Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Wire Recessed Ceiling Lights

Adding recessed lights can change the entire look of a room.


A lighting design for a room can utilize several types of lighting and fixtures. Layering types of lighting can allow you to change the overall atmosphere and mood of the room. A large living area could include recessed lights covering the entire ceiling for use as general-purpose lighting. Once the recessed ceiling lights are installed, they need a power supply. The power from an existing light switch is often the answer. Once you have chosen the power supply location, you can begin wiring your recessed ceiling lights.


Instructions








1. Measure the distance between each recessed light fixture junction box in the attic. Cut lengths of 12-2 non-metallic electrical cable equal to the measurements plus 18 inches, to allow for wiring with a dual NM wire cutter/stripper.


2. Remove the junction box covers attached to the recessed light fixtures. Press the tab holding the cover to the junction box with your thumb, and pull the cover off.


3. Insert one end of a length of 12-2 NM through a knockout on the junction box, beginning at the recessed light fixture farthest from the light switch. Insert the other end of the NM through a knockout in the junction box on the next farthest light from the switch. Continue to add NM cable from one junction box to the next until you reach the light fixture closest to the switch.


4. Strip 4 to 6 inches from the exterior insulating sheath on the NM cable inside each recessed light fixture junction box. Remove 3/4-inch of insulation off each black and white wire from inside the NM cable at each box.


5. Leave the wiring for the recessed light fixture closest to the switch disconnected, and begin wiring the remaining recessed light fixtures.


6. Connect all black wires together inside each junction box by twisting a red wire connector onto their ends. Do the same with all the white wires inside each junction box.








7. Connect all bare copper ground wires inside each recessed lighting junction box to the green ground wire, using another red wire connector. The bare copper ground wires are part of the NM cable, while the green ground wire is a permanent part of the recessed lighting fixture. Replace the recessed lighting junction box covers on each box.


8. Turn off the circuit breaker in the main breaker panel supplying power to the existing light switch in the room.


9. Remove the screws holding the wall plate to the existing light switch. Touch one prong from a two-prong tester to one wire attached to a screw on the right side of the switch, then touch the other prong to metal. If the tester won't light, the power is properly disconnected. Repeat the test for the remaining wire attached under the remaining screw on the right side of the switch.


10. Remove the screws from the existing switch holding it to the switch box. Loosen the brass screws on the side of the switch, remove the wires from beneath them, and set the switch aside.


11. Untwist the wire connectors inside the existing switch box, holding the white wires together and the bare copper wires together. Pull the sets of wires apart, and remove the screws holding the switch box into the wall. Carefully pull the switch box from the wall to avoid damaging any existing wiring. If the box is nailed in, place a piece of wood or heavy-duty screwdriver inside the box. Hit the wood or screwdriver with a hammer to knock the box from the nails and pull it from the wall.


12. Position the template that came with the double-gang "old-work" box over the existing hole in the wall. Trace around the "old-work" template on the wall, and carefully cut along the trace lines with a drywall saw to expand the existing switch location.


13. Insert an end of NM cable into the recessed housing junction box closest to the switch. Repeat the wire stripping and wire connections as in Step 4 and Step 6. Pull the cable across the attic, down through the wall and out the switch location.


14. Insert the existing wiring and the new NM cable from the recessed lights through knockouts in the back of the double-gang "old-work" switch box. Push the box in the wall and turn the screws on the face of the "old-work" box, clamping it to the wall.


15. Strip the new NM cable from the recessed lights inside the double-gang switch box as in Step 4. Make two black pigtail wires by cutting two six-inch lengths of 12-gauge solid black THHN electrical wire, and stripping 3/4-inch of insulation from both ends of both 6-inch wires.


16. Twist a red wire connector onto the black power wire to connect it to both 6-inch pigtails. The power wire connects back to the circuit breaker in the main breaker panel.


17.Connect all white wires together inside the new double-gang switch box by twisting a red wire connector onto all three wires. Repeat the connection for all three bare copper wires.


18. Wrap the black pigtail wire around the bottom brass screw on the right side of the original switch. Wrap the black wire from the original fixture around the top brass screw on the right side of the switch, and tighten the screws. Repeat the connections for the remaining pigtail and the black wire from the recessed lights with a new, single-pole light switch.


19. Push all the wiring into the double-gang switch box. Attach the two light switches to the top and the bottom of the box with screws provided with the switches. Cover the switches and switch box with a double-switch wall plate.


20. Turn the circuit breaker on inside the main breaker panel to supply power to the original fixture and the recessed lights.

Tags: recessed light, recessed lights, light fixture, light switch, bare copper, inside each