A veteran utility knife is useful when insulating a basement ceiling
In many cases, there is no need to insulate a basement ceiling because the temperature difference between the basement and rooms above it is relatively small. It is more important and cost effective to insulate the walls and the floor. By the same token, no is actually needed because very little moisture will migrate from one level to the other. However, you can purchase fiberglass insulation with a that also serves as a vapor barrier. An insulated ceiling will help keep in the warmth if the basement has its own heat source. It will also help to muffle sound between the two levels.
Instructions
1. Tape measure
Determine the square feet of your ceiling by multiplying the length times the width. Purchase the correct amount of insulation in a thickness to fill the space between the joists: three or six inches. Add a bundle or two to be sure you have enough on hand for the job.
2. Piece around the plumbing and wiring
Stuff the insulation (paper side up if backed) into the spaces between the joists. You will have to cut the batts in some places to piece the insulation around the wiring and plumbing obstructions. Leave a gap around junction boxes and lamp fixtures to prevent overheating . Friction will keep the insulation in place while you firmly secure it every two feet by bending the wire supports between the joists so they run underneath the batts,
3. Heavy-duty stapler with staples
Push the insulation for a vapor barrier between the joist with the paper side down, then secure the batts by stapling the protruding paper flanges to the bottom of the joists.
4. Cover any paper paper backing exposed with drywall or a drop ceiling to conform to your fire code and other safety regulations.
5. Insulate all exposed duct work and hot water pipes to finish the job. Wrap your water heater in an insulation jacket especially made for that purpose.
Tags: between joists, , basement ceiling, paper backing, paper side