Remove A Plaster Ceiling And Leave The Beams Exposed

A crowbar will make removing a plaster ceiling fairly easy.

Whether you're tearing out the plaster ceiling because you are remodeling and want to leave the ceiling with exposed beams or because the plaster is severely cracked and damaged, prepare to get dirty. Removing a plaster ceiling is a filthy, dusty job. However, the good news is that it only requires a crowbar and some safety gear. And since you're tearing out the plaster on the ceiling, the job is much less strenuous than tearing out a wall, since you'll have gravity on your side.

Instructions

1. Put on a dust mask and safety goggles.

2. Position a ladder in one corner of the room, leaving it a few feet from the wall. When standing on top of the ladder, you should be able to reach over the top of the ladder and touch the corner of the ceiling with the crowbar.

3. Use the straight end of the crowbar to punch a hole in the corner of the ceiling. The hole needs to be big enough so you can get the curved end of the crowbar in the hole.

4. Place the curved end of the crowbar in the hole and grip the lath behind the plaster, then pull down. By using this method, you'll be able to remove the plaster and lath in one step. Pull gently on the lath to try to keep the wood in one piece, which will make it easier to pull down. Using too much force will snap the thin pieces of lath.

5. Work your way from one end of the ceiling to the other until you have an entire row of the ceiling removed. Next, start another row, and continue until the entire ceiling is removed.

6. Remove any nails that are still in the beams by using the curved end of the crowbar to pry them out.

Tags: curved crowbar, plaster ceiling, ceiling removed, ceiling with, corner ceiling, crowbar hole

Clean Dust Off Of Ceiling Vents

Few things are more satisfying than a sparkling clean house, but most people stop at the top of the tallest piece of furniture. Ceiling vents are great dust collectors, and in the kitchen they can also attract grease. To get the dust off of your ceiling vents so that your heater and air conditioning aren't simply blowing irritants back into your home, follow these simple tips. They are arranged from the lightest cleaning to the most intensive.

Instructions

1. The simplest method is to use a vacuum cleaner with the extension and brush attachment to suck the dust off of your ceiling vents. Tape the brush attachment to the extension with duct tape so that it doesn't get knocked off when you are cleaning the vent.

2. For a more thorough cleaning, put on your goggles and dust mask and use a broom to clean the dust off of the vents, then sweep it up from the floor.

3. The most labor-intensive method is to climb a ladder so you can reach the ceiling vents and use a screwdriver to remove the vents. Make sure you keep the screws in a safe place.

4. Wash the vents thoroughly with the de-greaser and hot water. Dish soap works for mild dust; use TSP or Mr. Clean for kitchen grease. When they are clean, dry the vents completely, and replace them.

Tags: ceiling vents, brush attachment, dust your, dust your ceiling, your ceiling

Wall Paper A Ceiling

You might want to hang wallpaper on a ceiling to cover up old stains and light cracks. Unlike hanging paper on a wall, papering a ceiling works against gravity; unless you are aware of a couple of tricks of the trade, you might be considering leaving the job to professionals. However, hanging wallpaper on a ceiling is a fairly easy process, with a little preparation and the assistance of a friend. Choose a simple wallpaper that doesn't have a fussy design. White or cream wallpaper, with or without embossing, works well.

Instructions

1. Prepare your surface. Wash the ceiling with warm, soapy water. Smooth out any bumps with sandpaper.

2. Leave the ceiling to dry for about an hour, then paint the surface with a high quality primer. Let it dry for the time indicated on the primer (usually 2 to 4 hours).

3. Choose an area to start wallpapering. Select an area in one corner of the room. Make sure the area you want to start work in is straight by snapping a chalk line. You can enlist the help of a friend to hold one end of the chalk line.

4. Measure the chalk line to get the length of one strip of wallpaper. Add 1 foot to this length. Cut the wallpaper to the calculated length with scissors.

5. Follow the wallpaper manufacturer's instructions for preparing the wallpaper for hanging, making sure to use a strong, clay-based wallpaper paste.

6. Line up the wallpaper with the chalk line and smooth the paper into place with the sponge. Your friend should hold the wallpaper as you roll.

7. Continue to paper the ceiling, lining up the edges of the wallpaper. Do not worry at this point about any overlap at the edges.

8. Use a trim guard and a razor knife to trim off the edges of the paper.

Tags: chalk line, wallpaper ceiling, wallpaper with

Install A Chandelier Over A Ceiling Fan Site

Install a Chandelier Over a Ceiling Fan Site

A chandelier can be heavier than a ceiling fan. So, to get that look you want and desire without any problems will mean that you will have to use an electrical box that can support the weight. A visit to the local hardware store will be the first step to installing that chandelier over a ceiling fan site. Because of the many styles and brands available, you will need to choose the appropriate chandelier.

Instructions

1. Turn the power off at the circuit breaker or fuse box in the basement or utility room. Place your ladder under the ceiling fan site. Take the new fan brace out of the box and turn it until it is at the shortest length. Put the brace in the hole and lay it flat on the ceiling. Open the brace up until it is pressed tightly against the joists. Secure with an adjustable wrench.

2. Remove the knockout plug out of the electrical box using a screwdriver and if it doesn't have a connector, add one to the knockout hole. Pull 6 inches of cable into the box and secure it. Put the U-bolt over the fan brace. Put the support flange on the U-bolt and tighten with the nuts provided and an adjustable wrench.

3. Line the holes in the electrical box with the threaded ends of the U-bolt. Secure with the hex nuts and a nut driver. Adjust the wires and chain length so that the chandelier hangs at the desired height. Put the nipple on the chain holder and in the mounting bar. Push the wires into the nipple. Attach the chandelier's mounting bar to the electric box.

4. Wrap the copper ground wire around the ground screw and to the ground wire on the chandelier. Twist the white wire to white wire, black wire to black wire. Secure with wire nuts. Tuck the wiring in the electrical box. Push the canopy up to the top of the chain and hold it tight to the ceiling.

5. Slide the retaining collar up to the top of the chain and thread it on the chain holder. Tighten the retainer collar with your hand so that it holds the canopy. Screw in the light bulbs and install the decorative fixtures. Restore the power at the circuit breaker of fuse box.

Tags: Secure with, adjustable wrench, black wire, breaker fuse, ceiling site, chain holder, Chandelier Over

Clean Antique Brass Outdoor Light Fixtures

Antique brass outdoor light fixtures should be cleaned as needed to remove dust and debris buildup. Brass light fixture cleaning methods vary based on whether the light fixture is lacquered brass or non-lacquered brass. Lacquered brass has a thin, clear coating that helps protect it from the elements. If the brass is lacquered, it should only be cleaned with water. Using chemicals can cause the lacquer to become cloudy. If the brass is not lacquered, it can be cleaned with household items or brass cleaners.

Instructions

Lacquered Antique Brass Outdoor Light Fixtures

1. Dampen a rag or cloth in warm water.

2. Rub the cloth over the brass on the light fixture to remove dust and debris. Rinse and re-dampen the cloth as needed. Continue until the brass is clean.

3. Dry the cloth with a towel to prevent water spotting.

Non-Lacquered Antique Brass Outdoor Light Fixtures: Homemade Cleaner

4. Add one tsp. of salt to 1/2 cup of vinegar. Stir until salt is dissolved. Add 1/2 cup of flour so the mixture has a paste-like consistency. Add more vinegar if the mixture is too thick; add more flour if the mixture is too watery.

5. Dip a cloth or rag into the mixture. Rub the mixture onto the brass fixture. Continue until all of the brass is coated in the paste. Allow the paste to sit on the brass light fixture for 10 minutes.

6. Wipe away the paste and residue with a soft, damp cloth.

7. Buff the surface dry with a towel or dry rag.

Non-Lacquered Antique Brass Outdoor Light Fixtures: Brass Cleaner

8. Apply a small amount of brass cleaner to a cloth or rag.

9. Rub the cloth onto the light fixture to remove dust and dirt. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for length of time the cleaner should remain on the brass.

10. Wipe the cleaner from the light fixture, using a soft cloth.

11. Buff the surface dry with a towel or dry rag.

Tags: light fixture, Outdoor Light, Antique Brass, Brass Outdoor Light, remove dust, with towel

Buy Ceiling Fans For Cathedral Ceilings

Installing cathedral fans can be tricky because you can't wire them through an attic.

If you are looking to buy a cathedral ceiling fan, you will need to look at cost, appearance, accessibility and practicality of installation. There is probably no attic above your cathedral ceiling, so you must be sure that there's an unobtrusive way to connect the fan to a power source. You will also need a device that comes with a remote control. You want an assurance that once the fan is installed, you won't have to climb up a ladder or regularly hire an electrician to maintain it.

Instructions

1. Consult an electrician. He can look over the electrical system in your house and tell you what types of fans will work with your cathedral ceiling. You may need him to install the device after the purchase, so it's worth the added expense. This consultation may be an estimate for the work, so you can then factor in the cost of labor when deciding on how much to spend on the fan, and you still have the option of looking for an electrician that will do the work for less.

2. Visit a lighting store or large hardware store that has a large selection of ceiling fans. You can browse online as well, but it's better to shop in person if you want to visualize how a fan would blend in or contrast with the walls and ceiling of a room. Bring the room measurements and the height of your ceiling if you have that information available, as well as any recommendations you obtained from an electrician. If you are replacing an existing cathedral ceiling can, note the brand and model number of that device, or its specifications, which may include the length of blades, horse power and whether the blades are made of wood or plastic.

3. Limit your choices to something that has a warranty or guarantee on the product. This is important because you won't have easy access to a high ceiling to fix the device yourself or replace parts if something goes wrong. If the purchase does not include a service agreement, you at least want parts or product replacement covered to help offset the costs of an electrician. Read over the guarantees on fans very thoroughly to note whether the entire fan, or just the motor, is covered. The length of guarantees typically range from five years to lifetime coverage.

Tags: cathedral ceiling, will work, your cathedral, your cathedral ceiling

Tile A Bathroom Ceiling

Ceiling tiles come in a range of sizes.

Spruce up your bathroom with a tiled ceiling that compliments your décor while concealing old stains and cracks. Installation is easy, even for nonhandy homeowners. Use specially treated tiles that withstand hot, moisture-laden bathroom conditions. The tiles are slotted into a metal grid that is suspended from the existing ceiling. This allows instant access to pipes and wiring. You can get this grid at tile stores. Select tile sizes of 12-inch squares or 2-by-2-foot or two-by-four-foot panels. You'll need a 3- to 4-inch clearance to slide in the tiles.

Instructions

Mark the Ceiling

1. Measure the ceiling area and plot it on graph paper. Determine the position of the grid on the ceiling so all sides have straight lines.

2. Calculate how many full tiles you'll need and add extras to use in uneven edges.

3. Use a 4-foot level to make guidelines 4 inches below the existing ceiling or wooden joists for tiles or 6 inches below for lighting fixtures. Measure several areas on three walls, then mark with chalk line at the lowest point.

4. Complete the grid by connecting lines on the fourth wall with a chalk line when the three perimeter lines are level and the correct height.

Install the Grid

5. Locate wall studs and firmly attach L-shaped metal wall brackets below guidelines with 6d nails. Trim as needed with tin snips and butt two pieces together where needed, as at corners.

6. Mark vertical crosspiece -- also called a channel or main runner -- positions at regular intervals according to tile size with a chalk line on joists or ceiling. Insert runners into wall brackets and follow the guidelines to opposite wall.

7. Attach main runners to ceiling every third joist, about every 3 feet, by threading 16-gauge wire from the hole in the runner through eyebolt screwed into ceiling or joists. Make wires the same length so they hang evenly and twist them three times at each end. Hook runners together for longer spans.

8. Mark a path for a horizontal cross runner with chalkline, then lay the end on the wall bracket. Place a cross runner on top of a main runner, insert its hook into the slot on the main runner and lock to form the grid.

Install Tiles

9. Lay ceiling tiles on top of the runners, slotting them into the spaces provided.

10. Cut irregular side tiles finish side up with a sharp utility knife. Lay between channels and wall.

11. Finish by installing a border of wood or plastic molding to conceal the wall brackets.

Tags: chalk line, main runner, wall brackets, with chalk, with chalk line, cross runner

Convert A Remote Control Ceiling Fan To Switch Operation

Quit using the fan remote and convert if to switch operation.

A remote control fan is both convenient and a novelty. It's convenient because you can lie in bed and change the fan speed or dim or turn off the lights without having to come out from under the covers. It's a novelty because not many fans are wired to be remotely controlled, but all fans can have a remote control added. Whatever reason your fan was remotely controlled, you can convert it to switch operation by simply removing the remote receiver.

Instructions

1. Turn off the breaker at the main electrical panel that supplies power to the ceiling fan.

2. Remove the hanging bracket canopy from the ceiling. This will give you access to the wiring and the remote control receiver.

3. Disconnect the remote receiver. The receiver will be either round or rectangular in shape with two wires connected to one end of the receiver and three wires connected to the other end. Remove the wire nuts that are connecting the wiring together by untwisting them all. Remove the receiver.

4. Wire the ceiling fan directly to the power-supply wires in the electrical ceiling fan box. Locate the white wire from the electrical box and the white wire form the ceiling fan. Use an orange wire nut to connect these two wires by twisting the wire nut onto the wires. Locate the black wire from the electrical box and connect it with the remaining two wires you removed from the receiver. One wire will be black and the other wire will be labeled as the lighting wire. Twist an orange wire nut to all three wires. Gently push all the wiring into the electrical box.

5. Replace the ceiling fan canopy onto the ceiling.

6. Turn on the breaker at the main electrical panel that supplies power to the ceiling fan.

Tags: remote control, breaker main, breaker main electrical, convert switch, convert switch operation, electrical panel, electrical panel that

Calculate A Suspended Ceiling

Get some accurate measurements before you start buying suspended ceiling components.

Adding a suspended ceiling to an area like a basement is a fairly simple, attractive and cost-effective way of finishing the ceiling of the space. To make sure you don't waste your money by buying excess materials, a little planning is in order before you begin your project. With some measurements and simple calculations, you'll have a good grip on what you'll need to do the job right before you start.

Instructions

1. Measure the width and length of your ceiling with a tape measure. Record the dimensions onto a piece of graph paper.

2. Add up the dimensions for the room's perimeter in feet. You'll need this many feet of perimeter bracket. These are installed along the edge of the ceiling.

3. Divide the width of the room by four. Now multiply the length of the room by this number. This will determine the total number of feet of runners you'll need. The runners are installed in parallel from down the length of the room.

4. Divide the footage of the runners by two. This will determine the number of crosspieces you'll need. The crosspieces sit between the runners at 2-foot intervals.

5. Multiply the width and the length of the room in feet together. This will give you the total square footage of the ceiling. Divide this number by four to determine the number of ceiling tiles you'll need.

Tags: length room, This will, before start, ceiling Divide, determine number

Trimming A Beadboard Ceiling

Beadboard ceilings were common in the kitchens and on the porches of 19th century homes. Traditional beadboard is made of strips of tongue-and-groove would that range from 2 to 6 inches wide, with each board having a bead cut into one side of its face. When these boards are installed together to create a panel on a ceiling, they form an aesthetically pleasing pattern over the room.

Instructions

1. Select a crown molding with a style that is compatible with and from the same era as beadboard ceilings. A fairly simple profile is most appropriate for the simple look of beadboard.

2. Measure the distance along one side of the beadboard ceiling.

3. Cut a length of crown molding with 45 degree angles at its ends, its longest dimension matching the distance that you measured in Step 1. Set the blade of the miter saw at 45 degrees. Brace the crown molding against the back fence of the saw. Orient the crown molding in the same position as it will be when it is installed. Pass the blade through the crown molding slowly to avoid chipping.

4. Place this piece of crown in the corner between the beadboard ceiling and the wall. Nail the crown molding in place by driving 3-inch-long finish nails through its face and into the wall and ceiling. Countersink the heads of the nails beneath the surface of the crown molding using a nail set. Fill the holes with wood filler that matches the color of the wood.

5. Repeat Steps 1 through 3 for the three other sides of the ceiling.

Tags: crown molding, beadboard ceiling, crown molding with, molding with

Connect A Computer To A Ceilingmount Lcd Projector

Connect a Computer to a Ceiling-Mount LCD Projector

Lecture halls and classrooms provide a speaker or professor with an opportunity to speak to many people at a time about a specific subject. In many lecture halls, there is also a ceiling-mounted LCD projector and a screen to display things such as movies, video clips, and PowerPoint presentations. Many halls allow you to bring a computer to connect to the projector for this reason.

Instructions

1. Locate the VGA port for the ceiling-mounted projector. This is usually located in a conspicuous place, such as on a podium or a laptop stand. If there is no such port, you may need to connect the cable directly to the projector. Get help if the ceiling is too high for you to reach.

2. Connect the VGA port on the computer (located in the back of the device) to the VGA port using the VGA cable. Be sure that the cable is completely secure before proceeding to the next step.

3. Turn on the computer if it is not already on.

4. For laptops only: Switch your laptop to display on the screen using the function key. Refer to your manual for instructions on do this.

Tags: ceiling-mounted projector, Connect Computer

Hang A Canopy From The Ceiling Without Nails

A canopy bed brings instant romance to a room.

A ceiling canopy, particularly when placed over a bed, offers a unique way to create a canopy bed without needing a four-poster bed. If you live in a rental property, or if you simply do not want holes in your ceiling, you can hang a canopy from the ceiling without nails. The fabric used for canopies is typically quite sheer and lightweight, and does not require heavy-duty nails or hooks to stay up.

Instructions

1. Prepare the canopy fabric. If you purchased a premade canopy, this step will not be necessary. If you purchased fabric, all the edges will need to be hemmed to avoid fraying.

2. Apply the adhesive strips to the ceiling. Make sure that you use strips that are rated for a weight of at least one pound. Attach one strip in each of the four corners over the bed, and one directly over the center of the bed.

3. Attach the decorative hooks. Press the bottom of each hook firmly into each adhesive strip. Wiggle it slightly back and forth to make sure that the bond is secure.

4. Drape the fabric over the hooks. Start in the center of the bed and find the center of the fabric. Drape this fabric over the decorative hook. Go to each corner and drape each edge over the hook until all four corners are secured.

5. Arrange the fabric as necessary. Look at the canopy from a short distance away and make sure each edge is even. If necessary, unhook and pull the fabric tighter or looser until it is even, and then rehook the fabric.

Tags: canopy from, each edge, fabric over, four corners, make sure, sure that

Put Crown Molding On An Angled Ceiling

Molding adds visual interest to a ceiling, such as around this skylight.

A development in architecture is to create cathedral or angled ceilings. These are not flat but rather follow the slope of the roof. Traditionally, crown molding is placed on the point of intersection where the wall meets the ceiling. With a cathedral ceiling, lining up the corner angles "just right" is difficult since compound angles will have to be cut. With a special saw, called a compound miter saw, these angles can be obtained. The trick, however, is to understand the process involved with cutting compound angles.

Compound Angles Defined

A compound angle cut is difficult to visualize. Think of a picture frame. Each corner has an angle cut of 45 degrees, so the two pieces of molding line up at 90 degrees. This is a flat horizontal plane cut. Suppose the frame has to be lifted off the wall at an angle; you have to cut two angles. Cut the 45-degree angle to make the frame with 90-degree corners. Tilt the blade of the compound miter saw to cut the angle on the vertical plane, and you'll end up with two angles: one on the horizontal plane and one on the vertical plane. This is a compound angle and difficult to cut correctly.

Carpenter's Protractor Needed

A carpenter's protractor is a necessity to cut and fit compound angles. Find out the angle of the cathedral ceiling to the wall, and divide by two, which will give you the angle of the first cut. Tilt the blade of the miter saw to this angle. For the second cut, the angle is 45 degrees if the walls are perfectly square. In a home, this is never the case. Use your carpenter's protractor to find out the exact angle of one wall to the adjacent wall, and divide by two. Swing the blade of your saw over to this angle.

Altenative Method

If you do not have a carpenter's protractor or a miter saw, use an alternative method. You can always remove wood, but you can't put it back. Cut one molding flush with the walls with a small hand saw, as if you were fitting it to a flat ceiling. Using a rasp, hand fit the two moldings little by little so the angles mate up perfectly with no gaps. Use a pencil to draw lines where wood has to be removed. You will need a helper to hold up the molding pieces until the right fit is obtained, which is a slow and painstaking process since you will have to remove a little wood, refit and repeat the process until an ideal miter joint is obtained.

Practice on Scrap

Obtain some scrap molding or lumber the same dimension as the finish molding. Practice cutting the compound angles on scrap first. Chances are good you'll make mistakes on the first few attempts. The whole idea, though, is to make mistakes on cheap lumber instead of very expensive crown molding. Once you determine the right angles to cut and become proficient at it, graduate to cutting the final molding.

Tags: carpenter protractor, compound angles, angle degrees, angle difficult, cathedral ceiling

Code For Installing Cathedral Ceiling Insulation

A cathedral ceiling is a pitched ceiling that goes up through more than one floor. The sloping sides have the same pitch as the roof, and the ceiling is made by covering the bottoms of the roof rafters with ceiling material. Insulating your cathedral ceiling helps prevent heat loss in the winter and keeps your home cooler in the summer. However, a cathedral ceiling, unlike an attic floor located over a flat ceiling, has special requirements when it comes to insulation.

Spacing Requirements

The Model Energy Code, which is now known as the International Energy Code, is the residential energy code most states use. According to this code, cathedral ceilings must provide sufficient space between the roof deck and the ceiling for insulation and ventilation. This can be accomplished by using truss joists, scissor truss framing or large rafters.

R-Value

Insulation is rated on how well it resists the flow of heat. This number rating appears on the insulation and is referred to as its R value. Higher R values denote more efficient insulation. R values vary depending on the type of insulation, its density and its thickness. How effective an insulation is also depends on where and how it's installed. The Model Energy Code recommends that insulation used in a cathedral ceiling has an R value of 25 to 38 for most parts of the country.

Types

Several types of insulation can be used in cathedral ceilings as long as they're installed in a way that controls condensation. The 2009 edition of the International Energy Code includes a table that lists the minimum requirements for different climate zones. How the insulation is installed is also important. Rigid board or sheet insulation must be installed right above the roof sheathing, according to Section R806.4 of the International Energy Code. "Flash and batt" insulation consists of a spray foam that must be applied directly to the underside of the roof sheathing, according to the code, and an air-permeable insulation that's installed between the rafters. Foil-faced batt insulation is commonly used on cathedral ceilings because of its permeability rating. The code expressly forbids installing dense-packed cellulose insulation if you don't have ventilation channels.

Venting

Although the Model Energy Code originally required cathedral ceilings to have ventilation channels under the roof sheathing, builders are no longer required to do so. While ventilation channels prevent moisture from accumulating and reduce the chances of ice buildup, building scientists now think that builders should construct airtight ceilings that reduce the amount of heat that flows into ventilation channels. This can be accomplished by including air barriers and using thick insulation. Don't install fiberglass batts, mineral wool batts, dense-packed cellulose or blown-in fiberglass into an unvented cathedral ceiling unless you also use a layer of spray polyurethane foam or rigid foam panels right above or right below the roof sheathing. Air-permeable insulation, such as fiberglass batts, creates condensation problems that cause the roof sheathing to rot. Only spray foam or rigid foam insulation can meet code requirements for air-impermeability on a cathedral ceiling.

Tags: Energy Code, roof sheathing, cathedral ceiling, cathedral ceilings, ventilation channels

Wall Storage Ideas For The Garage Overhead Space

Make use of all wall and ceiling space in your garage.

When your garage is organized and well maintained, you always know where every item is and find it. Garages often have a high ceiling that gives you space for storage even though you might disregard or ignore the area. Look for ways to add storage to the overhead walls and ceiling area for both smaller and heavier things that you use frequently.

Hoist Systems

A hoist system is a must-have if you enjoy outdoor sports and adventures. The systems are specifically designed to hold both lightweight items and heavier items. Kayak hoists store kayaks, canoes and other lightweight boats above head, but makes pulling the boat down when needed easy. Similar systems are also available for cyclists, and the systems hold one or more bikes on the top of the wall or ceiling. The hoist systems use a pulley-type lever that lets you place the item on it and use the system to pull the item up above your head.

Metal Shelving Units

For heavy-duty items or a wide variety of items, opt for a metal storage unit. The units are made from durable metal that attaches directly to the upper part of the wall or the ceiling in your garage. The unit has an "L" shape, with one side of the "L" attaching to the wall and the other sticking out slightly for storage. Use the units to store items that you use less frequently as they aren't always easy to access. The units are also ideal for storing seasonal items, including Christmas decorations or gardening supplies. Rotate the items in and out of the unit at the beginning of each season.

Hanging Storage

For tools and other items that you use on a regular basis, invest in hanging storage. Install a large piece of pegboard on one wall of the garage, placing the top of the pegboard at the bottom of the ceiling. The small holes in the pegboard are the right size and shape for hanging hooks. Arrange tools, home supplies and outdoor equipment from the hooks.

Organization Systems

Make your own organizational system from heavy-duty metal garage shelving or outdoor shelving, screws and plastic bins. Hang the shelving from the walls, using a drill to screw through the shelves and into the garage wall. Arrange the shelves around the garage, giving you more storage areas. Use plastic storage bins to store items grouped by use, and write what the contents are on the outside of the box as a reminder.

Tags: wall ceiling, your garage, items that, store items

Replace A Crappy Ugly Drop Ceiling

Replace your old ceiling tiles with new ones for a fresh look.

As ceiling tiles age, they become dirty and stained, and begin to fall apart. Luckily, you can replace old ceiling tiles for new ones to give your drop ceiling a whole new look. This remodel dramatically improves a room's appearance in a relatively inexpensive and nonmessy way. Ceiling tiles come in two sizes: 2-foot by 2-foot squares and 2-foot by 4-foot rectangles. To avoid having to regrid the ceiling, purchase replacement ceiling tile that fits in your current grid.

Instructions

1. Stand on a ladder so you can easily reach the ceiling tiles. Use two hands to gently push an old ceiling tile up. Tilt the tile so it fits between the grid opening, and lower it out of the way.

2. Lift a new ceiling tile up to the grid opening. Tilt the tile so it fits through the opening. Straighten the tile, and gently lower it onto the grid. Repeat this step with the remaining ceiling tiles.

3. Cut new ceiling tiles to fit in smaller grid openings, using a utility knife. Remove the old ceiling tile and lay it on the new ceiling tile. Trace along the old tile's edges lightly, using a utility knife to mark where you need to cut. Remove the old tile and hold a straightedge against the score line on the new tile. Run the utility knife down the straightedge to finish cutting through the new tile, and then lift the tile into the grid opening.

Tags: ceiling tiles, ceiling tile, grid opening, utility knife, tile fits, Tilt tile

Replace Paneling In An Rv

Keep your RVs walls looking good and clean with new paneling.

Moisture, mildew and dry rot are all contributing factors to the erosion of RV wall paneling. When the RV wall panels are damaged or rotten and ready to go, replace the paneling yourself to save money. Replacing old panels in the RV requires cutting the replacement panels to the proper size and hanging. In addition, you must check that the insulation behind the panel is in proper shape. If not, replace the insulation along with the paneling.

Instructions

1. Pry off the old RV wall paneling using the pry tool or the flathead screwdriver. Gently pull the paneling off the wall and remove from the RV.

2. Inspect the insulation to see if it is eroded or saturated with mildew or mold. If so, pull it out and ready the wall for new insulation.

3. Measure the size of the panel to be replaced and cut it out from the replacement panels with the power saw. Cut down the insulation panels or rolls and stuff into the RV walls. If the studs for the RV cabin walls are hidden behind another panel or barrier, use the stud finder to locate studs to tack the replacement panels to.

4. Ask a helper to hold the panel over the RV wall to tack into position. Drill small wood screws into the four corners of the panelling to attach to the wall. Pay attention to lining up the seams of the remaining panels.

5. Wipe away any excess dust, wood chips or insulation after hanging the new paneling.

Tags: replacement panels, wall paneling, with paneling

Deal With Low Ceilings In A Basement Remodel

A low basement ceiling makes the room look small and dark.

Low ceilings in a basement remodel are a common problem in older homes. There's not much remodelers can do about the actual height of the ceiling, so techniques to fool the eye into thinking the room is larger and the ceiling higher come into play. Adding color and light is the simplest way to address the problem. Other fixes involve an investment in furnishings, a little bit of physical labor and a modicum of expertise.

Instructions

1. Check to see if you can raise the ceiling. A drop ceiling that takes up some of the room's height is fairly simple to remove. Once it's removed, hang sheetrock from the floor joists above or leave the room as is. Ducting and pipes may have a loft/industrial look, which you can use as a theme for the rest of the d cor if you choose not to hang sheetrock.

2. Turn joists into beams if there is no ductwork or wiring in the ceiling of the room. Paint the spaces between the joists white. Paint the joists a slightly darker color, but avoid painting them dark brown or black. That will make the ceiling look lower. Keep in mind that you will lose insulation and sound proofing with this method.

3. Paint the room a light color and leave the ceiling white. This makes the room appear more spacious and draws attention from the low ceiling. An accent wall painted a striking color will also draw attention away from the ceiling.

4. Build floor-to-ceiling open shelving. The light colored paint behind the shelving provides the impression that the room is larger and the use of floor-to-ceiling shelving tricks the eye into believing the ceiling is higher than it is.

5. Install recessed lighting rather than hanging lamps. Can lights in the ceiling and floor spot lights combine to provide plenty of illumination. When the ceiling is brightened, it appears higher. If you can't install recessed lighting in the ceiling, use a series of track lights around the edges of the room, rather than in the center.

6. Use smaller-scale furniture with clean lines. Large furniture emphasizes the height of the ceiling and ornate furniture tends to seem large, even if it isn't. Place easy chairs in groupings away from the wall with simple tables between them rather than using a large sectional and coffee table. Use area rugs to help define the seating areas.

7. Use decorative columns or half-walls to define spaces, rather than building walls. Open spaces help create the illusion of height. Consider making a focal point of a half-wall by building it out of glass block and incorporating string lights in the design. This draws the eye away from the ceiling.

Tags: rather than, away from, from ceiling, away from ceiling, ceiling higher

Types Of Fan Motors

Fans run off of different types of motors based on their sizes.

There are a variety of different types of motors which allow fans to run consistently over a long period of time, depending on the type of fan and its purpose. Many of these motors have different phases and starting capacities based on their applications, which range from household fans to cooling fans used in large, heavy-duty pieces of equipment like air conditioning units and industrial equipment.

Single-phase Motor

Single-phase motors are the most common fan motors, as they are in most smaller fans and operate off alternating current (AC) power. Each cycle dips and peaks as electricity runs through it, making it a motor which runs off a low amount of electricity, costing little money and putting little strain on the motor's mechanical operations. This allows these motors to last for a long period of time without breaking down. These motors can also be converted to different phases, but it is usually less expensive to just buy a larger motor than convert a single-phase motor.

Split-phase Motor

Split-phase motors are used for larger industrial fans, or fans in larger pieces of equipment which have a medium amount of electricity running through them. These motors have start and run windings, both of which are energized when the motor is started, allowing a large amount of durability over a longer period of time. However, due to the fact these motors are often used with heavy-duty pieces of equipment which are put under increased strain, many of these split-phase motors have automatic shut-offs so they do not burn out and have to be replaced.

Capacitor-start Motors

Capacitor-start motors are used almost solely for fans which are part of larger pieces of industrial equipment. This motor has a capacitor in a series with a starting winding. It provides more than double the torque with less current then the split-phase motor, allowing it to start and run effectively with heavy loads and increased strain. There is also a safety shut-off on many of these capacitor-start fan motors so they don't burn out and become a costly replacement part. These motors are supposed to shut down once they have reached 75 percent of their load capacity, though this can be disabled.

Tags: motors have, period time, pieces equipment, amount electricity, based their

Get A Cat Down Out Of The Basement Rafters

Get your cat down by luring it with treats.

Cats love to climb, including to places you wish they rather wouldn't. As a general rule, anywhere cats can get to, they can get down from, so while they may not be "trapped" in rafters, their climbing into those areas may put them at risk of being injured, exploring areas that lead into crawl spaces or outside, or even cause damage to your home. There are easy solutions to this problem, both intervention and prevention.

Instructions

The first step is to prevent the problem in the first place. Here are some ways to do just that.

1. Give the cat an alternative. Cats like to climb, so give them something more appropriate, such as a climbing tree or a combination of furniture to give them a place to scale the heights.

2. Secure the rafters from being reachable. If you've been considering closing them in with a drop ceiling, here's another reason to do so. If the space where they are accessible is limited, consider covering them with plastic sheeting, or even a bed sheet. Anything that essentially blocks the rafters from easy access will work.

3. Remove avenues of entry. Move any furniture or other raised areas that serve as your cat's gateway, allowing them to get high enough to jump into the rafters themselves. You may also decide that your cat being in the basement period is not necessary. If so, then keep your basement door closed or install a pet gate sufficiently high to deter your cat's desire to leap it.

4. Tape or foil the rafters to deter your cat. Applying strips of double-sided tape to the top of your rafters, or laying sheets of aluminum foil over the rafters will deter your cat from either jumping up period, or discourage it from remaining if it gets up there at all. Cats do not like to walk on loose covering or sticky surfaces.

If the cat is already stuck in the rafters, you can try the following steps.

5. Talk to your cat in a warm, loving tone, calling it to you. It is much more likely to come to you if it doesn't think it is in trouble once it gets there.

6. Lure your cat with a toy, treat or other more promising reward that trumps the fun in the rafters.

7. Be patient. Do not try to forcibly grab your cat as you might scare it and make it climb higher up.

Tags: deter your, areas that, Cats like, gets there, give them, rafters from, them with

Shop For Ceiling Fans

Shopping for a ceiling fan takes patience.

Ceiling fans have multiple benefits, including stirring up breezes in the summer and forcing warm air downward in the winter. Running a ceiling fan during the winter can save heating energy. In addition, a ceiling fan fixture can bring character to a room, whether it is a living room, kitchen, bedroom or even a garage or porch. However, purchasing a ceiling fan that is suitable for a particular room requires attention to detail.

Instructions

1. Decide on your budget. As you shop for a ceiling fan, stick to it.

2. Determine whether you need a 42-inch fan, designed for smaller rooms that are about 150 square feet or under, or a 52-inch fan for larger rooms that are about 400 square feet and under. The 52-inch fan typically is appropriate for most rooms. Make sure the size of the fan does not look out of place aesthetically in your room. Also, note that smaller fans run faster and thus are more prone to producing noise. In addition, smaller fans must work harder to cover bigger areas.

3. Look for ceiling fans that have stack motors, which are powerful, efficient and quiet. Although some direct-drive motors also can be good quality, others can be extremely cheap, but you will not go wrong with a stack motor. The motor is the most important component of a fan to consider when shopping, as the best motor will move the most air quietly.

4. Measure the distance between your floor and the ceiling in the space you would like to install a fan. Ideally, fan blades should be no less than 7 feet from the floor. In addition, choose fan blades that are solid multi-ply furniture grade wood and have multiple coats of lacquer or are brass-plated, which points to durability. Most residential fans have four to five blades, which should be adequate for moving air.

5. Examine the features of your chosen ceiling fans. For example, decide whether you want a fan that has a built-in three-speed pull-chain control or a fan that has a reverse switch built into the fan body. Some fans are controlled by a pull-chain while the light is controlled by a wall switch, or vice versa. Also, inquire about which companies offer fans with remote speed and light control options, which allow you to control them using a wall-mounted or handheld unit.

6. Search for a fan color that matches the d cor of the space in which you want to install the fan. In addition, check the warranty to make sure it not only covers the motor but also other parts that could fail, such as the switches and other electronics.

Tags: about square, about square feet, ceiling fans, fans have, feet under

Light Fixtures In Kid'S Rooms

Lighting a kid's room should bring fun and add creativity to the space.

Decorating a child's room can be a fun adventure for parents. Selecting colors and d cor for younger family members offers an array of color, texture and pattern options not suitable for more mature settings. Lighting is one place where this creativity can be put to good use. Select colorful, cutesy designs, a mature, vibrant globe style or something that reflects the child's interest. Whatever the choice, it will pull the look together for the room's owner.

Shapes

Selecting a fun-shaped ceiling fixture is one route parents can take. These types of lamps come in a number of styles; the most popular are sports themes and air craft. Hunter, a major ceiling fan manufacturer produces a baseball theme fan/light combination with baseball bat-shaped blades and a light cover painted like a baseball. There are also football, soccer and even NASCAR table lamps available in a number of colors from several manufacturers. For aerospace enthusiasts, a number of manufacturers produce space ship and airplane designs in both metal and multi-colored wood. Lamps with rocket-shaped mobiles or some designed to look like a prop plane propeller are also available.

Chandeliers

Chandeliers are a somewhat feminine style that can add a bit of visual interest to a little girl's room no matter what color or shape you choose. Instead of the large varieties commonly seen in dining rooms and foyers, select one of the miniaturized types from a home improvement or decorating store. Pottery Barn Kid's offers a line, including a mini bird cage and a pair with pink or blue lampshades, either of which would work well in a kid's room.

Globes and Chinese Lanterns

Globes and lanterns are a bit more modern for kid's rooms and could work for both a boy and girl. These styles come in glass or paper and can be found in just about any color and size imaginable. Both types are diverse in their styles and neither is restricted to the center of the ceiling. They come in both hanging and table top designs, and some are also free-standing so can be arranged at the back or either side of the room. The multi-toned rice paper, silk or glass can make for interesting colors and patterns when the pieces or lit. The light emitted from these styles often reflects the color of the shade.

Do it Yourself

For super crafty parents and children, a do-it-yourself fan may be the ticket. Instead of purchasing a pre-colored or styled light fixture, select a plain model and color it by hand. The best option is a plain white model that is either wood or ceramic. Most of these will be finished with a white, cream or off-white base coat, many of which can be painted over using water based paints. Lamps Plus, a nationwide and online retailer, offers customers the option of designing their own lamps, which may be ideal for less-than-handy families.

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Unscrew Overhead Dome Light Fixtures

Use a slotted screwdriver to remove a dome light fixture.

Dome light fixtures are common household items. This type of fixture features a base that houses the electrical components and is attached directly to the ceiling. Light bulbs are attached to the base and are covered by glass domes. Depending on the quality of the fixture, the glass dome may be heavy. A single threaded knob with a cap holds the glass dome in place. The trick to removing the dome is being in the right spot. Use a sturdy ladder to easily access the overhead fixture.

Instructions

1. Place an A-frame ladder under the light fixture. Climb the ladder, and make sure you are able to grasp the dome of the light and unscrew it at the same time from that location.

2. Push up on the dome of the light fixture with the hand you use the least; right-handed individuals should use the left hand, while left-handed people should use the right.

3. Grasp the center knob and turn it in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the knob and dome cap that secure the glass in place. Bring down the glass dome down gently.

4. Turn off the power at the electrical box if you're removing the dome light fixture base.

5. Remove the fasteners located on the fixture base, using the correct screwdriver, such as a Phillips or slotted version. Pull the fixture base down to expose the hanging bracket and wiring.

Tags: light fixture, dome light, dome light fixture, fixture base, glass dome

Remove A Fan Switch In A Bathroom With Doublepole Fanswitch Wiring

Terminal screws on the sides of a switch hold the wires in place.

Removing an electrical switch is a fairly straightforward maintenance task, but you do need to exercise extreme caution when doing it as you're dealing with electricity. This is especially true when removing a double-pole switch. This is a switch that is designed for use with large electrical appliances, such as water heaters or some larger fans. The process for removing a double-pole switch is essentially the same as removing a standard single-pole switch, but you have two extra wires to remove.

Instructions

1. Turn off the circuit for the fan at your home's main electrical box.

2. Take the cover plate off the wall.

3. Check the circuit to make sure it's off by touching the probes of a voltage tester to the terminal screws on the sides of the switch. If you get a reading, the circuit is still live, and you need to shut it off at the main box. If you get shocked from a 240-volt line, it will kill you.

4. Unscrew the mounting screws that hold the switch in place, and pull it out of the electrical box inside the wall.

5. Loosen the terminal screws around the sides of the switch, and unhook the wires from the switch.

6. Untwist the plastic connector cap that attaches the ground wire. Keep the wires apart from each other so they don't come into contact. Taping them to the wall temporarily is one option.

Tags: sides switch, double-pole switch, removing double-pole, removing double-pole switch, screws sides

Easy Ways To Improve A Horse Barn

Clean up any construction materials that are dangerous to horses.

With a little effort you can make improvements to your horse barn that make your horses more comfortable, preserve the life of your tack, or enhance your feed storage area. Any time you are constructing or building in a horse area, you should clean the area thoroughly and never allow horses in unfinished areas with splintered wood, protruding nails, or around other hazardous items.

Insulation

Adding insulation can increase comfort and save money.

Insulation can increase both your and your horses' comfort in either predominantly warm or cold climates, and also offers noise protection. An insulated room for storing grain can prevent spoilage, particularly in warm, humid climates. If you cannot afford to insulate the entire barn immediately, consider insulating just the tack room, allowing you to better control the temperature for tack storage. This preserves the investment that you have in your tack, prolonging its life.

Fans

Ceiling fans are economical and provide air flow in hot summer months.

Your barn must be ventilated and allow adequate air flow. If your barn is fairly enclosed, it may get unbearably warm when summer temperatures soar. Adding ceiling or wall fans throughout the barn, or in individual stalls, can help your horses stay cool and healthy in summer months. Make sure you install them high and far enough away from the horses so there is no contact if your horse rears or bucks, and that you secure any wall-mounted fans sufficiently.

Automatic Waterers

Automatic watering systems are a time-saver and are not prohibitively expensive to install. These systems ensure that your horse has continuous access to clean drinking water in his stall 24 hours a day, without hauling water in buckets or dragging a hose from stall to stall. Take your horse to a barn with automatic waterers to see if he will drink from one, as it can take some horses time to adapt.

Non-slip Flooring

Installing a non-slip surface to your barn floor, such as rubber mats or interlocking blocks, improves the safety and comfort of horses and the humans around them. In stalls, the cushion is easier on horses' feet and joints, and installing it partially up the stall wall adds even more protection for your equines. Rubber mats in the barn aisle can prevent your horse from slipping, particularly if you have a cement aisle. They are also comfortable for those working on your horses, such as veterinarians or farriers.

Tags: your horse, your horses, horse barn, summer months, your barn

Install Wood Paneling On The Ceiling

Wood paneling installed on a ceiling.

Wood paneling on a ceiling is a beautiful architectural element. Paneling on the ceiling adds texture to what may be an otherwise bland space. You can install wood paneling on your ceiling but understand this is a tiring job that requires a lot of time standing on a ladder. The proper information will get you started.

Instructions

1. Use a stud finder to locate the ceiling joists. Mark the joists with a pencil and snap each of the lines with a chalk line. This will make the location of the joists easy to see. Whenever possible, install the planks perpendicular to the ceiling joists. This will make the wood paneling stronger.

2. Measure the length of the ceiling. This will help to give you a good idea of how long each of your ceiling planks needs to be. Since you are using tongue-and-groove planks, you will need to cut off the tongue from the side of the plank that will butt up to the wall. Use a miter saw to cut the ends of the plank.

3. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the back of the first plank to be installed. While standing on a ladder, push the plank into place next to the walls. Carefully pull the plank down and then push it up again into place. This will help to evenly spread the construction adhesive to the back of the plank. Use a pneumatic nail gun to nail the plank into the ceiling joist.

4. Install all of the planks in the same manner that you installed the first plank. However, with the consecutive planks you need to make sure that you are placing the tongue into the groove of the previous plank. This will strengthen the planks. As you come upon light fixtures and other ceiling obstructions, measure and mark the planks and use a jig saw to cut the wood paneling to size.

5. Measure and cut the final row of planks. Most likely the planks in the final row will be smaller than the whole planks. Measure the space for the plank and rip the plank to size on the table saw. You will need to cut the bottom lip of the groove off from the last board so that the last plank will drop easily into place even in a tight space.

Tags: This will, into place, wood paneling, adhesive back, ceiling joists, construction adhesive, construction adhesive back

Dual Slider Switch Ceiling Fan Wiring

Wire your own dual slider wall control switch with a few basic tools.

A dual slider switch controls both the speed of a ceiling fan and the luminance of its attached lamp assembly from one location. The dual slider switch is configured with two variable rheostats which control voltage output, and therefore is not limited to three preset fan speeds operated by a chain-pull or the on and off of the single-pole light switch. Do-it-yourself homeowners with basic electrical experience can wire their own dual slider switches if they have the correct hand tools and a voltage tester.

Instructions

1. Turn off electrical power to the circuit intended for the fan switch. Test the circuit supply wires with the 120-volt tester to verify that no current exists by placing one probe of the tester on the black supply wire and the other probe on the white neutral wire.

2. Strip the ends of the wires on the dual slider switch 3/8 inches using the wire stripping pliers. One is yellow, one red and one black.

3. Strip 1/2 inches from the ends of the three-conductor wire at the switch box with the pliers. One is black, one is red and one is white.

4. Connect the bare copper ground wire from the three-conductor cable to the bare copper ground of the power supply using a wire nut. Turn the nut in a clockwise direction while applying downward pressure over the wire tips until tight.

5. Connect the white neutral wire from the three-conductor cable to the white neutral of the power supply wire using a wire nut. Twist the nut by hand until tight. Make sure no bare conductor is exposed after tightening.

6. Connect the black wire from the power supply to the black wire on the dual slider switch with a wire nut.

7. Connect the red wire from the three-conductor cable to the yellow wire of the switch with a wire nut.

8. Connect the black wire from the three-conductor cable to the red wire on the switch with a wire nut.

9. Check each wire nut connection for tightness and security. Apply electrical tape around each wire nut, overlapping tape to provide a good seal between the base of the nut and the wire.

10. Install switch.

11. Connect the red wire from the three-conductor cable to the ceiling fan wire marked for the light fixture. Use a wire nut to join the two wires together. Ceiling fan wires are specifically labeled from the factory and can be readily identified one from the other.

12. Connect the black wire from the three-conductor cable to the wire marked for fan operation with a wire nut. These wires are marked "Fan" or "Motor," depending on the preference of the manufacturer.

13. Connect the white neutral wire from the three-conductor cable to the white wire from the fan with a wire nut.

14. Form a loop at the end of the bare copper ground wire from the three-conductor cable with the needle-nose pliers. Connect the bare copper wire and the green ground wire from the fan assembly to the ground connection post in the ceiling electrical box using the appropriate tip screwdriver.

15. Complete fan installation according to fan manufacturer specifications.

16. Restore power to the fan circuit.

Tags: wire from, from three-conductor, from three-conductor cable, three-conductor cable, wire from three-conductor, dual slider, switch with

Replace Ceiling Registers

Heating and cooling registers, whether for ceilng, floor or wall installation, come in a variety of sizes, finishes and decors.

Registers help direct heat or air conditioning into rooms and can be found on floors, walls or ceilings. Over time, registers can become rusty or loose and may require replacement. Replacing ceiling registers, which are available at most home improvement centers or hardware stores, is a simple process once you know the exact sizes needed to fit the vent openings.

Instructions

1. Place a step ladder under the ceiling registers you want to replace. Put on safety goggles to protect your eyes from falling dirt and debris as you remove the registers.

2. Remove the screws securing the registers to the ceiling. Most often a flat-head screwdriver is necessary, although some registers may require a Phillips-head screwdriver.

3. Pull the registers away from the ceiling and duct. Measure the length and width of the register openings with a tape measure. Take the measurements with you so you can purchase registers that properly fit the duct openings.

4. Insert the new ceiling registers into the openings and secure them with the retaining screws.

Tags: ceiling registers

Replace Ceiling Panels

Use a long enough ladder for safe and easy access to the ceiling.

The great thing about a ceiling with panels is that damage due to roof leaks, mold or other problems is easy to repair. Unlike damaged drywall where you have to cut, patch and repaint, a panel can simply be replaced. How a panel is replaced differs depending on whether you have a suspended ceiling where panels are dropped into a grid of support tracks, or a ceiling with tongue and groove panels which are interlocking and attached to furring strips.

Instructions

Tongue and Groove Ceiling

1. Climb a ladder for close access to the panel.

2. Score the seams carefully with a utility knife to sever the joints. Cut a square hole out of the middle of the panel to create an edge for inserting a pry bar.

3. Remove the panel by inserting a pry bar in the center hole you've created. Trying to pry off the panel from the seams can damage adjacent tiles.

4. Remove any nails or staples from the furring strips with the pry bar.

5. Scrape off old adhesive from the furring strips with a putty knife.

6. Apply a bead of panel adhesive to the furring strips. Panel adhesive comes in a caulk tube and is extruded from a caulk gun.

7. Cut the tongue off one edge of a new ceiling panel so it will fit into the hole.

8. Insert the remaining tongue into the groove of an adjacent ceiling panel and press the panel onto the adhesive.

Suspended Ceiling

9. Climb a ladder for close access to the panel.

10. Push up on the panel with both hands and pop it out of the tracks.

11. Turn the panel at an angle, then bring it down and out of the grid.

12. Hold a new panel at an angle and slide it up through the empty space.

13. Position the panel flatly and lower it onto the tracks.

Tags: furring strips, access panel, Ceiling Climb, Ceiling Climb ladder, ceiling panel

Service A Ceiling Fan

A ceiling fan is a great addition to any home because it can cool a room in the summer, and warm it in the winter. Servicing a ceiling fan will add to the fan's life expectancy. It is also important to properly maintain a fan in order to avoid potential safety hazards. Ceiling fans usually don't need a lot of maintenance, but they do require some. Unless it has become severely damaged, servicing a ceiling fan is relatively easy.

Instructions

Maintenance

1. Clean dust and dirt from the ceiling fan's blades at least once a year, or as needed. Clean the blades with a rag or a brush. Ceiling fan brushes can be found at home improvement stores.

2. Tighten any loose screws on the fan, or the screws that attach the fan to the plate on the ceiling. Many ceiling fans have light fixtures. Tighten the screws on the light fixtures as well.

3. Check to see if the fan requires oil. Many ceiling fans are maintenance-free and lubricate themselves. Others require periodic lubrication. Turn the fan off and find the oil hole above the motor. Add light machine oil until it flows over the top of the hole. Remove excess oil with a rag.

4. Look at the ceiling fan to see if it wobbles or shakes. The middle of the fan should be nearly completely still while the fan is in operation. If the fan wobbles or spins, it may need to be balanced. You can balance a fan with a fan balancing kit. Fans that wobble and shake may also have a damaged blade. Look to see if any of the blades are missing a piece, or appear bent. Fan blades can also become warped. Remove all the blades and place them on top of each other. Look to see if one blade does not evenly fit on top of the others.

5. Check the manual of your ceiling fan to see if any special maintenance steps are recommended.

Tags: ceiling fans, light fixtures, Many ceiling, Many ceiling fans

Take Down A Drop Ceiling Panel

Ceiling panels must be removed to gain access to hidden wiring.

Drop ceilings may look attractive --- until you have to replace one or more panels. Removing a panel from a drop ceiling may look easy, but it must be done in a certain way. Regardless of the type of drop ceiling you have, the panels are removable, allowing for cleaning or replacement. Checking the panels occasionally also ensures that nothing is trapped or damaged above the ceiling.

Create Hanging Bicycle Storage

The distance between bicycle wheels vary based on model and design.

Bicycles can take up a lot of space when set up on the floor propped up on their stands. If you have only a one-car garage or live in a small, cramped apartment, space is valuable. Clear out the floor by hanging your bikes from the ceiling in a corner of the room or garage. This is an especially good idea if you have high enough ceilings that you can still keep other storage beneath the hanging bicycle.

Instructions

1. Prop up the bicycle on the bike stand so you have easy access to the wheels. Measure the bicycle from wheel to wheel at the points where the tires touch the ground. This distance can vary based on the type of bike. If you're hanging more than one bicycle, measure each one before proceeding.

2. Locate a joist in the ceiling where you want to hang the bike. In a garage with an open ceiling, choose a wooden joist beam that will run the length of your bike. If your ceiling is covered in drywall, use a stud finder to locate the joists. Measure out the length you wrote down for your bike, marking the beginning and end of the length with a pencil to indicate where to install the bike hooks.

3. Install a bicycle hook into each point that you marked. Use standard bicycle hooks as these are designed to fit around wheel rims and can hold the bike's weight. Follow the directions that came with your bike hooks for installation as each brand has a different protocol.

4. Install more bike hooks for each bicycle you need to hang. Ensure that you have enough space around each bike to accommodate the handlebars and pedals that take up extra space.