Cabot solid acrylic deck stain peeling
I have a set of three fairly intricate cedar trellises and an arbor at my house which, after stripping and cleaning, I painted with Cabot solid color acrylic stain last spring. Although I don’t particularly like solid stain, I went that route in the hope that it would last because these structures are difficult to work with because of their detail and because they have plants starting to grow on them. Regrettably after less than a year the stain is already peeling in places. I expect part of the problem is that I didn’t know enough to prime the wood before staining. My question is what is the best approach to dealing with the situation now other than trying to strip everything again, which given that it’s solid stain I expect would take more time than I have and also be very hard on the structures and now small but still growing plantings. For example, is it still worth applying a primer (Cabot’s acrylic?) after cleaning and sanding the peeling spots or should I just paint over with more of the same solid stain and hope for the best? Any suggestions for address and what products to use would be greatly appreciated. Also I realize that this is not a question about a deck per se, but this seemed like the most appropriate forum given that it involved deck stain. Thanks! Welcome to the forums! About the only time a primer is needed under a latex solid stain is when tannin bleed is expected to be an issue.... and then you would use an oil base primer. Vegetation that grows on or near wood is always detrimental to a paint/stain job. An oil primer might helps some but I'm not sure it's worth the effort. I'd try adding some of Flood's Emulsa Bond to the stain. It will help it to bond and penetrate into the wood better. In many cases, if a solid color latex stain peels it is sometimes the result of at least 3 factors. 1). the weather conditions- painting in the hot sun can cause the stain to skim over too quickly and it doesn't have a chance to bond well to the wood. Working in the shade if possible, or at least in the best possible conditions weatherwise will help. 2). surface prep- if the surface is not clean (i.e. dusty or chalky) the stain also cannot bond well to the wood. Solid color stain will also adhere best to a slightly roughened surface, so if your wood surface seems very smooth, as cedar often is, a light sanding with 100-120 grit sandpaper may help with bonding. Moisture can also cause the surface to let go of the coating, so if these areas are near end grain, for example, it could be that the wood is absorbing moisture from unprotected areas that then is affecting surrounding areas as the moisture tries to escape. 3). application- applying too heavy of a coat can also result in building up too thick of a layer of stain. Ordinarily solid color stain should not peel so perhaps if the stain was treated like paint (with the idea of building up a thick layer of protection) this will often backfire and result in heavy layers of stain peeling off in chunks. I'm not a full time painter, but have used solid color stains a lot and that's been my experience. I know that a few members have really appreciated marksr's time tested advice regarding the Flood's Emulsa Bond, so you should surely look consider that too. Cabot recommends using their Problem Solver Primer before applying their Solid Stains.
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