Position track lighting perpendicularly across multiple islands for an efficient configuration.
Many people feel that kitchens are the heart of the home, where families come together and spend time with one another. To reap the most benefit from your kitchen, design it well and designate areas for different activities that will take place there. One of the most important accessories to set off these areas will be the lighting. Every kitchen needs three types: general lighting, or the large center fixture in the center of the room, accent lighting, such as small lamps or candles placed on countertops, and task lighting, the illumination above work areas like islands.
Instructions
1. Select task lighting for over an island. An island is typically the surface where cooking preparation will take place, among other kitchen chores. Task lighting provides the brightness necessary to see what you are doing.
2. Choose under cabinet task lights if there are hanging cabinets over your island. These lights attach, as their name suggests, to the underside of the cabinets. They can be wired to a wall switch or operated with self-contained controls to flood the island with light.
3. Decide between track lighting and pendant lights. Go with pendant fixtures for shorter islands that only need one or two separate lights. Install longer track lights above very long islands, as four or five separate lights will not look as awkward in this configuration.
4. Use fluorescent light bulbs in the lighting fixtures over your island. While incandescent bulbs can lend a soft glow to breakfast nooks and dining rooms, they do not provide enough light for the kitchen itself. Avoid chopping off a finger by utilizing the brightest wattage that your light fixture can support.
Tags: over your, over your island, separate lights, take place, task lighting, track lighting, will take
Suspended or "drop" ceilings are one way to lower the ceiling in a room or finish off a room addition. Armstrong is a well-known manufacturer of ceiling tiles for suspended ceilings. When the ceiling grid is installed correctly, the majority of the ceiling tiles will fit without modification. However, borders and odd portions of the grid do require cutting of the ceiling tiles to fit. When you cut Armstrong ceiling panels to size, always make sure that the blade in your knife is sharp for a precise cut.
Instructions
1. Measure the width and length of the grid with a tape measure. Subtract ¼ inch from each measurement.
2. Place the Armstrong ceiling panel face up on a flat surface. Transfer the measurement to the ceiling tile. Place a straight edge at the measurements and draw a cut line lightly with a pencil.
3. Extend the blade fully on a utility knife. Cut the ceiling tile along the cut line with the utility knife.
4. Pull the excess pieces away from the Armstrong ceiling tile. Insert the tile into the ceiling grid and test the fit.
5. Lightly trace the grid onto the ceiling tile with a pencil, if you want to cut a reveal along the edges of the tile for a recessed appearance. Remove the ceiling tile from the grid and place it face up on a flat surface.
6. Cut halfway through the ceiling tile along the tracing with the utility knife. Place the utility knife on its side and cut along the outer edge of the tile. Remove the cut pieces away from the ceiling tile, and insert the tile into the ceiling grid.
In most cases, I wouldn't recommend that you install a ceiling light fixture without a junction box, but for some applications, it does allow the job to be completed a little easier and a little faster. The primary difference is that you will have to use a light fixture that has an enclosed back. You should never install an open-backed light fixture without a junction box. So, if you have a closed-back light fixture and you want a quick and easy way to install it to your ceiling, here's how.
Instructions
1. Look on the back side of the light fixture to determine if there is a knockout hole available or if you will have to drill one.
2. Disassemble the light fixture and knock out the knockout or drill the access hole using a 3/4-inch hole saw.
3. Measure out the ceiling to determine where you are going to be installing the light fixture. Mark the point with your pencil and use a stud finder to ensure that you are not installing it over a stud. Make sure that you disconnect electrical power to the room before continuing.
4. Make a small hole in the ceiling using a hammer.
5. Use the wire-pulling fish to help you get the feed wire to the hole you just opened up. Make sure the wire is not live at the time. The feed wire is the cable that is delivering power to the light from the switch. If there is no existing switch, then you will have to install a new circuit to the room or tie into an existing one.
6. Take the Romex connector and slide it over the cable once you have it coming out of the ceiling hole. Leave about 8 to 12 inches of cable coming out of the clamp. Remove the lock nut from the connector.
7. Strip away the outer sheath from the length of cable coming out of the connector. Cut away the sheath and any paper insulation included.
8. Insert the wires through the access hole on the back side of the light fixture and hold the fixture to the ceiling. Mark with a pencil where you will be installing the toggle bolts. Then, remove the fixture and set it down.
9. Use a screwdriver and the hammer to make holes just big enough for the toggles to fit through (but don't insert them yet).
10. Insert the bolt end of the toggle bolts going from the inside of the fixture through the back and then screw the toggle component about halfway down the length of the threads.
11. Lift the light fixture, insert the wires back through the access hole and slide the toggle bolts up into the holes you made for them. Once they open up inside the ceiling, you can let go of the fixture.
12. Slide the lock nut over the wires and use it to secure the Romex connector to the light fixture. Then, tighten the until the light fixture is secure against the ceiling.
13. Cut any excess wire away and strip about 3/4 inch of insulation from the ends of each wire.
14. Connect the black ceiling wire with the black fixture wire, the white ceiling wire to the white fixture wire and the ground either to the fixture's ground wire or directly to the fixture's ground screw.
15. Reassemble the fixture and insert the bulbs and cover lens.
16. Restore power to the circuit and hit the switch.
Tags: light fixture, toggle bolts, access hole, ceiling wire, will have
High Definition is no longer just for televisions. Several HD projectors are on the market that can project an image onto a screen to give your home theater system the complete movie experience. In order to get the best experience possible, you need to mount the screen correctly. Mounting the screen in the correct place can seem like a nightmare on first inspection, but by taking your time you can mount your projector without the need for adjustment.
Instructions
1. Tie a knot in one end of the string and attach it to the top right corner of your screen. (You can use tape or an assistant for this. You just need the string to be touching the corner for this to work). Pull the string so that it is in the manufacturer's recommended throw distance (this is in the instruction manual that came with the projector). Tie a pencil to the other end of the string, and make an arc on the ceiling at this point in the center of the room.
2. Repeat Step 1 but place the string on the top left corner. The string needs to be exactly the same length as it was in Step 1. When you make the arc in center of the room, it should cross the first arc at the exact center of the room. This is the position of your mount.
3. Place the mounting plate of the projector mount on the ceiling at the location of the "X" you made with the pencil. Make marks on the ceiling with the pencil at the locations of the bolts for the mounting plate. Drill into the ceiling using the same size bit as the mounting bolts. They will fit through the holes in the mounting plate (use the plate to determine size). Hammer the anchors into the ceiling. Place the plate on the ceiling, and screw the bolts through the plate into the ceiling.
4. Attach the projector to the projector mount. If you have a universal mount, there may be several arms that you can attach the projector to. Follow the directions on the amount to get the best fit for the projector you have. The projector should be snug on the mount, but still have some room to maneuver if need be.
5. Loosely attach the projector mount to the mounting plate and turn the projector on. Inspect the projection to determine if it is hitting any part of the wall above the screen. If it is, it needs to be lowered. Measure the distance between the top of the projection and the top of the screen. Whatever this measurement is, that is the distance you need to lower the projector. At a home improvement store, ask to have a piece of steel pipe cut in that length (the width of the pipe is determined by the projector mount). Get the pipe notched at the store so you can screw it into the parts of the projector mount
6. Screw one end of the steel pipe to the mounting plate and the other end to the projector mount to provide more distance between the mounting plate and the mount itself. Run all of the cables you need to the projector and turn the projector on. It should project an image completely on the screen.
Tags: mounting plate, projector mount, center room, into ceiling, distance between, project image, projector should
Drapery hung from the ceiling can soar overhead or extend down to serve as a reception backdrop.
Some wedding venues have soaring, elaborate ceilings, while others need some decorative touches. Both can be enhanced with drapery. Used in countless configurations, drapery of all kinds of colors, materials, and finishes can pull together a room or add drama to an otherwise simple one. the ceiling also can extend down, adding a clean backdrop to your space or setting a mysterious, exotic mood. Once you figure out the feel of your wedding, drapes can help make the right impression.
Instructions
1. Study pictures online or in wedding magazines to see designs from what professional decorators have done. When you know what kind of look you want, talk to venue management. They may have rules about what can be hung from the ceiling, and they might require that their maintenance staff do the actual installation. If they host many weddings, they may be able to provide you with all necessary materials.
2. Calculate how much drapery you will need. Measure the width, length, and height of the room, noting any irregularities or obstacles that might alter your plans. Remember that drapery running across the ceiling will not likely be pulled taut, so the length of fabric will need to be longer than the actual size of the room.
3. Buy a ready-made kit, available online, or have drapery fabric cut to size. Professional kits consist of a metal hoop threaded through one end of each piece of fabric. The hoop is anchored to the middle of the room, and the opposite ends are pulled up and secured. If you work with your own fabric, buy drapery hooks, which are made to support the weight of fabric hanging from the ceiling.
4. Install the anchors. Rooms with rafters, or drop ceilings, which tend to have a metal grid extending across the room, offer plenty of places to install hooks. Otherwise, you will have to work with event management to make a plan for installing anchors in different locations.
5. Secure all pieces to the middle of the room first, and then measure to figure out the best placement for the opposite ends. Before securing, you may want to twist the fabric or incorporate other decorative techniques. For the simplest designs, use thin pieces of drapery extending from the center of the room, arcing down gently, and then attached back to the ceiling along the perimeter of the room; you will have to connect each piece of fabric in two places.
Tags: from ceiling, hung from, hung from ceiling, Drapery hung, Drapery hung from, each piece, each piece fabric
Ceiling medallions come in many styles and materials.
Most of us are familiar with Michelangelo's work on the Sistine Chapel, but have you ever wondered how the idea of putting something decorative on the ceiling got started? Ceiling medallions have been adorning opulent homes since ancient times.
History
Ceiling medallions may be traced to the Middle East, though their exact origin and time period of original use are unknown. However, their popularity spread throughout Europe, with designers in France and Italy becoming particularly fond of them.
Styles
Many styles have been incorporated in ceiling medallions over the centuries, including Neoclassical (heavily influenced by Greek and Roman art and architecture), Georgian, Baroque, Adam (known as Federal style in the United States), Empire (borrowing heavily from the arches used in Parisian architecture), Victorian and Art Nouveau.
Materials
Historically, were fashioned from marble, plaster, or iron. Artisans carefully carved and painted ornate, detailed designs that took several months or even years to create. Today, medallions are made of much lighter materials such as polyurethane and wood.
Purpose
Especially in its earliest days, the ceiling medallion was often the focal point of the room. Once gaslights and other modern lighting fixtures became available, the ceiling medallion was used to draw the eye to lighting fixtures attached to the ceiling.
Uses Today
Today, are used in restoring period homes and other buildings, as well as providing a touch of elegance to modern homes. As the some of the materials used today are lightweight, almost anyone can install a ceiling medallion.
Tags: ceiling medallion, ceiling medallions, Ceiling medallions, have been, History Ceiling
Mostly seen in homes built in the 1960s and 1970s, popcorn textured ceilings are inexpensive and can be applied to the ceiling with ease. They can also be removed quickly. If you don't like the way your popcorn textured ceiling looks, or if it's beginning to crumble, don't call in the professionals to take it down. Instead, use the right removal products and methods and you'll have the ceiling down in no time.
Instructions
1. Prepare your work area. Remove furniture and other items from the room, if possible. Cover the remaining items with plastic sheeting, as well as the ceiling fan or overhead light fixture, if you have one. Turn off the electricity to the room. Set up a freestanding light so you can see. Cover all electrical outlets with painter's tape or childproof covers and lay plastic sheeting on the floor. Tape plastic sheeting over the walls all the way up to where they meet the ceiling. This will protect the walls from damage and dirt during the process.
2. Fill a clean, empty garden sprayer with warm water or use a spray bottle. Spray a 4 to 5 square foot area of the ceiling with water. Wet the ceiling thoroughly, but don't use so much water that it is dripping wet.
3. Let the water sit on the section for about 30 seconds. Use a putty knife to scrape off the texture.
4. Repeat this process, working in 4 to 5 square foot sections, until all of the texture is gone.
5. Wipe down the ceiling with damp rags to remove any residue. Allow the ceiling to dry thoroughly before priming or painting.
Damage to the drywall on your ceiling can occur anywhere, but when it's near a ceiling fixture, you'll have to remove the fixture before you can replace the drywall. Sheetrock is a common brand of drywall, made by USG Corporation. The procedure used to replace Sheetrock is the same as the procedure used to replace any type of drywall panel. If the damage is the result of a water leak, repair the leak before installing a new drywall.
Instructions
Remove the Fixture
1. Remove the ceiling fixture. If it's just a vent cover, removing it is as simple as taking out the screws and pulling the cover from the ductwork. But if you're removing a light, there are a few more steps.
2. Turn on your ceiling light, go to the breaker box and flip off the breaker that serves the light. Return to the room and make sure the light is off before proceeding.
3. Stand on a sturdy ladder and remove the screws that hold the light fixture in place. If it's a heavy light, you may need an assistant to hold the fixture up while you loosen the screws.
4. Remove the wire nuts that cover the wires that connect the to the wires in the ceiling. Pull or gently twist the plastic wire nuts off and untwist the bare wires beneath. Once the light is free from the ceiling wires, replace the wire nuts on the ends of the ceiling wires and tuck the wires up and out of the way.
Cut Out the Damage
5. Use a stud finder to locate the two ceiling joists that run just outside the damaged Sheetrock.
6. Drive a small nail into the middle of each ceiling joist above and below the damaged area. You will have four nails that from a rectangular, two above and two below the damaged drywall on either side.
7. Pop a chalk line from one nail to the next, forming a rectangular line on the ceiling. The rectangle will extend all the way around the damaged section.
8. Hold a straight edge on the chalk line and cut through the Sheetrock with a sharp utility knife, scoring the face of the drywall at least ¼ inch deep all the way around. Go back and cut all the way through the drywall panel along the scored lines.
9. Tap the drywall rectangle out if it doesn't come out freely. If it's large, one or more drywall nails may be holding it in place. Remove the nails after the drywall is out.
Install New Drywall
10. Place the removed rectangle of damaged drywall on top of a new drywall panel and trace around it with a pencil.
11. Cut along the pencil line and cut out a hole for your fixture and position the new panel into the hole where you took out the old one.
12. Use drywall screws at the rate of one screw every 8 inches to attach the new panel to the ceiling joists.
13. Apply drywall joint compound and joint tape to the seams and screw holes. Sand the ceiling and paint it before reinstalling the light fixture.
Spotlights can update the appearance of your kitchen or living room.
Recessed spotlights enhance the aesthetic appeal of a room or highlight specific parts of your house because they shed light over a small area for a specific task. Because they are hidden in the ceiling, they make the rooms they're in use in appear more spacious. Select the appropriate position of the spotlight beforehand, depending on the area you want to illuminate. Most spotlight kits are available in home improvement or electrical stores.
Instructions
1. Mark the desired spot on the ceiling where you want to install the spotlight, using a pencil. Locate and mark the locations of joists on either side of the marked spot, because the housing for the spotlight will be between the two joists.
2. Drill a tiny hole at the desired spot where you want to install the spotlight and extend a wire coat hanger through it. You need a clearance of 8 inches above the spot for the spotlight can. Use the straightened coat hanger wire to determine whether there's enough clearance.
3. Hold the spotlight template on the ceiling over the mark and outline its edges. Cut around the circle outline on the ceiling using a utility knife or drywall saw. Remove the cutout and set it aside.
4. Pull an electric cable from a power source through the ceiling and through the hole. Allow 16 to 18 inches of wire to hang through the hole to make wiring easy. Use a utility knife to strip off 8 inches of the cable's outer sheathing, and close the ends. Also strip 3/8 inch of the plastic coating off the ends of the black and white wires using wire strippers. Turn off power at the circuit breaker box.
5. Loosen and remove the light's junction box cover. Run the cable through the hole at the side of the box. Clamp the cable to keep it in place. Match the wires by color; black to black, white to white and ground to ground, capping the connections with connectors. Replace the cover of the junction box.
6. Insert the four mounting clips that come with the spotlight kit into the ceiling hole, with their upper ends pushing down on the drywall. Pull these clips in so they do not extend beyond the can. Set the box of the can into the hole and push it up into the hole so its flange is flush with the ceiling. Push each mounting clip up and out until it clicks, securing the fixture.
7. Position the decorative trim piece over the spotlight and pull out each spring. Hook each spring to its corresponding hole in the can to complete the installation.
Tags: through hole, black white, coat hanger, desired spot, each spring, install spotlight, into hole
Python is a versatile programming language used for Web and desktop development. Part of Python's appeal is the large variety of libraries and built-in functions bundled with the programming language. With these built-ins, programmers can perform simple mathematical tasks. By using the "round()" function, you can round decimal numbers, and with the "math" package, you can perform more advanced rounding tasks.
Instructions>>round(4.5)
5.0 // "5" in Python 3
>>>round(4.567)
4.5999 //approximately 4.6, decimal representation is never entirely accurate in programming
2. Use the "ceil()" function to round a decimal. The "ceil()" (ceiling) function rounds a number in a particular way. Instead of rounding to the nearest whole number, it rounds to the nearest whole number toward positive infinity. For example, 4.5 will round to 5, but -4.5 will round to -4. The following example illustrates the "ceil()" function:
>>>import math
>>>math.ceil(3.1)
4.0
>>>math.ceil(-3.9)
-3.0
3. Use the "floor()" function to round a decimal. The "floor()" function behaves in the opposite way that the "ceil()" function does. Rather than rounding towards positive infinity, the "floor()" function rounds toward negative infinity. The following example illustrates the "floor()" function:
>>>import math
>>>math.floor(3.9)
3.0
>>>math.floor(-3.1)
-4.0
Tags: , , function round, function round decimal, , >>>import math
Creating the perfect atmosphere for your wedding takes work and creativity. One way to make a reception space look whimsical and romantic is by using fabric to decorate the ceiling. Use floating fabric, such as tulle or organza, to create drape fabric to create do-it-yourself tent ceiling draping. Use fabric in bright, bold colors, or stick with sheer, white fabric.
Instructions
1. Measure the size of the room using measuring tape. Use those measurements to find out the length of fabric that you will need. Take into account that you will be draping the fabric.
2. Choose from lightweight or heavyweight drapery hooks. Generally, when creating a ceiling tent, a heavy hook is ideal. If the fabric is light, you may get away with lighter ones.
3. Lay the fabric on a flat surface. Put the end of the drapery hook into one end of the fabric. That end of the drapery hook should come out of the bottom of the fabric.
4. Install one drapery hook in the center of the reception hall. Attach one end of a piece of fabric to the hook.
5. Drape the fabric across the ceiling from that center drapery hook. Secure the end of that fabric with a drapery hook.
6. Continue doing the same thing with as many pieces of fabric that it takes on the ceiling. Do it in concentric circles from the center.
Tags: drapery hook, center drapery, center drapery hook, draping fabric, that will
A Casablanca ceiling fan can immediately transform a boring and bland room into an area that looks restful and relaxing. This brand of ceiling fan is renowned for its quality construction and quiet operation; its products carry one of the industry's best warranties.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the circuit prior to working on it. Before you wire the Casablanca ceiling fan, make sure it is mounted to a ceiling fan-rated box. If you are replacing an existing light fixture with the Casablanca fan, odds are the box that is in the ceiling is not rated to support the weight of a ceiling fan. Replace it with one that is before you continue.
2. Look at the wires that come out of the top of the ceiling fan. Depending on the model, you may have a black, white and green or you may have black, white, green and blue wires. If your ceiling fan has a light kit already on it, then yours will be the four-wire variety. Hang the assembled fan in its mounting bracket so the ball-joint supports the weight so you can make the connections.
3. Cut the ceiling fan wires to a length that is comfortable to work with. Something around 6 inches is a good length. Use the wire strippers to strip about 3/4-inch insulation from the ends of each wire.
4. Connect the ground wire from the fan with the ground wire connected to the mounting bracket and the ground wire in the ceiling box. Wrap the wire connector with electrical tape and tuck the wires back up into the ceiling box.
5. Connect the white fan wire to the white wire in the ceiling box. Wrap electrical tape around the wire connector and tuck these wires into the ceiling box. Connect both the black and blue (if your model has one) wires from the ceiling fan to the black wire in the ceiling box. Wrap electrical tape around the wire connector and tuck the wires into the ceiling box.
6. Finish assembling the canopy as directed. Turn the circuit back on and test out your new Casablanca fan.
Tags: ceiling Wrap, , ground wire, into ceiling, wire ceiling
Shower rings have grown less common in favor of shower rods, since most showers are built into an alcove within the bathroom. A shower ring is required with showers installed in bathrooms without this alcove, when a shower curtain needs to cover the entire shower rather than one side of it. Installing a shower ring is somewhat more difficult due to the required procedure.
Ladder
People frequently use stepping stools when installing items into the ceiling or high on walls. In many cases, a stepping stool is more than adequate. However, you want a full ladder when installing a shower ring. The support rods, also known as escutcheons, connecting the shower ring to the ceiling have to be precisely mounted. It is very difficult to properly position these rods if you are constantly stretching to reach them. A full-size ladder will make installation much easier and less frustrating.
Riser Pipe-Mounted Shower Rings
Some shower rings are mounted to the riser pipe that holds the shower head. You always want to install the shower ring to this pipe before positioning the escutcheons. With a fully ceiling-mounted shower ring, you have a little leeway over position. You could be off by about an inch from the correct position and the shower curtain is still going to work perfectly well in most cases. However, even a slight misalignment with the escutcheon mounting would prevent the shower ring from connecting to the riser pipe. You want to mount it to this point before anything else.
Ceiling-Mounted Shower Rings
Some shower rings are fully mounted to the ceiling and not connected to the riser pipe at all. Attempting to position and mount all of the escutcheons at once is difficult and has little margin for error. It is unnecessarily frustrating and difficult to attempt to install a shower ring in this manner. The easiest way is to fully mount one of the escutcheons first. Having one of the rods mounted fixes the shower ring in one place, which makes mounting the subsequent rods much easier.
Only Use a Shower Ring When Necessary
Shower rings are a little more decorative than the more utilitarian shower rod design, which may appeal to some people. You should avoid trying to install a shower ring if your shower is built into an alcove, as in most modern homes. A shower rod is easier and faster to install with less chance of user error. The most decorative part of the shower ring are the escutcheons, the metal rods that connect the ceiling to the shower ring. You can use these on a shower rod with similar visual results. It would not need to function as a support; it would just be added as a decorative element. There is no need to go through the difficulty of installing a shower ring to get this effect.
Tags: , shower ring, install shower, install shower ring, ring this
Brainstorming is a technique used to encourage creative problem solving. It is also useful when experiencing writer's block. Although it can be used by individuals, brainstorming is most effective in groups where a variety of ages, professions, interests, perspectives and backgrounds are included in the process. During brainstorming, words, phrases, ideas and concepts relating to the problem are generated by the group. These are then used to create potential solutions. After discussion, one or more solutions are chosen and implemented.
History
Brainstorming has existed throughout history, but was not given its name until advertising executive Alex Osborn introduced his "think up," process in the 1940's. Osborn wanted to generate as many ideas as possible, as a way to break through conventional thinking. No idea would be rejected for being too far out on the fringe. Instead, unusual ideas would be welcomed and implemented if possible.
Techniques: Freewriting
Freewriting is a brainstorming technique in which you write down whatever thoughts, feelings and experiences you have that relate to the topic or problem you wish to explore. Choose a topic, set a time limit, decide how many words, paragraphs or pages to write, and continue until time is up or you exhaust your thoughts on the topic. Combat writer's block by disengaging your left brain. Your left brain is your censor and intellectual editor. Don't allow your to spend so much time "getting it right," that you lose the enjoyment of creating something fresh. Brainstorming sets your right brain loose. Your right brain is the crazy friend who blows into your life for a day or two of parties before moving on to the next new thing. Have fun, make a big mess, and enjoy the moment. Clean everything up later, when you take the ideas you generated and plug them into your final work.
Techniques: Concept Mapping
Write one word related to the topic in a circle in the center of a flip chart page. Write the first word that comes to mind when you hear the first word. Continue until you have written a more specific word at each level from the first concept. Draw a circle around each word. Make connections between words that go together, making a progression of thoughts. For example, in the concept map that accompanies this step, the central word is romance. This connects to "Boy next door," and "Wife/mother." When you have decided what words are connected, use the sequence to tell a story.
For example, using the concept map, Jason and Allie grew up across the street from one another. They marry right after graduation, and Allie goes to college to become an architect. Jason starts his own construction company. Allie has worked her way into the upper management at a prestigious architectural firm, but has encountered the glass ceiling. To make it to the top, she has to put her career ahead of her husband and children. A tightening economy has Jason's business in a tailspin, putting further pressure on Allie. The rest of the story is up to you.
Citizen Involvment and Transparency
Invite public comments, suggestions and critiques of your organization. Create a forum that allows those who will be affected by your decisions to help generate solutions to thorny issues. This forum can also be used to decide which problems matter most, affect the daily lives of the largest number of people, and have solutions that can be implemented with minimal expense in time and effort while creating maximum benefit.
The Obama administration is making use of brainstorming sessions that are open to the public, to set policy and determine priorities. The Open Government Dialogue web site at opengov.ideascale.com "... will enable the White House to hear people's ideas on open government, including approaches to policy, law, technology, culture and practice."
Dares and Challenges
Participate in projects such as National Novel Writing Month, which is held every November. Month is sponsored by the Office of Letters and Light. The goal is to write a 50,000 word novel in one month. Write 1500 words a day for 30 days, while participating in the dares and challenges. Use the words provided in the dares in your writing, whenever you get stuck or need to avoid a cliche.
Tags: left brain, first word, into your, National Novel, National Novel Writing, Novel Writing, Novel Writing Month
A humming ceiling fan may indicate a faulty installation.
A ceiling fan is a low-energy device that cools the home in the hot summer months and circulates fresh air through the home. No amount of cold air, however, will cool your nerves when you're stuck with a ceiling fan that hums. Humming issues often indicate a mechanical or an installation issue. Troubleshooting a humming ceiling fan may require you to adjust a few components, but it is a DYI project that most homeowners can easily complete.
Instructions
1. Turn off the ceiling fan.
2. Tighten the light bulbs so that they do not rattle. Loose light bulbs are often a source of humming on a ceiling fan. Turn on the fan and see if the humming has stopped.
3. Tighten the screws on the light globes with a screwdriver or by hand, depending on the connection. Stretch a silencer band, available at hardware stores, over each globe and place the band over the connection area.
4. Remove the pull chain from the unit if it is touching any of the globes.
5. Loosen the screws of the fan canopy if it is touching the ceiling and lower it slightly.
6. Tighten the fan blade brackets with a screwdriver.
7. Tighten the screws on the motor housing.
Tags: humming ceiling, , Tighten screws, with screwdriver
PVC pipe is a versatile material when you apply your imagination. Curtain rods hanging from the ceiling can be deployed using PVC pipe to subdivide loft spaces, standard window treatments, and in the construction of valances. PVC pipe is strong enough to hold most curtain materials. Hanging the curtains from the ceiling is a unique application, foregoing standard curtain rod hooks protruding from the wall.
Instructions
1. Drill a 3/16-inch hole two inches from the ends of the PVC pipe. Slide the threaded hooks through the holes. Rotate the nut over the threads from the inside of the pipe to secure the hooks to the rod.
2. Drill a 3/16-inch hole into the ceiling, corresponding to the location of the hooks on the pipe. Tap a wall anchor into the ceiling.
3. Screw a into the anchors until you feel the anchor pop open behind the ceiling's surface.
4. Loop the chain over the ceiling hook and through the ring on the PVC pipe. Slide the curtain over the pipe while one end of the pipe is free.
5. Loop the other chain over the other hook. Ensure the rod appears level.
6. Cut two 1-inch thick finial end plugs from the wooden dowel with the saw. Drill a hole in the center of each puck.
7. Thread the finial into the wooden puck for each end. Push the assembly into the end of the pipe.
Cement board is a building material much like drywall in appearance. While drywall has a gypsum core, cement board has a cementitious core. Manufacturers make cement board by sandwiching cement between layers of fiberglass mesh. It has a smooth surface similar to drywall. Cement board holds up to damp conditions without soaking moisture in like drywall. Cement board is mold and mildew resistant, unlike drywall. It also has a higher fire resistance rating than drywall. Cement board is suitable for interior or exterior applications.
Instructions
1. Sand the cracks with medium-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges.
2. Apply latex-modified mortar, also known as thin set or use joint compound with hydraulic cement as an ingredient with a putty knife. Press the thin set or joint compound deep into the cracks. Extend the compound or thin set 1/4-inch past the crack on each side of the crack with a small trowel. Make the layer as thin as possible while covering the crack completely.
3. Allow the thin set or joint compound to dry fully, generally one to two hours.
4. Sand the repair surface with fine-grit sandpaper attached to a sanding block to level it with the existing ceiling.
A bathroom ceiling exhaust fan pulls warm, moist air and dust, dirt or other particles from the bathroom and vents the air outside to make the bathroom inhospitable to harmful mold or other microorganisms that grow in wet, moist environments. Over time, the fan blade assembly and motor, exhaust vent and light fixture, if applicable, accumulate a layer of loose and oily debris. This not only reduces the fan's efficiency, but also promotes the growth of mold--and poses the risk of fire. Clean the fan and vent at least once monthly to prevent buildup.
Instructions
1. Flip the bathroom ceiling exhaust fan breaker switch in your circuit breaker box so that no electricity flows to the fan and/or attached light.
2. Set up a step stool or ladder near the vent and then step up on the stool or ladder carefully. If you're dealing with a high ceiling, ask someone to hold the ladder to stabilize it while you work.
3. Pull down on the ceiling exhaust grille and/or light cover and unhook it from inside of the vent, or unscrew it from the ceiling. Set it aside. Unscrew the light bulb from the socket, if applicable, and set it aside. Unscrew the light assembly from the vent and set it aside.
4. Attach a crevice or brush tool to the end of your vacuum hose. Vacuum the exhaust grille and/or light cover, the fan blade assembly and motor, and the walls of the vent to remove dust, dirt and other debris.
5. Wipe the fan blades and the vent walls with a soapy cloth or undiluted distilled white vinegar to remove the loose and oily debris. Rinse your cloth and repeat with additional detergent and water or vinegar as needed until you've removed all of the grime. When finished, rinse the areas with a fresh, damp cloth and then wipe dry.
6. Repeat the cleaning and rinsing process with the exhaust grille and/or light cover. When finished, wipe the exhaust grille and/or light cover completely dry and set the piece aside. Clean the light bulb and light assembly, if applicable, with a dry, soft cloth. Screw the assembly back into the vent and the light bulb back into its socket.
7. Reattach the exhaust grille and/or light cover to the vent. Flip the breaker switch back on. Flip the fan and/or light switch to confirm that the fan and/or light are working.
When setting up a home theater system, positioning your rear speakers (also known as the surround speakers) is very important in achieving the best surround sound quality. To the untrained ear, surround speakers could be placed anywhere and it wouldn't matter. But to those who are very particular about audio quality in a , proper speaker placement is critical. Here are some helpful steps to set up your home theater rear speakers.
Instructions
1. Evaluate the room and decide where your seating will be positioned.
2. Rear speakers should be mounted either behind the viewer approximately 1 foot above head level or in the back corners of the room near the ceiling.
3. The distance between the rear speakers and your viewing area should be no more than 8 to 10 feet. You can compensate for the distance by turning up the volume on these speakers. They only transmit the surround sound track, so the sound will not be constant or overbearing.
4. Rear speakers can be placed as close as 1 foot behind the viewing area. The volume can be decreased so as not to overwhelm the viewer during a movie.
5. Point the speakers downward, toward the viewing area, when you mount them. Try to aim the speakers at head-level. This will allow for optimum listening enjoyment.
6. Mounting the in the rear allows viewers the freedom to move closer or farther away from the screen without losing the effect. If they are mounted on the side walls, the viewers cannot move forward or backward without losing quality.
7. Start a movie and fiddle with your placement until you find what best suits your needs and taste.
A noisy ceiling fan can ruin a good night's sleep, interrupt a favorite television program, and annoy you to no end. A ceiling fan that is improperly installed or has unbalanced blades can vibrate and become noisy. Most of the time a loud ceiling fan can be easily fixed if you begin by properly diagnosing the problem.
Instructions
1. Determine if your ceiling fan is properly installed. The fan should be snug against the ceiling and not hanging down. Inspect the canopy (ceiling cover part) for any gaps between it and your ceiling. If you observe any gaps, correct by reinstalling the canopy.
2. Tighten all screws. Loose screws are a common cause for noisy ceiling fans. Start at the top and work your way to the bottom of the fan. Remove the canopy and tighten the screws which hold the fan onto the junction box. Replace the canopy, tightening those screws as well. Tighten the screws holding the blade arms to the motor, followed by the screws holding the blades to the blade holders. If your fan has a light fixture attached, tighten those screws as well.
3. Test your fan to see if tightening the screws fixed your problem.
4. Balance your blades if the noise persists. Purchase a balancing kit from a home improvement store. Attach the provided weight clip half way down any of the blades. Turn the fan on and see if the noise is gone. If not, continue moving the clip to each blade and retest each time.
5. Listen for a change in the noise or, if there is an obvious wobbling blade, look for it to be steadied. Once you have determined the noisy blade, move the weight clip to different places on the blade until you have no noise.
6. Remove the and replace with the provided adhesive backed weight. You may need to affix more than one weight.
The 5RDRRB ceiling fan produced by Monte Carlo is a five-blade, pendant-style ceiling fan. The fan features three-speed reversible operation and a remote control and can be installed with an add-on light kit to function as a light fixture. Troubleshooting the Monte Carlo fan should only be undertaken by those experienced with electrical wiring connections.
Instructions
1. Compare the dip switch setting on the remote control to the dip switch setting on the receiver located on the fan if the fan will not run. Reset either the remote or the fan receiver to match the other component if they are not set the same.
2. Check the fuses or breakers at the household electrical panel if the fan still will not start. Replace any blown fuses or reset any tripped breakers as necessary.
3. Turn off the main power at the electrical panel, then remove the three screws that hold the in place and remove the switch housing if the fan still fails to start or makes noise while running. Check for any loose wiring connections if the fan will not start or the light does not turn on. Verify that the wire nut connectors have adequate room between each other and the sides of the housing to prevent rattling. Reinstall the switch housing.
4. Check the tightness of the screws on both the motor housing and blades if the fan is noisy or wobbles during operation. Allow 24 hours of fan run time to elapse then recheck it if the fan continues to make excessive noise.
5. Verify that the fan canopy sits flush against the ceiling if the fan wobbles during operation. Measure the distance between the blade tips and ceiling if the fan continues to wobble. Place a washer between the blade holder and blade to adjust the blade height on any blades that are not level with the others.
Tags: Monte Carlo, switch housing, wobbles during operation, between blade, during operation, electrical panel
There are many options for designing your kitchen ceiling.
While the ceiling in your home kitchen is often overlooked from a design perspective, there are actually several different options and ceiling types. Drywall, for example, can be easily turned into a unique and attractive kitchen ceiling. Plaster ceilings, having been replaced by drywall in the past, are also making a comeback, according to Dream-Kitchen-Ideas.com.
Wood Ceilings
Wooden ceilings infuse a kitchen with a homey, charming feeling. Create rustic charm by adding wood beams to your ceiling--these can be either faux-wood or the real thing. Faux-wood beams are made of either foam or polyurethane, but they look almost exactly like real wood. While wood ceilings are attractive, they're difficult to clean. Consider this when choosing the look of .
Intricate Ceilings
Coffered ceilings contain lucanars, or recessed sections, giving your kitchen an architectural, structured feel. Even though this style may look difficult to create, it's actually a simple process. Coffered ceilings are often made from wood. Also, if your kitchen already has a cathedral-style ceiling, it's simple to create a barreled ceiling in its place.
Additional Ceiling Ideas
If you have a plaster ceiling, you can create plaster medallions and moldings to spice up the look. To cover up an old ceiling that you don't want to replace, consider installing a drop ceiling. These types of ceilings come in several different styles and materials, such as brass, chrome, steel, copper and tin. You can also find painted drop ceiling tiles. For a striking kitchen ceiling, consider creating a ceiling from metal tiles. You can find metal tiles in different colors and designs. Lastly, laminate ceilings are simple do-it-yourself jobs, and these types of ceilings are very easy to clean.
Lighting
Placing soffits in your kitchen ceiling is a way to display recessed lights or lights that are meant to illuminate the ceiling itself. By using dramatic lighting in your kitchen, along with dimmer switches, you can change the entire atmosphere of the room. You can cover soffits with wood, drywall or both. If you have wooden cabinets, consider matching the type of wood with the soffits to bring the look together. Adding a skylight to your ceiling is another great way to get extra light in the room, possibly saving on your energy bill. If the skylight opens, it can also help with ventilation.
Tags: your kitchen, kitchen ceiling, Coffered ceilings, drop ceiling, metal tiles, several different
New bedding can give your bedroom a mini-makeover.
You spend a lot of time in your bedroom, whether you're sleeping, getting ready for work in the morning or cuddling with your loved ones. As time passes, your bedroom's style becomes outdated. You can easily spend thousands of dollars and a few months creating a whole new look for your room, but it's not an economically feasible idea when you can just as easily and more affordably give your bedroom a mini-makeover.
Instructions
1. Rearrange your bedroom furniture. This makeover method doesn't even require going to the store and spending money. Rearranging your bedroom furniture gives you room a new look instantly. Arranging your furniture just right may open up more space in your room, and you'll most likely find clutter in your room that just doesn't belong anymore and can be donated or thrown away.
2. Update your lighting fixtures. Replace your old ceiling fan or ceiling light with a chandelier. Switch your side table light bulbs with those that are economically-friendly, such as fluorescent lights. Or, get rid of side table lamps altogether and replace them with recessed lighting above your bed. Make use of natural lighting in your bedroom by accenting windows with light-colored drapes.
3. Hang your favorite large painting or enlarged photograph on the wall over your bed instead of several smaller paintings or pictures. This single piece can serve as the focal point in your bedroom. If you prefer not to hang anything over your bed, purchase or make a decorative headboard.
4. Purchase new bedding that matches your style and room. If your walls are filled with artwork and pictures, stick with plain bedding that is only one or two colors. If your walls are bare, choose patterned bedding. While you're purchasing new bedding, pick up some matching window curtains.
5. Paint your bedroom walls a new color. Simply changing the color of your walls gives your bedroom a completely new look in just a few hours. Neutral-colored walls make your room appear to be larger, while bright colors give your bedroom a welcoming feel. If you prefer wallpaper, choose a wallpaper that is abstract and bold; it functions as both wall color and artwork.
Tags: your bedroom, , give your bedroom, your walls, bedding that, , bedroom mini-makeover
Plaster is a paste that is applied to walls and ceilings and dries to a hard finish. Although plaster is fairly durable, it is susceptible to cracking and developing holes over time. Luckily, repairing holes in plaster, such as in a ceiling, can be accomplished so that the hole is completely disguised. Repairing plaster holes in a ceiling is slightly more tedious than repairing wall holes because the hole is above your head and you must balance on a ladder.
Instructions
1. Place a ladder under the hole and climb up. Enlarge the edges of the hole with a utility knife so that the hole is a square. Brush the surface of the hole with your hand to remove any loosened plaster that is still clinging to the ceiling.
2. Place a tape measure up to the hole and measure its length and width.
3. Transfer the hole measurements onto a 3/4-inch thick piece of sheetrock using the tape measure and a pencil. Cut along the pencil marks using the utility knife to cut out the square.
4. Spread 1 tsp. of wood glue onto the back of the sheetrock in a thin layer. Press the sheetrock up into the ceiling hole and hold it in place for approximately 60 seconds. Place a piece of painter's tape over the sheetrock to hold it in place while the glue dries. Wait 10 to 15 minutes and then remove the tape gently.
5. Insert two to three drywall screws through the top of the sheetrock using a screwdriver to secure it to the ceiling underneath.
6. Apply strips of drywall tape over each of the four edges of the sheetrock. Press them down firmly with your fingers to remove any air pockets.
7. Open a container of ready-mix base coat plaster and scoop up 1 tbsp. using a putty knife. Smooth the plaster over the sheetrock until it is completely covered. Scrape the putty knife blade over the surface of the ceiling to smooth the plaster out into the surrounding surface.
8. Apply a second thin coat to the patched area when the plaster is dry. Continue applying thin coats until the recessed area is no longer visible in the ceiling.
Tags: hold place, hole with, over sheetrock, putty knife, sheetrock using,
If you have an item you want to hang from your drop ceiling, use a scissor clip. These durable clips clip onto the ceiling grid's T-bar, which then hangs any item weighing 50 pounds or less. Before you install the scissor clip, make sure you know precisely where you want to put it. It is not recommended to remove and reinstall the scissor clip, although some manufacturer's allow for occasional removal.
Instructions
1. Set up a ladder underneath the drop ceiling in the location you want to hang a scissor clip. Slide the two resting on the T-bar aside.
2. Separate the scissor clip's two halves. Position them around the T-bar with the hook dangling below the ceiling grid. Squeeze the two halves with your fingers until they snap together.
3. Slide the two ceiling tiles back into place and lower them into the grid.
Tongue and groove wood ceilings, as with any other type of wood structure, are properly installed with spaces around the edges to allow for movement of the wood. Wood expands and contracts with temperature and climate changes, so those spaces around the perimeter are necessary to give the wood somewhere to go to avoid buckling. What all this means is that you really have no choice but to trim around the perimeter of a tongue and groove wood ceiling, because there is inevitably extra space there.
Instructions
1. Measure along the top of the wall, from one corner outward to the end.
2. Mark out the measurement on a piece of ceiling trim, with two marks along the top of the piece and the measured span between them.
3. Set the trim on your miter saw, upside down and backward from the position it will be on the ceiling. Therefore, if the trim is coming off the right side of the corner, set it on the left side of the blade, sitting flat on the side that will be going up against the ceiling.
4. Turn the blade 45 degrees pointing inward, toward the middle of the measured span. Cut it.
5. Slide the trim so the other end is in front of the blade, keeping it in the same position (upside down and backward). Swivel the blade 45 degrees in the opposite direction as it was, so it's still pointing toward the measured span. Make the cut.
6. Repeat to cut a piece for each span of the ceiling, mitering each of the ends.
7. Hold the first cut pieces of trim in place at the top of the wall and affix it there, shooting nails from your trim nailer every 12 inches. Do the same for each of the other pieces of trim. The mitered ends should butt to each other in corners.
8. Make the mitered cuts there go 45 degrees outward, away from the measured span of the trim, instead of inward, if there are any outside corners on the ceiling, such as around chimneys.
Tags: measured span, around perimeter, blade degrees, down backward, each other, groove wood
The Boston Acoustics Bravo II is a compact 2-way speaker for stereo systems and home theater. The wedge shape of the speaker allows wall-mounting in corners, near ceilings and other tight installations. The Bravo II is equipped with a 1-inch tweeter and a 4-inch woofer, which delivers the bass. You can boost the bass in these comparatively small speakers by following some simple steps.
Instructions
1. Get the speakers off the floor and onto speaker stands. Bass is felt as much as heard, meaning the vibrations from a woofer can be lost to the surrounding environment. The bass vibrations will travel through the speaker cabinet and dissipate into the carpet or floorboards unless you give them some room for air to circulate. Speaker stands are available at home-audio stores.
2. Wall mount the speakers on adjustable mounting brackets available at . A wall mount lets you install a Bravo II speaker at your preferred height, so if you want the bass at ear level from your seating area, you can mount the speaker at the proper height.
3. Move speakers out from the walls as far as possible. Whether you mount them on wall brackets or use speaker stands, Bravo II speakers will deliver better bass if the vibrations are not being absorbed into the walls. Since the speakers' web shape allows for corner installations, one solution would be to mount them on brackets from the ceiling, rather than flush with two walls in a corner.
4. Add a pair of mid-range speakers to your system to take some of the pressure off the woofers in the Bravo II speakers, which are equipped only with tweeters and woofers, but no midrange speaker cone.
5. Adjust the bass setting on your amplifier or receiver to crank up the low-frequency effects.
Tags: available home-audio, available home-audio stores, bass vibrations, Bravo speakers, home-audio stores, mount them
Recessed lighting adds a sleek, attractive look to your overall lighting design, but in a vaulted ceiling it can be dangerous. By virtue of the way they are designed, vaulted ceilings leave little space between the ceiling and the roof. Recessed lighting may cause warm air to leak out of rooms while inviting cold air in, so they must be placed with care and precision. Because recessed lights may also be a fire hazard in vaulted ceilings, which are commonly insulated, homeowners must choose their lights carefully.
Instructions
1. Design a lighting plan on paper, drawing a diagram of your ceiling and determining the placement of each light; you can always tweak this design later.
2. Mark the physical location of each light in the ceiling with blue painter's tape, making a 2-inch X in each spot.
3. Step back and visually look over your plan. Make any necessary tweaks. Once you begin cutting holes for the lights, there's no going back.
4. Make a template for your lights by placing one light on top of a piece of cardboard. Draw a circle around the light with a pencil, then cut out this circle with scissors.
5. Hold the template up to each X and trace around it with the pencil. Remove the tape as you mark out the circles.
6. Precut each circle using a utility knife, lightly scoring the drywall of the ceiling.
7. Drill a one-half-inch hole into the center of with a power drill.
8. Cut into the ceiling with a drywall saw, starting at each drilled hole and making lines spreading out to the circle you outlined. Applying pressure to the cut drywall pieces will jostle them out of position so they may be disposed of.
9. Take one light at a time up the ladder to each hole. Connect the wires on the recessed light to the lighting wires running through the ceiling only if you are familiar with manipulative electrical wiring. You may need to consult with a professional electrician to complete this task safely.
10. Push the lights up into the hole once the wires are connected, placing the lamps so they are flush with the ceiling.
11. Secure the brackets on the lamp to the ceiling. Wiggle the light to make certain it is secure inside the ceiling.
Tags: ceiling with, circle with, , each light, Recessed lighting
Installing tin tiles in a ceiling is similar to installing a fiber tile onto a ceiling. You can install them using a track, or glue them to the ceiling. Eventually, when you complete a row of tiles, or you get to the final row, you will need to trim the tile to fit the available space. With a pair of tin snips you can make short work of this process.
Instructions
1. Measure the available space left for your tile with a tape measure.
2. Place the tape measure onto the tin tile and mark your measurements on the tile. Make sure you position the marks to follow any patterns embossed in the tile.
3. Place a straight edge on the tile and scribe a line with a marker to denote the line you need to cut.
4. Cut the line using a pair of tin snips. Tin snips work like a pair of scissors. Follow the line to ensure a proper fit.
Many people believe painting is the easiest part of any home-improvement project. That might be so, but there are still a lot of details involved, especially when you have to trim around edges and corners. Trimming around the ceiling is an especially time-consuming project because you have to get up high and use special tools to avoid overlapping paint from the wall onto the ceiling. Nothing says "sloppy and amateurish" like stray paint strokes on your ceiling.
Instructions
1. Remove as much furniture from the room as possible to avoid paint-splattering issues. Place plastic sheeting down on the floor and on any remaining pieces of furniture.
2. Wipe the wall edge clear of any dust balls or cobwebs with a damp rag. If you don't take this step, the dust balls and lint strands will dry into the paint and leave your wall edges looking messy.
3. Tape the edge of the ceiling as close to the corner where it meets the wall as possible with blue painter's tape. Apply tape as far as your arm will stretch, cut it, then move your stool to continue taping. Be sure the tape pieces overlap. If you have molding where the ceiling meets the wall, then place blue tape above and below the molding.
4. Use a 3- or 4-inch brush to trim the wall around the ceiling. Use even, light strokes as you paint. Blend downward into the wall as you go.
According to "Home Improvement 1-2-3," replacing a kitchen light fixture should take roughly 90 minutes for a novice and 50 minutes for an experienced person, though those with little or no experience in this field can expect to spend longer to get the job completed correctly. The main concern for people dealing with the installation or removal of electrical appliances in their home is being electrocuted, but a little thought and care can easily prevent this. If you feel unsure about your ability to complete the task, refer the job to a qualified electrician.
Instructions
1. Place step ladder under the light fixture. Turn off power to the fixture at the wall switch, as well as the corresponding circuit breaker in the main fuse box. Remove the fixture's circular coverplate by unscrewing the central nut. Pull the wires (hot and neutral) down from the metal box in the ceiling and disconnect them by removing the plastic wire connectors (be careful not to touch the bare wires).
2. Test the bare wires with a neon circuit tester to make sure no electrical current is present. If the tester glows, turn off the correct breaker in the main fuse box. Do not proceed until the tester stops glowing while connected to the circuit wires. Separate the fixture wires from the hot and neutral wires coming from the metal ceiling box. Unthread the central fixture-retaining nut by hand and lower the fixture to the floor.
3. Thread the fixture-retaining nut of the new light fixture into the center of the ceiling box. Connect the fixture wires with the corresponding colors (black to black, white to white, etc.), using the plastic wire connectors. If the fixture wires are the same color, the marked fixture wire is neutral (connect to white circuit wire) and the unmarked wire is hot (connect to the black circuit wire).
4. Push all wires up into the metal ceiling box and place the coverplate back up over the ceiling box. Tighten the retaining nut to hold the coverplate in place. Finally turn on the breaker at the fuse box and turn on the wall switch to test that the ceiling light works.
Tags: circuit wire, fixture wires, metal ceiling, bare wires, breaker main, breaker main fuse, Change Kitchen
Invisible speakers are designed to blend in seamlessly with wall and ceiling materials.
Invisible speakers are frequently specified by architects and interior designers who don't want external speakers cluttering up floors or shelves, and who hate the look of metal speaker covers on walls or ceilings. These specially designed speakers have covers that mimic the look of wallboard or ceiling panels, so they blend in with their surroundings and stay out of sight.
Cover Materials
The key to invisible speakers are their covers, called radiating diaphragms. These rigid, flat panels are built of proprietary materials which transmit sound but which have an exterior texture similar to that of standard wallboard. The diaphragms are finished with paper that can accept the skim-coat plaster used to finish interior walls.
Speaker Technology
Behind the radiating diaphragms, invisible speakers use high-power tweeters and woofers that are designed to project sound in a hemispheric polar pattern, providing even sound distribution on the other side of the wall or ceiling. Woofer cones are frequently designed to project low-frequency vibrations into the surrounding wall materials themselves.
Installation and Finishing Options
In new construction, invisible speakers are installed in housings that fit between the wood studs in the walls. The outer diaphragms are then screwed directly to the studs. The surrounding wallboard is installed, and the joints between the diaphragm and the wallboard are tapped. Finally, skim coat is applied over the entire wall, completely concealing the speaker. The wall over the speaker can then be painted, or even covered with a light wallpaper, without significantly affecting the sound quality.
Sound Performance
Although they're buried in the wall, invisible speakers can provide extremely good sound performance. Invisible speakers typically provide frequency ranges from 40 Hz all the way up to 20 kHz. They also generate fairly even hemispherical sound distribution patterns, even at frequencies as high as 16 kHz.
Transom windows are typically rectangular, but can be arched.
Transom windows (rectangular or arched panes of glass over a door) first were used in Victorian rowhouses. They added a decorative touch to those stately and ornate homes, as well as a practical element. Victorians used them to bring cool breezes and natural light into their residences. Some of these windows were fashioned of colorful stained glass.
Features
Victorians used transom windows for cool breezes and sunlight.
The transom window takes its name from the horizontal crossbeam over a door. The window is attached to this transom beam. The window can be fixed in place, if used strictly to provide architectural interest, or hinged to open and close.Victorians opened these high windows by standing on a chair.
History
Transom windows were used in 1930s office buildings.
Decades later, the transom window was widely used in 1930s office buildings. The look was sleek Art Deco, as opposed to the ornate Victorian-rowhouse style. The of this era were opened and closed with long rods, eliminating the need to stand on a chair. They, too, provided a means of ventilation and light.
Terminology
''Over the transom'' work is unsolicited and slipped over an office door..
The 1930s over-the-door office windows were the source of the American term ''over the transom'' work. Aspiring writers and musicians often slipped copies of their unpublished, unsolicited work ''over the transom'' and into the locked office of an editor or other business official. This practice was widespread in the publishing world.
Ventilation
Modern heating and cooling systems made transom windows unnecessary.
Transom windows went out of fashion with the advent of modern home heating and cooling systems, eliminating the need for their cross-ventilation. Also, the soaring ceilings of the Victorian and Art Deco architecture were replaced with the lower ceilings of the post-World-War-II housing boom, making the over-the-door window unsightly and out of place.
New Uses
Some traditionally styled new homes often have transom windows.
Transom windows again are popular over front doors in modern residential construction. These transoms rarely open and close and are used for decorative purposes and natural light. They are associated with a more formal, traditional style of architecture. As in Victorian times, these high windows bring in sunlight while maintaining the privacy provided by a closed door.
Wood paneling is a unique way to dress up any ceiling in your home. Wood paneling can also cover unsightly ceiling textures or uneven drywall patches. Building a ceiling with wood panels is a time consuming process that can make your arms and body tired. Working with your arms stretched upward and consistently climbing a ladder can wear you out. Avoid burnout by planning several days for your ceiling makeover.
Instructions
1. Scan the ceiling with an electronic stud finder and mark where each ceiling joist is with a pencil. Use a chalk line to lengthen out the pencil marks on the ceiling. Extend the marks to the wall if possible. This will enable you to see the joist marks as you cover the ceiling with the wood panels.
2. Measure the ceiling with a measuring tape. Mark the measurements from the ceiling onto the wood panels.
3. Cut the wood panels with a miter saw or a circular saw. Cut out light fixture or speaker holes with a jig saw.
4. Load a caulk gun with a tube of construction adhesive. Cut the end of the tube with a utility knife. Apply the adhesive on the back of the wood panels in a "s" like motion.
5. Lift the panel into place on the ceiling. Nail the wood panel into place with a pneumatic nail gun. Make sure you are placing the nails into place in the ceiling joists.
6. Continue measuring, cutting, gluing, and nailing the ceiling panels in place on the ceiling until the entire ceiling is covered.
Tags: ceiling with, into place, place ceiling, wood panels, ceiling with wood, construction adhesive, into place ceiling
A drop ceiling is a good way to hide imperfections.
A T-Bar ceiling, otherwise known as a drop ceiling, requires interlocking sections of metal bars in the shape of a "T" and foam or fiberglass acoustic panels. The ceiling rests below the original ceiling. It is a good way to hide imperfections in a ceiling during a renovation project to lower the height of a ceiling to make the room proportionate. When installing a T-bar ceiling, it always helps to have a few tips supplied with your instructions to make the task easier.
Instructions
1. Determine the height you want to install the ceiling. For example, if you have 10-foot ceilings you might choose to install the drop ceiling at 8-foot to avoid installing additional drywall during a renovation. As a tip, measure up from the floor with a tape measure and place marks on the wall every 3-to-5-feet. This will make the ceiling level with the floor and not with the original ceiling.
2. Measure the length of each wall in the room where you plan to install the T-Bar ceiling and then record the measurements. As a tip, measure the length of the wall at the chosen height for the T-bar ceiling since a wall is not always the same length at both ends. Measuring at the new ceiling height will give you the most precise measurements.
3. Cut pieces of metal drop ceiling wall trim. Drop ceiling wall trim is bent into 90 degree angles. You will screw it to the wall and the T-bar sections will rest on the trim. This helps to hold up the new ceiling. As a tip, use an electric miter saw. They offer precision cuts and take less time than trying to cut "free hand. Cut each end of the trim at a 45 degree angle. When you install the trim, it will look very professional as the corners will join perfectly.
4. Drill holes though one side of the trim every 2 feet with a hand drill and drill bit that measures slightly larger than the shank on your wood screws. Repeat this with each piece of trim. Do not attempt to drill the holes for the screws while the trim is against the wall. Screws easily slip on metal and the drill bit could slip off and gouge the wall.
5. Place the first piece of trim onto the wall and line the bottom of the trim up against the marks you placed on the wall. Place a level on the top of the trim and position it so it rests level on the wall. Secure the trim to the wall with wood screws and a screwdriver. Repeat this with each piece of trim. Attach a Phillip's screw tip to your hand drill to make the process faster.
6. Measure across the length of the room with your tape measure to determine the length needed for your T-bars.
7. Cut your T-bars to length with the miter saw. Place the flat portion of the T-bar onto the table of the miter saw. This will help you keep the cut straight.
8. Space the T-bars evenly across the trim. As a tip, most acoustic tiles are 2-feet wide. However, measure your tiles' width and then make sure you space each T-bar accordingly. Place the flat part of the T-bar onto the wall trim.
9. Measure the gaps between the T-bars and cut additional T-bars to serve as cross members. You need one cross member for each tile in each row. If your rows are 8 feet long and your tiles are two foot long, you need four tiles to complete a row. Since the first and last tile will rest on the wall trim, you need a cross member between tiles one and two, two and thee and three and four, for a total of three cross members.
10. Cut all of the cross members with the miter saw. Place the flat portion of the T-Bar onto the base of the miter saw when you cut.
11. Place all of the cross members in place between the main T-bars. Work to keep the cross members spaced at the appropriate distances apart. For example, if your titles are 2 feet long, you must space the first cross member 2 feet away from the wall trim and then place the second cross member 2 feet away from the first . If you are off slightly, you can make adjustments when you install the tiles.
12. Thread eyebolts into the original ceiling directly above each T-bar, approximately ever 2 feet. Thread an eyebolt into the original ceiling above each end of each cross member. Slide the shaft of a screwdriver though the eye on the eyebolt and turn the screwdriver clockwise. This will make it easier to thread in the eyebolts.
13. Cut a piece of metal wire approximately 12 inches longer than the gap between the eyebolts and the holes drilled into the T-bars. Use wire cutters or tin snips to make cutting the wires easier.
14. Thread the wires though the suspension holes in the T-bars and then through the holes in the eyelet bolts. Pull the wires through each hole so the wire is tight between both holes and so the same amount of wire extends out of each hole. Wrap the portion of the wire extending through the hole around the wire between the holes to tighten the T-bars in place.
15. Slide each tile up though the T-bars and then place the tile onto the edges of the T-bars. They will rest in place without further attachment. Do not use glue or tape to secure the acoustic tiles to the T-bars as you may need to remove them for maintenance to the original ceiling at some point.
Tags: cross member, cross members, original ceiling, wall trim, drop ceiling, piece trim
Suspended ceilings were a solution to old ceilings that suffered from failing plaster, or tall rooms that were hard to heat. The metal grid holds fiber panels at a lower height, more conducive to heating a home. However, over time, the usually white panels can take on a yellowish tinge from nicotine, wood smoke or home cooking. Any water leaks will develop into large, round, ugly stains. You can improve a suspended ceiling dramatically with simple paint and rollers.
Instructions
1. Take down the tiles carefully, numbering any that are cut to fit in non-standard spots. Stack them together and take them to your work area. You can leave them up and spray paint the ceiling, but you won't achieve the finished look you'll get by taking the tiles down for roller painting.
2. Vacuum the tiles with the upholstery brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner to pull up as much dust as possible.
3. Set the tiles on a flat surface on a tarp and cover them with a coating of shellac stain blocker, using a medium nap paint roller. This coating will dry quickly, sealing the stains under the shellac.
4. Paint the tiles with a covering of latex paint, after the dries -- anywhere between one and two hours. Get creative and use a finish that will complement your room, such as a bright white, a deep brown or a metallic bronze. Dry the tiles completely.
5. Paint the suspended ceiling grid with a fine-nap paint roller. Use paint designed for metal, covering the grid with two coats of paint. Use a contrasting paint color to show off the pattern of the ceiling, such as a shiny silver for ultra white panels or off-white to add a different contrast. Alternatively, you can paint the grid the same color as the ceiling tiles to get a clean, uniform look.