Learning build a tray ceiling requires exact measurements and design research.
A tray ceiling adds aesthetic value to a room by creating an illusion of additional height. It is particularly effective in hallways, dining rooms and living rooms. Tray ceilings are often used as a canvas for murals, as in the Sistine Chapel.
Tray ceilings can be recessed or inverted. Recessed tray ceilings work from the outer edges of the room inward, with the highest part of the ceiling being closest to the center of the room. Inverted ceilings are used to call attention to details such as ornamental pot racks or range hoods or to conceal lighting. Inverted ceilings have the lowest point closest to the center of the room and the deepest recess will be found closest to the edges of the room.
Tray ceilings use crown molding to create a sense of depth and height. The use of a number of faces and finishes helps emphasize the levels created by the tray ceiling. Experiment with various trims and moldings to find a look that pleases the eye and has the most dramatic effect on friends and family. Building a tray ceiling requires sufficient planning and tools.
Instructions
Building a Tray Ceiling
1. To create a recessed tray ceiling, start by taking a look at some crown molding samples. You will want a variety of facings, widths and profiles. Light bounces off each profile a little differently, creating dramatic visual effects. You will need a few flatter profiles as well as a few with deep curves. Make sure the textures of the carved portions complement one another when assembled together.
2. Decide how much depth you want to create when analyzing build a tray ceiling. The deeper you want the recess to appear, the more molding you are going to need. Measure the length and width of the ceiling, multiply by two and divide by the length of the crown molding pieces you will use, then multiply by the number of profiles you will be using.
Example: Your room measures 12 feet by 16 feet. The perimeter of the room is 12 feet + 12 feet + 16 feet + 16 feet which equals 56 feet. You are using 8 foot lengths of crown molding for your project, so you will need 7 of each profile to go all the way around the room. You may want to buy one extra length of each profile in case you make any errors with the mitered joints or in case any of the trim splits when it is attached to the wall and ceiling.
3. Miter all joints and use a coping saw to trim away waste so that joints can be overlapped instead of being butted together. This prevents the joint from splitting as the wood expands and contracts with the seasons.
4. Paint your ceiling, using a color a shade or two lighter than the walls. You may want to experiment with different textures and templates on the ceiling to create additional interest prior to applying the crown molding. Do whatever pleases your eye and gives you the right feeling to fit the room's intended use. The curve of the transition line from the textured portion to the plain portion of the ceiling pictured here creates an illusion of additional depth.
5. Install your crown molding, creating a deep curve from wall to ceiling. The farther down the wall your curve begins, the deeper your tray ceiling will appear to be. The ceiling pictured here begins about three feet down the wall and uses inverted landings as bases to attach each level of crown molding. The sharp edges and fuss free profiles give an elegant but modern look to the room. The various levels had to be framed just as if each were a mini wall. Use two by fours to build the studs and attach drywall (sheetrock) to cover using a nail gun. Tape the joints and smooth with joint compound. Sand smooth with a belt sander. Be sure to use goggles and a mask to avoid inhaling sanding dust.
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