire. Use a wire connector and secure the ground wire to the other ground wires in the junction box. Next, take the black and white wires from the transmitter and connect them to the black and white wires coming from the ceiling (black to black and white to white).
8. Take the other white wire (from the three-wire side) on the transmitter and connect it to the white wire coming from the ceiling fan. The blue and red wires on the transmitter should be labeled as to what they feed, but in most cases the blue feeds the lights and the red feeds the fan. So, connect the blue transmitter wire to the blue ceiling fan wire and the red transmitter wire to the black ceiling fan wire.
9. Make sure all of the wire connectors are on tight and wrap a strip of electrical tape around each one where the wires enter the connector.
10. Now comes the difficult part--making everything fit! Gently push the wires back up into the junction box and slide the transmitter into a position where it will allow the canopy to be resecured. This part requires patience and it could take a few tries to get it right. Once you find the right spot, screw the canopy back in place and resecure the compression ring if you have one.
11. Install the batteries in your remote, turn the circuit breaker back on and use the pull chain on the ceiling fan to set it in the "high" position. With the fan running, test your remote to ensure that everything works. Leave the fan on its highest setting and turn it off with the remote.
Tags: , remote control, coming from, coming from ceiling, from ceiling, ground wire