Suspended ceilings work well in virtually any room of a house, but are especially common in a basement remodel. The first step in hanging a suspended ceiling is making the ceiling grid. This includes planning the layout and hanging the grid bars. Take your time to ensure the grid is level from front to back and from side to side. A lopsided grid gives the suspended ceiling a wavy appearance.
Instructions
1. Measure the room's length, using a tape measure. Divide this measurement by the length of the ceiling tile you will use (either 24 inches or 48 inches). More than likely you will be left with a few extra inches that will result in smaller grid openings and cut tile. Position these smaller sections along the room's perimeter.
2. Repeat Step 1, using the room's width instead of length. Draw a rough sketch of what the ceiling grid will look like on a piece of paper.
3. Measure 4 inches down the wall from the ceiling joists and make a mark. Set up a laser level in the middle of the room. Aim the laser at the mark so it shoots all the way around the room, 4 inches below the ceiling joists.
4. Run a stud finder along the laser line. Mark each stud you find. Hold a piece of perimeter molding against one wall. If necessary, cut the perimeter molding with tin snips to fit from wall to wall. Line up the perimeter molding's top edge with the laser line. Hammer 6d nails through the molding and into the wall studs you located.
5. Butt the perimeter moldings' edges together at inside corners, with one of the perimeter moldings tight in the corner. Keep both perimeter moldings' top edges lined up with the laser line. At the outside corners, miter the two perimeter moldings' ends to a 45-degree angle so they butt up together to form a 90-degree angle around the corner.
6. Run a chalk line perpendicular with the ceiling joists. Position the chalk line where the first grid bar will go according to the plans you determined in Step 1. Snap the chalk line against the ceiling joists. Measure along the ceiling, from the first chalk line to the next grid bar, and snap a second chalk line. Continue along the ceiling until you mark each grid bar location.
7. Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole through the first ceiling joist marked with the first chalk line. Screw a small eyebolt into the pilot hole. Move down three and make a second pilot hole for a second small eyebolt. Work your way along the first chalk line, placing an eyebolt in every third ceiling joist. Then, move to the second chalk line. Repeat until you have screwed eyebolts into every third ceiling joist for every chalk line.
8. Cut a 10-inch piece of hanger wire for each eyebolt. Insert 3 inches of a piece of hanger wire into the first eyebolt. Bend the wire down and twist it around itself three times. Repeat with each eyebolt.
9. Aim a laser level at the first row of hanger wires. Set the laser level so it hits the perimeter molding's bottom edge. Bend each wire into an L shape where the laser hits it. Repeat with each remaining row of hanger wires.
10. Position a runner perpendicular with the ceiling joists. Set each end on the perimeter molding. Line it up underneath the first snapped chalk line. Insert the hanger wires' bend ends through the holes in the runner's top edge. Bend the wires up and around themselves to help support the runner. Repeat this step with a runner under each chalk line. If necessary, snap two runners together to form a longer runner, or cut the runners with a tin snips to form shorter runners.
11. Snap cross tees between the runners. Space the cross tees 24 inches apart. If you have smaller grid openings along the room's perimeter, cut the cross tee to the opening's gap. Snap the uncut end into the runner and rest the cut end on the perimeter molding.
Tags: chalk line, ceiling joists, perimeter molding, perimeter moldings, ceiling joist, first chalk, first chalk line