Floor-to-ceiling bookcases can utilize space efficiently.
Building a bookcase is a fairly basic woodworking project for a do-it-yourself homeowner, allowing you to build a spot to display and store your book collection. A floor-to-ceiling bookcase provides an abundant amount of storage space, allowing you to convert unused space above the bookcase into usable space. If your roof is slanted, you can construct the top edge of the bookcase to fit the slope of the roof.
Instructions
1. Measure the distance along the wall from the ceiling to the floor to determine the height of the bookcase's back edge. Measure out away from the wall onto the ceiling and measure the distance between that point and the floor to determine the height of the front edge of the bookcase. The depth of the bookcase determines the distance away from the wall where you take the second measurement from. In this example, we'll say that the bookcase is 12 inches deep, so you'll take the second measurement 12 inches away from the wall.
2. Measure and cut sheets of 3/4-inch plywood for the outer edges of the bookcase. The board for the top edge of the bookcase is the width of the bookcase and 12 inches deep (in our example only; your bookcase may vary). The bottom board -- which doubles as the bottom shelf -- is 1 1/2 inches shorter than the top board, as it will be nailed in between the sides of the bookcase. The board is 1 1/2 inches shorter than the top board because it's placed in between the two 3/4-inch side panels, while the top panel is placed on top of the side panels. Cut the side panels to match the longer of the two height measurements.
3. Mark the height of the shorter edge of the bookcase on one side of each side panel. Draw a line between that point and the top corner of the front side of the panels and cut the plywood along those lines. This creates the sloped edge on the top of the bookcase.
4. Place carpenter's glue on the sloped edge of one of the side panels and place the top board against it, aligning the edges of the boards. Nail the two boards together with three evenly spaced nails. Repeat this step on the other side. Wipe off any glue that seeps out of the joint with a damp rag.
5. Install the bottom panel for the bookcase an inch
6. Measure the outer dimensions of the back side of the bookcase and cut a piece of 1/8-inch tempered hardboard to fit. Place the bookcase face down and apply carpenter's glue along the edges of the plywood around the entire bookcase. Lay the sheet of tempered hardboard onto the bookcase, keeping it centered. Drive 5/8-inch brads around the edge of the bookcase every 12 inches to lock the hardboard into place.
7. Flip the bookcase over and mark the location of the shelving onto the front edge of the bookcase. You can install as many shelves as you like, spacing them to suit your needs.
8. Cut the shelves for the bookcase out of 3/4-inch plywood. Cut the shelves 1 1/2 inches shorter than the bookcase's width, and a half-inch shorter than the bookcase's depth -- in our example, the shelves will be 11 1/2 inches deep.
9. Run a bead of carpenter's glue to the back and side edges of the shelves and slide them into position in the bookcase. Hammer four nails, evenly spaced, through the sides of the bookcase and into the shelving.
10. Finish the surface of the bookcase to suit your needs. You can use stain or primer and paint. Allow the finish to dry.
11. Cut strips of pine casing to fit over the front edges of the bookcase to conceal the plywood. Use strips for the outer edges as well as the shelving. Paint or stain the casing to match the bookcase and nail the strips into position with finishing nails once they have dried.
12. Move the bookcase into position. Find the studs in the wall behind it. Drill pilot holes through the hardboard backing and into the studs. Screw the bookcase to the studs. Place a washer between the hardboard and the screw when doing this. Paint or stain the washer and screw to match the bookcase.
Tags: edge bookcase, side panels, away from, carpenter glue, shorter than