Floating ceilings, also known as suspended or drop ceilings, offer home and business owners an alternative to completely redoing an existing ceiling. Building codes vary by state and city, but a general rule of thumb is that the ceiling must be at least 7.5 feet high. Allow four inches of space between the old ceiling and the new ceiling so you can tilt the ceiling panels into place.
Instructions
1. Select a floating ceiling. Although they utilize the same type of panels used in hospital and elementary school ceilings, they are available in a wide range of styles and patterns. Shop around to find the ceiling that works best with your overall room design.
2. Use a level and a pencil to measure four inches down from the existing ceiling joists. Measure at numerous points along the walls, as many are uneven. When you are confident that you have straight lines at the lowest point, use a chalk line to mark all four walls.
3. Nail the perimeter molding to the wall. Align the top of the molding with the chalk line and ensure that you nail only into the wall studs. Trim excess molding as needed with tin snips.
4. Measure the width of the room perpendicular to the ceiling joists and divide by the length of each panel. This determines the number of full panels the room will accommodate. Subtract the combined length of the panels from the room width and divide that number in half. The result is the perimeter gap to leave on each side when installing the main runners.
5. Repeat step 4, measuring parallel to the ceiling joists and using the width of each panel. This determines the perimeter gap to leave when installing the cross tees.
6. Measure perpendicular to the joists from the wall to your predetermined perimeter gap. Snap a chalk line. Continue measuring across the room, snapping a chalk line at precise four foot intervals.
7. Screw eyebolts into every third ceiling joist along each chalk line. Attach short lengths of 16-gauge wire to each eyebolt and twist to tighten.
8. Stretch a string between perimeter moldings every eight feet. This string acts as a level to keep the main runners straight.
9. Position the lead end of the main runner against the perimeter molding and lower it to the string.
10. Insert the first piece of wire into the closest hole in the runner. Bend the wire up and twist to secure it.
11. Repeat step 10 along the full length of the first runner. Use the string to guide the runner placement and the wires to secure it.
12. Repeat steps 9 through 11 for all main runners.
13. Install the cross tees every two feet along the main runners, beginning at the predetermined perimeter gap. Slip the tabs of the cross tees into the slots on the runners as shown in the manufacturer's instructions.
14. Slide ceiling panels into the center of the grid to help square and align the entire framework. The first few panels are generally the trickiest.
15. Use tin snips to cut lengths of main runners and cross tees the length of the perimeter gaps. Attach the factory ends to the existing runners and cross tees, and rest the cut ends on the perimeter molding.
16. Install the remaining ceiling panels.
17.Use a sharp utility knife to cut panels to fit the perimeter gaps. Lay the panel finished side up and slice cleanly through all layers. Make several passes if necessary.
Tags: chalk line, cross tees, main runners, ceiling joists, ceiling panels, perimeter molding, ceiling panels into