Do-it-yourselfers can create attractive ceilings with a few tools and some advance planning.
USG Ceilings provides tiles in a broad range of colors, shapes, sizes, and profiles that comply with all relevant building codes. The manufacturer claims that many of these tiles are class-A fire-rated, stain resistant, thermo-efficient and mildew- and mold-resistant.They are used in a system that includes an L-shaped perimeter bracket to support the suspended ceiling, and a grid of main runners intersecting with cross tees.
Instructions
1. Determine the dimensions of your room and design a grid layout for your project. For example if you are going to use 12 inch by12 inch tile in a 16 foot by 16 foot room, than you would need 256 individual tiles to fully cover the ceiling. It is useful to draw out the dimension of the room on grid paper and to individually draw each tile to the model scale in the place you would like to position tiles. Then you can simply count out how many tiles will fit, including any partial tiles in your count.
2. Determine if you are going to have partial tiles by taking the area of the room you just calculated and dividing it by the panel length, then do the same for the width.
3. Determine the height you want your ceiling to sit at, including sufficient head clearance. If you want to cover an incomplete ceiling make sure the height of the ceiling will be adequate to cover exposed wire, air ducts, ceiling beams, and any other feature you want hidden.
4. Research the building codes for your area for the height requirements of your ceiling. Most codes require a minimum of 7-1/2 ft. ceiling height. You will need about four inches of space between the old and new ceilings to tilt the panels and drop them place, and an additional two inches if you intend to install full-panel fluorescent ceiling lights.
5. Use a ruler to measure from the bottom of the ceiling joists to the location you want your ceiling to start, marking the location on your wall with a pencil. Trace a reference line around the perimeter of the walls surrounding the room using your level and the first mark as a reference. Measure down from the joists at several locations around the room to ensure the correct height is marked.
6. Align the L-shaped molding perimeter so that the top of the base of the L aligns with the perimeter line, and nail them in place to the studs in the wall using 6d nails. To cover a stretch of wall that is longer than one of your molds, just push the ends of two pieces of molding together. For corners either install the first length of molding tight against the corner and overlap the second molding inside the L shape of the first, or use your tin snips to cut both moldings at a 45-degree angle and secure them in place with 6d nails.
7. Measure out from the starting wall the calculated gap distance and draw a reference line on all the joists spanning from one wall to the opposite wall. Measure the length of a tile and mark the next reference line that distance over from your first. Continue this pattern across the room. If the length of your tile is four feet, then you would make a reference line every four feet.
8. Screw small eye-bolts into every third joist along the reference lines and fasten lengths of 16-gauge wire to each eye-bolt. Twist the wire at least three times around itself at the top. Run some string across the room between perimeter moldings and pull it tight so there is no slack. Do this every eight inches, aligning the string with the bottom of the molding.
9. Lay one end of the main runners on the perimeter molding, making it level with the first string. Feed the nearest hanging wire through the nearest hole in the runner and bend the wire up and twist it securely to the other end of the wire. Use the string to position the height of the runner and continue attaching the hanging wire through the holes in the runner.
10. Hang up all the runners using this method. If the runner is too short to run the full length of the room, join two runners end to end, using the slots and tabs built into the ends of each. Then place an additional wire support near each of these joints.
11. Install the , hooking each end to fit into the slots in the runners. If the width of your tile is two feet, space each cross tee two feet apart. Install your lighting to fit into the grid system.
12. Install the first several ceiling tile in the center of the hanging grid to help align the assembly. Tilt the tile, pushing it through and above the grid without damaging the tile. Gently drop the panel into place. Make any adjustments as necessary, using sandpaper to sand areas that are slightly tight and a utility knife to cut tiles that need larger adjustments.
13. Cut the tiles so that they fit into the grid, fit the perimeter openings, and fit around any obstruction such as lighting, sprinklers, air ventsm or any other item extruding beyond the ceiling line. Always cut the tile with the finished side of the panel facing up
Tags: reference line, your ceiling, them place, across room, building codes, cross tees, four feet