Thursday, December 13, 2012

Tips On Installing A Tbar Ceiling

A drop ceiling is a good way to hide imperfections.


A T-Bar ceiling, otherwise known as a drop ceiling, requires interlocking sections of metal bars in the shape of a "T" and foam or fiberglass acoustic panels. The ceiling rests below the original ceiling. It is a good way to hide imperfections in a ceiling during a renovation project to lower the height of a ceiling to make the room proportionate. When installing a T-bar ceiling, it always helps to have a few tips supplied with your instructions to make the task easier.


Instructions


1. Determine the height you want to install the ceiling. For example, if you have 10-foot ceilings you might choose to install the drop ceiling at 8-foot to avoid installing additional drywall during a renovation. As a tip, measure up from the floor with a tape measure and place marks on the wall every 3-to-5-feet. This will make the ceiling level with the floor and not with the original ceiling.


2. Measure the length of each wall in the room where you plan to install the T-Bar ceiling and then record the measurements. As a tip, measure the length of the wall at the chosen height for the T-bar ceiling since a wall is not always the same length at both ends. Measuring at the new ceiling height will give you the most precise measurements.


3. Cut pieces of metal drop ceiling wall trim. Drop ceiling wall trim is bent into 90 degree angles. You will screw it to the wall and the T-bar sections will rest on the trim. This helps to hold up the new ceiling. As a tip, use an electric miter saw. They offer precision cuts and take less time than trying to cut "free hand. Cut each end of the trim at a 45 degree angle. When you install the trim, it will look very professional as the corners will join perfectly.


4. Drill holes though one side of the trim every 2 feet with a hand drill and drill bit that measures slightly larger than the shank on your wood screws. Repeat this with each piece of trim. Do not attempt to drill the holes for the screws while the trim is against the wall. Screws easily slip on metal and the drill bit could slip off and gouge the wall.


5. Place the first piece of trim onto the wall and line the bottom of the trim up against the marks you placed on the wall. Place a level on the top of the trim and position it so it rests level on the wall. Secure the trim to the wall with wood screws and a screwdriver. Repeat this with each piece of trim. Attach a Phillip's screw tip to your hand drill to make the process faster.


6. Measure across the length of the room with your tape measure to determine the length needed for your T-bars.


7. Cut your T-bars to length with the miter saw. Place the flat portion of the T-bar onto the table of the miter saw. This will help you keep the cut straight.








8. Space the T-bars evenly across the trim. As a tip, most acoustic tiles are 2-feet wide. However, measure your tiles' width and then make sure you space each T-bar accordingly. Place the flat part of the T-bar onto the wall trim.


9. Measure the gaps between the T-bars and cut additional T-bars to serve as cross members. You need one cross member for each tile in each row. If your rows are 8 feet long and your tiles are two foot long, you need four tiles to complete a row. Since the first and last tile will rest on the wall trim, you need a cross member between tiles one and two, two and thee and three and four, for a total of three cross members.


10. Cut all of the cross members with the miter saw. Place the flat portion of the T-Bar onto the base of the miter saw when you cut.


11. Place all of the cross members in place between the main T-bars. Work to keep the cross members spaced at the appropriate distances apart. For example, if your titles are 2 feet long, you must space the first cross member 2 feet away from the wall trim and then place the second cross member 2 feet away from the first cross member. If you are off slightly, you can make adjustments when you install the tiles.


12. Thread eyebolts into the original ceiling directly above each T-bar, approximately ever 2 feet. Thread an eyebolt into the original ceiling above each end of each cross member. Slide the shaft of a screwdriver though the eye on the eyebolt and turn the screwdriver clockwise. This will make it easier to thread in the eyebolts.


13. Cut a piece of metal wire approximately 12 inches longer than the gap between the eyebolts and the holes drilled into the T-bars. Use wire cutters or tin snips to make cutting the wires easier.


14. Thread the wires though the suspension holes in the T-bars and then through the holes in the eyelet bolts. Pull the wires through each hole so the wire is tight between both holes and so the same amount of wire extends out of each hole. Wrap the portion of the wire extending through the hole around the wire between the holes to tighten the T-bars in place.


15. Slide each tile up though the T-bars and then place the tile onto the edges of the T-bars. They will rest in place without further attachment. Do not use glue or tape to secure the acoustic tiles to the T-bars as you may need to remove them for maintenance to the original ceiling at some point.

Tags: cross member, cross members, original ceiling, wall trim, drop ceiling, piece trim