Bromeliad plants, which exhibit an almost surreal beauty, do well as houseplants
Most tropical bromeliads originated in the South American rain forests; the majority of them are ephiphytic, or air plants, capable of growing on trees and deriving moisture and nutrients from the air through their leaves. With over 1,500 species, bromeliads--which are related to pineapples--exhibit a wide variety of sizes, shapes and colors. Leaves can be green, gray, maroon, spotted or striped, and flowers--which occur only once in the plant's lifetime--are often brilliantly colored. These fascinating plants adapt well to life as houseplants, and even if technically epiphytic they can be successfully grown in pots.
Instructions
1. Provide bright, indirect light for your tropical bromeliads. According to the Florida Council of Bromeliad Societies website, bromeliads can tolerate a wide range of light intensities, but will look their best when lighting is optimal. If the plant turns an unusually pale shade of green, there may be too much light, while a darker green than normal could indicate too little light. If orchids are already growing well in your house, place your bromeliad near them.
2. Pot your bromeliad in porous, light, very well-drained potting medium made by mixing one part peat, one part bark and one part perlite. Due to the root system of your tropical bromeliad, a small pot--no larger than 4 to 7 inches in diameter--is best.
3. Provide proper humidity by spraying your plant daily with a mister; this plant will also appreciate a humidifier. You can also place your potted bromeliad on a 3-inch bed of wet gravel for additional moisture, but never let it stand in water; this could cause root rot.
4. Provide a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees during the day, and around 65 degrees at night.
5. Provide good air circulation for your bromeliad by opening a window--in warm weather--or running a ceiling fan.
6. Water your bromeliad only when soil feels dry. If your bromelidad has a natural water reservoir or "cup" in the middle, formed by the rosette, it is not necessary to keep this filled with water. According to the Bromeliad website, this could encourage bacterial and fungal problems.
7. Fertilize your bromeliad with a general purpose liquid houseplant fertilizer, applied to the potting mix, at 1/3 of the recommended dosage every other month. During the winter, you don't need to fertilize your bromeliad. If your bromeliad displays browning, curling leaves, you may be over-fertilizing it--reduce amount given.
8. Remove "pups," or budding bromeliads, from the parent plants after allowing them to feed off the deteriorating tissues of the original plant for at least a week. Although bromeliad plants die after producing pups, the new plants can be transplanted into separate pots with little difficulty. The result--more colorful and intriguing bromeliad plants to grace your home.
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