Drop ceilings are commonly used in basement finishing projects. The ability to remove and replace tiles easily is a plus in case you ever need to access the plumbing pipes or duct work running across the basement's ceiling. Another benefit of drop ceilings is the ease with which they are installed. Many homeowners are able to take on this project themselves. No matter the size of the tiles, installation remains the same. The only difference is in the setup of the grid.
Instructions
1. Measure the room's length and width. Plan on installing any cut tiles around the room's perimeter. For example, if the room measures 10 1/2 feet long you would end up with a row of 6-inch tiles on one end of the room. Instead, either center the grid so that on either side there is a row of 3-inch tiles or shift the tiles off center so there is a row of 9-inch tiles on either end.
2. Measure at least 3 inches down from the ceiling joist's bottom edge. Place a mark at this measurement to indicate the ceiling height. Set up a laser level to run at this height, across the walls.
3. Find the wall studs with a stud finder. Place a light pencil mark on the center of each stud along the laser line.
4. Line up the wall molding's bottom corner with the laser line. Secure the molding in place with either nails or screws, through the studs. Cut the wall molding to the proper length with tin snips. Butt wall molding together at inside corners. At outside corners, cut the moldings' ends to a 45 degree angle with tin snips so they fit tightly together.
5. Measure the location of the first main runner on one side of the room. Go to the opposite wall and repeat the measurement. Main runners run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Stretch a chalk line across the room and snap it onto the ceiling joists. Measure 12 inches from this chalk line and snap another. Continue moving down the room at 12-inch intervals.
6. Hammer wire fasteners into each chalk mark on each ceiling joist. Cut hanger wires with tin snips. Make the wires 12 inches longer than the space between the ceiling joists' bottom edges and the wall molding. For example, if you measured down 3 inches, the hanger wires will be 15 inches long.
7. Push one end of a hanger wire 3 inches through a wire fastener. Bend the wire down and twist it around itself three times. Repeat with the remaining wire fasteners and hanger wires.
8. Aim the laser level across the room at the same height as the wall molding. Bend each hanger wire with pliers where the laser hits it.
9. Install the main runners beneath the hanger wires. The perimeter runners must be cut if you do not have full the perimeter. Mark the required length on the tee, from the first oblong hole. Cut the center flange with tin snips, bend the tee down and cut through the runner's top.
10. Insert the bent hanger wire over the tee into one of the runner's holes. Twist the hanger wire to help support the runner. Install runners across the entire length of the room. If necessary, connect two runners by pushing their ends together. Runners are installed every 12 inches.
11. Push the cross tees into the oblong holes in the runners' sides. Insert a cross tee every 12 inches. Measure the square in an "X" pattern. If the two measurements come out the same, the runners and cross tees are installed correctly. If the measurements are different, the runners should be shifted slightly.
12. Install the ceiling tiles around the perimeter first. If these tiles are to be cut, measure from the wall to the tee's edge and add 1/4 inch. Mark this measurement onto the tile. Use a cross tee as a straightedge and cut across the tile's face with a utility knife.
13. Lift the tile up to the opening. Tilt it slightly so you can lift it above the grid. Level the tile and lower it into the opening. Continue until all openings are filled with a tile.
Tags: wall molding, hanger wire, hanger wires, , ceiling joists, tiles around, across room