Screws
A suspended ceiling can greatly reduce the amount of space to be heated and cooled. It can also conceal overhead objects, such as electrical, plumbing and HVAC duct work. USG ceilings are widely used in commercial and retail spaces, as well as in residential areas. The most common application is in home basements, where suspended ceilings can be far more practical than conventional ceilings.
Instructions
1. Level
Determine the height for the ceiling. Measure the distance from the floor and carefully mark the wall. Double-check this measurement before moving on. Hold a level on the mark and make a second mark approximately 3 feet further along the wall. Continue this process around the outer perimeter of the room until all exterior walls are marked.
2. Drill
Install the L bracket against the outer wall. Begin in one corner and drill into the wall approximately every 24 inches. Each bracket will have predrilled holes, so you will only need to drill into the wall. Keep the bottom of the bracket touching the top of each of your marks as you move around the room. Work one section of bracket at a time; these are normally 12 feet in length. Continue to work your way around the room cutting the L bracket to the proper length when necessary. Use the level to check each section as it is completed to be certain it is indeed level.
3. Bolts
Insert anchor bolts in the overhead ceiling joists. These can be screws, eye bolts or any other item to which you can securely attach a hanger wire. There should be a row of anchor points every 4 feet across the room. The points should be placed every 24 inches in order to properly support the main T brackets.
4. Pliers
Cut pieces of hanger wire long enough to attach to the anchor points and hang down lower than the brackets. Twist the wires securely in place with pliers. Clip one end of a main T bracket into the L bracket 4 feet from an exterior wall. Attach the hanger wires to the T bracket every 24 inches. Twist the wire tight until the bracket is level. Check the bracket frequently with the level as you proceed from one end of the room to the other. Repeat every 4 feet across the room.
5. Insert the cross T bracket between the main T brackets. These should snap into place to form a 2-foot by 4-foot grid. If you are using 2-foot square tiles, you will add additional cross brackets in each section for a 2-foot square grid.
6. Knife
Insert the ceiling tiles into the grid. The process is the same for both 2-foot square tiles and 2-foot by 4-foot tiles. Start in one corner and work your way across the room. You will need to angle the tile slightly to maneuver it completely through the grid. Bring it back horizontal and allow it to nest in the brackets. Some tiles will fit a little more snugly than others and will require you to work them into place. Most will drop into the brackets with little effort.
7. Modify the last row. Unless your room is divisible by two, your last row of tiles will be an odd size. Cut the cross T brackets to fit the final width. Use the box knife or other cutting instrument to cut the ceiling tiles to the proper size. Install the custom sized tiles to complete the project.
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